everyone has one. I had gotten this because it was a bit under $300 at the time. Disappointing but i just need to get a table saw and it wont matter too much
Anon... what the hell are you talking about?
A compound cut is merely cutting a bevel and a miter at the same time, which that saw is literally the double bevel version.
I know but it feels bad having dropped 380 on a non slider. I'm building a small shop in my garage and I can't afford to lose wall space. I know about that meme Bosch one but it's like 700 bucks and it'll probably wear out fast
Either way it’s going to take up space. I put mine at 45+ degrees when I’m not using it gain ~6” of space when I push the stand up against the wall.
I wonder about that Bosch. Looks nice but how do the joints hold up after some yeas of use.
https://i.imgur.com/3zXcMAP.jpg
If you're going to get a sliding miter saw, Makita, Metabo and Festool for richgays have the slide bars extend to the front.
Most sliding saws still have the bars slide backwards, which takes an extra foot of space than necessary to accomodate the bars. It's the stupidest fricking solved problem but they keep making miter saws that extend out the back for no reason.
Strange. It can’t be a patent thing if multiple brands have those sliding rails up front.
You ever see any of the 7-1/4” sliding miter saws? Dude I know has a little Kobalt for mobile jobs that he got a good sale on. After seeing that in action, I think if I were on a tight budget and it was non-sliding 10” or sliding 7-1/4”, I would take the sliding saw in most situations.
You ever see any of the 7-1/4” sliding miter saws? Dude I know has a little Kobalt for mobile jobs that he got a good sale on. After seeing that in action, I think if I were on a tight budget and it was non-sliding 10” or sliding 7-1/4”, I would take the sliding saw in most situations.
>buying a miter saw that cant cut a 4x4, cant cut a 2x4 on its side, all while having the poor accuracy of a sliding track
>cant cut a 2x4 on its side
Just bevel the saw the other direction, that’s what is sweet with a dual bevel sliding 7-1/4”
>can’t cut a 4x4
Anon is trying to spend <$200, he can flip the 4x4 over or use a damn sawzall. At that money, he’s going to be stuck with a cheap non sliding 10” or something, and that will be less useful I bet.
I have a harbor freight 12" (bauer?) that's treating me fine, but it was around 300 and I dont think it came with a blade.
Honestly just save up. I wish I had held out for either the Mikita/Bosch, because they require way less bench space. The Bauer is fricking massive and its a b***h to lift.
This is why I went with 10” when the 12” was on sale and actually slightly cheaper. But then I got the stand like 2 weeks later so I don’t care about bench space and weight, although the sliding mechanism means it needs lots of space in the back.
Seems overly complicated for no reason when you could just use a slide mechanism like everyone else does.
>German Engineering
Although it looks like it solves the issue of needing an extra 18” behind.
>Anon is trying to spend <$200, he can flip the 4x4 over or use a damn sawzall.
Or you know, he can buy the 12" saw that cuts a 2x8 in the vertical position, a 2x6 in the horizontal position, 3 vertical 2x4s at once, and you can even cut a 4x4.
You know, normal things that people actually use a miter saw for.
Only invalids and morons would buy a 7-1/4" saw which maxes out at 2x8 without the ability of actually doing a 4x4.
You gain literally nothing
Ahhh I see you’re a dockbuilder. I should’ve assumed that. I was here thinking OP wanted a saw for baseboards and such.
1 year ago
Anonymous
>bepis sitting here not realizing that he is of lower standing than the dock repair anon ever was.
>I was here thinking OP wanted a saw for baseboards and such.
So you are going to buy a saw that does baseboards identically, while having less utility later when other work comes around?
Buy one thing, tell someone to buy another, when the third option is objectively the correct answer.
Yep, thats your typical Bepis post right there.
1 year ago
Kevin Van Dam
>gain 1” of depth and lose 6” of width
Dockbuilders… smdh
Go full boomer and tell him to find a pre-war US made cast iron radial arm saw at an estate sale for $13.50
1 year ago
Anonymous
those are actually great saws if you have 40 ft of wall space for a proper work table for it. my big dewalt can cut 20 studs to length in one pass
1 year ago
Anonymous
Hey OP, be wary from whom you take counsel.
You never know when someone like
comes in and blatantly exposes his LARP showing a complete lack of understanding of the product he is shilling.
1 year ago
Anonymous
For anyone else who is wondering and doesnt want to look it up.
