Does PrepHole sharpen their knives? Most of my knives are shit and I just get news ones once they go dull. I used to have some kind of a cheap sharpener but it just didn't work. it actually added small micro-chips to my blade so I junked it.
Do any of these cheap knife sharpeners work or do you must spend lots of $$$ on some expensive gizmo? I saw people use sharpening stones but that seems hard and they have so many grits that I get lost in choice.
Any advice is appreciated!
get pic related + sharpening paste & some piece of hard leather.
even morons will figure out how it works eventually, so don't lose hope
What this anon said
If you're taking chunks out of your blades it's likely the blades are shit steel and maybe you were using a shoddy pull through sharpener. A stone will sharpen crap steel without damaging it. You probably won't need anything rougher than 1000 grit unless you're trying to re edge something. The double sided stone anon posted can be had inexpensively.
For my PrepHole stuff I have a Lanskey puck to take dings out of machete and axe, Falkniven DC4 and CC4 for sharpening stuff and a leather strop & green paste to hone. But all that's more autistic than you'd need for the kitchen.
>150$ coticule
you are a moronic, a norton india is all you realistically need and its 1/7th the cost
I use rather high-alloy steels chock full of big carbide chunks tempered to rather high hardnesses. For this use case, I've found most stones to be very slow. DMT diamond plates are fantastic, but very expensive. In my opinion, though, if you take sharpening seriously they make a great investment as they require no oil and will last generations, work with any steel very, very quickly, and don't require nearly as much maintenance as a waterstone. If you chose to go down this route, then my suggestion would be to skip the mid tier grits and save some money. Buy their ultra-ultra fine plate (~8000 grit) and their ultra course (~220 grit), and use an old leather belt to strop. (sub micron diamond paste recommended for an autistically sharp edge) I warn you, their stones have a break-in time and won't leave a very regular finish until then.
Alternatively is technically right, but not for the reasons they likely think. You can, technically, get a shaving sharp finish off any stone. There are videos of people shaving after using a cinder-brick as a stone. As the surface of the stone is actually an irregular set of bumps (The "grit" of the stone which actually abrades, as opposed to the binder), the depth of abrasion and thus fineness of the finish is dependent not just on grit size, but the amount of force applied as well. With very good force and angle control you can get terrifyingly sharp edges off things that aren't even meant to sharpen, even using the stone itself as a strop with proper technique.
Steel Drake is a channel on youtube that has some very good sharpening videos. He's an old /k/gay back when we had good knife threads there and before the election tourists and Ukraine war utterly fricked that board.
>You can, technically, get a shaving sharp finish off any stone
mate, a broken in fine india is just shy of j800
if you cant get shaving sharp on that you plain out suck
You probably already own a suitable sharpening "stone"
that's called honing, not sharpening
***quiet cringing***
ewww.
this is the correct answer, but ive never been able to do it properly without making the knife more dull than it was when i started. definitely not recommended for a goddamn moron
sad
thanks, fatass
I got two used (like new) stones. This is a product that people often buy but are too lazy to actually use. I suggest starting with a knife you don't care about because you might frick up the angles on your first few tries.
What's the most foolproof way to use stones? I often feel like
. I worry about changing the angle as the blade is drawn across the stone or maybe dulling the edge moving both directions.
I kind of suck using wood working planes anyway and I'm not confident to take my chef's knives to the stones yet.
Just gotta practice.
>What's the most foolproof way to use stones?
its the opposite of foolproof. its very difficult to do well
It’s relatively easy to do well.
It’s impossible to perfect.
there are jigs that let you screw the knife in place at a fixed angle and pull the stone across it without losing the perfect angle. you could easily make something yourself if you have the tools.
I have shaved big chunks out of every sharpening stone I've ever tried. I can't get the angle right
Stone is king.
I've used a few things.
>Pull through pocket sharpeners
Not awe-inspiring, but more effective than they have any right to be, especially if you're in a hurry. Far more economical than throwing knives away.
>Electric kitchen knife sharpeners
They work, but you can't fit every knife in them. Far more economical than throwing knives away.
>Lansky's sharpening system with the jig
Really, really good, but such a pain to set up I didn't use it often and my knives spent a lot of time more dull than they should have. Far more economical than throwing knives away.
>Sharpening stone+guide
Quick, relatively easy, just requires some practice. Far more economical than throwing knives away. I also need a strop, I've just been using my jeans.
TL;DR, There are numerous options and OP is a homosexual.
