I have the opposite experience
I bought a whole bag of those tools on 2016 for almost nothing at a black friday sale
That stuff has held up all this time and even one of the batteries is still good.
They paid for themselves 10 times over
You should not be forcing a tool like that.
Slow down anon , dont be in a rush because this is not a pro grade tool.
Also sounds like your jacobs chuck might be greasy
I have the opposite experience
I bought a whole bag of those tools on 2016 for almost nothing at a black friday sale
That stuff has held up all this time and even one of the batteries is still good.
They paid for themselves 10 times over
The answer is right there. Buy a big bag of tools for cheap. That's the point of Ryobi. Cheap, occasionally used tools. If you find one tool like the drill you are using a lot, then buy the better brushless variety with more power.
>This drill won't do anything at full force
This is how I know you're full of shit. The drill bit is what does the work, numbskull. I know it's not going to be as fast or weigh less than a dewalt, but fricks sake you get two for the price of one dewalt, sometimes 3 depending on what consumer holiday it is.
I have the opposite experience
I bought a whole bag of those tools on 2016 for almost nothing at a black friday sale
That stuff has held up all this time and even one of the batteries is still good.
They paid for themselves 10 times over
I have quite the lineup of ryobis and the only ones that suck are the jigsaw, and circular. Their little battery miter saw is nice though, the drills/impacts I cannot kill which is nice now that I have more than one. I can dedicate one for mixing paint/concrete and have two others for several bit/drilling size work. They used to make unbreakable sawzalls but I've noticed their quality go down. I like their lights and that cordless fan of theirs I've used to hell and back.
No, you're not supposed to accept your buyers remorse what the frick are you doing? Overdose on copium and obsessively shitpost about how satisfied you are with your purchasing decisions like everyone else
Good on you Bepis, sounds like you have a good head on your shoulders.
You knew you couldnt afford to buy Milwaukee, and instead of your first instinct which was to buy M12 (much like you bought the 12v ridgid first), you admitted you couldnt afford it.
Im proud of your emerging self awareness.
Kek, I admitted I wanted to return the Ridgid 12V like 2 weeks after I bought it because the M12 drill and driver kit went on sale for $30 more with a free tool like the hackzall or ratchet. That was the start of my obsession going from fishin lures to German screwdrivers.
I had a bunch of 18V DeWalt and those couple Menard’s Masterforce tools at that point, but I wanted an impact driver with a fresh battery. Also I impulse bought that on my lunch break.
They’re still going strong though. I got my money’s worth from the impact driver.
>m12 fuel
I got the impact / drill kit on sale after getting a maintenance job at an apartment complex.
Wanted them because it keeps the tool bag lighter and I sometimes have to get into a tight space.
Obviously you wouldn't want to build a deck with the 12v line, but I've been surprised by the capability of the impact driver. I thought I'd still be using my 18v quite a bit and almost never do.
Yea you bought them for small mobile jobs but still have 18V for when needed, that’s where they make sense. 12V impact driver is straight if you’re a maintenance guy pulling covers off panels all day, but if you need to do some plumbing work and need to hack off part of a cast iron pipe, that M12 hackzall is going to get spicy hot.
How are all your tools so clean in all your photos, do you wash them after every use?
>after every use
No, more like before every photo shoot.
Why not just grow a pair and use 18v for everything, it's not like the tool footprint is actually any smaller and the weight difference issue can be solved by not being a pussy
18V subcompact stuff sort of solves that. Best of both worlds and the 12V stuff with a 6 cell pack is actually larger than the subcompact with a 5 cell pack
12V with slide packs make no sense, but a couple M12 tools with the battery in the handle do still look useful. The M12 ratchets, dremel tool, soldering iron are much more ergonomic without an 18V slide pack hanging off.
The 12V shit is still useful for mechanic work. 12V impact driver is great for 8mm and 10mm shit in the engine bay. But buying a 12V stubby impact wrench because you heard 1/2” impacts are good for wrenching on cars is pretty dumb.
Also I don’t own a Ryobi drill. The only real Ryobi 18V tool I own is the 5.5” circular saw my neighbor gave me for free because the switch crapped out on him.
It works bretty gud for plywood and shit. Still no complaints on the Ryobi stuff. I would consider more of their HP shit, father in law has the HP jigsaw and it’s nice, exactly the same as the Ridgid that is $50 more.
Cordless skillsaws come with a bottle of K.Y. Jelly you have to apply to the .01 mm thick 3.5” diameter blade, or it stalls out in 1/4” balsa wood and catches fire.
I’m on the fence about snagging the Ridgid 6.5” or 7.25” next time I have a couple extra bucks and I see a good deal. The 6.5” brushless guy with the magnesium shoe feels nice. And if you stick a modern 4.0Ah+ battery on the things, it’s nothing like the old NiCd DeWalt XRP saws.
Some of those bigger rear handle saws with an 8.0 high output pack are beating out old school corded saws. Even that cheap ass Ryobi 5.5” will go through a 2x4.
