Good morning sirs.
I have had a solar system in my home for a few years. Over this time I have replaced most of my devices with ones that can run off of the DC.
Pretty much everything has been replaced except for a few devices I have not quite nailed down a solution for.
I think the refrigerator is fine just being on the inverter, but I really want to find a solution for my oven.
I currently have a 120v countertop oven, its a bit bigger than a microwave in size. I will be installing four 300w 12V heating elements into it, while leaving the original electrical intact, so I can run the oven off of either power source.
the elements are the simple part but I am not sure about controlling it, since I want to maintain some thermostat control.
Can I use one of picrel to switch 100A on and off or will it explode?
with this I will install a rocker to switch the built in controls between controlling the 120v side and controlling this solenoid over 12v.
it seems simple enough to me that it just might work
They make those in many power ratings
What part number are you looking at?
I would want one oversized by a good margin depending on how long you will be using the oven at any given time
well that one in the pic is 150A continuous, but I cant find a rating for the breaking.
my concern is if it will hold up to breaking and connecting a 100A resistive load. Or really connecting 100A and breaking probably 140A due to sag.
I can get bigger ones but I'm not sure if I need to be looking at something entirely different
>have had a solar system in my home
wow, must be a pretty big house! How many planets?
Seems like your house would implode due to either various gravitational forces or due to the vacuum, if the immense heat of the star didn't cause a fire
Good morning sirs
Thanks for the info I will monitors this
The other thing you should be aware of is the cycle lifetime. If you’re connecting the thermostat to this contactor, and it has a cycle time of, say, 1 minute, at 100k contacts that’s like 3 months worth of continuous use.
I assume you’re aware you have to run 2 GA wire to this thing, eh? This is like car battery jumper cable thickness, and you’ll still suffer losses.
Good luck to you!
this is the word to search for for relays this size - they wont be cheap - a quick look on digikey is like $40
>you have to run 2 GA wire to this thing
yeah op you are going to go broke just buying copper - it would have been cheaper to buy an inverter than all this dicking around
ahh yes, so you're going from solar light to about 12 volt DC, then converting to 120 volt AC, then converting that to heat
sounds incredibly inefficient
no, actually converting the sun into about 20-120vdc at the pv side to 12v at rhe battery side to then heat
More like 350 mcm cable. 2ga might work if it was about a meter from the battery
Get 4 individual switches and switch them individually, no thermostat. You‘ll go crazy from the switching sounds of a thermostat switching a 100a contractor unless you give it like a 20f hysteresis, and at that point it isn’t very useful for an oven. A contactor that switches 100a multiple times per hour really wont be gentle on your house electronics
Just give it 4 settings and estimate what temperature is which setting
I have decided to instead use ten 10v batteries in series.
I plugged in the oven and it was working, but went bang when I turned it off.
I think I will require a contacter still and a new timer switch
Also I will need a new solar charger for 120vdc but thats okay and I can use my current charger to convert 120 to 12v.
the switching contact abuse of DC is much worse than AC. most relays will have a pretty low DC voltage rating. the bang could have been an arc. becareful with those higher voltages.