The aforementioned Kobalt 7-1/4" sliding miter saw has a crosscut capacity of 2x8"
So you can cut 8" baseboards with it.
It has a 90deg cut depth of 2", so you arent cutting baseboards vertically with it.
The aforementioned Dewalt 12" miter saw has a crosscut capacity of 2x8"
So you can cut 8" baseboards with it
It has a vertical cut capacity of 6-1/2" so you can cut 6.5" base molding with it
Its always good to have hard specs on things when shopping around.
>listening to PrepHole for advice
Pre-war radial arm saw
[...]
That’s actually not horrible besides single bevel, tbqhwy didn’t realize Lowe’s had 12” DeWalt chop saws for $200. My wife hasn’t taken me to look for new bathroom fixtures recently,
Also your link for the Kobalt doesn’t work. So I win because internet rules. Also you’re the type of person who posts reaction pics, so you lost at life even though you beat the Harbor Freight bear at finding a sale.
At least Opie could afford a fine tooth blade for this one and carry it up and down the stairs in his apartment.
I wonder if people are parting out cheap stuff from the holidays, like I think HD had the good DeWalt sliding guy plus a stand for something like $400 over the holidays. If you didn’t want a stand, I bet you could return the stand for like $120-$150.
1 year ago
Kevin Van Dam
>listening to PrepHole for advice
Pre-war radial arm saw
https://i.imgur.com/xwQaFeg.jpg
For anyone else who is wondering and doesnt want to look it up.
The aforementioned Kobalt 7-1/4" sliding miter saw has a crosscut capacity of 2x8"
So you can cut 8" baseboards with it.
It has a 90deg cut depth of 2", so you arent cutting baseboards vertically with it.
The aforementioned Dewalt 12" miter saw has a crosscut capacity of 2x8"
So you can cut 8" baseboards with it
It has a vertical cut capacity of 6-1/2" so you can cut 6.5" base molding with it
Its always good to have hard specs on things when shopping around.
That’s actually not horrible besides single bevel, tbqhwy didn’t realize Lowe’s had 12” DeWalt chop saws for $200. My wife hasn’t taken me to look for new bathroom fixtures recently,
Also your link for the Kobalt doesn’t work. So I win because internet rules. Also you’re the type of person who posts reaction pics, so you lost at life even though you beat the Harbor Freight bear at finding a sale.
1 year ago
Anonymous
>so you lost at life even though you beat the Harbor Freight bear at finding a sale.
The 12" single bevel Dewalt has been $200 for the last 5+ years, all the way back when it was a different model number. Its always "on sale"
1 year ago
Anonymous
>bepis sitting here not realizing that he is of lower standing than the dock repair anon ever was.
>I was here thinking OP wanted a saw for baseboards and such.
So you are going to buy a saw that does baseboards identically, while having less utility later when other work comes around?
Buy one thing, tell someone to buy another, when the third option is objectively the correct answer.
Yep, thats your typical Bepis post right there.
More like: >Bepis bringing up dock building/repair >Not invoking the name Jeff or mentioning boots on the ground
He never cared about the board before, why should he start acting like he's part of it now?
[...] >buying a miter saw that cant cut a 4x4, cant cut a 2x4 on its side, all while having the poor accuracy of a sliding track
I used to own that lil kobalt, was great till it got rained on and the slide was ruined. Then I replaced it with an 8 1/4 Hitachi sliderand now went with Makita cordless 10 slider. I cut too much crown to keep those 7 and 8 inch saws as my everyday saw. But they're great, lightweight, and the accuracy isn't bad if doing paint grade stuff. I know non sliders (especially DeWalt) are really accurate but cutting hardwood like maple or oak, it's always smoking and burning the cuts if it's 6 inches or bigger, the slider helps with that. If not doing a lot of crown(you can still lay it flat, just a little more time) totally get that cheap Lowe's 7 1/4. Be gentle with the detents locking, it's plastic and will break if you slam it into the 45 detents.
I got this as a gift probably 12 or so years ago and it’s done tons of trim, fence boards, etc. basic shit but works fine.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-14-Amp-Corded-10-in-Compound-Miter-Saw-with-LED-Cutline-Indicator-TS1346/306939211
I got a 10" sliding ryobi and stand for $200 on offerup I've used it on 3 jobs with 4" mdf base and bought a non-ferrous blade to cut 120lf of aluminum base
So its advice for poorhomosexuals who cant afford a proper saw, and quite frankly wouldnt be able to afford remodeling anyways?
