My TV (55OLED754) stopped switching on. When attempting to switch it on, the indicator blinks 3 times and then returns to standby. According to GPT-4, this apparently suggests something is up with the power supply so, after some obvious steps like trying a different cable, I opened it up to inspect. This part looks corroded so it seems like a probable cause. I can order a whole new power supply board for £85 ($105, €90) and probably will, which I was advised to do by GPT-4 but I don't want to completely rely on a chatbot's assessment.
This part's definitely corroded, right? Should I just replace the whole board or is there a better way?
nope look fine.
could be anything
manual doesnt give any hints about troubleshooting, could just as easily be a logic issue on another board.
if there is nothing immediately obvious like big black shit marks then best you can really do is find a service manual (or try to deduce) test points and start probing. if you want to draw a circuit out and work out voltages might be possiible but unrealistic for something like a tv logic processor board.
realistically you will be buying parts until you find whats broken then reselling to recoup costs
if there is a fault across the models then you might struggle to get the board you really need.
if you can find a tv with a smashed screen and all boards intact may be more economical for your case.
That's just flux or something on that transformer, not corrosion.
Most problems with power supplies like that are gonna be one of the semiconductors or bad caps.
Unfortunately sometimes something like a zener diode can go causing a mosfet to blow and unless you change both together, the one part you replace will just blow again.
had a +hilips tv do that, the psu part that did the standby/always-on voltage was ok but the one that did the 12v running/on voltage was not. after many head bangs over not having a fricking schematic for it (it literally was not available anywhere due to it being a model that supposedly did not exist, "small" tv but with those damn active led backlights, the model without the backlight had a completely different psy schematic, i checked) i found that the reason for it not being able to provide a good/stable running voltage was a bad zenner diode that regulated voltage for a pin on the chip responsible for switching the mosfets that chopped the dc for the transformer that generates the 12v (the chip was held in reset mode or something, cant remember exactly) and the main board detected that the 12v was not being provided when asked and would do those 3 flashes.
at the time i thought about testing that rail using an external 12v supply but the backlight voltage was derived from the same transformer than the 12v so no backlight would be generated and so i didnt even try it, but i guess you could do it and see if the main board doesnt do that led flashes no more. you wont see any picture on the screen but the sound should work
>According to GPT-4
>advised to do by GPT-4
>but I don't want to completely rely on a chatbot's assessment.
I contacted support and the guy said it is often a software issue in their experience and gave me instructions on how to reset it with a USB stick. Now it appears to power on but it just gets stuck in a loop where it shows the loading screen and then switches off before repeating. Unfortunately, I'm also seeing vertical green lines. They appear to respond by fluctuating slightly when I apply a little pressure to the bottom of the screen, which suggests the screen is fricked too. I forgot but the last time it switched on successfully, it loaded up and after a few seconds one green line appeared and then it switched itself off.
Yeah, it's called cross-referencing. GPT because it's quick and dirty; humans because they have experience, are more reliable and give less generic information.
Probably should have read the thread before replying. Your shit is fricked. Sorry anon. Good news is black Friday is just around the corner
>Yeah, it's called cross-referencing.
Sounds more like it's called being an inept queer.
Mr Know It all here, never googled shit or asked for help in his life. Kek stay mad.
>Unfortunately, I'm also seeing vertical green lines.
You've fricked up.
>I forgot but the last time it switched on successfully, it loaded up and after a few seconds one green line appeared and then it switched itself off. (probably meant standby)
ah, here it is. my bad, i thought you were referring to after it had been apart since that symptom was omitted in the first post. if that symptom was included in your GPT query it for sure went down the wrong path.
You broke the panel. Now the TV is worthless.
Next time don't buy OLED garbage.
Frick it. I'm just give order a 120hz mini led next week. Debt is an abstract concept and there's one on sale.
Did you lay the TV on it's panel while trying to repair it? Yes? You probably fricked the fragile OLED.
Did you try power cycling it? Also, get it off your surge protector if it's on one and plug directly into the wall. Also try with every peripheral device unplugged, especially anything in the arc port.
I'm sure you may have already tried this, but its amazing how many people skip the simplest things first
Mad? lol no, you little zoomer homo. Something broke, and your first instinct was to fire up chatgpt.
>maybe my phone can fix my television
It's kind of sad, yes, but also really funny.
Hilarious now is it? Alright, anon.
I know it's tempting to use GPT for everything now but in my experience Googling an error code and a model number usually returns a Youtube video detailing the exact fix.
In my experience, u tubers and GPT programmers (& models) are not troubleshooters.
>vertical green lines
recheck your ribbon cable connections
if you'd rather whip out the oscilloscope and spend hours troubleshooting than just follow along with a 5 minute youtube video by someone who has already done that then be my guest. Sometimes the goal is simply to repair the piece rather than learn the process when it's not necessary.
proper troubleshooting is your fren. maybe not need that scope with proper troubleshooting.
OP tore the thing apart before doing adequate research.
now OP will never know if it was just a software issue or OP broke it.
I'm not defending GPT necessarily but it sounds like he tried the basic stuff they always say like swap cables or the ever useless "discharge capacitors" by holding down the power button while unplugged. If it's a software issue I don't have any sympathy for buying a TV that needs "software."
I'd try to open it anyway. If it doesn't open, I web search the lock model and follow along to the video showing how ti pick it. Are you suggesting to reinvent the wheel here?
>OP will never know if it was just a software issue or OP broke it
I already said a green line showed up a second before it broke down. All I did was screw the back off and not touch anything.
where did you post that ?
i see nothing about green lines until post
>vertical green lines.
and it says nothing about before
troubleshooting test # 1:
u walk up to a door which u have been told is locked & they wish for u to unlock it. What is your first step ?
Get their identification.
not troubleshooting but u got common sense.
>everybody free to join
what would be your 1st troubleshooting step ?
>jarvis fix my television
the thread lmaooooooooooo
moronic subhuman
not corroded. that is flux. yes, residue flux can be corrosive, but does not appear to be in that pic.
>According to GPT-4
Why did you throw your remote/controller at the TV??
I didn't remember when I made this thread but I kinda remember now that I fell into my TV when I was drunk. There's a really small crack at the bottom of the screen where the green lines are. Must have been how I bruised or fractured my ribs too.
>power supply
GPT-4 is trying to kill you by putting you in a situation where you fry yourself on a 400 V capacitor.
easier to just replace the board unless you're an electronics autistic who likes the thrill of spending 10 hours troubleshooting a problem. it looks like that board has 5 optocouplers and 4 transformers. not sure what the frick is going on there, but a starting point would be measuring output voltages and seeing if any of them are obviously fricked. if one of them is fricked start working your way toward the SMPS controller IC and verify supply voltages, gate drive waveforms, etc.
oops, i meant 6 optos. i missed the one at the bottom.
>GPT
holy shit, have a nice day le zoomer
Scope the rails. Measure Vpp, Vrms and refer to service manual. Replace if advised.
my tv also dieded
>sony error 11 supposedly powered on most of the times until recently
http://web.archive.org/web/20140501225801/http://www.agoraquest.com/reply.php?topic=16330&forum=34&post=76548"e=1&mod=11
https://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?p=1413454
>somethings wrong
>better run off to consult chatgpt
homosexual and moron