It's satisfying when you give your bead a little tink and the flux falls off in one big piece. But yeah angle grinder with a wire wheel is much better imo.
I like using a needle scaler. A lot of times my welds are in shitty corners where it is nearly impossible to get to with an angle grinder and wire wheel.
im more of a hank hill on oil changes
I change my oil every 3-4k miles or whenever I get board which ever comes first
new oil and filters will only do good things for the longevity of the engine and while your around the oil you can look at other stuff
im more of a hank hill on oil changes
I change my oil every 3-4k miles or whenever I get board which ever comes first
new oil and filters will only do good things for the longevity of the engine and while your around the oil you can look at other stuff
5k oil change is still a scam
If you run any full synthetic that's not shit it's good for at least 10k
oil change is real and it's 5k.
[...]
i use angle grinder or die grinder with burr.
>Sea salt
>Tomahawk ribeye
>The 3000 mile oil change
Send your used motor oil to Blackstone labs after 5k miles. They'll tell you exactly how many extra miles you have left before you should change it.
oof. i have a 07 tacoma, been changing every 3-4k miles ever since i bought it in 07. has 250k miles on it now and runs like it did when i bought it. probably get 500k or more out of it. why do 10k oil changes when changing the oil frequently is the number 1 way too get longevity out of it?
1 month ago
Anonymous
Dude, 10k is still crazy short turnaround for an oil change with any decent oil
[...]
i use angle grinder or die grinder with burr.
>5k
Depends on your kind of driving (highway miles are less demanding) and the quality of your filter.
But be serious here. Forty bucks for an oil change. So $2000 will get you 4k changes for 200000mi. That's a whole lot less than an engine overhaul. Don't play games with lubrication. Especially on your automatic transmission.
Not that guy but I have a SHITLOAD of oil that I got on clearance from Tractor Supply when they were were getting rid of some 5 gallon buckets that I paid $10/5 gallons for
So I change my oil for ~$12/change including filter
The average price of an oil change in the United States is now over $70, having tripled over the last 25 years. Still only costs about $20 to do it yourself thankfully.
$40-$45 for conventional, $60-$80 for synthetic blend, $80-$120 for full synthetic, all that is for the first 5 quarts when the majority of modern vehicles take 6+ now so tack on another $4 - $15 for each additional quart depending on your choice of oil. Walmart is currently the cheapest chain of automotive service centers in the US, with most locations charging <$30 for a conventional oil change, and a helpful 800 number for when they accidentally your motor.
2 days ago. 12qts of Valvoline High Mileage at Walmart, $43, that's $3.58/qt. OEM Oil filter, $4 shipped from Amazon. Oil change for my shitbox, 4.5qts. $19.69 oil change, nice.
Sorry you're bad at shopping, have your wife buy your oil for you next time.
>OEM Oil filter, $4
This is probably the last thing in the world of automobiles (beyond brake fluid) you should want to try and save a few dollars on.
Poorly manufactured filter can put metal bits *in* to your engine.
1 month ago
Anonymous
Right, so I buy the OEM filters, the ones from the company that made the vehicle, the same ones they install at the dealership. $4 shipped, Amazon.
And more than half the prices are $40 with tax. Which is what I quote.
>And more than half the prices are $40 with tax. Which is what I quote. >I was including tax before, so I'm still right
Keep moving those goalposts kiddo.
>$20 to do it yourself
Again. Bullshit. Even the 5Q + filter deal at AutoZone or O'Riley is like $40. When's the last time you changed oil?
Walmart is a lot cheaper than the parts stores. Motorcraft 5gal syn blend jug plus filter is still <$30 I believe. Even the best Mobil 1 or Pennzoil and a filter is <$40. You can get it done for ~$20 if it’s a shitbox with conventional and a $3 filter.
Still though Walmart went up like $5 on everything the past 2 years.
>The 3000 mile oil change
i had a 95 avalon...when it got to 180k miles i said fuck it, were going into the ground...didn't do shit, was still running fine at 220k when i got rid of it
I like using a needle scaler. A lot of times my welds are in shitty corners where it is nearly impossible to get to with an angle grinder and wire wheel.
For the low price of 10.99 up too can get the CD box set of the soothing sizzling sound of ear wax being cooked. Call now and get a set of beads inside your short for free!
Interestingly enough using a hammer to peen a weld can reduce internal stresses in certain use cases. https://crownalloys.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/CAST-IRON-CROWN-255.pdf I just saw this the other day, but I haven't really dove much deeper. It's mentioned near the end of the procedure section.
Like i said i buy bulk oil. Napa or Carquest 55 gallon drums of 15-40 and Wix filters for me...
