>Proud of the piece
Grind / file a slot and use a flat-head (easiest method). You can also deform the head and use vise locks to turn it. >Flush with the piece
Weld or epoxy something else to it to turn it >Sunk
Drill it out (best done with a drill press or drill jig) with a bit smaller than the width of the screw.
or
If you don't mind ruining your tools you can hammer something thin and sharp into it to create the flathead slot
>weld
Also if it's not red loctited in place, solder is usually strong enough and more readily available. On small screws meant for plastic items, you can even soften the body of a disposable pen with a lighter and stick it on the screw. That method also works for security screws. I would do that all the time to open Nintendo cartridges and consoles.
>Buy a broaching kit and remake the head >weld a bar perpendicular to it >drill out the core of the screw >burn the wood around it until you have your screw back
You are driving the screw.
The word "Predrilling" is implying drilling before the screw is driven, or it could also imply drilling a pilot hole for a larger bit.
Autism makes context difficult to understand, so what you see here is an autist who doesn't understand the context implied behind using the word Predrilling.
just admit that you were destroyed with fact and logic
7 months ago
Anonymous
No. I understand your argument, and you fail to hear the counter argument like the card carrying redditor you are.
Language adapts to common usage and has since its inception. Predrill is a well understood concept in the field and anyone can quickly understand what is being discussed. Predrill is much more to the point than "Drill the pilot then drill the screw."
If you want to argue semantics, time may not exist but everyone is still has obligations during set periods. Thanks for wasting yours and mine.
7 months ago
Anonymous
I agree with this anon, predrill makes sense and is better shorthand
Anyone saying pilot hole on a jobsite I would immediately assume shoves batteries up his ass
7 months ago
Anonymous
Agreed. Other dude is being a pretentious gay. Predrill is the right word.
That pic would be easy to grab with pliers or vise grips, or if it’s a clean screw in wood, regular PH bit on an impact driver and lean into it with some weight.
> remove screw that's starting to show signs of gender dysphoria > throw it out > replace with new screw that is excessively hard for the given application
I spent a small fortune in having all screw types in my home shop but when screws go gay, it's replacement is an arm reach away.
Grab some other bit that is slightly oversized and hammer the shit out of it until it broaches a new slot and try again. Convert torx to Robertson, Phillips to hex. The world is whatever you want it to be when tool steel is harder than the fastener.
Size isn't the only concern. You have to be careful of lookalikes. JIS B 1012, Frearson, and Pozidriv are all crosses with slightly different interior profiles from Phillips.
https://i.imgur.com/bF4An2F.jpg
Or just use Robertson you moronic stupid head American
You can't get Robertsons in the states. The closest we have is Square Driver.
Good screwdrivers and driver bits make a big difference too. Lowe’s was selling 5pks of Wiha drivers for $19.99, it’s a big difference between Chinesium screwdrivers and even the old school USA Craftsmans.
My favorite pic that shows this. Cheap chinese generic store brand on the left, USA Craftsman in the middle, German made Wiha on the right, and the Wihas were like $60 for a 13pc set, so not unattainable price.
>take a flathead screwdriver and a hammer >put the tip on the screw >start slamming the shit out of the screwdriver with your hammer
Worked on my ThinkPad, would recommend
I know what I am doing so I do not create such problems.
Therefor I will not deal with it.
If someone else created such a problem, well it is their problem to deal with.
I can however advise on how this problem is best solved.
Most suggestions in this thread stem from a lack of knowledge and frankly a deranged mind.
If the screw sits proud exactly like in the picture, options are plentiful.
1. best option: squeeze the screw head gently with a plier wrench to create flat spots. This might fail if the screw head is very hard. If that is the case, transition to 2.
2. second best option: grind flat spots onto the outside of the screw, then remove with plier wrench. Added danger of damaging the surface below due to grinding operation, can be protected against by using a thin piece of spring steel sheet metal.
3. third best option: grind the face of an appropriately sized torx bit down to remove the roundover at the beginning, creating a sharp corner. line the bit up carefully with the hole, and hammer the torx bit in gently. It ought to cut a makeshift torx profile. This option only works if the workpiece is stiff and resists the hammer blows with ease, in soft wood this will fail. It's most useful for bolts in hard materials. It works exceedingly well on hex head cap screws. It requires a close-to-round, cylindrical hole in the screw to be present.