>Pull through pocket sharpeners
>more effective than they have any right to be
I got one of the cheap pull-through sharpeners from Harbor Freight because it was on clearance for like $1. Similar to pic related, but with only one slot. Up until that point, what little sharpening I had done was with a stone. I'm almost mad about how well the sharpener works. I CAN put on a better edge with the stone, but not that much better, and only with somewhat more effort.
PrepHole crossposter here. Even the cheapest knife sharpener is better than no sharpener.
>it actually added small micro-chips to my blade
You probably over-sharpened it. There are different types of sharpener from coarse to fine (just think of it like sandpaper). The coarsest ones should only be used very sparingly, after which you finish off with finer ones. There are also cheap multi-sharpeners that have multiple levels of fineness in a single block, so you can do it all with one tool.
That's the one I have! It's well worth investing in the 3-slot one. It's not very expensive and you get pretty much anything from completely dull to very sharp in a few minutes.
I have that one and it blows ass
I have that one; cost me exactly 2 bucks; got insta REFUNDED by AliExpress because of how crap it is (ALL of that type of of sharpeners I used are crap by design)
I have one super similar from Amazon in the kitchen and it’s not bad at all. Definitely puts an edge back on the knoife before cutting tomatoes.
stone + steel
I have a honing steel rod and a ceramic rod that I use every time I see visible damage on the edge.
The secret is that because a small amount of damage is fixed each time, the knives never really get dull at all and all it takes is 30 seconds of my time every few days. I'd say this is the least labor-intensive method to keep knives sharp. Not the material, not some special 500 USD tool but basic sharpening work done often.
If you DO need to remove material though, then stones are great - even better if you have a guide to keep the angle consistent.
https://scienceofsharp.com/2018/08/22/what-does-steeling-do-part-1/https://scienceofsharp.com/2019/06/08/what-does-steeling-do-part-2-the-card-scraper/
stfu hones and ceramics remove gaddam steel from the blade do think they just put everything back in its right place kek any anon who is posting in this thread and hasnt read scienceofsharp.com needs to gtfo and learn some shit seriously cannot recommend more highly op, just get a cheap medium diamond plate from anywhere and it sharpen faster and easier than a water/oil stone and it will stay flat and last a long fricking time stropping is overkill for knives but necessary for straight razors with good teclhnique you can get sharper than you want straight off the stone
Did mama forgot to drain your sperg glands today?
>Isn’t it great when internet people argue about something they have never done but you have done first hand numerous times?
That would be why people like laughing at you tho
Don’t use a cheap ass pull thru ebay sharpener on swiss cheese Chinese steel and maybe you won’t be shaving off metal like a bench grinder.
Like I said way up the thread, I have a Lanskey pull through. My Falkniven DC4 and CC4 are enough for all my blades unless I'm feeling particularly autistic. I keep a little bit of paste in my machete pouch incase I feel like stropping while I'm sitting by a fire. Completely unnecessary but quite soothing.
>Falkniven
>stropping paste
Like I said way up in the thread, knoife collectors are autistic.
To be honest a sharp-n-easy will do about 70% of you kitchen knife sharpening needs. No mess. Unbreakable. Less than $10.. I have used several brands of this style and this is the only one I could get a decent edge with. I have even used mine to sharpen x-acto blades for leather work.
You can still strop after use too. For a bench stone in preferance a soft Arkansas or a fine india with baby oil for lube. Free hand is a whole world unto itself. Not sure for kitchen knives and the occasional pocket knife is it worth it.
Better just have a protocol and follow it. Then your knife is always sharp
These pull thru ones aren’t bad if you’re not trying to take the time to go full autist. I use them in the kitchen and a lot on the carbon steel pocket knoifes.
The Lansky kit is <$40 IIRC and is shilled all over the place. Can’t go wrong with that except I don’t know how great it is for big kitchen knives since I use it for ~3”-4” blades. There’s a Spyderco Sharpmaker that is really popular as well for a little more money, but it’s mostly pocket knoife collectors that shill it.
You can get pretty good results with affordable stones as well, like the Amazon kits if you take the time to learn. Biggest thing is learning the angles and keeping it consistent.
What's the fixed blade with the orange handle? I need a new knife for working on deck in the field.
If it's a small knife, it'll sharpen half the blade...
Also, those sharpener leave burrs
You NEED dozens of water stones ranging from 80grit to 100,000grit
God those pull through ones-they just scratch the hell out of everything and dont really sharpen. I dont have patience or practice enough for the wet honing stone. I ended up loving ceramic sharpening rods. Not honing rods. 10 swipes each way before each use is almost a razor blade. After dull and dark, use a big pink eraser up and down until not dark, soapy sponge it up and rinse and dry and like new.
Hell, I just use an old ceramic coaster. Puts a shaving sharp edge on a knife with no issues.
