run them from the tub to the wall. why? It will make the room look wider instead of longer. It's the harder way to do it but I think it's better. Beyond this, have you considered a wood tile like picrel instead of laminate? laminate seems like a bad idea for a bathroom.
>wood tile
I've seen these anywhere and am starting to consider them
the large tile plates make me anxious
will I be able to adjust then at all after placement?
with hat much surface area, I figure it'd need a mallet, which I'm hesitant to employ on tile
why would you need a mallet? Have you never installed tiles? Watch a video or two first regarding... >subfloor type (mesh vs ditra) >cement type (dont use normal white glue shit) >how to cut the tiles (I suggest a little wet saw) >grout types (Ultraflex vs normal shit grout) >grout sealing
etc.
>installed tiles
Yeah. I have. When they're a few inches square and they weight a couple few ounces and I can kinda wriggle them against the spacers, I don't have a problem.
I have much less confidence in my ability to land a 1'x3' plate on the marks and worry that it's so huge I won't be able to wriggle it up where it needs to be. Or if it's wriggleable at all with that much surface area. What's the spacing on these anyway?
Its an upstairs bathroom so the tile would be a nightmare. I would have to reinforce the subfloor. Just planning on using a waterproof bathroom type laminate if they have it. The thing that I wonder about running from bath to the door is that from the bath to toilet wall is like 3-4 foot. Not sure how you would stagger it correctly and each plank would butt up against the bathtub vs just 1-2 planks.
I'd say just dry-fit a few planks and see which one looks better. However, depending on how warped your wall across from the toilet is, planks laid the long way (from door to bath) might accentuate the warp and look bad.
I had a bath of that configuration and when tiling, I did a diamond/diagonal lay with them because of warping along the long wall
These are not tongue and groove or anything like that. You just lay them like normal tile. Laying out your room you can start at the door with a full tile length wise and just lay enough you can get out with a plank or something then continue so you don't end up with a sliver at the door. Chalk line/mark your lines so you don't go out of square. I'd use a 1/8 grout joint, no need to be crazy tight between rows if you don't want to.
You can get vinyl plank flooring that uses a synthetic underlayment instead of cork, but are you saying that plastic isn't waterproof, or are you saying that it will allow water to penetrate to the subfloor below which should be treated with RedGard or similar anyway?
vinyl planks/tiles arent waterproof either, the only vinyl that's waterproof is sheet vinyl
You can get vinyl plank flooring that uses a synthetic underlayment instead of cork, but are you saying that plastic isn't waterproof, or are you saying that it will allow water to penetrate to the subfloor below which should be treated with RedGard or similar anyway?
dont people put vinyl planks in bathrooms all the time? Im keeping 99.8% of the water inside the tub.
all this talk of vinyl. It is so stupidly easy to staple mesh to the floor, drag wet slop concrete into it (skim coat) and lay real tiles + grout. You're already in for a penny by renovating the floor, why not to do it right ffs. Vinyl in all forms sucks.
vinyl is like $160 and can be done in a couple hours. Tile is a lot more expensive and more work. If I was doing a full remodel maybe and didn't care about a bathroom being out of service for a length of time. My last floor was peel and stick. Planks are better than what I had.
It just comes down to preference. But you should take several measurements of the floor Width and Length. Take 3 from each direction. Note them on a piece of paper and see if there is any skew to the floor.
If the floor has a bad skew on the width or length you should take that into consideration when you decide your pattern. You want the skew to be as least noticeable as possible.
The planks are 4 foot also and wall to wall from toilet/vanity is like 5/6'. Should I alternate 2' and 4' planks?
do what you want. who cares?
Theres a right and wrong way to do it moron. Go install your planks with no stagger.
diagonally
run them from the tub to the wall. why? It will make the room look wider instead of longer. It's the harder way to do it but I think it's better. Beyond this, have you considered a wood tile like picrel instead of laminate? laminate seems like a bad idea for a bathroom.
>wood tile
I've seen these anywhere and am starting to consider them
the large tile plates make me anxious
will I be able to adjust then at all after placement?
with hat much surface area, I figure it'd need a mallet, which I'm hesitant to employ on tile
why would you need a mallet? Have you never installed tiles? Watch a video or two first regarding...
>subfloor type (mesh vs ditra)
>cement type (dont use normal white glue shit)
>how to cut the tiles (I suggest a little wet saw)
>grout types (Ultraflex vs normal shit grout)
>grout sealing
etc.
>installed tiles
Yeah. I have. When they're a few inches square and they weight a couple few ounces and I can kinda wriggle them against the spacers, I don't have a problem.
I have much less confidence in my ability to land a 1'x3' plate on the marks and worry that it's so huge I won't be able to wriggle it up where it needs to be. Or if it's wriggleable at all with that much surface area. What's the spacing on these anyway?
Its an upstairs bathroom so the tile would be a nightmare. I would have to reinforce the subfloor. Just planning on using a waterproof bathroom type laminate if they have it. The thing that I wonder about running from bath to the door is that from the bath to toilet wall is like 3-4 foot. Not sure how you would stagger it correctly and each plank would butt up against the bathtub vs just 1-2 planks.
Don't run laminate in the bathroom wtf. They will inevitably get wet time over time. Shit won't last
I'd say just dry-fit a few planks and see which one looks better. However, depending on how warped your wall across from the toilet is, planks laid the long way (from door to bath) might accentuate the warp and look bad.
I had a bath of that configuration and when tiling, I did a diamond/diagonal lay with them because of warping along the long wall
These are not tongue and groove or anything like that. You just lay them like normal tile. Laying out your room you can start at the door with a full tile length wise and just lay enough you can get out with a plank or something then continue so you don't end up with a sliver at the door. Chalk line/mark your lines so you don't go out of square. I'd use a 1/8 grout joint, no need to be crazy tight between rows if you don't want to.
laminate planks are not waterproof, you should not install them in a bathroom, you shouldnt even install them in a kitchen
didn't mean to say laminate. Meant to say vinyl.
vinyl planks/tiles arent waterproof either, the only vinyl that's waterproof is sheet vinyl
You can get vinyl plank flooring that uses a synthetic underlayment instead of cork, but are you saying that plastic isn't waterproof, or are you saying that it will allow water to penetrate to the subfloor below which should be treated with RedGard or similar anyway?
dont people put vinyl planks in bathrooms all the time? Im keeping 99.8% of the water inside the tub.
all this talk of vinyl. It is so stupidly easy to staple mesh to the floor, drag wet slop concrete into it (skim coat) and lay real tiles + grout. You're already in for a penny by renovating the floor, why not to do it right ffs. Vinyl in all forms sucks.
vinyl is like $160 and can be done in a couple hours. Tile is a lot more expensive and more work. If I was doing a full remodel maybe and didn't care about a bathroom being out of service for a length of time. My last floor was peel and stick. Planks are better than what I had.
Sigh.
People who type out "sigh" as though they're actually making an exhasparated noise are fricking homosexuals.
>in my bathroom
I have carpet
Flooring installer.
It just comes down to preference. But you should take several measurements of the floor Width and Length. Take 3 from each direction. Note them on a piece of paper and see if there is any skew to the floor.
If the floor has a bad skew on the width or length you should take that into consideration when you decide your pattern. You want the skew to be as least noticeable as possible.