I believe it can be a great tool for prototyping and engineer shit that otherwise wasn't possible at home.
It's also a huge stepping stone for material science/mechanical engineering types. People probably learn more practical shit from 3D printers than they get from engineering degrees.
Aerospace degrees are a complete waste outside dod as cost cutting reduces civi craft to shit. Like the new not-concord has engines and intakes under the wings
>I don’t think these corpogays would invest in the high cost infrastructure if government didn’t fund it first.
It's not like there is a massive civ market for most of that shit in the first place.
>I'd rather fly in a plane designed by a nerd
Youre either talking about a pietenpol air camper or a Boing A320-7,000,000. And neither of those planes were much influenced by your Ender.
Airplanes have some unique issues compared to the stuff that tradies make. Air is not very dense so the structures end up being very big and the forces are only big in aggregate.
For example if you poke an airplane wing with your finger you already caused more damage than flying through the air at 300 mph.
So the result is that PLA/PETG is not very useful. I 3d printed some welding fixtures from ABS. But it would have been better to make it from plywood.
Also, unlike in Ender land, a mono wiener airplane structure is not intuitive. A composite wet layup feels stronger and stiffer than resin infusion, because the excess resin is making it thicker. But it doesn't contribute to the structure.
tl;dr if all u have is an Ender and intuition, you're fricked and hopeless, an hero, commit sudoku forthwith & posthaste.
ironically, everything you're are saying is correct. 3d printing is like the next iteration of Legos, like how they switched to studless construction for nXT.
However, practical building stuff doesn't substitute for an engineering degree. Most engineers are incapable of building shit, even thought they can easily come up with 100 ways to improve the existing process. And many non edu-macated people are unable to write down basic frickin' math equations that they supposed to learn in high school, even though they've been solving those equations in their head without even thinking about it.
No, you aren't. Recycling thermoplastic is a waste at individual level and you won't be able to afford a metal printer any more than a new mill or lathe. You came up with those examples to be moronic.
Agreed, even for myself, who's an Electronics engineer, it's great being able to just print cases on demand. The cad side of things takes some time to learn and depending on the printer it can be a ball ache to get right, but after a while it becomes easier.
They are killer for hobbyists and are extremely versatile. I've found a lot of old plastic electronics have a market for people who can do repairs and customs. Being able to print out and sell replacement battery doors or new cases for an original game boy has made back the price of the printer and then some.
Like all diy tools, they are a meme until you have a project.
If you need people to tell you what you can use it for, it's a meme. Otherwise being able to make plastic parts of (mostly) any shape at home is a game-changer
I just dumped my Ender 3. Looking at a Prusa and I’d like to get one with all the bells and whistles. Why should I go with a prusa if there isn’t any box/temp stabilization?
3d printing is like a using a drill. but somehow there are entire swats of people endlessly talking about their fricking 3d printer. so to answer your question. No it's not a meme. it's a tool. but 3d printing communities are a meme.
this. obsessing over 3d printers is mega autism. same as pc enthusiasts who don't actually want to play video games
What people don’t know about 3d printers is the true cost,
They need new beds, new nozzles, and replacement parts often.
So if you spend 17 hours printing a small fruit basket so you don’t have to go to the dollar store
You just paid $25+ for a less good version of that basket.
My dad didn’t understand this for the longest time when I bought him a 3d printer he was printing crap you could buy at Walmart for less than $5 and assumed it was free
>They need new beds, new nozzles, and replacement parts often.
this isn't true but the rest of your post is.
all I have to add is that all the normies larping as engineers because they own a 3d printer is cringe
No it isn't lol. Are you underage? The wear types are totally incomparable. This is the cancerous mindset of 3d printer autists. The same people who think all printers should have built-in wifi and 32bit processors.
My first printer was an Ender3 from Gearbest or bang good.
I worked full time at the time and I spent the few hours I had after work to TRY to get the bed levelled. It did not have any automatic bed levelling at that time. I had to use screws at the bottom of the print bed.
After weeks of that shit I soft of got it to print a first layer without too many holes in it.
It left me thinking that 3D printing using FDM is utter trash and a waste of time.
I started a project and I purchased a pre built MK3S+ for around 900 and it printed out of the box but it was slow as frick. The real reason why I was not 3D printing much was the time I had to endure the noise and the whole SD card thing was moronic. I started to use a rasp4 with octopi but I stopped having internet at home and only wifi hotspot from my phone so I reverted back to using SD cards which I often misplaced.
My bambu Lab A1 Mini does everything perfect. Faster than a Voron, better quality than anything on the market, I send it via WIFI, I check on it via the built in camera.
I still get a mini Voron just for the heck of it but if you want to get shit done get a Bambu.
i had 10 ender 3s at one point, I used them up, until the v-slots started showing a little bit of play, then i adjusted then so they printed accuratley again and sold them for more than i paid and kept cycling through them until i could afford my new prusa-print farm (i had like 6 prusas at one point, about 6K in 3d printers) then another $3-4k in enders and ender parts, with resin and fila-dyers
i scaled back massively and started funding a CNC setup, getting into CNC has been way way way slower and way way way more expensive.
cad software, cam software, tooling.
you crash a 3d pinter you're out a $1 nozzle and a ding in your build plate, or you need a new $20 ultem sticker for your metal build plate
you crash a cnc machine....you can frick an $8k vise, fricked a $600 end mill, probably fricked a tool holder and might have to call the haas guy.
and i had to raise my prices by tenfold for the same product.
5 months ago
Anonymous
I mainly produce carbon parts. I only use FDM printers to create moulds.
If I could afford a 3D printer sized CNC I would.
Forged Carbon has the strength a good bit above aluminum.
5 months ago
Sieg Heil
i probably should go back to 3d prtinting.
3d printing was marketing in itself.
almost like the dudes buying the product were like THIS IS 3D printed
they don't really care about billet this or billet that
machined aluminum is a trap that only dudes that make shit fall in love with the average stacy doesn't give a frick, they think 3d printed parts are better than traditionally machined components
5 months ago
Anonymous
Post pics of your $8k vise
Also post pics of your $600 endmills
Enclosures and plastic parts that don't require much wear. I'm planning on printing a toggle switch that stays toggled on the up and middle positions, and is a spring-tensioned momentary switch when I press it down.
mine started out like that, but as my design patterns have shifted to embrace the fact I have the thing, it stays busy more. I want to get into lost pla aluminum casting, and that should really make a lot of interesting this possible. Doing one off castings for housings with all sorts of mounting bosses would be faster than machining from bulk.
I think it is going to be great in that your prints are prototypes, then scaled, reprinted, and become the core of the mold.
What people don’t know about 3d printers is the true cost,
They need new beds, new nozzles, and replacement parts often.
So if you spend 17 hours printing a small fruit basket so you don’t have to go to the dollar store
You just paid $25+ for a less good version of that basket.
My dad didn’t understand this for the longest time when I bought him a 3d printer he was printing crap you could buy at Walmart for less than $5 and assumed it was free
>They need new beds, new nozzles, and replacement parts often. >So if you spend 17 hours printing a small fruit basket so you don’t have to go to the dollar store >You just paid $25+ for a less good version of that basket.
stop buying nozzles for 1$ a piece, i have printed over 400h with my current nozzle and it still is fine (though I don't print abrasive material, only ABS/ASA some PLA), same for the bed. My printer now has all in all over 1500h on it and I did the first larger maintenance, with cleaning, relubricating rails and checking screws tightness and belts.
And you should use it for parts that you don't fricking get in store, thats the whole point of the printers.
are you a literal Black person who can't take care of their tools? my glass bed was like $2 at a local glass shop and it's lasted me for over two years so far because i'm not a toddler with butter fingers. nozzles are cheap as frick and last for well over 300 hours with standard PLA+. sounds like you just have a massive skill issue
3d printing was shit at first, but things are moving along. the one i have is slow as frick, especially compared to this year's offerings, but it's fine for what it is.
rapid prototyping. custom enclosures. handy dandy things that you need but that you'd never find anywhere else other than your imagination.
1. I have a cheap grinder at work. I needed a holder for it where I could stow the handle, the chuck key, and a handful of bits, and it had to fit precisely on the lip of a shelf I already had installed, in a specific location, because the shelf was already full of shit that couldn't be moved because of work flow. The grinder didn't come with a holder of any type, and the manufacturer doesn't offer one.
2. I have a Wiha 18-bit precision screwdriver, and a Wowstick 64-bit. I wanted a caddy that held both drivers, all the combined bits, and all the little extras that each came with. I drew up a 5-tiered holder with space for 100 4mm hex-shank bits (or 1/4 inch or whatever they are), the bit magnetizer, extensions, and a little bin with magnets underneath it to hold any miscellaneous screws that might come along.
3. I made sets of corner- and edge-clamp hold downs for blank FR4 sheets so that I can load them into my CNC router and cut circuit boards without fricking around with other types of clamps or double-sided tape or whatever.
The holder took 1/2 hour to draw up, and 1.5hrs to print. The bit holder took about 4 hours to draw up and get right, and 9 hrs to print. The clamps were 10 minutes in cad and 1 hour to print 4 complete sets of them.
1. i have never seen a grinder being sold without a plastic case that holds these bits and bobs. a single nail on the side of the shelf to hold the handle of the case would replace the 3d print.
2. whats wrong with keeping the in the original packaging
3. fair... are they sturdy enough? ive had a bad experience with 3d printed clamps (layer separation)
1. It did come with a plastic case to hold the bits, as well as a variety of other things. I made a hanger that fits in one specific location on a shelf, which holds the chick key as well as my most used bits. That plastic case sits in a drawer, while my hanger is well within reach when needed while I sit at my bench and do work.
2. The original packaging was two separate packages, as it was two different sets of 4mm precision bits. Now it's one package, and all right within reach, with every bot I have easily identifiable at a glance while I work.
