Grease is in fact worse when we're talking about a non-enclosed system like the moving parts of a gun.
Grease tends to collect dust and gunk real good. When parts move, they move and "knead" the grease too. So in fact the gunk-laden grease becomes abrasive, like a piece of play-doo covered in sand.
For open systems oil is much better since you can wipe it off much easier and replace it with fresh, clean oil.
Plus: Oil has a much lower viscosity. That means it reaches complex technical parts much better than grease. Sure, you could grease the rails of a pistol slide. But greasing the trigger parts would be at least very complicated.
The same characteristic makes greas a worse protection against rust whereas Oil tends to cover surfaces completely.
tl;dr: Grease is shit for most gun applications. Use oil, even if it's just engine oil
Grease is in fact worse when we're talking about a non-enclosed system like the moving parts of a gun.
Grease tends to collect dust and gunk real good. When parts move, they move and "knead" the grease too. So in fact the gunk-laden grease becomes abrasive, like a piece of play-doo covered in sand.
For open systems oil is much better since you can wipe it off much easier and replace it with fresh, clean oil.
grease will seal against the ingress of sand better than oil. if sand gets into your firearm, oil won't prevent it from abrading the internals either. the trick is to not get sand into the action, and if some does get in there, to clean it. your only "benefit" is that wiping off oil requires slightly less muscle power than wiping off grease. are your b***h hands so pathetically weak, that wiping off grease is an unbearable burden?
>it r old so must b gud
because oil was already there before lubricating grease was invented, idiot.
he's talking out of his ass, waxes and greases actually have a longer history than oil for lubrication. animal fats, bees wax and lignum vitae have been used for mating surfaces for thousands of years before we started producing oils in any capacity.
It's okay. Go grease the everloving shit out of your guns and have fun.
And don't forget to berate people who's informations don't match your opinions.
Take care, guys.
As I wrote, it's okay. I'm wrong, you guys are right. Everybody's happy
BRB, throwing my mechanical engineering degree into the trash.
2 years ago
Anonymous
the engineers who designed excavators and mining equipment must have gotten their degrees somewhere else, because their sliding bearings, which get exposed to more sand and dirt than anyones firearm ever will, are all greased.
2 years ago
Anonymous
Yes anon, I'm sure those bearings aren't enclosed and are just exposed to the environment. Go grease your ball joints and wheel bearings and tell me how exposed they are.
2 years ago
Anonymous
tell me how exposed the internals of your firearms are.
2 years ago
Anonymous
>slow moving hydraulic arm
yeah that's why they use grease.
And yes, the inside of your firearm isn't sealed.
2 years ago
Anonymous
LOL this is the gayest way to lose an argument. but since you want to flex how you're an "engineer" because you've just earned your bachelors, I'm a real engineer who is actually employed to do real engineering right now. anything that's exposed to the elements is greased. all of our rollers, crane joints, blocks, and bearings that are constantly exposed to grit, shit, and salt water are all greased. you know what's not greased? the internals of our engines, our pumps, and our hydraulic motors, which are kept clean and sealed from the elements. this is completely antithetical to your original post. tldr you're a homosexual
2 years ago
Anonymous
Ok Mr. Engineer man, what do you recommend for gun lubricant?
2 years ago
Anonymous
refer to my earlier post
a combination of oil and grease. i use red industrial grease (high temp bearing) and clp. clp for more intricate mechanisms, grease for simple sliding surfaces such as the op rod and op rod channel on an M1, or the rails of an AK. touch ups in the field are done with oil. clp also used for cleaning then grease reapplied after cleaning.
2 years ago
Anonymous
So grease the slide/barrel and oil everything else?
2 years ago
Anonymous
Basically what the other Anon wrote too. Only that "real engineer" berated him for the same answer
2 years ago
Anonymous
>field wagie >thinks engineering is tribology
big oof
2 years ago
Anonymous
lol. lmao even.
So grease the slide/barrel and oil everything else?
if it's two mating surfaces that rub against each other, grease will usually benefit it.
if it's something like a trigger which hinges on a small pin, I'll oil it. small parts like extractors, ejectors, ejector springs, fpb, i will generally oil it. some guns need more lube than others. some need more grease. some need more oil. handguns in general usually need more oil than grease. really only a light coating of grease is needed on the slide rails. battle rifles and rifles with looser tolerances like AKs and M1 derivatives benefit from a lot of grease (also described in their respective TMs). meanwhile rifles like the AR15 are happy to run with very little of either, but prefer oils, particularly LSA (as described in the TM). it's also relevant to note that dissimilar metals/materials have higher lubricity so your aluminum/steel and polymer/steel handguns/rifles will generally need less lubricant. (this is why 1911s need to chug oil in order to function well) even something like a harder steel and a softer steel can increase lubrication: common example would be the bolt and receiver on a bolt action or M1 derivative. basically there's no catchall answer. defer to the manuals when necessary, however situation dictates and your situation may be different than someone else's.
2 years ago
Anonymous
I did work on the fields in ND while living at home from 21-29, bought and paid of my house, and am currently living of the interest from my investment.
2 years ago
Anonymous
LSA is my jam
Also Lubeanons cum lube.
2 years ago
Anonymous
>COOMER
2 years ago
Anonymous
This stuff was included with a CZ that I recently purchased.
2 years ago
Anonymous
2 years ago
Anonymous
is it no surprise LSA and nanocoom lube are both milky white and good at what they do?
2 years ago
Anonymous
motor oils are far superior, made to run for years in heavy diesel engines
2 years ago
Anonymous
Wrong board
2 years ago
Anonymous
how much RPM can your gun handle?
2 years ago
Anonymous
lmao does anyone have the ancient video of that boomer dumping motor oil in his AK? I'm pretty sure he was trolling, oil was pouring out of the bottom of the gun
grease will seal against the ingress of sand better than oil. if sand gets into your firearm, oil won't prevent it from abrading the internals either. the trick is to not get sand into the action, and if some does get in there, to clean it. your only "benefit" is that wiping off oil requires slightly less muscle power than wiping off grease. are your b***h hands so pathetically weak, that wiping off grease is an unbearable burden?
he's talking out of his ass, waxes and greases actually have a longer history than oil for lubrication. animal fats, bees wax and lignum vitae have been used for mating surfaces for thousands of years before we started producing oils in any capacity.
He's right tho. Grease is designed for use on machinery with zero fittings to push contaminants out of joints... Guns font have any delivery system like a zerk joint last time I checked.
Don't use grease on guns unless you want to wear down mating surfaces even faster.
Grease is in fact worse when we're talking about a non-enclosed system like the moving parts of a gun.
Grease tends to collect dust and gunk real good. When parts move, they move and "knead" the grease too. So in fact the gunk-laden grease becomes abrasive, like a piece of play-doo covered in sand.
For open systems oil is much better since you can wipe it off much easier and replace it with fresh, clean oil.
>Grease is in fact worse when we're talking about a non-enclosed system like the moving parts of a gun.
This Anon actually knows what they're talking about.
No he doesn’t. the only time you see oils used is when there’s an enclosed system with some kind of recirculation system. I know you think what he says sounds intuitive, but the more you know, the more you realize it’s not intuitive. Lets look at car components. Engine, transmission, diff. All enclosed with some form of recirculation. They use oil. Everything else is grease. Be it brake caliper guide rods, brtween brake pads and their caliper retainers, plastic actuators such as door locks or ac vent control motors (silicone grease), CV joints (the boot keeps it from getting flung off, not dirty although thsts a bonus), suspension components etc.
Grease is for interacting moving parts with no recirculation system to keep the lubrication fresh. Oil is great, but it migrates and flows. It would only last a mag or two on an AR before providing minimal benefit.
Current orders specify the use of equivalent automotive greases.
2 years ago
Anonymous
>MIL-G-46003A, dated 31 December 1976, is hereby cancelled without replacement
2 years ago
Anonymous
And replaced by the use of equivalent automotive grease. Lubriplate still makes the same grease and still sells it to the army.
The more modern replacement is LSA.
2 years ago
Anonymous
Why though. Would you actually change your habits based on what .mils use? Grease requires a small brush for application on slide rails, sear, etc.
You really going to frick with all that when, let's be honest, a few drops of mineral oil and proper parts replacement means the gun lasts as long as you do.
2 years ago
Anonymous
>brush
Wut? Just use a syringe like a normal person. Just a fine bead is all you need. If you’re brushing it on you’re probably using way too much.
Older motorcycle chains were lubed with an oil formula that could migrate in between the side plates and roller pins. Modern chains are “o-ring” chains where the o-rings seal packed-in grease and the oil that normally migrated in between the side plates and roller pins will also migrate past the o-rings and ruin the grease inside. The primary use of the oil these days is as a method to apply esters to the o-rings. Esters cause rubber products to swell or plump, enhancing sealing and keeping them fresh. Motorcycle chain lube is also stupid sticky compared to regular oil.
2 years ago
Anonymous
bicycle chains are also lubed with pretty much light machine oil.
2 years ago
Anonymous
except when you grease them. which is more laborious because of the complex geometry, but also lubricates better because it doesn't run off. get a random sample of bikes and I bet most of the chains are under-lubricated.
