Now that I think about it, a break open and pump combo would be nice, the way it's set now you have to break the barrel, get the shell off, use the barrel to make reset the spring on the action, put another bullet in, close it only then can you shoot, brb, going to make the dremmel sing.
That's how Europeanpeople own a gun without getting caught. Just make the barrel accept the 22lr and attach an off centre Firing pin the spring instead of buffer.
ive converted an AR 15 into a belt fed full auto machine gun. Also have some home made claymores. Tested the claymores and it still needs a little work, some of the bearings are exploding upwards.
Consider a bipod and optic, as well as box or case to carry a long belt. That's a great guerrilla squad weapon for automatic riflemen, in case you are living under a despotic regime anon.
>Tested the claymores and it still needs a little work, some of the bearings are exploding upwards.
have you tried using iv bags with water to better direct the explosion
It depends on the state your in. In theory the federal law doesn’t have anything that requires you from registering a gun you have made from scratch if you are capable of doing so… IF it is for your own personal use and you are not selling it… if you sell it then you run into requirements to have a serial number and all that…. Individual states have their own rules…. And if you aren’t capable of machining the components from scratch and instead purchase premade components to your taste and assemble them then the lower will usually have a serial number and is considered “the firearm”….
Also the way the legal system works keep in mind if your shooting it and it breaks and god forbid flying shrapnel hits anyone around you then you will most likely be found liable for the medical cost of their critical life altering injuries and ptsd resulting from the operation of your unsafe untested homemade firearm….
The answer is "it depends".
There's no such thing as a central, national gun registry. That's actually illegal. Licensed firearm dealers are required to keep records of sale for 20 years. Dealers going out of business are required to send their records to ATF where those records are converted to digital records. ATF can and does do "inspections" of dealers where records are shipped off to be converted to digital records that will be held by ATF forever, which is basically the same thing as a database. It's an end run around the spirit, intent and letter of the law.
On a state level, it varies.
Then there are "NFA items", guns and accessories regulated by the National Firearms Act of 1934. Those items generally cannot be lawfully "transferred" (permanent ownership) without undergoing a stupid process of asking permission and paying an onerous tax on a constitutional right. Unless it's an inheritance, then you still have to do the "mother may I" but the tax is omitted.
To be fair every once in a while those records are helpful…. You can generally track the heritage and history of old colt revolvers off the serial number and find where it started out it’s life..
I love how Goliath always gets the benefit of the doubt, while David is always presumed guilty when it comes to guns in this country.
Not really aiming this comment at you, but the fact that the deck is stacked against exercising a constitutional right.
A right administered by unelected bureaucrats who defy the law.
Honestly I’m not sure the whole “they have a database of gun owners” is as big an issue as it once was…. I’m pretty sure unless your really careful with cookies that your computer is probably telling anyone who knows how to look that you’ve looked at “x” gun related products, for “x” style of gun…. I expect it probably also gives away whatever ammo you search for…. Privacy with todays technology just isn’t what it used to be..
I'm not saying you're wrong. Privacy is dead. We've all signed away our souls by clicking through EULAs. There's no need for the government to lean on anyone to find out what they "need" to know. Everything you do is packaged and marketed as a commodity. Freely bought and sold. "Requested" and received at no charge by the government, on demand.
What I'm trying to say is we fricked up.
11 months ago
Anonymous
>There will be no curiosity, no enjoyment of the process of life. All competing pleasures will be destroyed. But always— do not forget this, Winston— always there will be the intoxication of power, constantly increasing and constantly growing subtler. Always, at every moment, there will be the thrill of victory, the sensation of trampling on an enemy who is helpless. >If you want a picture of the future, imagine a boot stamping on a human face— forever.
I don't know if this is what you meant but I hate how people have this dumb idea of "fairness" when it comes to self defense shootings. if you shoot someone who was trying to punch you or even hit you with a baseball bat it will probably end up in court with some rat prosecutor questioning whether you were really in danger, but if the weapons were reversed and you brained some guy who drew a gun you wouldn't even get arrested and the papers would write articles praising you.
It depends on the state your in. In theory the federal law doesn’t have anything that requires you from registering a gun you have made from scratch if you are capable of doing so… IF it is for your own personal use and you are not selling it… if you sell it then you run into requirements to have a serial number and all that…. Individual states have their own rules…. And if you aren’t capable of machining the components from scratch and instead purchase premade components to your taste and assemble them then the lower will usually have a serial number and is considered “the firearm”….
Thanks, anons, unfortunetly my country doesn't allow me the same freedom, but fortunetly I live in the boonies so laws are more sugestions
>There's no such thing as a central, national gun registry
there is though, one time I was at my ffl waiting for a transfer, He runs the FFL out of his house so he can make some cash on the side for the lulz and so he can have his SOT and frick around with building MGs and suppressors. He's cool dude and after I was done with the form he called to run the check and had them on speaker phone with me in the room. On the phone they just confirm what's on the paper. The dude on the phone literally knew everything about me and also knew the last purchase I made and even the gun. He also corrected my ffl guy as he misread what I wrote down on the paper for my place of birth and they had that info too. It was a bit freaky that the guy on the other side of the phone knew so much about me and this is stuff that is not just on a DL or in public records. So Although it's "illegal" to have that info, It would not surprise me if they had every single FFL transfer I ever made on file and with everything being digital these days it's easier to store, preserve, and search for this info.
It's a case of "in name only", like how the NSA intercepts and stores your communications without warrant. As an American citizen, that's illegal. But when they go before Congress they lie and unequivocally say they do not spy on Americans, because until they analyze the data, you haven't been spied on.
Then you run into the phenomenon of "parallel construction", where spies have spied on Americans but can't legally use the information, so they feed it to another agency who concocts an alibi for it, "washing" it so to speak so it will stand up in court.
Where everyone has seen CSI and knows the cops never lie, everyone gets a fair trial, the system isn't rigged to generate conviction and the good guy always wins. >An anonymous source says
etc.
The disparity in accountability is staggering.
Well as long as you don't live in ct you can still make your own firearms pretty easily. Even in ca and ny there are workarounds to keep your firearm legal.
10 months ago
Anonymous
What does that have to do with private party transfers being illegal without having a FFL perform a background check in Oregon?
10 months ago
Anonymous
It's a way to get a firearm without being put on the atf's illegal registry, as an alternative to private party transfers.
10 months ago
Anonymous
Why would I be worried about that? I'm not paranoid and mentally ill.
10 months ago
Anonymous
If you're not paranoid then you're mentally ill
10 months ago
Anonymous
You Trump people really are nuts. No one is out to get you.
10 months ago
Anonymous
Who?
10 months ago
Anonymous
(You)
10 months ago
Anonymous
kys unironically
the system is designed to rape you
Shit like this is why compliance is not an option.
They don't play fair, so I choose not to play.
A drill press is a fine purchase in these asinine times.
They ever want to come knocking with that registry as justification, I'm going to remind them of Mr. Weaver. Frick the ATF, frick the Feds, frick Black folk, frick israelites, and frick the jannies.
>So Although it's "illegal" to have that info, It would not surprise me if they had every single FFL transfer I ever made on file and with everything being digital these days it's easier to store, preserve, and search for this info.
I can assure you Anon that is exactly what is happening. And you know It's true because the jannies here get absolutely butt blasted and move the thread to /misc/ or 404 it everytime I post this:
Yeah, I got the idea to build a slamfire pipe shotgun with a nice handmade wood stock and barrel grip. Like the American/Filipino guerrilla shotguns from WWII, in the war against Imperial Japan.
Now I found an American from the past that had the same idea, but never took it too far really. He was a veteran from long ago and maybe just a fan of guns and gunsmithing.
Some of them look really nice honestly. I want to make my own and put a lot of love and care into it, a prototype. If I can get a good design and make it an accurate 12 gauge weapon, then I can make many of them as a woodcrafting good.
Alright, I gave it a go,
Four winds style slam action shotgun with a magazine and extractor.
There’s a cutout at the top of the rear pipe to allow the magazine to sit flush within the back pipe, allowing the barrel pipe to slide through it,
as you shove the barrel pipe back it should strip the round from the magazine and slam it again the fixed firing pin.
A small cutout in the front of the barrel should let the extractor hook the rim of the shell and drag it out as you clear the barrel rod from the barrel back.
Maybe you would need to weld a rod or two onto the outside joining both barrels together so that the barrel pipe’s extractor notch will always hit the extractor
I know, but I just want to build a steel gun.
Leaning toward a "YESWELDER" tig from Amazon.
Welder, gas regulator, tungsten electrodes, and a variety pack of stubby gas lenses adds up to $230.
I'm probably only going to use it for this one project. So yes, chinesium. Watching people use it to weld, it seems like it's able to do what I want, at a price point I can justify for a one time use item.
sounds like chinkshit to me. I suck at welding but if I had to buy a machine I would get a reputable brand like miller or lincoln
>if I had to buy a machine I would get a reputable brand like miller or lincoln
Those are not cheap, or even affordable. Anon would probably be better off rolling the dice with chinkshit and resorting to a Miller if it doesn't do what he wants. It's not like he needs long duty cycles or crazy high amperages. Worst case he's out $230
doing the little paddle mag release right now cus i need to go to a friends place for try #3 on pressing the barrel lol
im planning on FCAW in my apartment (GASLESS), hopefully thatll work well enough. my welding experience is a lil stick welding welding, which, is probably harder than fcaw lmao so im not that worried. maybe not worried enough.
i () also got a pps43 kit in process but its early early in the build, just getting all the receiver chunks cleaned up nice. will probably practice welding with it b4 welding the cetme, just bcus its such a cheap kit.
I'm trying to figure out how to make a pump action 5.7mm carbine that is compatible with P90 mags because my buddy came up with it when we were arguing over what the most moronic gun one could make and try to sell to people could possibly be. I mostly want to see if it's possible to actually make something like this. Might have to source some KelTec-brand cocaine.
Bonus points if you sell it with clips to hold 2 p90 mags back to back so you can rotate, flip, then lock the other into place so you can rock and roll through 100 rounds and 50-80 dollars..
I am currently doing the technical draft drawings for a 9mm conversion of a 5.56 gun. I have all I need to machine it and a conversion kit doesnt exist as of now.
Nothing recent, but years ago, teenage me and equally teenage stupid friend decided to make a musket out of plumbing pipe, scrap wood a lighter, and using his dads shotgun shells which we tore apart to use the gunpowder, we fired candles out of it.
Thinking back on those days it's a fricking wonder either of us survived, we did a lot of horribly stupid things.
Last night i came up with a gun design as i was falling asleep, sadly i won't be able to make it for however many years it takes me tonget educated enough to get a license to make one.
Its not current as I made it years and years ago, but I recently repainted it cuz the last coat of spray paint was almost completely worn off from heavy use.
Taurus Spectrum started acting up again with FTE this time. Took it apart and polished the feed ramp, the ejector, and the breech face. I think brass with excessive head stamps caused enough friction to frick things up. Honestly this gun is more work than it is worth. You can only shoot a couple magazines before the barrel heats up enough to open groups up astronomically.
Very cool. Did you make it all from scratch or did you do parts shopping?
Dude, it's a spectrum. It's a tiny, cheap .380 made for budget concealed carry. It's not meant to shoot multiple magazines in quick succession, much less to do that accurately.
For FTE, check your extractor (make sure it still has a hook) and polish your chamber if you want something to actually do. The rear of the case has no friction bearing on it, only the sides of the case as its being extracted. Usually problems like that are due to ammo and poor grip. Very first thing I tell people are to try other brands of ammo, and are doubly sure you always have a firm grip on the gun. Those tiny pocket pistols are too small to get a good hold of them. All those types of tiny 380s are relatively unreliable in the first place, and Taurus in general gets a lot of lemons.
How else am I going to train with it? I like to shoot my guns.
FTF, not FTE. My bad. I can see exactly where the rim gets stuck. It then wedges the bullet between the breech face and the lower part of the feed ramp at such an angle it won't chamber. I polished all areas where it touches. When I first bought it, all ammo was 14% light primer strikes. Sent it in to Taurus and they fixed that problem. I like to buy in bulk, so I bought Norma 380. Turned out my gun will still do light primer strikes with norma ammo. Bought some Speer lawman since they use the same primer as CCI blazer, which has proven to work. After a few hundred rounds, I started experiencing these FTF. My grip is as solid as it can be on it.
I made the receiver tube, grip, and stock from scratch, the barrel and bolt came from Indianapolis ordinance, and the fcg and fcg housing was from a WW2 parts kit.
That highly depends on what STEN or MP3008 model you plan to copy. In this case its based on the mkIII which is nothing fancy. The barrel is just kinda sandwiched in between two bushings which are welded or riveted in place. Tolerances are tight enough it can't rattle around. It can spin freely sorta like an axel though. Surprisingly, this hasn't really seemed to impact accuracy. It gets 4 inch groups at 100 yards. Considering I built it in my garage with hand tools and random parts I ordered offline I think 4 MOA is acceptable.
You need better matierials than that. STENs are simple, but they aren't THAT simple. /k/ likes to make it sound like you can just trip into a pile of scrap metal holding a hand file and a copy of professor parabellum's diy sten guide and then get up off the floor holding a fully finished firearm. Thats because they've never actually tried making one. They actually take a lot of work and you need to have the right stuff or you are just making some STEN shaped favela zipgun.
You need better matierials than that. STENs are simple, but they aren't THAT simple. /k/ likes to make it sound like you can just trip into a pile of scrap metal holding a hand file and a copy of professor parabellum's diy sten guide and then get up off the floor holding a fully finished firearm. Thats because they've never actually tried making one. They actually take a lot of work and you need to have the right stuff or you are just making some STEN shaped favela zipgun.
Forgive me for posting reddit. https://www.reddit.com/r/brandonherrara/comments/v3lo22/homemade_closed_bolt_sten_i_guess/
If it don't work, I'll buy a real tube. It'll be practice if that is the case.
Guys, how do I file a barrel square? Besides a file, what other tools would I need to ensure that it's square with minimal imperfections I don't have a lathe.
It's a 9mm pistol, those Brownells piloted cutters absolutely ruin the lands and grooves, I've tried them before, metal shavings will get in-between the brass pilot and bore and scratch everything.
Guys, how do I file a barrel square? Besides a file, what other tools would I need to ensure that it's square with minimal imperfections I don't have a lathe.
if you can get it close enough, then a sharpening stone, plenty of water and a level should get you that final few thousandths
I want to machine X, I dont have a machine.
I want to destil alcohol, I dont have a stil.
I want to drive on the freeway, I dont have a motorized vehicle.
Maybe get one of those two piece clamping collars from the hardware store and use that as a guard/jig. I used a Dremel grinding bit to make a little crown on mine after, just to make it look prettier when it is caked in petrified carbon. Some would make you think it is going to be a 10 MOA rifle doing this but that's because they are morons.
Yeah, I took my Model 1892 apart because I'm tired of that b***h not feeding what I put in her.
I opened up the rear of the cartridge guides a bit, removed .04 off the carrier stop, reprofiled the ejector, and am devising a way to slightly decrease the angle of the carrier relative to the bore.
Less than $16 for a low end tube/spring/buffer/nut/plate that will still be miles ahead of a wish set.
https://www.righttobear.com/5-pack-ts-mil-spec-6-position-buffer-tube-kit/
https://www.deltateamtactical.com/employee-favorites-buffer-parts-kit-ar-15-carbine-castle-nut-al-1053-mil-spec-receiver-end-plate-mil-spec-buffer-tube.html
I put a wolff spring kit in my Uberti Cattleman 2. Now if only I could shoot it remotely consistently, I need to either learn to shoot from the hip like cowboys did(n't) or put a red dot on it.
Jokes aside, I have considered putting a low profile red dot on it for shits n gigs, maybe even paint it so it looks like its made of brass or hardcased. I am concerned that any machining to the top of the frame may weaken it though so I don't think I want to drill and tap for a pic rail. But perhaps I could rig up something to pinch onto the frame like a picatinny or weaver mount normally would. I could possibly shave down the edges there without reducing the structural integrity too much.
It's my understanding that the cylinder and barrel are your primary load bearing components while firing.
As for longevity of the weapon, yeah, removing metal from the top of the frame is probably a bad idea. >Pinch onto the frame
Revolver claw mounts. I mean, if it works, it's not stupid.