3. They do the job. It's a consumable, because you'll eventually smack into it with an end mill or whatever. But you just stick one at each of 4 corners (of a 12x12 shheet) and the ones for the sides probably aren't needed. The only advantage e.g., double-sided tape, has over it is when you're cutting multiple small boards out of one sheet. But if you just do tabs and manually cut the boards from the array it's a moot point.
sry forgot to add the grinder is one of these. that's also why i needed a separate hanger to hold the handpiece and the extras.
i also have a harbor freight/chicago electric rotary that lives in its OEM plastic case. But the plastic case that came with pic related is maybe the size of like 2 packs of cigarettes side by side.
In doing an engine swap in a cj5, I 3d printed a lot of parts for the new hvac ducts inside the dash. The engine mounts themselves were 3d prints (with the engine on a jack) to get the geometry close before iterating a few times in steel. That saved a lot of work.
I use mine to print lil brackets and boxes and etc. that I would nornally make out of wood but it's winter and I don't want to go outside to use my power tools.
i have done lot of useful shit like >car parts >cases for shit >some small plastic parts to make things work again
its pretty great if you know how to make 3d models, otherwise you are on others mercy
its a step up from dicking around with wood and sheet meatal, for "every day items" and "replacement parts" its not too great. but other than that it will print out frick-o pops and landfill tugboats for updoots on reddit just fine
Found out what a funko pop was like a month ago bosses kid came into work and showed me his Pokémon. Can't remember which it was but from back when I was a kid starter like a charmander or squirtel or something like that. Number one, I'm surprised kids (he's maybe 9ish) are still into Pokémon, but same time those video games were top tier. However, what was really shocking to me was that you fricks were talking about them like a full year before the kid showed me one and acting like it's a thing for adults. I thought funko pop was similar to like the hipster record player thing some music thing I didn't know about. Funk music and pop music figured it was something like that but like always internet makes up a gay word for it and that makes it popular.
Kid told me about how he'd gotten into arguments with other kids about who saw it first who grabbed it first. Adults don't do this shit it's the same as when we were kids.
Plenty of adults buy funcopops, there's a big overlap with the soiboi consoooomers that buy up all their favourite pop culture recerence figures and stand them all on a shelf pretending that trash is actually nice to look at.
At least the collectorgays who collect dolls and action figures get figures that actually look like who they're intended to be, and have details like textured clothing and such
Take something like reloading. I can make practically any part but the shell plate for a dillon reloader's caliber conversion kits. When my 20 year old 1050 had some plastic parts crack I just modeled them back up and made new ones in no time.
Single purpose storage that fits into convenient places, for instance. On my cnc machine I have handy storage slots for parts like the joystick and touch probe.
All the little specialty brackets, mounts, adapters, gears and things you make add up pretty quick. I repaired some kitchen drawer slides I couldn't find replacements for and saved about $30 each for instance.
It can be a meme but is totally great when used intelligently.
Stuff like slides, battery covers or ammo press conversion kits are limited 3d printed parts don’t do great with repeated compression cycles, rubbing against harder materials over and over again, and don’t have a super high fatigue failure rate
So like battery covers with the little b***h you dig with your mail to compress and remove wont last long
They do great as organizational items though. If you marketed a 3d printer as a custom organizer insert maker then it would sell to the masses easily
99.9% of 3d printing is toys…. Drone kits, rc airplane kits, crappy knock offs of pocket hole jigs and crappy guns to generate media attention and make money off the clicks
How so? My best designs just use the strengths of how the layers are laid down to hold stuff
That isn’t super positionally accurate
Like I wouldn’t do a bearing holder for something spinning up to 10k rpm I’d machine that out of tool steel or aluminum and anodize
But if I want something to hold my sockets and be magnetic I’ll print that
A lot of people that argue with me on shit like that don’t even have 3d printers they just fantasize or “plan” what they want to do with them
So if I’m wrong post something you made that doesn’t hold anything and has an impact rated design sustaining multiple impacts over a long period of time
My harbor freight grinder from 2003 came in a brown cardboard box that said item#321458 or whatever and 3” grinder in sharpie
Never came with a case or bits or anything
Wrench came separate blades came separately
>Sieg Heil of the BMW and shrink-to-fit Levis fame circa 2008 or some bullshit
the fact that you bought beard man's printers is the least surprising thing that's ever been typed. you could have just not said anything and it would have been assumed.
>I guarantee you it’s nicer than all the printers of every poster in this thread combined >assuming things on the internet.
Surefire way to make yourself look like a moron.
Prusas are overpriced nowadays, they are good but for private ownership there are cheaper ones that deliver similar quality and ease of use, that's also the reason prusa looks more and more into commercial costumer's.
Funny enough I was on a fence preordering a XL, but glad I want with a Voron (which I built early 22), better community and lots of things you can do yourself, on a proven platform.
If you do a kit build and stick with ABS and don't care about >muh accels then there's a great amount of resources which will take you to the absolute heights. You'll be selling themed octopuses to restaurants, highly accurate scale models of anally-cavitating torpedoes to idiots who set up little displays at trade shows, etc. It's all documented, from basic setup to some wine-tasting bourgeoise bullshit for calibrating your extrusion multipliers.
However if you want the full immersion experience you could also try to scratch-build. I also implemented many modifications which I thought of myself, which also improved my immersion.
In terms of overall experience I would compare it to living the entire day to day life of a starving orphaned African child who survived for several years in obscurity before shitting to death from a water borne illness. The combination of 80C chamber temps, ABS parts, beta Tap and Rapido, caused so many issues I actually gave up 3d printing because I had to fix it so often. I've printed several ABS parts since, a bit of artifacts because the belts are cable tied, but dimensionally accurate, no warping, good strength. I'm not in the same room as the printer and I don't watch the first layers or do any of that bullshit. I just log on, set bed to 110, come back in an hour and hit print.
6 months ago
Anonymous
In retrospect, my Voron build was more frustrating and more difficult than my CNC milling machine, which I also scratch-built.
It was also less accomplishment because ABS parts are not very impressive compared to aluminum ones. And I was expecting it to be easy and it wasn't. The reason for the difficulty was due to the higher temperatures. Vorons are based around Print it Forward & ABS parts which all went to shit. Things which didn't go to shit immediately, went to shit after weeks or months of somewhat normally working. If you push the chambers temperatures past 80C you will frick yourself. The good news is, I already fricked myself once so at least i have experience. Also, if you buy the kit and don't have to do the wiring harnesses yourself, it will be a lot faster.
at least it somehow magically works perfectly now, minus the cosmetic banding issues which are not represented in this picture because I printed this a long time ago back when it had different issues.
6 months ago
Anonymous
>kit build
nope, self sourced, printed, though the panels are bought since they are actually composite aluminium plates, way better then the ones recommended from the BOM.
https://i.imgur.com/RJRkGoR.jpg
In retrospect, my Voron build was more frustrating and more difficult than my CNC milling machine, which I also scratch-built.
It was also less accomplishment because ABS parts are not very impressive compared to aluminum ones. And I was expecting it to be easy and it wasn't. The reason for the difficulty was due to the higher temperatures. Vorons are based around Print it Forward & ABS parts which all went to shit. Things which didn't go to shit immediately, went to shit after weeks or months of somewhat normally working. If you push the chambers temperatures past 80C you will frick yourself. The good news is, I already fricked myself once so at least i have experience. Also, if you buy the kit and don't have to do the wiring harnesses yourself, it will be a lot faster.
at least it somehow magically works perfectly now, minus the cosmetic banding issues which are not represented in this picture because I printed this a long time ago back when it had different issues.
>chambers temperatures past 80C
never was designed for that, you are a moron for even trying. Vorons are for around 50-60°C chamber temp, which is plenty fine for most ABS variants, and if you don't get some bog standard cheap ABS from the 90s and some of the more recent consumer friendly ABS types you get away with way lower chamber temps.
Heck there aren't even consumer parts that are spec'd to run beyond 80°C, because thats the limit they run for, you'd had to get into automotive parts to get extended temperature ranges
High temperature printing is a thing on its own and there is a reason why there are specialized printers for it, that haven't made it the hobbits world with the exception of a few selfbuilts/mods that are basically just proof of concept and run into the same problems you ran.
6 months ago
Anonymous
>never was designed for that, you are a moron for even trying. >you get away with way lower chamber temps
The voron design is free hardware, so my voron can be designed for whatever the frick I want. Also, there are cosmetic and structural advantages to printing ABS at 80C; ACM and acrylic both have terrible thermal insulating properties; and you clearly don't haven't done any research on what you're talking about because you just regurgitated some bullshit somebody has already said before. >run into the same problems you ran
No they don't, I only mentioned one problem, which is that the ABS parts creep at high temps. >there aren't even consumer parts that are spec'd to run beyond 80°C,
What the frick does this even mean? Where did you learn this or even check these specs?
There's now a vendor stocking metal MGN endcaps, which fails at ~120C, which is one of the actual problems that they >ran into. There's more than one person that did all of this stuff, you're just trying to retroactively define reality in order to justify your ignorance.
But yeah the 2.4 is supposedly a really bad HT platform. The Trident is more popular due to reasons
6 months ago
Anonymous
>What the frick does this even mean? Where did you learn this or even check these specs?
you are really restarted, consumer electronics are usually rated for up to 80°C (well even less as it turns out general limits are even lower)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Operating_temperature
and thats what you have in your fricking chamber, ranging from the ICs on the fricking canbus interface you are using to the stepper motors (most of the ones you get are rated for 130°C (at 50°C ambient) to the fricking fans.
>The voron design is free hardware, so my voron can be designed for whatever the frick I want
yeah but not how it was designed by the people who actually made it, taking a design that's not made for temperatures going past 60°C and expecting it to go beyond that is a moronic decision only by you.
https://docs.vorondesign.com/sourcing.html >Chamber Heating >There are a few reasons Voron does not and will not support active chamber heating: >It is not necessary to use a chamber heater to achieve sufficient chamber temperatures for ABS or other common 3D printing materials. >...
