I'm installing this panel and I'm not an electrician. I'm getting an inspection when it's done.
I assume the 2 hot wires from the service cable go into the 2 spaces I marked and the ground goes into the spot I marked.
But why are there 2 spots for neutral wires when the cable only has 1?
Can they go in either spot since the panel bonds them together anyway?
I would splice the neutral into 2. Neutrals can be dangerous when not properly handled (phantom shocks)
I would also read the paperwork for the box to see how to properly handle the grounding
bad troll
My quints beat your dubs
I've talked to multiple electricians that have told me how they got lit up by neutrals
Please, do us all a favor and kys before you become a liability for whoever buys your estate when you would inevitably die from your own stupidity anyway
>Please, do us all a favor and kys before you become a liability for whoever buys your estate when you would inevitably die from your own stupidity anyway
lmao your life is absolutely pathetic and I guarantee you're a virgin
Smugly seething over DIYers asking basic questions it the only satisfaction you get in your terrible life.
I literally tried to help you and you were a dick
Don't be mad to get what you give
Can't wait to hear how many times the electrical inspector fails you
>I literally tried to help you
No you didn't. You made an obvious troll post.
>Can't wait to hear how many times the electrical inspector fails you
They won't because I'm doing this properly and just need some information on a few things I don't understand yet.
>yet another throwaway thread that could have been a google search
I googled the shit out of this. You try googling it if you're so smart.
>You try googling it if you're so smart.
sure, what's the model of the box? you know, some actually relevant information that would have actually made sense to put in the OP?
seq32100sm
>>im doing this properly
>>I don’t know what I’m doing
Pick one
yet another throwaway thread that could have been a google search with a butthurt OP when he doesn't hear exactly what he wants to hear
great thread boys
every panel I've worked on the neutral bars are both bonded together so it shouldn't matter which one you connect to, if thats the case in this panel. I could keep going with how you're supposed to bond and ground everything but I don't feel like it just look it up.
The paperwork that came with the panel probably has a very clear section on how to do the neutral bonding. Maybe you should try reading it?
It didn't explain much. I read the whole thing.
This panel is the main panel. There is no subpanel.
There will be a disconnect between the meter and this main panel though.
Do I still bond neutral to ground in the panel in this situation?
Also, does it matter which order I install the red and black hots into the main breaker in this panel?
Does it matter which order I install the red and black hots into the disconnect?
Does it matter which order I install the red and black hots into the meter?
I will be using this meter/disconnect combo.
https://www.electrozad.com/2890198/Product/hydel-ja402r
Thanks.
>There will be a disconnect between the meter and this main panel though.
>Do I still bond neutral to ground in the panel in this situation?
In this situation you would bond the neutral to ground at the main disconnect in your meter/disconnect combo. You would then run 4 conductors (2 hots, a neutral, and your ground) to the breaker panel inside. Do NOT bond in the breaker panel inside when you configure it like this.
>Also, does it matter which order I install the red and black hots into the main breaker in this panel?
>Does it matter which order I install the red and black hots into the disconnect?
>Does it matter which order I install the red and black hots into the meter?
No, and you don't even have to use reds and blacks--- it's more common for both hots to simply be black.
Also, make sure to get the sizing correct for your conductors. Just look it up.
If that OP pic is your actual panel, and you intend to install a 125A panel as the main panel for your home, then please consider using a larger service. For one thing, in many areas they have minimum service sizing rules, and for another thing it is probably shortsided to install such a small panel in this day and age. I assume that you're using all gas appliances and you don't expect to change in the future, but given that 90% of the cost of installing a service like this is the labor and you're doing the labor yourself.... I would be installing a 200A panel at the minimum. And consider putting in a 400A so that you could add an electric car charger later as a selling feature.
Thanks for the advice.
How high does the mast going to the entrance cap/weatherhead need to be?
also:
The panel will be on the other side of the building to the disconnect.
Can I put the ground rods next to the panel, ground them(but not bond to neutral) to the panel, but then bond the ground to neutral at the disconnect?
It's impractical for me to have the ground rods next to the disconnect, but I can still bond the ground to neutral at the disconnect.
>How high does the mast going to the entrance cap/weatherhead need to be?
Ask your local power company for their "blue book" or manual. It's free and it will give you helpful info about this kind of stuff. This particular issue can vary based on local rules rather than being strictly defined by the NEC.
There are rules about how high it has to be above the roof surface if mounted on/through the roof. Also it has to be a certain height above the ground or walking surface underneath AND its a different height if vehicle travel is possible underneath it.
