I'm replacing rotors and pads on my brakes, it's the first time I'm doing it, any tips?
I'm replacing rotors and pads on my brakes, it's the first time I'm doing it, any tips?
I'm replacing rotors and pads on my brakes, it's the first time I'm doing it, any tips?
Use wire or something to hang the caliper, don't let it dangle by the brake hose. Make sure lugnuts are torqued properly and to spec. Have fun
>torqued properly and to spec.
I don't have a torque wrench.
Thanks.
Is it worth using a wire brush on the calipers and do I need to open the fluid reservoir when compressing the piston?
Yes wire brush or sand paper to get rid of rust in the brake pad guide to prevent hang up, yes to cracking the resorvior. Please dont forget to get brake pad lube to lube the guides and the slide pins once you pull them and clean them.
Also if you live in the rust belt, the hardest part about the front brakes are the bolt that holds the rotors on. I had to drill around the bolt becaue the bit got broken in the star bolt. Luckily brake rotors are not tool strength metal like the bolt.
Replace your brake caliper bolts if you haven't recently. The bolts are maybe 2 bucks a piece and come with yellow loctite/thread locker
rotors are not held on with bolts, what are you smoking
some aren't, some have these alignment/retaining bolts, and they seize like frick.
those are screws, moron, and I just mentioned them
fine captain autism, i concede.
With the risk of sounding like a moron, how are those screws not bolts?
Plus all rotors are held on on by bolts otherwise known as lug nuts.
Maybe you're the moron
they just are, they have countersunk philips screw heads on them. OP's picture is just a screw that's really stripped out
>how are those screws not bolts?
From what I see, the typical naming convention is a threaded fastener with a socket cap head or a square head or a hex head is considered a bolt
A threaded fastener with a countersunk head, or a pan head, heads meant to be driven by a screwdriver, would be considered machine screws.
If you want a definition per Machinery’s Handbook
>Bolt- externally threaded fastener designed for insertion through holes in assembled parts, and is normally intended to be tightened or released by torquing a nut.
>Screw- externally threaded fastener capable of being inserted into holes in assembled parts, of mating with a preformed internal thread of forming its own thread, and being tightened or released by torquing the head.
That's a set screw. The bolts hold the caliper mounting bracket to the caliper and the control arm.
>That's a set screw
No its not
What a shitty design
Does it even need the fricking things?
Technically? No.
The only thing they do is holding the rotor in place any time you take off the wheel.
The screw only presses the rotor onto the hub which the wheel lugnuts or bolts also do.
>Does it even need the fricking things?
Depends. If you have lug bolts instead of studs and nuts, they are a necessity.
It's from the factory to protect the workers from the rotors falling off. PITA if they strip and have to be drilled and not necessary to replace. Lots of amerimutt cars have them.
>brake pad lube to lube
Yeah I bought copper grease that I saw people on youtube using.
I went looking around for a torque wrench but I'm not in the US and the cheapest was like $70. There's a large chinamen store nearby I can go check there if it's essential.
Or maybe it's worth buying a better one since I'm getting into fixing my own car...
Maybe it would have been a better buy than the jack stands I bought for this job.
>Pad wear left to right should be almost the same.
This is something I was not going to pay attention so thanks for letting me know.
>screw clamp
Does it work better than the channellock(mine is knipex but works the same)?
The reservoir is like half full so I think it should retract the piston fine without overflow.
>Maybe it would have been a better buy than the jack stands I bought for this job.
No, the jack stands are essential. Unless you've got another way to hold the car in the air, you can't change your brakes without them.
I don't think I've used a torque wrench when changing my brakes. I always go with "good and tight." Maybe that's dangerous, whatever.
Be careful when handling the lube around the rotors and pads. You don't want to get any lube on the friction surface where the pad meets the rotor ... for obvious reasons, a pad needs friction to slow the car down. And clean the rotors real good with brake cleaner.
Last piece of advice: pay attention to how the pads and springs come out of the calipers, because you'll put the new ones on the same way. That's the part that always makes me feel frustrated: actually putting the pads into the calipers. I don't know if there's an "easy" way to do it, but it's always a real pain in the ass to get the springs and pads to all line up and seat correctly. So be patient.
>Yeah I bought copper grease that I saw people on youtube using.