Gotta get rounds through it… focus on making sure you grip it consistently, same finger placement, same feel…. Only real way to build the muscle memory..
I've got an old Sears Roebuck 16 Gauge bolt action shotgun I'm trying to restore. It's worthless, but it was my dad's first gun. I had to do some pretty aggressive rust removal from the barreled action and bolt since it was seized. Need to give it another full pass to remove the blueing and redo it. Stock has been completely taken down to bare wood and is ready for stain. I've just been trying to figure out how I want to finish it - mostly between doing a weathered oak stain with browned metal or doing a rich mahogany with a bright blueing.
It's going to be a wall hanger until I can find parts for the feed ramp and magazine. They're so hard to come by that I may have to buy a donor rifle or just have a professional gunsmith fabricate them. Not terribly urgent, but it'd by cool if I could pass it to my son when he's old enough to shoot it.
Always check ebay thats where I get a lot of my unobtanium parts. Also, look up your model and see if it has a recall on the bolt. Some of those sears bolt action shotguns had issues with the bolts. My Granddad has a 20 gauge one but it isnt one of the lots subject to a recall so thats good.
So if i was to build a caploch or flintlock rifle how would i attach the "end cap" metal piece to the barrel? Welding would ruin the tempering of the barrel i imagine.
Could i plug the end of the barrel and then use pins to hold it in place along with solder?
It's a DIY pistol kit. The rib's what guides the ramrod into the stock. My issue is that since it's slightly bent, it pushes the barrel slightly up which means that the barrel retainer (green) sits too high and I can't push the barrel retainer wedge through when I assemble the gun.
I figure my 3 options are >Bend the bent rib straight >File down the brass forend cap that holds the rib to make room for the bent rib >File down the inside of the barrel retainer so that the wedge can fit through
Out of those 3 I figure that just bending the rib straight so it fits properly in the forend cap is the safest option.
probably the best way would be to just solder the rib down, but that might frick up the blueing. if you want to try to straighten it you can put it in a vise with soft jaws right where the bend is and then tap it with a rubber mallet to try to bend it back in the other direction.
Has anyone tried a slamgire knife? Like a really short slamfire with a minor spring in it as a safety measure and just meleeing something with it?. I imagine the recoil might rocket it out of your hand but just a thought of a disposable breach tool.
how would you design a carry-handle style picatinny setup?
suppose >you start with picatinny rail blank >you need to fit a charging handle underneath it ala famas >generous clearance/height for optic like fast riser
im thinking a pair of legs dovetailed with the picatinny
More of a design project, been sketching up a lot of crap on Autocad. Trying to design a bullpup with relatively easy shoulder transitions by having conventional ejection, albiet conventional ejection that's forward-biased as much as humanly possible. ADD kicked in and for the past few weeks I've meen mulling over gas-assisted blow forward actions.
>gas-assisted blow forward actions.
You just gave me an idea to crack the problem of building a not completely fricking dangerous 5.56 semiautomatic locking mechanism. >Gas delayed blow forward >Fixed breach face >Reciprocating barrel >Piston made from steel pipe >Receiver made from steel pipe >5 or more Lugs that lock into the receiver made from water or Lazer cut steel sheets (maybe you can build this with a drill press?) >AR-15 barrel >Use the barrel nut (sic? The ring round the chamber on the barrel extension not sure what it's called, tbh) as a camming surface
Should be not completely fricking suicidal
Idea for lug design shamelessly ripped off from here
https://archive.org/details/edoc.site_pump-action-shotgun-plans-professor-parabellum
Btw, the idea here is to use a minimum of firearms parts (so, the barrel), and no milling machines or CNC machines to make a viable semiautomatic 5.56 rifle along the lines of FGC 9. Also, I have no fricking clue what I'm doing here, lol
Then it's not gas delayed and I'm not sure what you're trying to get across. At that point why not make it short recoil or just normal gas operation with a piston.
10 months ago
Anonymous
shit, you are right. Idk why i said gas delayed. I'ts just gas operated. I cant think of a way to home build short recoil
10 months ago
Anonymous
>I cant think of a way to home build short recoil
Well what tools do you have to work with? All depends on that.
10 months ago
Anonymous
bump
10 months ago
Anonymous
bump
10 months ago
Anonymous
Basically, I'm trying to figure out a way to do something like the FGC 9 with the only extra tool being a drill press. Perhaps a better welder. Other than that 3d printer and hand tools. Nothing costing more than a few hundred bucks
10 months ago
Anonymous
>3D printing
I ignore 3D printing because it's gay regardless of its effectiveness, but if you're trying to make a 5.56 rifle with pipes and shit you're probably looking at a difficult time. I'm sure there must be some correctly sized tube out there with the rare metallurgical qualities necessary to safely contain the pressure, but I'm equally sure you won't find it easily. What you could do is opt for using an AR-15 barrel instead, and then build around that. But even then you'd need to be very careful and thoughtful with your bolt manufacture and design, or just straight up use an AR bolt, which I assume you don't want to do. From there you'll basically just be making a gas system / other system + the receiver + the trigger group + any furniture, all of which 3D printing is more suited to, but is probably much less exciting for you.
If material properties weren't a factor you could probably do your gas assisted blow forward like you mentioned, but a short recoil system would be a lot better considering what you're working with there.
10 months ago
Anonymous
I was planning on using an AR barrel. If I use 3D printing, it would be on low-wear, relatively complex parts, and probably buttstock/ lower receiver bits.
How would you get short recoil to work? The issue is that you can't have complex geometry, essentially.
One guy came up with an interesting idea in the other thread. It may work (see here)
[...]
[...]
10 months ago
Anonymous
>How would you get short recoil to work? The issue is that you can't have complex geometry, essentially.
Well if we're talking 3D printing then, well, I'm not sure what all printers can and can't do these days. But broadly speaking I would mount your barrel to a "sled" and then have that sled run in a track on your frame, with a sort of acceleration lever mounted on the sled that after a certain short amount of distance traveled will run into a surface on the frame, and push the bolt carrier backward. The sled would run out of track soon after that and come to a stop, but the bolt carrier would probably still be moving backward with some decent speed. You could put that point 'sooner' in your cycle or later depending on if it's opening too violently or too early, or go the other way if there are issues with cycling or ejection etc.
There may or may not be magazine issues with this that a person would have to put some thought into designing around, but I put about a minute of thought into the above and it seems like something that would be doable, assuming you're already working with a professionally made AR barrel and bolt and carrier. There's probably better ideas that than both with and without 3D printing, try coming up with some.
10 months ago
Anonymous
>Well if we're talking 3D printing then, well, I'm not sure what all printers can and can't do these days.
Basically just plastic, so all of your parts with heavy wear or high pressure need to be steel. The issue is locking/unlocking without using prefab bolt parts or a mill. I think I coud design a gas operated blow forward gun using an AR15 bolt and barrel
>I did see a guy trying to hand fabricate an AR-15 (iirc) bolt system using hand tools. Looked like it was an absolute b***h.
That sounds fricking cool, got a link?
It's not quite as absurd as I remember, but still pretty cool. He's using a cheap mill. I think he's trying to case harden/heat treat the shit at home.
https://www.reddit.com/user/Advanced-Payment-358/
10 months ago
Anonymous
>I think I coud design a gas operated blow forward gun using an AR15 bolt and barrel
To my knowledge what makes blow forward work is the friction between the bullet and the barrel, but that probably depends on the gun being unlocked at the time of firing. The only way around that is if the friction from the bullet going down the barrel is great enough to move the barrel AND the bolt forward and with enough speed to have the barrel continue moving forward after unlocking, which I don't think would actually happen.(Note when I say "bolt" here I mean the bolt head assembly rather than the entire BCG. The BCG weighs even more)
You could maybe strap a booster on your barrel that redirects the gas rearward but that might not create enough force either. The bolt and barrel on an AR are already optimized for lightness (generally, anyway) but they still weigh what they weigh. Oh, also you'd need a return spring acting against the barrel the entire time, otherwise what you have is a single shot you need to reset every shot.
And even if you're lucky and the bullet-rifling friction is high enough to drag the barrel and bolt forward enough to unlock while fighting against the return spring, you've gotta deal with ejecting the round once it's extracted from the barrel and also feeding a new round into the gun. There are ways you can do that, a great many problems can be overcome as long as you're willing to sacrifice weight or complexity etc, but it's not a cake walk.
Also just in case this thread 404's before I get to comment here again, we should have more of these. They're pretty fun even for how little I was involved.
10 months ago
Anonymous
I'm not an engineer but I don't think friction has anything to do with it. when you shoot the cartridge you have bolt thrust from the case head to the bolt face. in a blowback design the barrel is fixed and the bolt moves back. in a blow forward design it would have a fixed breech and a moving barrel.
10 months ago
Anonymous
Why would fixing the bolt being fixed in place cause the barrel to want to shoot forward if not for friction from the bullet? The friction generated from the gas would be minimal, and there aren't any other forces at work.
Bolt thrust exists from the gas pressure pushing back against the case, which pushes back against the bolt. This gas pressure also pushes forward against the rear of the bullet (It also pushes in every single direction, but since the barrel doesn't warp meaningfully it can sort of be ignored). The bolt is able to move in the exact direction the pressure is trying to push it. The same can't be said for a blow forward, so it must be bullet friction.
10 months ago
Anonymous
>Why would fixing the bolt being fixed in place
Why would the bolt being fixed in place*
10 months ago
Anonymous
if there's force backwards towards the bolt face then there's an equal force forwards on the barrel.
10 months ago
Anonymous
>if there's force backwards towards the bolt face then there's an equal force forwards on the barrel.
Not in the way you think there is, no. The case basically acts as a big wind sock for all those burning gasses, and the pressure pushes it rearward, which pushes the bolt and gets that moving. The same is not true for the barrel in any way except for the bullet. The gas pressure isn't going to 'catch' on the rifling (to a meaningful extent), and there aren't any baffles built into the inside of the barrel for the gas to act upon. The only thing it can act upon that would prove effective in any meaningful way is the very slight taper in the chamber after the case mouth but before the barrel, which isn't much at all, or the bullet itself. So the gas pushes the bullet and the bullet pushes the barrel since its pushing through the rifling.
10 months ago
Anonymous
even if you were shooting a teflon bullet out of a smoothbore barrel you would still have gas pressure inside the barrel because of inertia of the bullet. the pressure would be trying to push the breech away from the barrel, but since the breech is fixed the barrel would move in the opposite direction.
10 months ago
Anonymous
>you would still have gas pressure inside the barrel
Yes, but not in a way that results in blow forward operation. You would have gas pressure in the barrel even if there was no bullet at all, but because there are few features(practically none, but to be fair I'll say few since the rifling is there and there could possibly be the very slightest taper in the barrel even though those wouldn't amount to anything) inside the barrel that would actually have that gas pressure act upon them in a way that propels the barrel forward, it will not be propelled forward.
It's like putting a bit of wet mushy paper inside the end of a straw, and then blowing into the other end. The blowing action will push the plugged straw out of your mouth with a lot of force so you have to hold it there, but once the mushy paper shoots out of the straw, the straw no longer has nearly as much tendency to get blown out of your mouth. The key is the projectile going down the barrel, not the pressure itself which the straw is very good at not getting effected by if not for that projectile.
Much like the straw, the barrel is very good at not getting effected in a way that propels or inclines it forward.
Another example might be a sail. If the wind is coming straight on toward the sail's widest point, all of the wind that can push against the sail IS pushing against the sail, so you get the maximum pressure the wind can give which equates to the greatest momentum. If instead the wind comes at a very steep angle to the sail, then less of the wind is pushing against the sail, and you get a much lesser pressure and a much lesser momentum. An AR-15 barrel, and pretty much any barrel that I've ever heard of, will be the equivalent to a sail turned at a steep angle to the wind. There are either no or minimal features present that will be inclined forward from the gas pressure in a meaningful and USEFUL way.
10 months ago
Anonymous
blow forward works like the straw example, but has nothing to do with friction pulling the barrel along with it. if that was the case then all guns would recoil forward. the straw moves because there is back pressure coming out the end and nothing to hold it in place.
10 months ago
Anonymous
>if that was the case then all guns would recoil forward.
They do, as evidenced by frame stretch on certain classic BP revolvers. It's just that the forces generated by that are much less than the forces generated from the case pushing or slamming back against the bolt face, which eventually causes everything including the barrel and the shooters shoulder to get pushed backward. If you somehow removed the rearward push you would experience a very slight forward pull, same reason pushing a bullet down a barrel with a rod will require you to hold a barrel tightly, there's a lot of friction between the bullet and barrel.
10 months ago
Anonymous
it's not because of friction. the bullet could be made out of a frictionless material and the barrel would still blow forward because of gas pressure against the breech face.
10 months ago
Anonymous
Respectfully anon, you keep repeating that but you offer no explanation as to how it could be. How does pressure pushing REARWARD against the breech face allow for FORWARD momentum of the barrel, in any way other than by relying on the bullet and its friction and its momentum born from the forward-expanding gas and forward-pushing pressures?
Even with the forward pressure from the gasses, if the bullet was frictionless how would the barrel get enough forward momentum from just the gas alone rushing through it to do anything? The bullet is a big fat sail, it takes up almost all the room in the barrel and almost all of the gas pressure going forward runs into it, and propels it through the barrel. The barrel by itself doesn't have any such sail effect, so how could it possibly function in a blow-forward gun without the bullet acting as a sail and imparting that momentum to it?
10 months ago
Anonymous
the gas pressure inside the barrel makes the two parts want to push apart. since the breech is fixed and the barrel is not that means the barrel is pushed away from the breech. it has nothing to do with sails or catching wind. you are basically saying that rockets only work because the fuel is pushing the inside of the rocket.
10 months ago
Anonymous
>the gas pressure inside the barrel makes the two parts want to push apart.
And the only reason that is the case to an extent that actually results in cycling in a blow-forward is because of the friction of the bullet. If the bullet were frictionless where the barrel is concerned then the majority of the force normally acting upon the barrel to push it forward would be gone.
>since the breech is fixed and the barrel is not that means the barrel is pushed away from the breech.
And if the bullet were zipping through the barrel without friction and therefor giving the expanding gasses tremendously less compression and a nearly free and open pathway to escape, just how much forward momentum would be applied to the barrel as compared to a bullet that does experience friction normally?
A frictionless bullet wouldn't be the exact same as trying to fire a blow forward gun with a cartridge that didn't have a bullet at all, but it would be a hell of a lot closer to that than what happens when you fire a normal cartridge in a blow forward. You're not looking at a plugged barrel, you're looking at something much closer to an empty barrel sans bullet.
10 months ago
Anonymous
you still have the wrong impression that the barrel is being pushed forward by the bullet which is not the case. the barrel is being blown forward by the gas pressure against the breach which is why it's called blow forward. even if there was no friction between the bullet and the barrel, as long as the bullet is blocking the gas from escaping out the muzzle there will be gas pressure trying to escape from the chamber end. it's literally the same as blowback but with a different moving part.
10 months ago
Anonymous
>you still have the wrong impression that the barrel is being pushed forward by the bullet which is not the case.
So your claim is that the bullet squeezing itself through the barrel at very high speeds isn't pushing the barrel forward at all? How could that be? If you've ever tried pushing a squib through a barrel and out the muzzle you would have experienced quite a lot of difficulty in that and it would have required a great deal of force, so why wouldn't that same amount of force not be applied when the bullet is traveling down the barrel from the gas pressure? And why wouldn't that force be a major contributor to the barrel moving forward? Perhaps I'm being overly pedantic here and taking your words too much at face value?
>as long as the bullet is blocking the gas from escaping out the muzzle
But if the bullet were frictionless it would not be blocking the gas to the extent it normally does, which is my point here. If it were frictionless it would be moving much much faster down the barrel while also allowing the gasses propelling it to move faster and with less impediment. That means a great deal less pressure. So much less that the forward momentum it would impart on the barrel would be comparable though not equal to the amount of force the gasses would impart on the barrel were there no bullet to begin with - or in other words, the gasses would impart insufficient force and momentum.
The presence of the bullet and the friction it has within the barrel is vital to function and what you're describing would not work without that friction.
10 months ago
Anonymous
So, that being established, how much would you actually need? Would an unlocking the barrel with gas ported from the same place as in, say, an AR or an AK leave enough force for the barrel to move forward?
