I bought some steel sheets bulk recently and I was told over the phone they were untreated hot rolled 1008 sheets, when I got there they were in fact baring a galvanized coating, due to the mishap I got it all half off but now I'm stuck with coated sheets, will a P100 respirator work with an angle grinder to get most of the shit off so I can heat it up with my rosebud tip sparing me the sickness?
>t. inexperienced working with galvanized steel
You'll be fine with a strong fan blowing the fumes away, if you're nervous wear a respirator as well.
I bought a cheap milsurp gas mask and new filters exactly for stuff like that
If I'm unsure of something I put on the mask, better safe than to breathe in some fumes that will give me cancer. I prefer it over respirators because it also protects my eyes from dust, sparks or fumes that could cause irritation
>inb4 get a full face respirator
mask is cheaper and works just as well if not better, only downside is visibility
Use vinegar to dissolve it off. Don't leave it in there for multiple days as it will also start eating the steel. If you are impatient you can use muriatic acid, which is sulfuric acid. Sold at hardware stores for cleaning concrete and making meth. This is obviously unhealthy to touch and more dangerous to you than vinegar, but is way faster. I would personally not grind or heat it off since it is either way too much work or way too dangerous. Plus both can be one way tickets to warp city for sheet metal.
The good news is that the fumes can potentially just kill you with acute metal fume fever instead of cancer.
>muriatic acid, which is sulfuric acid
Nope. Sulphuric acid is not muriatic.
Muriatic is HCl
Yeah white vinegar seems the way to go if I don't want to sit there and use relatively dangerous acid, plastic drums are fricking expensive though, guess I can't cheap out on them
Buy used drums of the blue poly variety.
thanks will take a look!
This stuff is 1/8" thick, won't need to harden it when I'm done working on the pieces. If I work on more "Fine" areas I use 14 gauge 1050 carbon steel, which when ground and finished usually sit near nominal historical thicknesses for gauntlets, etc.
>you can use muriatic acid, which is sulfuric acid.
Sorry but I stopped reading the rest of your post.
Muriatic acid is HCL diluted to ~30%. It has a 1789 placard. No, I didn't need to look any of this up. I just know it.
What are you planning to do with them?
Welding is possible, just don't breathe that shit in, and grind it off.
Heating entire sheet to > zinc melting point is definitely smth you shouldnt do.
You can remove zinc chemically with hydrochloric acid btw.
I'm an armorer, make custom armor for a living, was thinking of getting a large plastic drum and filling it with white vinegar
Sell it and buy the correct stuff. If the guy can't tell galvie from hot rolled its probably china grade anyway. There is no way it's worth the time and money to strip it, I've done it before.
make sure it's really a hardenable steel before you piss away a thousand hours of work.