How is this supposed to work? (not specifically wd40, but any lubricant used to loosen bolts)
>You spray it on the stuck bolt.
>It seeps into the threads.
>Therefor loosening the bolt enough to remove it.
I'm honestly skeptical it can even get into the threads in the first place.
>I'm honestly skeptical it can even get into the threads in the first place.
Ever notice that penetrating oil is always very thin? Ever try to install pipe fittings without using sealant or teflon tape? Ever seen a grown man naked?
Ages ago I worked with a guy who worked at Exxon with some sort of wild super-coolants for supercomputers and huge transformers. Some of the lowest viscosity liquids known to man. It would climb glass like gravity had inverted. They found a neat trick where if you put a drop of it on your foot, you'd taste it a few seconds later because it would spread across your skin that much.
I feel like every one of those guys is probably long dead of some strange exotic cancer.
I know I would be unable to stop myself from trying this, even though it would mean an early grave.
8h4pv
Dope, I bet you would really taste is if you shot some into a vein!
Also I’m done tasting stuff to see what it is ever since that one time I wasn’t sure if it was water or some syrup and it ended up being some super heavy duty degreaser concentrate that made my tongue burn for like 20min.
Now I wipe it on a rag and huff to see what the substance is
One time skating with my brother and friends we found a gallon water jug filled with some yellow liquid. We all smelled it, couldn't decide if it was lemonade or some kind of lemon scented soap (we'd seen the janitor around that area before he kicked us out of the skate spot). So my brother tasted it. To this day he claims he only tasted it once but we all watched him sip, that's soap, sip, yup, definitely soap, sip, hmm, sip, yeah that's soap. For like a full minute. No, he wasn't high, just some kind of mentally ill
> I wipe it on a rag and huff to see what the substance is
Yeah, that sounds supper healthy.
It was probably some PCB
Yep
>They found a neat trick where if you put a drop of it on your foot, you'd taste it a few seconds later
Certain dyes are like that. And by the time you can taste it, you are sterile.
>because it would spread across your skin that much.
It would pass through the skin, into the blood system and then reach your taste buds from behind. This is exceptionally unhealthy.
> penetrates right through the skin
Yep, that's the thought I had. I'm glad someone else caught it. Your skin is only meant to guard against natural substances. Detergent 'soaps' strip all the natural oil off your skin, leaving it 'feeling clean' - it's not, it's now more susceptible to the industrial effluent that's added to treated water.
> superzilla
Now I have to look that up. Thanks.
A bunch of diynons mentioned heat. I've heard a plain paraffin wax candle, when applied to the heated threads, draws the wax up into them.
Some youtuber mixed ATF with kerosene (i think it was kerosene) and made a decent penetrant with it.
I don't like PB, smells too much like weird chemicals.
>Some youtuber mixed ATF with kerosene
reminds me I wound up sharing a camping spot with some good ol boys and they whipped out a log bigger around than a rim, not even split, and put it sideways across the fire. we're talking 20" in diameter, and again not even the bark was off. they dumped half a quart of atf on top and lit that fricker and cooked steaks on it a half hour later. burned several hours, about halfway through before they doused it and turned in.
>(i think it was kerosene)
with acetone, acetone is a polar aprotic solvent meaning it can dissolve both polar and non polar materials.
Kerosene ->can dissolve grease
Water -> can dissolve salts
>acetone -> can dissolve both.
Is that why acetone is good at getting rid of mold mycotoxin residue? And would xylene work instead?
xylene bears no similarity to acetone apart from being a smelly solvent. i haven't got any mold to test on but i don't think it would do the same job.
please try some didecyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, it deletes molds funguses slimes mosses and lichens real good but doesn't attack paint or catch on fire.
I can taste it if i put a clove of garlic in my snatch
Hm
Ever seen a naked man laugh?
WD isn’t even the best penetrating oil, it’s an all in one that isn’t great at any one thing.
But anyway, pretty sure it’s the rust and crap that acts like a wick. Put the corner of a paper towel in some water and watch it get wicked up. Same shit.
WD is the only one that doesn’t stink like cancer.
Marvel Mystery Oil, best stink
take a whiff of ballistoil
seafoam deep creep smells like rum
>But anyway, pretty sure it’s the rust and crap that acts like a wick. Put the corner of a paper towel in some water and watch it get wicked up. Same shit.
OK, but I've looked at bolts post removal and I didn't see any liquid on the threads.
the best stuff for a stuck bolt I've found is DeepCreep.
fricking love that shit.
wait I change my mind.