I actually have 55 gallon drums of 15-40, 10-30, hy-tran, and antifreeze set up in the shop with dispensers on them. Also have like 4 more barrels of hy-tran and 15-40 in storage. I need to get an extra barrel or two of coolant to have on hand...
the pointy tip is actually great for hard to reach angled corners where anything else would have a hard time getting into
the sharp blade is great for everything else slag related
Posting in the oil change thread - I daily ride 20+ y/o japanese motorcycles, that shit goes 3200-3700km and I'm changing it in a parking lot. I agree with Hank Hill up the thread, I change my oil when I'm bored or my bike is on my jack. If it looks okay, it goes back in. Just is what it is. I run Lucas Semi-Synthetic 10-40 in everything unless it cannot into synth oil, in which case I run cheap dino and replace every 2500km. Keep in mind, absolutely zero replacement parts exist for these machines - who cares about a midsize cruiser that stopped being built in 2005? There's no pistons, rings, gaskets, nothing around that isn't salvaging an equally abused parts bike. It benefits me to be anal; I've put 62,000km on my current ride in the last year and a half, and just got back from a 15,000km-ish trip around the states riding 2-up. Yes, I did 4 oil changes on that trip. However, I see this as the price to play; not bad for a 1800$ bike.
be like the outlaw bikers rent a hotel room on a stolen credit card and do the oil change right on the floor no clean up super easy just let the oil out roll the bike forward put the plug back in and fill it up
Ha, I've thought of doing that to places that annoy me, but frankly, I've got a system down - hit a parts store, amd purchase the oil, maybe a filter on the 2nd or 3rd change. Then, go to the dollar store, and buy an aluminum cooking tray, the type you'd put a turkey or chicken in to oven cook it. That's your drainpan for a dollar; run the oil out into it, and when your done, punch a hole in the side with a screwdriver, and drain it back into the bottles. Easy as pie and generally little mess. Return the bottles to the parts store for disposal, or dispose of otherwise. Its always a laugh walking back into the O'Reilly's I left 20 min ago with 3 bottles of fresh oil, to return with 3 still warm bottles of used oil in my hand.
I just put my oil through a coffee filter then back in.
Also, you can just drain like a few cups out, then add a few cups of new and go for another 10k.
I bought a lot of oil back in the day (mid 90’s) when it was on sale, I don’t think it goes bad. Does it?
The car i bought it for was 10w30 but now I “need” 0w10 or some fucking scam (next year it will be -5w0 lol) so I just thin it out with kerosene.
Conventional wisdom claims that oil does indeed go "bad" after 5ish years, but I have my mild doubts - I personally would knock about 1000km off the expected lifespan of the oil if its a wet clutch bike, and more if you ride it hard, as the friction modifiers do degrade in effectiveness over time, but if it is stored somewhere temperate and these bottles are unopened, I don't think it would be the worst thing one could do. Oil does technically have an expiry date, but it's hard to quantify until your machine runs hot or otherwise funny. What do you run it in, if you don't mind me asking?
> what do you run it in?
A 2007 honda accord. I wanted something simple and reliable with available parts. So far, never needed any parts though!
I was going to get a toyota after I saw a rusted out 70 toyota parked outside my neighbors that still runs fine… but i’m glad I didn’t after the brake fiasco.
Toyota shut down a factory today because of a software bug. Lord only knows what scams they’re hatching in the latest cars. I don’t want one.
> dollar store pan
That’s a great hack. I got another one: I get this pack of absorbent dog training pads and put it under the oil pan in case of accidents… like when it’s windy and it blows oil droplets everywhere near the end of the flow.
>I don’t think it goes bad. Does it?
It absorbs water from the atmosphere.
> absorbs water
I think you could just mix in WD 40 to fix that. It should displace the water. I’m not sure how much you would need, maybe like a cup.
Also, you might be able to use gas line antifreeze, it’s like methanol and turns the water into gasoline, basically.
I just put my oil through a coffee filter then back in.
Also, you can just drain like a few cups out, then add a few cups of new and go for another 10k.
I bought a lot of oil back in the day (mid 90’s) when it was on sale, I don’t think it goes bad. Does it?
The car i bought it for was 10w30 but now I “need” 0w10 or some fucking scam (next year it will be -5w0 lol) so I just thin it out with kerosene.
It's satisfying when you give your bead a little tink and the flux falls off in one big piece. But yeah angle grinder with a wire wheel is much better imo.
>Sea salt
>Tomahawk ribeye
>The 3000 mile oil change
oil change is real and it's 5k.
i use angle grinder or die grinder with burr.