Thanks anon, can you give me some tips on how to out of the dumpster too?
Damn, he probably doesnt even live in a house if he only has $200 to his name right?
It definitely wasnt just a pricepoint to keep you from posting $750 saws, but his whole net worth!
> grouphome for morons?
Are these free?
I wont even have to eat out of the dumpster, but will be fed out of the soupkitchen?
Damn anon, on the pulse of living desolate and poor!
>$200
just go with this
once you get your money up do like this anon
You ever see any of the 7-1/4” sliding miter saws? Dude I know has a little Kobalt for mobile jobs that he got a good sale on. After seeing that in action, I think if I were on a tight budget and it was non-sliding 10” or sliding 7-1/4”, I would take the sliding saw in most situations.
says and try a 7 1/4 since you're just doing baseboard. I do lots of custom millwork and the M18 7 1/4 " is worth every penny. weighs less than 30 lbs you can carry it one hand np and it was cutting perfect mitres right out of the box. only problem is everyone wants to use/abuse the thing cuz it's fricking sick.
don't know about the other brands but I have the Milwaukee obv, but if you can get a any brand battery powered, light weight one that's good, do it. the mil has a nice shadow line, so you're not walking in cuts, wasting mats. you don't need a 10" and if you do get a 12" that stays in one place on the site.
>overly complicated for no reason
I mean, it's three extra hinges in each 90 degree plane, on a device that already has several other hinges and pivots.
The hinges seem less likely to be affected by dust and debris versus a track that the whole saw has to slide on. The front-to-back motion is so smooth.
There's a distinct advantage in space - since there's no slide mechanism protruding from the back, it can be placed on a bench against a wall.
But I'll be honest I bought it because I just thought it looks cool.
I have a harbor freight 12" (bauer?) that's treating me fine, but it was around 300 and I dont think it came with a blade.
Honestly just save up. I wish I had held out for either the Mikita/Bosch, because they require way less bench space. The Bauer is fricking massive and its a b***h to lift.
get a used one and resell it once you're done with your baseboard project. you'll get a good tool, a good price, won't have limited time like if you rented it, and you can make most of your money back and won't have the saw sitting in the back of your shed for 10 years.
For baseboards you wants a 12 inch saw.
A 10 inch won't cut through 4 inch baseboards without leaving a small piece of wood at the bottom if you stand it up against the fence.
Also a lot, if not most, standard interior mouldings aren't flat on the back so you can't use the fence to hold them vertically if they are too tall. One solution is putting the finished side against the fence, but then you need to transfer your length mark from the finished side to the back accounting for the length of the bevel, or vice-versa, which can result in inaccuracy. Easier to just lay it flat on the deck, tilt the saw, and cut the original mark.
I'd highly recommend getting an evolution mitre saw if they do them in burgerland, I swear blind by mine and got it with a fold up extendable bench for I think 160 quid in a deal.
Bosch and DeWalt purists will insist on splurging a bit more, but personally unless you're a carpenter using it every walking minute of the day then evolution will suffice.
I've had mine for 7 years and used it thoroughly on projects ranging from cutting m16 thread, scaffold boards, 4 inch drain pipe to 4 inch channel iron RSJ support beams.
Needless to say it's been abused and treated like a cheap corner gal, the laser no longer works, beside the locking angle chuck yet it still functions in its job to cut every time without fail.
Word of advice though would be to check out chink sellers on eBay for blades, as they knock em out cheap for quarter of the price.
And never ever let tard apprentices cut Stainless with it at all, let alone bundles of threaded rod without them first being taped.
As you'll soon be replacing blades weekly, as if they're going out of fashion.
Your posted picture is what I use for baseboards. Not practical to haul around my 10-inch Milwaukee Magnum or my 12-inch Dewalt for wall-to-floor trim work. No complaints so far. Got mine at Harbor Freight a year ago for under $106.00 w/tax.
At that price range just get anything you can afford, it's all shit. When you get big boy money have a look at the latest makita has to offer. Their front rail range is top notch
figure out how tall your baseboard is and size the saw so you can cut through in a single stroke.
leave money for a good blade, particularly if you get a cheap saw. their blades tend to be particularly bad. a diablo or similar blade will give you clean cuts with no tearout.
i had a dewalt 10" non slider and it was great. really repeatable cuts. most of the sliders have some wobble, especially at full extension. i sold it but it was more repeatable than the high end metabo that replaced it.
the dewalt was a compound 10". The metabo was a 12" slider with the side mount guides. like pic related but plug in. footprint was almost the same as the dewalt but way more cut capacity. this is a big deal to me as i have a really small workshop. i think metabo was retiring this design so i got over 60% off. sold my dewalt for almost as much. it was worth it.