I meant PB blaster i think, I'm sure deepcreep works but I use PB all the time
>the best stuff for a stuck bolt I've found is oxy gas
Fixed that for you. Penetrating oils just trick morons susceptible to confirmation bias, they don't do shit
Oxy gas just tricks morons susceptible to confirmation bias and people with a desire to feel superior to others because they love playing with fire
You've never encountered a stuck bolt in your life. Pro tip, WD-40 does nothing, the dry rusty contact surface is under immense pressure and sealed off and no oil can seep in there no matter how n:th the formula is. Heating a bolt causes heat expansion, which is actually powerful enough to move the rust and as the bolt lenghtens it is under less tensile force and therefore less friction to overcome. Ive probably removed over a 1000 completely stuck (read: snaps before opens) bolts, big and large with oxyacetylene and a hammer. I dont even bother to try without them in case of excavator track frames and such.
Another anon that knows. I do still try it but really only so I have something to do while I think up a solution that will actually work. Cut off wheel, air hammer, torch, welder? And I'll use it on bolts with exposed threads so it threads out the rest of the way smoother.
>And I'll use it on bolts with exposed threads so it threads out the rest of the way smoother.
This is the main reason I use it.
is this a troll, kek. btw penetrant and lubricant are different things
pb blaster works fine imo. and the can lasts FOREVER
FreeAll is much better, and doesn't eat paint. Plus, it's also made around the same area.
I will continue to hold the opinion penetrating oil is useless for what they advertise it for. In applications where you COULD loosen it and don't want to use extreme torque like a rusty gun? That's one thing, but if it literally wasn't coming out dry and it was going to break the fastener, oil never has helped in my experience.
Even just a little propane torch has far better odds, heat trumps all.
Depends on the fluid and the situation. I was pulling an old salwater boat engine apart and no matter how hard I ugga dugga'ed with my half inch impact, couldn't get the flywheel crank bolt off. Couldn't heat it up too hot cause the plastic stator body was right underneath. Soaked it with some Superzilla, came back 15 minutes later and the penetrating oil had climbed all the way across the flywheel and partially down the motor. Flywheel bolt zipped right off with the impact like it had never been stuck. Instances where penetrating oil actually makes a difference are rare, but when it does, it's nice to have.
a fastner is slightly undersize to the nut it threads into, its the slop one can feel. when torqued, this produces a channel on the opposing flank, thats why unsealed threads leak.
if its properly rusted in place the rust expands and seals that shut. No way in hell a large molecule like liquid hydrocarbons could make their way through that. while heatcycles or impact crack that shit apart
it's called capillary action, and you should've know how it works if you stayed in school, Jerome
When I frick your sister, her ass is so tight that it's hard to push it in. I spit on my wiener and despite her butthole being stretched out to the very max, the spit still finds its way inside her.
Kroil gay laughing at all ya all.
Ah yes Kroil. The Mary Kay of the penetrating fluids.
Just because you have to jump through some middleman to get it, doesnt mean its better than anything else.
Wd40 is not a lubricant for frick sake
Is this a slide thread?
>How is this supposed to work?
You spray it on water in hard to reach places, the mineral oil and kerosene keep it from rusting and helps evaporate the water.
>File: WD-40
Water Displacer, 40th formula
(the previous thirty-nine failed)
It was never intended to be a first choice as a lubricant
i use it as lube to frick ya mom lul
at work there was a solvent bath with hot coils at the bottom and fridge coils at the top, it made a constant rolling cloud of vapor that would degrease anything.
i stuck my hand in there to grab a part and it melted my wristwatch off.
wd-40 and pb blaster are different things. and be skeptical all you want, wd-40 works to displace water and pb blaster helps with rusted siezed shit. it only HELPS though. go fricking wrench some before you whine how you think shit might work.
In my experience, penetrants like Kroil or PB Blaster have made ZERO difference when it comes to removing most bolts. An oxy-acetylene torch is your best bet in those cases.
That doesn't mean that penetrating oils don't work at all, though. In my old highschool auto shop, we once used two whole cans of PB blaster to free up a seized small block Chevy. Other than that, I've never seen penetrants work.
Also, I hate to be that guy, but WD40 isn't really a penetrant. It's an okay-ish lubricant since it leaves behind a slick hydrocarbon film, but that's it. The most I've used it was for preventing my cheap CB antennas from rusting.
It doesnt work.
Try this one, a little expensive.
for me its LM-40
>chaptcha V WD40 V
why is every liquimoly product 2x the price for literally no reason
in europpoor its cheaper than WD-40,
5l WD40 47€
5l LM40 40€
The ultimate answer to the rusty iron things.
Iron alloys are porous and rust are even more porous, thats one way of how wd-40 penetrates in the material.
Rust is less dense than iron so it occupies more space, as soon as it is dissolved that section of the bolt thread is free and space is liberated for the wd-40 to infiltrated even more.