>too big to carry >too little utility to justify outdoor use
moron its a perfect camp knife
It's a solid, quality-made knife. Great for killing/skinning animals with.
It's not the best for skinning but it'll do fine
It's ok. It's not great but it'll do for a light chore/camp knife. It's not going to process wood and you're better off with a small folder with a gut hook for pulling deer apart and even then you won't really need the hook if you've a lot of experience processing game. The problems lie in a tip that's liable to break with any kind of heavy prying, much like many clip points tbh, and where the blade meets the tang is prone to bending or breaking depending on the QC. It's a generic marbles/camillus style clip point that I think got shittier as time goes by compared to older models. For what they charge, as others have said, there are far far better options around these days.
It's not the best option for the price, but it is a decent enough knife all things considered.
Just don't use it to pry shit, carve, or split wood.
It was designed to be used by moronic teenagers for anything they could think up. If you break it, you'd break any knife and you need another tool.
Open cans, dig holes, chop wood, pry open crates, hammer nails, stir the oatmeal, it's good for alladat.
Take it easy, anon. The guy you're replying to doesn't really know what he's talking about. He's upset, and rightly so, but he can't really articulate why, Direct your ire to his parents and teachers instead.
>in no way perfect or optimized as a camping knife
au contraire, a perfect camp knife is not optimized for anything, it is as general purpose as possible, so it can do nothing perfectly, many things well, some poorly and none not at all
Take it easy, anon. The guy you're replying to doesn't really know what he's talking about. He's upset, and rightly so, but he can't really articulate why, Direct your ire to his parents and teachers instead.
Only the last point you make is actually true, but there's knives just as strong for like 1/10th of the price
I don't have a KA-BAR, but a Glock 78 which is made from the same steel (1095 Carbon spring steel) and has about the same dimensions. It's to thick to be good at slashing plants and branches in the forest, or to cut meat. It will do it, but it's really nog good at doing so. The only thing I use it for is cutting through small bones of doves and stuff when cleaning them.
Get a good hatchet then, they don't weight much more and (this is the thing that always comes up) you can make a new handle if it breaks. If.
This setup is an example for people who go "nnnooooo, I have no strenght to carry an axe, a saw and a knife so I will bring a 700 gram mega-choppa camp knife to do everything!".
Sucked for what G.I.s use knives for (every knife of size should be an effective chisel and pry bar). Mine was free from Supply along with another turd, the USAF "survival" knife which is only good as a light aircraft transparency breaker (a valid use when they were invented) to escape crashes.
>It was designed to be used by moronic teenagers for anything they could think up.
Intent and outcomes are different. You presume overmuch.
It's still a decent knife, but there are way better options now for the same price. There's really no advantage to getting one unless you like the look or history of it.
I don't like certain features. The leather handle, the unnecessary crossguard, the overly thicc spine, personally I'd rather carry a different knife for hunting and forest work.
Right, though it was definitely inspired by the camping and hunting knives of the era.
I'm more into modern caveman kind of camping knives. >centuries old construction pattern >handy handle that can be used with gloves, mittens or bare hands >blade profile optimised for wood >curly birch that doesn't get cold and doesn't soak up the moisture and salt
Not that anon but I've killed tons of animals and this meme knife is way too large to be an efficient gutter or skinner.
What to know what is the best from my experience of hundreds of whitetail deer? The humble and cheap Mora. Sharp as hell, perfect length and profile, cheap enough to basically be disposable so I honestly just buy a new one every season and use the old ones as bait/shop knives and such.
it is a sharpened piece of steel. It's shaped like a small Bowie. It's a generalist piece that's adequate for most survival applications but not very good at anything specific except stabbing dudes, which is what the Bowie was for.
>Killing animals
I guess it's a decent enough pig-sticker if you're hunting hogs with dogs (I don't know why the frick people do this, but they do), but everywhere I have hunted that is illegal as frick for every other animal. Most states have declared THD and don't care what you use. >skinning
probably fine, it's a bit long and straight for a skinner. You usually want something shorter, broader and more curved that you have better control over when removing the (I'm guessing deer) cape in one piece. It's way the frick too big for fox/coon/beaver/etc
For every badass with a Tops or Alaskan knives pigsticker, there's about 10 dudes who got fricked up by hogs trying the same. I'm not going toe-to-toe with something that can uproot a tree if it wants to.