Well, provided you haven't buggered up the blade to the point it needs a heavier cut.
I use a set of Lanksy stones plus a strop and I may have a ruby too but I can't remember. It works exceptionally well. The only knife I have that it doesn't work on it some high-carbon sintered steel knife. It's hard as a coffin nail and I've tried all sane methods of sharpener and nothing makes a dent. The high carbon also means if it's not cleaned and dried immediately after use, it corrodes the edge making it shit to use. It was a very expensive gift but now it just sits because I can't sharpen it.
I got these a few years ago and they sharpen my knives pretty well.
The key to sharpening yourself is having confidence in your movements so you evenly sharpen the knives.
After your first or second time, you should have it down pretty well.
I'd suggest practicing on a couple of knives you don't care about before going onto knives you like.
King stones are great, a good medium between shitty Nortons and overpriced Shapton.
I just use a water-based sharpening stone. the only downside is you have to let it soak for a bit to get all the bubbles out before you start sharpening, but you don't have to fiddle around with oil
i leave mine soaking in a tuperware full of water on top of the cabinets. got this fab-6 to polish and refine the edge. my knives could circumcise a gnat, it is the measure of any real man.
A stone countertop is ALL you'll ever need...
A knife I bought came with one, but I prefer using an old ass round file-esque sharpener I got from my parents
I guess its called an honing steel
>honing steel
That doesn't sharpen at all. All you're doing is straightening kinks in the blade edge where it might have bent. It's a completely different tool with a completely different purpose.
technically by straightening the burs and making the edge finer you are making it sharper, which is sharpening. i think you may be moronic.
Not the same thing. You're not making a dull edge into a sharper one, you're just making the existing edge perform as well as it can. Even if it is "technically" sharpening by some autistic definition it isn't in any way sufficient for a knife you use regularly.
>cardscraper
Not knife. Thanks for making my point for me.
>Not knife.
lol, they have an edge meaner than a de blade before you roll em over.
it is called cold working
A finer edge than a knife, used for finer work. My point exactly.
It would work better if you sharpen it properly.
Hones, not sharpens. Thank you.
>What the frick do you think a leather strop is for?
Honing your blade between uses. When it gets dull you would need a sharpener or whetstone, after which you can go back to honing.
Lmao even
>t. never cooked his own food
>Even if it is "technically" sharpening by some autistic definition it isn't in any way sufficient for a knife you use regularly.
Tell that to the meat I slice with it. It works
A honing steel rod does exactly what it says, it hones. Straightening/removing the burrs is crucial. What the frick do you think a leather strop is for? No burrs is the difference between gliding through a cut and tearing through it at a microscopic level. You leave the burrs on for your enemies, not for your cooking knives.
ever heard of a cardscraper and how you sharpen these? No? then stfu
Yeah I sharpen my own knives. Hilariously, I can get my Rachel Ray discount knife set sharper than my parents’ meme “superior Japanese kitchen knife” set (which were fantastic when they first got them, but they don’t understand blade sharpening). I use a 3000, an 8000, and a 14k grit set. I originally got it for my straight razor I shave with (great for removing dead skin btw), and they’ve been more or less flawless for me. Takes some time but once every three or four months, I commit an hour or so to keeping my blades deadly sharp, and afterwards they cut through things with ease.
I don’t have a guide tho which I wish I did, but then again with the curve of the knife blade, it’s nice to be able to rotate with just holding the blade. Never used blade paste, what are the advantages of that?
Japanese natural whetstones are most powerful and honorable sharpening stone.
ah yes... Jippanese stone... forrded over 9000 times.
That stone on top called, koma, is one of the stones used traditionally to polish katanas. Very rare. I truly love how overkill it is to hone my straight razors with.
https://scienceofsharp.com/2018/08/22/what-does-steeling-do-part-1/
such a massive waste of time and reddit (i.e. consoomer) hobby
>bro just buy all this equipment bro buy all these stones and jigs and compounds bro
I just get a $10 chef's knife from walmart, stays sharp for around 2 months, then toss it when it starts getting hard to cut stuff with it. rinse and repeat.
Good bait, I'll bite. I have one set of stones and one set of knives, I will have them for the rest of my life. Initially the cost is higher, but over my lifetime I will pay less money and have a superior product. You are the true consoomer
>my lifetime I will pay less money
imagine being such a broke homosexual that you agonize over saving like $50 over fricking decades.
>true consoomer
someone who bought a collection of reddit stones for their gay hobby calling me a consoomer, that's rich
An IT worker who used to be a chef suggested pic related be used before you use a knife every time. It's to keep it sharp, once it's sharp. For getting a dull knife sharp though, use a stone. You can get nice ones, but the $2 harbor freight job is just fine for this sort of thing.
