My brand new, 300€ water heater is worst then the old one it's replacing. Because the EU's climate insanity it's limited to 55°.
Meaning, that my shower is either cold or I get no pressure.
How can I trick this thing to heat up higher? Some resistance between the temperature probe or something like that?
It's a Vaillant electronicVED 18KW.
>55 C
That should be more than enough for modern shower head flow rates. What is your incoming water temperature? <10 C?
Don't know the temperature, don't have a thermometer. It's cold to the touch, even icy after some time.
ok, got a thermometer
it's 15°C
>15°C
Either it's broken or a breaker tripped. Note that it might have two breakers. You're not losing 40° within a short stretch of pipe, that should be obvious.
Incoming temp, anon. Incoming temp.
Oh okay. Well what's the output temp? Isn't 55°C plenty?
I'm not that guy but my relatively modern water heater spits out 60°C on a medium setting, but then it's not a tankless wonder like OP's and it's embarrassingly small so it's supposed to be mixed with cold water. 60°C is scalding.
find the termistor, look up the part number if you can. Or wire a resistor in series and see if the temperature reading goes down. Assuming it is NTC (resistance decreases as temperature increases) you want to increase resistance to get a lower reading. Just be careful you don’t bomb yourself like a moron because it’s heating to a boil thinking it’s 10 degrees.
Yes, that was my idea, too. Let's see if I can find the sensor.
Not in series, you'd want to put it in parallel. As temperature goes up, resistance increases. If you want the temperature to actually go up, you want the actual resistance to stay lower. Better, make it adjustable by using a turnpot instead of a regular resistor. Tune it until it falls into a workable range.
You might have more problems if you blow a thermal fuse, so check for one before you hardwire anything permanently.
Read up on ntc
How is this even possible, hot water MUST be over 55C at the faucet (not at the heater) to prevent legionella and give you bacteria free dishes in most EU countries as per building code.
Anon, that doesn't make any fricking sense. Go put your hand in 55 degree water and tell me you are not moronic after that.
>Anon, that doesn't make any fricking sense. Go put your hand in 55 degree water
Go in your shower and turn it on pure hot and tell me you are moronic once you stop screaming.
nta, but what the frick are you even trying to say?
Legionella prevention codes usually specify >50C or >51C temps in the hot water line to prevent the growth of the bacteria.
55C water isn't crazy hot to be coming straight from your hot water line either; this would normally be used with antiscalding valves at the point of use
I think that's for heaters with a tank. Growth takes time in warm water.
… In unchlorinated water maybe. Chlorine works even better at elevated temperatures. including degrading your PEX.
here, if unchlorinated, it’s 65°C.
Water 55 at the heater is closer to 50 at the tap. We used to do dishes with 53c running water when I worked in a pizza place
That’s exactly the problem, if you fill a line with 45 deg water, it’ll have perfect growth conditions while the water cools down to 20. Then when the tap goes on again it doesn’t die because it’s not >50C so the bacteria that don’t get flushed out can start growing again
There seems to be a variant around that only goes to 55, probably adapted to pass some countries efficiency requirements.
You need to add a water recirculation line so your pipes can hold the 55c water.
that's for boilers with tanks.
op's water heater gets put right under the sink or next to the shower so there is maybe 1 meter hot water pipe between it and the tap.
no need for a circulation
Utterly dystopian genocide of EVRO peoples
Just take cold showers
This.
Cold showers will boost your T levels.
are cold showers a meme?
I freeze in there and can't handle it am I supposed to put the knob at only 50% cold?
Yeah do what you can and over time get colder
The problem is you don't know how to use these.
The higher the temp you set it at, the lower flow it has in order to have time to actually heat up.
Mine is not EU pozzed, a 24kW model, goes to 60c max, but I keep it at 45, and that's enough to run 2 showers in the same time.
Either lower temp or buy a higher wattage unit.
>inb4 it's made in Germany
Yes but for burger market. No it doesn't run on 220A 110V.
there's no difference in flow between 30 and 55°
>Some resistance between the temperature probe or something like that?