I've used mine for all of those things. Mine is beat to shit but it keeps going. I've broken more knives than I can count but my KA-BAR is still going strong.
It's ok. It's not great but it'll do for a light chore/camp knife. It's not going to process wood and you're better off with a small folder with a gut hook for pulling deer apart and even then you won't really need the hook if you've a lot of experience processing game. The problems lie in a tip that's liable to break with any kind of heavy prying, much like many clip points tbh, and where the blade meets the tang is prone to bending or breaking depending on the QC. It's a generic marbles/camillus style clip point that I think got shittier as time goes by compared to older models. For what they charge, as others have said, there are far far better options around these days.
it's just archaic and mediocre. considering most people barely do anything with their knife, it's fine for most people. if you want a modern "tactical knife" for muh plate carrier LARP or enlisting in the Ukrainian foreign legion, get a Gerber Strongarm. if you want something for bushcraft, get something with a scandi grind.
Strongarm is a piece of shit. Stop shilling that thing. It's got no point to stab anyone with and that handle coating goes the way of any rubberized grip and ends up a gooey mess.
Point doesn’t drop enough to do fine work, but the size is probably great for quartering and stabbing people in the neck. A bit too big and no useful features to be a great knife
The primary purpose of Knife, Fighting Utility was to be an affordable utility knife first and a fighting knife second. You see this in the design of the blade: it is a big pocket knife that's strong enough to cut wire or pry open a can, and if you're skilled you can also win some fights with it.
Of Course you want a real Ka-Bar. Buy one. It looks and feels cool.
Get a bunch of other knives from all sorts of cultures and nations. Get a real tanto, a real puukko, a real sgian dubh, get a nice collection of SAKs for edc.
it's more of a "multi-tool" than a purpose made knife. It can cut, hack, pry, hammer, dig, fight, etc. all ok. it's supposed to be a "jack of all trades" kind of tool.
I have found it to be utilitarian.
Tangentially related, I have one of these and a previous owner sharpened the false edge on the clip point. Suggestions for maintaining that concave edge?
Tangentially related, I have one of these and a previous owner sharpened the false edge on the clip point. Suggestions for maintaining that concave edge?
Buy a scythe stone.
Here's an affordable one.
https://byxco.com/products/byxco-bull-thistle-american-scythe-stone-grade-b
The cold steel leather neck is the same profile, cheaper, more robust, and better steel.
Any of the kabar beckers, esee will be better and not that much more expensive, ontario RAT series etc.
I want a knife I can gut Walleye with and prep it and also a knife that can clean up branches I find to make a fire. Is this possible with one knife or should I just accept I'll need two.
You *can* but I guarantee you'll be happier if you use any normal knife and go to Walmart and buy a cheap hatchet if you're not serious about the whole Rambo larp
I just want one do-all knife so I don't have to have a bunch of knives. I get a jack of all trades knife wont be the best for any particular use, just wanted to know what knife could fill those two roles.
just buy anything and use it, as long as your mindset truly is i only want 1 knife youll figure out a way to make it work. might be a pain in the ass to use a razorblade for food prep but if its your only knife you figure out a way to make it work.
https://i.imgur.com/MNYEr5n.jpg
$8 filet knife and your choice of fixed blade field knife.
Personally, go big or go home on the field knife.
just buy anything and use it, as long as your mindset truly is i only want 1 knife youll figure out a way to make it work. might be a pain in the ass to use a razorblade for food prep but if its your only knife you figure out a way to make it work.
There is only two questions you need to ask
Full Tang?
Type of steel?
Bonus question is what does the tang look like? Is it a nice and thicc or is it wimpy and built with a break point
It was basically a utility/hunting knife that was adopted as a combat knife. It's actually perfect for field use since GIs inevitably used them to pry open cans, cut ropes, pitch tents, etc. Britain issued the Fairbairn-Sykes fighting knife to their troops which was only supposed to be used as a dagger. The tips broke off when troops tried to use them for utility tasks like opening cans.
>Britain issued the Fairbairn-Sykes fighting knife to their troops which was only supposed to be used as a dagger. The tips broke off when troops tried to use them for utility tasks like opening cans.
