I removed the blade plate on my mower to sharpen them, once reassembled it seemed a bit noisy while running and the plate had noticeable play, so I tried to tighten it and the bolt snapped. Bolt came out easy enough and had noticably stretched threads where it snapped.
I put a new bolt in and reassembled with blue Loctite and no play, but after a few mows it's noisy and has play again.
What do?
Are you torquing that bolt properly, or just giving it all she's got?
I crossthreaded it with loctite, it may as well be welded in place
>I crossthreaded it with loctite, it may as well be welded in place
damn we get some morons here. this is classic.
It’s a lawnmower, the bolt is self tightening. If it’s coming loose after normal tightening and mowing, obviously something else is the matter. Why do you morons even bother posting?
I know a thing or two about mowers, pal
Well done bro. You sure showed lawn mower Inc.
Also why are you mowing your lawn in winter
It’s part of my weekly routine.
Not op
I am just sending it with a rattle gun and blue Loctite, but maybe the answer is to use red loctite.
I'm using the original washers, but maybe I should slap new ones on as they may be compressed
I thought maybe this style had a common issue of bending so it doesn't sit properly. But I think I will try some new washers and stronger Loctite. I'm just holding the plate with pliers and sending it with a rattle gun, how am I supposed to be torquing it without it spinning?
> how do i torque it without it spinning?
You use a cheap bauer 1/2" battery impact and go easy on the trigger. Torque is a 'feel' thing, best done by knowing
A) What is the strength of the bolt? Thickness? Age? Hardness rating? Fine or Coarse thread?
B) What is the material going into? Steel? Aluminium?
C) Was copper paste applied (anti-seize) and how does that particular compound affect 'side'?
D) Are there any lockwashers that will compress or grab?
Any mowers I've worked on, had fingers so the shaft was locked to the blade, the bolt was only a blade retainer; it by itself did not lock the shaft to the blade. It would be a poor design that would forever slip if it was only a single bolt.
*slide not side.
this.
Op:
Put a small round object parallel with ground protruding off the edge of e.g. a bench, like a round shaft screwdriver, or drill bit, and see if the blade tends to go down on either side (rotating) when hung on that round shaft as a pivot, and starting parallel to the ground. Does one end dip? That end has too much material. It's common that the blade 'catches' a rock but only on one side, leading to a slight loss of material and imbalance, and further loss when a sharpening pass removes more material.
> winter
he might be an actor
> tinfoil
Probably a nordlock over split in critical high vibration apps.
>I am just sending it with a rattle gun
Yep checks out, he's fricking moronic.
This is why I do my own winter tire changes.
make sure those blades are moving freely
if one of them is stuck, it might disbalance the whole head, leading to shaking and eventually breaking something
Did you balance it after sharpening? If it's off balance it's wobbling around while spinning and probably wearing out the bolts.
get your tinfoil hat out of here, moron
lol, look folks, it's a rare dumbassosaurus rex.
Hey guys, boomer dad decided to post
Doesn't make it any less true snowflake
you are the snowflake here, dumbass
the fact that someone on the internet said lock washers doesn't work, doesn't mean he is correct
also you are eating shit of two persons here
>experts say
Came here to post this
Just keep adding washings until no wobble. The wobble is going to be what fricks your bolt also. Any slack is going to cause shock force, especially on an abrupt stop
washers
that's the strangest mower blade I've ever seen.
going to guess you didn't balance it after sharpening