Freedom lover here. I have taken the wagopill and they seem to be a lot easier to use than wirenuts. I'm not convinced that they are better electrically because it seems that the contact area has to be much smaller, but I'm sure tests were performed and were passed.
The point of this thread is that I use them a lot in testing so I connect and disconnect them frequently, and when I'm done with some for a while they have the levers open like one in the pic. I worry that doing this for an extended period might weaken the spring mechanism, but I have not seen any warnings anywhere about this. So is it a bad idea to leave them open like that? If not, it's wasted effort to close them when you have to open them again to use them.
How bout no
Second question. When should I use this type instead of the other type. They're both official Wago products but they seem kinda identical in function.
You dont
Both are UL rated for low voltage (up to 600V) so, they are interchangeable, really. The 221 is a more recent design, and the clear plastic helps dimwitted sparkies see if strands are not bunched up.
Unless I'm missing something, the 221 has 300V stamped on it while the older model is 600V.
You use these in a fire alarm panel.
The others are for AC work
No you use these in a fire panel, a real tech would be using din rail and terminal blocks. These are actually pretty great for junction boxes in the field but still if you got the room do it properly
you use the other kind when you want something smaller, easier to operate and newer.
you use the other kind when its all you have left
this is just the old version of
the new one is better in every option, smaller, clear for quick inspection, higer voltage, higer temperature range, bigger wire gauge range, holes for mesuring on both ends. and (way better for the fingers if you have to install many. <- my reason to use them)
the old one is still made because its rated for conections between copper/aluminum conductors (with special paste)
for solid conductor house stuff that goes into the wall and is usualy never touched again i prefer the 2273, even smaller quicker to install, cheaper
I hate undoing those so much
this one specifically is made for cramming, hence the rounded shape
that shit is just an obsolete, bulky version of the first one posted. you can still find it in stores because ~~*someone*~~ wants to get rid of it.
wago still makes it actually because there rated for conections between copper and shitty aluminium wire.
you need to fill them with some ground alumininium/antiseize paste to. not sure why they didnt get the new ones certified for such connections to.
these ones are not for opening with your teeth, otherwise it doesnt matter...
>The point of this thread is that I use them a lot in testing so I connect and disconnect them frequently,
That's about the only real good use for them that I can see. Might have to order some up wiring up temporary stuff and bench testing it.
>leave them open like that
I believe that the point of the lever is to push down on the wire, so leaving it up when unused is its natural relaxed state. What I mean is that the lever does not spread the contacts apart when opening.
>I believe that the point of the lever is to push down on the wire,
Nope. When closed on a wire, whether large or small, the lever moves freely for at least 10 degrees.
Here's an official Wago video of the original type: https://youtu.be/-PfN_wwkujQ?si=Nk0VagkcC9pii4W7&t=34
and a video of the 221 internals: https://youtu.be/6l-MchxGt70?si=Ftn4T6Atp29WDW1j&t=61
That's pretty neat. I'm going to have to get into those. I use nuts, and they are kind of destructive but how often is one going to disconnect and reconnect?
The big advantage I can see is when working with old aluminium wiring. I bet these are rated for those, and the clear 221's allow you to check your work. I can reuse existing runs and stub them into copper pigtails into the outlet box. It's an old place and they aren't about to replace all the wiring.
A 90 piece variety kit is $42 on Amazon.
(OP)
Spring connectors have been out fora long time. For repeated use/testing, I just bought a pack of picrel.
Using the same ones for years now.
They work better than wagos, too. No lever.
I always have a mains cord hand with these things on the end for testing lamps, fans, transformers, motors, EMF filters, etc.
For more permanent connections I use wire nuts.
I had a appliances that would burn through wire nuts occasionally (dishwasher with heating elements) and melt through them, so one day I soldered them and heat shrank it and never had the problem again.
>wirenut
they are called marettes
>wirenut
>they are called marettes
It's spelled Marrettes.
my grandpa called them dog's wieners
Thanks for the info, Dog wiener Jr.
Guess wirenuts could be called hairy balls instead. In or what? Could be rich.
I installed a new above-stove light fixture for a lady a few weeks ago and they came with 3 of these guys. Not going to lie, they were frickin nice. The next time I have to frick with one electrical box, I probably won’t go out and buy the wagos, but I would consider picking up a bunch if I’m at Home Depot picking up supplies for a new project that’s going to require >1/2 dozen wire bunches.