10 months ago
Anonymous
The problem is unlocking an AR bolt from an AR barrel using an AR gas port would be like 90 percent of how a normal AR functions, and at that point why not just make it a normal AR?
I guess the answer is "it's cooler this way" and you're certainly right, but the thought does come to mind.
Also the big problem here is if the bolt is locked there will be no appreciable forward motion at all, which means you'll either have to use the gas to make forward motion which I guess could maybe possibly work, or you'd have to have an unlocked bolt which is a problem for 5.56.
All this together is why I think a short recoil design made using an AR15 barrel and bolt would be easier than a blow forward.
10 months ago
Anonymous
The problem is unlocking an AR bolt from an AR barrel using an AR gas port would be like 90 percent of how a normal AR functions, and at that point why not just make it a normal AR?
I guess the answer is "it's cooler this way" and you're certainly right, but the thought does come to mind.
Also the big problem here is if the bolt is locked there will be no appreciable forward motion at all, which means you'll either have to use the gas to make forward motion which I guess could maybe possibly work, or you'd have to have an unlocked bolt which is a problem for 5.56.
All this together is why I think a short recoil design made using an AR15 barrel and bolt would be easier than a blow forward.
>which means you'll either have to use the gas to make forward motion which I guess could maybe possibly work
Actually come to think of it maybe you could strap what amounts to a gas tube to the barrel, and then have it slide onto a fixed piston on the frame, and it might possibly generate enough force to unlock the gun. Though worth noting that at that point you're not reliant on the bullet at all like you would be in a normal blow-forward since by the time the gas pressures have started propelling the barrel forward enough to become unlocked from the bolt, the bullet will be down range.
10 months ago
Anonymous
That was basically the original idea I had here
https://i.imgur.com/z96ESZi.jpg
>gas-assisted blow forward actions.
You just gave me an idea to crack the problem of building a not completely fricking dangerous 5.56 semiautomatic locking mechanism. >Gas delayed blow forward >Fixed breach face >Reciprocating barrel >Piston made from steel pipe >Receiver made from steel pipe >5 or more Lugs that lock into the receiver made from water or Lazer cut steel sheets (maybe you can build this with a drill press?) >AR-15 barrel >Use the barrel nut (sic? The ring round the chamber on the barrel extension not sure what it's called, tbh) as a camming surface
Should be not completely fricking suicidal
As modified by an anon in a different thread
I was planning on using an AR barrel. If I use 3D printing, it would be on low-wear, relatively complex parts, and probably buttstock/ lower receiver bits.
How would you get short recoil to work? The issue is that you can't have complex geometry, essentially.
One guy came up with an interesting idea in the other thread. It may work (see here)
[...]
[...]
10 months ago
Anonymous
I think he's right mostly anon. Blanks have (almost) zero recoil. If you fired a frictionless bullet in a vacuum, you also would not have high recoil, because the gas would expand at essentially the same rate that they would as blanks. There would not be much rearward pressure on the case, because the gas would following the pay of least resistance (forward, just like with a blank)
10 months ago
Anonymous
blanks have little recoil because there's no projectile. recoil is different from bolt thrust.
>you still have the wrong impression that the barrel is being pushed forward by the bullet which is not the case.
So your claim is that the bullet squeezing itself through the barrel at very high speeds isn't pushing the barrel forward at all? How could that be? If you've ever tried pushing a squib through a barrel and out the muzzle you would have experienced quite a lot of difficulty in that and it would have required a great deal of force, so why wouldn't that same amount of force not be applied when the bullet is traveling down the barrel from the gas pressure? And why wouldn't that force be a major contributor to the barrel moving forward? Perhaps I'm being overly pedantic here and taking your words too much at face value?
>as long as the bullet is blocking the gas from escaping out the muzzle
But if the bullet were frictionless it would not be blocking the gas to the extent it normally does, which is my point here. If it were frictionless it would be moving much much faster down the barrel while also allowing the gasses propelling it to move faster and with less impediment. That means a great deal less pressure. So much less that the forward momentum it would impart on the barrel would be comparable though not equal to the amount of force the gasses would impart on the barrel were there no bullet to begin with - or in other words, the gasses would impart insufficient force and momentum.
The presence of the bullet and the friction it has within the barrel is vital to function and what you're describing would not work without that friction.
even if the bullet had zero friction it would still block the gas because of inertia. stop fixating on friction. think about how a regular blowback works. blow forward is literally the same function but with the barrel moving instead of the breech. the relative motion is exactly the same. if you put a blow forward gun in a vise holding the barrel and pulled the trigger with a string it would turn into a blowback.
Bedded my rem vssf 308 with devcon. Really happy with how it turned out. Went from roughly 1.25" to 1" at 150m
cool here is a garand I bungled my way through. there were some bubbles so I had to grind it down and do a second coat. how did you hold the action in the stock? I still don't know if it's better to do it with the action screws in place or not.
10 months ago
Anonymous
Blowback operated guns don't work with blanks though, because you need chamber pressure. Without air friction and barrel friction, you have very little chamber pressure, because the explosion is essentially in an open system
10 months ago
Anonymous
it's not because of fricking friction. if you put a bfa on a blowback gun it would work.
10 months ago
Anonymous
>it would still block the gas because of inertia.
It wouldn't block the gas for nearly as long or nearly as 'hard', is my point. I believe that difference would result in a non cycling barrel.
>stop fixating on friction
Friction is an important part of this. You surely can't say that the projectile moving down the barrel doesn't impart any movement to the barrel, and it's unreasonable to say that a frictionless bullet would produce the same results as a normal bullet. Without that friction whatever movement that is normally imparted to the barrel from the bullet wouldn't be there, and the bullet would be exiting the barrel far sooner and at a far higher speed than normal, and the gas pressure wouldn't build to the extent that it does normally. All that together means non-function(to be polite and fair I'll add a "I believe" to the end of this statement).
it's not because of fricking friction. if you put a bfa on a blowback gun it would work.
Sorry anon, the consensus has been reached and I've been declared objectively correct by popular vote.
10 months ago
Anonymous
The guns that have operated with forward reciprocating barrels do have mag issues. You woould need some sort of a mag cutoff at the top of mags to hold the rounds in, because they would need to be feeding straight up. You could combine it with a barrel hold open (like an AR bolt hold open), which would make your manual of arms a bit more intuitive.
10 months ago
Anonymous
>The guns that have operated with forward reciprocating barrels do have mag issues.
I was talking about short recoil in that case.
Are there parts on guns that you modify frequently to improve function?
Do you think there would be a market for (nearly) drop ib replacement parts with those modifications already done?
Like the other anon said, all of the good-ish ideas like glock parts and triggers and spring replacements etc etc are already done by a ton of other companies, and the competition is too stiff. You'd need something unique.
The parts kit I'm thinking of designing is very niche, only one particular gun and one particular audience for it.
I'm not out to make mondo-bucks or any really, it's a passion project. I'll probably start by 3d printing prototypes designed in CAD until I get the desired results across several MFGs.
>one particular gun
Which one?
10 months ago
Anonymous
This'n
I want to design and sell a kit(s) for 1892 Winchesters(repros anyway) so that they can feed longer cartridges with ideally minimal gunsmithing(fitting).
The kit would include left and right cartridge guides, an ejector, and a carrier. The carrier and ejector determine how long of a cartridge will fit into the action from the magazine tube in the first place. If the carrier stop is too far forward and the ejector too proud of the bolt face, then the nose of a long bullet will hit the reciever between chamber and mag tube when the carrier is supposed to raise. That's a non-start.
Once that's sorted, you need a carrier that is aligned with the bottom of the chamber and perhaps modified so it raises at a shallower angle. This will prevent the bullet nose from striking the top of the chamber.
Then the cartridge guides will need to be made so they raise the rear of the cartridge earlier so the long bullet enters the chamber as square as possible, basically the forward portion of the rim slot is moved further back.
Do you think 3D printed versions of these parts would hold up to test cycling?
10 months ago
Anonymous
shit, you are right. Idk why i said gas delayed. I'ts just gas operated. I cant think of a way to home build short recoil
Or should I say, gas operated, delayed blow forward? I feel like the diagram sort of explains it
My only real project at the moment is an attempt to fix the play and timing of a Colt Lightning .38. We also got a beat up Dan Wesson in used that one of the guys is gonna get, I'm gonna try rust bluing it to fix up the white spots. Otherwise my days get filled with people bringing in scopes to mount or their grandpappy's .22 that has been sitting in the barn for the past 50 years.
I lucked into it too. I was sales for a few years before our smith moved on. During my time there I helped out a lot in the back doing the cleanings and simple shit like AR builds or trigger installs. I'd watch our smith as he would do barrel chops, threading, and other machine work, and he would show me how to do different things. He left to pursue better things and we were without for a while. We would still do the small shit, but only just recently did I get our lathe working again and I've started playing with that. So far I've threaded a few spare 10/22 barrels we had laying around and I cut and threaded, then pinned and welded a Mini 14.
Now, I'll totally lean on that experience whenever I need to find a new gig, but I don't plan on leaving until those fricks fire me. Once you're in that line of work, the best thing to do is to network. Most of these old timey type of professions still rely on reputation and word of mouth to get anywhere, unless you to SDI or something and get a certificate. Then you can go work for some big name brand. Mossberg will not sell you some parts if you do not have a gunsmithing certificate. I had a customer that broke the safety on his mossberg 464, and Mossberg wouldn't send me the part if I couldn't supply that. Otherwise they would require the gun get sent in. So instead, I made the part on the lathe out of some 1/4" hex bar.
I got a degree but none of the big companies will hire me
What was wrong with that 92?
it's not a 92 it's a colt lightning rifle. the loading gate had been replaced by some bubba one that wasn't tempered correctly so it would get stuck and jam the entire thing up. I spent forever trying to find one, then tried ordering an italian reproduction part only to find out the dimensions weren't even close, and eventually had to just make one.
Anon please, look at the image that I responded to. That is a Winchester model 1892, the lever action is the dead give away lmao.
The gun you seem to think it should be is a pump action and can't be mistaken.
welp guess I'm moronic and posted the wrong image. here's the actual lightning with the loading gate I made for it. after I was sure that it would fit I went back and scalloped it out a little and rust blued it.
A remington 700 in pic related wildcatted to a .338 (because frick finding .330 bullet and barrel). I'm basically just starting as I wait for the action
Thanks. Is there any barrel maker you can recommend? I'm not wanting super high tier but I don't want garbage either. Unsure if I should go with McGowan as I heard they can frick up your order. It's the only one I know of that can do a chamberless prefit without needing to email them directly for it
well that was your first mistake. remingtons are shit. I don't know why you want an unchambered prefit since you are better off cutting the action threads at the same time as you chamber the barrel.
Ah, so basically what the military is doing now then.
https://i.imgur.com/MM6l5ie.jpg
you got any gunsmithing projects, /k/?
I’ve been making guns for a long time. Dreams have moved from making single stack magwells/magazines into double stack to making home made fire spreaders.
Currently my dream is based off of the knowledge I’ve collected from my field of work. I would like to buy one of those shitty 400 dollar rail guns that fires metal balls at nerf gun speed.
I want to then reverse engineer one for myself to have super conductors rather than whatever gay magnet they’re using.
I want to replace it’s projectile with a huge metal needle made of rare earth metals.
I want to replace it’s power source with a 30 foot rectangular cable running to multiple deuce and a half mounted military Fermont MEP-802 5 kilowatt generators. I would need to walk along the truck as it moves, but I hope to either send projectiles through 4 inches of armor or die in a massive arc of electricity.
Thank you anon. I already have all the money I need. Just had my first kid and finished building a new house in the ashes of my old one so I’ve been sort of busy for the past year. Dreams have gone to the back burner like so many other men, but I don’t intend to stop creating. I wish I could tell you some of the projects I’ve worked on.
Currently working on 3 P80s but once you've done one, you've really done it all. Looking to try my hand at 80% 1911s but I think I'll get real tired of handsanding
You should take on the time traveler challenge me and my friends made up. Imagine making a clone of a preexisting gun with tools that would’ve existed 500 years ago. You would live life with the knowledge that you could build a firearm with a burlap sack containing hand tools.
My life goal is create a limited run of 7-8 shot .357mag revolvers, with a camming action like the Nagant, with an accompanying suppressor. I don't know who to talk to, but i think about this all the time. for at least 7 years now.
I feel like most gunsmiths will think this is silly, and I don't know how to express what I need to a machinist or shop. I'm willing to dump money into development of this, i just do not know where to start. Just get a drill press, metal files, and some steel?
Visualize it well. Make it out of wood or plastic. Then replicate with steel or (because it’s a limited run) something more unique. Insane people use power drills and various jigs to mill steel and aluminum. Professionals use drill presses and lathes. Brainy DIYers use electrolytic baths of liquid and copper wire to cnc in their bath tub. If you want to skip some work at the expense of creative freedom then find a pre existing baseline that you think looks sick (maybe a nagant) copy some aspects of its design after locating some blueprints. Look up the internal psi created by a span of different examples of ammo types of the caliber you want. Then compare that to a few listed max recommended psi on some similar revolvers to get an idea of material thickness and type of material required. Look at some diagrams, 3D models, parts kits, 3D and IRL disassembly videos on some revolvers to fully realize the different parts required to make one function. (Though they appear to be just a handful of moving parts most are just a little more complex than that) then if your poor get mobile version of autocad, if your poor and moronic you would use blender, if your poor and you simply can’t afford a single pack of cigarettes then there’s lots of free 3D modeling software. All of this part is just to help you fully realize what you want and how it functions. Then create it. Any drill bit that spins is good enough. A jig is a piece of wood or plastic that has numbered holes in the sides so that you know if you drill them all in order you’ll have what you want out of the main piece of metal (they also help you be just a little more stable than a man with a drill in his hand). Make it! Skip steps by stealing parts from other guns. Spring steel is different than regular steel. The atf doesn’t care as long as you don’t share. Test it safely please. To add rifling you have to force a special piece of metal through your previously drilled barrel.
Visualize it well. Make it out of wood or plastic. Then replicate with steel or (because it’s a limited run) something more unique. Insane people use power drills and various jigs to mill steel and aluminum. Professionals use drill presses and lathes. Brainy DIYers use electrolytic baths of liquid and copper wire to cnc in their bath tub. If you want to skip some work at the expense of creative freedom then find a pre existing baseline that you think looks sick (maybe a nagant) copy some aspects of its design after locating some blueprints. Look up the internal psi created by a span of different examples of ammo types of the caliber you want. Then compare that to a few listed max recommended psi on some similar revolvers to get an idea of material thickness and type of material required. Look at some diagrams, 3D models, parts kits, 3D and IRL disassembly videos on some revolvers to fully realize the different parts required to make one function. (Though they appear to be just a handful of moving parts most are just a little more complex than that) then if your poor get mobile version of autocad, if your poor and moronic you would use blender, if your poor and you simply can’t afford a single pack of cigarettes then there’s lots of free 3D modeling software. All of this part is just to help you fully realize what you want and how it functions. Then create it. Any drill bit that spins is good enough. A jig is a piece of wood or plastic that has numbered holes in the sides so that you know if you drill them all in order you’ll have what you want out of the main piece of metal (they also help you be just a little more stable than a man with a drill in his hand). Make it! Skip steps by stealing parts from other guns. Spring steel is different than regular steel. The atf doesn’t care as long as you don’t share. Test it safely please. To add rifling you have to force a special piece of metal through your previously drilled barrel.
Forgive me, I opted to delete a lot of cohesion in what I was saying to get under that 2000 character limit. Ideally you would use a pc and autocad to 3D model it or make a diagram with measurements, 3D print it, drill press to cut the metal to shape of revolver frame and cylinder, lathe to drill out the barrel, you can use types of band saws to get the basic shape of the casted metal but I wouldn’t. I would probably just try and cast myself with a graphite crucible(and lots of prayer(they crack for no reason)) and a mold made out of the 3D printed plastic. Once you have what looks like a gun then you still need to shove that reamer through the barrel (like I already said) and coat is some how. There’s anodizing, bluing, cerakoting, pluming, browning, wrapping and like 50 other ways to coat a gun. Some will require baths of solution, some will require fume hoods, some will require rubbing some shit on it, some will require you to bake it in a standard oven (that you will never use again). Then to test your weapon that you’ve spent 4 dollars making, 7 years of dreaming, and a month of labor working on you’re going to want to give your life to generating a mass shooting. Imagine the PR for your homemade weapon.
