However, if you look around a bit, you'll be able to find a stone with a fairly fine grain & decent surface. You can rub one out on the edge and make it sharper, even if you can't shave with it. Use oil or water to keep the stone from clogging. Also look for a piece of hard steel. After giving it the stone treatment, then you can polish the edge down and get it sharper & smoother. Use the back ridge of another machete or knife, a lawn mower blade, your imagination.
Rock, something high in quartz content will work best, or straight quartz, like agate, quartz crystals, chalcedony, jasper, chert, flint are all used as actual sharpeners, as they are harder than steel.
Your specific geographical location can have more or less things that will work.
I put a knife-tier edge on my lawn mower blades with a fine chainsaw file. Bought one for 50¢ at a flea market 20 years ago. I've sharpened a lot of garden implements with it. Trick is to not use heavy pressure, use very light pressure and long, clean strokes. I don't own a machete, but it would certainly work on one. Have sharpened many hatchets and axes with it, too. One small hatchet I use to butcher deer, and it's sharp enough to skin and cleave bone. I keep it under my bed as a compliment to my .357, should it ever be required.
I cut a 2 acre property every ten days or so. I sharpen the blades before I begin each cut. They are noticeably duller at the end of the cut, even if I don't hit any rocks. The steel used on mower blades is quite soft, so even just grass will dul ltem. But, I also mulch up any small branches and other debris, I even trim out bushes & trees and just toss the small debris onto the lawn and mulch it up. It becomes part of the lawn by the next cut, very good for soil building.
Sharpening helps take out notches from small stones or other hard objects. I don't go crazy for sharpness, but you could easily cut yourself with the edge I put on them like a 'mostly sharp' knife. I don't worry about a polished edge, you can see file marks, but by using light pressure and long, fast strokes the file marks are fine rather than heavy.
The advantage of using sharp blades is that it cuts the grass off with a clean cut, plus enhances mulching. If the blade is dull, it frays the end of the grass and it dehydrates easier, getting a brown, dead tip rather than a sharply cut off & easily healed tip. I cut close to the house & in areas of high visibility first, then move on to the rest of the lawn as the blades start to get duller the further I get into the cut.
It's not really a critical thing to do, but I do it as a general maintenance of my mower at every cut, like cleaning filters, greasing the axles, cleaning under the mowing deck, checking the spark plug, generally checking for damage & wear etc. By removing the blades every week or two, I also grease the threads & use a socket wrench to put the blades back on tight, so they're always easy to take off & never loose during operation. Since they're already off, sharpening only takes about 15 or 20 minutes extra & is worth it. Just general safety & maintenance procedure, and the mower has lasted 20+ years instead of 5. A set of blades lasts about 4 or 6 years because they wear; sharpening takes less than a year off.
You cant moron. You at least need a rock.
>doesn't know how to sharpen a machete with psychokenetic force
Plebs
Use a turd. It stands to reason that if you can polish a turd to a shine, then you can use a turd to polish shiny metal.
>with literally nothing
You don't.
However, if you look around a bit, you'll be able to find a stone with a fairly fine grain & decent surface. You can rub one out on the edge and make it sharper, even if you can't shave with it. Use oil or water to keep the stone from clogging. Also look for a piece of hard steel. After giving it the stone treatment, then you can polish the edge down and get it sharper & smoother. Use the back ridge of another machete or knife, a lawn mower blade, your imagination.
Do I have to wet the stone?
No.
As is, you usually wet a stone to keep metal particles from filling the pores of the stone.
Who the frick cares about a rock you found?
use ur dick
Different grit sandpaper.
Find a smooth river rock.
Rock, something high in quartz content will work best, or straight quartz, like agate, quartz crystals, chalcedony, jasper, chert, flint are all used as actual sharpeners, as they are harder than steel.
Your specific geographical location can have more or less things that will work.
use the bottom of a coffee mug
I was gonna say a broken piece of porcelain but that's probably easier to find.
sandpaper glued to a tile or 2x4. I have heard in South and Middle America people use files to sharpen their machetes.
I put a knife-tier edge on my lawn mower blades with a fine chainsaw file. Bought one for 50¢ at a flea market 20 years ago. I've sharpened a lot of garden implements with it. Trick is to not use heavy pressure, use very light pressure and long, clean strokes. I don't own a machete, but it would certainly work on one. Have sharpened many hatchets and axes with it, too. One small hatchet I use to butcher deer, and it's sharp enough to skin and cleave bone. I keep it under my bed as a compliment to my .357, should it ever be required.
How did they cut, and how long did they last? I like sharpening knives but it's never occurred to me to put a good edge on mower blades
I cut a 2 acre property every ten days or so. I sharpen the blades before I begin each cut. They are noticeably duller at the end of the cut, even if I don't hit any rocks. The steel used on mower blades is quite soft, so even just grass will dul ltem. But, I also mulch up any small branches and other debris, I even trim out bushes & trees and just toss the small debris onto the lawn and mulch it up. It becomes part of the lawn by the next cut, very good for soil building.
Sharpening helps take out notches from small stones or other hard objects. I don't go crazy for sharpness, but you could easily cut yourself with the edge I put on them like a 'mostly sharp' knife. I don't worry about a polished edge, you can see file marks, but by using light pressure and long, fast strokes the file marks are fine rather than heavy.
The advantage of using sharp blades is that it cuts the grass off with a clean cut, plus enhances mulching. If the blade is dull, it frays the end of the grass and it dehydrates easier, getting a brown, dead tip rather than a sharply cut off & easily healed tip. I cut close to the house & in areas of high visibility first, then move on to the rest of the lawn as the blades start to get duller the further I get into the cut.
It's not really a critical thing to do, but I do it as a general maintenance of my mower at every cut, like cleaning filters, greasing the axles, cleaning under the mowing deck, checking the spark plug, generally checking for damage & wear etc. By removing the blades every week or two, I also grease the threads & use a socket wrench to put the blades back on tight, so they're always easy to take off & never loose during operation. Since they're already off, sharpening only takes about 15 or 20 minutes extra & is worth it. Just general safety & maintenance procedure, and the mower has lasted 20+ years instead of 5. A set of blades lasts about 4 or 6 years because they wear; sharpening takes less than a year off.
Cool, thanks anon
brick is ideal
Too soft
nenni. just right
Bottom of a coffee mug
>Put machete in bench vise, edge pointing upwards
>use a fine file or literally any sort of rock
Don't forget to wear gloves