That one is sweet with all the angles. Pretty sure that’s the main reason people b***h about pull-thru sharpeners. My little Smith’s keychain sharpener only has one angle with a coarse and fine, and I never had great luck with it until I got the Esees, and a couple pulls with the Esee and Smith pocket deal are as good as dicking around with a stone.
They're fine if you have cheap blades, but they eat a lot of steel, and create almost always create an uneven wear pattern.
>years of using the Smith’s pull-thru sharpener
>so uneven and so much material gone
Isn’t it great when internet people argue about something they have never done but you have done first hand numerous times?
That bottom knife is beginning to show signs of uneven wear you incredible honelet. Wouldn't trust your opinion on sharpening anything looking at those SHIT edges. Holy crap, bro.
Fun part about knives is that when you’re over the collector phase and start to use them, they get worn!
Last post was in the PrepHole knoife collector thread talking shit to somebody who actually bought the supersteel Esee that the company straight up said they don’t recommend anybody should use the thing and they only made it for collectors.
b***h please frick off. You don't use your tools. You show knives that are used for cutting boxes, which is why they blunt. Your pull throug might do for you but other people want long lasting, sharp blades, even if they are cheap.
tl;dr answer op sensibly or die in a fire
>answer op sensibly
homie, my first post here was to get a Lansky set or a pull-thru if you’re lazy, otherwise have fun with the knoife autism that will happen in this thread…
Tuning a knife to your specific uses is not autism. It's just an efficient use of your time and money.
Imagine needing 3 months to understand how edge bevel angle alters edge retention/stability. Lolololol.
>all the usual no-nothing bepis bullshit
b***h upsticks and move on. Over the last cpl years you've outed yourself as a shillBlack person. You couldn't tell the difference between a tool and a possession if you were raped by them.
Back OT; op, bepis is web slang for infected penis. Go do something productive. Like take valid advice and forget this thread exists.
>tfw you get to sharpen you’re Japanese steel
Git r dun!
No no. Youve missed the point, lost your edge, maybe? Not just the chips from use. The edge quality and bevel looks like shit as well.
Hey my edge is chipping! Let me just reduce the bevel angle a little and add a microbevel! No more chipping woohoo! Oh wait, I only know how to use a pull through... :[
>knoife collector autism
I have too much shit to do to spend 3 months sperging out over whetstones and knive sharpening vlogs. Pull-thru works bretty gud
That chipped blade. From opening boxes.
Yeah.
The boxes have staples in them MORON.
Autism. And incorrect assumptions.
>Only I may make incorrect assumptions! You are autism, and I am the sharpmaster! Look at my knives and they're BATTLE SCARS!
Kek, still kind of a moronic assumption. I guess it would be ok to assume that knoife collectors have a skewed view of what constitutes a “battle scar” since they don’t use the things.
Awww! 😀 you're just another flavor of autism.
I do not confirm nor deny this.
But I’m not a knoife autist, that’s a whole other level of obnoxious like the gays who light their weed with hemp wick because muh butane.
Wait you don't use a metallurgy scope more expensive than a decent used car to check your edges?
I'm really starting to doubt you know anything about sharpening steel.
>But I’m not a knoife autist
you are the residential homosexual here, the most obnoxious type of autist
>don’t use
You just summed yourself up.
Those are lousy edges. Someone put some effort into making them, treat them better.
Using a literal riverstone would have made a nicer edge on those blades. If he knew how to, that is.
>couple pulls with the Esee and Smith pocket deal are as good as dicking around with a stone
Frick you're a spastic but everyone knows that and your opinions are instantly disregarded.
>Frick you're a spastic but everyone knows that and your opinions are instantly disregarded.
pls be nice to the village idiot.
i have one of these and a set of boride brand whetstones. it works but you can definitely see issues with it holding a consistent angle -- not a defect in the product, but a limitation of this style of sharpener's geometry.
This is the gayest PrepHole thread I've seen outside of PrepHole. Ops question has barely been answered. And yet again Braapis steals the show.
Op, decent stones can be had cheap. Run them over yr blades, take dings out, make them decent. Diamond is rough, will remove a lot. Carbide or sapphire will sharpen. Ceramic will hone. Leather and paste is comfy autism. Don't waste blades. Learn how to make them last. Also don't buy shit blades, but again that's my autism. I use Opinels and a machete in the kitchen. But I am an unrepentant autist. And pull throughs give you a defined angle, which you might not want or need.
I got the smith pull through sharpener and will post edge shots today or tommorow.