Visualize it well. Make it out of wood or plastic. Then replicate with steel or (because it’s a limited run) something more unique. Insane people use power drills and various jigs to mill steel and aluminum. Professionals use drill presses and lathes. Brainy DIYers use electrolytic baths of liquid and copper wire to cnc in their bath tub. If you want to skip some work at the expense of creative freedom then find a pre existing baseline that you think looks sick (maybe a nagant) copy some aspects of its design after locating some blueprints. Look up the internal psi created by a span of different examples of ammo types of the caliber you want. Then compare that to a few listed max recommended psi on some similar revolvers to get an idea of material thickness and type of material required. Look at some diagrams, 3D models, parts kits, 3D and IRL disassembly videos on some revolvers to fully realize the different parts required to make one function. (Though they appear to be just a handful of moving parts most are just a little more complex than that) then if your poor get mobile version of autocad, if your poor and moronic you would use blender, if your poor and you simply can’t afford a single pack of cigarettes then there’s lots of free 3D modeling software. All of this part is just to help you fully realize what you want and how it functions. Then create it. Any drill bit that spins is good enough. A jig is a piece of wood or plastic that has numbered holes in the sides so that you know if you drill them all in order you’ll have what you want out of the main piece of metal (they also help you be just a little more stable than a man with a drill in his hand). Make it! Skip steps by stealing parts from other guns. Spring steel is different than regular steel. The atf doesn’t care as long as you don’t share. Test it safely please. To add rifling you have to force a special piece of metal through your previously drilled barrel.
[...]
Forgive me, I opted to delete a lot of cohesion in what I was saying to get under that 2000 character limit. Ideally you would use a pc and autocad to 3D model it or make a diagram with measurements, 3D print it, drill press to cut the metal to shape of revolver frame and cylinder, lathe to drill out the barrel, you can use types of band saws to get the basic shape of the casted metal but I wouldn’t. I would probably just try and cast myself with a graphite crucible(and lots of prayer(they crack for no reason)) and a mold made out of the 3D printed plastic. Once you have what looks like a gun then you still need to shove that reamer through the barrel (like I already said) and coat is some how. There’s anodizing, bluing, cerakoting, pluming, browning, wrapping and like 50 other ways to coat a gun. Some will require baths of solution, some will require fume hoods, some will require rubbing some shit on it, some will require you to bake it in a standard oven (that you will never use again). Then to test your weapon that you’ve spent 4 dollars making, 7 years of dreaming, and a month of labor working on you’re going to want to give your life to generating a mass shooting. Imagine the PR for your homemade weapon.
I basically said the same thing twice so that you have the option of the Brazilian route and the professional route. I prefer a mix of the two.
I want to design and sell a kit(s) for 1892 Winchesters(repros anyway) so that they can feed longer cartridges with ideally minimal gunsmithing(fitting).
The kit would include left and right cartridge guides, an ejector, and a carrier. The carrier and ejector determine how long of a cartridge will fit into the action from the magazine tube in the first place. If the carrier stop is too far forward and the ejector too proud of the bolt face, then the nose of a long bullet will hit the reciever between chamber and mag tube when the carrier is supposed to raise. That's a non-start.
Once that's sorted, you need a carrier that is aligned with the bottom of the chamber and perhaps modified so it raises at a shallower angle. This will prevent the bullet nose from striking the top of the chamber.
Then the cartridge guides will need to be made so they raise the rear of the cartridge earlier so the long bullet enters the chamber as square as possible, basically the forward portion of the rim slot is moved further back.
Do you think 3D printed versions of these parts would hold up to test cycling?
My dream gunsmithing project is to make a sliding breech that will screw on to a M2HB barrel, that I can build into a 1/10th scale AT gun. Something that I can sit behind and run though the motions of loading and laying the gun. One day....
Looking to start work on building a 1911. I've inherited a bunch of old Colt slides, but the frame I got was pretty bargain-bin and seems oversized for any actual fitment. Should I try my hand at hand-fitting?
Pretty much any gun-building forum will have dozens of threads of 75-year-old autists building out six different 1911s, documenting every single file stroke with pictures, and explaining everything that went wrong and how they fixed it.
A clip fed, either stripper or en-bloc, that loads from the bottom so you can use whatever the frick optics you want. Full power cartridge, semi-auto.
I'm really surprised this isn't already a thing for ban states or something, given that lever action ARs now exist.
Right now I'm mulling over using a hinged floor plate. If the BAR Mk3 used 10 round en-blocs it'd be exactly what I want.
You have no idea how disappointed I am with myself that I forgot it already exists.
https://i.imgur.com/mqCXr5u.jpg
Have you considered curved stripper clips? Might be easier
I am now, though the ability to use things already available, like the NATO .308 clips or the Garand clips, would be ideal. If I ever want to market this thing, low chance that'd be, I don't want it locked down with proprietary bullshit. I just want to make a convenient range toy, really.
Super big bonus if I can use a commercially available receiver and barrel, but I'm probably going to have to do some fab for this b***h anyway, and a hand mill has been on my wishlist for some time. I will most definitely not try to make my own barrels.
Can you make a pinned or welded insert for an AR10 style gun that fits Garand 308 enblocs? That seems pretty simple
10 months ago
Anonymous
I'd probably have to knock off the entire front of the magwell to accommodate the long follower/arm assembly, though I could then use the front takedown pin holes to secure it and let it hinge.
>you got any gunsmithing projects, /k/?
Not right now, but you can have this one if you want:
A guide by Anon (pic related):
If anyone wants to have a handgun by this time next week for under $200 without a background check, then go exchange cash for a prepaid Visa card from a gas station and buy these three things:
Rifled 12 gauge to .22lr adapter
(if you get a rifled adapter then the handgun you are about to make is actually a legal handgun under federal law because all handguns in the US are required to have rifled barrels per the GCA of 1968)
Orion flare gun (like in pic):
https://www.amazon.com/Orion-Safety-Alerter-Coastal-Signalling/dp/B07HNR7K31
A box of CCI .22LR ammo:
https://www.opticsplanet.com/cci-ammunition-mini-mag-22-long-rifle-40gr-jsp-rimfire-ammo-100-rounds.html
TIPS:
1. If any website asks you if u are over 18 or 21 be sure to say yes
2. Always do guest checkout when possible and screenshot ur order number just in case.
3. The adapter wont fit into the flare gun by default so simply file out the rim inside the barrel till it fits (or grind down the adapter)
4. If the 22lr round wont fire then rotate the adapter in the barrel until the firing pin hits the rim properly.
5. The adapter will try to jump back out of the gun under recoil. Wrap it with a bit of tape and press it in the barrel to prevent this
Have fun, and remember as long as your flare gun has a rifled barrel and you arent a felon this thing is actually a legal handgun under federal law and in *most* states as well.
No, but your fingers do. The adapter I linked to has a cut in the face for extraction via fingernail. If all else fails then you can always use a nail as a ramrod.
If you duct tape a pen tube with a magnet in it under the barrel you can even store the ramrod on the gun.
Youtube used to have a lot of vids on these Orion flare guns mods but idk if they still do now.
>5. The adapter will try to jump back out of the gun under recoil. Wrap it with a bit of tape and press it in the barrel to prevent this
I have heard from a guy in minecraft that you can instead
5 : Run a couple pins horizontally through the adapter about an eighth of an inch above and below the barrel liner, AND forward of the chamber, to hold the insert into the flare gun
6: weld the nose and butt of the insert in place with acetone or epoxy
7: if you're feeling fancy, it is possible to add a metal retaining strap on top of the barrel.This requires modifying the frame and hammer slightly to add another pin. It theoretically increases the chance of the whole thing grenading, but a) it will blow out the top if it goes and b) you were gonna use tape anyway.
Metal inserts like
https://i.imgur.com/i4PlL05.png
No, but your fingers do. The adapter I linked to has a cut in the face for extraction via fingernail. If all else fails then you can always use a nail as a ramrod.
If you duct tape a pen tube with a magnet in it under the barrel you can even store the ramrod on the gun.
Youtube used to have a lot of vids on these Orion flare guns mods but idk if they still do now.
Anyone remember this archive that got posted here a lot back in 2019? Well, there's actually some interesting stuff in there even though all of the CAD files are pre FGC-9.
>Anyone remember this archive that got posted here a lot back in 2019?
Yeah. This pdf was making the rounds back then as well. It's basically just a compilation of /k/ infographics but modeled after a book from fallout or something. The water purification stuff is what I found most interesting in it.
Saw some Ukrainians absolutely DRINK Russian blood with 3D printed guns. They kinda freak me out seeing them stateside but MAN I LOVE SEEING DEAD RUSSIANS!
I want to slap a detachable magazine on my Mauser. However, the Mauser is a Swedish M94 carbine in .308, which means it's short action. All Mauser conversions I can get are long action for the K98, and the only one I've found that sells short action bottom metals is PTG, but to ship to Europe (where I am) I need a fricking ITAR license.
Definitely not impossible, just aids. You might be able to get the item either legally or illegally, or you might be able to make an equivalent yourself if you tried hard enough.
All I've done is put some ar-15s together which is nothing. I've been wanting to get into repairing broken firearms, but I have no clue where to start looking. I also need a good workbench that I can place in my Chinese cube that won't take up too much space.
Look for gunsmith specials or beat to shit guns.
You need hand files, a dremel, punches, and a brass tipped hammer. I'd advise some knipex pliers, but that's just me.
If you really want to get into tearing them down, and refinishing them I recommend:
A 20 ton hydraulic press, multiples grits of sandpaper, a small torch, wood glue, some c clamps or a vise with leather padded jaws.
If you want to make firearms or make new parts for them you really need:
A bench grinder/sander, a chemical setup for finishes, a lathe for making cylindrical parts, a milling machine for making everything else. I'd also recommend a wood router for making rough gun stocks, but that can be done with a hacksaw
Wood glue and clamps. Apply wood glue, Pad the clamps with towels so you don't marr the stock, and then wait until the glue sets (maybe a day or more) then put the screw back in with a hand screwdriver and not an impact driver.
I've found that clamping around a screw or a hole never works because the clamping force distorts the hole. depending on how deep the crack is you could either try glueing it back together with the screw in place and covered with wax so it doesn't get stuck, or you could just cut the entire cracked piece out of inlet a patch block.
Since /msg/ is dead right now what would be the best way to clean my k31 stock without removing the finish? From my research I believe the swiss used some kind of shellac on this beech stock. Thanks in advance.
Thanks for this I did read some people saying to use dish soap and warm water while others say not to but thanks for the info.
I've found that clamping around a screw or a hole never works because the clamping force distorts the hole. depending on how deep the crack is you could either try glueing it back together with the screw in place and covered with wax so it doesn't get stuck, or you could just cut the entire cracked piece out of inlet a patch block.
Id say the crack is about maybe 4-6mm deep. So just put some glue in the crack and use the screw to try and fill the crack?
Look like shit but I have never gotten long rivets to look good. And I've built about 10 aks. The real measure of quality is whether or not they hold, which I'm sure yours will.
How would you go about taking the sight wings on an M16A2 front sight base and making them straight vertical? Is there even a way to really do that or is this autistic dream of mine fricked?
make a square spacer that's the width you want between them. heat the sight ears until they're cherry red. put the space between them and pound them flat.
how did you set those rivets?
is there a way of doing it quietly?
an arbor press maybe?
not that guy but there's a bunch of fixtures you can buy to do it on a hydraulic press
>heat the sight ears until they're cherry red
What are FSB's like that coated with? They're not blued, right? Either way you cut it how do I go about getting it back to black once I've straightened them out to my liking?
You often hear about people using 5.5mm air rifle barrels as liner for homemade 22lr guns. But isn't that a recipe for disaster? A 22lr projectile is 5.72mm in diameter, or is the difference negligible?
It's fine, especially since .22lr operates at comparatively low pressures.
It's normal to use a barrel with a diameter at the lands that's about 0.2mm smaller than the bullet diameter, and a diameter at the deepest part of the groves being roughly equal to the bullet diameter.
So using a chunk of air rifle barrel for .22lr works. It's just that the accuracy will be complete shit since the twist rate of the rifling is all wrong.
Consider that high end PCP guns run at upwards of 4,500 PSI or so. Meanwhile, .22lr has a peak chamber pressure of 24,000 PSI. Do you really want to use a barrel designed for use at less than 1/5 the pressure?
>blah blah blah
Your words can't do much to trump reality anon, people make .22's with weak sounding liners or barrel stand ins all the time and everything goes fine.
Im too stupid to pirate solidworks so i got the free version of solid edge. Am i going to frick myself up trying to learn this? It seems way way less popular.
I had a pirated copy but it stopped working and i cant be asked to unfrick it.
Solid edge isnt really free, its a profesional program like solidworks, they just offer a free student edition.
1.) I've got a bolt action shotgun the same as this one (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TGNwpEl79FA) and am working on making it into a bulpup. This is exclusively for the meme of having the the wackiest gun at the range. The whole gun is held to the stock with one big screw, so easy to attach the stock; all I need to do is make a trigger linking mechanism (any help would be great.)
2.) I am working on developing a gun that uses a nitrogen piston (like they have in modern single shot air rifles) instead of a spring. I've got a very complex semantic partly/mostly worked out that is way to difficult for me to make, it involves rollers and an angle surface pushing against said nitrogen piston to minimize the space of the bolt and spring. Shit will likely never work but it is fun and leads me into learning more about engineering. I might just try a more conventional gun with a nitrogen piston in it to see how that goes first.
I've had the idea of a 20 gauge, semi-auto shotgun with a double stack magazine. In theory if you stacked at a 45 degree angle you'd be able to get around 8-10 rounds in a single mag that's the height of a 30 rnd 5.56 and the width of one of those quad stack mags desert tech makes if my math isn't completely moronic,
I think if someone could pull this off I could see some practical application to this beyond being fun to shoot at the range.
The idea is that you surround the barrel with like 5 of those sheet metal bits, and use the inner steel pipe as an operating rod to unlock them, allowing the barrel to travel forward
How hard is it to make a gas system from scratch? I've got dreams of making a 1895 potato-digger-style gas piston system, and am wondering whether I should bother with that or just hand-make a traditional AR-style gas system
kek, that's exactly what we are talking about. Your issue (assuming you don't have milling equipment) is that basically the geometries and/or tolerances of rotating/tilting/roller delayed blowback systems are really too complex. I did see a guy trying to hand fabricate an AR-15 (iirc) bolt system using hand tools. Looked like it was an absolute b***h.
>I did see a guy trying to hand fabricate an AR-15 (iirc) bolt system using hand tools. Looked like it was an absolute b***h.
That sounds fricking cool, got a link?
Are there parts on guns that you modify frequently to improve function?
Do you think there would be a market for (nearly) drop ib replacement parts with those modifications already done?
Gun/car parts is such a saturated market that it's not worth getting into. Take it from a owner of a machine shop.
Best thing you could possibly get into making that would print money is niche items or machines that break down like crazy, but are essential for everyday use.
Take an excavator for example, no one but the oem makes the eye for the shafts that have to be cut off and re installed every fricking time. So just make the eyes and then bevel the bottom where it goes onto the shaft. Boom, easy 2-3k per head if you have a cnc mill and the knowledge to cad and cam.
The parts kit I'm thinking of designing is very niche, only one particular gun and one particular audience for it.
I'm not out to make mondo-bucks or any really, it's a passion project. I'll probably start by 3d printing prototypes designed in CAD until I get the desired results across several MFGs.
I've been kicking around the idea of making a gas-tube charging handle for my bullpupped Draco. There was a company that made these a few years ago but they're defunct now
That would be very cool, and I bet it's not that difficult of a thing to make. It would be even cooler if you ground off the bolt handle and used the additional charging handle exclusively, but that would mean you could never assist the bolt in going forward which might be a problem.
Good enough for deer (honestly much more than you really need) I limit myself hunting to
roughly 250-300m depending on conditions. I bedded to remove the gap at the recoil lug and free float the barrel.
It's not hard to do its similar to painting prep is 99 percent of the work.
