Method For Seized Hex Head Bolt That's Rounding Off

This caliper bolt is giving me hell.
I've tried:
>PB Blasty soak overnight
>Hitting with impact wrench, need swivel joint to fit bc it's huge
>Ratcheting socket wrench smack with hammy
>Smacking combi wrench with a rubber mallet and with a hefty framing hammy
What is your go-to tool for the job? Triple teaming PBB + Combi + Hammy worked for the other bolts.

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  1. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    Consider removing the parking brake cable in the way to gain more access if you need to. I have been guilty of getting away with the hammer on combination wrench, but I have 6 point combination wrenches for that. I have also gotten a jack under the handle of a breaker bar (also on a 6 point socket and sent it knowing it'll either snap the bolt or go. If it snaps the head off, and you cannot get the "stud" out of the caliper just replace it.

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      What size wrench/socket are you using?

      The actual size you physically used to cause that, don't fricking lie to me.

      • 4 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        It was a 14mm bolt head, I used a 14mm wrench (picrel, unbranded) and 14mm socket. I have a full set of sockets so I don't just use the first random tool that fits over it. I'm used to Japanese bolt sizes too so I can generally just tell.

        Sure doesn't seem to be holding that caliper to anything.

        Yea lol it was just the bracket

        it's funny that everyone just kept arguing and nobody acknowledged this post

        kek

        >Being this new
        Op can't turn a bolt, were here to argue with people that can turn bolts but less better than us.

        I bought a hugeass breaker bar, some swivel joints for my impact, and those flower pedal shaped with sharp rifling in them to eat into the bolt, let soak in the blasty all night, blasted w heat gun, and was somehow STILL unable to get it. The fuuuuck. I'm sore as hell but never even needed to touch the bolt kek kms

        • 4 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          >bought a hugeass breaker bar, some swivel joints for my impact, and those flower pedal
          I wasn't disrespecting you, we've all been there.
          Heatgun won't do shit btw, use a torch
          These days, I like to weld a nut on it because that heats the whole thing to hell, then use the impact before it cools.

          >It was a 14mm bolt head, I used a 14mm wrench
          Idiots here like to use sae on metric bolts and round them, that's why I asked that the way I did

        • 4 weeks ago
          Sieg

          Once you’re done

          Go through all your sockets

          Take anything 12 point throw in the garbage

          Then take all your 6 point and anything more than 1mm of play throw in the garbage

          For most of the poor gays here they’re be throwing all their tools away kek

          • 4 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            You make 37k a year

            • 4 weeks ago
              Sieg

              And have a box of snap on tools what’s your excuse?

              • 4 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                Im a machinist, I dont blow money on mechanics tools.

              • 4 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                Stands there all day watching a macine work
                Kys gay

              • 4 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                Its very lucrative work, you could be rich making 37k a year!

              • 4 weeks ago
                Sieg

                Mechanics have better hand tools than ones geared towards machinists

              • 4 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                Go on and explain what your daily tasks are in the machine shop, and what SnapOn tools you use to complete said task.

              • 4 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                >and what SnapOn tools you
                Not him, but don't even go there.

                Brandgayging is female and Black person behavior.

              • 4 weeks ago
                Sieg

                Way cover bolts, haas spindle covers, fan mounts, coolant pump mounting bolts, bolts that hold the umbrella style tool changer plates

                Fixturing parts, I like to bolt parts to plates for second ops…

              • 4 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                I didnt say "what random bolts exist, which might get touched every 8-12 months in the shop", I said daily which would require you to have SnapOn tools in the shop

                >Fixturing parts
                Kek, you use Hex bolts for fixturing?

                Sort of sounds like you are janitor and maintenance dude, not a machinist.
                Does SnapOn sell a shop vac?

              • 4 weeks ago
                Sieg

                So when you finish posting out a program, editing the gcode, then when you hit t1 arc forward

                And nothing happens

                Then you get a red light and alarm tool changer f

                What do YOU do?

                Does your operator ass go get the setup operator or machinist to fix it for you?

                >why snap-on

                Because when you’re standing ontop of the machine and your shitty harbor freight tools prevent you from doing your job…

              • 4 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                >shitty harbor freight tools prevent you from doing your job
                Explain

              • 4 weeks ago
                Sieg

                That sentence means there are two conditions:

                1: own harbor freight tools
                2: can’t do job with them

              • 4 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                Why cant you do the job with them?