You would think Lowe’s would spend the money to buy Kobalt.com if they wanted it.
But Home Depot also has some goofy factory direct website that looks a little sketchy where they sell overstock and refurbished Ryobi and Ridgid stuff, so idk.
I would say It's a scam. They don't mention Kobalt Tools on about us section. Also they don't use registered brand name Kobalt with "R"
Their address is the same with https://www.doghotsell.store/contactus.html
From their FAQs:
"How long does it take for the item(s) to reach me?
Usually takes between 3-15 working weeks."
They are out of the USA, offering brand new tools that are exclusively sold by a single USA store franchise for a fraction of the retail price.
You have to ask yourself: if they can provide these low low prices then why are they not selling on Amazon or eBay and making a killing?
This site is 100% a scam and after you pay them you're going to have to open a payment dispute with whatever payment service you use (assuming that the whole site isn't just a platform to push you towards a phishing paypal link)
Sites like this can be set up in seconds now and google etc doesn't give a shit.
The scam sites are getting pretty good. The small stuff on their site looks like reasonable pricing.
The “Contact Us” page of the Kobalt page has “Store Hours” listed, but no phone number. Also that address from both websites does not seem to be real. The nearest Bagwell Street (not Avenue) is in Flint, MI and that 4280 number doesn’t exist.
That Kobalt website will probably be gone within the 3-15 working weeks it takes to ship your item.
Also reminds me of the FB scams, it would have Milwaukee and DeWalt like 7pc power tool kits for $99, but never really had the brand name, and then 100 comments asking “is this real?” and a couple replies like “I ordered a Makita kit a couple weeks ago and got some socks shipped to me”.
From their FAQs:
"How long does it take for the item(s) to reach me?
Usually takes between 3-15 working weeks."
They are out of the USA, offering brand new tools that are exclusively sold by a single USA store franchise for a fraction of the retail price.
You have to ask yourself: if they can provide these low low prices then why are they not selling on Amazon or eBay and making a killing?
This site is 100% a scam and after you pay them you're going to have to open a payment dispute with whatever payment service you use (assuming that the whole site isn't just a platform to push you towards a phishing paypal link)
Sites like this can be set up in seconds now and google etc doesn't give a shit.
If you're going to get a sliding miter saw, Makita, Metabo and Festool for richgays have the slide bars extend to the front.
Most sliding saws still have the bars slide backwards, which takes an extra foot of space than necessary to accomodate the bars. It's the stupidest fricking solved problem but they keep making miter saws that extend out the back for no reason.
Dont think, just buy
Miter Saws are one of the things Dewalt actually excels at.
https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-12-Inch-15-Amp-Compound-DWS715/dp/B07P8QTFRC
>Dont think, just buy
I did this and accidentally bought a non-compound
Who even sells a non compound miter saw?
everyone has one. I had gotten this because it was a bit under $300 at the time. Disappointing but i just need to get a table saw and it wont matter too much
Anon... what the hell are you talking about?
A compound cut is merely cutting a bevel and a miter at the same time, which that saw is literally the double bevel version.
I just paid 380 at HD for the 715XPS, wtf
Hope that dumb shadow line is worth it
My lime green 10” has one of them shadow lines, I like it so far. As far as I can tell, it’s impossible to be off unless your blade is fricked.
I know but it feels bad having dropped 380 on a non slider. I'm building a small shop in my garage and I can't afford to lose wall space. I know about that meme Bosch one but it's like 700 bucks and it'll probably wear out fast
Either way it’s going to take up space. I put mine at 45+ degrees when I’m not using it gain ~6” of space when I push the stand up against the wall.
I wonder about that Bosch. Looks nice but how do the joints hold up after some yeas of use.
Strange. It can’t be a patent thing if multiple brands have those sliding rails up front.
I mean their namesake literally invented the damn thing.
just get a radial arm saw
Buy a circular saw and git guid
You ever see any of the 7-1/4” sliding miter saws? Dude I know has a little Kobalt for mobile jobs that he got a good sale on. After seeing that in action, I think if I were on a tight budget and it was non-sliding 10” or sliding 7-1/4”, I would take the sliding saw in most situations.