Hapstone V8
IMAGINE THE FLEX.
These things are good at creating a sharp edgr, but sooooo much slower than a fast cutting splash and go, or diamond plate.
diamond isnt even that fast
the assumption mohs 10 = fast cutter is just plain wrong
>t. Never used a diamond plate.
i have several, one is an atoma 400
i have stones that feel 3x faster (while simultaneous finer) thou
dimaond plates are the biggest meme in this meme online community, only brainless parrots recommend them for non meme steels.
That atoma got degraded to being lapping plate, the cheaper ones went into the trash last week
Okay, what stones? I've always found diamond plates to be extremely fast when using a lot of pressure. I hate using them because of how nasty the feedback is.
my fastest is a missarka white, leveled with coarse SiC powder and filled with Vaseline because frick soaking.
My experience is any sintered ceramic that is properly dressed is a killer, abrasion density just cant get higher than sintered. Stone dressing is key, everyone with a bench grinder knows what difference this makes.
Diamond plates on the other hand have shit abrasion density, over half of the surface is useless nickle binder and you cant redress them to a uniform height. On top, on all the cheap plates half the surface is plastic holes
again, go read the fricking blog midwit
even thiu sample size 1 and unkonw wear,
That proofs my point lol.
Atome 400 is slower than king 1000, and my stone isnt even in the comparison
its a simple experiment
also grit size doesnt equal faster abrasion unless it is accompanied by enough force to break down the abrasives
im not the biggest fan of nickel diamond plates either just for the record. i do like their abililty to remove hard steel fast and their flatness but i prefer resin bonded or decent sic for maintenance
coarse diamond plates should only be used for lapping lol i totally agee
the science guy says the coarse plates dont cut fast afterbreak in bc the larger diamonds end up shearing off relatively flat so there arent any protrusions of diamond to remove steel , so they end up at effectively a much, much higher grit rating
gay!
Easy to frick the tempering
Uncooled powered abrasives ALWAYS damage the temper on the edge. Even hard sanding without coolant will reduce edge retention.
You can damage the temper on just the surface of the steel as well. There have been catra tests showing waterstones provide better edge retention than those little belt sanders designed for sharpening, and factory edges.
Please remember your edge is incredibly thin. That's what makes it an edge.
Protip for those who don't want to spend an eternity on a sharpening stone but don't want to buy a bulky bench grinder: use a cut off tool. 90% of knives are made of soft low grade stainless steel that's not even hardened on the edge which carbide cut off wheels easily eat through. Put the knife securely in a vice and make sweeping left to right passes on the edge with light pressure/low speed to avoid gouging the metal.
Even better protip: Buy super steel knives (ie spyderco), edge retention is exponentially higher and when they dull only require a few passes on a diamond stone. DO NOT grind these as it will destroy the hardened edge.
>edge retention is exponentially higher
no one uses knifes
all tradies moved on to utility knife and box cutters, only autists wank over their spyderco banchmade and whatever. No need to sharpen, they will never see use anyway
Super steel knives are known to cut MILES of soft material like cardboard before they become blunt and become razor sharp again after a few passes on a diamond stone. Eventually though the hardened edge will wear down and edge retention will get worse over time as you sharpen. However that's basically the equivalent of buying 100+ utility blades. The latter is obviously cheaper but it becomes a huge pain in the ass having to change out blades and dispose of old blades vs using a diamond stone every couple of days to weeks depending on usage. Also it's pretty fricking cool that a pocket knife can essentially replace a pair of scissors for cutting things like plastic/wallpaper due to how much sharper you can hone a super steel edge vs factory utility knife blade edge.
You're half right though, super steels achieve their 1337 soft material cutting performance due to having the ability to reach the same hardness as a M42 cobalt drill bit used for drilling through hardened steel which makes the edges brittle. When it comes to hard/abrasive materials like drywall/fiberglass insulation they tend to chip the hardened super steel edges which ruins the knives permanently. For those applications you're better off with a utility knife.
What are you talking about? The steel is through hardened. Repairing a chipped edge wouldn't alter edge retention at all
The factory edge is HARDER than the body tang of the knife. Otherwise simply dropping a super steel knife would cause it to easily break like a metal file and you would get a lot of unhappy customers.
Even if they did a differential temper on the blade I do not see them only leaving the factory edge at a high hardness. Most of the time it's at least 1/3 of the blade will be kept at the high hardness. Typical super steels need to be tempered at 1000+ degrees.
I believe it would also take an extensive annealing process to reintroduce any sort of toughness to a super steel after hardening. This is not really feasible with something like a knife, and super steels are almost always heat treated in a vacuum furnace. Last thing is that over tempering some steels can actually lead to lower toughness.