Yes, Typically the resistance gets higher as the temp probe gets hotter but not in every case. unplugging it probably wont work because the computer will sense a fault and adding a resistor in line with the temp sensor will likely make the water heater run even colder.
your quest will be to locate your temp sensor and give us readings of the resistance when the tank is both hot and cold, Even better if you can get an exact part number.
>It's a Vaillant electronicVED 18KW.
>read user manual
>explains how to set target temp to 60 degrees (maximum capability)
0/10 effort post
Is the temperature probe immersed in the water flow, or stuck to the side of the heating vessel?
Because if the probe is accessible, why not create a stand-off between it and the heat source its measuring? Like if you grab a hot pan by the side, it's scorching, but if you grab it by the end of the handle, it's cooler. Then no messing with electrical.
>limited to 55°.
google scalding and you'll learn why, it has nothing to do with climate change
>Meaning, that my shower is either cold or I get no pressure
call a plumber, you have no clue what you are doing and you'll just end up destroying your brand new 300€ water heater
>google scalding and you'll learn why, it has nothing to do with climate change
trv mixers are mandatory here for old boilers and it makes sense to do it that way if you have an outlet some distance away
wet central heating loops were recently limited to ~55 on new installs for exactly energy saving/climate change only reasons, requiring doubling or tripling radiator area in older installs to get rooms up to temp.
42° is scortch protection 55° is climatefrickery
u are so convinced of yourself but you know jack shit
you bought the cheapest piece of shit water heater you could find and it sucks. return it and buy a better one.
Sorry to hijack but I've got a Worcester boiler that's started to leak from the bottom left but only when using the washing machine? Any idea what could be causing it or how to fix?
I've also noticed the water pressure is very low, could this be a cause or is it a result of the leak?
Water hammer.
>Your heater comes in two models - regular and Pro. You have the regular, which means the absolute max water temp you can get is 55C. The Pro goes to 60C. There is no trick or hack to make it produce hotter water.
Sure there is. Just find the thermistor, if it's a PTC then shunt the fricking thing. If it's a NTC then add a approariate resistor in series. homosexual.
Hey moron, if you gamed the resistance to make the heater run longer it would never shut off because your bullshit resistor would never report that the temp is satisfied. It would run until the relief popped or it tripped a safety. homosexual.
>A thermistor does not “report temp.” it has a resistance that varies depending on the temperature. The controller measures the voltage drop to determine its resistance, and maps that to a temperature
Like I said, the thermister reports the temp back to the controller. If you bypass it with a dummy resistor to keep it on longer it'll never shut off. good luck finding a substitute thermister that would operate the unit out of range without causing problems.
Face it, both you morons have no clue how the unit operates and your bullshit ideas won't work.
He's not saying to bypass it. He's saying to bias it you fricking mong.
Here, let me make it easy for you:
It's a PT100. At 0°C it reads 100Ω. At 55°C it reads 100+0.385*55=121.175Ω. OP wants it to think 65°C is 55°C, so he needs 125.025Ω to read as 121.175Ω, which he accomplishes by putting a 1/(1/121.175-1/125.025))=3935.15Ω resistance in parallel with the PT100. As a side effect it now also believes 6.77°C water is 0°C. Oh noooo~
>55
49 is all i ever need
you physically can't take a shower in water that's over 55c you idiot. if you're having problems with cold water in your shower, and you can determine that the water heater is producing hot water, then it has nothing to do with the temp limiting of the water heater
You're telling me if I dip my finger in boiling water for a quarter of a second I'll get instant 3rd degree burns
Best to try it out
make sure you film yourself
> All it does it report temp to the controller. You won't be able to find a resistor that will sense 60C water but report a lower temp to the controller
you don’t know what you’re talking about. A thermistor does not “report temp.” it has a resistance that varies depending on the temperature. The controller measures the voltage drop to determine its resistance, and maps that to a temperature. If you alter the resistance, you alter the voltage drop, and the controller can’t tell the difference. And if some engineer decided they’d implement validation of the thermistor’s power curve to check whether it’s “gone bad” I’ll eat my shoe.