>Exotic Materials (PEEK, PEI, etc.) >While Vorons are designed to be enclosed, chamber temperatures generally do not exceed 50-60C. This is perfect for printing ABS and most Nylon and PC blends, but it is insufficient for exotic materials such as PEEK and PEI which require 100-130C chamber temperatures. >While the jump from 60C to 100C may not sound like a lot, most of the parts in your Voron printer will fail before 100C including: all of the 3D printed components, stepper motors, Gates belt, linear bearings, linear rail end caps, inductive probe, acrylic, and ABS panels, fans…
in short you are full of shit.
6 months ago
Anonymous
>yeah but not how it was designed by the people who actually made it,
That's me. It's mine. I actually made my Voron and I designed it. If I wanted to I could even sell my design on Etsy or Ebay. That's what it means to be free and to have like freedom and shit. >the ICs on the fricking canbus interface
The canbus boards like the ones you bought are a known bad quantity, and they overheat easily. People already tried this and documented this. (Most of my information comes from the Annex builders discord; they have USB C connectors at the toolhead but idk what serial protocol it uses.)
I used mil spec PTFE wire which somebody donated to my hackerspace. no ICs or serial devices in the build chamber, except for the temperature sensors I added. >the stepper motors
they have water cooled jackets and heatsinks but they also sell higher temp steppers (LDO) and they are very resistant to begin with. not an issue.
>sufficient chamber temperatures
it's not about sufficient, it's about ideal. see my pic.
The voron devs can decide what you're allowed to talk about on the official discord and forums, because they have to moderate and be responsible for idiots. However, they didn't design my voron and they wouldn't know enough about it to design it anyway. >Gates belt
they're actually wrong about this. They sell high-temp belts (check fabreeko) but the Annex builders said the regular GT2s work fine at 120C. >linear bearings, inductive probe
not present (though beacon probe supposedly works at 120C) >end caps
addressed already in previous post >acrylic and ABS
not present >fans
obviously, this depends on the fan.
>in short you are full of shit
did you actually drill that bed according to the plans or did you just buy one already made?
6 months ago
Anonymous
>I actually made my Voron and I designed it
no you didn't you modified an existing design, since vorons are open source You are like a chink company, claiming to make products and all they do is use open source stuff, add some (often moronic addons) and call it "their new product", you are the same.
Show me your contribution to the github.
>The voron devs can decide what you're allowed to talk about on the official discord and forums, because they have to moderate and be responsible for idiots. However, they didn't design my voron and they wouldn't know enough about it to design it anyway.
and here we go again, you designed nothing, designing means coming up with with things like the flying gantry DESIGN, the whole extruder design (clockwork 1 + 2, m4 and jetpack).
You modified their design to suit your needs, nothing more, you still use the flying gantry design, still use their corex/y design for the gantry. electronics bay at the bottom, even using the standard z-idlers... All you did was replacing some parts on the hotend, added some fans and put another extruder on it.
meanwhile there are actual people who modify the design of the voron (https://github.com/FrankenVoron/DoomCube-2) far further with higher chamber temps in mid, like the doom cube, by making it double it basically double insulated, and relocating the electronics to suffer less from heat yet they still stay below 80°C.
Also have fun with hotend heat crep with 80°C+ chamber temp, the single 40/50mm fan wont to shit against that.
6 months ago
Anonymous
>claiming to make products and all they do is use open source stuff
actually dumbass I claimed I could sell my design as a Voron because that's the defining feature of the license.
>like the doom cube
doom cube has actually quite bad thermal performance for the size increase. they did it that way so that it could be see-though.
>you designed nothing
u projecting bruh,
you didn't cut your frame extrusions, paid you someone to do it for you;
you didn't drill the bed;
you didn't build the printer following the instructions; you ASSEMBLED it
when you scratch-build something you build it from the stock material. What you did is a KIT BUILD.
pic related; it's a prototype of something I DESIGNED. (*my design was based on trailhead but it's still my design. can of worms. free hardware. your an idiot.)
6 months ago
Anonymous
>you didn't build the printer following the instructions >instructions
I meant plans
sage
5 months ago
Anonymous
you didn't made your own aluminium extrusion
you didn't made your own aluminum plate
you didn't make your own electronics
alls you did was cut down and assembled according to plans.
Son you are a weak troll or a complete moron.
5 months ago
Anonymous
>t. the shittiest and most envious dad
5 months ago
Anonymous
>aluminum plate can be used to make a variety of devices and structures across countless fields collectively representing a large chunk of cumulative human progress in the sciences; >a voron kit can be used to make a voron
now u know the differences
6 months ago
Anonymous
>You are like a chink company, >Show me your contribution to the github
I literally presented pictographic evidence of conducting original research
when people complain about knockoff products, it's because of a lack of R&D >relocating the electronics to suffer less from heat
boyo do you know which way hot air goes? they put it on top so you could access the electronics easier. when you have a large printer it's a b***h to flip it on its back all the time time. >the absolute state of anon in 2023
6 months ago
Anonymous
also check out this pic I found on my hard drive; a real classic. 3dxtech can't even properly spec their own filaments' printing temperatures, yet they somehow pulled this gem out of their ass.
Anyway it gets the point across, namely, that your wrong, stupid and gay.sage
>kit build
nope, self sourced, printed, though the panels are bought since they are actually composite aluminium plates, way better then the ones recommended from the BOM.
[...] >chambers temperatures past 80C
never was designed for that, you are a moron for even trying. Vorons are for around 50-60°C chamber temp, which is plenty fine for most ABS variants, and if you don't get some bog standard cheap ABS from the 90s and some of the more recent consumer friendly ABS types you get away with way lower chamber temps.
Heck there aren't even consumer parts that are spec'd to run beyond 80°C, because thats the limit they run for, you'd had to get into automotive parts to get extended temperature ranges
High temperature printing is a thing on its own and there is a reason why there are specialized printers for it, that haven't made it the hobbits world with the exception of a few selfbuilts/mods that are basically just proof of concept and run into the same problems you ran.
>derpa herpa Ramalama Dingdong idlers herpa derpa
hmmm... let's see son, where did you get those G6 pins from?
did you order the stock and cut it down just like it says to in the readme?
or, did you go to yeezy 3d dot com and add "three screws in a box" to your shopping cart? >herpa derpa misturr west cut two rods for me plz, i gib monis... oh thank u mr west.. teehee.. i build printer myself teehee... see? no kit build here, teehee... >lmao u did nothing teehee, you just buy from China, teehee!
Good thing sieg is here-- I ain't supposed to be beating up high schoolers without at least one old person being present.
If you do a kit build and stick with ABS and don't care about >muh accels then there's a great amount of resources which will take you to the absolute heights. You'll be selling themed octopuses to restaurants, highly accurate scale models of anally-cavitating torpedoes to idiots who set up little displays at trade shows, etc. It's all documented, from basic setup to some wine-tasting bourgeoise bullshit for calibrating your extrusion multipliers.
However if you want the full immersion experience you could also try to scratch-build. I also implemented many modifications which I thought of myself, which also improved my immersion.
In terms of overall experience I would compare it to living the entire day to day life of a starving orphaned African child who survived for several years in obscurity before shitting to death from a water borne illness. The combination of 80C chamber temps, ABS parts, beta Tap and Rapido, caused so many issues I actually gave up 3d printing because I had to fix it so often. I've printed several ABS parts since, a bit of artifacts because the belts are cable tied, but dimensionally accurate, no warping, good strength. I'm not in the same room as the printer and I don't watch the first layers or do any of that bullshit. I just log on, set bed to 110, come back in an hour and hit print.
https://i.imgur.com/RJRkGoR.jpg
In retrospect, my Voron build was more frustrating and more difficult than my CNC milling machine, which I also scratch-built.
It was also less accomplishment because ABS parts are not very impressive compared to aluminum ones. And I was expecting it to be easy and it wasn't. The reason for the difficulty was due to the higher temperatures. Vorons are based around Print it Forward & ABS parts which all went to shit. Things which didn't go to shit immediately, went to shit after weeks or months of somewhat normally working. If you push the chambers temperatures past 80C you will frick yourself. The good news is, I already fricked myself once so at least i have experience. Also, if you buy the kit and don't have to do the wiring harnesses yourself, it will be a lot faster.
at least it somehow magically works perfectly now, minus the cosmetic banding issues which are not represented in this picture because I printed this a long time ago back when it had different issues.
Is there a good kit printer for stingy noobs like me or would it be better to just stick to the latest creality Ender 3 Vwhateverthefrick?
I don't mind tinkering a bit to get better results but I want to keep my first machine as cheap as possible
5 months ago
Anonymous
Haven't look explicitly into it, but I am hearing the magic phoenix kits are supposed to be quite good for the price. LDO kits are supposed to be "best quality" for kits but come at a price.
I don't recommend it as your first machine, you need some understanding of the basics and if you haven't built anything on your own you will run into walls quite often.
The thing is, a voron is not cheap, especially if you do upgrade later on. They are fine as is and need some tweaking, but once dialed in they deliver good quality. But as designed, its an ABS/ASA machine, people who print PLA with them and complain about overhangs/not enough cooling should kill themselves.
From the current market the Bambo machines have the best price/performance if you want a corexy machine. If you are looking into a cartesian bed slinger aka ender 3 alike, you maybe try to look into sovol. Their SV6/07 work out of the box, have decent features and the 07 runs klipper (which many of the selfbuilt/kits run with)
The reason why I won't buy a bed slinger anymore is mostly space reasons, by design bed slingers need more space and are also restricted in speed more (due to the moving bed/mass). They still deliver good prints and run around 200-250 USD, which is not much to get your feet wet with 3d printing.
Could go for an bambo A1, but its 200-300 bux more for just a bit more convenience. Personally I don't like the approach of bambo, to much apple vibe: closed eco system, going for the same "it just werks" style, including the cloud where you basically relinquish your designs to bambo aka china.
5 months ago
Sieg
All this research and shit to memorize to get into hot glue extrusion.
If you spent half the time not chasing Chinese crap to overcome problems and save a buck you might have more personality than look at this slinky dragon I printed up
I have a mk4 with a carton box over it, i'm afraid the petg parts might be getting soft at 42 celsius. Good thing i'm going to replace it with a voron.