>I would take the sliding saw in most situations.
This. You want the radial arm compound miter because you can cut so much more.
>buying a miter saw that cant cut a 4x4, cant cut a 2x4 on its side, all while having the poor accuracy of a sliding track
>he needs a miter saw to cut a 2x4 and 4x4
Its not a matter of need, but a matter of practicality for your money.
>cant cut a 2x4 on its side
Just bevel the saw the other direction, that’s what is sweet with a dual bevel sliding 7-1/4”
>can’t cut a 4x4
Anon is trying to spend <$200, he can flip the 4x4 over or use a damn sawzall. At that money, he’s going to be stuck with a cheap non sliding 10” or something, and that will be less useful I bet.
This is why I went with 10” when the 12” was on sale and actually slightly cheaper. But then I got the stand like 2 weeks later so I don’t care about bench space and weight, although the sliding mechanism means it needs lots of space in the back.
>German Engineering
Although it looks like it solves the issue of needing an extra 18” behind.
>Anon is trying to spend <$200, he can flip the 4x4 over or use a damn sawzall.
Or you know, he can buy the 12" saw that cuts a 2x8 in the vertical position, a 2x6 in the horizontal position, 3 vertical 2x4s at once, and you can even cut a 4x4.
You know, normal things that people actually use a miter saw for.
Only invalids and morons would buy a 7-1/4" saw which maxes out at 2x8 without the ability of actually doing a 4x4.
You gain literally nothing
Ahhh I see you’re a dockbuilder. I should’ve assumed that. I was here thinking OP wanted a saw for baseboards and such.
>bepis sitting here not realizing that he is of lower standing than the dock repair anon ever was.
>I was here thinking OP wanted a saw for baseboards and such.
So you are going to buy a saw that does baseboards identically, while having less utility later when other work comes around?
Buy one thing, tell someone to buy another, when the third option is objectively the correct answer.
Yep, thats your typical Bepis post right there.
>gain 1” of depth and lose 6” of width
Dockbuilders… smdh
Go full boomer and tell him to find a pre-war US made cast iron radial arm saw at an estate sale for $13.50
those are actually great saws if you have 40 ft of wall space for a proper work table for it. my big dewalt can cut 20 studs to length in one pass
Hey OP, be wary from whom you take counsel.
You never know when someone like
comes in and blatantly exposes his LARP showing a complete lack of understanding of the product he is shilling.
For anyone else who is wondering and doesnt want to look it up.
The aforementioned Kobalt 7-1/4" sliding miter saw has a crosscut capacity of 2x8"
So you can cut 8" baseboards with it.
It has a 90deg cut depth of 2", so you arent cutting baseboards vertically with it.
The aforementioned Dewalt 12" miter saw has a crosscut capacity of 2x8"
So you can cut 8" baseboards with it
It has a vertical cut capacity of 6-1/2" so you can cut 6.5" base molding with it
Its always good to have hard specs on things when shopping around.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-Compact-Sliding-7-1-4-in-10-Amp-Single-Bevel-Sliding-Compound-Miter-Saw/1000553513
https://www.lowes.com/pd/DEWALT-12-in-15-Amp-Single-Bevel-Compound-Miter-Saw/1001053564
Oh I forgot
"smdh"
At least Opie could afford a fine tooth blade for this one and carry it up and down the stairs in his apartment.
I wonder if people are parting out cheap stuff from the holidays, like I think HD had the good DeWalt sliding guy plus a stand for something like $400 over the holidays. If you didn’t want a stand, I bet you could return the stand for like $120-$150.
>listening to PrepHole for advice
Pre-war radial arm saw
That’s actually not horrible besides single bevel, tbqhwy didn’t realize Lowe’s had 12” DeWalt chop saws for $200. My wife hasn’t taken me to look for new bathroom fixtures recently,
Also your link for the Kobalt doesn’t work. So I win because internet rules. Also you’re the type of person who posts reaction pics, so you lost at life even though you beat the Harbor Freight bear at finding a sale.
>so you lost at life even though you beat the Harbor Freight bear at finding a sale.
The 12" single bevel Dewalt has been $200 for the last 5+ years, all the way back when it was a different model number. Its always "on sale"
More like:
>Bepis bringing up dock building/repair
>Not invoking the name Jeff or mentioning boots on the ground
He never cared about the board before, why should he start acting like he's part of it now?