> last time used ryobi skillsaw
Let me put it this way… it’s blue not green, and it wasn’t worth buying a new nicad pack for it. And it sure as shit ain’t worth it now.
The only thing that is useful for is if you dont’t have a pickup truck, you can cut things to fit in your little grocery getter in the home depot parking lot.
That’s my point. Brushless motors and big lithium packs made cordless circular saws useful. Even early lithium was a bit of a compromise with 1.5Ah packs and brushed motors, but the newest stuff is pretty much a replacement for corded if you wanted.
[...]
The answer is right there. Buy a big bag of tools for cheap. That's the point of Ryobi. Cheap, occasionally used tools. If you find one tool like the drill you are using a lot, then buy the better brushless variety with more power.
This is the caveat I give when I shill Ryobi. Get the HP versions for the stuff you are going to use nearly every weekend. And for the tools a homeowner might only need once or twice a year like a 1/4” trim router to hang a door, it’s nice to have a basic Ryobi option for $60-$70 instead of having to shell out $200 for a Milwaukee that’s built to be abused multiple days a week.
Like my babby Ryobi chainsaw, that thing was $99. I don’t use a chainsaw enough to maintain some Stihl farm boss, but I have buried the whole bar of that Ryobi in the base of some palms and she kept running.
1 year ago
Anonymous
>in the base of some palms
those aren't even trees lol. this is a bad example
1 year ago
Bepis
It was a good size palm tree. I mention the base because it was wide as hell there and the whole blade was in the damn tree and kept running when I thought I would stall the thing. I used it on some decent size limbs on a mango tree and this poinciana and also a super fricking hardwood tree that would drive me crazy when I tried to get at it with the manual pole saw.
Suburban homeowner isn’t felling giant trees like some homesteader in Alaska, and the Ryobi is enough to get that homeowner shit done.
1 year ago
Anonymous
>enough to get that homeowner shit done
That's my take. If you aren't using the tools to earn a living, then consumer grade shit is sufficient.
1 year ago
Anonymous
Contractor grade is consumer grade now. These tools aren't running 60 years later like heirloom Craftsman products.
1 year ago
Anonymous
The Craftsmen products still running were rarely in continuous use, beware of survivor bias.
1 year ago
Anonymous
My tablesaw works great. Youtube meme intellectualism doesn't apply here.
1 year ago
Anonymous
Why would you want to? In 60 years the latest tools will shit on the current tools and only boomers will care about current tools.
1 year ago
Anonymous
>those aren't even trees lol. this is a bad example
Not that guy, but big deal. I have the little Ryobi chainsaw at work that gets taken out once in a blue moon to trim bigger limbs off of overgrown trees. That's what it was basically made for.
I got 3x 3ah batteries and just started buying the bare tools.
I love all my Ryobi stuff aside from the 2 drills.
That's just in comparison to my old DeWalt. They both function just fine, just a lacking design.
You can't one hand release bits on the impact driver. The DeWalt I can change a bit with 1 hand.
The light on the Ryobi is on the base above the battery which gives better coverage than the DeWalt light which is under the chuck. However, the light doesn't activate on the Ryobi until the drill is turning. The DeWalt light can be activated by the trigger before the drill kicks on, thus light to be able to see where your bit is going before you start drilling.
Really happy with the power output on the Ryobi angle grinder though. The jigsaw has a really sweet design too. With the right blade you can cut super tight angles with it.
>Really happy with the power output on the Ryobi angle grinder though
My brushless Ryobi grinder died not much more than a year of owning it. I'm extremely pissed, because I used it all the time, but it wasn't cheap and I don't want to pay for it twice. The replacement controllers are as expensive as the entire fricking grinder (right to repair pls save me) but I also don't want to hassle with hacking in my own when I have so many other projects that I'm trying to catch up on.
1 year ago
Anonymous
>I'm extremely pissed, because I used it all the time
I use all my cordless stuff for spot-fixes when I'm away from the house. I keep them all in my bed box. I have corded stuff I keep at home.
So the 18ga nailer is perfect if I'm just replacing a few feet of baseboard or casing 1 door. I don't have to drag my air comp along with me.
I want to share my good fortune frens. I have makita cordless tools. I went by a garage sale yesterday and it was mostly junk but they had a lone makita 36v string trimmer with four 5ah batteries and a double charger. I gave them $200 for the entire set. Pretty happy with that! I didn't even care about the string trimmer I've got a two stroke Stihl I'm happy with but those batteries are $125 each new and now I've got two double chargers. I guess I can just have two different trimmer heads ready to go as well
Yeah you figure out quick the batteries are what you're really paying for. When you learn how to 'jump start' them once they won't hold a charge anymore, saves you a lot of $$$.
1 year ago
Anonymous
https://i.imgur.com/OVWUPSx.jpg
That’s my point. Brushless motors and big lithium packs made cordless circular saws useful. Even early lithium was a bit of a compromise with 1.5Ah packs and brushed motors, but the newest stuff is pretty much a replacement for corded if you wanted.