2 years ago
Anonymous
https://wd40.co.uk/tips-and-tricks/how-to-lubricate-a-motorbike-chain/ >This formula has a low initial viscosity which allows the oil to penetrate directly into the links before rapidly thickening.
WD40 sells a sprayable grease for optimal motorcycle chain lubrication. oil gays btfo again.
grease will seal against the ingress of sand better than oil. if sand gets into your firearm, oil won't prevent it from abrading the internals either. the trick is to not get sand into the action, and if some does get in there, to clean it. your only "benefit" is that wiping off oil requires slightly less muscle power than wiping off grease. are your b***h hands so pathetically weak, that wiping off grease is an unbearable burden?
This is untrue. Look at any other machine, grease tends to be used in unsealed environments and oil is usually in a closed system. Grease captures dust and grit it encounters, which is the point. Once trapped in the grease its abrasiveness is neutralized.
Some NLGI #1 grease won't be substantially harder to clean and replace than some oil, and it will stay where it's needed much better.
I use lightweight grease on sliding components, oil elsewhere. You can absolutely use oil everywhere, but let's not perpetuate the fuddlore that grease is bad.
>Play-doo
Kek. I use Red N Tacky, and apply a thin layer & it isn't even visible. I'll cede it might collect dust if you're in Afghanistan or something, which I am not. Additionally it gets cleaned and regreased frequently unlike the car part you're alluding to.
I’ve never regretted using a grease more than spray on red and tacky, just collects gunk, doesn’t spread at all, and is impossible to remove, it’s only good for sealed bearing surfaces.
You still need to make sure to apply that grease real good to cover every square inch of lands and grooves.
Just ask yourself why oil has been the universal go-to stuff since the dawn of guns.
he's talking out of his ass, waxes and greases actually have a longer history than oil for lubrication. animal fats, bees wax and lignum vitae have been used for mating surfaces for thousands of years before we started producing oils in any capacity.
all petrochemicals are recent anon. natural oils will also harden, some are solid at room temperature, they also go rancid. any criticism in that regard for natural waxes and greases can also be applied to natural oils.
2 years ago
Anonymous
>natural oils will also harden
people obviously used oils which didn't harden at temperatures which they would encounter. whale oil was used for firearm lubrication for that reason. they would also expose the oil to cold temperatures and remove the parts solidified.
oil will slowly run down the surfaces, grease will stay where it is for months and years.
machine parts that go into storage are always greased and never oiled, nowadays you can buy great spray wax that is easy to work with.
a combination of oil and grease. i use red industrial grease (high temp bearing) and clp. clp for more intricate mechanisms, grease for simple sliding surfaces such as the op rod and op rod channel on an M1, or the rails of an AK. touch ups in the field are done with oil. clp also used for cleaning then grease reapplied after cleaning.
>doesn't protect well against rust
It depends. I don't use it on my guns, but I do use it in my shipping container workshop as a cutting fluid on my milling machine, specifically because it's a shipping container so I have problems with rust due to humidity and condensation on every single metal surface whenever the temperature changes.
It does work to keep surface rust almost non existent.
If I lived in Thailand or something I'd consider it for sure.
>be me in 1982 >on the bay in a boston whaler >my dad finds and fishes out some old sims skateboard with green wheels >dries it out, the bearings are frozen >sprays wd-40 in the bearings >gud'n'new >we skate down a small hill everyday >every day he sprays the bearings again
damn dad, you were dumb sometimes. should have used 3in1 instead.
wd40 is a thin mineral oil cut with 2 parts solvent.
the tiny amount of light oil that's left will actually evaporate within a few months, yes white oil does that
buttery smooth, inherent EP properties, inherently high corrosion inhibition, fully synthetic base oil works across a wide temperature range, stable against oxidation, very mild scent.
Application is a pain using a brush and all, so I'm pretty lazy and just use oil most of the time.
> NLGI 1.5
How the frick do get a .5 in the NLGI scale? Anyway, I still prefer a 0 grease like lubriplate, but even that gets too thick down around 0F or so. I understand they have 00 greases for that, but at a certain point, I just leave those temperatures to Minnesotans or whoever.
I don't know about all that "tacky" stuff, but I haven't found an NLGI 2 grease yet that doesn't make my slide return to battery in slow-mo below freezing.
buttery smooth, inherent EP properties, inherently high corrosion inhibition, fully synthetic base oil works across a wide temperature range, stable against oxidation, very mild scent.
They're different lubes with different applications.
Grease works well on high friction metal to metal like the BCG cam pin surface, the bolt lugs, and trigger sear surfaces. It should not be used anywhere else.
T. Armorer, and a damn good one if I may say so myself.
>It should not be used anywhere else.
HOW DARE YOU!?!?!?!
Didn't you read the other posts? Grease is the best shit to lube your guns and if you don't think the same you're an idiot who parrots old opinions.
>It should not be used anywhere else.
or else what? I greased my main spring, the pins, the magazine release, the bolt catch. will those now function any less?
They'll just be more difficult to wipe clean. It's not so much the individual part as it is the entire process of field cleaning and basic maintenance. If you're putting a super light coating of grease on your buffer spring, there's no issue there. But the bolt release, use caution because it can drip into the magazine. If a big glob drops in, that cartridge will carry it into the chamber where a few things can happen. But as before, if you're doing it lightly, it's more of an oil at that point anyway.
I've heard so much random stuff from everyone I don't know what to believe. I just use whatever I have at home which is usually Remoil/hopes/break free clp/ballistol for cleaning and or lube depending on if the product is a solvent or an oil. Did recently put some white lithium grease on my AK rails, bolt stem, and carrier bottom and hammer face to try that out since I haven't used grease at all before for a lube. We'll see how it goes.
I genuinely don't know. I figure maybe oil is easier to produce or just more popular because it's been around longer? Or maybe oil and grease are better for different environments/temperatures? I think I remember reading a thread where anons talked about one or the other being worse for colder climates. I'm just an average Joe gun owner anon. What's your opinion on it?
>because engine oil is designed for continuous circulation.
Not entirely true, and a car goes through a more extreme wear environment in 15 minutes than a gun will in it's entire service life.
engine oil is fed under pressure directly (in)to the bearings, ensuring that there is a continuosly replenished oil film. deactivate your oil pump and tell me how that goes.
a combination of oil and grease. i use red industrial grease (high temp bearing) and clp. clp for more intricate mechanisms, grease for simple sliding surfaces such as the op rod and op rod channel on an M1, or the rails of an AK. touch ups in the field are done with oil. clp also used for cleaning then grease reapplied after cleaning.
is what I'm talking about. I use the same high temp red bearing grease in my M1 lol. Stuff is stinky
>clogged with dirt and debris
ffs this myth again. no, it won't get clogged just because it's over-lubed. the amount of dirt and debris that enters the inside of a firearm is independent of how much lube is in there.
some of it will get thrown off and probably collect in the fire control pocket. that won't magically clog either.
I have some that I use on triggers. Or a little bit of this on the AUG trigger. I've also heard people say not to use anything on triggers. Not sure what the correct answer is, just happy the boy in the back here is designed to run lubeless.
the sear surfaces of firearms are usually designed to run dry and if you apply lube you might be changing the equation, potentially making it unsafe. more a concern for older firearms with eyeballed sear angles. modern firearms usually have positive engagement and will be drop safe whether the sear surfaces are lubricated or not. just check to be sure.
I apply grease. everything works nicer when greased.
Not the trigger exactly but I threw in an ALG ENHANCED milspec trigger in an AR with dry trigger pins and it would not reset on it's own. Have had a few ALG triggers before and they came wetter than dogshit. Pulled it out, oiled with whatever I had on hand and it's been functioning fine for a few years now. I now put my triggers in fairly wet. Just oil though so they have a film on every surface. The LaRue 2 stage does recommend grease on the sear surfaces though and comes with small dabs on all of them.
I've been putting dry lube on trigger springs and just a little bit of oil on the hammer face and sear for a while now, and it seems to work well. Grease instead of oil might make more sense for something seeing as much friction as the hammer.
the military has to cater to a mass of dimwits. it's safer to just give them one product for all purposes and to tell them to regularly reapply it. you're not a dimwit, are you?
Anybody know what the difference between universal and oil is with this stuff? I'm assuming just operating temp, oil is better in cold environments - but they don't even explain on their website. It just seems weird that they don't label "universal" as either oil or grease.
that stuff is a terrible lubricant, but excellent penetrating oil
also, it smells like it'll give you leukemia... because it will. I live in an old linen mill town, you gotta trust me when I say I recognize the distillate in that stuff. It causes leukemia.
Run your gun as oiled as it can be without being saturated and dripping, clean often and reoil with whatever you have on hand or want to buy. It can be Dollar Tree motor oil or gucci shit promoted by doorkickers, it doesn't matter if you clean and reoil/regrease often. This shit reminds me of car owner forums where people will argue about what oil is best instead of just changing it often with whatever meets certification. You're not in the field and can't afford to do a quick cleaning of your gun, so that use scenario doesnt apply to you.
>Run your gun as oiled as it can be without being saturated and dripping, clean often and reoil with whatever you have on hand or want to buy
This is what I do minus the clean often part
If you use lots of oil, the oil washes the dirt and shit away
Grabbing my guns leaves your hands dirty and oily as frick because all the oil all over them
Cleaning guns is a meme (except 22s)
At most I will take a gun apart for service and wipe some parts down with a rag before soaking them in oil again
I'm going to start using a small amount of grease on the rails on my short-stroke piston rifles. I've always oiled them, but they seem very dry every time I take them out to shoot. I live in an arid climate which might have something to do with it.