The ones issued to the Shanghai police force and the British SAS didn't have their tips snap off. The only Fairbairn-Sykes knives whose tips were breaking were the ones issued to US marines at the start of WW1 due to improper heat treating from some of the US companies making licensed copies.
When our soldiers and marines started buying their own knives the military decided to replace the Fairbairn-Sykes for the Ka-Bar but those problems persisted with the new issued knives because the Ka-Bars were also getting inconsistent heat treatment.
Gah! Couldn't ever find a F-S or the tilted variant. Bought a Gerber MkII and III to cope. Still butthurt. Whenever I find them, I get outbid or they're just out of my price range (especially because I'd baby them and never use them).
Anon. All blades are chunks of metal with an edge. Stop looking at it for what it looks like, and start seeing it for what it is made of. What it is.
Does it fit your mission? Can you make it?
this fricking modern world is coonsoomerism built on a cult of personality and legend worship.
Ka-Bar is no better than any other chunk of metal with an edge that is within it's approximate form factor, ductility, and hardness.
What do you want it for? Expressedly say, the things you want it for. Chances are you want it because "I like the way it looks, and I like the mythos around it." If that's the case? Grab it. You got one life to live, get through the catharsis of material ownership.
The ka bar fighting knofe looks sexy, but has a design flaw.
They differentials heat treat the knife, leaving the blade hard, and the tang soft, as well as a large reduction in material from the blade to the stick tang, this transition point, where hard steel is transitioning to softer steel is very weak with the worst properties of both, soft enough to bend, but too brittle and will break when trying to bend it back.
This issue is absent from any other knife in that price range I'm aware of.
>They differentials heat treat the knife, leaving the blade hard, and the tang soft
[citation needed] >soft enough to bend, but too brittle
Pick one. >and will break when trying to bend it back
That's just fatigue.
Not a knife guy but I have a tanto I took from my dad's workshop 15 years ago as a teen and think it's a solid blade. It's dull from all the cardboard I hacked up with it through the years but I remember how it sliced boxes up like butter initially.
Probably the best thread for it. Does anyone know what this style of knife is called specifically?
I want to find a nice 60-70s camp/hunting knife like this but with stacked leather or stag grip. I have the japanese sharp kmart knife in the photo, but i want a nicer one.
It's a copy of a Marble's Knives pattern, most likely the "Expert". Marble's Knives were extremely popular at the turn of the previous century, and once the copyright expired, copycats were everywhere.
I mean yeah, they are typically very sharp. The edge geometry and the lack of secondary bevel make japanese swords extremely sharp. You might want to consider speech therapy, i know a guy.
I work in a submarine shipyard and use my doghead kabar all the time almost daily, very useful for lashing and cutting kevlar and fire retartent cloth and fiberglass
They were really good when they were $47-59, prices now are outrageous. The leather sheaths are bad and wear out, get the plastic one. The steel itself is fine, holds a decent edge. Mine is ground at a 25 degree angle. The tip is thicker than it needs to be but it's strong. The paint wears off quickly but the steel doesn't rust IMO. All in all a great knife to kill someone with and maybe do hard use chores with.
Also condition the leather handle with beeswax conditioner, makes it last way longer.
I'm a kabar fanboy and my experience is this:
They're fun and decent knives until they aren't.
I had two that lasted over 5 years of moderate to heavy use, and two other's that just bit the shit and snapped off from the handle in under a year. (one while cutting rope lel)
I only buy them on sale, and I love carrying them while doing innawoods stuff, but I'll be the first to say modernized camp/hunting knives in the same price range just work better all around.
Still gonna keep packing one for funzies though.
I hope whoever blackmailed him gets raped by baboons
Judging by a few of the comments and some quick reading on Bladeforums, I'd hazard a guess that some fans of the bussy threw a tantrum that their indestructible knives weren't.
i carry an m3 combat knife myself, with an m2 paratrooper knife for skinning. one day i couldnt get da mower to start and cut about a half acre with my m3. great knife, 10/10
Meme.
No u
moron its a perfect camp knife
It's not the best for skinning but it'll do fine
It was designed to be used by moronic teenagers for anything they could think up. If you break it, you'd break any knife and you need another tool.
Open cans, dig holes, chop wood, pry open crates, hammer nails, stir the oatmeal, it's good for alladat.