[...]
This is the caveat I give when I shill Ryobi. Get the HP versions for the stuff you are going to use nearly every weekend. And for the tools a homeowner might only need once or twice a year like a 1/4” trim router to hang a door, it’s nice to have a basic Ryobi option for $60-$70 instead of having to shell out $200 for a Milwaukee that’s built to be abused multiple days a week.
Like my babby Ryobi chainsaw, that thing was $99. I don’t use a chainsaw enough to maintain some Stihl farm boss, but I have buried the whole bar of that Ryobi in the base of some palms and she kept running.
https://i.imgur.com/5PRtZQe.jpg
>Never listen to PrepHole
ftfy
Also I don’t own a Ryobi drill. The only real Ryobi 18V tool I own is the 5.5” circular saw my neighbor gave me for free because the switch crapped out on him.
It works bretty gud for plywood and shit. Still no complaints on the Ryobi stuff. I would consider more of their HP shit, father in law has the HP jigsaw and it’s nice, exactly the same as the Ridgid that is $50 more.
https://i.imgur.com/uV2wx7H.jpg
This. Act like somebody who bought M12 because they wanted to be in the Fuel crew for <$200 and now they can’t even remove a lug nut.
oh look a bunch of tools with zero use, what a great opinion you have
https://i.imgur.com/nl0plRb.png
I regret buying this.
Should have spent a little more.
if you want the best impact out there for continuous use for driving screws into wood and framing get the Milwaukee Surge, it has oil in with the anvil and it makes it quiet which is absolutely amazing for long periods of driving fasteners, also batteries are really great, beats the shit out of the Bosch I had
1 year ago
Anonymous
>oh look a bunch of tools with zero use, what a great opinion you have
I use all my cordless stuff al the time. Maybe you just have zero skills?
1 year ago
Anonymous
>Maybe you just have zero skills?
https://i.imgur.com/Bh0ZtiF.jpg
[...]
Also nobody here is recommending Ryobi in a professional woodshop where you’re using them 40+ hours a week.
>so unused
>look at me I changed a brake pad!
nice, some of us get paid to use our tools, believe it or not
1 year ago
Bepis
>not a brake job
https://i.imgur.com/oqkO7iv.jpg
>Should have spent a little more.
Correct.
Should have gone for the 1/2 inch.
Goddamn that’s cheap for the 3/8”. Also you can easily find big bits with 1/4” shanks.
I have come across a hole saw arbor or two that doesn’t like the 3/8” chuck on my 12v drill though.
1 year ago
Anonymous
>>not a brake job
moar liek a break job lol
1 year ago
Bepis
>oh look a bunch of tools with zero use, what a great opinion you have
I use all my cordless stuff al the time. Maybe you just have zero skills?
Also nobody here is recommending Ryobi in a professional woodshop where you’re using them 40+ hours a week.
>so unused
1 year ago
Anonymous
Somewhat true.
I just charge double and work half the hours.
But what do I know...
1 year ago
Anonymous
>if you want the best impact out there for continuous use for driving screws into wood and framing get the Milwaukee Surge, it has oil in with the anvil and it makes it quiet which is absolutely amazing for long periods of driving fasteners, also batteries are really great, beats the shit out of the Bosch I had
love the Surge, makes cute sounds when you use it
The 1+ brushless hammer drill is solid. Their impact drivers are also very good. The standard drill drops bits frequently and is under-powered. I'm sure I could find more reasons I don't like it if I could stand to use that thing.
I got 3x 3ah batteries and just started buying the bare tools.
I love all my Ryobi stuff aside from the 2 drills.
That's just in comparison to my old DeWalt. They both function just fine, just a lacking design.
You can't one hand release bits on the impact driver. The DeWalt I can change a bit with 1 hand.
The light on the Ryobi is on the base above the battery which gives better coverage than the DeWalt light which is under the chuck. However, the light doesn't activate on the Ryobi until the drill is turning. The DeWalt light can be activated by the trigger before the drill kicks on, thus light to be able to see where your bit is going before you start drilling.
Really happy with the power output on the Ryobi angle grinder though. The jigsaw has a really sweet design too. With the right blade you can cut super tight angles with it.
I have no idea, I never register the Ryobi shit because it’s so cheap. I register the Ridgid for the LSA but have yet to use it. I heard Milwaukee is pretty straight and will go off the manufacture date on the tool if you don’t register or have a receipt, so hopefully Ryobi is similar.
i never registered shit in my life becuase reciepts have always been satisfactory. i have the reciept. i heard ryobi warranty used to be no questions asked, then it became super stringet like 2 years ago?
something to do with pandemic?
