i googled it and found nothing, but what I did was find the weight of 1 foot of 1in emt and it is almost equal to the weight of 1/2in steel rod
while 1/2in steel rod is a bit larger than 0000 gauge wire, but its of course steel.
I want to run 12v dc and I was thinking rather than run a negative ground wire, I could just use metal conduit and now it is the ground, leaving more room inside for positive wires and a smaller diameter conduit is required then
How many amps and what justifies conduit? Portable, vehicle, what end use? Vehicles have chassis returns since forever but ensure ground cables (conduit is ground side of course) are properly connected and won't corrode.
A workshop.
There will be 2x 20a dedicated jacks every 10ft for the equipment which is all 12v.
Like I can put a 20a breaker on each positive run, and a 150a breaker on the negative as a main right? That should be fine for what I'm doing
A 12v workshop? Why? What equipment do you have that runs on 12V DC?
At 150A, you're going to have to worry about voltage drop bigtime. That's also only 1800w, the same amount of power that can be provided by a standard 120v household socket.
If you want a DC workshop because it's powered by solar or whatever, go with 48v. There are tons of 48 vdc motors, controllers, chargers, battery systems, etc. 48v is the standard used for off grid power systems, though almost everyone just has a 48v battery bank feeding a 120v/240v inverter.
the max is 40 feet from the source which is rated for 20 amps per wire but only will be used at most 12 amp, which will go over 10ga copper wire for the positive and the conduit for the negative.
the 150A is just a safety, and is likely not even needed as many many devices would need to be plugged in and operating to hit that amount.
Outer radius squared minus inner radius squared, times 3.14, convert to awg, look up current rating for that awg solid copper wire, multiply that by conductivity of steel and divide by conductivity of copper
You need to thread the conduit, which means you can't actually use emt, you need imc. The Little connectors you screw on emt to give it a thread aren't actually a good electrical connection.
3/4 imc is considered an okay thing to bond lightning arrestor to if it's less than 20 ft long and threaded into the main box, tge optimal choice for this a #6 ground going back to the bonded ground rod.
This is one of those dumb frickong doy things people do and will sort of work and if anyone else sees it they'll be like, wow you are sketchy as frick that is not okay.
at the point of using more expensive threaded pipe I am in a position I just run additional grounding wires instead, then I can just use plastic pipe which is much cheaper.
the only downside is unless I run individual 10ga negative along side every 10ga positive, I could instead run one big thick boy negative but I would have to figure out how to tap into it at every junction box
As a fuse or a plasma?
as a conductor
i googled it and found nothing, but what I did was find the weight of 1 foot of 1in emt and it is almost equal to the weight of 1/2in steel rod
while 1/2in steel rod is a bit larger than 0000 gauge wire, but its of course steel.
can it pass ~150 amps safely then??
just going off feeling, 150 is probably right about where it might start getting hot if its running continuously
What are you trying to do with it?
Something stupid. We need pics for science.
I want to run 12v dc and I was thinking rather than run a negative ground wire, I could just use metal conduit and now it is the ground, leaving more room inside for positive wires and a smaller diameter conduit is required then
How many amps and what justifies conduit? Portable, vehicle, what end use? Vehicles have chassis returns since forever but ensure ground cables (conduit is ground side of course) are properly connected and won't corrode.
What is this for?
A workshop.
There will be 2x 20a dedicated jacks every 10ft for the equipment which is all 12v.
Like I can put a 20a breaker on each positive run, and a 150a breaker on the negative as a main right? That should be fine for what I'm doing
A 12v workshop? Why? What equipment do you have that runs on 12V DC?
At 150A, you're going to have to worry about voltage drop bigtime. That's also only 1800w, the same amount of power that can be provided by a standard 120v household socket.
If you want a DC workshop because it's powered by solar or whatever, go with 48v. There are tons of 48 vdc motors, controllers, chargers, battery systems, etc. 48v is the standard used for off grid power systems, though almost everyone just has a 48v battery bank feeding a 120v/240v inverter.
no its for radio equipment, does not run on 48v.
the max is 40 feet from the source which is rated for 20 amps per wire but only will be used at most 12 amp, which will go over 10ga copper wire for the positive and the conduit for the negative.
the 150A is just a safety, and is likely not even needed as many many devices would need to be plugged in and operating to hit that amount.
Houses use conduit as ground anyways. So it could work.
Outer radius squared minus inner radius squared, times 3.14, convert to awg, look up current rating for that awg solid copper wire, multiply that by conductivity of steel and divide by conductivity of copper
check it on engineeringtoolbox - that site should be on the sticky tbh
>how many amps can 1in EMT carry?
"Yes"
You need to thread the conduit, which means you can't actually use emt, you need imc. The Little connectors you screw on emt to give it a thread aren't actually a good electrical connection.
3/4 imc is considered an okay thing to bond lightning arrestor to if it's less than 20 ft long and threaded into the main box, tge optimal choice for this a #6 ground going back to the bonded ground rod.
This is one of those dumb frickong doy things people do and will sort of work and if anyone else sees it they'll be like, wow you are sketchy as frick that is not okay.
What if i fill it with molten solder?
at the point of using more expensive threaded pipe I am in a position I just run additional grounding wires instead, then I can just use plastic pipe which is much cheaper.
the only downside is unless I run individual 10ga negative along side every 10ga positive, I could instead run one big thick boy negative but I would have to figure out how to tap into it at every junction box