Saw some assortments on Amazon that look tempting, but I’d rather snag some at Home Depot or CES and ask if it’s code before I burn down a house.
Why wouldn't it be Code if it's UL listed and been around for years? They are clearly better than nuts, but not as cheap or indestructible. If anything, nuts being Code feels like a grandfathered thing.
Well I installed the last ones because they came with the damn light so I figured they were good enough for that application. Amazon parts for a <$10k car? I’ll give it a shot if it’s not a critical part. But a $450k house… I don’t want to take my chances on Chinesium so I tend to replace parts with whatever was used before, hoping the previous work was done correctly.
The wagos are relatively new, at least in the US. If they’re code and become more common, I’ll probably use them more in the future. But I have yet to take an outlet cover off or open a junction box to find anything besides wire nuts, or possibly electrical tape if it was hacked together by a dumb boomer DIYer. I trust those wagos more than I trust wire nuts, but I hesitate to use something in an electrical box that I have only really seen mentioned on PrepHole.
tl:dr;
I’m open to using them more once I see them used somewhere other than PrepHole.
>I’m open to using them more once I see them used somewhere other than PrepHole
Have you tried looking anywhere other than PrepHole?? lel
Spoiler alert: they're code, but they're more expensive than wirenuts if you need lots of them, there's lots of counterfeits on amazon and elsewhere, and they make a lot of boomers or electricians mad because its not what they were taught
why would anything need to be to code if its just going to sit around unused in a garage gathering dust
Because on the off-chance I actually use one of them on an electrical application and the shit burns down the house, at least my homeowner’s insurance policy won’t deny covering it because I did the work with some bullshit connectors that robots on a Scandanavian Spearfishing Blog recommended to me.
I’ve looked at thousands of wire nuts fricking everywhere and can’t remember seeing a wago anywhere in a real world application up until I installed that LED under cabinet fixture.
I agree that I’m sure it’s mostly stubborn boomers with wire nuts, but if it’s been up to code for a decade, I’m surprised I haven’t seen more. Not like I’m a sparky so it’s not like I’m in dozens of boxes a day, but still surprising you don’t see them more with the ease.
I would definitely go with brand name Wago or Ideal stuff if I were using it on 120V mains stuff or 240V, but even then some of the Amazon postings make me wonder. Like picrel isn’t cheap, still 50¢ per connector, but the”Peppy Products” assuming that’s actually on the package, is that a parent company and genuine? It looks a bit like a Chinesium storefront.
Maybe Wago is a Yuro brand and this is some repackager for Amazon? Still seems iffy to the point where I might want to spend a couple bucks more somewhere else but not get a cool little homeowner DIYer assortment box.
They have better reviews than most Chinesium tho
> lever nuts
In no way are these “nuts”
In addition, the lever is unnecessary (and undesirable) in a so-called permanent connection.
I suspect it was added to get around patent infringement, but it certainly captivated zoomers that never knew outlets and terminals were sold with push-in connectors for 50 years or so.
Since it’s a permanent connection, you need a screwdriver to undo them.
>In no way are these “nuts”
neither are wirenuts, moron-- they're actually legumes.
wago patented push in conectors in the 50s.
and europe uses pic rel wago 273 push ins since the 70s the
is the new version of it.
the lever things are great because they have a huge range of wire gauge and you can use stranded, fine stranded or solid conductors, which you cant with push ins.
> all kinds of crazy wires
For residential electrical work in NA, 80% is 14 awg wire. 15% of the remainder is 12 Awg. The problem wagos solves is an insignificant squirt of piss in the ocean. And it’s solved with marettes already at 1⁄20 of the cost, with better ratings.
Push ins are for permanent installation and lever style is great for connecting lamps because they often have stranded wire internally.
I’ve put in thousands of 6 and 4 inch ceiling lights, LED and incandescent. And retrofits. They always come with marrettes and that’s what you’re supposed to use, and what they were tested with UL and or CSA.
Don’t over think it and scrounge around on the internet for a recessed light that you’re not going to be ever disconnecting or moving.
think of it from the euros perspective
you live in a world were wire nuts are not allowed and you can decide between a push connector or pic. hard choice lel, i cant even grasp how many house fires these connector blocks caused
wire nuts aren't banned in europe they simple aren't used because of how shit they are.
you get much more feedback tightening a screw terminal i would suspect far fewer fires are caused with them vs nuts.