I figured you want to action screws in to squeeze out any excess but just don't bed them in stuck hahahaha. Liberal release agent on the screws and install it upside down so you don't get bedding compound into the pillar holes.
the last time I did it I made these screws that would pull the action down against the pillars and then did the bedding and the pillars at the same time using a clamp to pull everything into the stock, but then that slightly messed up the alignment with the bottom metal inletting.
I've got a diagram I am roughly following for a side magazine model with a normal magazine housing. I found another pdf for a homemade pistol using a sten magazine that has a different kind of housing. Pic related.
The side magazine pdf has the magazine being locked on on the side tabs. The other pdf has the magazine being locked in by the rear hole. Can I use either design?
I would prefer the rear hole design due to simplicity. I'm cucking my bolt and want to reduce the hassle.
Yes, I am currently making a unholy abomination that was a 4,5mm pellet gun into a .22 break action pump.
>break action pump
What the frick did I write? It's a break action.
You went full keltec there for a second anon…. Never go full keltec..
Gun making while on 3 hours of sleep is really fun, anon, everyone should try it the same amount of fingers they are willing to lose.
Understandable since OP's pic is an early CP33 prototype.
Under over break action pump where the under tube is the magazine
>break action pump
DESIGN IT!
Now that I think about it, a break open and pump combo would be nice, the way it's set now you have to break the barrel, get the shell off, use the barrel to make reset the spring on the action, put another bullet in, close it only then can you shoot, brb, going to make the dremmel sing.
Pump action shotgun with a break action 22wmr barrel over under style for when you turkey hunt but tend to miss on that first shot…
I also have some slam fire 12 gauge laying around the house, here is a sketch of the design in case anyone wants to copy it.
a little complex for my taste anon
Why not start with a .22 pellet gun?
Break action pump is kinda a thing
That's how Europeanpeople own a gun without getting caught. Just make the barrel accept the 22lr and attach an off centre Firing pin the spring instead of buffer.
Looking around for a second gun to refinish to make working on the revolver worth it. Is parkerizing a knife worth it?
Which revolver?
SW19 I rescued 0% finish and pitting all over.
ive converted an AR 15 into a belt fed full auto machine gun. Also have some home made claymores. Tested the claymores and it still needs a little work, some of the bearings are exploding upwards.
Consider a bipod and optic, as well as box or case to carry a long belt. That's a great guerrilla squad weapon for automatic riflemen, in case you are living under a despotic regime anon.
>Tested the claymores and it still needs a little work, some of the bearings are exploding upwards.
have you tried using iv bags with water to better direct the explosion
Please make a boomba.
Question to burgers, do you guys have to register any guns you build?
It depends on the state your in. In theory the federal law doesn’t have anything that requires you from registering a gun you have made from scratch if you are capable of doing so… IF it is for your own personal use and you are not selling it… if you sell it then you run into requirements to have a serial number and all that…. Individual states have their own rules…. And if you aren’t capable of machining the components from scratch and instead purchase premade components to your taste and assemble them then the lower will usually have a serial number and is considered “the firearm”….
Also the way the legal system works keep in mind if your shooting it and it breaks and god forbid flying shrapnel hits anyone around you then you will most likely be found liable for the medical cost of their critical life altering injuries and ptsd resulting from the operation of your unsafe untested homemade firearm….
The answer is "it depends".
There's no such thing as a central, national gun registry. That's actually illegal. Licensed firearm dealers are required to keep records of sale for 20 years. Dealers going out of business are required to send their records to ATF where those records are converted to digital records. ATF can and does do "inspections" of dealers where records are shipped off to be converted to digital records that will be held by ATF forever, which is basically the same thing as a database. It's an end run around the spirit, intent and letter of the law.
On a state level, it varies.
Then there are "NFA items", guns and accessories regulated by the National Firearms Act of 1934. Those items generally cannot be lawfully "transferred" (permanent ownership) without undergoing a stupid process of asking permission and paying an onerous tax on a constitutional right. Unless it's an inheritance, then you still have to do the "mother may I" but the tax is omitted.
To be fair every once in a while those records are helpful…. You can generally track the heritage and history of old colt revolvers off the serial number and find where it started out it’s life..
Until you get to
>this section is missing because lol warehouse fire
Infuriating for some of my heirlooms.
I had the same exact outcome trying to find my grandfather's service records. Very frustrating.
I love how Goliath always gets the benefit of the doubt, while David is always presumed guilty when it comes to guns in this country.
Not really aiming this comment at you, but the fact that the deck is stacked against exercising a constitutional right.
A right administered by unelected bureaucrats who defy the law.
Honestly I’m not sure the whole “they have a database of gun owners” is as big an issue as it once was…. I’m pretty sure unless your really careful with cookies that your computer is probably telling anyone who knows how to look that you’ve looked at “x” gun related products, for “x” style of gun…. I expect it probably also gives away whatever ammo you search for…. Privacy with todays technology just isn’t what it used to be..
I'm not saying you're wrong. Privacy is dead. We've all signed away our souls by clicking through EULAs. There's no need for the government to lean on anyone to find out what they "need" to know. Everything you do is packaged and marketed as a commodity. Freely bought and sold. "Requested" and received at no charge by the government, on demand.
What I'm trying to say is we fricked up.
>There will be no curiosity, no enjoyment of the process of life. All competing pleasures will be destroyed. But always— do not forget this, Winston— always there will be the intoxication of power, constantly increasing and constantly growing subtler. Always, at every moment, there will be the thrill of victory, the sensation of trampling on an enemy who is helpless.
>If you want a picture of the future, imagine a boot stamping on a human face— forever.
I don't know if this is what you meant but I hate how people have this dumb idea of "fairness" when it comes to self defense shootings. if you shoot someone who was trying to punch you or even hit you with a baseball bat it will probably end up in court with some rat prosecutor questioning whether you were really in danger, but if the weapons were reversed and you brained some guy who drew a gun you wouldn't even get arrested and the papers would write articles praising you.
I forgot to mention, there is an actual registry of NFA items. It's the NFRTR (National Firearms Registration and Transfer Record)
Thanks, anons, unfortunetly my country doesn't allow me the same freedom, but fortunetly I live in the boonies so laws are more sugestions
>There's no such thing as a central, national gun registry
there is though, one time I was at my ffl waiting for a transfer, He runs the FFL out of his house so he can make some cash on the side for the lulz and so he can have his SOT and frick around with building MGs and suppressors. He's cool dude and after I was done with the form he called to run the check and had them on speaker phone with me in the room. On the phone they just confirm what's on the paper. The dude on the phone literally knew everything about me and also knew the last purchase I made and even the gun. He also corrected my ffl guy as he misread what I wrote down on the paper for my place of birth and they had that info too. It was a bit freaky that the guy on the other side of the phone knew so much about me and this is stuff that is not just on a DL or in public records. So Although it's "illegal" to have that info, It would not surprise me if they had every single FFL transfer I ever made on file and with everything being digital these days it's easier to store, preserve, and search for this info.
It's a case of "in name only", like how the NSA intercepts and stores your communications without warrant. As an American citizen, that's illegal. But when they go before Congress they lie and unequivocally say they do not spy on Americans, because until they analyze the data, you haven't been spied on.
Then you run into the phenomenon of "parallel construction", where spies have spied on Americans but can't legally use the information, so they feed it to another agency who concocts an alibi for it, "washing" it so to speak so it will stand up in court.
Where everyone has seen CSI and knows the cops never lie, everyone gets a fair trial, the system isn't rigged to generate conviction and the good guy always wins.
>An anonymous source says
etc.
The disparity in accountability is staggering.
Moral of the story, buy fun things in Walmart parking lots in private transfers where they don’t even ask to see a DL.
That is illegal in my state
Well as long as you don't live in ct you can still make your own firearms pretty easily. Even in ca and ny there are workarounds to keep your firearm legal.
What does that have to do with private party transfers being illegal without having a FFL perform a background check in Oregon?
It's a way to get a firearm without being put on the atf's illegal registry, as an alternative to private party transfers.
Why would I be worried about that? I'm not paranoid and mentally ill.
If you're not paranoid then you're mentally ill
You Trump people really are nuts. No one is out to get you.
Who?
(You)
kys unironically
the system is designed to rape you
Shit like this is why compliance is not an option.
They don't play fair, so I choose not to play.
A drill press is a fine purchase in these asinine times.
They ever want to come knocking with that registry as justification, I'm going to remind them of Mr. Weaver. Frick the ATF, frick the Feds, frick Black folk, frick israelites, and frick the jannies.
>So Although it's "illegal" to have that info, It would not surprise me if they had every single FFL transfer I ever made on file and with everything being digital these days it's easier to store, preserve, and search for this info.
I can assure you Anon that is exactly what is happening. And you know It's true because the jannies here get absolutely butt blasted and move the thread to /misc/ or 404 it everytime I post this:
https://thenewamerican.com/atf-reveals-it-has-a-national-gun-registry-already-in-place/
At this point everyone needs to have at least one private sale or polymer 80 gun buried somewhere "just in case".
>inb4 "when its time to bury a gun its actually time to use it!"
Why not both, agent?
Speaking of which,
https://archive.org/details/WeaponsCaching
Yeah, I got the idea to build a slamfire pipe shotgun with a nice handmade wood stock and barrel grip. Like the American/Filipino guerrilla shotguns from WWII, in the war against Imperial Japan.
Now I found an American from the past that had the same idea, but never took it too far really. He was a veteran from long ago and maybe just a fan of guns and gunsmithing.
Some of them look really nice honestly. I want to make my own and put a lot of love and care into it, a prototype. If I can get a good design and make it an accurate 12 gauge weapon, then I can make many of them as a woodcrafting good.
Think you could make a slam fire shotgun with a magazine and extractor?
Alright, I gave it a go,
Four winds style slam action shotgun with a magazine and extractor.
There’s a cutout at the top of the rear pipe to allow the magazine to sit flush within the back pipe, allowing the barrel pipe to slide through it,
as you shove the barrel pipe back it should strip the round from the magazine and slam it again the fixed firing pin.
A small cutout in the front of the barrel should let the extractor hook the rim of the shell and drag it out as you clear the barrel rod from the barrel back.
Maybe you would need to weld a rod or two onto the outside joining both barrels together so that the barrel pipe’s extractor notch will always hit the extractor
Nice
CETME C.
Friend is printing a jig.
Need to buy a TIG welder, anybody have a recommendation that doesn't break the bank but also isn't dogshit?
Friend can also print receiver.
I know, but I just want to build a steel gun.
Leaning toward a "YESWELDER" tig from Amazon.
Welder, gas regulator, tungsten electrodes, and a variety pack of stubby gas lenses adds up to $230.
sounds like chinkshit to me. I suck at welding but if I had to buy a machine I would get a reputable brand like miller or lincoln
I'm probably only going to use it for this one project. So yes, chinesium. Watching people use it to weld, it seems like it's able to do what I want, at a price point I can justify for a one time use item.
>if I had to buy a machine I would get a reputable brand like miller or lincoln
Those are not cheap, or even affordable. Anon would probably be better off rolling the dice with chinkshit and resorting to a Miller if it doesn't do what he wants. It's not like he needs long duty cycles or crazy high amperages. Worst case he's out $230
when it comes to TIG welding with chinkshit I imagine the worst case involves a liveleak logo, not just some lost money.
im also working on a cetme.
doing the little paddle mag release right now cus i need to go to a friends place for try #3 on pressing the barrel lol
im planning on FCAW in my apartment (GASLESS), hopefully thatll work well enough. my welding experience is a lil stick welding welding, which, is probably harder than fcaw lmao so im not that worried. maybe not worried enough.
i () also got a pps43 kit in process but its early early in the build, just getting all the receiver chunks cleaned up nice. will probably practice welding with it b4 welding the cetme, just bcus its such a cheap kit.
doesn't flux core already cause cancer? rip to your lungs trying to do it in your unventilated apartment.
ill turn the fan on
the way i see it, a few direct exposures to carcinogens isnt that bad, since its not a regular thing
sometimes ill be walking and someones dirty fricking exhaust gives me a blast of about 1000 carcinogens but its not a big deal, just modern life.
I'm trying to figure out how to make a pump action 5.7mm carbine that is compatible with P90 mags because my buddy came up with it when we were arguing over what the most moronic gun one could make and try to sell to people could possibly be. I mostly want to see if it's possible to actually make something like this. Might have to source some KelTec-brand cocaine.
It would be neat to see something that ejected out the side and used a p90 mag horizontally on the other side…
It would look absolutely moronic. Love it.
Bonus points if you sell it with clips to hold 2 p90 mags back to back so you can rotate, flip, then lock the other into place so you can rock and roll through 100 rounds and 50-80 dollars..
You’re literally describing the Cordite from Black Ops 4. I’d kill to see a working replica of that thing
I am currently doing the technical draft drawings for a 9mm conversion of a 5.56 gun. I have all I need to machine it and a conversion kit doesnt exist as of now.
Nothing recent, but years ago, teenage me and equally teenage stupid friend decided to make a musket out of plumbing pipe, scrap wood a lighter, and using his dads shotgun shells which we tore apart to use the gunpowder, we fired candles out of it.
Thinking back on those days it's a fricking wonder either of us survived, we did a lot of horribly stupid things.
My rifles sight has quite coarse adjustments and so I designed new screws from messuring out the old ones.
why the weird angled undercut?
It is a clearance/centering for another piece.
The shoulder to the fine thread is a standard clearance but it then angles up to the 6mm diameter.
Got a cut up sks being delivered today or tomorrow that I'm going to try to undestroy
Last night i came up with a gun design as i was falling asleep, sadly i won't be able to make it for however many years it takes me tonget educated enough to get a license to make one.
Needs a new recoil spring.
Its not current as I made it years and years ago, but I recently repainted it cuz the last coat of spray paint was almost completely worn off from heavy use.
You ever thought of trying one of those Owen/Austen WW2 Spray camo jobs?
Sir, I have not put any thought into any part of this abomination whatsoever.
So it's just a sten with a shitty grip?
Trick question. All STENs have shitty grips.
Neat.
Taurus Spectrum started acting up again with FTE this time. Took it apart and polished the feed ramp, the ejector, and the breech face. I think brass with excessive head stamps caused enough friction to frick things up. Honestly this gun is more work than it is worth. You can only shoot a couple magazines before the barrel heats up enough to open groups up astronomically.
Very cool. Did you make it all from scratch or did you do parts shopping?
Dude, it's a spectrum. It's a tiny, cheap .380 made for budget concealed carry. It's not meant to shoot multiple magazines in quick succession, much less to do that accurately.
For FTE, check your extractor (make sure it still has a hook) and polish your chamber if you want something to actually do. The rear of the case has no friction bearing on it, only the sides of the case as its being extracted. Usually problems like that are due to ammo and poor grip. Very first thing I tell people are to try other brands of ammo, and are doubly sure you always have a firm grip on the gun. Those tiny pocket pistols are too small to get a good hold of them. All those types of tiny 380s are relatively unreliable in the first place, and Taurus in general gets a lot of lemons.
How else am I going to train with it? I like to shoot my guns.
FTF, not FTE. My bad. I can see exactly where the rim gets stuck. It then wedges the bullet between the breech face and the lower part of the feed ramp at such an angle it won't chamber. I polished all areas where it touches. When I first bought it, all ammo was 14% light primer strikes. Sent it in to Taurus and they fixed that problem. I like to buy in bulk, so I bought Norma 380. Turned out my gun will still do light primer strikes with norma ammo. Bought some Speer lawman since they use the same primer as CCI blazer, which has proven to work. After a few hundred rounds, I started experiencing these FTF. My grip is as solid as it can be on it.
I made the receiver tube, grip, and stock from scratch, the barrel and bolt came from Indianapolis ordinance, and the fcg and fcg housing was from a WW2 parts kit.
Can you show me how the barrel is retained? I can read diagrams, but I can't understand them.
Is it similar to an AR? With the notch in the receiver allowing the extension to seat, topped with a barrel nut screwing it down.
That highly depends on what STEN or MP3008 model you plan to copy. In this case its based on the mkIII which is nothing fancy. The barrel is just kinda sandwiched in between two bushings which are welded or riveted in place. Tolerances are tight enough it can't rattle around. It can spin freely sorta like an axel though. Surprisingly, this hasn't really seemed to impact accuracy. It gets 4 inch groups at 100 yards. Considering I built it in my garage with hand tools and random parts I ordered offline I think 4 MOA is acceptable.
