>I need to miter cut a few of these
>I tried using a chisel, unless it was a shit chisel it did not break cleanly or break in the correct location.
>I tried using a reciprocating saw with a masonry blade, this also did not work
What else can I try? I am at wits end, I spend a lot of money on this hardscaping and it looks terrible since I cannot get the edges correct.
Watch your fingers.
This is the only way? I guess I could rent one at the home goods store. Feels a bit overkill.
This looks cool.
Guess I will need to rent on of those things, seems a bit ridiculous since I only have to miter 4 of them or so, but I guess if I am unable to do it with a reciprocating saw, I suppose a circular, oscillating nor angle grinder would work as well.
It's a big wet saw. Just run your hose on low and use a grinder with masonary wheel.
>rent one
Or chalk what you want and visit pros. Exchange the cuts for whisky and make friends at the same time?
I bought a 7” Skil wet tile saw for like $90 for doing bathroom work and it came in handy for brick work. The bricks were a little heavy for the cheap surface but it worked for that one odd job.
You could stick a 7” diamond blade on a cicular saw too, or an angle grinder with a 4.5”-5” diamond blade
Do you think the angle grinder or circular saw would work any better then the reciprocating saw with a masonry bit. I had the trigger all the way down, plus I was pushing down with as much for as I could and this thing barley made a nick in the edger, It would've taken me hours just to cut through the 5" edger.
https://www.homedepot.ca/product/diablo-steel-demon-9-inch-12-tpi-carbide-tipped-reciprocating-blade-for-cutting-conduit/1001672090
How bout a carbide tipped blade?
Yes. You can see the pavers I was chopping in the corner of this pic. The 7” wet tile saw would do a corner or like 50% straight thru so I had to cut both sides, but that wet tile saw has a much weaker motor than a 7-1/4” circ saw. And then the angle grinder was for shaping the corners a little more, but it went through easily. I can’t remember what the deepest cut was I did with the angle grinder.
There’s like smooth diamond blades, the “turbo blades” that are similar to picrel, and then segmented diamond blades. I think segmented is for fast cuts but not super smooth, the smooth blades are for slower clean cuts, and turbo blades are in the middle of those. Make sure it’s rated for dry cutting.
Surely scoring them and just smashing them in half would be cheaper than renting a saw. Even if you frick up like 20 of them just to get four right
masonry disc in an angle grinder
score around the outside, knock the end off, grind the break flat if you need to
ez pz, 20 bucks at harbor freight
I wanted to try the reciprocating saw first since I already had one and buying a blade is cheaper then buying a new tool plus blade. I guess it makes more sense to buy the angle grinder compared to trying to rent one of those tile cutters though.
Do you own a regular 7-1/4” circular saw?
Harbor Freight has super cheap angle grinders, but circ saw will let you set the miter and should go through no problem with a 7” diamond blade.
Pic related is what I was using for those bricks, they were pretty affordable. DeWalt has more expensive diamond blades but these worked fine.
I might have to put the edger in a vice or something if I was to use a circular saw. I did think about that also. since the circular saw is bigger then the paver I wasn't sure how that would work out.
Maybe, or get a couple clamps and stick it to whatever. I don’t think diamond blades are prone to grabbing the work piece and throwing it the same way as wood saws because they’re basically grinding the whole time. There’s no big teeth like a framing blade to grab a chunk of brick and launch it,
It felt sketchy and I never even put a battery in the thing. The blade was like 1/3” off the trigger.
>1/3"
This is your brain on namehomosexualry.
If it's anything like glass you need to etch a line where you want it to break. Give it a few gentle taps with a hammer. Then chisel
Masonry blade in a circular saw
Chisels/hammers leave a really shitty edge because these aren't bricks or stones, they're shitty composite pieces of shit, you.need to cut it all the way through.
Masonry disc in an angle grinder will only do like 4 cuts.
angle grinder is good enough
just cut as deep as you can go
cut the back
then break it if its too thick
don't forget to take the guard off on your grinder so you can see what ur doing
This. How are you supposed to fit a 10” blade on your angle grinder with the guard? They wouldn’t put a 5/8” arbor on everything if they weren’t meant to be used together.
KEEEEEEEEEEEEEK, that looks sketch as frick.
Linus was already insufferable. I can't believe they're giving that fat frick almost equal air time
>can't believe
Did you step out of a time machine?
This is israelite world now.
All demoralization.
All the time.
I use this for a lot compound cuts on rafters. Real carpenters know that the miter saw will cap out at obtuse deep angles.
I am leaning a little bit towards angle grinder since I feel like it would be easier to have control over the tool compared to a circular saw. My only worry is it won't cut through. I got some carbide blade for the reciprocating saw and it cut it but it probably didn't even go down 3cm and even that took a couple minutes going on full blast.
Grinder and diamond blade. Score all 4 sides where you want it to break. Hit with hammer.
I used a ryobi tile saw, then a chisel because it was only a 3" blade and didnt cut the whole way through. But it was straight enough. And much cheaper than some professional tool you'll only use once.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-ONE-HP-18V-Brushless-Cordless-Compact-Cut-Off-Tool-Kit-with-1-5-Ah-Battery-and-18V-Charger-PSBCS02K/314003910
angle grinder and disk for ceramics
are you moronic?