>i would suspect far fewer fires are caused with them vs nuts
If not executed perfectly, especially on high load circuits, they come loose over the course of decades, even on Din rail parts like contactors or motor breaker, solid core and screw terminals are a shit combination.
Wire nuts are legal in europe but they suck so no one uses them.
The biggest disadvantage with wire nuts is that there is no way to check everything is ok.
Transparent push ons dont have that issue and it is possible to check if the connection is made correctly
Where I live solid core wires can only be found in stuff older than the 70s, which do tend to get loose and burn sockets
Everyone else uses stranded wire and pic related, with ferrules being used only at the breaker box
We also have marrettes like that, with a screw terminal instead of a spring. These are ultra deluxe versions. I used those on my own home. They are for high-vibration environments. Picrel.
Just because it’s clear and you can see the uncontacted end means pretty much nothing.
Remember those clear Apple Mac computers? “Oh, I can immediately see why it’s not booting because it’s clear”
It’s shocking the wago reliability is so bad that they all have to be inspected every week by a trained, unionized, technician.
This marketing bullshit and false sense of security is another reason wago and wago-like connectors should be immediately and universally banned.
You can see the blank copper wire touch the metall inside the wago.
You can see if the connections are made properly before you close the conduit box.
You cant do that with wire nuts.
Nice pic. Ok, it’s nicking the wire there. You can’t reuse that anyway, and it’s making a point contact which will get hot at that point and degrade/oxidize faster on an accelerating rate.
I think the clear was probably to save money on pigment, and the marketing team spun it into inspectability.
Like I said before, all switches and outlets for 14 awg all come with the same push-in connector in north america. We don’t usually use them.
Also, to fix a bad connection, you just push it a bit, then tug it and it will cut into the copper some more.
With marrettes, the connectivity is like 20 times better. First, the wires are pre twisted, so the stand alone as a good, solid mechanical and electrical connection.
See those little dents in the wire? Those are caused by the marrettes biting in with it’s little spring.
I think 20 times is being conservative, it’s probably 100 time better.
> but what if it’s done improperly?
So, If I do a house using wagos, I will lacquer all the ends so when they are pushed in they will look great through the inspection window yet make no contact whatsoever, and they’ll be banned forever.
Inspectability is so wonderful, I’m surprised the EU hasn’t mandated video cameras in every junction box so they can be monitored 24/7.
The real reason wagos are in the EU is nationalism. Don’t worry, US also has more than there fair share of that bullshit, but not for electrical connectors.
meds.
>solid core wires can only be found in stuff older than the 70s
Spot the britgay.
I have only seen stranded used in bodge jobs from the 70s here. Solid core is standard all over Europe.
>Spot the britgay.
what the frick are you talking about
uk domestic fixed wiring is typically solid core until 6mm2
flex is of course typically stranded.
there is nothing to stop you using flex in your walls other than cost.
if you twist strands it will go into a push terminal
>wire nuts are not allowed
https://www.gamma.nl/assortiment/handson-lasdop-universeel-15-stuks/p/B122772
balkanker
It's ul listed whatever
I've only seen these in a brand new walk-in cooler i put up they were in the light switch that also went to the door heater. I talked to the rep for the manufacturer and he said they started using them because they have a lot of women on the production line and they could get the wire nuts tight enough and we're falling of sometimes so they switched to these. So if your a lady or a soft gayot that can't twist a wire nut hard enough these are probably right up your alley probably why you never see them in the field is because most electricians are men.
My boss uses them but only for testing and temporary connections, which should be the only uses.
I like them for prototyping because they don't chew up the wires so much. One of the few well engineered German inventions
Don't buy electrical products on Amazon. You'll get chinesium counterfeits and burn down your house
>Don't buy electrical products on Amazon. You'll get chinesium counterfeits and burn down your house
This. Amazon even lets those guys claim to be the Wago store. Criminal.
Or maybe you're an idiot.
I use them for light switches. I always electric tape the levers closed so they cant open when im shoving everything back in the box.
That might work, light switches are rated for under a third of the amperage.
Although, It’s rare that I put a connector in a light switch box… so you’re doing something wrong there fundamentally.
Some of the new fancier switches and dimmers just have wires coming out of the unit so you have to conect them like that. I thought it was weird too.
Don't cheap out. The Wago ones are high quality and have excellent grip. The chinkshit you get elsewhere is mostly crap and will randomly fail or weaken over time. as for the grips themselves, their resting position is with the levers down, which is how they are shipped.
