I watched that last night. Quite a bit of losses through most of the adapters... I'll stick to buying one tool brand and the proper batteries for it rather than frick around with the bullshit adapters.
Battery adapters and chink batteries aren't worth it. Literally nothing but fire hazards and loss of power. Saw a two-part YouTube video where a guy couldn't get down 80 ft/lbs of torque on his nuts with a Ryobi impact driver on a chink battery. He swaps to an OEM and he can do 180 ft/lbs on his truck's nuts easy.
Yeah, battery adapters are the work of the devil.
I donate 20% of my salary to TTI, the chinese company that uses american sounding names.
Initially because I thought they were a USA brand, but later because they are my personal saviours.
Those 1” wires they use in the adapters havent been anointed by the holy magical TTI priests.
Or stick with one brand? Pretty much every major brand sells every tool the average handyman would want.
I watched that last night. Quite a bit of losses through most of the adapters... I'll stick to buying one tool brand and the proper batteries for it rather than frick around with the bullshit adapters.
I don’t think the losses are even the big deal. Like they did the M18 grinder and the DeWalt battery ran longer, but IIRC, DeWalt is one of the brands without protection in most batteries, all of the BMS stuff is done inside the tool and charger, so I would bet the DeWalt battery ran the grinder longer because there was no undervoltage protection kicking in at ~2.5V or whatever it should be. Leave a DeWalt battery on a Makita or Milwaukee light that accidentally turns on in your work bag and you could easily brick a battery.
If some dumbass tries to use a Milwaukee charger with an adapter to charge a DeWalt battery and the logic doesn’t stop it immediately, or it’s a knockoff Chinese M18 charger, then you’re going to be charging hot batteries that never get balanced.
>tfw I forgot I posted this thread
Glad to see people admit I was right about the adapters the whole time
>every major brand sells every tool the average handyman would want.
Yeah except the Makita pole saw is $500 and the Ryobi one is $100.
The real problem with battery adapters is how the brainbox in higher end tools is often designed to communicate with the battery and manage its use, so chucking a different brand of battery on a tool using an adapter is just stupid. Wasn't really a concern back when tools were using ni-cad rechargables and the like, but now that a lot of them use lithium cells if they can't be controlled to discharge properly it can ruin them pretty quickly.
>communicate with the battery and manage its use
This is a lie, the battery doesn't need to be managed by the tool. They make batteries communicate to lock you down more and charge you extra for another useless feature.
This is why I’ll allow Ryobi as a secondary battery system. I did it specifically for their OPE and the random household shit. My main stuff is all Ridgid, but they took fricking forever to release a weed eater and chainsaw, so I got a couple cheap Ryobi batteries. Plus if you want some work lights, payint $150+ from the big brands is sort of dumb if you can avoid it, meanwhile I got a 2pk of these sweet little Ryobi lanterns for $35
>This is a lie
Depends on the brand breh. Some brands have management in the battery and the battery lets the tool know when it’s time to shut off. But other brands basically only have cells and a tiny board for the battery charge indicator lights, otherwise the protection all comes from the brains inside of the tool and charger. You can often see a couple extra contacts on those tools because the charger hits a bunch of those terminals to balance the battery.
Run a DeWalt battery on a Makita tool a little too long and you might undervolt the cells in the DeWalt battery pack.
Here’s the inside of a Bauer battery, that fricker will run as low as it can if you keep trying to pull power from it. Nothing in that battery is going to signal it to cut off.
Using an adapter takes some extra thought and care, but it's not infrequently worth it to get a tool not offered or sucky in one system. Just watch the voltage, and like anything else, don't frick around with any charger except an OEM one.
>Leave a DeWalt battery on a Makita or Milwaukee light that accidentally turns on in your work bag and you could easily brick a battery.
You should also be removing your batteries from your tools before putting them on the shelf, let alone in a bag. Takes two seconds and prevents so many issues.
Getting tool brand lights is nearly always silly; you can get much better shit from flashlight brands that take standard unpackaged cells for less.
You get what you pay for with batteries and unfortunately you have to stick with a brand and buy their printer cartridges. No good way around it if you ask me.
The real problem with battery adapters is how the brainbox in higher end tools is often designed to communicate with the battery and manage its use, so chucking a different brand of battery on a tool using an adapter is just stupid. Wasn't really a concern back when tools were using ni-cad rechargables and the like, but now that a lot of them use lithium cells if they can't be controlled to discharge properly it can ruin them pretty quickly.
> battery mgmt in battery
Yep, that’s true, but only because they can swap out the cells with cheaper ones after the initial reviews are out. They can just re-program the BMS for the lower capacity, lower current cells that have the electrolyte that degrades after a year.