>if you use it everywhere, youre gonna have a bad time
elaborate. grease is just oil which has been thickened to not run off. under shear stress it returns into a liquid form and functions just like a plentiful oil film. the only detriment that could occur is when the grease is so thick that it hinders function, which is absolutely not the case when applying NLGI 1 to the mechanisms if a firearm because they are nit delicate mechanisms.
I don’t use grease, makes things way more of a pain in the ass to clean and it gets old going and buying cans of brake cleen after every range trip to blast all the bits out.
This is what I use. I’ve had this tube for like 7 years. A syringe and a light bead on the parts to create a thin film when the parts interact is all you need.
Hoppes elite to clean bore, chamber, and gas system. Eezox to clean parts. Redline grease on interacting metal surfaces (cam pin, bolt body inside the bolt carrier, trigger group, guide rails, etc etc.)
as per SDS:
<40 % PAO (great)
<15 % dewaxed petroleum destillates (meh)
10-14.9 % overbased calcium sulfonate (great)
"red moly" is probably red dye and plain old MoS2. marketing stunt.
all in all it should perform great because you can't go wrong with PAO + overbased calcium sulfonate. I personally am turned off by the "red moly" marketing but that won't reduce performance.
For me g96 is king and coom lube might be second after some more testing. Grease freezes solid here and even some oils are too thick (ex. Remoil). Dry lubes below -35
>For me g96 is king and coom lube might be second after some more testing
You know that the arctic oil Prototype getting shipped this autumn for winter testing? Turned out that Exxon hadnt denied my Sample, they lost the mails ;_;
>below -35
Doesn't that much cold just piss you off? Like, I know lobster mitts are a thing, but the loss of dexterity means they have to come off for fine motor skill work, and God damn I hate when my hands get that cold and start hurting.
Yeah at that point I'm using wool gloves inside mittens with a trigger finger. Cold turns into a real c**t at those temps, mechanical stuff really does not like to move/turn over. It's also a pain to keep your nose from getting too cold.
>For me g96 is king and coom lube might be second after some more testing
You know that the arctic oil Prototype getting shipped this autumn for winter testing? Turned out that Exxon hadnt denied my Sample, they lost the mails ;_;
LMK when you get it sorted out.
I find the regular lube tends to rub off or evaporate after a few days. Seems like it's still lubing internals, but exterior stuff seems dry.
That's what it seems like. I'm just concerned with corrosion protection and with typical oils I check if it's got any sheen at all, and if not apply a tiny amount to protect it.
Oils need some time to evporate off, mostly its rubbing of into cloths or farbic which also depends on the surface structure of the finish. Internal oils are more protected and tend to flow by gravity or getting hold by capilaric force between moving parts. Are you in the mail list?
Done
Regarding corrosion prevention, have you done any salt bath or exposure testing?
2 years ago
Lube
Im giving you the info within the mails 🙂
>oils need some time to evporate off
high molecular weight oils like PAO or most synthetic esters won't evaporate in human timescales. with petroleum destillates you'll have a mix of different components and some will inevitably be volatile.
Im sitting on 1000L pure H1 grade PAOs from 10 up to 400 cSt. Depending on the viscosity they´re not evaporating over months and years, thats true. Also nice way to enjoy oil stains on stones for years,KEK
2 years ago
Anonymous
will I get doxed if I use my email with my name on it?
2 years ago
Anonymous
Lube is known to dox Anons, he's waiting until you left the house to frick your granny
>oils need some time to evporate off
high molecular weight oils like PAO or most synthetic esters won't evaporate in human timescales. with petroleum destillates you'll have a mix of different components and some will inevitably be volatile.
reminds me of the boomer I met at the range with a tricked out precision rifle, but when I try it the bolt isn't smooth at all. he never lubed it, just left the factory oil on it. wirh his permission I applied a thin film of lithium grease and he couldn't believe how smooth it suddenly was.
It doesn't flow, is too thick so it bogs down fast moving parts, and generally isn't appropriate for high temperatures or fast moving parts, both of which guns contain. And because it doesn't flash off like oil does, it collects particulates which then become an abrasive paste because the grease holds on to them more than oil, which allows debris to be blown away by gasses. It's appropriate for pins in shielded areas but nothing to do with slides or barrels and certainly not for rust protection.
I feel like the only grease people are familiar with are #2 and thicker. I have a calcium thickend #0 grease that will run if it gets warmer than room temp. I have seen #00 greases that will migrate just like oil at anything warmer than freezing temps.
And no, anon. You're not going to get a lapping compound with a layer of most greases, not at any layer of contamination you and I are going to run into. Those particulates are floating a thickener/lubrication compound.
If you don't believe me, consider what gets put on pic related. Oil migrates. Sometimes that's what you want, like a trigger group, because frick getting even the thinnest grease down in there. Sometimes it isn't. Grease for when you want the lubrication to mostly stay put.
And for cleanup, shit like #0 and thinner gonright to liquid with even ballistol. I wish my oil paints thinned that easily.
> How fast?
Probably not that fast. But the point is that oil migrates under gravity, and your pistol or rifle tends to be vertical quite often. If I want the lubrication to stay at the back of my rails, I use grease.
>Also, what happens after a rubber CV boot cracks?
Are you saying that you are worried that your slide or BCG reciprocates fast enough to sling grease off? If so, have no such fear. The only carbon/lead mess I get on me is when I don't get to all the oil that I used to clean the trigger group and it migrates with the goop down the trigger shoe due to the heat from the gun.
>It doesn't flow
not flowing when nothing is happening is the point. you do realize that grease liquifies under shear stress? of course you don't. >is too thick so it bogs down fast moving parts
wrong. there are greases with different viscosities. also see answer to #1. >and generally isn't appropriate for high temperatures
bullshit. >or fast moving parts
bullshit. >both of which guns contain.
in the grand scheme of things: not really. the working parts of guns are rather sedate. >And because it doesn't flash off like oil does, it collects particulates which then become an abrasive paste
fuddlore bullshit. find me ANY PROFESSIONAL source on this piece of "gun guy" wisdom.
>WD40 better than oil and grease mix
Wait a second... are you trying to trick me? Maybe the oil dripped off or was pushed away by the water? WD 40 dries very fast but oil doesn't. Not saying you're wrong, but that some circumstance caused it to do worse.
when WD40 dries it leaves a pretty stable film which inhibits corrosion.
motor oil contains a lot of surfactants because its job is to suspend combustion byproducts (="fouling") and transport them to the oil filter. surfactants make it easier for water to wash away the oil film. that's why motor oil is a poor corrosion inhibitor vs. water spray. also makes it a decent cleaner.
>surfactants make it easier for water to wash away the oil film.
My synthetic grease and synthetic oil mix is 20/80 maybe it's time to up the grease content to 60/40. Works on my machine but I'm looking forward to your next batch of coomoil. I have a browning Xbolt and I want to see how it affects the bolt travel action.
Its not wrong, tested MO 3 times and everytime live on /k/. Synthetic or non-synthetic it gets directly BTFO. The result isnt that surprising when you look into the chemistry.
WD40 is evaporating solvent that flashs off, light mineral oil that still needs some time and a small amount sulfonate rust inhibitor(pretty evaporating resistant). There is no real content of chemicals pressent with hydrophilic character, so its not that bad to provide "some" protection. Motor oil contains near to no rust inhibitors, while the grease did. Motor oil contains alot of chemicals to protect the motor itself from carbon, dirt, water and foam by binding eveything until its getting filtered or evaporated somehow. These chemicals/detergents
arent fully hydrophobe and Im very sure that its the reason why its causing hard rust and kills the water protection from the grease. Its less than a water blocking barrier than the super thin layer of WD40. Check the results for WD40 long term rust inhibitor, that is kind of the same but the oil/sulfonate is changed into a classic rust protection formula for industrial usage.
ancient Romans cleaned themselves by covering themselves with oil and scraping it off with a strigil. maybe we should go back to that practice, but with coom.
try both and you'll notice the difference.
for the cheapest solution, go to a hardware store and ask for the cheapest synthetic lithium grease without PTFE/Teflon.
The grease covered by this specification is intended for use in the fabrication of rifles and other small arms only when such weapons are used under conditions of sustained rain. The temperature range under which this grease will be used is 2°C (35°F) to 38°C (100°F). This grease is not intended as a replacement for conventional oils under conditions other than sustained rain.
IMAO, greasetards BTFO
Grease would make sense in any application that isn't being subject to combustion events and byproduct,
Which is the total opposite of a gun's internals.
Oil for use, grease for long term storage.
I wouldn't prefer engine oil either, though that's just nitpicking. A continuously rotating engine fed with filtered, pressure pumped oil is not the same environment physically or chemically as a weapon.
Stop being lazy and throw more lube in every 300-500rds. Stop being lazy and clean it out every 600-1000.
it's conspicuous that the "don't use grease because it will turn into grinding paste" wisdom is only found among gun guys, who are known to be very receptive to myths.
the military loves CLP because it's a one size fits all solution for a huge number of people who usually do a lot more cleaning than shooting.