If you have wires that need coupling frequently, they are a great choice.
Springs left under high tension for long periods will always fatigue, but I'm sure the connectors are engineered such that it's not going to completely frick them. Still, it's always better to store them closed.
Absolute moron. Bet you also think springs in loaded magazines "wear out" just sitting around
>Absolute moron. Bet you also think springs in loaded magazines "wear out" just sitting around
well the mechanics at work always get pissed of if you dont set the torque wrench to zero after using it claiming the spring wears out and it gets inacurate.
Ill stick with twisting the wires and installing a nut.
If it works don’t fix it. These are for lazy fricks with more money than sense. In 5 years when someone goes to fix a circuit theyll be cussing whoever used these hokey dog shit connectors
>These are for lazy fricks with more money than sense
they're faster and more economical than wirenuts in areas where labor is expensive.
> cussing whoever used these hokey dog shit connectors
You're the ignorant and fearful boomer mentioned earlier in this thread
Cool story bruh
Really goes to show your skill level that you try to talk shit about serviceability when these are clearly far superior to any other alternative, especially wirenuts.
> maybe serviceability
No.
(1) Any electrician will be cutting off the wire nuts, and cutting off the push-ins. There’s no time to frick around with that shit.
(2) the standards for remaining wire length is 6" (not including slack/loop left behind the box) will last for hundreds of years of maintenance because the standard was based on solder and tape—which you just cut off anyway.
(3) we don’t re-use old exposed copper connections anyway, under any circumstances because they are often oxidized, nicked, or otherwise mutilated, and we are working in a fricking dank and dark crawl space, and can’t break out the microscope to examine the surface of every pre stripped wire (which we always safely assume was a blithering idiot anyway… just as a precaution)
By the time you spent $200 just to get me to show up, I will definitely just chop out whatever outlet or switch and give you a new one—they probably need to be replaced anyway and the cost me (you) $1.00.
How the frick is it more difficult to unclip wago than untwisting fricking wire nuts, you delusional boomer frick
Gardner Bender has had push-in connectors for a while already. They're like the 273 though, so they do not have levers and are tricky to use with small stranded wires.
>tricky to use with small stranded wires
Are you fricking moronic? Wago specifically says push ins don't work with stranded wire. Why you think knockoff wagos would work with them I have no idea.
What about if you tin them with solder???
Then it's a solid core but softer than copper. Could work, I guess stranded won't work in push ins because it'll just bend and maybe half the strands will make it in.
That's the point. If you fill your pockets with push-ins and show up to a job where all the connections are with stranded wire, you're going back to the van to pick up plain old wire nuts. Why are you so angry? Do you always feel the need to berate people who are willing to engage in conversation with you?
>Why are you so angry?
Take your delicate flower petals back to redit.
I'm still voting for Wago.
Recently bought a bunch of such connectors from aliexpress, both lever and push.
They work great and are a lot cheaper than Wagos.
Don't know if I trust them for household wiring yet but they're nice for working on my car.
Some guy tested Wago against knockoffs, Wago are better quality (as expected) but the cheap ones still exceed normal rating:
causing an electrical fire on automotive application is orders of magnitude more likely than on mains shit
and a current test is moronic, the most important metric on connectors is how the plastic will hold up after aging 40 years
All plastic connectors(or anything plastic really) fail with enough UV and heat exposure[specfically heating and cooling cycles].
its really eye opening seeing how americans respond to any kind of innovaion or change in electrical space.
majority of europe the electrical code is simply a tool which allows the electrician to do his job safely.
it seems the american code is a rigid doctrine passed down by god, its enigmatic dogmatic so specific as to bind the electricians hands.
no doubt some very powerful corps standing to make a lot of money were involved.
The NA electrical code is very flexible—it’s the *minimum* safe legal standard. It still allows solder and tape which is still the gold standard.
No (or not many, unless they’re a piece of shit) electricians use the push-in connectors on every outlet. Maybe if you’re doing a hotel, and it’s the last day, and you’re gonna be fined $10,000 a day for every day you’re late….
We always use the screw terminals if we can, time has told us it’s a more reliable, inspectable, and higher current-carrying, less susceptible to vibration failure than the push-ins.
When getting something inspected like boutique listed lighting they will ask about the connectors e.g. “did you use the connectors it came with?” And the correct answer is “yes” — conveniently thats also the easiest thing to do.