I want to share my good fortune frens. I have makita cordless tools. I went by a garage sale yesterday and it was mostly junk but they had a lone makita 36v string trimmer with four 5ah batteries and a double charger. I gave them $200 for the entire set. Pretty happy with that! I didn't even care about the string trimmer I've got a two stroke Stihl I'm happy with but those batteries are $125 each new and now I've got two double chargers. I guess I can just have two different trimmer heads ready to go as well
Pay once cry once. The cost over time isn't shit. I'm a mechanic and still use my V28 and M28 (love the Portaband and Sawzalls) Milwaukee tools because they were built with full pre-buyout quality. M28 batteries are expensive but those frickers last. I still have one from 2011 that's worth using.
I don't brandprostitute and also run Makita. Their chainsaw is a fine limbing/homeowner saw and I've dropped many foot thicc trees with mine bought after shoulder replacement meant no gassers for a while. Now the gassers have been unused for years and are just backup. Their 4-1/2" angle grinder runs 6" cutting discs (I modded the guard as those are a key use for me) nicely. I've never had a bad Makita going back to their early corded angle grinders.
I also have a bunch of DeWalt which worked consistently well (avoid their chainsaws tho). I bought a DCF 900 since dragging air hose annoys me and that beast makes my pneumatic impacts pointless.
My (skilled, experienced DIY beast) bro bough a bunch of 12V Milwaukee but rarely uses it. He likes his new Ryobi stuff as much or better.
I see no point in the little stuff unless for very specific repeated little jobs. I never cried myself to sleep over spending a little more since over time the cost per year isn't shit.
My wife uses Ryobi for all her little decoration projects, she is an intermediate diyer and its fine for that.
When we build sheds/decks/fences its always with my Dewalt tools cause Ryobi can't keep up.
Stop buying dogshit drill bits and start using cutting oil. If you do that you can legitimately get away with drilling 3/8 or smaller holes with something as shitty as picrel. Yes drill bits are made of special blend of metals that can withstand higher temperatures but they still dull faster at those temperatures.
You actually end up spending more money on those dogshit drill bits because of how often you end up replacing them. Stop being a fricking pussy and buy a pack of M42 cobalt bits that could potentially last you a decade.
Every time you sharpen drill bits you reduce the next subsequent lifespan because you're stripping away the hardened factory edge and digging into the softer non-hardened portion of the metal you'll end up having to sharpen more and more often over time. It can become a huge hassle. This is why you won't see construction workers use kitchen knives to cut drywall/insulation.
Not just the bits, but how you drill depending on the material.
I lost my 1/8 masonry bit...I think it was Milwaukee. I was on amazon shopping for a new one, reading reviews, and seeing guys complaining their bit broke. >You don't drill into brick/concrete the same as you drill into wood, even with the proper bit.
Standard drills aren't even meant to be used to drill into concrete since they will very slowly grind away material which wears away the carbide tip exponentially faster so you end up overheating the thing so much the brazing material used to bond the carbide to the steel shank melts causing the carbide to wiggle out of place and crack to pieces. This is where that cutting oil would be the most useful in at least preventing the brazing material from becoming putty.
What masonry bits are really supposed to do is chip away large chunks of material away but they need a tool that hammers them hard enough forward for this to happen. SDS rotary hammer drills are the best for this but you can get away hammer drills if you apply enough force forward to reduce the grinding action though I would still prefer to use cutting oil just to be safe.
It has an adjustment on top that allows you to set the breaking power of the drill. If you are having issues with the drill powering through things then pre drill or bust out the impact driver. I have had a ryobi drill for years and it has been able to do everything I have asked it to. It is not a good buy if you are building fences or driving big outdoor wood screws on the daily, but if you had a big job to do or were a professional you would have bought a better quality tool.
then you should have gone for the 5/8ths
then you should have gone for the brushless
then you should have gone for the hammer drill
so on and so forth until all your money is gone
bad carpenters blame their tools. brandwhoring and elitism over which color tool you have is by far the gayest aspect of the construction and diy community. I have a mishmash of tools, including ryobi, that I use extensively in home renovations. I've also seen ryobi drills go through daily use for years without fail when I worked construction. Drills are also the simplest fricking tools, its an electric motor, it spins a bit or drill. There are only three possible ways it can be a piece of shit: 1) the motor outright doesnt work or is so under powered it can't perform any meaningful tasks. 2) It breaks after only a few uses. 3) It's completely un-ergonomic, too heavy, too large, too small etc... I haven't seen ryobi drills do any of the above, so they are perfectly serviceable. Frickin homos need to shutup and build shit. Humans have built cathedrals with nothing but hand tools and here we are complaining about which luxury item is slightly inconvenient
$40 for the tool only hammer drill is hard to argue. I'm an impact drill maximalist; but having a dedicated drill for tile, hole saws, cabinets, cheaper disposable bit indexes, and whatever else is great. I don't think the 3/8 is as underpowered as previous versions but it drops bits like crazy for me. It's still not enough for large hole, spade, or tile boring tasks.
oh, hello. performance within 5%of whichever the number one performer is in class. Lifetime warranty. Crazy seasonal promotions. 36v tools are reaching 18v prices. Former Milwaukee, who switched due to a battery promotion.
i was unironically going to make this post because i just took the metabo pill, paid 170 usd for 2 36v + charger + impact driver. I just missed the battery promo unfortunately but im still happy with the purchase
I’m not down with that yet as a single lineup. Strong impact drivers are quite small these days and you’re stuck with 10 cell packs on them all the time.