MIL-L-46000 lubricant, semi-fluid is a grease in US military use >intended for use in automatic weapons systems and accessory equipment operating in severe environments and conditions where thin film and extreme pressure lubrication are encountered
apparently the magic "turns abrasive" property vanishes as soon as it isn't in the hands of the regular grunt.
LSA was the standard grease on everything, including the M16
It will if not cleaned in a long enough interval. If you're cleaning your guns regularly it's likely not an issue. Non of you grease gays have given any reason as to why anyone should bother using grease over oil in the first place.
Show me the manual for one firearm you own that says to use grease. >Hardmode: No pre-1950's military rifles
2 years ago
Anonymous
2 years ago
Anonymous
>COPYRIGHT MIL-COMM PRODUCTS COMPANY INC
IMAO, thats a DIY instruction to sneak into the military for shekels
2 years ago
Anonymous
my AR-15 manual advises against grease, explicitly because it will supposedly harden in the cold and cause malfunctions. clearly they know the average firearms customer is borderline moronic and can't be trusted to choose a grease with a lower operating temperature limit of -100 °F, like this
https://i.imgur.com/nC12hH5.jpg
This is what I use. I’ve had this tube for like 7 years. A syringe and a light bead on the parts to create a thin film when the parts interact is all you need.
Hoppes elite to clean bore, chamber, and gas system. Eezox to clean parts. Redline grease on interacting metal surfaces (cam pin, bolt body inside the bolt carrier, trigger group, guide rails, etc etc.)
2 years ago
Anonymous
: No pre-1950's military rifles >show me one firearm >not these because the only guns that people own are glock and ar 15. I've already explained in detail here my process for selecting lubricants for each firearm.
https://i.imgur.com/0wKp5iW.jpg
lol. lmao even.
[...]
if it's two mating surfaces that rub against each other, grease will usually benefit it.
if it's something like a trigger which hinges on a small pin, I'll oil it. small parts like extractors, ejectors, ejector springs, fpb, i will generally oil it. some guns need more lube than others. some need more grease. some need more oil. handguns in general usually need more oil than grease. really only a light coating of grease is needed on the slide rails. battle rifles and rifles with looser tolerances like AKs and M1 derivatives benefit from a lot of grease (also described in their respective TMs). meanwhile rifles like the AR15 are happy to run with very little of either, but prefer oils, particularly LSA (as described in the TM). it's also relevant to note that dissimilar metals/materials have higher lubricity so your aluminum/steel and polymer/steel handguns/rifles will generally need less lubricant. (this is why 1911s need to chug oil in order to function well) even something like a harder steel and a softer steel can increase lubrication: common example would be the bolt and receiver on a bolt action or M1 derivative. basically there's no catchall answer. defer to the manuals when necessary, however situation dictates and your situation may be different than someone else's.
a combination of oil and grease. i use red industrial grease (high temp bearing) and clp. clp for more intricate mechanisms, grease for simple sliding surfaces such as the op rod and op rod channel on an M1, or the rails of an AK. touch ups in the field are done with oil. clp also used for cleaning then grease reapplied after cleaning.
>It will if not cleaned in a long enough interval
so will oil. so how is this a reason to not use grease?
>Non of you grease gays have given any reason as to why anyone should bother using grease over oil in the first place.
the #1 reason to use grease over oil is because it stays were you put it and if you put it where it's needed it will lubricate better for longer.
Yes anon you figured it out. All these years gun manufactures have been recommending oil which just drips away from where you put it and along the answer was grease. Get S&W, Glock and Beretta on the phone. They'll make you rich when you tell them about this discovery of yours!
2 years ago
Anonymous
All three of those ship their firearms with grease applied to them.
I actually would like to know if anyone has ever suffered a failure on their firearm that is directly attributable to the failure of whatever lubricant they were using? I've tried everything from fricking tap magic to braycote 601 and it doesn't seem to matter.
Only one I can think of is short strokes and FtEs from burning off all the lube on a BCG while working on talking guns. In that case, the damn thing was so hot, I'm pretty sure it burned off any and all ballistol I had on the thing.
A grease on the BCG might not have burned off, but any oil with a higher boiling point (or whatever the applicable term is) than mineral oil would have also worked.
A few reasons. The msds usualy shows direct information about the base stcok viscosity, extrem high viscosity and even worse mineral based means that its getting extremly stiff very soon in the cold. The other rason is the usage field. Brake Parts needs to be water resistant and very tacky which isnt what you want tbh. The temp range isnt special, syntheic oils (PAO;PEG..) are always at -50°F and below and the max heat rating is cringle AF. Only snake oil sellers use the decomposition temp of the ceramics to hide the real Flash Point of the oil. Based on the strange information on the msds and sds I would say CA-Soap Complex with a 200-300cSt non-synthetic mineral oil, very small amount of ceramics (may some SiO2) and some color to look nice (purple).
Where do I get proper Schweizer Automattenfett? I got an SG55x recently and basic b***h oil won’t cut it anymore. They gun did come with a tube of the stuff but I don’t see it anywhere else for sale other than used surplus tubes of the stuff.
Its getting pressed on the steel when racking the slide and everything beside that isnt part of the lubrication process. Non lubricating oil can separate, its just there to prevent rust
that's not how it works. the oil doesn't separate into diffetent oil fractions. the solids settle. the oil provides fluid film lubrication, a cushion of liquid which separates the sliding metal surfaces. when the metal surfaces come into contact despite said fluid film, either because the load is very high or because the surfaces are very rough, the solids still prevent direct metal to metal contact and cold welding because they won't flow away.
Something along the lines of pic related, this one is a 10ml so you may want to look for something larger or with a larger gauge applicator needle that can push the grease through.
They closed the DOW reseach lab in B-W, only the analysis department is running to check the insulating material production and the epoxy. Kind of sad, empty labs and fully deactivated
I still haven't figured out what happened to the camel.
That shit was a economy competition, I have no clue what they do now because I hate economics so much I switched the course into physics because its wasted lifetime tbh.
hey lubedude, while you're here: what readily availabe product contains PAO and not much else? I want to make a PAO-based grease a bit thinner without adding lots of unknowns.
I can send you pure PAO if you´re living in germany, only source for pretty pure oils are hydraulic fluids. Try to find something in that class, otherwise it should be good if its a synthetic glycol/PAO blend
Klar, schicke dir auch 80°C Hartwachs 🙂 Bin mir sicher du bekommst einen geilen Rostschutz für die Lappentränkung hin. Wachs wird ins PAO eingeschmolzen, erst nach dem Abkühlen kommt Rostschutz dazu.
Grease is in fact worse when we're talking about a non-enclosed system like the moving parts of a gun.
Grease tends to collect dust and gunk real good. When parts move, they move and "knead" the grease too. So in fact the gunk-laden grease becomes abrasive, like a piece of play-doo covered in sand.
For open systems oil is much better since you can wipe it off much easier and replace it with fresh, clean oil.
Plus: Oil has a much lower viscosity. That means it reaches complex technical parts much better than grease. Sure, you could grease the rails of a pistol slide. But greasing the trigger parts would be at least very complicated.
The same characteristic makes greas a worse protection against rust whereas Oil tends to cover surfaces completely.
tl;dr: Grease is shit for most gun applications. Use oil, even if it's just engine oil
pov: you have no idea what you're talking about
It's okay. Go grease the everloving shit out of your guns and have fun.
And don't forget to berate people who's informations don't match your opinions.
Take care, guys.
it's "whose" and your "information" is parroted opinions.
As I wrote, it's okay. I'm wrong, you guys are right. Everybody's happy
BRB, throwing my mechanical engineering degree into the trash.
the engineers who designed excavators and mining equipment must have gotten their degrees somewhere else, because their sliding bearings, which get exposed to more sand and dirt than anyones firearm ever will, are all greased.
Yes anon, I'm sure those bearings aren't enclosed and are just exposed to the environment. Go grease your ball joints and wheel bearings and tell me how exposed they are.
tell me how exposed the internals of your firearms are.
>slow moving hydraulic arm
yeah that's why they use grease.
And yes, the inside of your firearm isn't sealed.
LOL this is the gayest way to lose an argument. but since you want to flex how you're an "engineer" because you've just earned your bachelors, I'm a real engineer who is actually employed to do real engineering right now. anything that's exposed to the elements is greased. all of our rollers, crane joints, blocks, and bearings that are constantly exposed to grit, shit, and salt water are all greased. you know what's not greased? the internals of our engines, our pumps, and our hydraulic motors, which are kept clean and sealed from the elements. this is completely antithetical to your original post. tldr you're a homosexual
Ok Mr. Engineer man, what do you recommend for gun lubricant?
refer to my earlier post
So grease the slide/barrel and oil everything else?