>don’t do great with repeated compression cycles, rubbing against harder materials over and over
Just insert some carbon or fiber or planes for Teflon etc washers, do countersink for bearings or joints etc.
>I know you’re not into 3d printing but this is getting into the weeds the way they work is depsit little layers and smush it onto the previous
I do mjf sla fdm abs nylon 3D cad etc etc up to decade now. Hard 2 see from a few sentences I think.
if you just want to make landfill shit to gather dust on a shelf, yes it's a meme
if you're an actual PrepHoleer who wants to design and produce custom parts then nothing compares
i quit using my 3d printer when i found put i can make a lot of stuff from plastic/wood/metal scraps and other tools without having to draw it out on a computer and wait for it to print.
i file a piece of plastic to shape in half the time it takes to design it in CAD, and solid plastic is sturdier as well compared to getting layer separation if designed wrong.
i do like concrete printers for buildings to. i start at a local startup company that makes them printers next march
3d printing is neat but there's a lot of downsides to extrusion based plastic manufacturing. There's a reason like 95% of all plastics are made via injection molding. Consider it a tool for prototypes.
3d print nerds can't get away from 3d printing either. Like they either can't grasp the concept that there are better non plastic materials or better methods of manufacturing as a whole. Again it's neat but holy frick are some of the people autistic. Why 3D print bolts/nuts when I can get something infinitely stronger in steel?
>Why 3D print bolts/nuts when I can get something infinitely stronger in steel?
I printed out the nut and bolt that attaches to the toilet lid. I didn't have washers larger than M6 and anyway you don't want to use steel, because it'll cause the ceramic to crack. By the time I went to the motherfricking Home Despot, I already forgot about that whole thing.
You oversimplify. Threads print out really well and the bolt or nut is either niche or the thing you're replacing is some janky-ass one cent hose clamp. The real issue is people making simple structural stuff like brackets which wobbles like a motherfricker and they don't notice, don't care, or think wood and metal are old-fashioned, they think anything made out of plywood is going to burn down or spontaneously combust, or they think that filament with carbon fiber floor sweeping dust is the panacea.
I used to also think that everything 3d printed could only be used temporarily like construction scaffolding, and you always had to pretend that you were going to eventually replace all of the 3d parts even if it was like a TV remote or some shit. However, I changed my mind about that once I printed a bunch of ABS stuff.
>christian malcontent requiring me to get off my computer chair and do shit >type his ludicrous claims into Ask Jeeves search engine >it even has free delivery
you're are right, I suck wieners and I'm gay plus, I've been shitting in the vicinity of this PLA bolt that now contains a substantial diversity of bacteria secreted away in the FDM folds which I probably have to touch at some point.
god damn it
At least you see the humor in it. Nothing against 3d printing, it's cool, just silly for most things you can actually purchase at an already cheap price
leave me alone MOM, I print out risky stuff all the time, for example, custom electronics enclosures out of regular (non flame tested) filament. The question is, does the comparative risks are outweighed by the reward.
go trim your navel hair or something
If you're a nerd with over 9000 hobbies, 3DP is the best 9002nd hobby one could start, because it augments the other hobbies.
I enjoy printing out replacement parts to replace exceedingly expensive proprietary photography widgets needed for astrophotography, inventions, and goofy things for my train sets.
As others have said, it's a really good way to force yourself to learn CAD, and it's perfect for building prototypes.
Anyone who makes their own shit should have a cheap 3d printer. You put in the work at the beginning tuning and learning the quirks of your printer and leave it until you find the perfect stl for some one off part you need and let it print while you work on something else.
If you're spending more time finetuning perfect layers than functional printing you're doing it wrong. If you expect it to pay itself off in x days you're doing it wrong. If you're sitting in front of the printer watching for print errors you're doing it wrong.
Mine was $200 plus an extra $100 or so in peripheral parts like a webcam and enclosure. Once or twice a month I find or think of something I can print and more often than not I find an stl online that does the job.
Yes, most people just use it for toys and stupid figures, which is a terrible use for it. If you wanna tinker and build shit theres a bit of a learning curve with fusion or solidtwerks, but it's worth it.
The plastic is of crap quality. Sure prototype something before getting it made to last. Or cast it yourself using scrap aluminum, plaster, epoxy etc.
I don't get the hair pulling with guys trying to make something for production out of PLA? Use the right tools for the job!
There was a 3d printer youtuber that said “most people that buy 3d printers, get excited about the new toy then print toys they wouldn’t buy at the dollar store, and never look at them again”
It’s so true, how many benchies, pootin poop emjois and fidget toys are on office desks of puffy white dudes working office jobs that tell everyone they have a 3d printer
Yes, most people just use it for toys and stupid figures, which is a terrible use for it. If you wanna tinker and build shit theres a bit of a learning curve with fusion or solidtwerks, but it's worth it.
People can't just enjoy 3d printing for the sake of it? Why the gatekeeping?
The amount of times I had a consumer product and was like damn I wish I had a more expensive, fragile,hollow one of these that melts in direct sunlight and takes 6+ hours to create was exactly zero
>>is the most important tech development of the last 20 years a meme?
3D printers are a tool. Like any other tool, its usefulness is based on the skill and talent of the operator and the task at hand.
It's about as much of a meme as taking up any other hobby around making things when you can get the same shit for pennies from china regardless of the material.
The utility of 3d printing isn't just the flexibility of production, but its ability to be recycled and decentralize manufacturing. Most products volume is the plastic shell. Imagine if China could fit 10x as many parts kits for items on a ship, then the shells are printed and assembled domestically?
Separate kit packaging would often have greater bulk due to having to control things like PC boards and other loose parts so they don't bash each other in transit. Recycling is mostly greenwashing which is valid.
Lost PLA casting is not a meme, it's a game changer. Anyone could make any part they want with a large enough printer/foundry, and access to machine tools to finish them.
3d printing is the best tool in the shop because
you can make anything with close to 0 effort.
making stuff with literally any other process will take 5x more man hours unironically.
I spend more time assembling stuff than I do designing it
It's a good way to make smaller parts. They are both more capable than most people think and less universal than most people think. A lot of stupid people print stupid things that make no sense to print like this here shoe, but at the same time people really underestimate engineering plastics, and even some of the non-engineering stuff like PETG.
I use it to learn cad and 3d printing, then making plastic parts for my motorcycle, next will be custom parts for other projects. The key is to get started to learn how, then you can find uses for it you did not think of before.
We have like 4 printers at work, 1 being anycubic resin printer the rest is voron 2.4 and some 2 smaller ones. We constantly print with the filament ones stuff thats actually used in production enviroment. Resin one is used way less, mainly for prototyping because of how brittle the prints are. So i wouldnt say its a meme really.
Hasn’t the 3d printing phase died out by now? I thought you couldn’t make money from 3d printing anymore due to printers being cheap nowadays, so what are people doing with them?
Printing Bambu Lab mini Spools using Prusament PETG on a Bambu Lab A1 Mini at 166% speed in Ludacris mode, 4mm Nozzle @0.20mm Layerheight using the standard Bambu PETG filament profile in 1h 30m per spool half.
My MK3S+ prints it in 2h using a 0.8mm nozzle @ 0.56mm Layerheight.
I tried Bambu PLA, PLA CF and Prusa silver PLA and they all can print at 166% speed for the first layer but they tear holes into the print or string after the first layer. Bambu PLA at 125% speed is okay.
The only Filament that prints perfectly and looks slick like an eel is Prusament PETG.
Its odd because using the standard print and filament settings PETG is always the slowest but Prusament PETG seems to be the best performing high speed filament.
I also found 5 year old no brand Chinese PLA+ that I got from eBay 5 years ago and that I unwrapped and just left exposed to air.
I was able to print at 50% and the print (spool) was perfect, stunning quality like injection moulded but it took 3hours per spool half and that material is rock hard. I guess they mixed in ABS or something.
Unless Prusa gets out a Core-X-Y printer that can compete with the speed of the bambu I predict Prusa will either go bust or become a filament only producer.
I really like their filament and prefer it. How fast can you guys print a mini spool?
Im referring to the A1 mini version here:
1h 30min flawless PETG high speed print at 166% speed.
Normal speed was 3h 15min.
Also bambu A1 mini cleans the nozzle against a steel grid and rubber pad before printing, nozzle pressure, flow rate, bed height sensing during printing and its using linear rails. Its not just muh wifi it’s everything together that blows away any voron or prusa. I feel silly having bought a prusa mk3s+ and it’s embarrassing how prusa made 250 Million dollars but slept and forgot to keep up with core X Y
If prusa was smart they would offer accelerometer based input shaping kklippwr upgrade kits via USB without the need to replace the 8 bit computer for 150 bucks.
That would save their reputation if they match the A1 mini in speed
I decided to use my prusa mk3s+ only with a 0.8mm nozzle for structural parts with PETG that i print over night.
Otherwise literally useless for prototyping because its too rough at 0.8mm @0.56mm LH and not even usefull to test fit perhaps only to check proportions or general shape.
What is the best CAD software that allows you to specify the real world size of an object? I have played around with Openscad and whatever software each printer came along but they were lacking in this specific area.
no, but poor quality shit-posting is
I believe it can be a great tool for prototyping and engineer shit that otherwise wasn't possible at home.
It's also a huge stepping stone for material science/mechanical engineering types. People probably learn more practical shit from 3D printers than they get from engineering degrees.
It's not perfect tho.
>. People probably learn more practical shit from 3D printers than they get from engineering degrees.
This. I'd rather fly in a plane designed by a nerd who has an ender in his basement than one designed by a graduate of MIT, Stanford, whatever.
Aerospace degrees are a complete waste outside dod as cost cutting reduces civi craft to shit. Like the new not-concord has engines and intakes under the wings
>half mexican
>/pol/gay
>get aerospace engineering degree to design missiles for sending brown people to hell
I’d agree with your statement though. I don’t think these corpogays would invest in the high cost infrastructure if government didn’t fund it first.