              • 4 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                Probably because he "gets the ick" like a little girl and has to mince away, wash his hands for 30 minutes, and cry in the designed crying closet.

              • 4 weeks ago
                Sieg

                So these are the tools you’re comparing to snap-on…

                Rather than sitting here arguing with you, go buy a snap on socket set and compare the fit finish and function to your tools here

              • 4 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                Is harbor freight and snapon the only brands you know

              • 4 weeks ago
                Sieg

                Are*

              • 4 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                Stop deflecting and answer the question.
                quote
                >"shitty harbor freight tools prevent you from doing your job"

                Why cant you do the job with them?
                Explain to those of us who dont understand.

              • 4 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                I've already answered for him.
                It gives him the ick, he has to wash his hands for 30 minutes straight, and then spend the rest of the afternoon crying in the crying closet. He even stays after his shift ends, the manager usually has to chase him out to lock the place up

              • 4 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                Actually, bad and shitty tools, like the majority of the tools sold at harbor freight will make tbe job harder, or even impossible. What can you do with a set of sockets that are more prone to stripping or breaking? What can you sand with a sander that's out of balance? How about a crow bar that bends? Or a ratchet that snaps?
                Harbor freight and places like them had their uses when the tools were very cheap. Now, most of them are near the price of their actual functioning counterparts. Last fricking thing I bought from harbor freight was a metal drill set, and it did not drill one single hole, and I was reminded why I don't buy their unless it's a last resort.
                People don't even have a reason to shop there any more. For instance, I needed a cheap underhoist jack, I wanted a cheap one because I was going to customize it for a particular job. I go to hf and theirs is 90 bucks, and they're sold out. I go to my local tool supply house, and get a better quality, already assembled tool for the same price, and it's not a hf junker with shit welds all over it. I bought an electric 1/2 impact from them, just to make swapping wheels on my 3/4 ton truck not take 2 hours, and it could not even remove the lug nuts on my pickup.
                What do you call it when you buy a drill bit to drill a hole, and it's totally incapable of drilling a hole?

              • 4 weeks ago
                Sieg

                We bought this tile cutter to cut 4 ties for a bathroom,

                6 cuts is all we needed.

                First one we bought didn’t have the included scoring tip

                Wasn’t tampered with, shipped out of china like that

                Second one, had a blade, followed instructions scored the tile

                Used the included lever breaking arm

                Tile shatters at not the score mark

                We watch YouTube videos reread the instructions, nope we’re doing it right

                Score multiple times multiple tiles shatter

                On closer inspection under a loupe it was lightly scoring the tile but leaving a lot of that “diamond” behind making it look and few like it was a deeper cut than it really was

                We went to Home Depot bought a real one and it worked the first time

                Get this…. Home Depot one was actually cheaper…

                These people here, say to buy all your tools from this store at this quality level… then post threads like this and wonder why everything seems impossible to do

                And they don’t believe shit is possible, “you can’t just cut metal with a cnc mill!!! I’ve seen carbide and it sucks!!!”

                Yeah harbor freight carbide sucks kennametal carbide is good

              • 4 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                >went to Home Depot bought a real one
                Then you didn't get a real one, it's not a snapoon

              • 4 weeks ago
                Bepis

                Frick these chinese round head ratchets. I think they were a sick joke like “round ratchet for round eye that exprodes!”

                I had a moronic friend who bought that set numerous times and as soon as you put even mild torque into the ratchet, the whole drive mechanism just pops apart and your knuckles loose skin.

                But I think you may be strawmanning.

              • 4 weeks ago
                Sieg

                That’s a picture of the Pittsburgh sockets and ratchets you guys defend here…. Idk what to tell ya… you’re saying frick the tools in the picture

                The picture is what you frickers recommend all people have

                Want me to show you a picture of some ryobi power tools because they’re aimed at the same consumer

              • 4 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                sounds like a skill issue

              • 4 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                He can't, he's just a brandgay.