I'm planning on building mine out of black iron piping and scrap metal. Thinking of just buying the bolt.
You need better matierials than that. STENs are simple, but they aren't THAT simple. /k/ likes to make it sound like you can just trip into a pile of scrap metal holding a hand file and a copy of professor parabellum's diy sten guide and then get up off the floor holding a fully finished firearm. Thats because they've never actually tried making one. They actually take a lot of work and you need to have the right stuff or you are just making some STEN shaped favela zipgun.
Tolerances matter even for garbage rods.
Forgive me for posting reddit. https://www.reddit.com/r/brandonherrara/comments/v3lo22/homemade_closed_bolt_sten_i_guess/
If it don't work, I'll buy a real tube. It'll be practice if that is the case.
Guys, how do I file a barrel square? Besides a file, what other tools would I need to ensure that it's square with minimal imperfections I don't have a lathe.
if it's a shotgun you can get it close enough by eye. if it's a rifle then you're kind of fricked unless you buy one of those piloted crowning cutters
It's a 9mm pistol, those Brownells piloted cutters absolutely ruin the lands and grooves, I've tried them before, metal shavings will get in-between the brass pilot and bore and scratch everything.
Whet stone and a bubble level?
if you can get it close enough, then a sharpening stone, plenty of water and a level should get you that final few thousandths
A fricking lathe.
What part of "I don't have a lathe" don't you get? You good for nothing dumbfrick.
I want to machine X, I dont have a machine.
I want to destil alcohol, I dont have a stil.
I want to drive on the freeway, I dont have a motorized vehicle.
Maybe get one of those two piece clamping collars from the hardware store and use that as a guard/jig. I used a Dremel grinding bit to make a little crown on mine after, just to make it look prettier when it is caked in petrified carbon. Some would make you think it is going to be a 10 MOA rifle doing this but that's because they are morons.
I'm gonna design and make a top break revolver and then make everything FOSS
cool but make sure it has the release lever on the side so I can larp as vash the stampede
Yeah, I took my Model 1892 apart because I'm tired of that b***h not feeding what I put in her.
I opened up the rear of the cartridge guides a bit, removed .04 off the carrier stop, reprofiled the ejector, and am devising a way to slightly decrease the angle of the carrier relative to the bore.
how much is the wholesale price of ar buffer tubes/castle nuts?
I see them on aliexpress for like 12 bucks
Less than $16 for a low end tube/spring/buffer/nut/plate that will still be miles ahead of a wish set.
https://www.righttobear.com/5-pack-ts-mil-spec-6-position-buffer-tube-kit/
https://www.deltateamtactical.com/employee-favorites-buffer-parts-kit-ar-15-carbine-castle-nut-al-1053-mil-spec-receiver-end-plate-mil-spec-buffer-tube.html
I put a wolff spring kit in my Uberti Cattleman 2. Now if only I could shoot it remotely consistently, I need to either learn to shoot from the hip like cowboys did(n't) or put a red dot on it.
Jokes aside, I have considered putting a low profile red dot on it for shits n gigs, maybe even paint it so it looks like its made of brass or hardcased. I am concerned that any machining to the top of the frame may weaken it though so I don't think I want to drill and tap for a pic rail. But perhaps I could rig up something to pinch onto the frame like a picatinny or weaver mount normally would. I could possibly shave down the edges there without reducing the structural integrity too much.
It's my understanding that the cylinder and barrel are your primary load bearing components while firing.
As for longevity of the weapon, yeah, removing metal from the top of the frame is probably a bad idea.
>Pinch onto the frame
Revolver claw mounts. I mean, if it works, it's not stupid.
Gotta get rounds through it… focus on making sure you grip it consistently, same finger placement, same feel…. Only real way to build the muscle memory..
That area of the gun takes minimal stress from firing. Do it, who cares.
I've got an old Sears Roebuck 16 Gauge bolt action shotgun I'm trying to restore. It's worthless, but it was my dad's first gun. I had to do some pretty aggressive rust removal from the barreled action and bolt since it was seized. Need to give it another full pass to remove the blueing and redo it. Stock has been completely taken down to bare wood and is ready for stain. I've just been trying to figure out how I want to finish it - mostly between doing a weathered oak stain with browned metal or doing a rich mahogany with a bright blueing.
It's going to be a wall hanger until I can find parts for the feed ramp and magazine. They're so hard to come by that I may have to buy a donor rifle or just have a professional gunsmith fabricate them. Not terribly urgent, but it'd by cool if I could pass it to my son when he's old enough to shoot it.
Always check ebay thats where I get a lot of my unobtanium parts. Also, look up your model and see if it has a recall on the bolt. Some of those sears bolt action shotguns had issues with the bolts. My Granddad has a 20 gauge one but it isnt one of the lots subject to a recall so thats good.
So if i was to build a caploch or flintlock rifle how would i attach the "end cap" metal piece to the barrel? Welding would ruin the tempering of the barrel i imagine.
Could i plug the end of the barrel and then use pins to hold it in place along with solder?
the breach plug? most are just threaded in anymore
That's what it's called? Don't think i could thread it myself so might have to settle for using pins and solder.
>dat pic
neat
I'm building an hk11a1 and need to finish my mg42/yugo M53 parts kit build.
look im fking jealous of your kits. spare me one?
I made this slam fire shotgun and shot homemade shells using hilti blanks
Nice.
What's the easiest way to straighten out this muzzleloader barrel rib?
is it like a shotgun barrel rib? those things are never straight when they are detached. you straighten it out as you solder it to the barrel.
It's a DIY pistol kit. The rib's what guides the ramrod into the stock. My issue is that since it's slightly bent, it pushes the barrel slightly up which means that the barrel retainer (green) sits too high and I can't push the barrel retainer wedge through when I assemble the gun.
I figure my 3 options are
>Bend the bent rib straight
>File down the brass forend cap that holds the rib to make room for the bent rib
>File down the inside of the barrel retainer so that the wedge can fit through
Out of those 3 I figure that just bending the rib straight so it fits properly in the forend cap is the safest option.
probably the best way would be to just solder the rib down, but that might frick up the blueing. if you want to try to straighten it you can put it in a vise with soft jaws right where the bend is and then tap it with a rubber mallet to try to bend it back in the other direction.
Has anyone tried a slamgire knife? Like a really short slamfire with a minor spring in it as a safety measure and just meleeing something with it?. I imagine the recoil might rocket it out of your hand but just a thought of a disposable breach tool.
how would you design a carry-handle style picatinny setup?
suppose
>you start with picatinny rail blank
>you need to fit a charging handle underneath it ala famas
>generous clearance/height for optic like fast riser
im thinking a pair of legs dovetailed with the picatinny
My brain is full of ideas but i lack ways to describe and explain them.
Sketch them out
Use meme arrows anon.
More of a design project, been sketching up a lot of crap on Autocad. Trying to design a bullpup with relatively easy shoulder transitions by having conventional ejection, albiet conventional ejection that's forward-biased as much as humanly possible. ADD kicked in and for the past few weeks I've meen mulling over gas-assisted blow forward actions.
make it eject out the bottom
Considered and ultimately decided against.
>gas-assisted blow forward actions.
You just gave me an idea to crack the problem of building a not completely fricking dangerous 5.56 semiautomatic locking mechanism.
>Gas delayed blow forward
>Fixed breach face
>Reciprocating barrel
>Piston made from steel pipe
>Receiver made from steel pipe
>5 or more Lugs that lock into the receiver made from water or Lazer cut steel sheets (maybe you can build this with a drill press?)
>AR-15 barrel
>Use the barrel nut (sic? The ring round the chamber on the barrel extension not sure what it's called, tbh) as a camming surface
Should be not completely fricking suicidal
Idea for lug design shamelessly ripped off from here
https://archive.org/details/edoc.site_pump-action-shotgun-plans-professor-parabellum
Btw, the idea here is to use a minimum of firearms parts (so, the barrel), and no milling machines or CNC machines to make a viable semiautomatic 5.56 rifle along the lines of FGC 9. Also, I have no fricking clue what I'm doing here, lol
(drawing, not to scale, obviously)
Seems interesting
>>Use the barrel nut (sic? The ring round the chamber on the barrel extension not sure what it's called, tbh) as a camming surface
the O ring?
The bit that is raised on pic rel
Does anyone with engineering/home gunmaking experience have an opinion on this idea?
I vaguely recall that the Germans concluded that gas delay only really worked well in pistol calibers.
The idea is that you have a locked breach, not actual gas delay.
Or should I say "locked barrel," with a fixed breech
Then it's not gas delayed and I'm not sure what you're trying to get across. At that point why not make it short recoil or just normal gas operation with a piston.
shit, you are right. Idk why i said gas delayed. I'ts just gas operated. I cant think of a way to home build short recoil
>I cant think of a way to home build short recoil
Well what tools do you have to work with? All depends on that.
bump
bump
Basically, I'm trying to figure out a way to do something like the FGC 9 with the only extra tool being a drill press. Perhaps a better welder. Other than that 3d printer and hand tools. Nothing costing more than a few hundred bucks
>3D printing
I ignore 3D printing because it's gay regardless of its effectiveness, but if you're trying to make a 5.56 rifle with pipes and shit you're probably looking at a difficult time. I'm sure there must be some correctly sized tube out there with the rare metallurgical qualities necessary to safely contain the pressure, but I'm equally sure you won't find it easily. What you could do is opt for using an AR-15 barrel instead, and then build around that. But even then you'd need to be very careful and thoughtful with your bolt manufacture and design, or just straight up use an AR bolt, which I assume you don't want to do. From there you'll basically just be making a gas system / other system + the receiver + the trigger group + any furniture, all of which 3D printing is more suited to, but is probably much less exciting for you.
If material properties weren't a factor you could probably do your gas assisted blow forward like you mentioned, but a short recoil system would be a lot better considering what you're working with there.
I was planning on using an AR barrel. If I use 3D printing, it would be on low-wear, relatively complex parts, and probably buttstock/ lower receiver bits.
How would you get short recoil to work? The issue is that you can't have complex geometry, essentially.
One guy came up with an interesting idea in the other thread. It may work (see here)
>How would you get short recoil to work? The issue is that you can't have complex geometry, essentially.
Well if we're talking 3D printing then, well, I'm not sure what all printers can and can't do these days. But broadly speaking I would mount your barrel to a "sled" and then have that sled run in a track on your frame, with a sort of acceleration lever mounted on the sled that after a certain short amount of distance traveled will run into a surface on the frame, and push the bolt carrier backward. The sled would run out of track soon after that and come to a stop, but the bolt carrier would probably still be moving backward with some decent speed. You could put that point 'sooner' in your cycle or later depending on if it's opening too violently or too early, or go the other way if there are issues with cycling or ejection etc.
There may or may not be magazine issues with this that a person would have to put some thought into designing around, but I put about a minute of thought into the above and it seems like something that would be doable, assuming you're already working with a professionally made AR barrel and bolt and carrier. There's probably better ideas that than both with and without 3D printing, try coming up with some.
>Well if we're talking 3D printing then, well, I'm not sure what all printers can and can't do these days.
Basically just plastic, so all of your parts with heavy wear or high pressure need to be steel. The issue is locking/unlocking without using prefab bolt parts or a mill. I think I coud design a gas operated blow forward gun using an AR15 bolt and barrel
It's not quite as absurd as I remember, but still pretty cool. He's using a cheap mill. I think he's trying to case harden/heat treat the shit at home.
https://www.reddit.com/user/Advanced-Payment-358/
>I think I coud design a gas operated blow forward gun using an AR15 bolt and barrel
To my knowledge what makes blow forward work is the friction between the bullet and the barrel, but that probably depends on the gun being unlocked at the time of firing. The only way around that is if the friction from the bullet going down the barrel is great enough to move the barrel AND the bolt forward and with enough speed to have the barrel continue moving forward after unlocking, which I don't think would actually happen.(Note when I say "bolt" here I mean the bolt head assembly rather than the entire BCG. The BCG weighs even more)
You could maybe strap a booster on your barrel that redirects the gas rearward but that might not create enough force either. The bolt and barrel on an AR are already optimized for lightness (generally, anyway) but they still weigh what they weigh. Oh, also you'd need a return spring acting against the barrel the entire time, otherwise what you have is a single shot you need to reset every shot.
And even if you're lucky and the bullet-rifling friction is high enough to drag the barrel and bolt forward enough to unlock while fighting against the return spring, you've gotta deal with ejecting the round once it's extracted from the barrel and also feeding a new round into the gun. There are ways you can do that, a great many problems can be overcome as long as you're willing to sacrifice weight or complexity etc, but it's not a cake walk.
Also just in case this thread 404's before I get to comment here again, we should have more of these. They're pretty fun even for how little I was involved.
I'm not an engineer but I don't think friction has anything to do with it. when you shoot the cartridge you have bolt thrust from the case head to the bolt face. in a blowback design the barrel is fixed and the bolt moves back. in a blow forward design it would have a fixed breech and a moving barrel.
Why would fixing the bolt being fixed in place cause the barrel to want to shoot forward if not for friction from the bullet? The friction generated from the gas would be minimal, and there aren't any other forces at work.
Bolt thrust exists from the gas pressure pushing back against the case, which pushes back against the bolt. This gas pressure also pushes forward against the rear of the bullet (It also pushes in every single direction, but since the barrel doesn't warp meaningfully it can sort of be ignored). The bolt is able to move in the exact direction the pressure is trying to push it. The same can't be said for a blow forward, so it must be bullet friction.
>Why would fixing the bolt being fixed in place
Why would the bolt being fixed in place*
if there's force backwards towards the bolt face then there's an equal force forwards on the barrel.
>if there's force backwards towards the bolt face then there's an equal force forwards on the barrel.
Not in the way you think there is, no. The case basically acts as a big wind sock for all those burning gasses, and the pressure pushes it rearward, which pushes the bolt and gets that moving. The same is not true for the barrel in any way except for the bullet. The gas pressure isn't going to 'catch' on the rifling (to a meaningful extent), and there aren't any baffles built into the inside of the barrel for the gas to act upon. The only thing it can act upon that would prove effective in any meaningful way is the very slight taper in the chamber after the case mouth but before the barrel, which isn't much at all, or the bullet itself. So the gas pushes the bullet and the bullet pushes the barrel since its pushing through the rifling.
even if you were shooting a teflon bullet out of a smoothbore barrel you would still have gas pressure inside the barrel because of inertia of the bullet. the pressure would be trying to push the breech away from the barrel, but since the breech is fixed the barrel would move in the opposite direction.
>you would still have gas pressure inside the barrel
Yes, but not in a way that results in blow forward operation. You would have gas pressure in the barrel even if there was no bullet at all, but because there are few features(practically none, but to be fair I'll say few since the rifling is there and there could possibly be the very slightest taper in the barrel even though those wouldn't amount to anything) inside the barrel that would actually have that gas pressure act upon them in a way that propels the barrel forward, it will not be propelled forward.
It's like putting a bit of wet mushy paper inside the end of a straw, and then blowing into the other end. The blowing action will push the plugged straw out of your mouth with a lot of force so you have to hold it there, but once the mushy paper shoots out of the straw, the straw no longer has nearly as much tendency to get blown out of your mouth. The key is the projectile going down the barrel, not the pressure itself which the straw is very good at not getting effected by if not for that projectile.
Much like the straw, the barrel is very good at not getting effected in a way that propels or inclines it forward.
Another example might be a sail. If the wind is coming straight on toward the sail's widest point, all of the wind that can push against the sail IS pushing against the sail, so you get the maximum pressure the wind can give which equates to the greatest momentum. If instead the wind comes at a very steep angle to the sail, then less of the wind is pushing against the sail, and you get a much lesser pressure and a much lesser momentum. An AR-15 barrel, and pretty much any barrel that I've ever heard of, will be the equivalent to a sail turned at a steep angle to the wind. There are either no or minimal features present that will be inclined forward from the gas pressure in a meaningful and USEFUL way.
blow forward works like the straw example, but has nothing to do with friction pulling the barrel along with it. if that was the case then all guns would recoil forward. the straw moves because there is back pressure coming out the end and nothing to hold it in place.
>if that was the case then all guns would recoil forward.