>dat balance
Gross. I would def want some M12 tools or something for tighter spots and smaller jobs. I love the 5 cell packs for smaller projects and you’re never going to get a comfy 36V ratchet or oscillating tool unless they make little 1000mAh pouch cells or use babby half length cells.
Yeah i think that im optimistic the entire Hikoki lineup is going to come stateside and support the 36v, I also think that multi volt 21700 celled packs are going to be more popular in the future. The choice for me came down to mostly price. But I did shop the dewalt atomic dcf850 for a bit.
We don't care.
>regret
Nature warned you by making it vomit colored
>We don't care
Also this
I have the opposite experience
I bought a whole bag of those tools on 2016 for almost nothing at a black friday sale
That stuff has held up all this time and even one of the batteries is still good.
They paid for themselves 10 times over
Yeah? This drill won't do anything at full force. It either stops or whatever is in it comes loose
You should not be forcing a tool like that.
Slow down anon , dont be in a rush because this is not a pro grade tool.
Also sounds like your jacobs chuck might be greasy
This. Cryobi is home gamer shit that is for fixing hinges and doing light wife projects. You get what you pay for.
>Also sounds like your jacobs chuck might be greasy
What's the ICD code for that?
The answer is right there. Buy a big bag of tools for cheap. That's the point of Ryobi. Cheap, occasionally used tools. If you find one tool like the drill you are using a lot, then buy the better brushless variety with more power.
>This drill won't do anything at full force
This is how I know you're full of shit. The drill bit is what does the work, numbskull. I know it's not going to be as fast or weigh less than a dewalt, but fricks sake you get two for the price of one dewalt, sometimes 3 depending on what consumer holiday it is.
I have quite the lineup of ryobis and the only ones that suck are the jigsaw, and circular. Their little battery miter saw is nice though, the drills/impacts I cannot kill which is nice now that I have more than one. I can dedicate one for mixing paint/concrete and have two others for several bit/drilling size work. They used to make unbreakable sawzalls but I've noticed their quality go down. I like their lights and that cordless fan of theirs I've used to hell and back.
No, you're not supposed to accept your buyers remorse what the frick are you doing? Overdose on copium and obsessively shitpost about how satisfied you are with your purchasing decisions like everyone else
This. Act like somebody who bought M12 because they wanted to be in the Fuel crew for <$200 and now they can’t even remove a lug nut.
Good on you Bepis, sounds like you have a good head on your shoulders.
You knew you couldnt afford to buy Milwaukee, and instead of your first instinct which was to buy M12 (much like you bought the 12v ridgid first), you admitted you couldnt afford it.
Im proud of your emerging self awareness.
Thats called maturity
Kek, I admitted I wanted to return the Ridgid 12V like 2 weeks after I bought it because the M12 drill and driver kit went on sale for $30 more with a free tool like the hackzall or ratchet. That was the start of my obsession going from fishin lures to German screwdrivers.
I had a bunch of 18V DeWalt and those couple Menard’s Masterforce tools at that point, but I wanted an impact driver with a fresh battery. Also I impulse bought that on my lunch break.
They’re still going strong though. I got my money’s worth from the impact driver.
>m12 fuel
I got the impact / drill kit on sale after getting a maintenance job at an apartment complex.
Wanted them because it keeps the tool bag lighter and I sometimes have to get into a tight space.
Obviously you wouldn't want to build a deck with the 12v line, but I've been surprised by the capability of the impact driver. I thought I'd still be using my 18v quite a bit and almost never do.
Yea you bought them for small mobile jobs but still have 18V for when needed, that’s where they make sense. 12V impact driver is straight if you’re a maintenance guy pulling covers off panels all day, but if you need to do some plumbing work and need to hack off part of a cast iron pipe, that M12 hackzall is going to get spicy hot.
>after every use
No, more like before every photo shoot.
Check out my new Ryobi custom camo colorway
Why not just grow a pair and use 18v for everything, it's not like the tool footprint is actually any smaller and the weight difference issue can be solved by not being a pussy
18V subcompact stuff sort of solves that. Best of both worlds and the 12V stuff with a 6 cell pack is actually larger than the subcompact with a 5 cell pack
12V with slide packs make no sense, but a couple M12 tools with the battery in the handle do still look useful. The M12 ratchets, dremel tool, soldering iron are much more ergonomic without an 18V slide pack hanging off.
How are all your tools so clean in all your photos, do you wash them after every use?
>now they can’t even remove a lug nut.