>Vaillant electronicVED 18KW.
here is your problem that's for sinks, a shower has much more flow any you should have gotten the 24kW version,
Closeup of the whole thing
I think the white cable on top of the thermal fuse is the temp sensor?
there are also some black wires coming from the electronics going to the base of the heater tube so I'm not sure
I do not think so. The temperature sensor needs two wires. Also, those wires are heavy and probably carry mains voltage. The smaller one might be a ground? Dunno, not an electrician just a microcontroller hobbyist.
My bet would would be the pair of wires clipped to the board here lead to the temperature sensor. Just small, DC wires, and they connect to the board which presumably would have an analog-to-digital converter to measure the resistance.
Or, you know, find a service manually and find out for sure...
yes, that seems about right
it's just right behind the heating element I guess
can't really see it
ok, so this is the "Security Temperature Limiter"
STB
"Sicherheits Temperatur Begrenzer"
So now what ?
tl;dr
55C is the limit so morons aren't boiling themselves.
You don't use hot tap water for food ever.
no that's 42° idiot
55 is for CLIMATEFRICKING
You're moronic. 140F is the absolute MAX. 120-130F is normal. This is the same as 30 years ago.
frick off idiot
Die internationale Norm IEC 60335-2-35 / Edition 5 wurde in die europäische Norm "EN 60335- 2-35:2016, Sicherheit elektrischer Geräte für den Hausgebrauch und ähnliche Zwecke – Teil 2-35: Besondere Anforderungen für Durchflusserwärmer" überführt. Die Übergangsfrist dieser Normen endete am 12. Oktober 2018. Seitdem dürfen nur noch der Norm entsprechende Durchlauferhitzer in Verkehr gebracht – also von Herstellern ausgeliefert – werden.
This could be the Temp sensor
Haven't found it yet
Article no. Vaillant 101174
Can someone identify this thing?
>Vaillant 101174
So this thing is made by EAW and it's called a:
-open thermal switches
These thermal switches are used for monitoring/controlling temperature without an electricity supply. With a normally open relay, the circuit is connected upon reaching a defined temperature threshold or temperature that is too low within a predefined temperature range. The jump to an open or closed thermal switch always depends on the temperature. The circuit closes automatically within a desired temperature range.
So it's basically a switch that cuts the heater off at 55°C. So a resistance won't work, right?
Oh cool. Yeah resistance won’t change anything then. You could look for a different thermal switch with a more suitable range.
Does the heater have an adjustable temperature? If so there must be something else monitoring and controlling temperature.
I can’t find the temperature range in their catalog, or any data sheet. I suspect The switch keeps it in a safe range so that it cuts off if it gets too hot (e.g. failed thermistor doesn’t create a bomb). But I don’t know what that range is. It could allow for a higher temperature. I’d keep digging.
if you can cool that thing a little (back it out of the hot water on its own copper tube extension, de-pot it, maybe just attach a heatsink on the brass fitting, etc. etc.) it should change its behavior the way you want it to.
Wth guys? This is some brazil tier direct heating.
Buy an insulated water heater with min. 0,3 cubic meter capacity, insert heating coil, enjoy unlimited scalding water.
Bought a stainless one 2nd hand with a broken heater. This is okay, because I use it with vacuum tube solar heater.
this is the non shit version of the brazilian heater.
it is insulated (probably double insulated) and runs on 400V 3Phase power.
if correctly sized it gives you unlimited hot water, long after your 300l boiler is empty.
op is a moron and bought a sink version with only 18kW and not a 24kW shower version. BTW that would be 200/100 Amps for with Burger voltage.
what part of eu is that because we use tanks, usually 200L set at 70ish C?
>inb4 scalding
when my parents did diary farming the code required 90*C on that tank for food safety since they used that water for cleaning the milk system. we also used the same hot water for the barn bathroom and shower. thats how you teach kids to ajust their shower before getting under it.
I’m sorry they’re doing this to you. Climate control is a business that isn’t going away soon. It employs an unbelievable amount of people and is part of the phony numbers you see stimulating the economy. They are wrecking it with Africans and middle easterners and saying that making your shower cold is off setting and stimulating the economy. Nobody votes for your PM, at all.