              • 4 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                lol moron you could use HART tools to undo the silly little cover that lets you add oil to the leaky haas machine. cope and seethe you don't know how to handle money

              • 4 weeks ago
                Sieg

                The spindle transmission on 50 tapers? You need to remove most of the side mount and all the spindle covers and fan assembly

              • 4 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                You overpaid.
                Snap on sells a lot of rebranded stuff, I've dealt with the oems, the products are garbage and snapon has a huge markup

              • 4 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                Team blue point over here
                I’ve always been a middle of the road man and it’s served me well

  2. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    Sanity check, you are turning it the correct way, right? I've fricked myself before trying to turn bolts that are on the backside of something like that. Heating it might work, but worst case you can grind or cut it off and replace the caliper or bracket. Good luck, I've got some rusted lug bolts that I've been trying to remove which are getting close to rounding off.

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous
      • 1 month ago
        Anonymous

        >0 matches

        Nice original art my man, I have saved this for my future use

        • 1 month ago
          Anonymous

          >Nice original art my man,
          Welcome to PrepHole. You might want to lurk a bit.

          • 1 month ago
            Anonymous

            frick off m8

  3. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    1) heat
    2) are your sockets 6 pt? I find they round less often. Otherwise you're going to be using a socket that bites into the head soon (bolt extractor sockets) and then changing that bolt out
    Attach your jack handle to the wrench and use that for more leverage

  4. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    get a wax candle and a map torch. heat that thing up real good and press the candle around the edges. it will suck the wax into the threads and you can remove it. I had to remove a stuck cv axle nut once and I tried everything, pb, ratchet/hammer, ratchet/sledge. 2ft breaker bar and literally jumping on a 6ft pole that I put over said breaker bar. heat+wax got it done easily. warning though, I had to get that fricker HOT. I'm not 100% sure how well the wax will get to the threads on a bolt as opposed to the nut I dealt with but I'd say it's worth trying. stuck bolts are such a b***h

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      Well gentleman, am moron. I bought as well as a fat breaker bar and some nice swivel impact joints/extensions, chewed the frick out of the bolt, was totally unable to phase it, and then realized it was actually totally unnecessary to what I was trying to accomplish HAHAHA FRICK it'll suck when I need to change rotors but for now I'm good. Moral of the story:
      >watch videos?
      >read service manual? (mine isn't available onde lolo but I wouldn't have read it be "i know what I'm doing")
      >try the simple things before resorting to drasticker measurers

      • 1 month ago
        Anonymous

        it's funny that everyone just kept arguing and nobody acknowledged this post

        • 1 month ago
          Anonymous

          >Being this new
          Op can't turn a bolt, were here to argue with people that can turn bolts but less better than us.

  5. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    Some good suggestions no sense repeating them.
    One trick I learned when wrenching for a living.
    Try tightening it first. Only use a 6 point socket as said. Ive also had luck with vice grips. Get a good solid bite making them as tight as possible.
    All else fails break out the smoke wrench

  6. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    I've freed many a stuck bolt by applying precision percussion with a hammer to free up the threads from corrosion before turning the bolt. Id hit the housing just outside the bolt and directly on the bolt head. Don't go full moron and deform the steel.

  7. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    Heat it up cherry hot with map gas torch, tap on end with hammer. Spray with PB blaster. Let it soak a little. Heat to cherry hot again. Spray with pb blaster, tap with hammer. Try removing it again without using too much force. Just keep heat cycling it.

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      this. i had to do this recently and whilst it fricking sucks, it worked

  8. 1 month ago
    Sieg

    This is why you don’t use low quality and/or 12-point sockets on modern day hardware

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      > low quality and/or 12-point sockets
      Yea it's just hard to determine quality these days, some things that were cheap 20 years ago are better than things expensive now. I did in fact marr the bolt head with a 12 point combi wrench and a hammer tbh

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      12 point and 6 point sockets engage the bolt in the same exact place. If you round the fastener off enough a 12pt slips, the 6pt wouldnt have fared any better.

      • 1 month ago
        Anonymous

        What an absolute crock of shit

        If you have decent sockets they'll have arched sides and the load will be on the center of the bolt heads sides

        • 1 month ago
          Anonymous

          Almost very single socket and wrench made in the last 30 years uses a flanked geometry, that flanked geometry is identical on both 6 and 12pt sockets anon.
          Im glad you brought that up anon, the fact that it is flanked makes it even more obvious.
          Since the flank is the only part touching the fastener, the extra cutout far back behind the flank literally doesnt matter. Once you damage bad enough to be past that flank, its slipping no matter what.
          Its boomers wivestale placebo effect at its finest.