I don't know if i'd use that stuff on the brake sliding pins. For one, it looks identical to the regular old "High temp" anti-sieze that they make. Anti-sieze is probably the absolute worst thing you can use on brake pins, because the stuff isn't designed as a lubricant, and it actually "dries out" really fast, and gums up really bad, actually helping the pins freeze into place.
Not sure what brand you got, but the stuff i'm seeing advertises as a "Brake lube/anti-seize", which is suspicious because in the pictures for the product I only see them using it on the wheel hub, just like you would use regular old anti-seize to keep the drum or rotor from freezing to the hub. For another, it doesn't seem to list that it's specifically meant for brake slides or pins.
I wouldn't take the chance, there's plenty silicone or ceramic based lubes out there that are specifically designed for this stuff. (Btw, most brake pads actually come with a small amount of lube with them)
Can you post a the right lubricant for the sliding pins? Pic related is what I've got. Also this is the video I'm using for reference. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a2FljbwdJSM
Thanks.
anon in that photo i thought you put the lube on the pad and i started worrying.
It's just the clip that comes with the pad.
Would one of these work for the slider pin?
https://www.wd40.com/products/white-lithium-grease/
https://www.wd40.com/products/silicone-lubricant/
Like another anon said before, ceramic or silicone grease. You can use copper grease on the outside of the pads too.
>Does it work better than the channellock(mine is knipex but works the same)?
Knipex channel locks are good and you might be able to theoretically get them on some small calipers but I wouldnt bet on it. Cheapest screw clamps you can get will work. If its a caliper design where you have to twist the piston your channel locks may work.
>I don't have a torque wrench.
I would recommend one, even just a cheap 1/2 drive beam wrench
66666
Use a screw clamp on the piston. Dont have to wire brush but you can and then throw some high temp paint on there. Hang caliper like other dude said.
>I don't have a torque wrench.
3 ugga duggas at max power
Dont forget to disconnect the brake lines.
>disconnect lines when not replacing them or calipers
don't do this it makes mustard gas
>channel locks
I was more of a fan of a big C clamp but now I have an actual brake tool I use for pressing the piston back into the caliper.
>i don't have a torque wrench
They're like $12 at Harbor Freight my dude just get one; I don't know if I'd trust them for rebuilding an engine from the crank outward but they're plenty accurate for lugnuts and way more accurate than just going by feel with a regular ratchet or an impact gun etc.
>worth using a wire brush
It only takes a few extra minutes to clean everything up before installing new hardware, so yes I'd say it's worth it, doubly so if the caliper/bracket is corroded or particularly full of brake dust and dirt. Try not to breathe the dust.
>do i need to open the reservoir when compressing the piston
Not unless it's stupidly, obviously super over filled to start with and if that's the case you'd only need it open to remove the excess before you start. The cap stays shut while the brakes actuate (drawing and returning fluid as they clamp and release) normally so this isn't a case where leaving the cap shut will cause interference with an unintended vacuum seal or anything.
Get some brake lube for use in the channels where the pads slide in and out, and check your slide pins for binding and clean+relube them if they're not very compliant this will prevent all kinds of bullshit problems.
Use a set of channel locks to compress the break pad. If you had a shop take the wheels off last then they'll probably be torqued to infinity. When you put the wheels back on, make sure to tighten your lug nuts in a star pattern.
Don't use channel locks, they have a tool which compresses the pads which is maybe all of 6 dollars. Channel locks can crack the pads.
>If you had a shop take the wheels off last then they'll probably be torqued to infinity.
This! God dam those mother frickers cranked that shit down, swear they over torque that shit holy frick
>Use a set of channel locks to compress the break pad
I've always used a C-clamp, but ok.
>I don't have a torque wrench.
Some automotive parts stores will rent you one. NAPA always was a good source.
>pay a shop to do it
Nope. You can save hundreds of dollars doing it yourself.
>t.
what does t. stand for? i know it's supposed to attribute ownership of a post but i'm curious about its origins since i've never seen it used anywhere but PrepHole
https://knowyourmeme.com/memes/t--2
t. helpful boomer
why did an english-speaking board adopt a fingolian convention that's just going to confuse the hell out of most of its users?