Someone using M12 for wrenching on anything but electrical sensors is pretty stupid in the first place
The 12V shit is still useful for mechanic work. 12V impact driver is great for 8mm and 10mm shit in the engine bay. But buying a 12V stubby impact wrench because you heard 1/2” impacts are good for wrenching on cars is pretty dumb.
Thats what you get for listening to Bepis. Never listen to tripgays.
>Never listen to PrepHole
ftfy
Also I don’t own a Ryobi drill. The only real Ryobi 18V tool I own is the 5.5” circular saw my neighbor gave me for free because the switch crapped out on him.
It works bretty gud for plywood and shit. Still no complaints on the Ryobi stuff. I would consider more of their HP shit, father in law has the HP jigsaw and it’s nice, exactly the same as the Ridgid that is $50 more.
Cordless skillsaws come with a bottle of K.Y. Jelly you have to apply to the .01 mm thick 3.5” diameter blade, or it stalls out in 1/4” balsa wood and catches fire.
When was the last time you used one?
I’m on the fence about snagging the Ridgid 6.5” or 7.25” next time I have a couple extra bucks and I see a good deal. The 6.5” brushless guy with the magnesium shoe feels nice. And if you stick a modern 4.0Ah+ battery on the things, it’s nothing like the old NiCd DeWalt XRP saws.
Some of those bigger rear handle saws with an 8.0 high output pack are beating out old school corded saws. Even that cheap ass Ryobi 5.5” will go through a 2x4.
> last time used ryobi skillsaw
Let me put it this way… it’s blue not green, and it wasn’t worth buying a new nicad pack for it. And it sure as shit ain’t worth it now.
The only thing that is useful for is if you dont’t have a pickup truck, you can cut things to fit in your little grocery getter in the home depot parking lot.
That’s my point. Brushless motors and big lithium packs made cordless circular saws useful. Even early lithium was a bit of a compromise with 1.5Ah packs and brushed motors, but the newest stuff is pretty much a replacement for corded if you wanted.
This is the caveat I give when I shill Ryobi. Get the HP versions for the stuff you are going to use nearly every weekend. And for the tools a homeowner might only need once or twice a year like a 1/4” trim router to hang a door, it’s nice to have a basic Ryobi option for $60-$70 instead of having to shell out $200 for a Milwaukee that’s built to be abused multiple days a week.
Like my babby Ryobi chainsaw, that thing was $99. I don’t use a chainsaw enough to maintain some Stihl farm boss, but I have buried the whole bar of that Ryobi in the base of some palms and she kept running.
>in the base of some palms
those aren't even trees lol. this is a bad example
It was a good size palm tree. I mention the base because it was wide as hell there and the whole blade was in the damn tree and kept running when I thought I would stall the thing. I used it on some decent size limbs on a mango tree and this poinciana and also a super fricking hardwood tree that would drive me crazy when I tried to get at it with the manual pole saw.
Suburban homeowner isn’t felling giant trees like some homesteader in Alaska, and the Ryobi is enough to get that homeowner shit done.
>enough to get that homeowner shit done
That's my take. If you aren't using the tools to earn a living, then consumer grade shit is sufficient.
Contractor grade is consumer grade now. These tools aren't running 60 years later like heirloom Craftsman products.
The Craftsmen products still running were rarely in continuous use, beware of survivor bias.
My tablesaw works great. Youtube meme intellectualism doesn't apply here.
Why would you want to? In 60 years the latest tools will shit on the current tools and only boomers will care about current tools.
>those aren't even trees lol. this is a bad example
Not that guy, but big deal. I have the little Ryobi chainsaw at work that gets taken out once in a blue moon to trim bigger limbs off of overgrown trees. That's what it was basically made for.
>Really happy with the power output on the Ryobi angle grinder though
My brushless Ryobi grinder died not much more than a year of owning it. I'm extremely pissed, because I used it all the time, but it wasn't cheap and I don't want to pay for it twice. The replacement controllers are as expensive as the entire fricking grinder (right to repair pls save me) but I also don't want to hassle with hacking in my own when I have so many other projects that I'm trying to catch up on.
>I'm extremely pissed, because I used it all the time
I use all my cordless stuff for spot-fixes when I'm away from the house. I keep them all in my bed box. I have corded stuff I keep at home.
So the 18ga nailer is perfect if I'm just replacing a few feet of baseboard or casing 1 door. I don't have to drag my air comp along with me.
Yeah you figure out quick the batteries are what you're really paying for. When you learn how to 'jump start' them once they won't hold a charge anymore, saves you a lot of $$$.
oh look a bunch of tools with zero use, what a great opinion you have
if you want the best impact out there for continuous use for driving screws into wood and framing get the Milwaukee Surge, it has oil in with the anvil and it makes it quiet which is absolutely amazing for long periods of driving fasteners, also batteries are really great, beats the shit out of the Bosch I had
>oh look a bunch of tools with zero use, what a great opinion you have
I use all my cordless stuff al the time. Maybe you just have zero skills?