          Bullshit

          Garage journal did objective testing on tons of sockets and wrenches about engagement points of different brands.

          Here is USA made Craftsman 12pt (top) and 6pt (bottom)

          Funny how everyone decries 12point sockets as devil spawn that will destroy all of your fasteners. But when you look in their toolbox, all of the combination wrenches have 12pt box ends which miraculous dont destroy fasteners.
          Funny how that works huh?

          • 1 month ago
            Anonymous

            >Almost very
            Well thanks for the polite response, diy is a little too cut throat at times.
            Most people prefer a 12 point wrench because a 6 point is obstructed too often to be useful, just like how we use 120tooth or up ratchets now instead of 36 tooth.

            My new sockets are 6point because the inconveniences of the limited arrangements are eliminated by the ratchet or impact wrench or drill driver.

            Asfor a modern 12point, I'm sure they e managed to make them less trash in recent years, just like spline. I've got some older 12 points that regularly frick stuff up, they were expensive. I use vicegrips on stuck bolts not, if I mess up the surfact then I'll grind it down with a Dremel later just to eliminate anything sticking up that would possibly Marr a wrench later.

            I still stand by my opinion the arched 6 point sockets are the way to go. I'll be using 12 point wrenches where I can get away with it, low torque applications only.

            You e referenced a test, I'll look into that at some point

          • 1 month ago
            Bepis

            >that pic
            In all fairness, if that bolt was fricked up or weak and either socket slipped past the original bite point marked on the pic, the 12pt is going to accelerate and rip another tooth across that corner, but the 6pt is probably going to push more of the flat into what’s left of the nut.

            This is coming from a guy who says 12pts don’t easily damage 6pt fasteners unless they’re already pretty fricked up. Stripping a moderately healthy nut doesn’t come from 6pt vs 12pt, it comes from an open ended wrench or wienereyed socket.

            That being said, it still doesn’t really make sense that so many automotive focused don’t used 6pts on 72T+ ratcheting wrenches for what marginal benefits they give, especially considering so many automotive fasteners are partially damaged from the elements and prior morons. If there was zero difference, there wouldn’t be 6pt specific wrenches, especially brake bleeder wrenches and such.

      • 1 month ago
        Anonymous

        Bullshit

      • 1 month ago
        Sieg

        That’s only true if you’re cheap and shop at harbor freight or Home Depot for your hand tools

        If you’re a proper professional your sockets are flank drive (snap-on, Matco, heavy equipment stuff)

        • 1 month ago
          Anonymous

          >If you’re a proper professional your sockets are flank drive
          My 15 year old harbor freight "impact" sockets are flank drive. I guess that makes me a proper professional.

          • 1 month ago
            Sieg

            No it means your ass lucked out and accidentally bought something useful that you probably never mated to a impact wrench

            • 1 month ago
              Anonymous

              My impact wrench is cordless. It's got a lot of "foot-pounds"
              It feels pretty good to be a member of the Proper Professional Master Race.

  9. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    Another trick ive used for rounded bolt heads.
    Find a metric socket that’s roughly the same size only slightly smaller and hammer it on the bolt head.

    • 4 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      i did something like this once. had a cheap piece of shit chinese from the flea market, shit tier socket set. so i had a rounded off bolt. I took a smaller socket from the chinese set, put my good extention on it to not harm it, and hammered it on to there. it bent the socket going on. I was then able to remove the bolt.

  10. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    Last resort is put a notch in bolt head with a cold chisel. Then use a punch to lefty loosy

  11. 1 month ago
    Bepis

    That doesn’t look too bad yet. 6pt shallow socket and a long handle ratchet would probably do it.

    Otherwise extractor sockets are your friend. A little heat never hurts. If you do any automotive work at all, I highly recommend at least getting a cheap propane torch. The PB blaster barely had a chance to soak in without some heat to expand stuff.

  12. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    Heat, make the bolt red for 20 secs or so and let it cool down again a bit. Also get a hex socket, not one of those star sockets, a hex strips less easily. Dont force it, or youll snap the bolt and youll have to drill it or weld it out. Or both. Just reheat to red again for 20 secs and let it cool down until it comes off without breaking.