Do you have any source for your claims?
this is umironically the most moronic post ive read today it pretty much sums up the level of knowlege of the knife public, watch parts of 3 youtubes and viola...slinging gaddam protips about angle grinders and saying "super steels" are btfo from chipping lol
lmao even
holyshit, please go back to whatever pajeet reddit board you came from
Got the smiths sharpener and used it on this knife I made that I sadly left outside for months. It was my first of this style and the handle/bolster passed the weather test incredibly well, so there's that.
Anyways, I used the thing on it and it pretty quickly got an edge that could shave my arm hairs from super dull.
In a pinch these would come in handy, but I noticed that for a chipped edge it only carried it through the sharpening. The edge looks awful even after using the fine ceramic to clean it up. If you need to repair your edge using this thing will only make more work for you later on.
I could probably get it just as sharp with a whetstone in the same amount of time and the edge would be much nicer looking, and I could tune the edge and bevel.
Knives and sharpening is really one of those subjects that brings out the geargays and turbo autists, huh?
Those pull-through sharpeners do a good job in the kitchen. I have a hunting knife that only gets used every couple of years and a norton pocket stone works well to keep that functional.
Beyond that, give a shit.
No they don't, they create jagged edges that fold over quickly which results in having to use more force to cut things which makes knives more dangerous to use. Though more importantly they only work on low quality knives, as soon as you start using them on knives with a hardened edge you quickly wear down the carbide and ruin said hardened edge in the process because you end up removing more material than necessary to sharpen.
If you're okay with having to sharpen frequently and have a steady supply of dollar store knives that won't frick up the carbide then it's better than nothing but it puts you on the same level as people who wear the same pair of jeans for the entire week and try to hide their rotting BO smell with axe spray.
I sharpen maybe once a month, they cut just fine. And yeah some of my kitchen knives were thrift finds, they work great too. I lived with a guy that had a large collection of global knives once, very nice, very sharp. Had to baby them. Not worth, don’t give a shit. They’re tools, and I along with most ordinary people don’t benefit from knife wank nonsense in any way.
>omg I bet ur knives are just cheap stee…
Frick off nerd lmao
You need a 3 dollar rock from harbor freight and skill.
Though, a bench grinder is good to rough an edge in from the factory.
Everything else is masterbation. Gotta git gud
Stop buying dollar store knives.
Inexpensive Lansky turn box has lasted me for many years now, sharpening all kinds of blades. Easy to use and has 2 angles.
Less than $30 on Amazon.
Ahh this thread ended up jusr as autismo-filled as any good knoife sharpening thread on PrepHole or /k/
Takes one to know one.
A good river stone does a better job than your little shmit sharpener.
no it doesnt. try sharpening >64 rockwell anything on that riverstone . let me know how sharpening something like maxamet or 110v goes
I've made knives from zmax and other ultra high carbide steels. Only a fool or numbers obsessed nerd would have anything other than a collectors/novelty piece made from maxamet or 110v. I doubt you have even the slightest understanding of how brittle a steel like maxamet or zmax really is.
Using a pull through on such a brittle steel is nearly the stupidest thing I've heard about sharpening knives.
You're an butthole for making me agree with the smith sharpener autist, btw.
Autism.
OP isn’t a nerd making knoifes out of maxamettiumus CPM 77VX
Learning and gaining experience is autism. Okay, basketball American. Goimg to make fun of me for knowing how to read next, or just contine on calling everyone who knows more than you autistic while simultaneously projecting severe and dire autism?
Simple carbon steels are my favorite for many reasons.
You should really reconsider your life. Imagine failing at larping as a knife maker on an image board. Or maybe you’re just a shitty knife maker who should stick to leaf springs for the flea market Bowie knives you sweatily sell to carny folk and the like.
Maxamet, when done by Spyderco(the only knife co that I’ve used in that steel) is fantastic. It will literally hold an edge for a year of edc use. It’s not chippy, but it’s a b***h to sharpen and it’s not stainless. Would I want a 67hrc maxamet fixed blade for “hard use” probably not. 3 or 4v is better for that.
Hers a real knife maker talking about maxamet..
“
“It is currently the only production knife you readily can buy that's at 67-70hrc at ~23% carbide volume and Spyderco is consistently making them which is quite a feat in engineering that doesn't seem to get enough praise from the community.
From my personal experience,
I ground all the CATRA blades for edge retention testing. Steels like 1095 didn't dull a single 60grit "top of the line" Norton Blaze 980p ceramic belt.
Grinding Maxamet on a 2.5" test blade to 0.010" just like the 1095, the Maxamet killed 5 ceramic belts to cut it. That's a $10 belt.