You’ll justify it in your mind that “I was just too hard on the battery” or “I shouldn’t have left it in the charger/sun” or “I left it uncharged too long”, or “it got too cold”, or “must have got a bad batch/cell by chance”
It’s not fricking chance, even if you work hard and be a slave to your battery like your supposed to.
Gotta go, I have to check my batteries and take the labels of some tin cans I put in the recycling.
This is why I’ll allow Ryobi as a secondary battery system. I did it specifically for their OPE and the random household shit. My main stuff is all Ridgid, but they took fricking forever to release a weed eater and chainsaw, so I got a couple cheap Ryobi batteries. Plus if you want some work lights, payint $150+ from the big brands is sort of dumb if you can avoid it, meanwhile I got a 2pk of these sweet little Ryobi lanterns for $35
>This is a lie
Depends on the brand breh. Some brands have management in the battery and the battery lets the tool know when it’s time to shut off. But other brands basically only have cells and a tiny board for the battery charge indicator lights, otherwise the protection all comes from the brains inside of the tool and charger. You can often see a couple extra contacts on those tools because the charger hits a bunch of those terminals to balance the battery.
Run a DeWalt battery on a Makita tool a little too long and you might undervolt the cells in the DeWalt battery pack.
Here’s the inside of a Bauer battery, that fricker will run as low as it can if you keep trying to pull power from it. Nothing in that battery is going to signal it to cut off.
I belive DeWalt does the same. It’s 5 cells, a tiny board for the LED lights that tell you how much juice ya got left in the battery, and balancing wires that go straight to the contacts. Battery charger does all the balancing, which is why you will see like 5 battery contacts on those chargers instead of 3-4 on others. The tool should be in charge of undervoltage protection and stuff on those packs.
I don’t know if Milwaukee M12 batteries have a BMS either, I think it’s the same design as the old Ridgid 12V because the packs are so small and they have extra contactes. Tools normally have 2-3 contacts (+, -, and probably temp) and then the chargers have more pins to balance the 3s pack.
I belive DeWalt does the same. It’s 5 cells, a tiny board for the LED lights that tell you how much juice ya got left in the battery, and balancing wires that go straight to the contacts. Battery charger does all the balancing, which is why you will see like 5 battery contacts on those chargers instead of 3-4 on others. The tool should be in charge of undervoltage protection and stuff on those packs.
I don’t know if Milwaukee M12 batteries have a BMS either, I think it’s the same design as the old Ridgid 12V because the packs are so small and they have extra contactes. Tools normally have 2-3 contacts (+, -, and probably temp) and then the chargers have more pins to balance the 3s pack.
Here’s a pic showing how they keep the 12V batteries like this so compact. No electronics in there, just a temp sensor and a couple wires.
The middle pin on the tool is temp sensor I’m betting, and then + and - on the outside.
Charger has all 6 pins because the other 3 are for each cell…
I use the generic dewalts from waitley. The adapter, some red thing from ebay that was $10-15, I took apart, and found they did a poor job bonding the wire to the tabs, even though the tabs had holes to pass the wire through, and create a much better bond.
The weakness was in the adapter. It was just assembled with philips screws, and so was easy to open and fix the moronic build quality.
I watched that last night. Quite a bit of losses through most of the adapters... I'll stick to buying one tool brand and the proper batteries for it rather than frick around with the bullshit adapters.
Battery adapters and chink batteries aren't worth it. Literally nothing but fire hazards and loss of power. Saw a two-part YouTube video where a guy couldn't get down 80 ft/lbs of torque on his nuts with a Ryobi impact driver on a chink battery. He swaps to an OEM and he can do 180 ft/lbs on his truck's nuts easy.
>his truck's nuts
my truck nuts are bigger...
Yeah, battery adapters are the work of the devil.
I donate 20% of my salary to TTI, the chinese company that uses american sounding names.
Initially because I thought they were a USA brand, but later because they are my personal saviours.
Those 1” wires they use in the adapters havent been anointed by the holy magical TTI priests.
>just buy 9999 brands of tools and fill your entire house with chargers and batteries
Or stick with one brand? Pretty much every major brand sells every tool the average handyman would want.
I don’t think the losses are even the big deal. Like they did the M18 grinder and the DeWalt battery ran longer, but IIRC, DeWalt is one of the brands without protection in most batteries, all of the BMS stuff is done inside the tool and charger, so I would bet the DeWalt battery ran the grinder longer because there was no undervoltage protection kicking in at ~2.5V or whatever it should be. Leave a DeWalt battery on a Makita or Milwaukee light that accidentally turns on in your work bag and you could easily brick a battery.