5k oil change is still a scam
If you run any full synthetic that's not shit it's good for at least 10k
im more of a hank hill on oil changes
I change my oil every 3-4k miles or whenever I get board which ever comes first
new oil and filters will only do good things for the longevity of the engine and while your around the oil you can look at other stuff
Why, yes, I also like throwing my money into the trash because I am bored
you must have a beautiful lawn sir
>has never heard of kia cars
there is a reason why they hard wire coded 5k miles in toyota, even if they say every 10k
I drive a Tacoma and use Shell full synthetic. Been doing 10-15k changes, no issues
Send your used motor oil to Blackstone labs after 5k miles. They'll tell you exactly how many extra miles you have left before you should change it.
oof. i have a 07 tacoma, been changing every 3-4k miles ever since i bought it in 07. has 250k miles on it now and runs like it did when i bought it. probably get 500k or more out of it. why do 10k oil changes when changing the oil frequently is the number 1 way too get longevity out of it?
Dude, 10k is still crazy short turnaround for an oil change with any decent oil
I know it's a scam because I live in a metric country and dealers just decide it's 5 thousand kilometers, which is significantly less than 5k miles.
>3000 mile oil change
>5k
Depends on your kind of driving (highway miles are less demanding) and the quality of your filter.
But be serious here. Forty bucks for an oil change. So $2000 will get you 4k changes for 200000mi. That's a whole lot less than an engine overhaul. Don't play games with lubrication. Especially on your automatic transmission.
>40 bucks for an oil change
I pay maybe 15-20 dollars per change. So consider it $1000 dollars for the life of a car. Very cheap insurance.
>15-20 dollars per change
Where are you consistently finding 4Q and a filter for less than $30, let alone $15-$20?
Not that guy but I have a SHITLOAD of oil that I got on clearance from Tractor Supply when they were were getting rid of some 5 gallon buckets that I paid $10/5 gallons for
So I change my oil for ~$12/change including filter
The average price of an oil change in the United States is now over $70, having tripled over the last 25 years. Still only costs about $20 to do it yourself thankfully.
$40-$45 for conventional, $60-$80 for synthetic blend, $80-$120 for full synthetic, all that is for the first 5 quarts when the majority of modern vehicles take 6+ now so tack on another $4 - $15 for each additional quart depending on your choice of oil. Walmart is currently the cheapest chain of automotive service centers in the US, with most locations charging <$30 for a conventional oil change, and a helpful 800 number for when they accidentally your motor.
>$20 to do it yourself
Again. Bullshit. Even the 5Q + filter deal at AutoZone or O'Riley is like $40. When's the last time you changed oil?
2 days ago. 12qts of Valvoline High Mileage at Walmart, $43, that's $3.58/qt. OEM Oil filter, $4 shipped from Amazon. Oil change for my shitbox, 4.5qts. $19.69 oil change, nice.
Sorry you're bad at shopping, have your wife buy your oil for you next time.
>OEM Oil filter, $4
This is probably the last thing in the world of automobiles (beyond brake fluid) you should want to try and save a few dollars on.
Poorly manufactured filter can put metal bits *in* to your engine.
Right, so I buy the OEM filters, the ones from the company that made the vehicle, the same ones they install at the dealership. $4 shipped, Amazon.
>And more than half the prices are $40 with tax. Which is what I quote.
>I was including tax before, so I'm still right
Keep moving those goalposts kiddo.
When was the last time you changed oil?
And more than half the prices are $40 with tax. Which is what I quote.
Walmart is a lot cheaper than the parts stores. Motorcraft 5gal syn blend jug plus filter is still <$30 I believe. Even the best Mobil 1 or Pennzoil and a filter is <$40. You can get it done for ~$20 if it’s a shitbox with conventional and a $3 filter.
Still though Walmart went up like $5 on everything the past 2 years.
>>The 3000 mile oil change
have fun destroying your vehicle
.t only drive in second gear
Lol he fell for it
>The 3000 mile oil change
i had a 95 avalon...when it got to 180k miles i said fuck it, were going into the ground...didn't do shit, was still running fine at 220k when i got rid of it
I like using a needle scaler. A lot of times my welds are in shitty corners where it is nearly impossible to get to with an angle grinder and wire wheel.
Those motherfuckers are so loud though and who has time for earpro
>who has time for earpro
Ear plugs don't require time and keep spatter out of the ear canal. Nothing like that sizzling sound when welding overhead for motivation.
your not a real welder till you have a nice hot spark go right down your ear hole
For the low price of 10.99 up too can get the CD box set of the soothing sizzling sound of ear wax being cooked. Call now and get a set of beads inside your short for free!
CALL
1-800-AAAAAAAHH-JESUS-FUCKING-SHIT-PISS
NOW
It is a scam, we all know that real welders use anything but hammers. Pieces of rebar welded, box section, pliers, ground clips...
those wire brushes with the steel backing are handy
Interestingly enough using a hammer to peen a weld can reduce internal stresses in certain use cases. https://crownalloys.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/CAST-IRON-CROWN-255.pdf I just saw this the other day, but I haven't really dove much deeper. It's mentioned near the end of the procedure section.