>Maybe you just have zero skills?
>look at me I changed a brake pad!
nice, some of us get paid to use our tools, believe it or not
>not a brake job
Goddamn that’s cheap for the 3/8”. Also you can easily find big bits with 1/4” shanks.
I have come across a hole saw arbor or two that doesn’t like the 3/8” chuck on my 12v drill though.
>>not a brake job
moar liek a break job lol
Also nobody here is recommending Ryobi in a professional woodshop where you’re using them 40+ hours a week.
>so unused
Somewhat true.
I just charge double and work half the hours.
But what do I know...
>if you want the best impact out there for continuous use for driving screws into wood and framing get the Milwaukee Surge, it has oil in with the anvil and it makes it quiet which is absolutely amazing for long periods of driving fasteners, also batteries are really great, beats the shit out of the Bosch I had
love the Surge, makes cute sounds when you use it
Ryobi is a fairly good tool brand, and I'm tired of pretending it's not.
Bepis pls
The 1+ brushless hammer drill is solid. Their impact drivers are also very good. The standard drill drops bits frequently and is under-powered. I'm sure I could find more reasons I don't like it if I could stand to use that thing.
Oh shut up, I've got one of these and they're great.
I got 3x 3ah batteries and just started buying the bare tools.
I love all my Ryobi stuff aside from the 2 drills.
That's just in comparison to my old DeWalt. They both function just fine, just a lacking design.
You can't one hand release bits on the impact driver. The DeWalt I can change a bit with 1 hand.
The light on the Ryobi is on the base above the battery which gives better coverage than the DeWalt light which is under the chuck. However, the light doesn't activate on the Ryobi until the drill is turning. The DeWalt light can be activated by the trigger before the drill kicks on, thus light to be able to see where your bit is going before you start drilling.
Really happy with the power output on the Ryobi angle grinder though. The jigsaw has a really sweet design too. With the right blade you can cut super tight angles with it.
how is ryobi warranty process? my impact gun suddenly died after letting someone borrow it for a few minutes
How long have you had it? Did you register it?
I have no idea, I never register the Ryobi shit because it’s so cheap. I register the Ridgid for the LSA but have yet to use it. I heard Milwaukee is pretty straight and will go off the manufacture date on the tool if you don’t register or have a receipt, so hopefully Ryobi is similar.
i never registered shit in my life becuase reciepts have always been satisfactory. i have the reciept. i heard ryobi warranty used to be no questions asked, then it became super stringet like 2 years ago?
something to do with pandemic?
same here. it was $20 for that, charger and the hand sander, but still feel like it was a bad purchase. it cant torque shit
I want to share my good fortune frens. I have makita cordless tools. I went by a garage sale yesterday and it was mostly junk but they had a lone makita 36v string trimmer with four 5ah batteries and a double charger. I gave them $200 for the entire set. Pretty happy with that! I didn't even care about the string trimmer I've got a two stroke Stihl I'm happy with but those batteries are $125 each new and now I've got two double chargers. I guess I can just have two different trimmer heads ready to go as well
be careful buying used batteries, they dont hold a charge forever
>how to fix a ryobi battery
you throw it away and buy a real brand
Any other brands batteries will die eventually as well.
I used that same method to reboot 2 DeWalt 18v batteries before I sold the drill set.
Pay once cry once. The cost over time isn't shit. I'm a mechanic and still use my V28 and M28 (love the Portaband and Sawzalls) Milwaukee tools because they were built with full pre-buyout quality. M28 batteries are expensive but those frickers last. I still have one from 2011 that's worth using.
I don't brandprostitute and also run Makita. Their chainsaw is a fine limbing/homeowner saw and I've dropped many foot thicc trees with mine bought after shoulder replacement meant no gassers for a while. Now the gassers have been unused for years and are just backup. Their 4-1/2" angle grinder runs 6" cutting discs (I modded the guard as those are a key use for me) nicely. I've never had a bad Makita going back to their early corded angle grinders.
I also have a bunch of DeWalt which worked consistently well (avoid their chainsaws tho). I bought a DCF 900 since dragging air hose annoys me and that beast makes my pneumatic impacts pointless.
My (skilled, experienced DIY beast) bro bough a bunch of 12V Milwaukee but rarely uses it. He likes his new Ryobi stuff as much or better.
I see no point in the little stuff unless for very specific repeated little jobs. I never cried myself to sleep over spending a little more since over time the cost per year isn't shit.
Umm it's actually "buy once, cry once." Notice how it rhymes.
Both date back many years. I was alive then.
But "pay once, cry once" doesn't rhyme. Check mate.I am 176 years old. Also checked.
Its "Pay once Gay once"
why the regret? I had one that lasted for almost 10 years. I only changed brands because the batteries wore out.
My wife uses Ryobi for all her little decoration projects, she is an intermediate diyer and its fine for that.