Note that this option also would work with a flush screw.
4. fourth best option: grind a slot into the screw head, use flathead screw driver to remove. This does not require stiff base material and will work on soft wood. It is however still risky since the screw head will be severely weakened by the slot grinding.
Any sort of drilling the screw out, especially a steel screw in wood, is a ludicrous idea and won't work at all, especially with these small screws with a ~3-4 mm core.
How does it even get to that point? Do you guys not screw them out a bit by hand? That way you can easily stop and apply more pressure if you notice it starts slipping.
there are special bits for it, I've seen using a hwx bit work, but I wouldn't try it if I was out of options, you could weld or solder something to it to get it out
>grinder/oscillator cut slot on screw
>flat head to remove
alternatively
>open chuck on drill
>grind a few flat edges on side of the head of the screw
>close chuck on screw head
>remove
>Proud of the piece
Grind / file a slot and use a flat-head (easiest method). You can also deform the head and use vise locks to turn it.
>Flush with the piece
Weld or epoxy something else to it to turn it
>Sunk
Drill it out (best done with a drill press or drill jig) with a bit smaller than the width of the screw.
or
If you don't mind ruining your tools you can hammer something thin and sharp into it to create the flathead slot
>weld
Also if it's not red loctited in place, solder is usually strong enough and more readily available. On small screws meant for plastic items, you can even soften the body of a disposable pen with a lighter and stick it on the screw. That method also works for security screws. I would do that all the time to open Nintendo cartridges and consoles.
>Buy a broaching kit and remake the head
>weld a bar perpendicular to it
>drill out the core of the screw
>burn the wood around it until you have your screw back
Use proper deck screws w torx, firstly.
For removal, a pair of locking pliers/ vice grips can grab the head and then, rotate the entire pliers to unscrew.
Use the correct bit to start with.
Fricking garbage
Or just use Robertson you moronic stupid head American
Use robertson or torx instead. Else predrill.
>predrill.
you mean drill. you can't drill before you drill. you either drilled a hole or you didn't.
What am I doing with my drill when the screw is going into the board?
You are driving the screw.
The word "Predrilling" is implying drilling before the screw is driven, or it could also imply drilling a pilot hole for a larger bit.
Autism makes context difficult to understand, so what you see here is an autist who doesn't understand the context implied behind using the word Predrilling.
No. Predrill
Pre-
>a prefix occurring originally in loanwords from Latin, where it meant “before”
-drill
>verb - to make a hole in something using a special tool
Predrill - DRILL a hole BEFORE screwing in the screw.
wrong that's a drilling a pilot hole.
pre drill means
before drill
you cannot drill before you drill.
just like you cannot preboard a plane. you are either boarding or not boarding.
keep the mental gymnastics to a minimum.
You skipped my question so you could set up your own strawman.
just admit that you were destroyed with fact and logic
No. I understand your argument, and you fail to hear the counter argument like the card carrying redditor you are.
Language adapts to common usage and has since its inception. Predrill is a well understood concept in the field and anyone can quickly understand what is being discussed. Predrill is much more to the point than "Drill the pilot then drill the screw."
If you want to argue semantics, time may not exist but everyone is still has obligations during set periods. Thanks for wasting yours and mine.
I agree with this anon, predrill makes sense and is better shorthand
Anyone saying pilot hole on a jobsite I would immediately assume shoves batteries up his ass
Agreed. Other dude is being a pretentious gay. Predrill is the right word.
if the head is that much in the air you can use vice grips to remove
this can easily be avoided if the screw has a good relationship with his father
>how the frick do you deal with this problem?
pilot hole
stop when it slips you mongoloid gorilla!
Depends how stuck it is and how deep it is.
That pic would be easy to grab with pliers or vise grips, or if it’s a clean screw in wood, regular PH bit on an impact driver and lean into it with some weight.
use screw bit instead of drill bit
simple as
> remove screw that's starting to show signs of gender dysphoria
> throw it out
> replace with new screw that is excessively hard for the given application
I spent a small fortune in having all screw types in my home shop but when screws go gay, it's replacement is an arm reach away.
>> remove screw that's starting to show signs of gender dysphoria
LMAO
Holy frick did that make me laugh
Keked my friend.