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      Yea go heat up the bolt red hot so its nice and brittle before you turn it

      • 3 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        This is a joke, right?
        If he has the means to heat a bolt in a chink of steel like that, he probably already knows how to turn it free.
        If not, you just set him on a path to melt everything

        I'm saying it's in one hell of a heatsink and he doesn't have an oxyacetylene torch and he shouldn't buy one for a while

  13. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    I'd use a grinder on that sum'b***h if you are not trying to keep it.

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      honestly best practice would be to replace on every rotor replacement especially in salt country.

  14. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    WD40 first and foremost...

    Blowtorch

    hammer the next size down socket on (if still no budge once smaller socket is hammered on don't remove it just get a long ass breaker bar on it.

  15. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    Dremel with grinding disc
    Grind a deep slot across head of bolt
    Use a flathead / slotted screw driver
    Come right out. Slotted screws don’t strip

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      >Slotted screws don't strip
      The screwdrivers snap if they're not strong enough, beware.

  16. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    Can't be stuck if it's liquid. Bust out the torch. Heat it cherry red, then use a six point socket to wiggle it back and forth. Keep trying this and it should come off.

  17. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    I just decide I'm not a homosexual and use my hands

  18. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    If the bolt head gets rounded weld a nut over it.
    Exhaust manifold bolts are notorious for being difficult.

  19. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    Average wrenchlet thread. Go to PrepHole you will fit right in

  20. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    Weld a socket to the bolt

  21. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    go-to is always a nice impact. if impact doesn't fit, next step is a socket on a breaker bar, then pre-load the breaker bar by pushing on the long end and and strike the bar with a hammer closer up near the socket side. pre-load is necessary or it'll just bounce and not transmit the force. if that doesn't work either PB blaster + that, or torch on the female side of the threads (if you heat the bolt side it'll expand the bolt in the threads and not really loosen it). if it's REALLY stuck you can heat the female side of the threads AND use some water to cool down the bolt itself while the female threads are still hot. I very rarely am unable to get a bolt out after doing all of these things.
    t. mechanic in pennsylvania

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      Drips water on head of bolt
      Credibility blown

      • 1 month ago
        Anonymous

        >he doesn't know about thermal expansion

        • 4 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          >1" of steel expands 0.00000645 inches for every degree Fahrenheit increase in temperature
          Ill ask the expert on thermal expansion, how much expansion do you expect, and how much of a degree swing will dripping water on your fastener cause?
          Im curious

          • 4 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            >head of fastener

            • 4 weeks ago
              Anonymous

              Go on and quantify the thermal expansion anon

  22. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    Guy ive known forever has a mechanics shop.
    Been doing it his whole life. Largest Snap on tool box ive ever seen. He has every snap on tool made.
    He swears by Harbor Freight’s sockets.

  23. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    Sure doesn't seem to be holding that caliper to anything.

  24. 4 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Op has already solved it but here's what i would do
    >Spray penetrant fluid
    >Try and work bolt back and forth with ratchet and 6 point socket
    >Hit it with a hammer a few times
    >Try my weak impact
    >Use breaker bar and hope i get lucky
    >Frick it up
    >Cry
    >Enter existential crisis because you can't do anything right
    There are probably better strategies

    • 4 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      Kek this is precisely what I did. I didn't cry but I did have one of those pacing moments of intense childlike frustration and anger like WHY

      Once you’re done

      Go through all your sockets

      Take anything 12 point throw in the garbage

      Then take all your 6 point and anything more than 1mm of play throw in the garbage

      For most of the poor gays here they’re be throwing all their tools away kek

      Who the hell has 12 point sockets? The only 12 point anything I have is on combination wrenches. Also, do you ever post anything that isn't arguing with le poors about why your mortgage down payment worth of tools is justified? You literally just went through this same exact rigmarole in another thread bro

      • 4 weeks ago
        Sieg Heil

        i have good tools, you're poorgay ass is literally arguing agaisnt high end tools in a thread where you rounded off a bolt with your cheap chink shit bro...literally your thread , where you caused your own problem you dumbfrick

        • 4 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          Yes I know, it's the only thing you post about. I'm asking about you, not your tools, not anybody else's tools

  25. 4 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    [...]