Spent more on abrasive for a unfinished blade than most people spend on a complete knife.
Belts per blade is not as fun as blades per belt.
So it's all around harder for everyone at every stage in the industry to get it to you in a knife.
The reward however is that it's the hardest, longest cutting production knife in pure controlled cutting you can buy at this point.
the trick is in industry they dont use belt grinder all that much.
a 20$ grinding disc will outlive several of these fancy belts, but the hobbyist doesnt have the machinery to make use out of that
Simple carbon steel is better than super steels. It really is that simple.
*dulls after a couple feet of cutting cardboard*
It's not just the higher HRC but the carbides as well. That's why dewalt's carbide coated utility blades last so long compared to bimetal blades as shown in
*Over exaggerates every couple of words*
Bud, you're preaching to the choir I know metallurgy and why hard carbides improve edge retention. If you care about muh carbides so much get a properly HTd 52100 blade. Great edge retention, toughness, and super easy to sharpen.
Super steel blades lose that super sharp edge pretty quickly that you spent so long making and stay at a just meh level of sharpness for a long time. That's the cruel joke about high carbide steel with extreme edge retention.
I bet if dewalt bumped the cost up to $2/blade they could introduce enough carbides on that thing to remain razor sharp after cutting 100 feet of drywall.
Have at it, bucko. Pure tungsten carbide razor blades. Only 13 dollars per blade + shipping and handling!
I don't really care about carbide coatings. A great HT process is more important than some sort of coating for me.
that is either a scam or incredible moronic
You doubt americancuttingedge.com's power level? Behold medical grade razor blades. For a mere 25 dollars per razor blade you can have the most powerful razorblades on planet earth. 80 miles of wrists, 3000 yards of dry wall, 400 miles of cardboard! If you dream it these blades can cut it.
>80 miles of wrists
Now THAT'S bleeding edge technology.
heres a real protip
making resin bonded diamond stones is the easiest thing in the world
literally mix diamond powder with epoxy in a mold, vacuum degas, let cure, flatten the top with loose abrasive on float glass. this produces stones almost exactly like CGS' resin stones or any of the others, for a fraction of the cost
they cut fast, last a long time, and are way easier on the steel than diamond plates, the only thing better is supposed to be the cintered diamond frickers
picrel
It turns out utility blades have improved significantly over time. If a utility knife is good enough for your cutting needs then this is a great alternative to sharpening. Huge props to project farm for doing all this testing to cut through marketing BS.
For those who don't know, cutting drywall with a knife is like dragging it across a piece of sandpaper.
Drywallers for the most part gave up on trying to cut through the entire thickness of drywall sheets with a utility knife. They now use routers with solid carbide spiral drill bits.
1 if you need a hole get a padsaw you fricking pussy jesus chriust
2 the test earlier shows clearly he is scoring, quite clearly, the paper back of the drywall board, which is how you cut sheets before offering them up, score and snap because its brittle, he is not cutting through plaster.
So why do the blades dull more than when cutting cardboard? All the bimetal blades are too dull to be useful as utility blades after cutting through drywall. Are you saying the paper side of drywall is made out of sandpaper?
Drywall dust and the blades scrape against the drywall when cutting the paper would be my guess.
Chef here, if you're serious about sharpening your knife _properly_ you'll want to opt for the whetstone. Lots of good ones posted here but I'd honestly recommend just getting one or two cheap ones to start with, especially if you've got shit knives. Don't worry about the grits too much, I started with a 1000/400 grit stone.
Sharpening takes a lot of attention to detail, you have to watch how the stone is wearing down, feel for the drag of the knife, the pressure you're distributing across the blade, how it sounds etc. It's good to use a guide at the start to get your angle right.
After that get yourself a decent steel so you can hone it between jobs, get used to doing this it takes 20 seconds and makes a world of difference.
You'll probably frick up the edge a lot which is normal but once you're confident enough with all that you should buy a nice knife and some stones.
Otherwise go for one of the other options people have posted here, this is something I've learnt over a few years as to maintain the tools of my trade not as a hobby.
Alternatively good knife companies like Messermeister offer a free "for life" sharpening service.
thank you!
>concave blade curvature
What's that anon?
Im half assed. I keep file in my kitchen. Works good enough.
And I file my chainsaw with a Zip Cut in an angle grinder.
I do something like this, I use my cheap assed stainless knives until I can't take the dullness anymore, then I hit them with the file and finish with spit and a whetstone. Maybe every six months or so? Works bretty good.
how to sharp this kind, each arc segment is 2mm
You sharpen serrated knoifes with the little rods like pic related.