>I don’t think these corpogays would invest in the high cost infrastructure if government didn’t fund it first.
It's not like there is a massive civ market for most of that shit in the first place.
>I'd rather fly in a plane designed by a nerd
Youre either talking about a pietenpol air camper or a Boing A320-7,000,000. And neither of those planes were much influenced by your Ender.
Airplanes have some unique issues compared to the stuff that tradies make. Air is not very dense so the structures end up being very big and the forces are only big in aggregate.
For example if you poke an airplane wing with your finger you already caused more damage than flying through the air at 300 mph.
So the result is that PLA/PETG is not very useful. I 3d printed some welding fixtures from ABS. But it would have been better to make it from plywood.
Also, unlike in Ender land, a mono wiener airplane structure is not intuitive. A composite wet layup feels stronger and stiffer than resin infusion, because the excess resin is making it thicker. But it doesn't contribute to the structure.
tl;dr if all u have is an Ender and intuition, you're fricked and hopeless, an hero, commit sudoku forthwith & posthaste.
The level of cope is palpable.
Anon is trolling.
Got him! DEEZ NUTS
ironically, everything you're are saying is correct. 3d printing is like the next iteration of Legos, like how they switched to studless construction for nXT.
However, practical building stuff doesn't substitute for an engineering degree. Most engineers are incapable of building shit, even thought they can easily come up with 100 ways to improve the existing process. And many non edu-macated people are unable to write down basic frickin' math equations that they supposed to learn in high school, even though they've been solving those equations in their head without even thinking about it.
I'm waiting for either a way to recycle old plastic material into it as fuel or a printer for metals.
Doesn't that already exist?
No, you aren't. Recycling thermoplastic is a waste at individual level and you won't be able to afford a metal printer any more than a new mill or lathe. You came up with those examples to be moronic.
Agreed, even for myself, who's an Electronics engineer, it's great being able to just print cases on demand. The cad side of things takes some time to learn and depending on the printer it can be a ball ache to get right, but after a while it becomes easier.
They are killer for hobbyists and are extremely versatile. I've found a lot of old plastic electronics have a market for people who can do repairs and customs. Being able to print out and sell replacement battery doors or new cases for an original game boy has made back the price of the printer and then some.
Like all diy tools, they are a meme until you have a project.
>print something useful
>it warps and delayers by sunshine
ASA
Ah frick, now I need to buy some ASA.
moron
Stop buying cheap filament.
If you need people to tell you what you can use it for, it's a meme. Otherwise being able to make plastic parts of (mostly) any shape at home is a game-changer
They’re okay I have several thousand dollars in the prusa. Rand ones sitting ide most of the time now
3d printers need to work with thermo plastics meaning very limited use cases for real world items that arent trinkets
I just dumped my Ender 3. Looking at a Prusa and I’d like to get one with all the bells and whistles. Why should I go with a prusa if there isn’t any box/temp stabilization?
I don’t give a shit about how you spend your neetbux you gay
3d printing is like a using a drill. but somehow there are entire swats of people endlessly talking about their fricking 3d printer. so to answer your question. No it's not a meme. it's a tool. but 3d printing communities are a meme.
this. obsessing over 3d printers is mega autism. same as pc enthusiasts who don't actually want to play video games
>They need new beds, new nozzles, and replacement parts often.
this isn't true but the rest of your post is.
all I have to add is that all the normies larping as engineers because they own a 3d printer is cringe
thats like saying your nissan altima doesn't require oil changes, it absolutely does it's just that your shit is poorly maintained
No it isn't lol. Are you underage? The wear types are totally incomparable. This is the cancerous mindset of 3d printer autists. The same people who think all printers should have built-in wifi and 32bit processors.
Sieg is a moronic full-time troll who's spends his days gagging on the fat in his neck, don't bother engaging with it.
My first printer was an Ender3 from Gearbest or bang good.
I worked full time at the time and I spent the few hours I had after work to TRY to get the bed levelled. It did not have any automatic bed levelling at that time. I had to use screws at the bottom of the print bed.
After weeks of that shit I soft of got it to print a first layer without too many holes in it.
It left me thinking that 3D printing using FDM is utter trash and a waste of time.
I started a project and I purchased a pre built MK3S+ for around 900 and it printed out of the box but it was slow as frick. The real reason why I was not 3D printing much was the time I had to endure the noise and the whole SD card thing was moronic. I started to use a rasp4 with octopi but I stopped having internet at home and only wifi hotspot from my phone so I reverted back to using SD cards which I often misplaced.
My bambu Lab A1 Mini does everything perfect. Faster than a Voron, better quality than anything on the market, I send it via WIFI, I check on it via the built in camera.
I still get a mini Voron just for the heck of it but if you want to get shit done get a Bambu.
i had 10 ender 3s at one point, I used them up, until the v-slots started showing a little bit of play, then i adjusted then so they printed accuratley again and sold them for more than i paid and kept cycling through them until i could afford my new prusa-print farm (i had like 6 prusas at one point, about 6K in 3d printers) then another $3-4k in enders and ender parts, with resin and fila-dyers
i scaled back massively and started funding a CNC setup, getting into CNC has been way way way slower and way way way more expensive.
cad software, cam software, tooling.
you crash a 3d pinter you're out a $1 nozzle and a ding in your build plate, or you need a new $20 ultem sticker for your metal build plate
you crash a cnc machine....you can frick an $8k vise, fricked a $600 end mill, probably fricked a tool holder and might have to call the haas guy.
and i had to raise my prices by tenfold for the same product.
I mainly produce carbon parts. I only use FDM printers to create moulds.
If I could afford a 3D printer sized CNC I would.
Forged Carbon has the strength a good bit above aluminum.
i probably should go back to 3d prtinting.
3d printing was marketing in itself.
almost like the dudes buying the product were like THIS IS 3D printed
they don't really care about billet this or billet that
machined aluminum is a trap that only dudes that make shit fall in love with the average stacy doesn't give a frick, they think 3d printed parts are better than traditionally machined components
Post pics of your $8k vise
Also post pics of your $600 endmills
My printer sits unused for 99% of the time. For the 1% that I use it, it's absolutely essential and irreplacable. Make of that what you will.
Sounds like most specialized tools. What are those 1% moments?
Enclosures and plastic parts that don't require much wear. I'm planning on printing a toggle switch that stays toggled on the up and middle positions, and is a spring-tensioned momentary switch when I press it down.
So the next step would be to create a 3d printer for parts that do require much wear, if they wanted you to buy it.
mine started out like that, but as my design patterns have shifted to embrace the fact I have the thing, it stays busy more. I want to get into lost pla aluminum casting, and that should really make a lot of interesting this possible. Doing one off castings for housings with all sorts of mounting bosses would be faster than machining from bulk.
I think it is going to be great in that your prints are prototypes, then scaled, reprinted, and become the core of the mold.
>I think it is going to be great in that your prints are prototypes, then scaled, reprinted, and become the core of the mold.
That is what (now) interests me in casting since building a furnace and welding up crucibles is no big deal. Being able to scale patterns is awesome.
>1%
So you use it on average 1.5 hours a week?
It's near worthless unless you make shit yourself. I think the van life is a meme but this video shows the value of a 3d printer.
?si=PLomYDvrw-rgTuk2
>I think the van life is a meme
Being homeless is a meme?
What people don’t know about 3d printers is the true cost,
They need new beds, new nozzles, and replacement parts often.
So if you spend 17 hours printing a small fruit basket so you don’t have to go to the dollar store
You just paid $25+ for a less good version of that basket.
My dad didn’t understand this for the longest time when I bought him a 3d printer he was printing crap you could buy at Walmart for less than $5 and assumed it was free
>They need new beds, new nozzles, and replacement parts often.
>So if you spend 17 hours printing a small fruit basket so you don’t have to go to the dollar store
>You just paid $25+ for a less good version of that basket.
stop buying nozzles for 1$ a piece, i have printed over 400h with my current nozzle and it still is fine (though I don't print abrasive material, only ABS/ASA some PLA), same for the bed. My printer now has all in all over 1500h on it and I did the first larger maintenance, with cleaning, relubricating rails and checking screws tightness and belts.
And you should use it for parts that you don't fricking get in store, thats the whole point of the printers.
I run prusas everything is a bit more because it’s all brand name too quality shit
Why/how are you breaking so many prusas? My brother has had his for like 7 years and had to do a repair once. Granted he doesnt print a ton.
My brother in Christ you are replying to a tripgay. The problem explains itself.
are you a literal Black person who can't take care of their tools? my glass bed was like $2 at a local glass shop and it's lasted me for over two years so far because i'm not a toddler with butter fingers. nozzles are cheap as frick and last for well over 300 hours with standard PLA+. sounds like you just have a massive skill issue
saw this kraut or whatever he is yesterday
3d printing was shit at first, but things are moving along. the one i have is slow as frick, especially compared to this year's offerings, but it's fine for what it is.
rapid prototyping. custom enclosures. handy dandy things that you need but that you'd never find anywhere else other than your imagination.
>. handy dandy things that you need but that you'd never find anywhere else other than your imagination.
name 3
1. I have a cheap grinder at work. I needed a holder for it where I could stow the handle, the chuck key, and a handful of bits, and it had to fit precisely on the lip of a shelf I already had installed, in a specific location, because the shelf was already full of shit that couldn't be moved because of work flow. The grinder didn't come with a holder of any type, and the manufacturer doesn't offer one.
2. I have a Wiha 18-bit precision screwdriver, and a Wowstick 64-bit. I wanted a caddy that held both drivers, all the combined bits, and all the little extras that each came with. I drew up a 5-tiered holder with space for 100 4mm hex-shank bits (or 1/4 inch or whatever they are), the bit magnetizer, extensions, and a little bin with magnets underneath it to hold any miscellaneous screws that might come along.
3. I made sets of corner- and edge-clamp hold downs for blank FR4 sheets so that I can load them into my CNC router and cut circuit boards without fricking around with other types of clamps or double-sided tape or whatever.