    No, they have a metric bolt on a car and they'll try to use sae sizes on everything and round the head
    Lrn2read

  26. 4 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    I use buffalo tools…best by far…lifetime warranty

  27. 4 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Heat. Heat the surrounding area as mu h as you can without heating the bolt. After you heat the surrounding area, take a thick wet towel, and only touch it to the head of the bolt. Then, while everything else is sgill hot, remove bolt. If you've rounded it, you'll have to pick an extractor and cross your fingers. You need a substantial amount of heat. I've even used 2 map gas turbo torches at once. Remember, what you heat will expand, and what is cool will not, so dont heat the bolt. I'll also shoot kroil at the bolt to cool it as I'm heating as well. Don't burn the csr or shop down. Keep water on hand.

  28. 4 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Have you guys heard of Snap-On?! I not only pay them significant amounts of money but I also spend significant amounts of my time defending them on a Swahili Podracing Forum for zero benefit to myself or anyone and also for zero dollars (busy doing and work with my tools.)

    • 4 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      Frick he’s so annoying…

      Here, $55 shipped to your door and now everyone gets to have snap-on and this trip can shut the frick up finally

      https://www.amazon.com/Ratchet-Pear-Type-SB-Pack/dp/B06XTNQWN7?pd_rd_w=03F3W&content-id=amzn1.sym.839d7715-b862-4989-8f65-c6f9502d15f9&pf_rd_p=839d7715-b862-4989-8f65-c6f9502d15f9&pf_rd_r=FGN54D5V7PCD8WPACFMS&pd_rd_wg=vT3B8&pd_rd_r=6d4141f2-3e1a-4a41-8652-89d27dde6a15&pd_rd_i=B06XTNQWN7&psc=1&linkCode=ll1&tag=quickdiy02-20&linkId=048d3dfe5dc74acc2af34347bfa4b370&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl

      • 4 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        next time delete everything in your link from the ? on including the ?

        • 4 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          Eh if someone was really curious on what I was watching on pornhub they can have it

      • 4 weeks ago
        Bepis

        Would be nice if they were available in more configurations. It’s 2024, nobody uses standard short handle ratchets anymore. At least the Williams is available in different lengths and flexi bois if you can deal with the old Snappy 936 style. I’m a big fan of my long handle 3/8” Williams, that’s my go-to ratchet when I need 3/8” drive but want to give the handle a few taps with a hammer.

        Picrel is a frickin steal for anybody wanting to up their wrenching game

        • 4 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          I recently bought the 120 tooth flex head set like that for $94. They be pretty nice. They were the same price as the 90 tooth version, so I figured I'd give em a try.

          • 4 weeks ago
            Bepis

            I prefer the 84/90T version over the 120T. The 120s have a fatter head for a very marginal increase in benefit. I have never encountered a situation where the 84T wasn’t enough and I wish I had the 120 with me, but I have been in tight spots where the fatter 120 head would make it tricky to get in. It’s not a huge difference in size but you feel the weight

            • 4 weeks ago
              Anonymous

              The 84 tooth ones are just Matco ratchets

              • 4 weeks ago
                Bepis

                If you say so. Maybe at one time, but I don’t think the current Matco 88’s are the same as Gearwrench. It’s super easy to spot the Apex-made (aka Gearwrench’s parent brand) ratchets, the Husky 72T ratchets definitely come from them, and Advance Auto’s store brand is the same, it’s currently DieHard branded and formerly TEQ Pro.

                https://i.imgur.com/hvL5jNp.jpg

                [...]

                I recently bought the 120 tooth flex head set like that for $94. They be pretty nice. They were the same price as the 90 tooth version, so I figured I'd give em a try.

                For some reason the 90T’s are fatter than the 84. At least this stubby flex head is. Kinda pissed me off. Picrel is the newer 90T on the right, then GW 84T, then 120XP, and on the left is TEQ Pro 84T, which was the Advance Auto rebrand.

              • 4 weeks ago
                Sieg

                https://i.imgur.com/fkB9w5P.jpg

                Also more googling seems to say no. They’re made by Danaher, who used to make Craftsman ratchets I think. The pic of their older 60T looks exactly like the old Craftsman 36T, and the 88 looks like a new design, although some of the lines look similar to Gearwrench/Apex ratchets. Open it up and you will see. Those Craftsman/Danaher ratchets like the Matco 60 had a different mechanism than Gearwrench, similar to the older Snap On 936 ratchets

                https://i.imgur.com/4fx0mp1.jpg

                [...]
                Kek nvm maybe they are. This dude stuck a Matco 88 rebuild kit in a Gearwrench body. Sounds like Matco 88s are made by whoever was doing Armstrong tools, and IIRC Armstrong was like the Proto/Williams of Apex Tool Group. I think the Armstrong and Craftsman Pro USA ratchets were just like the GW design.

