Online guides, don't know much about woodworking. The online guides I was reading said to wait 30 days for it to fully cure to the wood before wet sanding. I guess I didn't clean my brush good enough with mineral spirits the night before and when I tried to put my second coat on this moring the brush was too stiff. It left a big brush mark where I started and I wiped it off with a paper towel immediately, but it was still visible. When I looked up guides on how to sand it they told me to wait 30 days for curing before attempting. Is that incorrect?
Whoever wrote that is an idiot; some of the advice is correct t but other parts are just moronic like using mineral spirits to wet sand and having to wait 30 days...part of why you use wet sanding to correct blemishes, sags, drips, etc. is that it lessens heat and friction so you *don't* have to wait for the material to fully cure.
Also you don't have to dry sand blemishes first and certainly not with 80 grit, wet sanding cuts fast because the paper doesn't load up and break down as quickly. You also don't need to soak the paper, that's moronic
Just use some 220 or 320 wet or dry on a block, and soapy water as a lubricant.
I did both sides yesterday and went to do a second coat today I immediately realized I fricked up. The first coat actually went on pretty good, I should have just left the one coat.
12 months ago
Anonymous
The other way to fix stuff like this (and drips) is just to immediately brush it out. I wash my brushes as well as possible with thinner/spirits after use, but then they do still stay crispy. To fix this you just work a bit of thinner into it until it gets soft again. In your case this extra thinner on the brush could have also been used to smooth out what’s in your pic, but this really only works while the paint is still fresh.
The other option is waiting for it to dry and then sanding it. No need to wait 30 days, just check and see if it is still gummy. If you can make a dent in it with light pressure and your fingernail it’s too wet. Sunlight or low heat from a heat gun help to harden finishes quickly, and high ambient humidity makes it take forever to dry or even not dry well at all.
12 months ago
Anonymous
With oil you do like 4 thin coats. Just buff it with 180 grit and put on 2 more thin coats, wiping each coat off 10-17 minutes after with a clean cloth. Don't use paper towel.
Oil-based is kind of tedious so you'll soon understand why the industry has moved on to spray lacquer.
12 months ago
Anonymous
why are you trying to finish a g3 stock with shit meant for an armoire? sand that shit off and put a couple coats of birchwood casey truoil on it.
12 months ago
Anonymous
It's a CETME stock so it was only $25. I ain't buying that HK $300-$500 surplus stock bullshit, at that point t I would just get one custom made!
12 months ago
Anonymous
Thanks for the help anons I have the second coat on now. I think I might just wet sand any imperfections with high grit and be done. If it's not perfectly smooth that's okay with me. At this point I just want to put it on my gun and shoot it.
12 months ago
Anonymous
Oh and this was actually the poly I used, it had no stain because I thought the grain was actually p good. Much better than that cosmoline varnish it had on it.
>The online guides I was reading said to wait 30 days
Read the label on your can. What you've done is coated your wood with a soft rubbery plastic, waiting 30 days isn't going to change shit after that plastic has solidified.
>I should have just used an oil.
your pic is oil based. what makes you think it takes 30 days to cure. what makes you think it needs to be wet sanded.
Online guides, don't know much about woodworking. The online guides I was reading said to wait 30 days for it to fully cure to the wood before wet sanding. I guess I didn't clean my brush good enough with mineral spirits the night before and when I tried to put my second coat on this moring the brush was too stiff. It left a big brush mark where I started and I wiped it off with a paper towel immediately, but it was still visible. When I looked up guides on how to sand it they told me to wait 30 days for curing before attempting. Is that incorrect?
>The online guides I was reading
link?
I think this was the first one I read
https://www.thewoodworkplace.com/wet-sanding-polyurethane-finish/
Whoever wrote that is an idiot; some of the advice is correct t but other parts are just moronic like using mineral spirits to wet sand and having to wait 30 days...part of why you use wet sanding to correct blemishes, sags, drips, etc. is that it lessens heat and friction so you *don't* have to wait for the material to fully cure.
Also you don't have to dry sand blemishes first and certainly not with 80 grit, wet sanding cuts fast because the paper doesn't load up and break down as quickly. You also don't need to soak the paper, that's moronic
Just use some 220 or 320 wet or dry on a block, and soapy water as a lubricant.
Thanks, I'll wait over night and just wet sand.
Post a pic so we can see the brush mark. Wrdrsw
I did both sides yesterday and went to do a second coat today I immediately realized I fricked up. The first coat actually went on pretty good, I should have just left the one coat.
The other way to fix stuff like this (and drips) is just to immediately brush it out. I wash my brushes as well as possible with thinner/spirits after use, but then they do still stay crispy. To fix this you just work a bit of thinner into it until it gets soft again. In your case this extra thinner on the brush could have also been used to smooth out what’s in your pic, but this really only works while the paint is still fresh.
The other option is waiting for it to dry and then sanding it. No need to wait 30 days, just check and see if it is still gummy. If you can make a dent in it with light pressure and your fingernail it’s too wet. Sunlight or low heat from a heat gun help to harden finishes quickly, and high ambient humidity makes it take forever to dry or even not dry well at all.
With oil you do like 4 thin coats. Just buff it with 180 grit and put on 2 more thin coats, wiping each coat off 10-17 minutes after with a clean cloth. Don't use paper towel.
Oil-based is kind of tedious so you'll soon understand why the industry has moved on to spray lacquer.
why are you trying to finish a g3 stock with shit meant for an armoire? sand that shit off and put a couple coats of birchwood casey truoil on it.
It's a CETME stock so it was only $25. I ain't buying that HK $300-$500 surplus stock bullshit, at that point t I would just get one custom made!
Thanks for the help anons I have the second coat on now. I think I might just wet sand any imperfections with high grit and be done. If it's not perfectly smooth that's okay with me. At this point I just want to put it on my gun and shoot it.
Oh and this was actually the poly I used, it had no stain because I thought the grain was actually p good. Much better than that cosmoline varnish it had on it.
A bot wrote it. Woodworking sites are as bad as those on any other subject.
>The online guides I was reading said to wait 30 days
Read the label on your can. What you've done is coated your wood with a soft rubbery plastic, waiting 30 days isn't going to change shit after that plastic has solidified.
>One-Step
Next time use separate stain and finishes.