If some dumbass tries to use a Milwaukee charger with an adapter to charge a DeWalt battery and the logic doesn’t stop it immediately, or it’s a knockoff Chinese M18 charger, then you’re going to be charging hot batteries that never get balanced.
>tfw I forgot I posted this thread
Glad to see people admit I was right about the adapters the whole time
>every major brand sells every tool the average handyman would want.
Yeah except the Makita pole saw is $500 and the Ryobi one is $100.
>communicate with the battery and manage its use
This is a lie, the battery doesn't need to be managed by the tool. They make batteries communicate to lock you down more and charge you extra for another useless feature.
This is why I’ll allow Ryobi as a secondary battery system. I did it specifically for their OPE and the random household shit. My main stuff is all Ridgid, but they took fricking forever to release a weed eater and chainsaw, so I got a couple cheap Ryobi batteries. Plus if you want some work lights, payint $150+ from the big brands is sort of dumb if you can avoid it, meanwhile I got a 2pk of these sweet little Ryobi lanterns for $35
>This is a lie
Depends on the brand breh. Some brands have management in the battery and the battery lets the tool know when it’s time to shut off. But other brands basically only have cells and a tiny board for the battery charge indicator lights, otherwise the protection all comes from the brains inside of the tool and charger. You can often see a couple extra contacts on those tools because the charger hits a bunch of those terminals to balance the battery.
Run a DeWalt battery on a Makita tool a little too long and you might undervolt the cells in the DeWalt battery pack.
Here’s the inside of a Bauer battery, that fricker will run as low as it can if you keep trying to pull power from it. Nothing in that battery is going to signal it to cut off.
Using an adapter takes some extra thought and care, but it's not infrequently worth it to get a tool not offered or sucky in one system. Just watch the voltage, and like anything else, don't frick around with any charger except an OEM one.
>Leave a DeWalt battery on a Makita or Milwaukee light that accidentally turns on in your work bag and you could easily brick a battery.
You should also be removing your batteries from your tools before putting them on the shelf, let alone in a bag. Takes two seconds and prevents so many issues.
Getting tool brand lights is nearly always silly; you can get much better shit from flashlight brands that take standard unpackaged cells for less.
You get what you pay for with batteries and unfortunately you have to stick with a brand and buy their printer cartridges. No good way around it if you ask me.
>Just buy
no thanks, I made it myself
The real problem with battery adapters is how the brainbox in higher end tools is often designed to communicate with the battery and manage its use, so chucking a different brand of battery on a tool using an adapter is just stupid. Wasn't really a concern back when tools were using ni-cad rechargables and the like, but now that a lot of them use lithium cells if they can't be controlled to discharge properly it can ruin them pretty quickly.
Are the controls israeli tricks or do they actually help performance?
not a problem with makita or dewalt.
I thought all the battery management electronics were in the battery.
> battery mgmt in battery
Yep, that’s true, but only because they can swap out the cells with cheaper ones after the initial reviews are out. They can just re-program the BMS for the lower capacity, lower current cells that have the electrolyte that degrades after a year.
You’ll justify it in your mind that “I was just too hard on the battery” or “I shouldn’t have left it in the charger/sun” or “I left it uncharged too long”, or “it got too cold”, or “must have got a bad batch/cell by chance”
It’s not fricking chance, even if you work hard and be a slave to your battery like your supposed to.
Gotta go, I have to check my batteries and take the labels of some tin cans I put in the recycling.
Nope, look at this pic
I belive DeWalt does the same. It’s 5 cells, a tiny board for the LED lights that tell you how much juice ya got left in the battery, and balancing wires that go straight to the contacts. Battery charger does all the balancing, which is why you will see like 5 battery contacts on those chargers instead of 3-4 on others. The tool should be in charge of undervoltage protection and stuff on those packs.
I don’t know if Milwaukee M12 batteries have a BMS either, I think it’s the same design as the old Ridgid 12V because the packs are so small and they have extra contactes. Tools normally have 2-3 contacts (+, -, and probably temp) and then the chargers have more pins to balance the 3s pack.
Here’s a pic showing how they keep the 12V batteries like this so compact. No electronics in there, just a temp sensor and a couple wires.
The middle pin on the tool is temp sensor I’m betting, and then + and - on the outside.
Charger has all 6 pins because the other 3 are for each cell…
This pic showing how the charger can get power to each individual cell and balance them or monitor them or whatever.
You were literally the only person on here shilling adapters you moron
I use the generic dewalts from waitley. The adapter, some red thing from ebay that was $10-15, I took apart, and found they did a poor job bonding the wire to the tabs, even though the tabs had holes to pass the wire through, and create a much better bond.
The weakness was in the adapter. It was just assembled with philips screws, and so was easy to open and fix the moronic build quality.