>moron its a perfect camp knife
the grind profile makes it a usable but not optimal one
its in no way perfect or optimized as a camping knife
Take it easy, anon. The guy you're replying to doesn't really know what he's talking about. He's upset, and rightly so, but he can't really articulate why, Direct your ire to his parents and teachers instead.
>in no way perfect or optimized as a camping knife
au contraire, a perfect camp knife is not optimized for anything, it is as general purpose as possible, so it can do nothing perfectly, many things well, some poorly and none not at all
your mother is Dutch
Kbars optimized for fighting making it a bad camp knife
If it's optimized for fighting why does it have a single-edged blade?
dirks and daggers are illegal to carry in a lot of areas so they sell it single edged and if you feel spicy you can sharpen it yourself.
Because a clip point has 99% the stabbing ability of a dagger but a dagger has 50% the cutting ability of a single edge blade.
Lrn2blade geometry
>Perfect camp knife
that's a very low bar. a flip knife is better
It has a shit stick tang.
>If you break it, you'd break any knife and you need another tool.
A Mora Robust will outlast it and costs 1/15th of a KA-BAR.
Not those anons and I'm personally a kbar enjoyer
But the perfect camp knife has a 4" drop-point blade and a full-width full-length tang
As a utility knife the kbar is honestly horrible but if I knew I was gonna need to kill a guy with a in knife in a trench it's not a bad choice
Only the last point you make is actually true, but there's knives just as strong for like 1/10th of the price
I don't have a KA-BAR, but a Glock 78 which is made from the same steel (1095 Carbon spring steel) and has about the same dimensions. It's to thick to be good at slashing plants and branches in the forest, or to cut meat. It will do it, but it's really nog good at doing so. The only thing I use it for is cutting through small bones of doves and stuff when cleaning them.
Due to its design and differential hardening, it breaks much easier than other knives in its size and materials.
It's passable but not good.
The "good" is overall <1 kg these days anyway, never let a knife's reputation limit your capability to do chores.
I like the saw and knife, but those fiskars axes are fricking trash
Get a good hatchet then, they don't weight much more and (this is the thing that always comes up) you can make a new handle if it breaks. If.
This setup is an example for people who go "nnnooooo, I have no strenght to carry an axe, a saw and a knife so I will bring a 700 gram mega-choppa camp knife to do everything!".
Sucked for what G.I.s use knives for (every knife of size should be an effective chisel and pry bar). Mine was free from Supply along with another turd, the USAF "survival" knife which is only good as a light aircraft transparency breaker (a valid use when they were invented) to escape crashes.
>It was designed to be used by moronic teenagers for anything they could think up.
Intent and outcomes are different. You presume overmuch.
>too big to carry
>too little utility to justify outdoor use
It's still a decent knife, but there are way better options now for the same price. There's really no advantage to getting one unless you like the look or history of it.
I don't like certain features. The leather handle, the unnecessary crossguard, the overly thicc spine, personally I'd rather carry a different knife for hunting and forest work.
This.
>personally I'd rather carry a different knife for hunting and forest work
Which makes perfect sense given that it wasn't intended for either.
Right, though it was definitely inspired by the camping and hunting knives of the era.
I'm more into modern caveman kind of camping knives.
>centuries old construction pattern
>handy handle that can be used with gloves, mittens or bare hands
>blade profile optimised for wood
>curly birch that doesn't get cold and doesn't soak up the moisture and salt
>the unnecessary crossguard
The only thing the knife is decent for is stabbing someone who rushes you and you want to make it worse at that task?
It's a solid, quality-made knife. Great for killing/skinning animals with.
people who say that about the kabar never used a knife to do any of those things.
You've never killed an animal, so what the frick would you know?
Not that anon but I've killed tons of animals and this meme knife is way too large to be an efficient gutter or skinner.
What to know what is the best from my experience of hundreds of whitetail deer? The humble and cheap Mora. Sharp as hell, perfect length and profile, cheap enough to basically be disposable so I honestly just buy a new one every season and use the old ones as bait/shop knives and such.
>my experience of hundreds of whitetail deer
>hundreds
Nope. Larper
Nice hog. Picrel skinned with a KaBar
>skinned with a KaBar
Just like fapping with sandpaper
>doesn't know how to properly sharpen a knife
>has no idea what a real edge is
Couldn't be me. Still waiting in you to pist guns and kills, kiddo
I already did tho? and a victorinox filetting knife is better than any kabar at portioning and skinning animals.
