I want to attach a TV bracket to a brick wall. I need to drill 4 ~5.5cm long holes.

I want to attach a TV bracket to a brick wall. I need to drill 4 ~5.5cm long holes. I've only got this cordless combi drill (Bosch PSB1800, pic rel).
It's easy to start drilling but once I'm about an inch in it takes forever to drill anything (plus last time the battery died on me mid-drill).

The drill apparently has a hammer mode but the thing doesn't seem to be doing anything. I've drilled one hole so far and it was a massive pain in the ass.
Am I a huge pussy or do I just need a proper hammer drill to drill these holes in? I'm using a 10mm masonry bit, apparently it's the max size this drill will do for anything else other than wood
I also don't want to frick up the hole by trying to push the thing in too much and have it go to the side and frick up

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  1. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    The hammer means impact drill, not hammer drill on these afaik.

    You need a real hammer drill especially for a 10mm bit in bricks. The cheap hikoki SDS is amazing and last forever

    • 1 month ago
      Bepis

      Hammer drill is an impact drill in Yuro speak.

      10mm in a cheap hammer drill is going to be real slow going without stepping up to an SDS. As long as you’re not hitting big chunks of hard aggregate, you should get it.

      Try a pilot hole. See if like a 3mm bit goes in, then jump to a 6mm for the same hole and knock the rest out with the 10mm.

      • 1 month ago
        Anonymous

        Ah I didn't know this was an impact drill in Burger (i.e. I mean the one that hammers the bit back and forth to help pulverize whatever you're drilling through)

        Thank you for the pilot hole idea, I didn't think of doing it like that. It definitely felt like the further in I got the harder it was to keep drilling.

        https://i.imgur.com/D7iqv92.png

        Makes me glad I opted for a corded drill years ago, having said that I thought this was a piece of shit at first until I tried some actually quality drill bits on it, hope that's your case.

        it's the bit that came with the set, seems alright quality (but I might not even know the difference)

        • 1 month ago
          Bepis

          It’s a “hammer drill” in burger. “Impact drill” isn’t a thing here. “impact driver” is the thing you use to drive the screws in.

          How does the masonry bit look? Is the carbide tip still in ok shape? Hopefully you didn’t burn it up and somehow knock the tip off, try the smaller size first for sure.

          Also depending on the masonry and anchor type, I like to start with a hole one size smaller than the box of anchors recommends because sometimes the concrete or whatever plus the hand drill wobbles a bit and a 10mm drill bit could leave an 11mm or 12mm hole and a wobbly anchor. If you’re stepping up in bit size, def see if your anchors fit with an 8mm or 9mm hole drilled before you go the full 10mm and the fit is too loose.

          • 1 month ago
            Anonymous

            ah thank you, that's a good idea, I'll try with 8/9mm, whatever I have in the set. I definitely had a bit of a wobble on the bit too, the first hole isn't perfect (but not too bad either)

            I think the tip is alright, I tried to give it time to cool down since it took me a few tries to get that one done.

            try a masonry bit instead of that phillips driver

            yessir

        • 1 month ago
          Anonymous

          also sometimes you have bad luck and hit a piece of aggregate, depends on your concrete of course but drilling through a granite pebble sucks fricking ass.

      • 1 month ago
        Anonymous

        No it’s not, we call a hammer drill a hammer drill or knocking drill, and an impact is called a beating nut tightener

        > Try a pilot hole. See if like a 3mm bit goes in, then jump to a 6mm for the same hole and knock the rest out with the 10mm.
        Don’t do this you’ll break the 3mm

        • 1 month ago
          Anonymous

          Why would it break the 3mm?

          • 1 month ago
            Këbin Vann Damm

            Because dumb anons are incapable of drilling with a bit that small without snapping it?

            Also tiny bit sizes are real consumables, that’s why it’s super common to see multi-packs of 1/8” bits over here in Burgerstan. You don’t really see 5pks of 3/8”+ bits in stores.

          • 1 month ago
            Anonymous

            Because moulded bricks contain gravel aggregate and when you try and push a small bit through it will eventually get the spiral caught on a gravel piece and snap right off. Most people I know have tried this at some point in their life (usually when they were students) and found out the hard way. But it’s okay if you haven’t

      • 1 month ago
        Anonymous

        It’s a “hammer drill” in burger. “Impact drill” isn’t a thing here. “impact driver” is the thing you use to drive the screws in.

        How does the masonry bit look? Is the carbide tip still in ok shape? Hopefully you didn’t burn it up and somehow knock the tip off, try the smaller size first for sure.

        Also depending on the masonry and anchor type, I like to start with a hole one size smaller than the box of anchors recommends because sometimes the concrete or whatever plus the hand drill wobbles a bit and a 10mm drill bit could leave an 11mm or 12mm hole and a wobbly anchor. If you’re stepping up in bit size, def see if your anchors fit with an 8mm or 9mm hole drilled before you go the full 10mm and the fit is too loose.

        No it’s not, we call a hammer drill a hammer drill or knocking drill, and an impact is called a beating nut tightener

        > Try a pilot hole. See if like a 3mm bit goes in, then jump to a 6mm for the same hole and knock the rest out with the 10mm.
        Don’t do this you’ll break the 3mm

        While your drill is shit, it should manage a 8-10mm hole. Make sure the bit you're using is right for the material you're drilling, there are "masonry" bits that are more for ceramics than concrete. Presumably you're going into concrete if it's so hard to drill through.
        The hammer drill setting should emit a fairly loud buzzing-like sound if it's working, that's the lengthwise hammering, if it's not doing that, you're either not applying enough pressure or the drill is faulty.

        OP here, just a follow-up. I managed to get this done with the small drill. I did a pilot hole with 8mm first, followed up with the 10mm. I don't really know why but the other 3 holes were far easier to drill through. The pilot hole idea worked really well so thank you
        I'm not too happy with the holes overall (only one ended up nice) because the drill was quite wobbly

        thank you anons for your suggestions and help

        • 1 month ago
          Bepperoni

          You probably hit some aggregate on that first hole. Shit sucks. Good job for making it through all 4 and not getting killed.

  2. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    Makes me glad I opted for a corded drill years ago, having said that I thought this was a piece of shit at first until I tried some actually quality drill bits on it, hope that's your case.

  3. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    try a masonry bit instead of that phillips driver

  4. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    While your drill is shit, it should manage a 8-10mm hole. Make sure the bit you're using is right for the material you're drilling, there are "masonry" bits that are more for ceramics than concrete. Presumably you're going into concrete if it's so hard to drill through.
    The hammer drill setting should emit a fairly loud buzzing-like sound if it's working, that's the lengthwise hammering, if it's not doing that, you're either not applying enough pressure or the drill is faulty.

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