Most people don't question the origin of memes
>t. helpful boomer
>boomers
>helping anyone
Doubt.png
I think most people signing posts "t. name" are referencing a todd howard meme from PrepHole, not the finnish thing.
Lurk moar
>any tips?
Pad wear left to right should be almost the same. If it isn’t, you have a problem. Also, second the high temp brake grease for the contact surfaces between the pad and caliper. Wire brush all surfaces. Get some anti seize on the caliper bolts when you put them back on. Bleeding the brakes is always advisable since you are in there anyway.
be careful retracting the pistons, if you have topped up brake fluid since last pad change it might overflow as you push them in which is a b***h to clean up.
if you have a syringe you can suck some of it up make some room.
might as well bleed some fresh fluid through while you are there too...
Don't let your caliper dangle from the soft brake line. Also if you're flushing your brakes, which you should since you're down there, replace your soft brake lines every 50k miles. The inside of the rubber deteriates exposed to salt etc and can cause a check valve and cause your caliper to lock up. It's worth buying the nicer stainless braided lines over rubber lines. They are very easy to replace, will add an extra 45 minutes to your install, make sure to get the correct sized flair wrench and not a regular one so you don't round off, good luck, I remember the first time my wife changed our brakes too
You need at least 2 types of lubricant, 3 if the slider pins are enclosed type. So first you'd need copper grease to lubricate the pad's ears where they go in the caliper bracket, make sure to clean that area well with a wire brush or even a file. 2nd put some antiseize, the grey aluminum paste, on the outside of the pads where the caliper is contacting and pressing. On the inside pad put some around where the piston is pushing on the pad. The last, slider pins if you've got the simple type where they go in some rubber mounts on the bracket and act as mounting screws for the caliper just clean them with a wire brush without lubricating them! It's very important to leave them dry or else they'd accumulate dirt and seize. If you've got the type where they go inside the caliper bracket and slide freely, take the little rubber skirt around around them and clean out the old grease. Use ceramic white grease and note the mounting order/position, some caliper models don't use identical pins. I wouldn't use anti-seize or copper grease on the slider pins. Don't use regular grease either, the heat and enclosed space would destroy it.
I did this the other week for the first time. If that little bolt in the rotor is not wanting to come out just heat it up a bit and that could make all the difference
>any tips?
Check a YouTube video on your car model. Some brakes have a few gotchas. Audi rear calipers need a special tool to retract the pistons. Pic related.
If you live where they salt the roads, get some penetrating oil, a heatgun or torch, and a sledge hammer. Those rotors are not coming off without it.
Pads are easy, get some wire or something to hang the calipers from so you don't stress the brake line.
1) pay a shop to do it
2) If you're dead set on doing it, properly lift and place the car on blocks. DO test your blocks by giving the car a light jostle once you have it up in the air to make damn sure your blocks are solid. People get hurt all the time working under cars and thinking their blocks are solid only to find out they improperly put it on the blocks and the car falls off while they are working.
Honestly man it's not worth the hassle when a shop will do it for $250
You're on the wrong board friend
>Honestly man it's not worth the hassle when a shop will do it for $250
What the frick are you talking about i did this shit when I was 16 and you are telling him to pay 250 when he's willing to learn? Lmao. Faaaaag.
Adding pic to help op find what i mean. C clamp not screw clamp I guess. Have done dozens of cars from 70s to new.
A Roanoke man of taste I see, too bad that harbor freight is on the Black person side of town
True kinda far but luckily don't need to go there often
You know anyone local who could replace an abs module and pump? I'm too fat to get to it
>pay a shop to do it
Frick you
>$250
Also, doubt it probably morjrdxoe like 300+
>Honestly man it's not worth the hassle when a shop will do it for $250
Shop rates are north of $150/hr. Book time for R&R on all four wheels is at least four hours.
>Shop rates are north of $150/hr.
And parts are always at least double what they are online
>PrepHole
>do it yourself
you can just use a car jack to do it you fricking pleb you dont need blocks. You are doing on tire at a time jackass. It is literally no different than just changing a flat tire. GTFO
its really not as complicated as others are making it. You can pretty much follow a google guide to get it done.
caliper retract tools are cheap on ebay and make life a lot easier. use brake cleaner on the discs as they come coated in a film of oil plus whatever you transfer to them via your greasy mitts. don't let the caliper dangle about, hang it properly. it's an easy job have fun.
hardest part is those damn screws that Honda puts on their rotors from the factory. they rust-weld themselves to the rotor and hub and are a total b***h to drill out, especially when your screw extractor keeps breaking off inside it.
use the proper size bit for the screw, GO SLOW, and do not for the love of god strip it out.