I’ve only seen those terminal blocks in cheap chinese appliances (like vacuum cleaners) when I’ve cracked them open to try and fix them.
I’ve never seen them in any north american thing or system. The NA standard is picrel, and you have to crimp-on lugs on the wire. Also the euroblocks are made from this shitty soft and buttery plastic, the NA terminal block is bakelite.
For stranded wire and wagos, I assume you’re supposed to crimp on a pin of some kind, but homeowners will just stick in stranded wire and think that’s great.
This is another reason why these should be universally and permanently banned.
>these should be universally and permanently banned.
Oh boy, I hope you never look at how the big wires coming into your main breaker box are attached...
I was talking about wagos, not terminal blocks. We have 3-conductor aluminum wire running into households. I pray homeowners don’t mess with it.
>but homeowners will just stick in stranded wire and think that’s great.
the main selling point of spring contacts is they work with stranded wire which is a huge time saving. every fricking piece of automation equipment these days comes with push in style connectors.
This debate only happens on the residential level, industry moved on two decades ago
Ok, I looked it up, and the 12 awg (orange) wago is actually rated for fine stranded wire. Which is fascinating.
Although here in NA technically things like lighting often have fine stranded (and/or tinned and/or plated) wire … using marrettes on them does seem a bit iffy to me. Again, on my own house, I soldered them so I wouldn’t have to worry about it. I also used full aluminum enclosures for similar reasons (in case some tard finds an old 100 W incandescent instead of a 2 W LED).
In 2024, the code got updated so you can use 10 A circuits, probably for lighting.
Learn to ferrule, fren. Once you master that simp,e process, you’ll never look back.
>The NA electrical code is very flexibel
>When getting something inspected...And the correct answer is “yes” — conveniently thats also the easiest thing to do.
mlfao you dont know what your talking about
>I assume you’re supposed to crimp on a pin of some kind
you dont know what your talking about
once in a blue moon a shower connector will stop working because it wasnt fitted correctly. house fires because of screw terminals you can count on one hand. might be much more to do with usa having wimpy voltage and sky high supply impedance so ocp is out the window.
americans have house fires from loose plugs and then they try to tell others how to do electrics lol. frick off.
>very flexible
>oi m8 better install bullshit AFCI breakers that cost 1000% more than regular ones because in a textbook theory environment it might prevent 30-50 house fires a year, optimistically
> AFCI
Hahaha… completely agree. This is largely a scam. Even GFCI and those safety outlets with shutters (that you can never seem to force in, in the dark, contorting your body to reach behind an entertainment center) are largely scams.
I often wonder what the next one will be.
It would have been better to ban cheap electrical chinese toys with fake listing stickers that start arcing, for starters. They you wouldn’t need AF detectors.
>NA electrical code
No such fricking thing.
Local AHJ has the last word. You can bet your sweet ass that if the city inspector shows up and sees those terminal blocks stuffed in your electrical panel or a fricking solder and tape connection in your device boxes, he's going to ask you to justify it or he's going to fail you. He's going to cancel all his other appointments and turn every single stone he see.
This is why I have yet to stick the things in any outlets in my home. As useful as they seem, I will be hesitant to use them until I start opening boxes around here and see that a sparky who came before me has actually been using wagos. Have yet to see them installed IRL yet besides the light fixture that came with the wagos already installed from Home Depot.
Your local inspector is a moron then.
Don’t worry, there’s lots of them.
The problem is, that inspectors—over time—don’t know or forget their primary job function, and start thinking that the *minimum* requirements, which is what the code usually specifies, is THE ONLY way to do it, so they fail you because they are stupid, lazy and/or ignorant and have no business being in their business. I’m lucky, most of the inspectors in my area are old guys who can even tell me what’s coming up in city electrical codes because they read up on the meeting minutes and know what cities our city copies most of our shit from.
> NA electrical code.
I was speaking generally. If you’ve read Canadian and U.S. codes, they’re very similar. But you obviously haven’t read them and have no ability to generalize. Metric fricktonnes of electrical shit in Canada is made in the U.S.A.
You don't seem to get it. You can pull all the code books you want, NEC (by NFPA) or CEC, if your AHJ has beef with it, you'll either go down with a fight or comply and do what they tell you. It has nothing to do with unions or limiting freedoms, and everything to do with people not wanting to rubber stamp egregious or unorthodox stuff. Your AHJ might fail you because you ran nothing but conduit over the surface of walls, or because you put a commercial gas range even if it was plumbed all according to the UPC. Why? Because your house is not a Costco store.
