I'm getting ready to paint a house I'm buying. Guy that owned it before smoked.
So I was gonna primer with killz and then paint. This is probably a really moronic question but is it OK to primer and then use a paint primer combo on top of it? Was gonna use valspar and had read the ultra allows for easier cleaning then the paint with no primer mixed in
>paint & primer
This is generally just to increase the price and trick people into skipping steps.
Cleaning ability has most to do with which sheen you choose imo. I could breath on flat paint and permanently discolor it vs probably just wipe crayon off a gloss.
Ok won't get flat then (though I doubt my wife would want flat anyway).
Thanks
Eggshell is where it’s at for most areas, gloss in bathrooms.
You don't need a primer, just tell the paint counter to put a shot of black in it.
my goal is to kill the smell of the smoke. obviously it will remain some after the fact due to the air system but im hoping to cut down on it and id read primer is supposed to help seal up the nictoene that has soaked into the walls
I would recommend cleaning the surfaces first with TSP, use chemical gloves with it. An oil based primer should be fine for sealing in anything from cigarette smoke to oil stains in the kitchen and piss stains in the bathroom. I suggest the TSP though because even with a good oil primer like kilz some stains can be stubborn so the more you can clean off before coating the better plus TSP promotes adhesion as does a clean surface. Is everything in the house painted already or is there Stained wood? Stained wood needs scuff sanding before priming and painting
Careful if you clean with TSP: it will strip the tar and nicotine, and one drop of that stuff gets on your skin and you will OD on it.
Rent an ozone generator, they use it at crime scenes to get the smell out.
Don’t shoot blacks if you are white. They tend to riot.
first thoroughly wash and rinse the walls, use TSP. Go to paint counter and they will sell you the right primer/paint combo.
What’s the consensus on all the different Kilz? I was overwhelmed last time I used it, patched some drywall that got fricked by a leak so went with the green one, but the blue #2 and the red seemed to be the most popular.
So priming bare drywall and then latex paint, what do you go with?
It really depends on what you're painting. I'm probably never gonna buy Kilz again. A lot of people have had problems with that brand. In particular, it can have trouble drying properly or the water-based just doesn't block stains or smells. This is especially true on cabinets. Under no circumstances should you ever try to Kilz some cabinets. They might never dry.
If you actually need to block some nasty shit on a wall or something you need to go oil-based or shellac-based. Shellac is great because it is a durable substance and the alcohol they use in the shellac-based product will actually help kill anything living on the material you are painting and it will dry very quickly, which is very important because you can frick up a paint job really bad if you layer over primer or paint that is not ready for the next coat. This is especially true if you are putting it on thick. Sometimes oil-based and water-based primers have trouble drying. If we were still putting lead in oil-based paint, then that would be tough. Old lead paint was really nice stuff.
At the rec of a home depot paint huffer I've used Kilz Resto on some raw pine, painted over it with white semi and it looked great. Then a week later all the knots bled through and now months later they look like absolute ass. I know I should have gone oil based and the red and black have always treated me well in other application, I just thought I'd try something new since this guy claimed it was the best for stopping knots from bleeding through and acted like he knew what he was talking about and it was something I wasn't experienced with. Zinnser has always been good to me as well
Use oil kilz (red label) to prime, multipro flat for the ceilings and diamond for the trim and walls. Valspar is ass unless you want to spend $300 a fiver. I've used valspar ultra before myself hearing that it's good, only because the customer chose valspar colors, and that shit was basically colored water. Never again.
I should add also Incase you don't already know that the standard sheens are flat on ceilings, semigloss on trim/doors and eggshell for walls
Prep is 90% of the job. Anyone can slap paint on. The quality of prep determines quality and longevity of your paint job. Like another anon said, clean with TSP and then rinse. If you like the texture and if the walls are in good condition, then move on to painting. If you want a particular texture, now is the time to apply it. Repair the walls and trim before you begin any painting.
Then go to a real paint store.
If the walls are already painted, just use paint, no primer. Paint adheres best to paint. Primer goes on any bare, unpainted surfaces like holes you fill and whatnot. Primer isn't nearly as nice to look at or touch. You want a painted surface, not a primed surface. They put primer in paints now so you can do a slap a shitty paint job on in a hurry.
In general, you paint in this order: ceiling > walls > trim. You generally want a matte for ceilings, satin for walls and a satin or semi-gloss for trim. Except in bathrooms and kitchens, you want to use satin and semi-gloss respectively in them.
Don't use Kilz water-based primer. If you insist on Kilz, go oil-based or something else. The Kilz reputation is based on the old oil-based recipe, which they don't make anymore anyway. I would go with Zinsser Bin primer, although it depends on the paint you are going to use. The new alkyd paints, which are oil suspended in water are really nice. You get the best of both worlds: oil and water-based. Plus they harden up and become very durable once they cure. Latex paints (water-based) stay soft for a really long time and are comparatively fragile.
This is all assuming you're interested in doing a good job that will last a long time, feel good and look good. If you just want to slap paint on for the sake of a new color, then just do whatever you were gonna do because it doesn't really matter.
If you're interested in paint application tactics, I can write out my take. Otherwise, good luck.
>If you're interested in paint application tactics, I can write out my take.
Not OP but I'd be interested. I have a couple rooms that I'd like to paint just because I don't like the color (one's cerulean blue, the other aquamarine?). Curious how hard it'd be to actually physically apply the paint well, my main goal is that it look nice, my bar for longevity is probably pretty low.
Also, my current paint doesn't have a great finish, picrel. I'm guessing this is a bad (?) drywall repair, and it'd be more or less just as visible after another coat of paint?
It'd look a lot less noticable after a new paint job because the gloss/sheen would all match but you'd still have the flat spot where your missing texture.
Do it, you can buy behr "premium" for $30 a gallon, get it in eggshell not flat or gloss etc. Tape off your baseboards and paint with a brush your outline of each wall, after that just roll it on.
The biggest thing I never see people suggest is swapping out your roller every 30-60 minutes, clean it thoroughly and keep going. After paint is caked on your roller that's where you get shitty work. Watch some youtube videos, and you'll be good
Getting rid of smoke smell is very challenging.
Get rid of any fabrics. That means all the carpet has to go, any curtains, etc. Throw out absolutely everything in the house. I would then take bleach and some sponges and a mop and bleach the absolute frick out of the house, walls floors, ceilings everything. Only thing there is don't get bleach on wood or other surfaces that will be damaged by bleach. Wipe everything down with water after, cleaning it up.
Then I would rent an ozone machine and ozone the house for a couple days. Then yes, use a roller and Kilz and roller all the painted surfaces. Then paint. Good luck
we bought a house that was a smoker house. all we did was remove the carpet, have a painter prime with kilz and then paint the color we wanted. that was all that was needed.
Depends how bad it is, it can get in the vents too which is nasty. I think oil kilz + paint is the first step and if that doesn't do it, I agree an ozone machine can work decently. If it's in the vents they'll need to be cleaned or flat out replaced.
it was pretty bad, you could see what was on the walls and what had been on the carpet. there were places where the carpet was white and the rest war brownish yellow.
the painter said he had to do 3 coats in some places.