>posts little b***h sized southern deer
>claims hogs don't count
I bet you take prep.
post guns and kills, bucko
>hogs
Florida rats don't count.
That's clearly a cat.
>goalpost moving, and no pics of their own while gatekeeping
Consistently the worst poster on any board, and due for sudoku commission.
You're a massive poser
Confirmed for never skinning or gutting an animal.
A goddamn Bowie knife is better. You’re moronic.
Black Rifle Coffee drinker posted this
>Black Rifle Coffee drinker posted this
My sides
it is a sharpened piece of steel. It's shaped like a small Bowie. It's a generalist piece that's adequate for most survival applications but not very good at anything specific except stabbing dudes, which is what the Bowie was for.
>Killing animals
I guess it's a decent enough pig-sticker if you're hunting hogs with dogs (I don't know why the frick people do this, but they do), but everywhere I have hunted that is illegal as frick for every other animal. Most states have declared THD and don't care what you use.
>skinning
probably fine, it's a bit long and straight for a skinner. You usually want something shorter, broader and more curved that you have better control over when removing the (I'm guessing deer) cape in one piece. It's way the frick too big for fox/coon/beaver/etc
For every badass with a Tops or Alaskan knives pigsticker, there's about 10 dudes who got fricked up by hogs trying the same. I'm not going toe-to-toe with something that can uproot a tree if it wants to.
You could do worse but you could also do a lot better.
>not very good at anything specific except stabbing dudes
It's not even very good at that. It's a crappy fighting knife.
The KA-BAR is a fighting knife. It's too long and wide to be used for skinning and field dressing. It would probably make a good pig hunting knife.
yes
It's not the best option for the price, but it is a decent enough knife all things considered.
Just don't use it to pry shit, carve, or split wood.
I've used mine for all of those things. Mine is beat to shit but it keeps going. I've broken more knives than I can count but my KA-BAR is still going strong.
It's ok. It's not great but it'll do for a light chore/camp knife. It's not going to process wood and you're better off with a small folder with a gut hook for pulling deer apart and even then you won't really need the hook if you've a lot of experience processing game. The problems lie in a tip that's liable to break with any kind of heavy prying, much like many clip points tbh, and where the blade meets the tang is prone to bending or breaking depending on the QC. It's a generic marbles/camillus style clip point that I think got shittier as time goes by compared to older models. For what they charge, as others have said, there are far far better options around these days.
Just get a heavy machete and be done with it.
Air Force Survival Knife is superior
it's just archaic and mediocre. considering most people barely do anything with their knife, it's fine for most people. if you want a modern "tactical knife" for muh plate carrier LARP or enlisting in the Ukrainian foreign legion, get a Gerber Strongarm. if you want something for bushcraft, get something with a scandi grind.
Strongarm is a piece of shit. Stop shilling that thing. It's got no point to stab anyone with and that handle coating goes the way of any rubberized grip and ends up a gooey mess.
>can't batton
Into the trash ot goes
battoning is gay buy a fricking axe moron
No.
a generation raised on tiktoks and youtube, won't just use a hatchet
It's a fricking knife.
It's a great knife. I use mine while camping all the time.
Point doesn’t drop enough to do fine work, but the size is probably great for quartering and stabbing people in the neck. A bit too big and no useful features to be a great knife
The primary purpose of Knife, Fighting Utility was to be an affordable utility knife first and a fighting knife second. You see this in the design of the blade: it is a big pocket knife that's strong enough to cut wire or pry open a can, and if you're skilled you can also win some fights with it.
Of Course you want a real Ka-Bar. Buy one. It looks and feels cool.
Get a bunch of other knives from all sorts of cultures and nations. Get a real tanto, a real puukko, a real sgian dubh, get a nice collection of SAKs for edc.
Civilised blades are nice to have.
The right knife is a sharp piece of steel that cuts stuff.
it's more of a "multi-tool" than a purpose made knife. It can cut, hack, pry, hammer, dig, fight, etc. all ok. it's supposed to be a "jack of all trades" kind of tool.
I have found it to be utilitarian.