Also you got it the other way around: a lot of electrical gear is designed and manufactured in Canada. Iberville, ABB, Siemens... The US has the advantage of having so much shit that's fricked up that the NFPA underwriters can write a metric ton of reports every year on how things should not be done.
> Can get failed for egregious stuff
Certainly, nobody is disagreeing with you. I’ve failed for doing procedures in the wrong order, or sending in photos which was fine with with one, but not fine with another and they got angry for some reason. We’re talking about connectors, not plumbing though.
> there are things made in canada
I know that. I’m one of the Marrette promulgators. See picrel. The point was that I see a lot of U.S. made stuff because the electrical codes are so similar, and it probably starts with the fact that the voltages are the same.
Note, however, that Robertson was bought by berkshire hathaway and moved to china. Just like that Heintz tomato ketchup/land grab scam.
… and, I wasn’t promulgating the use of those terminal blocks at all. I was merely contrasting them with the euro-blocks, which everyone agrees are pretty horrible I think.
I don’t think Britannians benefited from being so close to Zheng and using basically the same residential voltage.
these are superior in every way to wire nuts, that's just a fact. they will take forever to catch on though because trades are dominated by boomers who have done it a certain way for decades and don't see a reason to change now. wire nuts work and they don't get callbacks. why fix what isn't broke?
I agree. I work on ships where wire nuts are illegal.
Lever locking wagons fricking RULE for low voltage lighting and switch work.
Shove your wire nuts up your ass. Your push-ins too…push them IN.
For motor controller control circuits, I’d use a din rail and terminals. Or the old school crimp-on forked spade and Bakelite terminal strips, (if room in the bucket allows).
>they seem to be a lot easier to use than wirenuts
That's why they're used. They're straight-up inferior to wire nuts when both are uses properly, but that's the problem. It's way easier to make a poor connection with wire nuts. Not "easy", really, but "easier".
Bongland being Bongland, however, a handful of drunk electricians didn't twist everything together properly, burned some shit down, and then the nanny state...banned them I think? I can't be bothered to look up whether they're outright banned or just not preferred, but still.
can I trust a bunch of wago connectors on a trailer that sees heavy snow in the winter? do they make an automotive version?
I work on trailers for side work. These are titts
Stuff with dielectric grease (use applicator), wipe clean and wrap with tape. If necessary, use self-fusing tape. Never worry about it again.
I prefer using wire nuts, but I bought a bag of wagos to use to extend wires that previous dumbass electricians cut back so far that it's impossible to twist them together anymore.
> I'm not convinced that they are better electrically because it seems that the contact area has to be much smaller
FWIW I have a 9kw 3 phase water heater that's wired with wago clips. When I had it plugged into a 3 phase outlet the connection got dangerously hot, but not when it was hard wired using the clips.
On 400V that's just over 20 amps total, nothing they can't handle. I'd still check the plug for broken strands if I were you.
> 400 V
Dang… I was hoping to see what an 8 awg wago lever connector looks like.
Apparently the 221 series is available in two sizes, the larger of which goes up to 10awg.
It's literally just larger, nothing more to it.
Pic is from their website.
Like c’mon man, those little single point contacts in one strand of of 10 awg ain’t gonna pass no 30 A. Ridiculous.
Other pic
sorry chud, Underwriters labs thinks otherwise
Have you ever had to work with UL? theyre a joke. Nobody is safer cause of them.
yea and i know they're mongoloids (like all burger electricians ive ever met, we have a minor issue? sorry cant do anything cause, red tape and too incompetent)
imagine having to one up the German standards, feels like cina namba one wank while their buildings collapse tbh
almost like you have to legally be able to prove specifications for something like this
strange how they can still get away with it!
Idgaf if it sets the whole block on fire.
UL happy = insurance company happy.
Don't be a little b***h
I wired up the dryer in my apartment using Wagos
WHY? Because they're rated for it
Inb4 "You're not supposed to drill holes in the wall, run new wiring, or modify the panel in your apartment REEEEEEEE"
erotic ;3
post penis in wago
wanna see it without the hand
so hot :3
please frick my wagoo
wagos are superior than anything that gets screwed.
if a wire is overloaded the copper expands because of heat and cools again the screw looses its tightness, the spring clamp however will always be the same, with stranded wire the resistance will even go down over time
> spring is superior
Twisted wires are never coming apart.