This has turned into full spoonfeeding mode. Just read the first 100 pages of "Wiring Simplified"
It would have answered every single question that you have asked and also given you the foundation of knowledge to understand WHY things are done the way they are.
>Can I put the ground rods next to the panel, ground them(but not bond to neutral) to the panel, but then bond the ground to neutral at the disconnect?
If you already have a meter with a disconnect, then it should already have ground electrodes installed. You can place additional electrodes anywhere you want by just tying them into the system, and AFAIK this is one of those "the more, the better" situations.
>This has turned into full spoonfeeding mode. Just read the first 100 pages of "Wiring Simplified"
>It would have answered every single question that you have asked and also given you the foundation of knowledge to understand WHY things are done the way they are.
I appreciate the spoonfeeding. I'm kind of in a rush in the middle of a big project and I thought I could get by on advice alone. I've done a bit of electrical work before but nothing this big.
I think I have it mostly figured out now. If I fail the inspection, they will just tell me what to fix and I will fix it.
>If you already have a meter with a disconnect, then it should already have ground electrodes installed.
What do you mean ground electrodes? There is a spot on it for attaching ground wires.
It's a lot easier for me to just put the ground rods next to the panel.
Is it okay to just do that?
Also if you would be so kind, could you tell me how many ground rods(I assume 2), how long do they have to be and how far apart they need to be.
>Also if you would be so kind, could you tell me how many ground rods(I assume 2), how long do they have to be and how far apart they need to be.
this feels like its just bait at this point
OP literally has no clue what he's doing and should hire a professional
I'm going to finish this project and pass the inspection.
Just watch
Did you? Leaving us all hanging here homosexual
inspection postponed to next week
I believe I have everything in place. I'm using 4/0 tech cable and a metal mast
Teck cable? You in Canada?
I thought US guys called it MC, or something.
It looks like a US panel, Canada panel has cover plate over main breaker terminals.
4/0 cable is big for 125A. Copper or aluminum? Was it free?
I switched to a 200amp panel. That's why I am using 4/0 TECH cable.
It's aluminum.
>Was it free?
No.
Question, I was just going to run it into the building using pvc pipe and connector, is this fine or do I need one of those outdoor rated tech connectors that clamp down the cable?
It's "teck" cable, named after the Teck mine where it was invented.
The aluminum version is ACWU, but people people still call it teck.
Just so you look like a bit less of a moron when dealing with inspectors, it does help
Teck cable is rated for direct bury, although it's common practice to slip it through a piece of pipe for the first 3 to 4 feet as it rises out of the ground.
Outdoors, you use the weather tight teck conectors. The "star teck" or older variety. Just ask for "outdoor teck connectors" at the supply store.
Indoors, you can use "dry teck connectors".
If you're in Canada, get the PS Knight book "electrical code simplified". It's like $20, available everywhere and really good. Inspectors refer to it. Follow the diagrams in there, and you'll be good.
>Outdoors, you use the weather tight teck conectors. The "star teck" or older variety. Just ask for "outdoor teck connectors" at the supply store.
Okay but can I simply use PVC conduit connectors to connect the tech cable to the inside of the house? That's looking like the best option for me right now. It doesn't clamp the cable to the meter base but it connects it there and is waterproof.
Thanks bro, inspection is next week
At each end of your teck cable, you will need teck connectors--no exceptions.
>At each end of your teck cable, you will need teck connectors--no exceptions.
Did I royally frick this up then?
I just connected the tech to the meter today from inside the building. I used pvc connectors. It's totally waterproof so what is the problem?
lolll shidddd
Teck cable is already rated for outdoor install, no need to put it in PVC.
With PVC conduit, normally you'd pull individual RW90 conductors through. Basically the wires inside the teck cable is all you need without the armoured jacket.
You need to choose between running conduit, or running teck.
Your teck cable, do the individual wires have lettering? Or just on the outside of the cable? If the wires are marked, you could cut that teck cable open and pull the individual conductors back through.
Or, ditch the pipe and get teck connectors.
How many bends you got on that conduit? Code max is 4 x 90 bends if I recall
Whats the panel side look like?
>Teck cable is already rated for outdoor install, no need to put it in PVC.
damn I didn't know that, well it looks better in PVC anyway so I will leave it if I can.
>You need to choose between running conduit, or running teck.
I see. Well if it's already in conduit then it should be fine.
I bought pic related from a supplier. It's an outdoor rated teck fitting. I was reading the armor part of the tech fitting needs to be grounded and this is what will do it. I was planning on cutting the pvc connector off the meter and attaching this to the meter and inserting the PVC elbow into the rubber seal side. Is this up to code?
Also, I just realized this thing is for 2 inch conduit and not 2 1/2 inch. I need to return it and get the 2 1/2 inch one.