Tangentially related, I have one of these and a previous owner sharpened the false edge on the clip point. Suggestions for maintaining that concave edge?
Careful use of a rat tail file would be one suggestion.
I use those quick blade sharpeners like the blade medic, simple
Those things are horrible for the edge.
Sharpmaker gang rise up
>had a ka-bar
>I sharpened the false edge on it
>it got stolen from my car
Post pics. I doubt it's the same one, but you never know.
It's an Ontario in the 1219C2 pattern and I've had it for at least ten years.
... wait, is the clipped edge on the ontario 489 sharpened from the factory? The shop photos make it look like it is.
You've had it for 10 years and you've never figured out how to sharpen it?
yeah.
Buy a scythe stone.
Here's an affordable one.
https://byxco.com/products/byxco-bull-thistle-american-scythe-stone-grade-b
I like it
kabar short is kino
its a v decent self defense knife, and passable for camp stuff. dont be a moron, use a hatchet for wood. or just use a rock or something.
The short is quite possibly the ideal EDC fixed blade.
recommend an alternative you stupid fricks
kabar short you big dumb moron
it's actually a carryable size
you're a carryable size
i love you anon
The cold steel leather neck is the same profile, cheaper, more robust, and better steel.
Any of the kabar beckers, esee will be better and not that much more expensive, ontario RAT series etc.
Knife is fine
I use mine to shave my manly parts
It's decent but nothing special. I ironically, get a Mora if you want a fixed blade on the cheap.
Suitable for cutting things as well as for thrusting. This knife looks ok to me
I want a knife I can gut Walleye with and prep it and also a knife that can clean up branches I find to make a fire. Is this possible with one knife or should I just accept I'll need two.
a-anyone?
You *can* but I guarantee you'll be happier if you use any normal knife and go to Walmart and buy a cheap hatchet if you're not serious about the whole Rambo larp
I just want one do-all knife so I don't have to have a bunch of knives. I get a jack of all trades knife wont be the best for any particular use, just wanted to know what knife could fill those two roles.
Bk7 or esee 6
ty anons
just buy anything and use it, as long as your mindset truly is i only want 1 knife youll figure out a way to make it work. might be a pain in the ass to use a razorblade for food prep but if its your only knife you figure out a way to make it work.
$8 filet knife and your choice of fixed blade field knife.
Personally, go big or go home on the field knife.
Take a look at sami knives.
It's not particularly great for anything, but it works for whatever. I prefer a machete and a little kershaw folder.
There is only two questions you need to ask
Full Tang?
Type of steel?
Bonus question is what does the tang look like? Is it a nice and thicc or is it wimpy and built with a break point
It was basically a utility/hunting knife that was adopted as a combat knife. It's actually perfect for field use since GIs inevitably used them to pry open cans, cut ropes, pitch tents, etc. Britain issued the Fairbairn-Sykes fighting knife to their troops which was only supposed to be used as a dagger. The tips broke off when troops tried to use them for utility tasks like opening cans.
>Britain issued the Fairbairn-Sykes fighting knife to their troops which was only supposed to be used as a dagger. The tips broke off when troops tried to use them for utility tasks like opening cans.
The ones issued to the Shanghai police force and the British SAS didn't have their tips snap off. The only Fairbairn-Sykes knives whose tips were breaking were the ones issued to US marines at the start of WW1 due to improper heat treating from some of the US companies making licensed copies.
When our soldiers and marines started buying their own knives the military decided to replace the Fairbairn-Sykes for the Ka-Bar but those problems persisted with the new issued knives because the Ka-Bars were also getting inconsistent heat treatment.
Gah! Couldn't ever find a F-S or the tilted variant. Bought a Gerber MkII and III to cope. Still butthurt. Whenever I find them, I get outbid or they're just out of my price range (especially because I'd baby them and never use them).
Mostly larp, stick tang that's difetentially harden means ant hard use it first bends at the tang under the guard, then snaps when you bend it back
What’s a combat knife that is superior and less expensive?
Cold steel leather neck.
A Mora companion.
Use tools for what they're made for.
Anon. All blades are chunks of metal with an edge. Stop looking at it for what it looks like, and start seeing it for what it is made of. What it is.
Does it fit your mission? Can you make it?
this fricking modern world is coonsoomerism built on a cult of personality and legend worship.