Hey, cut the village idiot some slack.
>no Krab Meet
I used to own that lil kobalt, was great till it got rained on and the slide was ruined. Then I replaced it with an 8 1/4 Hitachi sliderand now went with Makita cordless 10 slider. I cut too much crown to keep those 7 and 8 inch saws as my everyday saw. But they're great, lightweight, and the accuracy isn't bad if doing paint grade stuff. I know non sliders (especially DeWalt) are really accurate but cutting hardwood like maple or oak, it's always smoking and burning the cuts if it's 6 inches or bigger, the slider helps with that. If not doing a lot of crown(you can still lay it flat, just a little more time) totally get that cheap Lowe's 7 1/4. Be gentle with the detents locking, it's plastic and will break if you slam it into the 45 detents.
I got this as a gift probably 12 or so years ago and it’s done tons of trim, fence boards, etc. basic shit but works fine.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-14-Amp-Corded-10-in-Compound-Miter-Saw-with-LED-Cutline-Indicator-TS1346/306939211
I got a 10" sliding ryobi and stand for $200 on offerup I've used it on 3 jobs with 4" mdf base and bought a non-ferrous blade to cut 120lf of aluminum base
just get a miterbox you dont have enough trim in your life to justify a powersaw
Why the frick would anyone do this?
its cheap
trim is think it takes less than a minute to cut
those 8 cuts you have to make wont break your arm
So its advice for poorhomosexuals who cant afford a proper saw, and quite frankly wouldnt be able to afford remodeling anyways?
Thanks anon, can you give me some tips on how to out of the dumpster too?
>$200'all i have
how is life in the grouphome for morons?
Damn, he probably doesnt even live in a house if he only has $200 to his name right?
It definitely wasnt just a pricepoint to keep you from posting $750 saws, but his whole net worth!
> grouphome for morons?
Are these free?
I wont even have to eat out of the dumpster, but will be fed out of the soupkitchen?
Damn anon, on the pulse of living desolate and poor!
I'm with this guy. OP should get this, then seriously learn to fricking COPE.
>$200
just go with this
once you get your money up do like this anon
says and try a 7 1/4 since you're just doing baseboard. I do lots of custom millwork and the M18 7 1/4 " is worth every penny. weighs less than 30 lbs you can carry it one hand np and it was cutting perfect mitres right out of the box. only problem is everyone wants to use/abuse the thing cuz it's fricking sick.
don't know about the other brands but I have the Milwaukee obv, but if you can get a any brand battery powered, light weight one that's good, do it. the mil has a nice shadow line, so you're not walking in cuts, wasting mats. you don't need a 10" and if you do get a 12" that stays in one place on the site.
I've got one of these Bosch's (not my pic).
The robot arm thing seems like a gimmick but it's really the bee's knees.
Seems overly complicated for no reason when you could just use a slide mechanism like everyone else does.
>overly complicated for no reason
I mean, it's three extra hinges in each 90 degree plane, on a device that already has several other hinges and pivots.
The hinges seem less likely to be affected by dust and debris versus a track that the whole saw has to slide on. The front-to-back motion is so smooth.
There's a distinct advantage in space - since there's no slide mechanism protruding from the back, it can be placed on a bench against a wall.
But I'll be honest I bought it because I just thought it looks cool.
I have a harbor freight 12" (bauer?) that's treating me fine, but it was around 300 and I dont think it came with a blade.
Honestly just save up. I wish I had held out for either the Mikita/Bosch, because they require way less bench space. The Bauer is fricking massive and its a b***h to lift.
get a used one and resell it once you're done with your baseboard project. you'll get a good tool, a good price, won't have limited time like if you rented it, and you can make most of your money back and won't have the saw sitting in the back of your shed for 10 years.
For baseboards you wants a 12 inch saw.
A 10 inch won't cut through 4 inch baseboards without leaving a small piece of wood at the bottom if you stand it up against the fence.
That's why most miter saws tilt, so you can cut a bevel on material that's taller than the blade radius.
Also a lot, if not most, standard interior mouldings aren't flat on the back so you can't use the fence to hold them vertically if they are too tall. One solution is putting the finished side against the fence, but then you need to transfer your length mark from the finished side to the back accounting for the length of the bevel, or vice-versa, which can result in inaccuracy. Easier to just lay it flat on the deck, tilt the saw, and cut the original mark.