Basically what the other Anon wrote too. Only that "real engineer" berated him for the same answer
>field wagie
>thinks engineering is tribology
big oof
lol. lmao even.
if it's two mating surfaces that rub against each other, grease will usually benefit it.
if it's something like a trigger which hinges on a small pin, I'll oil it. small parts like extractors, ejectors, ejector springs, fpb, i will generally oil it. some guns need more lube than others. some need more grease. some need more oil. handguns in general usually need more oil than grease. really only a light coating of grease is needed on the slide rails. battle rifles and rifles with looser tolerances like AKs and M1 derivatives benefit from a lot of grease (also described in their respective TMs). meanwhile rifles like the AR15 are happy to run with very little of either, but prefer oils, particularly LSA (as described in the TM). it's also relevant to note that dissimilar metals/materials have higher lubricity so your aluminum/steel and polymer/steel handguns/rifles will generally need less lubricant. (this is why 1911s need to chug oil in order to function well) even something like a harder steel and a softer steel can increase lubrication: common example would be the bolt and receiver on a bolt action or M1 derivative. basically there's no catchall answer. defer to the manuals when necessary, however situation dictates and your situation may be different than someone else's.
I did work on the fields in ND while living at home from 21-29, bought and paid of my house, and am currently living of the interest from my investment.
LSA is my jam
Also Lubeanons cum lube.
>COOMER
This stuff was included with a CZ that I recently purchased.
is it no surprise LSA and nanocoom lube are both milky white and good at what they do?
motor oils are far superior, made to run for years in heavy diesel engines
Wrong board
how much RPM can your gun handle?
lmao does anyone have the ancient video of that boomer dumping motor oil in his AK? I'm pretty sure he was trolling, oil was pouring out of the bottom of the gun
You should, you're clearly moronic.
He's right tho. Grease is designed for use on machinery with zero fittings to push contaminants out of joints... Guns font have any delivery system like a zerk joint last time I checked.
Don't use grease on guns unless you want to wear down mating surfaces even faster.
>Grease is in fact worse when we're talking about a non-enclosed system like the moving parts of a gun.
This Anon actually knows what they're talking about.
No he doesn’t. the only time you see oils used is when there’s an enclosed system with some kind of recirculation system. I know you think what he says sounds intuitive, but the more you know, the more you realize it’s not intuitive. Lets look at car components. Engine, transmission, diff. All enclosed with some form of recirculation. They use oil. Everything else is grease. Be it brake caliper guide rods, brtween brake pads and their caliper retainers, plastic actuators such as door locks or ac vent control motors (silicone grease), CV joints (the boot keeps it from getting flung off, not dirty although thsts a bonus), suspension components etc.
Grease is for interacting moving parts with no recirculation system to keep the lubrication fresh. Oil is great, but it migrates and flows. It would only last a mag or two on an AR before providing minimal benefit.
Show me US military spec gun grease
In use rn?
Current orders specify the use of equivalent automotive greases.
>MIL-G-46003A, dated 31 December 1976, is hereby cancelled without replacement
And replaced by the use of equivalent automotive grease. Lubriplate still makes the same grease and still sells it to the army.
The more modern replacement is LSA.
Why though. Would you actually change your habits based on what .mils use? Grease requires a small brush for application on slide rails, sear, etc.
You really going to frick with all that when, let's be honest, a few drops of mineral oil and proper parts replacement means the gun lasts as long as you do.
>brush
Wut? Just use a syringe like a normal person. Just a fine bead is all you need. If you’re brushing it on you’re probably using way too much.
I use detail brushes, like for linework.
https://standards.globalspec.com/std/14340131/MIL-PRF-46000
Why are chains lubed with oil and not grease?
Older motorcycle chains were lubed with an oil formula that could migrate in between the side plates and roller pins. Modern chains are “o-ring” chains where the o-rings seal packed-in grease and the oil that normally migrated in between the side plates and roller pins will also migrate past the o-rings and ruin the grease inside. The primary use of the oil these days is as a method to apply esters to the o-rings. Esters cause rubber products to swell or plump, enhancing sealing and keeping them fresh. Motorcycle chain lube is also stupid sticky compared to regular oil.
bicycle chains are also lubed with pretty much light machine oil.
except when you grease them. which is more laborious because of the complex geometry, but also lubricates better because it doesn't run off. get a random sample of bikes and I bet most of the chains are under-lubricated.
https://wd40.co.uk/tips-and-tricks/how-to-lubricate-a-motorbike-chain/
>This formula has a low initial viscosity which allows the oil to penetrate directly into the links before rapidly thickening.
WD40 sells a sprayable grease for optimal motorcycle chain lubrication. oil gays btfo again.
>Don't use grease on guns unless you want to wear down mating surfaces even faster.
there's that fuddlore again.
here's an exposed surface that is greased. there is no shortage of them either.
>GAYY8J
there are products which start out liquid and turn into a stable grease in a short amount of time.
fudd logic.
grease will seal against the ingress of sand better than oil. if sand gets into your firearm, oil won't prevent it from abrading the internals either. the trick is to not get sand into the action, and if some does get in there, to clean it. your only "benefit" is that wiping off oil requires slightly less muscle power than wiping off grease. are your b***h hands so pathetically weak, that wiping off grease is an unbearable burden?
This is untrue. Look at any other machine, grease tends to be used in unsealed environments and oil is usually in a closed system. Grease captures dust and grit it encounters, which is the point. Once trapped in the grease its abrasiveness is neutralized.
Some NLGI #1 grease won't be substantially harder to clean and replace than some oil, and it will stay where it's needed much better.
I use lightweight grease on sliding components, oil elsewhere. You can absolutely use oil everywhere, but let's not perpetuate the fuddlore that grease is bad.
dont tell him that anon he has a bachelors in mechanical engineering cryfacelaighingemoji.
>Play-doo
Kek. I use Red N Tacky, and apply a thin layer & it isn't even visible. I'll cede it might collect dust if you're in Afghanistan or something, which I am not. Additionally it gets cleaned and regreased frequently unlike the car part you're alluding to.
I’ve never regretted using a grease more than spray on red and tacky, just collects gunk, doesn’t spread at all, and is impossible to remove, it’s only good for sealed bearing surfaces.
the super tacky stuff is good for slide rails of pistols with lots of functional reserve. but the creamy stuff is better multi purpose.
this is what happens when you play too many video games and post your "thought experiments" to r*ddit daily
grease is ideal for rust prevention, i always use KORROSIONSSCHUTZFETT inside the barrel for long term storage of my old Mauser rifles.
You still need to make sure to apply that grease real good to cover every square inch of lands and grooves.
Just ask yourself why oil has been the universal go-to stuff since the dawn of guns.
>it r old so must b gud
because oil was already there before lubricating grease was invented, idiot.
he's talking out of his ass, waxes and greases actually have a longer history than oil for lubrication. animal fats, bees wax and lignum vitae have been used for mating surfaces for thousands of years before we started producing oils in any capacity.
natural waxes and greases harden at low temperature. lubricating greases based on oil+thickeners are historically speaking a rather recent invention.
all petrochemicals are recent anon. natural oils will also harden, some are solid at room temperature, they also go rancid. any criticism in that regard for natural waxes and greases can also be applied to natural oils.
>natural oils will also harden
people obviously used oils which didn't harden at temperatures which they would encounter. whale oil was used for firearm lubrication for that reason. they would also expose the oil to cold temperatures and remove the parts solidified.
oil will slowly run down the surfaces, grease will stay where it is for months and years.
machine parts that go into storage are always greased and never oiled, nowadays you can buy great spray wax that is easy to work with.
a combination of oil and grease. i use red industrial grease (high temp bearing) and clp. clp for more intricate mechanisms, grease for simple sliding surfaces such as the op rod and op rod channel on an M1, or the rails of an AK. touch ups in the field are done with oil. clp also used for cleaning then grease reapplied after cleaning.
CLP is the wd-40 of firearm oils.
>works great
>stays wet
>cleans up with a paper towel and no scrubbing
>$20 a gallon
>red-dyed snake oil
>mystery oil
It's cum, isn't it?
It smells minty and good
No. I'm using WD-40 like any other human bean.
Why would I use anything else?
I use Armistol (some European ballistol equivalent) imbibed wipes. It works great to clean and lubricate at the same time.
WD-40 isn't a lubricant and doesn't protect well against rust, just saying.
>doesn't protect well against rust
It depends. I don't use it on my guns, but I do use it in my shipping container workshop as a cutting fluid on my milling machine, specifically because it's a shipping container so I have problems with rust due to humidity and condensation on every single metal surface whenever the temperature changes.
It does work to keep surface rust almost non existent.
If I lived in Thailand or something I'd consider it for sure.
don't use wd-40 on your machines except to blast old shit off. get some mobil vactra 2.
>WD-40 isn't a lubricant
uhhh
WD40's primary function is a Water Displacer; hence the "WD" in the name. It does provide some lubrication, but there are much better options.
this.
>be me in 1982
>on the bay in a boston whaler
>my dad finds and fishes out some old sims skateboard with green wheels
>dries it out, the bearings are frozen
>sprays wd-40 in the bearings
>gud'n'new
>we skate down a small hill everyday
>every day he sprays the bearings again
damn dad, you were dumb sometimes. should have used 3in1 instead.
wd40 is a thin mineral oil cut with 2 parts solvent.
the tiny amount of light oil that's left will actually evaporate within a few months, yes white oil does that
>yes white oil does that
all liquids doing that
yea but a heavy oil will take some years and rather gum up.
>rather gum up
only cheap mineral oils and plant based products
thats wishfull thinking. Oils are solvents, over time it will absorb weird shit it comes into contact with, only in a closed system it doesnt go bad.