Make sure to cover the entire disc in silicone grease, it lets you brake faster
Can people just use regular break grease along the outside edges of the break pads where it fits into the caliper clips or does it have to be high temp grease?
What if you use no Grease?
Better to use none than regular break grease?
Brake grease is for everything, caliper slide pins, back of brake pads and lube for the clip in retainers.
Dont put any any you are going to take it apart again. Its like $1.
NEVER hit the brakes when your caliper is off the rotor or you'll lose all your fluid, might have to rebleed it too
also, is your car >5 years old? do they salt the roads where you drive? then prepare your anus
Brossssss heeelllp, are these slider pins rekt? They are bent.
It's like$10 for a new set
They should be replaced, should be peanuts for them.
Bros thank you all for those who took the time to write some advice, job is done!
Slider pins were both bent on the right wheel but with the help of a vise a managed to straighten them and finish the job, just did a test drive and everything is working pretty solid.
That said tomorrow I'm redoing it though, I'm buying new pins, torque wrench and proper grease because I used some cheap green grease just to get it done today.
It's nothing a super difficult job but I'm happy that I did it, pops helped too so it was nice.
Thanks again PrepHole.
Good job anon, auto work with dad is always nice
congrats bro. I remember my first time, feels good man
Pro Tip if your rear rims are rusted on and no amount of kicking gets it off. ! minute with a handheld propane torch will pop them off with a kick. Works everytime.
Alot of helpful and good posts in this thread can any of you help me with my current problem?
>Turns out it's not going to be the front tire bearing (install $120 for nothing) FRICK.
>But more likely going to be this https://youtu.be/o2x_ZNOveFg [Open]
>The Front axle disconnect assembly Chevrolet Trailblazer CV axle
>So how bad is it, what degree of difficulty will this be to do with out a real garage and using just Jacks and Jack stands?
>How much can i expect a shop to charge for this and should I replace the CV axle like in the video?
>How long can I drive on this fricked up part before it fricks something else up?
2006 trailblazer
If you want help you should give the amount of information necessary to do some remote advice.
>What are the symptoms of your car
>Did you diagnose the problem or do just "think it is that" because you saw some video?
>Photo of defect bearing/strut/whatever
"Front axle disconnect assembly" - what the frick is that supposed to be? I ain't watching some 30 minute video just because you can't give proper information.
There are several things that can be wrong with an axle: It's bent, it's torn, it's connection to the frame is rusted and ripped off and it's bearings can be finished. Repair can be done on a parking lot but you would need to know what you're doing and a bunch of tools.
Frick off disingenuous piece of shit follow the link back you fricking moron don't try to act like you would've helped anyway
You're like a lot of customers that come into the car workshop, wanna save money and think you're smarter than everyone else. But in the end you'll sell the car or pay more than a thousand bucks in the shop.
>cant be bothered to put minuscule effort into posting a full coherent question
>thinks he will be able to pull off invasive carwork
Uh oh
Thats actually pretty cool its one assembly that disconnects from the transmission. The hard part would be banging out the axle from the front bearing, but you just replaced it so it should bang out easy.
This is really just a matter of you buying the stands, torque wrench and tools, jack, grease (?) and not fudging it up. And of course a chilton manual; seems like something that would nbe in it.
Depends if you wanna go full diy or just have it done by a mechanic in a day.
Checked but frick a chilton get the factory service manual for your car for that year
dont hook a grease gun up to the bleed port.
If it looks like this when done then you did good. Spray paint the calipers and anti seize in all the right places.
>Spray paint the calipers
Neat idea
MIGRATE
>doing janny's job
>4 free
Kek, what a b***h
Thought this thread was already deleted or purged?
Why bring it back
most of the time it is pretty simple but occasionally you run into weird bolts you wont have tools for, at least this is what happened to me on a jaguar I owned. Have a coat hanger handy to hang the front part from so it doesnt tear your hose off the nipple and know to pump the lines to get the air out before putting it back on