>do the individual wires have lettering?
Yes, they all say both "RES" and "SUN".
Also, the teck cable has a red stripe wire, a blue stripe wire, a black wire and a bare ground wire.
Which one is the neutral?
>you could cut that teck cable open and pull the individual conductors back through.
Back through what? What do you mean? Sorry.
>How many bends you got on that conduit?
Only 3 bends.
>Whats the panel side look like?
The cable goes from the conduit entrance on the side of building, goes about 35/40 feet through the joist cavity then comes down into the top of the panel. I have clamps every 4 feet and a clamp on the top plate before it enters the panel.
>Only 3 bends.
Oh wait you mean the conduit. It's only 2 bends.
The cable in total has 3 bends.
The teck connectors will come in a range of sizes. You pick the size to match the outside diameter of teck cable and the threaded part is whatever size you get. That connector you got looks good for your cable, so you'll have to live with the 2" threads. There won't be a connector with 2 1/2 threads that also fits your cable.
Sounds like you already put a 2 1/2 hole in your meter. You'll have to get bushing to make it fit.
If you cut back your PVC pipe 6" or something, you can fit that teck connector on and be good. It's kinda weird running that much pipe, but it's legal. Same thing on the panel end. Cut the PVC short and use a connector to terminate it into your panel.
I'll take some pics of my setup in the morning. It's teck, with PVC sleeves on each.
>That connector you got looks good for your cable, so you'll have to live with the 2" threads.
Damn okay this just got more complicated.
Also I think this fitting may be wrong due to the fact I have 4/0 cable and the fitting is far too big for the cable. All of the ones I see online are smaller.
>Sounds like you already put a 2 1/2 hole in your meter. You'll have to get bushing to make it fit.
What are they called exactly?
Reducing washers?
>If you cut back your PVC pipe 6" or something, you can fit that teck connector on and be good.
I want to continue PVC to the meter and not have the PVC stop at the certain point with cable sticking out before it enters the panel because it will look stupid.
I mean maybe I could just have the PVC sit next to the teck fitting and not be connected and put caulking around it or something.
Would that work?
>Same thing on the panel end.
The PVC only enters the building around 8 inches then it's just straight cable to the panel.
Thanks I'm going with blue and taping it white.
>You buy one of those mast kits? Comes with rigid schedule 40 pipe for the mast section, and then you use thinner EMT to connect to meter?
Yes I bought one of those.
>Make sure you use lag bolts into solid blocking or framing.
Yes I am using Lag bolts.
Just going to suggest using duct seal rather than caulking to prevent moisture getting in the PVC, you shouldn't have to put any around the connector itself, just where the bell-end of the conduit meets the cable connector.
In addition, try using white heat shrink tubing rather than white electrical tape over the cable you designate as neutral for a cleaner look.
You can make any of the colour's as neutral, I would choose blue, that would be most normal.
You make it a neutral by re-marking it with white electrical tape. Pic rel.
You need to mark your neutral wire coming out of the mast the same way. Wrap it one end to the other with white tape.
I'll take some pics for you tomorrow AM when the sun is up. There is a good pic in in the PS Knight book that shows exactly how to build a service entrance. I'll see if I can find my book and get a pic.
-did you use anti ox compound?
-where will the overhead wires attach, on the mast, or a hook on the wall?
-strap spacing is important
-ground plate or rods?
-panel in the house.. you got arc fault breakers and all that other gay new shit?
Will talk in the AM
>PS Knight book
I would totally spend time reading that, I'm just in a pinch right now and time is crutial.
>-did you use anti ox compound?
Not yet, I plan on using it and torqueing to proper spec.
>-where will the overhead wires attach, on the mas
Yes on a mast. I plan on having it 3 1/2 feet from the top of my roof. It's a slightly sloped flat roof.
>-strap spacing is important
Yes, I looked into that, I'm putting 3 straps for the mast, equally spaced apart and the top one as high as I can do it.
>-ground plate or rods?
2 ground rods placed 10 feet apart with 6AWG wire.
>-panel in the house.. you got arc fault breakers and all that other gay new shit?
Yes.
>Will talk in the AM
Thanks bro!
You buy one of those mast kits? Comes with rigid schedule 40 pipe for the mast section, and then you use thinner EMT to connect to meter?
Make sure you use lag bolts into solid blocking or framing. The same wimpy wood screws you can use for other conduit straps won't cut it for the mast. You can't just screw to the plywood sheathing, it needs to be in framing.
obligatory don't forget noalox on all aluminum connections
Noalox does nothing. Virtually all hot elements past the conductor are aluminum and yet nobody puts noalox on them, only where the wire touches the terminal, which is irrational. It’s boomer voodoo which was dropped from the code book a decade ago
Neutral and Ground are either bonded or not in this panel depending on whether this is the main disconnect. Is this for a house or your garage or what?