"gumming up" is caused by evaporation and oxidation. neither is of concern if you get a fully synthetic olefin base oil.
boy i just use that numba 9
>not using semi fluid
you mean semen fluid.
this stuff works REALLY good.
buttery smooth, inherent EP properties, inherently high corrosion inhibition, fully synthetic base oil works across a wide temperature range, stable against oxidation, very mild scent.
best grease in thread 😉
Application is a pain using a brush and all, so I'm pretty lazy and just use oil most of the time.
> NLGI 1.5
How the frick do get a .5 in the NLGI scale? Anyway, I still prefer a 0 grease like lubriplate, but even that gets too thick down around 0F or so. I understand they have 00 greases for that, but at a certain point, I just leave those temperatures to Minnesotans or whoever.
Most important part is tackiness, less is better for guns
?t=183
I don't know about all that "tacky" stuff, but I haven't found an NLGI 2 grease yet that doesn't make my slide return to battery in slow-mo below freezing.
>How the frick do get a .5 in the NLGI scale?
directly between 1 and 2. Zero means its able to flow and 1 and bigger is holding its shape
Yes, but what substance is between tomato paste and peanut butter? This is the most important question.
Toothpaste
> Viscosity of various liquids:
> Peanut butter: 150,000 cPs
> Toothpaste: 70,000
> tomato paste: 8000
>Yes, but what substance is between tomato paste and peanut butter?
Type 4 or 5?
every morning I have a LARGE cup of strong coffee for that 4-6 express evacuation.
Im using a dildo to loosen it up
cold temperature performance is a function of the base oil. there are NGLI 1 greases which are greasy down to arctic winter temperatures.
>NGLI 1 greases which are greasy down to arctic winter temperatures
Neat. Are there any of them that aren't biohazard wunderchemicals?
sure. see
They're different lubes with different applications.
Grease works well on high friction metal to metal like the BCG cam pin surface, the bolt lugs, and trigger sear surfaces. It should not be used anywhere else.
T. Armorer, and a damn good one if I may say so myself.
>It should not be used anywhere else.
HOW DARE YOU!?!?!?!
Didn't you read the other posts? Grease is the best shit to lube your guns and if you don't think the same you're an idiot who parrots old opinions.
moron
>It should not be used anywhere else.
or else what? I greased my main spring, the pins, the magazine release, the bolt catch. will those now function any less?
They'll just be more difficult to wipe clean. It's not so much the individual part as it is the entire process of field cleaning and basic maintenance. If you're putting a super light coating of grease on your buffer spring, there's no issue there. But the bolt release, use caution because it can drip into the magazine. If a big glob drops in, that cartridge will carry it into the chamber where a few things can happen. But as before, if you're doing it lightly, it's more of an oil at that point anyway.
>grease
>drip
the whole point is it for not to drip. I have a thin, even film covering every place where moving parts come into contact.
>collects all dirt and debris
>turns into lapping compound
oil isn't a magic "sand b-gone" formula. clean your firearms after playing in the sand box.
Keep walking Black folk, this is a tetragrease board.
I've heard so much random stuff from everyone I don't know what to believe. I just use whatever I have at home which is usually Remoil/hopes/break free clp/ballistol for cleaning and or lube depending on if the product is a solvent or an oil. Did recently put some white lithium grease on my AK rails, bolt stem, and carrier bottom and hammer face to try that out since I haven't used grease at all before for a lube. We'll see how it goes.
Just ask yourself one single thing:
Why are there thousands of gun oils on the market but only a handful of gun greases?
I genuinely don't know. I figure maybe oil is easier to produce or just more popular because it's been around longer? Or maybe oil and grease are better for different environments/temperatures? I think I remember reading a thread where anons talked about one or the other being worse for colder climates. I'm just an average Joe gun owner anon. What's your opinion on it?
grease needs specialized equipment to produce. with oil you can just dump the ingredients into a container and stir a bit.
I use Z oil.
do your firearms have sumps and pumps? because engine oil is designed for continuous circulation.
>because engine oil is designed for continuous circulation.
Not entirely true, and a car goes through a more extreme wear environment in 15 minutes than a gun will in it's entire service life.
engine oil is fed under pressure directly (in)to the bearings, ensuring that there is a continuosly replenished oil film. deactivate your oil pump and tell me how that goes.
My preferred gun oil has gone through hundreds of millions of dollars of research and development.
I thought the common wisdom was
>If it rotates, oil it
>If it slides, grease it
At least that's the adage people use when talking about M1 Garands
Oh I should have read the thread,
is what I'm talking about. I use the same high temp red bearing grease in my M1 lol. Stuff is stinky
> i like to run the AR platform wet
if he increased the viscosity a bit he wouldn't need those ungodly amounts.
That's the stinky red bearing grease. I can smell this pic
the color indicates nothing beyond what color dye was chosen. the pictured grease is synthetic so it shouldn't have an intense smell.
This is just over kill. More likely to get it clogged with dirt and debris this way.
>clogged with dirt and debris
ffs this myth again. no, it won't get clogged just because it's over-lubed. the amount of dirt and debris that enters the inside of a firearm is independent of how much lube is in there.
some of it will get thrown off and probably collect in the fire control pocket. that won't magically clog either.
no one cares but i use this. i see people post about shooting in like -20f weather and ive never had a problem with this that cold.
Where do dry aerosol-based lubes fit into the equation?
years ago I asked Sphinx if dry lube was any good. they strongly advised against dry lubrication, having tested several variants with poor results.
I have some that I use on triggers. Or a little bit of this on the AUG trigger. I've also heard people say not to use anything on triggers. Not sure what the correct answer is, just happy the boy in the back here is designed to run lubeless.
>Military Grade
New word for "not military spec"?
I think "military grade" just means it's toxic or contains asbestos
Clever, military way to cut down the pension
the sear surfaces of firearms are usually designed to run dry and if you apply lube you might be changing the equation, potentially making it unsafe. more a concern for older firearms with eyeballed sear angles. modern firearms usually have positive engagement and will be drop safe whether the sear surfaces are lubricated or not. just check to be sure.
I apply grease. everything works nicer when greased.
Good point - especially the AUG which is known for become not drop safe if too much is done to try and make the trigger not dogshit.
Not the trigger exactly but I threw in an ALG ENHANCED milspec trigger in an AR with dry trigger pins and it would not reset on it's own. Have had a few ALG triggers before and they came wetter than dogshit. Pulled it out, oiled with whatever I had on hand and it's been functioning fine for a few years now. I now put my triggers in fairly wet. Just oil though so they have a film on every surface. The LaRue 2 stage does recommend grease on the sear surfaces though and comes with small dabs on all of them.
I've been putting dry lube on trigger springs and just a little bit of oil on the hammer face and sear for a while now, and it seems to work well. Grease instead of oil might make more sense for something seeing as much friction as the hammer.
I use TW25B.
Grease and oil are NOT interchangeable you absolute moron.
Show me one, just one, military armorer who greases an AR instead of oiling the correct lubrication points per TRADOC standards.
the military has to cater to a mass of dimwits. it's safer to just give them one product for all purposes and to tell them to regularly reapply it. you're not a dimwit, are you?
>the military has to cater to a mass of dimwits
OK fair point buddy, grease 'er up
how the frick do we know how many times people shit and pissed in a day in the 1600's?
Anne Frank style
Anybody know what the difference between universal and oil is with this stuff? I'm assuming just operating temp, oil is better in cold environments - but they don't even explain on their website. It just seems weird that they don't label "universal" as either oil or grease.
The only thing I still use oil on is revolver lockwork at this point
did you grease the grip panels??
Nah those are just glossy, replaced with pic related now, I just put a couple beads of grease on the rails and it's smooth as frick.
>MODEL OF THE 1911A1
I couldn't own this.
I use grease on my AK, and used to when i still owned a mini-14, I use oil for my AR's and my G36
>Not using angel piss
that stuff is a terrible lubricant, but excellent penetrating oil
also, it smells like it'll give you leukemia... because it will. I live in an old linen mill town, you gotta trust me when I say I recognize the distillate in that stuff. It causes leukemia.
>all these idiots debating wether to use oil or grease
>while I'm sitting here using only home made butter
Stay mad gays.
Run your gun as oiled as it can be without being saturated and dripping, clean often and reoil with whatever you have on hand or want to buy. It can be Dollar Tree motor oil or gucci shit promoted by doorkickers, it doesn't matter if you clean and reoil/regrease often. This shit reminds me of car owner forums where people will argue about what oil is best instead of just changing it often with whatever meets certification. You're not in the field and can't afford to do a quick cleaning of your gun, so that use scenario doesnt apply to you.
>Run your gun as oiled as it can be without being saturated and dripping, clean often and reoil with whatever you have on hand or want to buy
This is what I do minus the clean often part
If you use lots of oil, the oil washes the dirt and shit away
Grabbing my guns leaves your hands dirty and oily as frick because all the oil all over them
Cleaning guns is a meme (except 22s)
At most I will take a gun apart for service and wipe some parts down with a rag before soaking them in oil again
You only use grease on very specific parts/surfaces. It's not to be used everywhere and if you use it everywhere, youre gonna have a bad time.
I'm going to start using a small amount of grease on the rails on my short-stroke piston rifles. I've always oiled them, but they seem very dry every time I take them out to shoot. I live in an arid climate which might have something to do with it.
