I'm thinking about getting one of those steel arch prefabs for a workshop or something. And i got questions.

I'm thinking about getting one of those steel arch prefabs for a workshop or something. And i got questions. What's the best way to waterproof these things? just a bead of construction silicone where the panels overlap? would a few coats of Kilz on the outside help protect it, or is that just adding a layer to trap moisture/rust? Wondering if anyone has fricked with theses things before. any stories, advice, experience, or shitposts are welcome.

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  1. 9 months ago
    Anonymous

    What about some container ?

    • 9 months ago
      Anonymous

      They don't require sealing. This was obvious so I skipped the foam. I built then disassembled mine when I moved and reassembled it. Zero problems because I used industrial (not watery auto store trash) anti-seize on every bolt. Galvalume i s basically immortal but the bolts can rust. Buy FLANGED stainless bolts and FLANGED hex nuts if dislike that. Chinese is fine. Use anti-seize on all stainless because galling.

      Matching sleeve nuts are your friends. So is unistrut. Cabinets easily bolt to the walls.

      BTW my foundation was steel beams which I also took with me to use at my new place where I welded them together for good and poured concrete in the center thus buying no wooden forms and having a foundation I can and did weld to.

      Tracking down heavy steel at auctions is wise as is keeping it in advance of need. A couple days ago I brought my small cutting outfit (small oxy-acetylene cylinders but normal cutting torch) to auction to halve two beams so my bro could trailer them home. We'll weld them together after placement. I weld downward pipe verticals placed in holes for concrete potting after leveling the beams. If the beam is too narrow for your kits base channel you can notch it for bolts using large washers as I did or just drill and bolt. A steel beam foundation is ideal for steel buildings and containers.

      I have both and have not combined them though that's popular. The Steelmaster style is best over a slab. Mine's a little 20x20 which suits my needs but you can lengthen them as long as you can afford to buy panels for.

      Either works great if you plan wisely. Neither works well if you're stupid.

      I don't find mine annoyingly loud but sensitive homosexuals (redundant I know) should be gassed.

  2. 9 months ago
    Anonymous

    God damn how loud is it inside one of these things when it rains?

    • 9 months ago
      Anonymous

      WHaT?

      • 9 months ago
        Anonymous

        HOW LOUD IS IT INSIDE WHEN IT RAINS??

        • 9 months ago
          Anonymous

          very

          without padding.

        • 9 months ago
          Anonymous

          IT'S PrEtTY LoUD

    • 9 months ago
      Anonymous

      Oh man, that actually sounds kino

  3. 9 months ago
    Anonymous

    >just a bead of construction silicone where the panels overlap?
    normally:
    1: water falls down, so the panels above go over the outside of the panels below, so water doesn't get inside because it cant go up.
    2: most of the time if someone sells you an exterior building, like a garage or house or even a shed, you can expect it will be reasonably weatherproof
    i would suggest look for something galavnised and then powder coated for maximum longevity

  4. 9 months ago
    Anonymous

    Try google first before asking simpy stuff like this.
    My Advice: Aluminum Foil Tape
    Example: 3M Venture Tape - High Temperature

  5. 9 months ago
    Anonymous

    You need a DTM paint for any kind of real corrosion protection. Kilz would chalk and fade , yellow and peel off in a year. (Direct to Metal)

    • 9 months ago
      Anonymous

      Galvalume doesn't require painting, that being the point. I've seen no corrosion on my panels since 1995.

      No reason exists to paint the stuff but if required an etching primer after finding out what's standard for galvalume.

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