I concede that it's unnecessary but I immensely enjoy just doing a single little scrape with it and everything comes off
My boss (stonemason) has one of these hammers and has been using it for years to chip rocks
oil and filters are so cheap compared to any kind of engine work.
The chad hammer
ah yes the tack collector
I buy bulk oil and filters. Dunno what i pay, but it is nice to have the stuff on hand when you need it.
Costco synthetic oil and Mobil1 filters from Amazon are the true patrician choice
Like i said i buy bulk oil. Napa or Carquest 55 gallon drums of 15-40 and Wix filters for me...
I actually have 55 gallon drums of 15-40, 10-30, hy-tran, and antifreeze set up in the shop with dispensers on them. Also have like 4 more barrels of hy-tran and 15-40 in storage. I need to get an extra barrel or two of coolant to have on hand...
>thread about chipping hammers is about oil change prices
chipping hammers are great for removing filters do you even use tools?
the pointy tip is actually great for hard to reach angled corners where anything else would have a hard time getting into
the sharp blade is great for everything else slag related
Posting in the oil change thread - I daily ride 20+ y/o japanese motorcycles, that shit goes 3200-3700km and I'm changing it in a parking lot. I agree with Hank Hill up the thread, I change my oil when I'm bored or my bike is on my jack. If it looks okay, it goes back in. Just is what it is. I run Lucas Semi-Synthetic 10-40 in everything unless it cannot into synth oil, in which case I run cheap dino and replace every 2500km. Keep in mind, absolutely zero replacement parts exist for these machines - who cares about a midsize cruiser that stopped being built in 2005? There's no pistons, rings, gaskets, nothing around that isn't salvaging an equally abused parts bike. It benefits me to be anal; I've put 62,000km on my current ride in the last year and a half, and just got back from a 15,000km-ish trip around the states riding 2-up. Yes, I did 4 oil changes on that trip. However, I see this as the price to play; not bad for a 1800$ bike.
be like the outlaw bikers rent a hotel room on a stolen credit card and do the oil change right on the floor no clean up super easy just let the oil out roll the bike forward put the plug back in and fill it up
Ha, I've thought of doing that to places that annoy me, but frankly, I've got a system down - hit a parts store, amd purchase the oil, maybe a filter on the 2nd or 3rd change. Then, go to the dollar store, and buy an aluminum cooking tray, the type you'd put a turkey or chicken in to oven cook it. That's your drainpan for a dollar; run the oil out into it, and when your done, punch a hole in the side with a screwdriver, and drain it back into the bottles. Easy as pie and generally little mess. Return the bottles to the parts store for disposal, or dispose of otherwise. Its always a laugh walking back into the O'Reilly's I left 20 min ago with 3 bottles of fresh oil, to return with 3 still warm bottles of used oil in my hand.
Conventional wisdom claims that oil does indeed go "bad" after 5ish years, but I have my mild doubts - I personally would knock about 1000km off the expected lifespan of the oil if its a wet clutch bike, and more if you ride it hard, as the friction modifiers do degrade in effectiveness over time, but if it is stored somewhere temperate and these bottles are unopened, I don't think it would be the worst thing one could do. Oil does technically have an expiry date, but it's hard to quantify until your machine runs hot or otherwise funny. What do you run it in, if you don't mind me asking?
> what do you run it in?
A 2007 honda accord. I wanted something simple and reliable with available parts. So far, never needed any parts though!
I was going to get a toyota after I saw a rusted out 70 toyota parked outside my neighbors that still runs fine… but i’m glad I didn’t after the brake fiasco.
Toyota shut down a factory today because of a software bug. Lord only knows what scams they’re hatching in the latest cars. I don’t want one.
> dollar store pan
That’s a great hack. I got another one: I get this pack of absorbent dog training pads and put it under the oil pan in case of accidents… like when it’s windy and it blows oil droplets everywhere near the end of the flow.
> absorbs water
I think you could just mix in WD 40 to fix that. It should displace the water. I’m not sure how much you would need, maybe like a cup.
Also, you might be able to use gas line antifreeze, it’s like methanol and turns the water into gasoline, basically.
I just put my oil through a coffee filter then back in.
Also, you can just drain like a few cups out, then add a few cups of new and go for another 10k.
I bought a lot of oil back in the day (mid 90’s) when it was on sale, I don’t think it goes bad. Does it?
The car i bought it for was 10w30 but now I “need” 0w10 or some fucking scam (next year it will be -5w0 lol) so I just thin it out with kerosene.
>I don’t think it goes bad. Does it?
It absorbs water from the atmosphere.
are you thinking of brake fluid? You can open a vented axle after many years and not see a spec of rust inside.