Some sharpeners like the little $10 Smith’s in this pic
have a fold out rod-spike thingy for serrations.
>2mm
it doesnt exist that small
Ack-shoe-ally You can get a 2mm diamond burr for a rotary tool.
You know it's not the same, right?
Yeah one is a spinamajiggy the other is a pushypully.
What else you got for it, aside from folding sandpaper in half and using the corner?
this one anon! i just need the 2mm cable
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/X1Tlu_u_urI
Guys I finally got my pull through sharpener. My knife looks kinda funny now. Am I doing it right?
Perfect! Congrats!
Looks tight.
I have a cheap electric one with 2 stones and it works great
Don't waste your time manually sharpening when you obv dgaf
There was this jap guy on yt who sharpened a cheapass knife with up to a 30k grind stone just because
Cool story bro
No sweat, sis
how does one finish a razor on a hard jnat?
i progress up to 8k synth and pass a hht, then i move onto the jnat with light tomo slurry. after 50 passes and stropping the hht barely passes and lost all of its bite
If you've already got hht you should only be using trace tomo slurry with less pressure than the weight of the razor.
Trace means like 98% water, 2% slurry.
You shouldn't count passes with jnats either it's all about feel.
I usually do bevel set at 1.5k then botan,tenjyou,mejiro,koma,tomo,water only lineup. I get a really good hht passing edge that is super comfortable.
Another thing with jnats is you need to do like 10 strops on your hand before doing hht test.
Last thing passing hht doesn't always mean you did a good job with jnat. A comfortable shave does.
goddamn imagine getting filtered by a rock.
will try a lighter slurry next.
i bevel set with the 1k shapton. would not recommend
It took me a long time to figure out jnats well enough to get a great shave with them. There's a pretty steep learning curve to it especially if you're using a nagura progression.
The 1.5k shapton ceramic is actually faster than the 1k and dishes fairly slowly. I like it for bevel setting.
mfw i found out all commercial razor blades are sharpened with 600 grit.
Now I use a dollar store stone, about 600 grit instead of my japanese 1000/6000 stones.
Indistinguishable results.
I sharpen all my olfa blades and drywall knife blades with them too - it’s faster than replacing them. It only takes a few seconds and the blade remains and maintains it’s peak sharpness.
I’ll see if i can find that video of that asian leather worker that takes about 5 strokes on the stone, then one push stroke to remove the burr, and proceeds to cut through thick leather like it was ice cream. His knife is this thing that looks like a putty spatula, popular among asian craftsman that have been doing this for 4000 years.
yep, the reason all western manufacturers up until a decade ago mainly made 200-800 grit bench stones is because they are more useful.
Japanese the 1k all rounder is a reddit meme
Everyone in this thread is a high IQ counter instinctual book and blogpost STEM-trained Black person brained educated stupid lonely masturbator anime watching horny testicles spit mouthed glasses wearing truecel over 5'9 tall subhuman.
that adjective phrase probably should have been hypenated.
Now THAT is rude.
I have a set of atoma diamond plates, a line of shaptons from 320 to 16000, had a tormek, and have a slow speed grinder with CBN wheels and I'm still a fricking moron because I eventually realized that almost all I ever use is a 1k diamond plate
how do I un-dish a stone? preferably for less than $20
what type of stone?
if its hard, a tile, water and 80 grit SiC blasting compound
if its soft, the same but finer compound.
the type is whatever $20 gets you from amazon
I might just get a new stone and actually condition it like you said to, BEFORE it gets to this point
and no that's not some camera artefact, there's about 3/16th of an inch missing on just the white side, and just under an eighth gone on the blue
>the pebble
yea as a former owner i can attest you that stone is trash, and not because of the hollow.
get an india or a white missarka / pink zische / tyrolite or something like that, a hard porous sold as bench stone. same price bracket and they might need a redress after a several years of use on kitchen knifes
oh and a soft like that you can quickly flatten on concrete in its own slurry
You can buy a stone that grinds other stones and cna make it flat again. $10 or so.
The knife I use has been in constant use since the 80s. It's a wiltshire staysharp that stores in the sharpener. I wouldn't shave with it does anything I need it to. The only reason I think of replacing it is that it wearing away entirely.
just use that one and hone/polish it with a ceramic stick
don't be that guy, sharpening a $3 knife for 10 hours using a stone made in Kyomikamikowokawa province by 120yo japanese master for $100000
Why not? It's fun for some people. They allow for the highest levels of sharpening autism in existence.
>just use that one and hone/polish it with a ceramic stick
That's useless unless the blade geometry's right. And you need to grind that in manually because from the factory it comes like shit.