I'd highly recommend getting an evolution mitre saw if they do them in burgerland, I swear blind by mine and got it with a fold up extendable bench for I think 160 quid in a deal.
Bosch and DeWalt purists will insist on splurging a bit more, but personally unless you're a carpenter using it every walking minute of the day then evolution will suffice.
I've had mine for 7 years and used it thoroughly on projects ranging from cutting m16 thread, scaffold boards, 4 inch drain pipe to 4 inch channel iron RSJ support beams.
Needless to say it's been abused and treated like a cheap corner gal, the laser no longer works, beside the locking angle chuck yet it still functions in its job to cut every time without fail.
Word of advice though would be to check out chink sellers on eBay for blades, as they knock em out cheap for quarter of the price.
And never ever let tard apprentices cut Stainless with it at all, let alone bundles of threaded rod without them first being taped.
As you'll soon be replacing blades weekly, as if they're going out of fashion.
Just get a ryobi miter saw. They're dirt cheap and will be fine if you're just doing some random shit around the house.
Your posted picture is what I use for baseboards. Not practical to haul around my 10-inch Milwaukee Magnum or my 12-inch Dewalt for wall-to-floor trim work. No complaints so far. Got mine at Harbor Freight a year ago for under $106.00 w/tax.
At that price range just get anything you can afford, it's all shit. When you get big boy money have a look at the latest makita has to offer. Their front rail range is top notch
figure out how tall your baseboard is and size the saw so you can cut through in a single stroke.
leave money for a good blade, particularly if you get a cheap saw. their blades tend to be particularly bad. a diablo or similar blade will give you clean cuts with no tearout.
i had a dewalt 10" non slider and it was great. really repeatable cuts. most of the sliders have some wobble, especially at full extension. i sold it but it was more repeatable than the high end metabo that replaced it.
>replacing dewalt with metabo
shiggydiggy
>kobalttoolSUS
hmmmhmhmm
the dewalt was a compound 10". The metabo was a 12" slider with the side mount guides. like pic related but plug in. footprint was almost the same as the dewalt but way more cut capacity. this is a big deal to me as i have a really small workshop. i think metabo was retiring this design so i got over 60% off. sold my dewalt for almost as much. it was worth it.
check em
How do you determine if a website like this is a scam?
https://www.kobalttoolsus.com/best-deal-kobalt-miter-saws-12-in-15-amps-dual-bevel-sliding-compound-corded-miter-saw/
You would think Lowe’s would spend the money to buy Kobalt.com if they wanted it.
But Home Depot also has some goofy factory direct website that looks a little sketchy where they sell overstock and refurbished Ryobi and Ridgid stuff, so idk.
I would say It's a scam. They don't mention Kobalt Tools on about us section. Also they don't use registered brand name Kobalt with "R"
Their address is the same with https://www.doghotsell.store/contactus.html
The scam sites are getting pretty good. The small stuff on their site looks like reasonable pricing.
The “Contact Us” page of the Kobalt page has “Store Hours” listed, but no phone number. Also that address from both websites does not seem to be real. The nearest Bagwell Street (not Avenue) is in Flint, MI and that 4280 number doesn’t exist.
That Kobalt website will probably be gone within the 3-15 working weeks it takes to ship your item.
Also reminds me of the FB scams, it would have Milwaukee and DeWalt like 7pc power tool kits for $99, but never really had the brand name, and then 100 comments asking “is this real?” and a couple replies like “I ordered a Makita kit a couple weeks ago and got some socks shipped to me”.
From their FAQs:
"How long does it take for the item(s) to reach me?
Usually takes between 3-15 working weeks."
They are out of the USA, offering brand new tools that are exclusively sold by a single USA store franchise for a fraction of the retail price.
You have to ask yourself: if they can provide these low low prices then why are they not selling on Amazon or eBay and making a killing?
This site is 100% a scam and after you pay them you're going to have to open a payment dispute with whatever payment service you use (assuming that the whole site isn't just a platform to push you towards a phishing paypal link)
Sites like this can be set up in seconds now and google etc doesn't give a shit.
If you're going to get a sliding miter saw, Makita, Metabo and Festool for richgays have the slide bars extend to the front.
Most sliding saws still have the bars slide backwards, which takes an extra foot of space than necessary to accomodate the bars. It's the stupidest fricking solved problem but they keep making miter saws that extend out the back for no reason.
I got pic rel, very cheap but better than miterbox