I am looking to build pic related (not for BDSM reasons). I have two large >100 liter (25 gallon) tubs. I would like to bring one tub down to the temperature of -5celcious (I know the water will need additives). The other tub is just to measure the COP of the setup. It will be switched out for a radiator. Again this has nothing to do with sex toys or BDSM.
The reason I want to do this is because heat pumps are 3000-10000$. I want to see if it possible to use passive solar to heat the water, then use the water to heat the space using the DIY heatpump. The area I live is usually -5 to 15 C (20 - 60 F) for half the year.
Probably going to use propane as refrigerant and I was hoping a capillary tube would be enough or should I go for a TEX? Any construction tips or tricks to make this a success would be appreciated. I am making this for normal heating
and cooling applications.
I didn't make it clear. Both coils will be submerged. The cold bucket will vary from -5 to 15 C. I'll keep watching HVAC tech videos.
you can get a diy heat pump set for $1000-$1500 on amazon
>not for BDSM reasons
>Again this has nothing to do with sex toys or BDSM. I am making this for normal heating
>and cooling applications.
Oddly specific. For some reason, I don't believe you.
I didn't want anybody to get the wrong idea.
I want to try and use the sun to heat the water first to over freezing to try and hit a coefficient of performance of 3-4 in low temperatures. It's to supplement heating with the cheapest available materials and not to replace a furnace or heatpump. Although those 1000$ heat pumps on Amazon are tempting.
Imagine on the cold side you have a blue barrel filled with 210liters of water. During the day it reaches 10 c you could store that thermal energy and put out ~750watts of heat for 4 1/2 hours. While consuming ~300 watts draw. You have to factor in electronic control, pumps, and fan. But they mostly work out to electric heat.
If built to a COP of 3 or better it would save me 280$ a year. Assuming no maintenance.
>BDSM reasons
>BDSM reasons
I'm moronic, how could you use it for those reasons? Life isn't a cartoon.
Exactly, that's why I wanted to make it very clear. I don't want to see anyone get injured so I'll provide NO direction. Which I can't anyways, because like you said "Life isn't a cartoon".
Any simple way to use the latent heat of liquid water? Here ist is -20 C and my heatpump is working hard. Extracting heat from water (about +10 C) and freezing the water would provide a lot of heat.
How to do that without icing down the coil? Any way to make the coil drop the ice and access more liquid water?
In the spirit of this thread, I should add that this is not for enriching uranium.
How's winter this year, Hans?
Not Hans, but around here it is unusually cold after an exceptionally poor summer.
Yes. That is in the spirit of this thread. It's as simple as putting the radiator in the water and salting or methylating it so it doesn't freeze right away.
I got a question about wood fireplace blowers. I moved into a new house and the previous owners don't seem to have ever cleaned out the blower installed in the fireplace. There seems to be 2 intake fans below the actual fire and an outtake above it, with 2 additonal outtake vents on either side of the chimney. I turned it on a couple times and one of the intake fans blew a bit but nothing came out.
Today I opened the intake vents, vacuumed out all the cobwebs and dust and lubricated the fans and they both work very well now. If I make a fire tonight will the blower turn on or is there another component that I need to fix?
>If I make a fire tonight will the blower turn on
Fireplace fans 'generally' are operated manually.
Isn’t the the Einstein refrigerator that was patterned in the 40’s or 50’s?
At the store today, the guy was telling me that just laying 2 sheets of reflective insulation over (under) the floor joists will provide better R-values than the 6 inch fiberglass standard batting thats there. (of course batting is shoved between joists).
Is this really true? From a laymans perspective, it just doest seem real - that standard batting is so thick, and having it in each joist seems like it would insulate better. Is this new reflective stuff the real deal or just a meme?
Why not just buy a mini-split? Everything you need to worry about has been calculated by somebody smart and all you have to do is just pump vacuum and open valves.
Most of them work to like -15C or so. Keep in mind that at lower temperature performance drops so you need to oversize the unit.
>The reason I want to do this is because heat pumps are 3000-10000$
Depends on power you want. 24kBTU unit is probably like $1000-1500 or so.
Instead of trying to re-invent the wheel, better calculate amount of heat you'd need based on wall insulation, windows, leaks etc.
>propane refrigerant
Black person if your system has even a tiny leak you run the risk of a literal explosion from the compressor kicking on, you understand this right?
R290 (aka propane) is a common refrigerant.
Small domestic heat pumps up to 10 kW are filled with a maximum of 150 g.
If someone fricks up the gas-tight fittings and blows themselves up with 150g, then that's just the way it is.
All kitchen appliances and lab equipment using R290 are restricted to about 4oz of charge per system. Some manufacturers get around this by having multiple systems in the same unit. R-32 is more dangerous because it’s flammable and used in much greater quantities in residential applications where some idiot could drive a nail into a pressurized line
t Dupont worker
>just use r1234yf
we should see a statistically significant increase in fires related to AC systems in areas where R290/propane has become common, right? R-right anon?
The risk was largely overstated.
Was at a site and thought I would snap a photo of this bad bwah for the hvac ppl
People have been talking about CO2 as refridgerant for decades. When will it come in commercial use?
>When will it come in commercial use?
it's already used in some systems, but it has several issues that prevent it from being the go-to solution for "environmentally friendly" refrigerant. Most of the commercial applications seem to be cascade systems where they use CO2 on one side and a conventional HFC or whatever on the other side.
From what I understand, its critical point of ~31C makes it so that if the outdoor temp is above that, you CAN'T get it to reject heat by condensation.... You'd only be cooling the gas, which is much less efficient.
It also runs at higher system pressures than conventional choices which adds more troubles.
My interest is mainly to heat my home, where I live 31 C is uncommon.
As for dumping excess heat, why don't people dump the heat into the sewage or use it to preheat for the hot water tank?
There's a few Australian companies that market and sell home AC systems/heat pumps using CO2 as refrigerant. Seems to be popular down there for whatever reason, probably fake and gay communist regulations pushing it. The issue is the entire system has to be designed with much, much more expensive components because instead of ~400psi on the high side you're talking about 1800psi. Everything needs to be changed to accommodate that massive pressure increase. And that in turn means shits ludicrously expensive compared to 410a/R32 units.