>if you use it everywhere, youre gonna have a bad time
elaborate. grease is just oil which has been thickened to not run off. under shear stress it returns into a liquid form and functions just like a plentiful oil film. the only detriment that could occur is when the grease is so thick that it hinders function, which is absolutely not the case when applying NLGI 1 to the mechanisms if a firearm because they are nit delicate mechanisms.
If you clean your guns regularly, grease.
If you don't, oil.
>not running your guns on dry lube
just doesn't work that well.
Your gun should be able to run totally dry. Lube is just to prevent wear and extend lifespan.
If you clean your guns regularly, oil.
If you don't, grease.
The duality of man
>Hardly any mention of the Turks used motor oil
I'm proud of you morons.
but
>Clenzoil
hoppes 9 bore cleaner is also a light oil, it's all I use and smells amazing.
>smells amazing
I would get scented candles that smell like this if they made it
>quit lubing like a NOOB, get GAMER GREASE
If you clean your guns regularly, grease.
If you don't, oil.
I don’t use grease, makes things way more of a pain in the ass to clean and it gets old going and buying cans of brake cleen after every range trip to blast all the bits out.
Oil is much better.
I just use white lithium grease. Seems to work fine.
lithium grease is basic b***h grease but works fine. calcium sulphate grease is better.
This is what I use. I’ve had this tube for like 7 years. A syringe and a light bead on the parts to create a thin film when the parts interact is all you need.
Hoppes elite to clean bore, chamber, and gas system. Eezox to clean parts. Redline grease on interacting metal surfaces (cam pin, bolt body inside the bolt carrier, trigger group, guide rails, etc etc.)
as per SDS:
<40 % PAO (great)
<15 % dewaxed petroleum destillates (meh)
10-14.9 % overbased calcium sulfonate (great)
"red moly" is probably red dye and plain old MoS2. marketing stunt.
all in all it should perform great because you can't go wrong with PAO + overbased calcium sulfonate. I personally am turned off by the "red moly" marketing but that won't reduce performance.
For me g96 is king and coom lube might be second after some more testing. Grease freezes solid here and even some oils are too thick (ex. Remoil). Dry lubes below -35
>For me g96 is king and coom lube might be second after some more testing
You know that the arctic oil Prototype getting shipped this autumn for winter testing? Turned out that Exxon hadnt denied my Sample, they lost the mails ;_;
>below -35
Doesn't that much cold just piss you off? Like, I know lobster mitts are a thing, but the loss of dexterity means they have to come off for fine motor skill work, and God damn I hate when my hands get that cold and start hurting.
Yeah at that point I'm using wool gloves inside mittens with a trigger finger. Cold turns into a real c**t at those temps, mechanical stuff really does not like to move/turn over. It's also a pain to keep your nose from getting too cold.
LMK when you get it sorted out.
I find the regular lube tends to rub off or evaporate after a few days. Seems like it's still lubing internals, but exterior stuff seems dry.
coom lube is so full of nano coom particles that it should effectively be a dry lubricant after the oil runs off.
That's what it seems like. I'm just concerned with corrosion protection and with typical oils I check if it's got any sheen at all, and if not apply a tiny amount to protect it.
Oils need some time to evporate off, mostly its rubbing of into cloths or farbic which also depends on the surface structure of the finish. Internal oils are more protected and tend to flow by gravity or getting hold by capilaric force between moving parts. Are you in the mail list?
Think so but I never got anything from you after the initial Amazon shenanigans
[email protected]
Just write me a mail,im sharing some info then 😉
nudes? :DDDDD
Sure, got some in the past 😉
send more. all lubed up.
Done
Regarding corrosion prevention, have you done any salt bath or exposure testing?
Im giving you the info within the mails 🙂
Im sitting on 1000L pure H1 grade PAOs from 10 up to 400 cSt. Depending on the viscosity they´re not evaporating over months and years, thats true. Also nice way to enjoy oil stains on stones for years,KEK
will I get doxed if I use my email with my name on it?
Lube is known to dox Anons, he's waiting until you left the house to frick your granny
>oils need some time to evporate off
high molecular weight oils like PAO or most synthetic esters won't evaporate in human timescales. with petroleum destillates you'll have a mix of different components and some will inevitably be volatile.
Can confirm g96 is the superior cold temp choice. Worked flawlessly in -19 F when ballistol and rem oil failed to feed.
I just buy new guns when they go dry.
reminds me of the boomer I met at the range with a tricked out precision rifle, but when I try it the bolt isn't smooth at all. he never lubed it, just left the factory oil on it. wirh his permission I applied a thin film of lithium grease and he couldn't believe how smooth it suddenly was.
Grease stays where you put it, oil gets all over the fricking place.
t. cognitively declining fudd
Grease is not appropriate for most firearm uses. You're an idiot if you put it on everything for every lube purpose.
>Grease is not appropriate for most firearm uses.
why not? and don't bother parroting fuddlore.
It doesn't flow, is too thick so it bogs down fast moving parts, and generally isn't appropriate for high temperatures or fast moving parts, both of which guns contain. And because it doesn't flash off like oil does, it collects particulates which then become an abrasive paste because the grease holds on to them more than oil, which allows debris to be blown away by gasses. It's appropriate for pins in shielded areas but nothing to do with slides or barrels and certainly not for rust protection.
What fuddlore?jgwmo
>muh abrasive paste
Bull
Shit
I feel like the only grease people are familiar with are #2 and thicker. I have a calcium thickend #0 grease that will run if it gets warmer than room temp. I have seen #00 greases that will migrate just like oil at anything warmer than freezing temps.
And no, anon. You're not going to get a lapping compound with a layer of most greases, not at any layer of contamination you and I are going to run into. Those particulates are floating a thickener/lubrication compound.
If you don't believe me, consider what gets put on pic related. Oil migrates. Sometimes that's what you want, like a trigger group, because frick getting even the thinnest grease down in there. Sometimes it isn't. Grease for when you want the lubrication to mostly stay put.
And for cleanup, shit like #0 and thinner gonright to liquid with even ballistol. I wish my oil paints thinned that easily.
>straight gears
how fast do those turn at I wonder?
Also, what happens after a rubber CV boot cracks?
Point me to the CV boot on any gun.
> How fast?
Probably not that fast. But the point is that oil migrates under gravity, and your pistol or rifle tends to be vertical quite often. If I want the lubrication to stay at the back of my rails, I use grease.
>Also, what happens after a rubber CV boot cracks?
Are you saying that you are worried that your slide or BCG reciprocates fast enough to sling grease off? If so, have no such fear. The only carbon/lead mess I get on me is when I don't get to all the oil that I used to clean the trigger group and it migrates with the goop down the trigger shoe due to the heat from the gun.
Im cleaning #1 and #2 by giving it a shot of WD40 and stiring with a brush. Gets liquid within 5s for wipe away
>It doesn't flow
not flowing when nothing is happening is the point. you do realize that grease liquifies under shear stress? of course you don't.
>is too thick so it bogs down fast moving parts
wrong. there are greases with different viscosities. also see answer to #1.
>and generally isn't appropriate for high temperatures
bullshit.
>or fast moving parts
bullshit.
>both of which guns contain.
in the grand scheme of things: not really. the working parts of guns are rather sedate.
>And because it doesn't flash off like oil does, it collects particulates which then become an abrasive paste
fuddlore bullshit. find me ANY PROFESSIONAL source on this piece of "gun guy" wisdom.
I've never had a problem with 5-30w
>motor oil
>more rust than degreased steel
gun smiths love this trick
>"motor oil"
>doesn't even specify viscosity grade or if its synthetic
>sprays the shit out of scrap metal with salt water
Guess I know what I should coat my guns with if case I operate on heavily salted roads.
Motor oil doesn't protect against rust, like at all. It's a medium temp, combustion lubricant
>WD40 better than oil and grease mix
Wait a second... are you trying to trick me? Maybe the oil dripped off or was pushed away by the water? WD 40 dries very fast but oil doesn't. Not saying you're wrong, but that some circumstance caused it to do worse.
when WD40 dries it leaves a pretty stable film which inhibits corrosion.
motor oil contains a lot of surfactants because its job is to suspend combustion byproducts (="fouling") and transport them to the oil filter. surfactants make it easier for water to wash away the oil film. that's why motor oil is a poor corrosion inhibitor vs. water spray. also makes it a decent cleaner.
>surfactants make it easier for water to wash away the oil film.
My synthetic grease and synthetic oil mix is 20/80 maybe it's time to up the grease content to 60/40. Works on my machine but I'm looking forward to your next batch of coomoil. I have a browning Xbolt and I want to see how it affects the bolt travel action.
If you want a secret hint, use hydraulic fluid instead of motor oil 🙂
Its not wrong, tested MO 3 times and everytime live on /k/. Synthetic or non-synthetic it gets directly BTFO. The result isnt that surprising when you look into the chemistry.