A marrette contains a literal spring.
they are better mostly. they're just harder to find and slightly more expensive. and they also have a hard limit of how many wires you can get into them where wire nuts you can maybe cram a little more into one.
i think we should go back to bakelite, ceramic and big fat brass screws.
and STAHLPANZERROHR
screws are trash, ceramic is based
pic will take a 200w incandescent bulb and dab on every other light source in ones workshop
I always pretwist before I put on a wire nut. The people who rely on Wagos are the same people that backstab outlets. Hacks who can’t wait to charge for a call back.
Yeah, you’re supposed to pre-twist for marrettes. It’s also not so hit-or-miss and it’s pre-inspected (you can see it) and mechanically and electrically sound before it even gets marretted. It’s kind of an unwritten rule, like using the device terminals rather than the backstab.
The “inspection window” argument for wago was one of the most laughable zoomer marketing department cope fails I’ve heard in a while.
why do you hate screw clamp push in.
Springloaded lever nuts may have their uses for low load current applications but I’ve seen too many fail under high current applications to trust them. And, when I say high current I mean totally within the acceptable current carrying capability of the breaker.
They just can’t handle the elevated temperatures for long term use under load.
Why reinvent the wheel? Learn how to properly splice your wires with Lineman pliers like a man.
i can get 100 3 wire waygos for 35 dollars or 100 yellow wire nuts for 9 dollars. its all cost. any other reason is some lame disingenuous cope. lever waygos are objectively easier to use. they just cost a ton more.
>35 dollars
lol youre getting kveched hard
100 of the 3 pol is like 10-14€ depending on lever type or not. And thats what i pay, not somebody ordering bulk
b-but they're on sale
24€ here in germany.
and how often do i have to tell you for residental shit we use wago 2273
How much is it relative to the total cost of wiring? Genuine question.
t. never did electrical work in the US
Might be a couple hundred bucks a week for an electrical outlet with a few dudes. They’re new on the US market. I could see tech guys switching to them eventually, or maybe some companies doing commecial jobs because an extra $200 in costs to the customer to save hours in labor could be worth it.
They might start getting more popular, but I don’t think the Wagos are really even sold much at the usual sparky retailers in the US. Wonder if City Electrical Supply has em around here. When you buy them on Amazon, they come from some odd 3rd party store, which makes me think they’re being imported from Yurop. Also boomer sparkies are hard to convince to change so maybe you need to wait for them to die off and millennials will use them.
Anyone worked with these shits ?
I fricking hate them
Loose connections cause arcs which cause fires. Leave those open with the circuit live if you hate your house.
cool cool, haven't burned down my house yet with a mix of nuts and wagoos
I mean it’s pretty fricking obvious if you leave that bright orange switch unlocked at 90deg like a literal red flag. If you’re not checking your connections, that’s on you. Not like a wire nut will solve for somebody being that incompetent and/or rushed.
Why are they so damn expensive. Even the aliexpress ones cost 10 dollars for 50
proffessionals have STANDARDS
I guess they didn't bother to pay for Al certification, as small-gauge Al is becoming obsolete anyway
These are probably fine in homes or commercial applications but I’m starting to see a lot of them in refrigerator and freezer appliances. Box freezes up because the fan died or the thermostat died, customer unplugs the box, ice melts, wagos get submerged in water. Now the unit has a dead short somewhere and you might as well rewire the whole thing. The manufacturers seem to think they’re waterproof
I fill mine up with silicone in conditions where they might get wet.
design and implement it right the first time and you never need to splice a wire
Do they have straight through versions of these quick splice things?
I like the clear ones. Every morning I open the panels and walls to visually inspect every connection.
The visual inspection part is key. That’s why my PC’s computer case is clear, so when Windows crashes, I can just glance over and visually inspect it to determine the exact cause of the crash.
screw clamps (idk if wirenuts count as screw) need to be inspected regulary and once a year we sporadicly check a few clamps in every cabinet with the screwdriver if they became loose.
spring clamps however dont need this.
They're not clear so you can inspect them. They're clear so that you can see you've got the conductor correctly positioned (pushed in fully for solid core, no fraying for twisted) when you install them.
>can see you've got the conductor correctly positioned
Sounds like a visual inspection to me.