They do, as evidenced by frame stretch on certain classic BP revolvers. It's just that the forces generated by that are much less than the forces generated from the case pushing or slamming back against the bolt face, which eventually causes everything including the barrel and the shooters shoulder to get pushed backward. If you somehow removed the rearward push you would experience a very slight forward pull, same reason pushing a bullet down a barrel with a rod will require you to hold a barrel tightly, there's a lot of friction between the bullet and barrel.
it's not because of friction. the bullet could be made out of a frictionless material and the barrel would still blow forward because of gas pressure against the breech face.
Respectfully anon, you keep repeating that but you offer no explanation as to how it could be. How does pressure pushing REARWARD against the breech face allow for FORWARD momentum of the barrel, in any way other than by relying on the bullet and its friction and its momentum born from the forward-expanding gas and forward-pushing pressures?
Even with the forward pressure from the gasses, if the bullet was frictionless how would the barrel get enough forward momentum from just the gas alone rushing through it to do anything? The bullet is a big fat sail, it takes up almost all the room in the barrel and almost all of the gas pressure going forward runs into it, and propels it through the barrel. The barrel by itself doesn't have any such sail effect, so how could it possibly function in a blow-forward gun without the bullet acting as a sail and imparting that momentum to it?
the gas pressure inside the barrel makes the two parts want to push apart. since the breech is fixed and the barrel is not that means the barrel is pushed away from the breech. it has nothing to do with sails or catching wind. you are basically saying that rockets only work because the fuel is pushing the inside of the rocket.
>the gas pressure inside the barrel makes the two parts want to push apart.
And the only reason that is the case to an extent that actually results in cycling in a blow-forward is because of the friction of the bullet. If the bullet were frictionless where the barrel is concerned then the majority of the force normally acting upon the barrel to push it forward would be gone.
>since the breech is fixed and the barrel is not that means the barrel is pushed away from the breech.
And if the bullet were zipping through the barrel without friction and therefor giving the expanding gasses tremendously less compression and a nearly free and open pathway to escape, just how much forward momentum would be applied to the barrel as compared to a bullet that does experience friction normally?
A frictionless bullet wouldn't be the exact same as trying to fire a blow forward gun with a cartridge that didn't have a bullet at all, but it would be a hell of a lot closer to that than what happens when you fire a normal cartridge in a blow forward. You're not looking at a plugged barrel, you're looking at something much closer to an empty barrel sans bullet.
you still have the wrong impression that the barrel is being pushed forward by the bullet which is not the case. the barrel is being blown forward by the gas pressure against the breach which is why it's called blow forward. even if there was no friction between the bullet and the barrel, as long as the bullet is blocking the gas from escaping out the muzzle there will be gas pressure trying to escape from the chamber end. it's literally the same as blowback but with a different moving part.
>you still have the wrong impression that the barrel is being pushed forward by the bullet which is not the case.
So your claim is that the bullet squeezing itself through the barrel at very high speeds isn't pushing the barrel forward at all? How could that be? If you've ever tried pushing a squib through a barrel and out the muzzle you would have experienced quite a lot of difficulty in that and it would have required a great deal of force, so why wouldn't that same amount of force not be applied when the bullet is traveling down the barrel from the gas pressure? And why wouldn't that force be a major contributor to the barrel moving forward? Perhaps I'm being overly pedantic here and taking your words too much at face value?
>as long as the bullet is blocking the gas from escaping out the muzzle
But if the bullet were frictionless it would not be blocking the gas to the extent it normally does, which is my point here. If it were frictionless it would be moving much much faster down the barrel while also allowing the gasses propelling it to move faster and with less impediment. That means a great deal less pressure. So much less that the forward momentum it would impart on the barrel would be comparable though not equal to the amount of force the gasses would impart on the barrel were there no bullet to begin with - or in other words, the gasses would impart insufficient force and momentum.
The presence of the bullet and the friction it has within the barrel is vital to function and what you're describing would not work without that friction.
So, that being established, how much would you actually need? Would an unlocking the barrel with gas ported from the same place as in, say, an AR or an AK leave enough force for the barrel to move forward?
The problem is unlocking an AR bolt from an AR barrel using an AR gas port would be like 90 percent of how a normal AR functions, and at that point why not just make it a normal AR?
I guess the answer is "it's cooler this way" and you're certainly right, but the thought does come to mind.
Also the big problem here is if the bolt is locked there will be no appreciable forward motion at all, which means you'll either have to use the gas to make forward motion which I guess could maybe possibly work, or you'd have to have an unlocked bolt which is a problem for 5.56.
All this together is why I think a short recoil design made using an AR15 barrel and bolt would be easier than a blow forward.
>which means you'll either have to use the gas to make forward motion which I guess could maybe possibly work
Actually come to think of it maybe you could strap what amounts to a gas tube to the barrel, and then have it slide onto a fixed piston on the frame, and it might possibly generate enough force to unlock the gun. Though worth noting that at that point you're not reliant on the bullet at all like you would be in a normal blow-forward since by the time the gas pressures have started propelling the barrel forward enough to become unlocked from the bolt, the bullet will be down range.
That was basically the original idea I had here
As modified by an anon in a different thread
I think he's right mostly anon. Blanks have (almost) zero recoil. If you fired a frictionless bullet in a vacuum, you also would not have high recoil, because the gas would expand at essentially the same rate that they would as blanks. There would not be much rearward pressure on the case, because the gas would following the pay of least resistance (forward, just like with a blank)
blanks have little recoil because there's no projectile. recoil is different from bolt thrust.
even if the bullet had zero friction it would still block the gas because of inertia. stop fixating on friction. think about how a regular blowback works. blow forward is literally the same function but with the barrel moving instead of the breech. the relative motion is exactly the same. if you put a blow forward gun in a vise holding the barrel and pulled the trigger with a string it would turn into a blowback.
cool here is a garand I bungled my way through. there were some bubbles so I had to grind it down and do a second coat. how did you hold the action in the stock? I still don't know if it's better to do it with the action screws in place or not.
Blowback operated guns don't work with blanks though, because you need chamber pressure. Without air friction and barrel friction, you have very little chamber pressure, because the explosion is essentially in an open system
it's not because of fricking friction. if you put a bfa on a blowback gun it would work.
>it would still block the gas because of inertia.
It wouldn't block the gas for nearly as long or nearly as 'hard', is my point. I believe that difference would result in a non cycling barrel.
>stop fixating on friction
Friction is an important part of this. You surely can't say that the projectile moving down the barrel doesn't impart any movement to the barrel, and it's unreasonable to say that a frictionless bullet would produce the same results as a normal bullet. Without that friction whatever movement that is normally imparted to the barrel from the bullet wouldn't be there, and the bullet would be exiting the barrel far sooner and at a far higher speed than normal, and the gas pressure wouldn't build to the extent that it does normally. All that together means non-function(to be polite and fair I'll add a "I believe" to the end of this statement).
Sorry anon, the consensus has been reached and I've been declared objectively correct by popular vote.
The guns that have operated with forward reciprocating barrels do have mag issues. You woould need some sort of a mag cutoff at the top of mags to hold the rounds in, because they would need to be feeding straight up. You could combine it with a barrel hold open (like an AR bolt hold open), which would make your manual of arms a bit more intuitive.
>The guns that have operated with forward reciprocating barrels do have mag issues.
I was talking about short recoil in that case.
Like the other anon said, all of the good-ish ideas like glock parts and triggers and spring replacements etc etc are already done by a ton of other companies, and the competition is too stiff. You'd need something unique.
>one particular gun
Which one?
This'n
Or should I say, gas operated, delayed blow forward? I feel like the diagram sort of explains it
My only real project at the moment is an attempt to fix the play and timing of a Colt Lightning .38. We also got a beat up Dan Wesson in used that one of the guys is gonna get, I'm gonna try rust bluing it to fix up the white spots. Otherwise my days get filled with people bringing in scopes to mount or their grandpappy's .22 that has been sitting in the barn for the past 50 years.
are you working for a shop? how did you get the job? I had one for 3 years but I basically got it by accident and now I don't know how to get another.
I lucked into it too. I was sales for a few years before our smith moved on. During my time there I helped out a lot in the back doing the cleanings and simple shit like AR builds or trigger installs. I'd watch our smith as he would do barrel chops, threading, and other machine work, and he would show me how to do different things. He left to pursue better things and we were without for a while. We would still do the small shit, but only just recently did I get our lathe working again and I've started playing with that. So far I've threaded a few spare 10/22 barrels we had laying around and I cut and threaded, then pinned and welded a Mini 14.
Now, I'll totally lean on that experience whenever I need to find a new gig, but I don't plan on leaving until those fricks fire me. Once you're in that line of work, the best thing to do is to network. Most of these old timey type of professions still rely on reputation and word of mouth to get anywhere, unless you to SDI or something and get a certificate. Then you can go work for some big name brand. Mossberg will not sell you some parts if you do not have a gunsmithing certificate. I had a customer that broke the safety on his mossberg 464, and Mossberg wouldn't send me the part if I couldn't supply that. Otherwise they would require the gun get sent in. So instead, I made the part on the lathe out of some 1/4" hex bar.
I got a degree but none of the big companies will hire me
it's not a 92 it's a colt lightning rifle. the loading gate had been replaced by some bubba one that wasn't tempered correctly so it would get stuck and jam the entire thing up. I spent forever trying to find one, then tried ordering an italian reproduction part only to find out the dimensions weren't even close, and eventually had to just make one.
Anon please, look at the image that I responded to. That is a Winchester model 1892, the lever action is the dead give away lmao.
The gun you seem to think it should be is a pump action and can't be mistaken.
I noticed that too
welp guess I'm moronic and posted the wrong image. here's the actual lightning with the loading gate I made for it. after I was sure that it would fit I went back and scalloped it out a little and rust blued it.
What was wrong with that 92?
A remington 700 in pic related wildcatted to a .338 (because frick finding .330 bullet and barrel). I'm basically just starting as I wait for the action
Update after 4 days
>mag, stock, and recoil lug has shipped too
>undecided on barrel brand
nice
Thanks. Is there any barrel maker you can recommend? I'm not wanting super high tier but I don't want garbage either. Unsure if I should go with McGowan as I heard they can frick up your order. It's the only one I know of that can do a chamberless prefit without needing to email them directly for it
why use a real remington instead of an aftermarket one?
Honestly I have no clue. First time doing this. Didn't spend much on it though
well that was your first mistake. remingtons are shit. I don't know why you want an unchambered prefit since you are better off cutting the action threads at the same time as you chamber the barrel.
I'm trying to make a gun that fires a .223 bullet with a shotgun shell
Ah, so basically what the military is doing now then.
I’ve been making guns for a long time. Dreams have moved from making single stack magwells/magazines into double stack to making home made fire spreaders.
Currently my dream is based off of the knowledge I’ve collected from my field of work. I would like to buy one of those shitty 400 dollar rail guns that fires metal balls at nerf gun speed.
I want to then reverse engineer one for myself to have super conductors rather than whatever gay magnet they’re using.
I want to replace it’s projectile with a huge metal needle made of rare earth metals.
I want to replace it’s power source with a 30 foot rectangular cable running to multiple deuce and a half mounted military Fermont MEP-802 5 kilowatt generators. I would need to walk along the truck as it moves, but I hope to either send projectiles through 4 inches of armor or die in a massive arc of electricity.
Can somebody send this guy some fricking money?
Thank you anon. I already have all the money I need. Just had my first kid and finished building a new house in the ashes of my old one so I’ve been sort of busy for the past year. Dreams have gone to the back burner like so many other men, but I don’t intend to stop creating. I wish I could tell you some of the projects I’ve worked on.
When I finish it’ll be posted.
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Currently working on 3 P80s but once you've done one, you've really done it all. Looking to try my hand at 80% 1911s but I think I'll get real tired of handsanding
You should take on the time traveler challenge me and my friends made up. Imagine making a clone of a preexisting gun with tools that would’ve existed 500 years ago. You would live life with the knowledge that you could build a firearm with a burlap sack containing hand tools.
where does one source quality steel mlok t nuts in bulk?
My life goal is create a limited run of 7-8 shot .357mag revolvers, with a camming action like the Nagant, with an accompanying suppressor. I don't know who to talk to, but i think about this all the time. for at least 7 years now.
I feel like most gunsmiths will think this is silly, and I don't know how to express what I need to a machinist or shop. I'm willing to dump money into development of this, i just do not know where to start. Just get a drill press, metal files, and some steel?
start by modelling it in a cad program
Visualize it well. Make it out of wood or plastic. Then replicate with steel or (because it’s a limited run) something more unique. Insane people use power drills and various jigs to mill steel and aluminum. Professionals use drill presses and lathes. Brainy DIYers use electrolytic baths of liquid and copper wire to cnc in their bath tub. If you want to skip some work at the expense of creative freedom then find a pre existing baseline that you think looks sick (maybe a nagant) copy some aspects of its design after locating some blueprints. Look up the internal psi created by a span of different examples of ammo types of the caliber you want. Then compare that to a few listed max recommended psi on some similar revolvers to get an idea of material thickness and type of material required. Look at some diagrams, 3D models, parts kits, 3D and IRL disassembly videos on some revolvers to fully realize the different parts required to make one function. (Though they appear to be just a handful of moving parts most are just a little more complex than that) then if your poor get mobile version of autocad, if your poor and moronic you would use blender, if your poor and you simply can’t afford a single pack of cigarettes then there’s lots of free 3D modeling software. All of this part is just to help you fully realize what you want and how it functions. Then create it. Any drill bit that spins is good enough. A jig is a piece of wood or plastic that has numbered holes in the sides so that you know if you drill them all in order you’ll have what you want out of the main piece of metal (they also help you be just a little more stable than a man with a drill in his hand). Make it! Skip steps by stealing parts from other guns. Spring steel is different than regular steel. The atf doesn’t care as long as you don’t share. Test it safely please. To add rifling you have to force a special piece of metal through your previously drilled barrel.
is that Gong Li?
she can Li Gong my wiener
Forgive me, I opted to delete a lot of cohesion in what I was saying to get under that 2000 character limit. Ideally you would use a pc and autocad to 3D model it or make a diagram with measurements, 3D print it, drill press to cut the metal to shape of revolver frame and cylinder, lathe to drill out the barrel, you can use types of band saws to get the basic shape of the casted metal but I wouldn’t. I would probably just try and cast myself with a graphite crucible(and lots of prayer(they crack for no reason)) and a mold made out of the 3D printed plastic. Once you have what looks like a gun then you still need to shove that reamer through the barrel (like I already said) and coat is some how. There’s anodizing, bluing, cerakoting, pluming, browning, wrapping and like 50 other ways to coat a gun. Some will require baths of solution, some will require fume hoods, some will require rubbing some shit on it, some will require you to bake it in a standard oven (that you will never use again). Then to test your weapon that you’ve spent 4 dollars making, 7 years of dreaming, and a month of labor working on you’re going to want to give your life to generating a mass shooting. Imagine the PR for your homemade weapon.
I basically said the same thing twice so that you have the option of the Brazilian route and the professional route. I prefer a mix of the two.
My dream is a break action integrally suppressed 9 shot 9mm revolver
are there suppliers for 1022 bolts?
ruger ones or can you use volquartsen?
preferably the cheapest one
Just made a badass sawed off shotgun out of a mossberg 50, I'm pretty much a master blacksmith
I want to design and sell a kit(s) for 1892 Winchesters(repros anyway) so that they can feed longer cartridges with ideally minimal gunsmithing(fitting).
The kit would include left and right cartridge guides, an ejector, and a carrier. The carrier and ejector determine how long of a cartridge will fit into the action from the magazine tube in the first place. If the carrier stop is too far forward and the ejector too proud of the bolt face, then the nose of a long bullet will hit the reciever between chamber and mag tube when the carrier is supposed to raise. That's a non-start.
Once that's sorted, you need a carrier that is aligned with the bottom of the chamber and perhaps modified so it raises at a shallower angle. This will prevent the bullet nose from striking the top of the chamber.
Then the cartridge guides will need to be made so they raise the rear of the cartridge earlier so the long bullet enters the chamber as square as possible, basically the forward portion of the rim slot is moved further back.
Do you think 3D printed versions of these parts would hold up to test cycling?
My dream gunsmithing project is to make a sliding breech that will screw on to a M2HB barrel, that I can build into a 1/10th scale AT gun. Something that I can sit behind and run though the motions of loading and laying the gun. One day....