WD40 is evaporating solvent that flashs off, light mineral oil that still needs some time and a small amount sulfonate rust inhibitor(pretty evaporating resistant). There is no real content of chemicals pressent with hydrophilic character, so its not that bad to provide "some" protection. Motor oil contains near to no rust inhibitors, while the grease did. Motor oil contains alot of chemicals to protect the motor itself from carbon, dirt, water and foam by binding eveything until its getting filtered or evaporated somehow. These chemicals/detergents
arent fully hydrophobe and Im very sure that its the reason why its causing hard rust and kills the water protection from the grease. Its less than a water blocking barrier than the super thin layer of WD40. Check the results for WD40 long term rust inhibitor, that is kind of the same but the oil/sulfonate is changed into a classic rust protection formula for industrial usage.
>fully hydrophobe
Reported, racism has no place here.
germans cant be hydophile, Im sorry ;_: our god given politicians caused a energy crisis and now we should avoid showering. Come over and smell it
Coom more to make bigger batches of oil. At least twice a day.
ancient Romans cleaned themselves by covering themselves with oil and scraping it off with a strigil. maybe we should go back to that practice, but with coom.
I use clenzoil clp on every single one of my firearms
GIVE ME COOMGREASE !!!!!!!!
?t=305
my bolt turns and slides so do I oil or grease it? and if grease what's the cheapest shit I can buy
try both and you'll notice the difference.
for the cheapest solution, go to a hardware store and ask for the cheapest synthetic lithium grease without PTFE/Teflon.
Lubriplate on shit like Garands and slide rails. Breakfree CLP on everything else. I'll spray inside my MP5 receiver with white lithium grease though.
+1 Lubriplate. Use it on the M1 and M1A, bolt action lugs, 1911 rails, AR bolt carrier. CLP on the little parts.
>intended Use:
The grease covered by this specification is intended for use in the fabrication of rifles and other small arms only when such weapons are used under conditions of sustained rain. The temperature range under which this grease will be used is 2°C (35°F) to 38°C (100°F). This grease is not intended as a replacement for conventional oils under conditions other than sustained rain.
IMAO, greasetards BTFO
>nearly 50 years ago the use of a specific grease with poor cold temperature performance was discontinued
>thus grease bad
idiot.
Grease would make sense in any application that isn't being subject to combustion events and byproduct,
Which is the total opposite of a gun's internals.
Oil for use, grease for long term storage.
I wouldn't prefer engine oil either, though that's just nitpicking. A continuously rotating engine fed with filtered, pressure pumped oil is not the same environment physically or chemically as a weapon.
Stop being lazy and throw more lube in every 300-500rds. Stop being lazy and clean it out every 600-1000.
Only the best
Replace skub with your favorite oil, and then add a thickener for maximum conflict.
it's conspicuous that the "don't use grease because it will turn into grinding paste" wisdom is only found among gun guys, who are known to be very receptive to myths.
the military loves CLP because it's a one size fits all solution for a huge number of people who usually do a lot more cleaning than shooting.
MIL-L-46000 lubricant, semi-fluid is a grease in US military use
>intended for use in automatic weapons systems and accessory equipment operating in severe environments and conditions where thin film and extreme pressure lubrication are encountered
apparently the magic "turns abrasive" property vanishes as soon as it isn't in the hands of the regular grunt.
Besides the M2 it's only used on rotary guns. I'm sure it's very relevant to small arms.
so what's with the abrasiveness? do the fairies who turn lubricating grease into grinding paste avoid M2s?
It will if not cleaned in a long enough interval. If you're cleaning your guns regularly it's likely not an issue. Non of you grease gays have given any reason as to why anyone should bother using grease over oil in the first place.
you should use both, because they both have applications. not everything is all or nothing you BPD zoomer morons
Show me the manual for one firearm you own that says to use grease.
>Hardmode: No pre-1950's military rifles
>COPYRIGHT MIL-COMM PRODUCTS COMPANY INC
IMAO, thats a DIY instruction to sneak into the military for shekels
my AR-15 manual advises against grease, explicitly because it will supposedly harden in the cold and cause malfunctions. clearly they know the average firearms customer is borderline moronic and can't be trusted to choose a grease with a lower operating temperature limit of -100 °F, like this
: No pre-1950's military rifles
>show me one firearm
>not these because the only guns that people own are glock and ar 15. I've already explained in detail here my process for selecting lubricants for each firearm.
>It will if not cleaned in a long enough interval
so will oil. so how is this a reason to not use grease?
>Non of you grease gays have given any reason as to why anyone should bother using grease over oil in the first place.
the #1 reason to use grease over oil is because it stays were you put it and if you put it where it's needed it will lubricate better for longer.
Yes anon you figured it out. All these years gun manufactures have been recommending oil which just drips away from where you put it and along the answer was grease. Get S&W, Glock and Beretta on the phone. They'll make you rich when you tell them about this discovery of yours!
All three of those ship their firearms with grease applied to them.
Glocks ship with copper paste on the rails.
>copper paste
That's copper grease anon.
LSA was the standard grease on everything, including the M16
Grease the parts that slide
Oil the parts that rotate
A few times a year
Done
I actually would like to know if anyone has ever suffered a failure on their firearm that is directly attributable to the failure of whatever lubricant they were using? I've tried everything from fricking tap magic to braycote 601 and it doesn't seem to matter.
Only one I can think of is short strokes and FtEs from burning off all the lube on a BCG while working on talking guns. In that case, the damn thing was so hot, I'm pretty sure it burned off any and all ballistol I had on the thing.
A grease on the BCG might not have burned off, but any oil with a higher boiling point (or whatever the applicable term is) than mineral oil would have also worked.
http://pdf.textfiles.com/manuals/FIREARMS/sig_550_551.pdf
time to oil up oilchads. greaseballs need not apply.
better lube up that rosetta, oil boy.
Any reason not to use this stuff? Ceramics like coomlube, massive temperature range, and should be around the right thickness.
A few reasons. The msds usualy shows direct information about the base stcok viscosity, extrem high viscosity and even worse mineral based means that its getting extremly stiff very soon in the cold. The other rason is the usage field. Brake Parts needs to be water resistant and very tacky which isnt what you want tbh. The temp range isnt special, syntheic oils (PAO;PEG..) are always at -50°F and below and the max heat rating is cringle AF. Only snake oil sellers use the decomposition temp of the ceramics to hide the real Flash Point of the oil. Based on the strange information on the msds and sds I would say CA-Soap Complex with a 200-300cSt non-synthetic mineral oil, very small amount of ceramics (may some SiO2) and some color to look nice (purple).
My revolver guts will be smooth forever.
Where do I get proper Schweizer Automattenfett? I got an SG55x recently and basic b***h oil won’t cut it anymore. They gun did come with a tube of the stuff but I don’t see it anywhere else for sale other than used surplus tubes of the stuff.
for me, it's krytox 205g0.
>it separates
how am i supposed to trust this? if it separates in the bottle it'll separate in the gun.
How the frick have you used half that bottle? The shit has only been available for like 3 months. You are overlubing your shit like crazy bro.
when you apply a thin film the solids will adsorb to the metal surface where they are needed.
Its getting pressed on the steel when racking the slide and everything beside that isnt part of the lubrication process. Non lubricating oil can separate, its just there to prevent rust
that's not how it works. the oil doesn't separate into diffetent oil fractions. the solids settle. the oil provides fluid film lubrication, a cushion of liquid which separates the sliding metal surfaces. when the metal surfaces come into contact despite said fluid film, either because the load is very high or because the surfaces are very rough, the solids still prevent direct metal to metal contact and cold welding because they won't flow away.
This means a micro layer wont do the same as oil filled inside a bottle? Shit is complicates
it will, but the solids have to settle on the surface to do their thing anyway.
Should have used clenzoil, dumbfrick.
coom lube is supreme.
grease lads, I need your help. what small container for touch ups in the field is the most practical?
Something along the lines of pic related, this one is a 10ml so you may want to look for something larger or with a larger gauge applicator needle that can push the grease through.
I just realized lubebro embezzled 20k € of prize money from DOW to fulfil his dream of swimming in coom.
They closed the DOW reseach lab in B-W, only the analysis department is running to check the insulating material production and the epoxy. Kind of sad, empty labs and fully deactivated
>camel
?
https://www.spiesser.de/jugend-gruendet/spielend-zum-erfolg-mit-jugend-gruendet
That shit was a economy competition, I have no clue what they do now because I hate economics so much I switched the course into physics because its wasted lifetime tbh.
I still haven't figured out what happened to the camel.
lubebro, care to explain?
hey lubedude, while you're here: what readily availabe product contains PAO and not much else? I want to make a PAO-based grease a bit thinner without adding lots of unknowns.
I can send you pure PAO if you´re living in germany, only source for pretty pure oils are hydraulic fluids. Try to find something in that class, otherwise it should be good if its a synthetic glycol/PAO blend
how much can you spare?
I can send you a few bottles, more than enough to deal with grease. Want rust inhibitor concentrate?
what rust inhibitor exactly?
Ca-Sulfonate and Esteroxidat, would dissolve it in PAO8 (50%). 3-4% for any kind of fat/oil is more than enough
ahyo leg mir was bei wenn du das CS80 bekommen hast.
XS 80
Klar, schicke dir auch 80°C Hartwachs 🙂 Bin mir sicher du bekommst einen geilen Rostschutz für die Lappentränkung hin. Wachs wird ins PAO eingeschmolzen, erst nach dem Abkühlen kommt Rostschutz dazu.
Store bought clp. We can also stop pretending that this choice matters for most of us