The holder took 1/2 hour to draw up, and 1.5hrs to print. The bit holder took about 4 hours to draw up and get right, and 9 hrs to print. The clamps were 10 minutes in cad and 1 hour to print 4 complete sets of them.
1. i have never seen a grinder being sold without a plastic case that holds these bits and bobs. a single nail on the side of the shelf to hold the handle of the case would replace the 3d print.
2. whats wrong with keeping the in the original packaging
3. fair... are they sturdy enough? ive had a bad experience with 3d printed clamps (layer separation)
My harbor freight grinder from 2003 came in a brown cardboard box that said item#321458 or whatever and 3” grinder in sharpie
Never came with a case or bits or anything
Wrench came separate blades came separately
1. It did come with a plastic case to hold the bits, as well as a variety of other things. I made a hanger that fits in one specific location on a shelf, which holds the chick key as well as my most used bits. That plastic case sits in a drawer, while my hanger is well within reach when needed while I sit at my bench and do work.
2. The original packaging was two separate packages, as it was two different sets of 4mm precision bits. Now it's one package, and all right within reach, with every bot I have easily identifiable at a glance while I work.
3. They do the job. It's a consumable, because you'll eventually smack into it with an end mill or whatever. But you just stick one at each of 4 corners (of a 12x12 shheet) and the ones for the sides probably aren't needed. The only advantage e.g., double-sided tape, has over it is when you're cutting multiple small boards out of one sheet. But if you just do tabs and manually cut the boards from the array it's a moot point.
sry forgot to add the grinder is one of these. that's also why i needed a separate hanger to hold the handpiece and the extras.
i also have a harbor freight/chicago electric rotary that lives in its OEM plastic case. But the plastic case that came with pic related is maybe the size of like 2 packs of cigarettes side by side.
Look at the pic here
Look at the holders for the aloris tool holder blocks along the backsplash of the lathe. Those look 3d printed. Its a great idea.
I made a rack and machined aluminum blocks pre 3d printing. What that guy did is more convenient and 100x faster.
In doing an engine swap in a cj5, I 3d printed a lot of parts for the new hvac ducts inside the dash. The engine mounts themselves were 3d prints (with the engine on a jack) to get the geometry close before iterating a few times in steel. That saved a lot of work.
I use mine to print lil brackets and boxes and etc. that I would nornally make out of wood but it's winter and I don't want to go outside to use my power tools.
If I print a two speed ball lock epicyclic gear box, what is a reasonable maximum contact stress between the nylon gears?
We use them for rapid in house prototyping at the manufacturing company I work at. So not, not a meme.
i have done lot of useful shit like
>car parts
>cases for shit
>some small plastic parts to make things work again
its pretty great if you know how to make 3d models, otherwise you are on others mercy
its a step up from dicking around with wood and sheet meatal, for "every day items" and "replacement parts" its not too great. but other than that it will print out frick-o pops and landfill tugboats for updoots on reddit just fine
Found out what a funko pop was like a month ago bosses kid came into work and showed me his Pokémon. Can't remember which it was but from back when I was a kid starter like a charmander or squirtel or something like that. Number one, I'm surprised kids (he's maybe 9ish) are still into Pokémon, but same time those video games were top tier. However, what was really shocking to me was that you fricks were talking about them like a full year before the kid showed me one and acting like it's a thing for adults. I thought funko pop was similar to like the hipster record player thing some music thing I didn't know about. Funk music and pop music figured it was something like that but like always internet makes up a gay word for it and that makes it popular.
Kid told me about how he'd gotten into arguments with other kids about who saw it first who grabbed it first. Adults don't do this shit it's the same as when we were kids.
Plenty of adults buy funcopops, there's a big overlap with the soiboi consoooomers that buy up all their favourite pop culture recerence figures and stand them all on a shelf pretending that trash is actually nice to look at.
At least the collectorgays who collect dolls and action figures get figures that actually look like who they're intended to be, and have details like textured clothing and such
They're fun in general but sometimes awesome.
Take something like reloading. I can make practically any part but the shell plate for a dillon reloader's caliber conversion kits. When my 20 year old 1050 had some plastic parts crack I just modeled them back up and made new ones in no time.
Single purpose storage that fits into convenient places, for instance. On my cnc machine I have handy storage slots for parts like the joystick and touch probe.
All the little specialty brackets, mounts, adapters, gears and things you make add up pretty quick. I repaired some kitchen drawer slides I couldn't find replacements for and saved about $30 each for instance.
It can be a meme but is totally great when used intelligently.
Stuff like slides, battery covers or ammo press conversion kits are limited 3d printed parts don’t do great with repeated compression cycles, rubbing against harder materials over and over again, and don’t have a super high fatigue failure rate
So like battery covers with the little b***h you dig with your mail to compress and remove wont last long
They do great as organizational items though. If you marketed a 3d printer as a custom organizer insert maker then it would sell to the masses easily
99.9% of 3d printing is toys…. Drone kits, rc airplane kits, crappy knock offs of pocket hole jigs and crappy guns to generate media attention and make money off the clicks
>They do great as organizational items though. If you marketed a 3d printer as a custom organizer insert maker then it would sell to the masses easily
lol. the 3d printer religion is as wacky as any other. I agree that 3d printers are great for some people, but this statement is hogwash.
How so? My best designs just use the strengths of how the layers are laid down to hold stuff
That isn’t super positionally accurate
Like I wouldn’t do a bearing holder for something spinning up to 10k rpm I’d machine that out of tool steel or aluminum and anodize
But if I want something to hold my sockets and be magnetic I’ll print that
A lot of people that argue with me on shit like that don’t even have 3d printers they just fantasize or “plan” what they want to do with them
So if I’m wrong post something you made that doesn’t hold anything and has an impact rated design sustaining multiple impacts over a long period of time
reading comprehension. look into it when you are not proselyting the wonders of 3d printing.
You don't know anything and are dumber than dogshit
Nobody here is saying a 3d printer can do everything like some reddit morons
kys
$1500 in prusa printers + filadryer
I have more prusas than this….I guarantee you it’s nicer than all the printers of every poster in this thread combined
>Sieg Heil of the BMW and shrink-to-fit Levis fame circa 2008 or some bullshit
the fact that you bought beard man's printers is the least surprising thing that's ever been typed. you could have just not said anything and it would have been assumed.
>I guarantee you it’s nicer than all the printers of every poster in this thread combined
>assuming things on the internet.
Surefire way to make yourself look like a moron.
Prusas are overpriced nowadays, they are good but for private ownership there are cheaper ones that deliver similar quality and ease of use, that's also the reason prusa looks more and more into commercial costumer's.
Funny enough I was on a fence preordering a XL, but glad I want with a Voron (which I built early 22), better community and lots of things you can do yourself, on a proven platform.
If you do a kit build and stick with ABS and don't care about >muh accels then there's a great amount of resources which will take you to the absolute heights. You'll be selling themed octopuses to restaurants, highly accurate scale models of anally-cavitating torpedoes to idiots who set up little displays at trade shows, etc. It's all documented, from basic setup to some wine-tasting bourgeoise bullshit for calibrating your extrusion multipliers.
However if you want the full immersion experience you could also try to scratch-build. I also implemented many modifications which I thought of myself, which also improved my immersion.
In terms of overall experience I would compare it to living the entire day to day life of a starving orphaned African child who survived for several years in obscurity before shitting to death from a water borne illness. The combination of 80C chamber temps, ABS parts, beta Tap and Rapido, caused so many issues I actually gave up 3d printing because I had to fix it so often. I've printed several ABS parts since, a bit of artifacts because the belts are cable tied, but dimensionally accurate, no warping, good strength. I'm not in the same room as the printer and I don't watch the first layers or do any of that bullshit. I just log on, set bed to 110, come back in an hour and hit print.
In retrospect, my Voron build was more frustrating and more difficult than my CNC milling machine, which I also scratch-built.
It was also less accomplishment because ABS parts are not very impressive compared to aluminum ones. And I was expecting it to be easy and it wasn't. The reason for the difficulty was due to the higher temperatures. Vorons are based around Print it Forward & ABS parts which all went to shit. Things which didn't go to shit immediately, went to shit after weeks or months of somewhat normally working. If you push the chambers temperatures past 80C you will frick yourself. The good news is, I already fricked myself once so at least i have experience. Also, if you buy the kit and don't have to do the wiring harnesses yourself, it will be a lot faster.
at least it somehow magically works perfectly now, minus the cosmetic banding issues which are not represented in this picture because I printed this a long time ago back when it had different issues.
>kit build
nope, self sourced, printed, though the panels are bought since they are actually composite aluminium plates, way better then the ones recommended from the BOM.
>chambers temperatures past 80C
never was designed for that, you are a moron for even trying. Vorons are for around 50-60°C chamber temp, which is plenty fine for most ABS variants, and if you don't get some bog standard cheap ABS from the 90s and some of the more recent consumer friendly ABS types you get away with way lower chamber temps.
Heck there aren't even consumer parts that are spec'd to run beyond 80°C, because thats the limit they run for, you'd had to get into automotive parts to get extended temperature ranges
High temperature printing is a thing on its own and there is a reason why there are specialized printers for it, that haven't made it the hobbits world with the exception of a few selfbuilts/mods that are basically just proof of concept and run into the same problems you ran.
>never was designed for that, you are a moron for even trying.
>you get away with way lower chamber temps
The voron design is free hardware, so my voron can be designed for whatever the frick I want. Also, there are cosmetic and structural advantages to printing ABS at 80C; ACM and acrylic both have terrible thermal insulating properties; and you clearly don't haven't done any research on what you're talking about because you just regurgitated some bullshit somebody has already said before.
>run into the same problems you ran
No they don't, I only mentioned one problem, which is that the ABS parts creep at high temps.
>there aren't even consumer parts that are spec'd to run beyond 80°C,
What the frick does this even mean? Where did you learn this or even check these specs?
There's now a vendor stocking metal MGN endcaps, which fails at ~120C, which is one of the actual problems that they >ran into. There's more than one person that did all of this stuff, you're just trying to retroactively define reality in order to justify your ignorance.