Looking to start work on building a 1911. I've inherited a bunch of old Colt slides, but the frame I got was pretty bargain-bin and seems oversized for any actual fitment. Should I try my hand at hand-fitting?
>Should I try my hand at hand-fitting?
With a 1911 you already have to hand-fit it anyway
I knew a guy that built 1911. He was a USMC National Match armorer.It ain't easy
if it's oversized as in the slide fits loosely on the frame rails all you can do is peen the rails down
I mean oversized, in the sense that the frame rails are too big for any slides to get on.
Any good resources for first-time handfitters?
Pretty much any gun-building forum will have dozens of threads of 75-year-old autists building out six different 1911s, documenting every single file stroke with pictures, and explaining everything that went wrong and how they fixed it.
Building a semi sterling and going to get a friend who's a prop builder to add the e11 parts to it.
Already got a bunch of 9mm red tracer stockpiled. Gunna be fun.
Make sure not to hit anything!
Nobody makes the rifle I want, so I'm going to have to do it myself. I'm still working through the concept, though. I intend to bring clips back.
What's the rifle?
A clip fed, either stripper or en-bloc, that loads from the bottom so you can use whatever the frick optics you want. Full power cartridge, semi-auto.
I'm really surprised this isn't already a thing for ban states or something, given that lever action ARs now exist.
Right now I'm mulling over using a hinged floor plate. If the BAR Mk3 used 10 round en-blocs it'd be exactly what I want.
Why don't you crib some of the design elements from the RSC-17? If en-bloc is on the table, then the design can more or less be lifted wholesale.
You have no idea how disappointed I am with myself that I forgot it already exists.
I am now, though the ability to use things already available, like the NATO .308 clips or the Garand clips, would be ideal. If I ever want to market this thing, low chance that'd be, I don't want it locked down with proprietary bullshit. I just want to make a convenient range toy, really.
Super big bonus if I can use a commercially available receiver and barrel, but I'm probably going to have to do some fab for this b***h anyway, and a hand mill has been on my wishlist for some time. I will most definitely not try to make my own barrels.
Can you make a pinned or welded insert for an AR10 style gun that fits Garand 308 enblocs? That seems pretty simple
I'd probably have to knock off the entire front of the magwell to accommodate the long follower/arm assembly, though I could then use the front takedown pin holes to secure it and let it hinge.
Have you considered curved stripper clips? Might be easier
>you got any gunsmithing projects, /k/?
Not right now, but you can have this one if you want:
A guide by Anon (pic related):
If anyone wants to have a handgun by this time next week for under $200 without a background check, then go exchange cash for a prepaid Visa card from a gas station and buy these three things:
Rifled 12 gauge to .22lr adapter
(if you get a rifled adapter then the handgun you are about to make is actually a legal handgun under federal law because all handguns in the US are required to have rifled barrels per the GCA of 1968)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/283709523727?hash=item420e67c70f:g:wkAAAOSw5B9dsx~5&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4Pqgg8clLbBOPBDfdJ3SK0vXYf8IZA2CtaJcAoyoNuw5vwyXrKj67UlUr0J%2B0e498G6ueBCDWGyMPBPvo4gV5MH9U60GZ8VbbL2tpdORBvBCc94t4YWLHgOimhleup8uiSkMOa83yuosuLVfZto%2FR8F5BGXgezyIBgGtV%2BMqmtmnxTUOt8ZmycodEiQqfJPEXx6qKiQfU1TGZL%2Fz0kLYXU71ghzW42%2F%2BSImkUGQcAmgV0RIGelEYAmDgwrd%2Fls2KUdY%2Fnkh23fDO5soM%2BM6K5Q8gqe9tqLmNDOdlxXsZv6Hk%7Ctkp%3ABFBMyMu--qpi
Orion flare gun (like in pic):
https://www.amazon.com/Orion-Safety-Alerter-Coastal-Signalling/dp/B07HNR7K31
A box of CCI .22LR ammo:
https://www.opticsplanet.com/cci-ammunition-mini-mag-22-long-rifle-40gr-jsp-rimfire-ammo-100-rounds.html
TIPS:
1. If any website asks you if u are over 18 or 21 be sure to say yes
2. Always do guest checkout when possible and screenshot ur order number just in case.
3. The adapter wont fit into the flare gun by default so simply file out the rim inside the barrel till it fits (or grind down the adapter)
4. If the 22lr round wont fire then rotate the adapter in the barrel until the firing pin hits the rim properly.
5. The adapter will try to jump back out of the gun under recoil. Wrap it with a bit of tape and press it in the barrel to prevent this
Have fun, and remember as long as your flare gun has a rifled barrel and you arent a felon this thing is actually a legal handgun under federal law and in *most* states as well.
Does the adaptor have an extractor?
No, but your fingers do. The adapter I linked to has a cut in the face for extraction via fingernail. If all else fails then you can always use a nail as a ramrod.
If you duct tape a pen tube with a magnet in it under the barrel you can even store the ramrod on the gun.
Youtube used to have a lot of vids on these Orion flare guns mods but idk if they still do now.
as long as you are just using a 22 adapter this is cheaper than the flare gun and would work fine
https://www.amazon.com/Perimeter-Warning-Security-Camping-Property/dp/B0BZSF6ZQJ
Yeah that would work just fine from a technical perspective, but zip gun format just isnt as /comfy/ as flaregun pistol grip format.
However I made need some of those anyways for use with their intended purpose. Hmm...
>5. The adapter will try to jump back out of the gun under recoil. Wrap it with a bit of tape and press it in the barrel to prevent this
I have heard from a guy in minecraft that you can instead
5 : Run a couple pins horizontally through the adapter about an eighth of an inch above and below the barrel liner, AND forward of the chamber, to hold the insert into the flare gun
6: weld the nose and butt of the insert in place with acetone or epoxy
7: if you're feeling fancy, it is possible to add a metal retaining strap on top of the barrel.This requires modifying the frame and hammer slightly to add another pin. It theoretically increases the chance of the whole thing grenading, but a) it will blow out the top if it goes and b) you were gonna use tape anyway.
Metal inserts like
are a lot easier and a bit safer to mod
This website is a favorite of mine. You guys might like it too.
https://homemadeguns.wordpress.com/
That seems dangerous as frick
*boom*
Guy test fired it twice apparently. It actually looks to be well made, but the extractor looks way too small and delicate.
https://homemadeguns.wordpress.com/2023/04/09/homemade-7-62x39-semi-auto-carbine-made-from-a-paintball-marker/
Anyone remember this archive that got posted here a lot back in 2019? Well, there's actually some interesting stuff in there even though all of the CAD files are pre FGC-9.
https://mega.nz/file/botCXIjS#6tRVwbxHnwNhJIDhIwufODDwi_EdlDhkxcgCUEbf-Z8
Some of the videos in this zip dont seem to be on youtube anymore either, like the "Casting an AR lower from beer cans" vid.
>Anyone remember this archive that got posted here a lot back in 2019?
Yeah. This pdf was making the rounds back then as well. It's basically just a compilation of /k/ infographics but modeled after a book from fallout or something. The water purification stuff is what I found most interesting in it.
https://www.mediafire.com/file/2vx7h5zo5r26k4b/The-Patriots-Cookbook-PDF.zip/file
Rude.
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Saw some Ukrainians absolutely DRINK Russian blood with 3D printed guns. They kinda freak me out seeing them stateside but MAN I LOVE SEEING DEAD RUSSIANS!
Rent free
I have one that seems impossible.
I want to slap a detachable magazine on my Mauser. However, the Mauser is a Swedish M94 carbine in .308, which means it's short action. All Mauser conversions I can get are long action for the K98, and the only one I've found that sells short action bottom metals is PTG, but to ship to Europe (where I am) I need a fricking ITAR license.
Definitely not impossible, just aids. You might be able to get the item either legally or illegally, or you might be able to make an equivalent yourself if you tried hard enough.
All I've done is put some ar-15s together which is nothing. I've been wanting to get into repairing broken firearms, but I have no clue where to start looking. I also need a good workbench that I can place in my Chinese cube that won't take up too much space.
Look for gunsmith specials or beat to shit guns.
You need hand files, a dremel, punches, and a brass tipped hammer. I'd advise some knipex pliers, but that's just me.
If you really want to get into tearing them down, and refinishing them I recommend:
A 20 ton hydraulic press, multiples grits of sandpaper, a small torch, wood glue, some c clamps or a vise with leather padded jaws.
If you want to make firearms or make new parts for them you really need:
A bench grinder/sander, a chemical setup for finishes, a lathe for making cylindrical parts, a milling machine for making everything else. I'd also recommend a wood router for making rough gun stocks, but that can be done with a hacksaw
Anyone have advice on fixing a small Crack in a wood stock? My rifle buttplate screw hole has a cracked and I would like to fix it.
Wood glue and clamps. Apply wood glue, Pad the clamps with towels so you don't marr the stock, and then wait until the glue sets (maybe a day or more) then put the screw back in with a hand screwdriver and not an impact driver.
Hopefully this helps.
Thanks
I've found that clamping around a screw or a hole never works because the clamping force distorts the hole. depending on how deep the crack is you could either try glueing it back together with the screw in place and covered with wax so it doesn't get stuck, or you could just cut the entire cracked piece out of inlet a patch block.
Since /msg/ is dead right now what would be the best way to clean my k31 stock without removing the finish? From my research I believe the swiss used some kind of shellac on this beech stock. Thanks in advance.
Forgot to post the imynage
https://www.wisconsinhistory.org/Records/Article/CS4249
Thanks for this I did read some people saying to use dish soap and warm water while others say not to but thanks for the info.
Id say the crack is about maybe 4-6mm deep. So just put some glue in the crack and use the screw to try and fill the crack?
How do these akm rear rivet heads look? This is my first build
Look like shit but I have never gotten long rivets to look good. And I've built about 10 aks. The real measure of quality is whether or not they hold, which I'm sure yours will.
how did you set those rivets?
is there a way of doing it quietly?
an arbor press maybe?
How would you go about taking the sight wings on an M16A2 front sight base and making them straight vertical? Is there even a way to really do that or is this autistic dream of mine fricked?
make a square spacer that's the width you want between them. heat the sight ears until they're cherry red. put the space between them and pound them flat.
not that guy but there's a bunch of fixtures you can buy to do it on a hydraulic press
>heat the sight ears until they're cherry red
What are FSB's like that coated with? They're not blued, right? Either way you cut it how do I go about getting it back to black once I've straightened them out to my liking?
they are usually just parkerized. you could repark the whole thing or if you are lazy just dunk it in cold blue.
You often hear about people using 5.5mm air rifle barrels as liner for homemade 22lr guns. But isn't that a recipe for disaster? A 22lr projectile is 5.72mm in diameter, or is the difference negligible?
It's fine, especially since .22lr operates at comparatively low pressures.
It's normal to use a barrel with a diameter at the lands that's about 0.2mm smaller than the bullet diameter, and a diameter at the deepest part of the groves being roughly equal to the bullet diameter.
So using a chunk of air rifle barrel for .22lr works. It's just that the accuracy will be complete shit since the twist rate of the rifling is all wrong.
Consider that high end PCP guns run at upwards of 4,500 PSI or so. Meanwhile, .22lr has a peak chamber pressure of 24,000 PSI. Do you really want to use a barrel designed for use at less than 1/5 the pressure?
>blah blah blah
Your words can't do much to trump reality anon, people make .22's with weak sounding liners or barrel stand ins all the time and everything goes fine.
Any good resources for getting into gunsmithing? Books/guides or shit like that.
Im too stupid to pirate solidworks so i got the free version of solid edge. Am i going to frick myself up trying to learn this? It seems way way less popular.
Just pirate solidworks. I fricked around a bit with freecad and it seemed okay. Not great, but okay.
I had a pirated copy but it stopped working and i cant be asked to unfrick it.
Solid edge isnt really free, its a profesional program like solidworks, they just offer a free student edition.
two things I'm working on.
1.) I've got a bolt action shotgun the same as this one (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TGNwpEl79FA) and am working on making it into a bulpup. This is exclusively for the meme of having the the wackiest gun at the range. The whole gun is held to the stock with one big screw, so easy to attach the stock; all I need to do is make a trigger linking mechanism (any help would be great.)
2.) I am working on developing a gun that uses a nitrogen piston (like they have in modern single shot air rifles) instead of a spring. I've got a very complex semantic partly/mostly worked out that is way to difficult for me to make, it involves rollers and an angle surface pushing against said nitrogen piston to minimize the space of the bolt and spring. Shit will likely never work but it is fun and leads me into learning more about engineering. I might just try a more conventional gun with a nitrogen piston in it to see how that goes first.
I've had the idea of a 20 gauge, semi-auto shotgun with a double stack magazine. In theory if you stacked at a 45 degree angle you'd be able to get around 8-10 rounds in a single mag that's the height of a 30 rnd 5.56 and the width of one of those quad stack mags desert tech makes if my math isn't completely moronic,
I think if someone could pull this off I could see some practical application to this beyond being fun to shoot at the range.
The idea is that you surround the barrel with like 5 of those sheet metal bits, and use the inner steel pipe as an operating rod to unlock them, allowing the barrel to travel forward
How hard is it to make a gas system from scratch? I've got dreams of making a 1895 potato-digger-style gas piston system, and am wondering whether I should bother with that or just hand-make a traditional AR-style gas system
kek, that's exactly what we are talking about. Your issue (assuming you don't have milling equipment) is that basically the geometries and/or tolerances of rotating/tilting/roller delayed blowback systems are really too complex. I did see a guy trying to hand fabricate an AR-15 (iirc) bolt system using hand tools. Looked like it was an absolute b***h.
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>I did see a guy trying to hand fabricate an AR-15 (iirc) bolt system using hand tools. Looked like it was an absolute b***h.
That sounds fricking cool, got a link?
Are there parts on guns that you modify frequently to improve function?
Do you think there would be a market for (nearly) drop ib replacement parts with those modifications already done?
Gun/car parts is such a saturated market that it's not worth getting into. Take it from a owner of a machine shop.
Best thing you could possibly get into making that would print money is niche items or machines that break down like crazy, but are essential for everyday use.
Take an excavator for example, no one but the oem makes the eye for the shafts that have to be cut off and re installed every fricking time. So just make the eyes and then bevel the bottom where it goes onto the shaft. Boom, easy 2-3k per head if you have a cnc mill and the knowledge to cad and cam.
The parts kit I'm thinking of designing is very niche, only one particular gun and one particular audience for it.
I'm not out to make mondo-bucks or any really, it's a passion project. I'll probably start by 3d printing prototypes designed in CAD until I get the desired results across several MFGs.
I've been kicking around the idea of making a gas-tube charging handle for my bullpupped Draco. There was a company that made these a few years ago but they're defunct now
That would be very cool, and I bet it's not that difficult of a thing to make. It would be even cooler if you ground off the bolt handle and used the additional charging handle exclusively, but that would mean you could never assist the bolt in going forward which might be a problem.
Bedded my rem vssf 308 with devcon. Really happy with how it turned out. Went from roughly 1.25" to 1" at 150m
Plasticine and shoe polish as release agent.
As it came out before cleaning it up with a dremel, split really easily
Nice, is 1" at 150m good, or just good-enough? I don't distance shoot at all so I don't know what's accurate and what isn't.
Good enough for deer (honestly much more than you really need) I limit myself hunting to
roughly 250-300m depending on conditions. I bedded to remove the gap at the recoil lug and free float the barrel.
It's not hard to do its similar to painting prep is 99 percent of the work.
I figured you want to action screws in to squeeze out any excess but just don't bed them in stuck hahahaha. Liberal release agent on the screws and install it upside down so you don't get bedding compound into the pillar holes.
the last time I did it I made these screws that would pull the action down against the pillars and then did the bedding and the pillars at the same time using a clamp to pull everything into the stock, but then that slightly messed up the alignment with the bottom metal inletting.
I've got a diagram I am roughly following for a side magazine model with a normal magazine housing. I found another pdf for a homemade pistol using a sten magazine that has a different kind of housing. Pic related.
The side magazine pdf has the magazine being locked on on the side tabs. The other pdf has the magazine being locked in by the rear hole. Can I use either design?
I would prefer the rear hole design due to simplicity. I'm cucking my bolt and want to reduce the hassle.
Bump limit reached, anyone wanna make a new thread and link it here? Would be nice to have a gunsmithing general thread up at all times.