When we build sheds/decks/fences its always with my Dewalt tools cause Ryobi can't keep up.
goyslop
Stop buying dogshit drill bits and start using cutting oil. If you do that you can legitimately get away with drilling 3/8 or smaller holes with something as shitty as picrel. Yes drill bits are made of special blend of metals that can withstand higher temperatures but they still dull faster at those temperatures.
You actually end up spending more money on those dogshit drill bits because of how often you end up replacing them. Stop being a fricking pussy and buy a pack of M42 cobalt bits that could potentially last you a decade.
Buy a cheapo bench grinder and sharpen those bits. They'll last forever that way.
Every time you sharpen drill bits you reduce the next subsequent lifespan because you're stripping away the hardened factory edge and digging into the softer non-hardened portion of the metal you'll end up having to sharpen more and more often over time. It can become a huge hassle. This is why you won't see construction workers use kitchen knives to cut drywall/insulation.
Not just the bits, but how you drill depending on the material.
I lost my 1/8 masonry bit...I think it was Milwaukee. I was on amazon shopping for a new one, reading reviews, and seeing guys complaining their bit broke.
>You don't drill into brick/concrete the same as you drill into wood, even with the proper bit.
Standard drills aren't even meant to be used to drill into concrete since they will very slowly grind away material which wears away the carbide tip exponentially faster so you end up overheating the thing so much the brazing material used to bond the carbide to the steel shank melts causing the carbide to wiggle out of place and crack to pieces. This is where that cutting oil would be the most useful in at least preventing the brazing material from becoming putty.
What masonry bits are really supposed to do is chip away large chunks of material away but they need a tool that hammers them hard enough forward for this to happen. SDS rotary hammer drills are the best for this but you can get away hammer drills if you apply enough force forward to reduce the grinding action though I would still prefer to use cutting oil just to be safe.
It has an adjustment on top that allows you to set the breaking power of the drill. If you are having issues with the drill powering through things then pre drill or bust out the impact driver. I have had a ryobi drill for years and it has been able to do everything I have asked it to. It is not a good buy if you are building fences or driving big outdoor wood screws on the daily, but if you had a big job to do or were a professional you would have bought a better quality tool.
>Should have spent a little more.
Correct.
Should have gone for the 1/2 inch.
then you should have gone for the 5/8ths
then you should have gone for the brushless
then you should have gone for the hammer drill
so on and so forth until all your money is gone
stop being poor
indeed there are much better and much worse.
but for me - as a home grown DIY that does a project on weekends - the $79 1/2 fits the bill.
if I needed a drill for my income paying job - then I would go with the very best I could afford.
bad carpenters blame their tools. brandwhoring and elitism over which color tool you have is by far the gayest aspect of the construction and diy community. I have a mishmash of tools, including ryobi, that I use extensively in home renovations. I've also seen ryobi drills go through daily use for years without fail when I worked construction. Drills are also the simplest fricking tools, its an electric motor, it spins a bit or drill. There are only three possible ways it can be a piece of shit: 1) the motor outright doesnt work or is so under powered it can't perform any meaningful tasks. 2) It breaks after only a few uses. 3) It's completely un-ergonomic, too heavy, too large, too small etc... I haven't seen ryobi drills do any of the above, so they are perfectly serviceable. Frickin homos need to shutup and build shit. Humans have built cathedrals with nothing but hand tools and here we are complaining about which luxury item is slightly inconvenient
ryobi breaks all the time for me, ymmv
TTI owns half the brands anyway.
$40 for the tool only hammer drill is hard to argue. I'm an impact drill maximalist; but having a dedicated drill for tile, hole saws, cabinets, cheaper disposable bit indexes, and whatever else is great. I don't think the 3/8 is as underpowered as previous versions but it drops bits like crazy for me. It's still not enough for large hole, spade, or tile boring tasks.
And SB&D owns the other half
oh, hello. performance within 5%of whichever the number one performer is in class. Lifetime warranty. Crazy seasonal promotions. 36v tools are reaching 18v prices. Former Milwaukee, who switched due to a battery promotion.
i was unironically going to make this post because i just took the metabo pill, paid 170 usd for 2 36v + charger + impact driver. I just missed the battery promo unfortunately but im still happy with the purchase
I’m not down with that yet as a single lineup. Strong impact drivers are quite small these days and you’re stuck with 10 cell packs on them all the time.
>dat balance
Gross. I would def want some M12 tools or something for tighter spots and smaller jobs. I love the 5 cell packs for smaller projects and you’re never going to get a comfy 36V ratchet or oscillating tool unless they make little 1000mAh pouch cells or use babby half length cells.
Yeah i think that im optimistic the entire Hikoki lineup is going to come stateside and support the 36v, I also think that multi volt 21700 celled packs are going to be more popular in the future. The choice for me came down to mostly price. But I did shop the dewalt atomic dcf850 for a bit.
>multi volt 21700 cell packs
Bruh, those 36V packs are going to be big with 21700 cells
Pic related is what a compact impact driver with 10x 21700 cells will look like to get that 36V