Ka-Bar is no better than any other chunk of metal with an edge that is within it's approximate form factor, ductility, and hardness.
What do you want it for? Expressedly say, the things you want it for. Chances are you want it because "I like the way it looks, and I like the mythos around it." If that's the case? Grab it. You got one life to live, get through the catharsis of material ownership.
Are there any full tang knives with the same blade profile as a M9 bayonet?
Cold Steel SRK or Green River Hunter.
The ka bar fighting knofe looks sexy, but has a design flaw.
They differentials heat treat the knife, leaving the blade hard, and the tang soft, as well as a large reduction in material from the blade to the stick tang, this transition point, where hard steel is transitioning to softer steel is very weak with the worst properties of both, soft enough to bend, but too brittle and will break when trying to bend it back.
This issue is absent from any other knife in that price range I'm aware of.
>They differentials heat treat the knife, leaving the blade hard, and the tang soft
[citation needed]
>soft enough to bend, but too brittle
Pick one.
>and will break when trying to bend it back
That's just fatigue.
Stop being a moron.
The transition area is both soft and brittle.
A fully soft steel can bend quite a bit without breaking, but the kabar is trash.
>both soft and brittle
The only moron here is you.
It perfectly fits the bill as a fighting utility knife. Hammering a knife through wood is moronic anyway.
Primarily a fighting knife. That's why I would go with the bigger 1266 ninja version.
Not a knife guy but I have a tanto I took from my dad's workshop 15 years ago as a teen and think it's a solid blade. It's dull from all the cardboard I hacked up with it through the years but I remember how it sliced boxes up like butter initially.
Probably the best thread for it. Does anyone know what this style of knife is called specifically?
I want to find a nice 60-70s camp/hunting knife like this but with stacked leather or stag grip. I have the japanese sharp kmart knife in the photo, but i want a nicer one.
It's a copy of a Marble's Knives pattern, most likely the "Expert". Marble's Knives were extremely popular at the turn of the previous century, and once the copyright expired, copycats were everywhere.
Are tantos any good or just a meme
Scissors 64
real tantos are the breasts.
fake American tantos with the idiot point are shill garbage
Ohhhhh, yeassss, grolious kneepan "steel", vewy shalp
Correct
I mean yeah, they are typically very sharp. The edge geometry and the lack of secondary bevel make japanese swords extremely sharp. You might want to consider speech therapy, i know a guy.
I work in a submarine shipyard and use my doghead kabar all the time almost daily, very useful for lashing and cutting kevlar and fire retartent cloth and fiberglass
Kabar is the best for gutting white prostitutes. Shalom.
>Not even 24609
Didn't even try for the high score
They were really good when they were $47-59, prices now are outrageous. The leather sheaths are bad and wear out, get the plastic one. The steel itself is fine, holds a decent edge. Mine is ground at a 25 degree angle. The tip is thicker than it needs to be but it's strong. The paint wears off quickly but the steel doesn't rust IMO. All in all a great knife to kill someone with and maybe do hard use chores with.
Also condition the leather handle with beeswax conditioner, makes it last way longer.
I'm a kabar fanboy and my experience is this:
They're fun and decent knives until they aren't.
I had two that lasted over 5 years of moderate to heavy use, and two other's that just bit the shit and snapped off from the handle in under a year. (one while cutting rope lel)
I only buy them on sale, and I love carrying them while doing innawoods stuff, but I'll be the first to say modernized camp/hunting knives in the same price range just work better all around.
Still gonna keep packing one for funzies though.
Ha, another Nazi uncovered and cancelled.
Elaborate like we all know wtf you're on about. Why did knife destroyer dude decide to end it all?
Judging by a few of the comments and some quick reading on Bladeforums, I'd hazard a guess that some fans of the bussy threw a tantrum that their indestructible knives weren't.
it really is a damned shame that a crazy dude who destroys knifes for fun gets doxxed because MUH brand.
Seriously hope he makes a comeback
I hope whoever blackmailed him gets raped by baboons
I use mine to chop a piece of my toothbrush and that's about it.
i carry an m3 combat knife myself, with an m2 paratrooper knife for skinning. one day i couldnt get da mower to start and cut about a half acre with my m3. great knife, 10/10