If you have another panel or disconnect upstream from this (such as a "farm pole" in the yard, or another main panel in the house, or sometimes a small breaker/disconnect panel mounted under the meter) then you should be running this one as a sub panel using 4 conductors: two hots, a neutral, and a ground. You would then ensure the ground and neutrals are NOT bonded in this subpanel. In this case, you would remove that copper bonding strap on the top left of your panel.
If this panel is to act as the main disconnect, then you WILL bond the ground and neutral-- but ONLY here in this panel, and nowhere else downstream.
You'll get a lot of morons telling you that the distinction doesn't matter or that they are the same etc etc. Disregard them. This is 100% something that will get your inspection failed if you do it incorrectly. If you want a little more info --and with no disrespect intended, you clearly need it-- then read the first hundred pages of the book "Wiring Simplified"
It will teach you everything you need to know to wire a house safely and effectively and get your inspection passed the first time. The book is available in pdf format on internet archive, or you can find it on Anna's Archive.
>t. I've installed about a half dozen panels like this and have all passed inspection
hi op here. ive do screws tighten if you go clockwise or counter clockwise? also how long of a screwdriver should i use and how many turns to make a screw tight.
just here to talk about neutrals. Yes they can hurt you, ive seen the danger dog when a circuit is open somewhere between the neutral wire from the load and the neutral bus on the panel. This results in 110V (or whatever) present on the neutral wire on the load side
>I'm installing this panel and I'm not an electrician
why does PrepHole enable people like this
>NOOOOOOOOOOOOO YOU MUST PAY FOR THOUSANDS OF DOLLAR FOR SOMETHING YOU CAN DO TO CODE BY WATCHING A YOUTUBE VIDEO NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
frick off homosexual
I agree that it does take some research first, but I'm an amateur DIYnosaur and I've installed several panels like these and never failed an inspection yet. It's not rocket science just because you have no idea how they work.
Perhaps you would feel more comfortable on
or
Meant to post this morning, been busy.
Personally I would have cut the pipe lower, but it wasn't my install.
yeah that's what I plan on doing but I'm going to make the pvc flush with the fitting and put caulking around it
leaf gay? cool
No need to seal it at all. Teck cable is waterproof already. The only reason you see it in PVC pipe is for damage protection.
Here's a service box I wired yesterday. You have the correct idea, but you need a ground on one side instead of 2 neutrals. You need to install a ground rod with a bare copper wire and run it to one side you have marked as "neutral." Also, your main breaker doesn't look very legit. Are you sure that's a complete service box?
In some places you need 2 6ft apart with a continuous ground wire.
If you think for a second that you can judge whether a main breaker looks "legit" while posting this god awful monstrosity, you need to seriously reevaluate your life. That is some straight up Black personish shit. The fricking bee-lining of the UNMARKED WIRES is some real rent-a-bum "I work for Tradesmen" shit. When they're not bee-lined, they're doing some fricking loopy-dee-loop, silly straw bullshit, crossing over each other with complete disregard of each other.
I know why you knocked out the fricking 2 1/2" (or 3", I can't tell with this fricking 2007 cell phone pic quality) instead of just, oh idk, HUNG THE BOX IN THE RIGHT SPOT. Your sheer incompetence is making me regret that I have to live in a world where people like you can touch my sacred trade. You should either commit sudoku or go immediately apologize to either the homeowner, the business owner, or your fricking boss. Every time I look at this image, I see somewhere else you fricked up. The fricking bare copper wire going through a fricking screw hole to god knows where. The one going up to the top left of the box better fricking not be doing the same shit as the one I mentioned prior. The THHN, which 100% does not look to be 3/0 or 4/0. It looks like you took some spare #2 and said "frick it".
I'll give you the benefit of the doubt and presume that since the neutral bar (or A/B phase bar cause THEY'RE NOT FRICKING IDENTIFIED) doesn't look like its bonded, that this has a main breaker that's smaller than the 200A (can't tell from pic quality) that is serving as the actual breaker. I'll also give you the benefit of the doubt and assume that you didn't have a hammer drill and spare tapcons to remount the box properly. I'll give you a final benefit of the doubt and assume that your Black person-tier boss who okay'd this shit refused to drive to lowes or home depot or whatever handyman hardware store and get you a connector. You should have had better standards.
I'm not really mad, I'm disappointed.
This is the ground I mentioned you'll need.