But yeah the 2.4 is supposedly a really bad HT platform. The Trident is more popular due to reasons
>What the frick does this even mean? Where did you learn this or even check these specs?
you are really restarted, consumer electronics are usually rated for up to 80°C (well even less as it turns out general limits are even lower)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Operating_temperature
and thats what you have in your fricking chamber, ranging from the ICs on the fricking canbus interface you are using to the stepper motors (most of the ones you get are rated for 130°C (at 50°C ambient) to the fricking fans.
>The voron design is free hardware, so my voron can be designed for whatever the frick I want
yeah but not how it was designed by the people who actually made it, taking a design that's not made for temperatures going past 60°C and expecting it to go beyond that is a moronic decision only by you.
https://docs.vorondesign.com/sourcing.html
>Chamber Heating
>There are a few reasons Voron does not and will not support active chamber heating:
>It is not necessary to use a chamber heater to achieve sufficient chamber temperatures for ABS or other common 3D printing materials.
>...
>Exotic Materials (PEEK, PEI, etc.)
>While Vorons are designed to be enclosed, chamber temperatures generally do not exceed 50-60C. This is perfect for printing ABS and most Nylon and PC blends, but it is insufficient for exotic materials such as PEEK and PEI which require 100-130C chamber temperatures.
>While the jump from 60C to 100C may not sound like a lot, most of the parts in your Voron printer will fail before 100C including: all of the 3D printed components, stepper motors, Gates belt, linear bearings, linear rail end caps, inductive probe, acrylic, and ABS panels, fans…
in short you are full of shit.
>yeah but not how it was designed by the people who actually made it,
That's me. It's mine. I actually made my Voron and I designed it. If I wanted to I could even sell my design on Etsy or Ebay. That's what it means to be free and to have like freedom and shit.
>the ICs on the fricking canbus interface
The canbus boards like the ones you bought are a known bad quantity, and they overheat easily. People already tried this and documented this. (Most of my information comes from the Annex builders discord; they have USB C connectors at the toolhead but idk what serial protocol it uses.)
I used mil spec PTFE wire which somebody donated to my hackerspace. no ICs or serial devices in the build chamber, except for the temperature sensors I added.
>the stepper motors
they have water cooled jackets and heatsinks but they also sell higher temp steppers (LDO) and they are very resistant to begin with. not an issue.
>sufficient chamber temperatures
it's not about sufficient, it's about ideal. see my pic.
The voron devs can decide what you're allowed to talk about on the official discord and forums, because they have to moderate and be responsible for idiots. However, they didn't design my voron and they wouldn't know enough about it to design it anyway.
>Gates belt
they're actually wrong about this. They sell high-temp belts (check fabreeko) but the Annex builders said the regular GT2s work fine at 120C.
>linear bearings, inductive probe
not present (though beacon probe supposedly works at 120C)
>end caps
addressed already in previous post
>acrylic and ABS
not present
>fans
obviously, this depends on the fan.
>in short you are full of shit
did you actually drill that bed according to the plans or did you just buy one already made?
>I actually made my Voron and I designed it
no you didn't you modified an existing design, since vorons are open source You are like a chink company, claiming to make products and all they do is use open source stuff, add some (often moronic addons) and call it "their new product", you are the same.
Show me your contribution to the github.
>The voron devs can decide what you're allowed to talk about on the official discord and forums, because they have to moderate and be responsible for idiots. However, they didn't design my voron and they wouldn't know enough about it to design it anyway.
and here we go again, you designed nothing, designing means coming up with with things like the flying gantry DESIGN, the whole extruder design (clockwork 1 + 2, m4 and jetpack).
You modified their design to suit your needs, nothing more, you still use the flying gantry design, still use their corex/y design for the gantry. electronics bay at the bottom, even using the standard z-idlers... All you did was replacing some parts on the hotend, added some fans and put another extruder on it.
meanwhile there are actual people who modify the design of the voron (https://github.com/FrankenVoron/DoomCube-2) far further with higher chamber temps in mid, like the doom cube, by making it double it basically double insulated, and relocating the electronics to suffer less from heat yet they still stay below 80°C.
Also have fun with hotend heat crep with 80°C+ chamber temp, the single 40/50mm fan wont to shit against that.
>claiming to make products and all they do is use open source stuff
actually dumbass I claimed I could sell my design as a Voron because that's the defining feature of the license.
>like the doom cube
doom cube has actually quite bad thermal performance for the size increase. they did it that way so that it could be see-though.
>you designed nothing
u projecting bruh,
you didn't cut your frame extrusions, paid you someone to do it for you;
you didn't drill the bed;
you didn't build the printer following the instructions; you ASSEMBLED it
when you scratch-build something you build it from the stock material. What you did is a KIT BUILD.
pic related; it's a prototype of something I DESIGNED. (*my design was based on trailhead but it's still my design. can of worms. free hardware. your an idiot.)
>you didn't build the printer following the instructions
>instructions
I meant plans
sage
you didn't made your own aluminium extrusion
you didn't made your own aluminum plate
you didn't make your own electronics
alls you did was cut down and assembled according to plans.
Son you are a weak troll or a complete moron.
>t. the shittiest and most envious dad
>aluminum plate can be used to make a variety of devices and structures across countless fields collectively representing a large chunk of cumulative human progress in the sciences;
>a voron kit can be used to make a voron
now u know the differences
>You are like a chink company,
>Show me your contribution to the github
I literally presented pictographic evidence of conducting original research
when people complain about knockoff products, it's because of a lack of R&D
>relocating the electronics to suffer less from heat
boyo do you know which way hot air goes? they put it on top so you could access the electronics easier. when you have a large printer it's a b***h to flip it on its back all the time time.
>the absolute state of anon in 2023
also check out this pic I found on my hard drive; a real classic. 3dxtech can't even properly spec their own filaments' printing temperatures, yet they somehow pulled this gem out of their ass.
Anyway it gets the point across, namely, that your wrong, stupid and gay.sage
Voron s are actually super cheap. Less than $700
>derpa herpa Ramalama Dingdong idlers herpa derpa
hmmm... let's see son, where did you get those G6 pins from?
did you order the stock and cut it down just like it says to in the readme?
or, did you go to yeezy 3d dot com and add "three screws in a box" to your shopping cart?
>herpa derpa misturr west cut two rods for me plz, i gib monis... oh thank u mr west.. teehee.. i build printer myself teehee... see? no kit build here, teehee...
>lmao u did nothing teehee, you just buy from China, teehee!
Good thing sieg is here-- I ain't supposed to be beating up high schoolers without at least one old person being present.
can you use a trip so I can filter you thanks
Is there a good kit printer for stingy noobs like me or would it be better to just stick to the latest creality Ender 3 Vwhateverthefrick?
I don't mind tinkering a bit to get better results but I want to keep my first machine as cheap as possible
Haven't look explicitly into it, but I am hearing the magic phoenix kits are supposed to be quite good for the price. LDO kits are supposed to be "best quality" for kits but come at a price.
I don't recommend it as your first machine, you need some understanding of the basics and if you haven't built anything on your own you will run into walls quite often.
The thing is, a voron is not cheap, especially if you do upgrade later on. They are fine as is and need some tweaking, but once dialed in they deliver good quality. But as designed, its an ABS/ASA machine, people who print PLA with them and complain about overhangs/not enough cooling should kill themselves.
From the current market the Bambo machines have the best price/performance if you want a corexy machine. If you are looking into a cartesian bed slinger aka ender 3 alike, you maybe try to look into sovol. Their SV6/07 work out of the box, have decent features and the 07 runs klipper (which many of the selfbuilt/kits run with)
The reason why I won't buy a bed slinger anymore is mostly space reasons, by design bed slingers need more space and are also restricted in speed more (due to the moving bed/mass). They still deliver good prints and run around 200-250 USD, which is not much to get your feet wet with 3d printing.
Could go for an bambo A1, but its 200-300 bux more for just a bit more convenience. Personally I don't like the approach of bambo, to much apple vibe: closed eco system, going for the same "it just werks" style, including the cloud where you basically relinquish your designs to bambo aka china.
All this research and shit to memorize to get into hot glue extrusion.
If you spent half the time not chasing Chinese crap to overcome problems and save a buck you might have more personality than look at this slinky dragon I printed up
I have a mk4 with a carton box over it, i'm afraid the petg parts might be getting soft at 42 celsius. Good thing i'm going to replace it with a voron.
>don’t do great with repeated compression cycles, rubbing against harder materials over and over
Just insert some carbon or fiber or planes for Teflon etc washers, do countersink for bearings or joints etc.
3d printers aren’t machines, they’re not doing bearing pockets concentric every time.
You can overcome it.
I know you’re not into 3d printing but this is getting into the weeds the way they work is depsit little layers and smush it onto the previous
So imagine building something with a cake icing dispenser thing
Your sides won’t be perfectly flat go buy a mitutoyo indicator and run it across the services if you don’t believe me
>3d printers aren’t machines, they’re not doing bearing pockets concentric every time
Myself buys and insert them in the 3D Print
What the whole thing?
>What the whole thing?
Design dependent. 3D printing is a good tool, but not the holy grail of mech.
>I know you’re not into 3d printing but this is getting into the weeds the way they work is depsit little layers and smush it onto the previous
I do mjf sla fdm abs nylon 3D cad etc etc up to decade now. Hard 2 see from a few sentences I think.
Their potential only really unlocks if you can CAD
If you can't CAD yet, they're a great way to learn to CAD
if you just want to make landfill shit to gather dust on a shelf, yes it's a meme
if you're an actual PrepHoleer who wants to design and produce custom parts then nothing compares
i quit using my 3d printer when i found put i can make a lot of stuff from plastic/wood/metal scraps and other tools without having to draw it out on a computer and wait for it to print.
i file a piece of plastic to shape in half the time it takes to design it in CAD, and solid plastic is sturdier as well compared to getting layer separation if designed wrong.
i do like concrete printers for buildings to. i start at a local startup company that makes them printers next march
3d printing is neat but there's a lot of downsides to extrusion based plastic manufacturing. There's a reason like 95% of all plastics are made via injection molding. Consider it a tool for prototypes.