But jokes aside, this is the only correct anwer, screw that screw before it fully transitions
Grab some other bit that is slightly oversized and hammer the shit out of it until it broaches a new slot and try again. Convert torx to Robertson, Phillips to hex. The world is whatever you want it to be when tool steel is harder than the fastener.
small vice grips
Use a round driver bit, it should fit perfectly.
You may be able to use a centerpunch near the circumference of the screw to budge it a bit.
https://www.bobvila.com/articles/best-screw-extractor/
does the bit you used look like picrel?
Use the correct bit to start with.
Who's bright idea was it to invent a bit that destroys your screw if you get the size wrong, rather than just not working?
a screw is cheaper to replace than a power tool
??????
What's the worst case scenario? The screw stalls in the wall, instantly halting the drivetrain? Isn't that completely fine?
>What's the worst case scenario?
broken drivetrain
even if the tool has a clutch, it's still something that wears out
Well what's your idea for new bits and screws? Let's hear it homosexual
Size isn't the only concern. You have to be careful of lookalikes. JIS B 1012, Frearson, and Pozidriv are all crosses with slightly different interior profiles from Phillips.
You can't get Robertsons in the states. The closest we have is Square Driver.
Good screwdrivers and driver bits make a big difference too. Lowe’s was selling 5pks of Wiha drivers for $19.99, it’s a big difference between Chinesium screwdrivers and even the old school USA Craftsmans.
My favorite pic that shows this. Cheap chinese generic store brand on the left, USA Craftsman in the middle, German made Wiha on the right, and the Wihas were like $60 for a 13pc set, so not unattainable price.
Super glue the screwdriver in it then let it set
If some moron fricked a proper pozidrive with a phillips, I just weld a nut on it and be done with it. Everything else is just cope.
take flathead screwdriver and wack it in with a hammer.
>take a flathead screwdriver and a hammer
>put the tip on the screw
>start slamming the shit out of the screwdriver with your hammer
Worked on my ThinkPad, would recommend
>how the frick do you deal with this problem?
I know what I am doing so I do not create such problems.
Therefor I will not deal with it.
If someone else created such a problem, well it is their problem to deal with.
I can however advise on how this problem is best solved.
Most suggestions in this thread stem from a lack of knowledge and frankly a deranged mind.
If the screw sits proud exactly like in the picture, options are plentiful.
1. best option: squeeze the screw head gently with a plier wrench to create flat spots. This might fail if the screw head is very hard. If that is the case, transition to 2.
2. second best option: grind flat spots onto the outside of the screw, then remove with plier wrench. Added danger of damaging the surface below due to grinding operation, can be protected against by using a thin piece of spring steel sheet metal.
3. third best option: grind the face of an appropriately sized torx bit down to remove the roundover at the beginning, creating a sharp corner. line the bit up carefully with the hole, and hammer the torx bit in gently. It ought to cut a makeshift torx profile. This option only works if the workpiece is stiff and resists the hammer blows with ease, in soft wood this will fail. It's most useful for bolts in hard materials. It works exceedingly well on hex head cap screws. It requires a close-to-round, cylindrical hole in the screw to be present.
Note that this option also would work with a flush screw.
4. fourth best option: grind a slot into the screw head, use flathead screw driver to remove. This does not require stiff base material and will work on soft wood. It is however still risky since the screw head will be severely weakened by the slot grinding.
Any sort of drilling the screw out, especially a steel screw in wood, is a ludicrous idea and won't work at all, especially with these small screws with a ~3-4 mm core.
Keep drilling
left hand drill bit and/or screw extractor
How does it even get to that point? Do you guys not screw them out a bit by hand? That way you can easily stop and apply more pressure if you notice it starts slipping.
Stop using garbage screw heads. Torx is the way.
>>
Op first step is to delete your folder of trans images
there are special bits for it, I've seen using a hwx bit work, but I wouldn't try it if I was out of options, you could weld or solder something to it to get it out
>use the correct head
>a proper screwdriver, not some interchangeable head one
>neji-saurus if you've already fricked up
i usually end breaking the plastic case
that's why i always thrown away the screw as soon as they start to strip
Using flat instead of cross
i won't preach cause this happens to everybody.
but do consider having a set of these handy. they're made for this purpose.
Vice grips after filing/grinding a flatspot