                The older Craftsman 36T ratchets were def that Danaher style, but then later Sears-Craftsman tools offered these 72T+ ratchets that were def the Apex/GW style but with a fatter ergo handle.

                Holy shit lay off the meth

                Taking apart ratchets and fricking going apeshit

                >went to Home Depot bought a real one
                Then you didn't get a real one, it's not a snapoon

                I own more tool brands than just snap-on… if you buy quality stuff you don’t have to buy it over and over again.

                You also respect it more

                People with cheap tools and cheap tool boxes tend to have all their tools just thrown haphazardly into their tool boxes.

                My tool boxes have labels for everything from a label printer, 3d printed inserts, foam or the very very few harbor freight items I own being those cheap wrench organizers and socket organizers

              • 4 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                My inline flaring kit is by the same company that does the snapon, and it's fricking trash. It's physical incapable of flaring anything besides maybe copper. When the factory puts steel brake lines on cars, there's no fricking point in owning this tool.

              • 4 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                >God help me I am literally incapable of talking about anything other than my expensivess toodbassk

              • 4 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                He won't read or reply to your posts because they aren't made by snapoon

              • 3 weeks ago
                Bepis

                Williams is 2/3 of the way there.

                I used a 5 foot pipe over a 2 foot breaker bar to remove the bolt on the steering pitman on my Jeep.

                You really should think about an ugga dugga. I can never go back.

              • 3 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                >You really should think about an ugga dugga. I can never go back.
                Implying an impact always breaks stuff free...
                Lol. Lmao even!

              • 3 weeks ago
                Sieg

                Like 30% of willams tools are just retired snap-on designs

                When they went to dual 80 they rebranded all their 36-tooth ratchets willams

                When they came out with FDX wrenches they just renamed the willams superplus or some shit and marked the prices down

              • 3 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                Careful with those screwdrivers, I've heard bad things about rubber handles

              • 4 weeks ago
                Bepis

                Also more googling seems to say no. They’re made by Danaher, who used to make Craftsman ratchets I think. The pic of their older 60T looks exactly like the old Craftsman 36T, and the 88 looks like a new design, although some of the lines look similar to Gearwrench/Apex ratchets. Open it up and you will see. Those Craftsman/Danaher ratchets like the Matco 60 had a different mechanism than Gearwrench, similar to the older Snap On 936 ratchets

              • 4 weeks ago
                Bepis

                The 84 tooth ones are just Matco ratchets

                Kek nvm maybe they are. This dude stuck a Matco 88 rebuild kit in a Gearwrench body. Sounds like Matco 88s are made by whoever was doing Armstrong tools, and IIRC Armstrong was like the Proto/Williams of Apex Tool Group. I think the Armstrong and Craftsman Pro USA ratchets were just like the GW design.

                The older Craftsman 36T ratchets were def that Danaher style, but then later Sears-Craftsman tools offered these 72T+ ratchets that were def the Apex/GW style but with a fatter ergo handle.

              • 4 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                but none of them are snapone tho

          • 4 weeks ago
            Bepis

            https://i.imgur.com/PvHMmJD.jpg

            I prefer the 84/90T version over the 120T. The 120s have a fatter head for a very marginal increase in benefit. I have never encountered a situation where the 84T wasn’t enough and I wish I had the 120 with me, but I have been in tight spots where the fatter 120 head would make it tricky to get in. It’s not a huge difference in size but you feel the weight

  29. 4 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Did you try your tite-reach on it? The other thread about them suggested they are super nice and up to the task of heavy mechanics and allow you to get into places you would never have been able to otherwise! If only snap-on branded one as their own it would increase the durability and useability 9000%!!!

  30. 4 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    I just somehow dont feel the need to show off my tools or brag about them. Men always comparing dick size is tiresome. Nobody is impressed with you. They only get jealous. Its fun just setting back and watching. Kinda like feeding birds

  31. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    I used a 5 foot pipe over a 2 foot breaker bar to remove the bolt on the steering pitman on my Jeep.

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