3d print nerds can't get away from 3d printing either. Like they either can't grasp the concept that there are better non plastic materials or better methods of manufacturing as a whole. Again it's neat but holy frick are some of the people autistic. Why 3D print bolts/nuts when I can get something infinitely stronger in steel?
>Why 3D print bolts/nuts when I can get something infinitely stronger in steel?
I printed out the nut and bolt that attaches to the toilet lid. I didn't have washers larger than M6 and anyway you don't want to use steel, because it'll cause the ceramic to crack. By the time I went to the motherfricking Home Despot, I already forgot about that whole thing.
You oversimplify. Threads print out really well and the bolt or nut is either niche or the thing you're replacing is some janky-ass one cent hose clamp. The real issue is people making simple structural stuff like brackets which wobbles like a motherfricker and they don't notice, don't care, or think wood and metal are old-fashioned, they think anything made out of plywood is going to burn down or spontaneously combust, or they think that filament with carbon fiber floor sweeping dust is the panacea.
I used to also think that everything 3d printed could only be used temporarily like construction scaffolding, and you always had to pretend that you were going to eventually replace all of the 3d parts even if it was like a TV remote or some shit. However, I changed my mind about that once I printed a bunch of ABS stuff.
>printing toilet seat bolts
>costs 2.98 at home depot
you've been played
>christian malcontent requiring me to get off my computer chair and do shit
>type his ludicrous claims into Ask Jeeves search engine
>it even has free delivery
you're are right, I suck wieners and I'm gay plus, I've been shitting in the vicinity of this PLA bolt that now contains a substantial diversity of bacteria secreted away in the FDM folds which I probably have to touch at some point.
god damn it
At least you see the humor in it. Nothing against 3d printing, it's cool, just silly for most things you can actually purchase at an already cheap price
How do you own a 3d printer and not know this, why do you think it says warning don’t print food grade stuff on every printer manual?
leave me alone MOM, I print out risky stuff all the time, for example, custom electronics enclosures out of regular (non flame tested) filament. The question is, does the comparative risks are outweighed by the reward.
go trim your navel hair or something
My home didn't come with the home depot teleporter installed.
If you're a nerd with over 9000 hobbies, 3DP is the best 9002nd hobby one could start, because it augments the other hobbies.
I enjoy printing out replacement parts to replace exceedingly expensive proprietary photography widgets needed for astrophotography, inventions, and goofy things for my train sets.
As others have said, it's a really good way to force yourself to learn CAD, and it's perfect for building prototypes.
It is not for mass producing anything.
>Ankermake M5 (pls don't bully, I love it)
If you have a use for what it makes, no. Otherwise yes. I finally bought one because I've use for the capability but I bought a lathe and mill first.
>Is 3d printing a meme?
Apparently not in New York
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EknWd3rtdR8&ab_channel=LouisRossmann
go ahead and heat your chamber, watch those caps start to fail
Digital sensors, showing the temperature differential between top and bottom of chamber. The thermistors don't provide accurate values. sage
>caps
what caps? capacitors? snapback caps?
>heat your chamber
I only have a heated build plate
No I just used it to make a part for my car door that I can't order.
no, but many people buy one and suddenly discover there isn't anything they really want to print
Anyone who makes their own shit should have a cheap 3d printer. You put in the work at the beginning tuning and learning the quirks of your printer and leave it until you find the perfect stl for some one off part you need and let it print while you work on something else.
If you're spending more time finetuning perfect layers than functional printing you're doing it wrong. If you expect it to pay itself off in x days you're doing it wrong. If you're sitting in front of the printer watching for print errors you're doing it wrong.
Mine was $200 plus an extra $100 or so in peripheral parts like a webcam and enclosure. Once or twice a month I find or think of something I can print and more often than not I find an stl online that does the job.
Will someone please bake the 3dpg, I'm not qualified
Yes, most people just use it for toys and stupid figures, which is a terrible use for it. If you wanna tinker and build shit theres a bit of a learning curve with fusion or solidtwerks, but it's worth it.
The plastic is of crap quality. Sure prototype something before getting it made to last. Or cast it yourself using scrap aluminum, plaster, epoxy etc.
I don't get the hair pulling with guys trying to make something for production out of PLA? Use the right tools for the job!
There was a 3d printer youtuber that said “most people that buy 3d printers, get excited about the new toy then print toys they wouldn’t buy at the dollar store, and never look at them again”
It’s so true, how many benchies, pootin poop emjois and fidget toys are on office desks of puffy white dudes working office jobs that tell everyone they have a 3d printer
People can't just enjoy 3d printing for the sake of it? Why the gatekeeping?
The amount of times I had a consumer product and was like damn I wish I had a more expensive, fragile,hollow one of these that melts in direct sunlight and takes 6+ hours to create was exactly zero
>>is the most important tech development of the last 20 years a meme?
3D printers are a tool. Like any other tool, its usefulness is based on the skill and talent of the operator and the task at hand.
It's about as much of a meme as taking up any other hobby around making things when you can get the same shit for pennies from china regardless of the material.
no?? lmao. I really want to get a resin printer to use for aluminum casting. Anyone here have experience with that kind of thing?
it will replace injection molding for 90% of things
No, but it can and does produce disposable injection molds.
Thermoplastic printing does not replace injection molding of non-thermoplastics.
thermoset SLA resins already exist
The utility of 3d printing isn't just the flexibility of production, but its ability to be recycled and decentralize manufacturing. Most products volume is the plastic shell. Imagine if China could fit 10x as many parts kits for items on a ship, then the shells are printed and assembled domestically?
Separate kit packaging would often have greater bulk due to having to control things like PC boards and other loose parts so they don't bash each other in transit. Recycling is mostly greenwashing which is valid.
>thermoset SLA resins already exist
Which do not match injection molding. I know you really really want printing to replace everything but it's not there yet.
Lost PLA casting is not a meme, it's a game changer. Anyone could make any part they want with a large enough printer/foundry, and access to machine tools to finish them.
no i just designed and printed a steam engine all it one day today and its fun
3d printing is the best tool in the shop because
you can make anything with close to 0 effort.
making stuff with literally any other process will take 5x more man hours unironically.
I spend more time assembling stuff than I do designing it
Ordering 3d prints is a meme
Oh i only need x 3d printed ill pay +$50 instead of buying a 3d printer
I don't use it for anything
It's a good way to make smaller parts. They are both more capable than most people think and less universal than most people think. A lot of stupid people print stupid things that make no sense to print like this here shoe, but at the same time people really underestimate engineering plastics, and even some of the non-engineering stuff like PETG.
We've got a commercial 3d printer at work. Uses resin and wax. But they want to buy a bigger one, that uses filament.
I've printer tons of stuff with it .
I use it to learn cad and 3d printing, then making plastic parts for my motorcycle, next will be custom parts for other projects. The key is to get started to learn how, then you can find uses for it you did not think of before.
We have like 4 printers at work, 1 being anycubic resin printer the rest is voron 2.4 and some 2 smaller ones. We constantly print with the filament ones stuff thats actually used in production enviroment. Resin one is used way less, mainly for prototyping because of how brittle the prints are. So i wouldnt say its a meme really.
Hasn’t the 3d printing phase died out by now? I thought you couldn’t make money from 3d printing anymore due to printers being cheap nowadays, so what are people doing with them?
The magnetic beds work great for holding magnetic shit
Printing Bambu Lab mini Spools using Prusament PETG on a Bambu Lab A1 Mini at 166% speed in Ludacris mode, 4mm Nozzle @0.20mm Layerheight using the standard Bambu PETG filament profile in 1h 30m per spool half.
My MK3S+ prints it in 2h using a 0.8mm nozzle @ 0.56mm Layerheight.
I tried Bambu PLA, PLA CF and Prusa silver PLA and they all can print at 166% speed for the first layer but they tear holes into the print or string after the first layer. Bambu PLA at 125% speed is okay.
The only Filament that prints perfectly and looks slick like an eel is Prusament PETG.
Its odd because using the standard print and filament settings PETG is always the slowest but Prusament PETG seems to be the best performing high speed filament.
I also found 5 year old no brand Chinese PLA+ that I got from eBay 5 years ago and that I unwrapped and just left exposed to air.
I was able to print at 50% and the print (spool) was perfect, stunning quality like injection moulded but it took 3hours per spool half and that material is rock hard. I guess they mixed in ABS or something.
Unless Prusa gets out a Core-X-Y printer that can compete with the speed of the bambu I predict Prusa will either go bust or become a filament only producer.
I really like their filament and prefer it. How fast can you guys print a mini spool?
Im referring to the A1 mini version here:
https://makerworld.com/de/models/12683#profileId-78705
1h 30min flawless PETG high speed print at 166% speed.
Normal speed was 3h 15min.
Also bambu A1 mini cleans the nozzle against a steel grid and rubber pad before printing, nozzle pressure, flow rate, bed height sensing during printing and its using linear rails. Its not just muh wifi it’s everything together that blows away any voron or prusa. I feel silly having bought a prusa mk3s+ and it’s embarrassing how prusa made 250 Million dollars but slept and forgot to keep up with core X Y
But i really hope prusa never stops making filament.
If prusa was smart they would offer accelerometer based input shaping kklippwr upgrade kits via USB without the need to replace the 8 bit computer for 150 bucks.
That would save their reputation if they match the A1 mini in speed
I decided to use my prusa mk3s+ only with a 0.8mm nozzle for structural parts with PETG that i print over night.
Otherwise literally useless for prototyping because its too rough at 0.8mm @0.56mm LH and not even usefull to test fit perhaps only to check proportions or general shape.
https://www.veed.io/view/6df1b12a-11e8-4dc1-a42d-d18391bbf74c?panel=share
What is the best CAD software that allows you to specify the real world size of an object? I have played around with Openscad and whatever software each printer came along but they were lacking in this specific area.
Stls are parametric so there are no stored measurements just do it in your slicer