Yes except
is talking about post-installation inspection.
the 224 makes it possible to do a T splice on a wire without needing to pull it
Its not its intended purpose but who gives a frick
Used WAGO simply push the wire in thingies and realized I didn't check whether the copper wire is only touching the metal thingy. It might be touching the plastic thingy too. I don't know as I don't remember it. Struggled a bit on some short wires when trying to replace a light switch in the wall.
It's been a week, no issues yet.
How fricked am I? How dangerous can it be? I mean it just works right, WAGO doesn't even include a manual in the box so it must be idiot proof?
AAAAAAAAAAAAH my wago knockoffs finally arrived and they are great.
Which ones did you get?
Also was inside a recently installed vending machine the other day and noticed they’re not using the goofy little crimps as much, it had a couple name brand Wagos and a handful of the Ideal ones. Finally starting to see those things pop up, but only like the past year.
Dope. I got $75 worth of Amazon gift cards burning a hole in my pocket and I’m on the fence what to get with it. Thinking about tossing an assortment of 2-3 wire Wagos in the cart with maybe a front end service kit for pulling tie rods and shit without the pickle fork.
Home Depot is gettin on board the Wago train.
German world domination finally on its way after two failed attempts.
I still give it real slim chances that any red-blooded Boomer sparkies will be switching to them any time soon. The kind of guys who strip wires with their Klein dykes (yes, Klein dykes is redundant in their minds) will be sticking with wire nuts.
I could see some redditor apprentices buying them out of their own pocket and throwing a bunch in their Veto Pro Pac next to their Knipex comfort grip pliers wrench.
Why are boomers like that? They choose to be miserable instead of just getting better tools
The price. The Wagos are like 4x-5x as much, and dudes have been twisting wire nuts for 30+ years without issue. “if it ain’t broke, don’t try to fix it”
I feel ya. I was tempted to grab some to have on standby, but $30 to have a couple of 2s and 3s and some of those inline ones? Meh, I don’t hate wire nuts that bad.
id absolutely switch if they were cheaper. if only five dollars more for an equivalent amount of wire nuts id do it. but they're like twice as much.
they're unbelievably more expensive compared to wire nuts. i was at home Depot the other day and saw the same display and checked.
$23 for 50 three wire waygos
$15 for 100 yellow wire nuts
do mutt electricians really buy the boutique packs at home depot? lol
In Europe the home improvement stores are all scams targeting the boomer audience, seems to be similar over the pond
>$15 for 100 yellow wire nuts
Those are the push-in ones. The lever ones seem to cost a bit more. There’s other brands of push-in connectors that are cheaper than the Wagos with the lever.
And for wire nuts, I’m sure you could get cheaper shit in bulk if you were a contractor or owned a sparky outfit. Or get cheap Chinese stuff from eBay or Ali or Amazon. But Ideal is the better brand of nuts at the actual store if you don’t want to start a fire
the lever type serves no purpose in a residential installation.
Flex pigtails like on lamps use this
everything else solid core is 20x series
240V is way safer than 120V. Also our cables are dimensioned to handle shorts.
It's practically impossible to burn a house if you don't bend your cables freehand.
>15ct for a fricking wirenut
The wagos test (yes, they actually test these things) worse than anything else, maybe I’d use them on a test jig or something but 99.9999% of connections I make are permanent and I’ve never had one fail.
It’s just another internet fad from tiktok and zoomers, just ignore it and it will go away.
>The wagos test (yes, they actually test these things) worse than anything else
Wat
crimp gang
You know that Three 6 Mafia song "Bin Laden Weed", where there's a cricket in the background?
That's what 'crimp gang' reminds me of....
Crickets.
More junk because people are lazy
They indeed DO heat ender heavy load. So if something had to melt, it'll be them. But thay can bear the regular 16 A load.
Another drawback is any tension risk them to disconect. They hold "ok tier" tho.
I don't really like using wago but sometimes I do when its more practical.
>Wago Connector
>6 dollars for a 10 pack
>60 cents a unit
vs
>Wire nuts
>16 dollars for a 300 pack, assorted sizes.
>5 cents a unit
I'm sure they're easier to install but they're both rated and certed to do the same thing.
wire nuts are too fricking dear too
i just twist the wires and cover them with hot glue, hasnt failed me once
You’re a hack if you use wagos
I don’t make the rules
can I use a wago with my 220V 7000W shower?
yeah, at least the lever version is rated for 32A so just enough
>europe, straight, wagos
>usa, gay, nuts
simple as
>Yurop has no nuts
>Burgerstan: full of nuts, large and small, every shade of the rainbow!