I want to build an electric elevator bed for my room:
>Queen to king-sized
>Stroke-length (minimum to maximum height) of at least 30 inches, preferably up to 36 inches
>Built into the corner of the room
I was thinking of using linear actuators with hall-effect sensors (to have all legs be synchronized), one in each leg (lumber legs, 4x4, 6x6, or whatever size as needed), to move the elevator bed up and down.
I was thinking 3 of the legs could be mounted to the walls, and the 4th leg be mounted to the ceiling joist at the top, and into the concrete foundation at the bottom.
My questions are:
1. How do I dress up the construction so it looks as dressed-up as pic related (Cinius "Rising" loft bed)
2. Are there better solutions than hall effect linear actuators? (For example, https://www.progressiveautomations.com/products/hall-effect-sensor-actuator?variant=18283068620867). From their videos they seem to move rather slowly, plus the memory resets if power is shutoff.
3.What is the best way to secure the actuators to the legs?
4. Anything else I should know or watch out for?
Use hydraulics you fricking moron
>welcome to hydraulic press channel
Bruh, just use a bunk. You're really running the risk of crushing yourself or someone else.
On such range, you can use IR/laser distance sensors instead of hall effect to get absolute position. I probably wouldn't bother trying to closed loop at all, because you really have to frick up for the motors to go out of sync.
>IR/laser distance sensors
Does that require programming?
Ideally I would like a control box that can have positions saved, similar to higher end standing desks.
Going down it's not really a problem, it won't be a problem, there'd be at least 4 feet of clearance even at it's lowest. Going up I could just find one with the proper stroke-length that it'd just be enough to get the bed out of the way at maximum extension, leaving enough room to crawl out at the top. Also, since it's extending, it'd be easy to work out a physical power disconnect if it extends further than it's supposed to.
I've seen plenty of examples of people using linear actuators for elevator beds, but none for hydraulics. I'm not familiar with hydraulics; what are their benefits over linear actuators, threaded rods, or motorized pulleys when used in an elevator bed?
Why do you need multiple height settings for an already elevated bed? Still, you can do it with one sensor, which is easier in terms of wiring at least.
>Does that require programming?
Yes, you shouldn't expect that such a project won't require programming unless you're an electrical engineer that can make the meme circuits.
>Why do you need multiple height settings for an already elevated bed?
You're right, I probably don't. Would be nice to have though if it doesn't add too much complexity. I figured most standing desks have it, so it's possible the control boxes could be off-the-shelf.
1. I was thinking of a hollow wooden beam, or a metal beam wrapped in wood paneling to resemble the OP image..
2. Initially I thought about using cabling, eccentric cam wheels, and a lever. Depending on the weight involved it'd be faster, but it'd be bulkier, especially if I were to safely enclose all the moving parts.
3. & 4. The link I posted in the OP for linear actuators actually includes solutions for all of those (except possibly safety), I was just looking for experience and guidance as I have not done anything motorized before. In terms of safety, the intention is for the maximum extension to be just enough for me to be able to walk under, and the minimum for me enough to sit in a chair under. Unless the actuator is somehow able to go significantly beyond it's maximum range, the only concern is if the entire assembly were to free-fall to it's minimum height while I'm standing beneath it.
"Tiny" home I guess. I want to cram all my shit into one small room, leave the other rooms for other uses/people. Also, this project just seems both fun and educational.
The actuators have connectors for mounting brackets at the top and bottom, which means the bed platform will need tracks.
I've seen examples of people using garage door tracks, but I personally want to limit and ideally eliminate any rattle (while still being resistant to possibly significant lateral force/shock). Would linear rails be a good solution, or are there better options? How should I optimize the orientation of the rails (or other alternatives)? Should I just add more if I need more lateral stability/strength?
>PrepHole invents the hydraulic hugbox
we are unstoppable
Maybe he can join forces with the antique Mac Fleshlight guy, then they could unleash true horror.
2x200 + 160 = 560 pounds minimum lift. 140 lbs per actuator
30'' Stroke 400lb Force Linear Actuator is 180 bux. I'm actually impressed this is so cheap.
>tfw you wake up at 3am to the sound of your homemade lift bed shorting out and driving your face into the ceiling with ten metric tonnes of pressure
He's not getting anywhere near the ceiling with 30" actuators. He may have one or two fail and drop, sliding him to the floor.
I want him to make it fully adjustable like a mexican lowrider.
1. telescoping wood boxes
2. for what your needs are, you shouldn't be picky about how fast or slow these actuators are. If you want speed you're going to have to do some actual design.
3. google "mounting bracket for actuator"
4. everything. leg parallelism, synchronization, safety
Is your "room" a shipping container? A "tiny home?" Get a Murphy bed if you want to save space, this sounds like you're courting danger.
What is your budget?
Show pics of your workshop.
Will you remember posting this when you wake up?
Around $2k. Not posting pics; I have access to a garage that's not mine, but it's jammed packed with crap. Has everything from table saws, compressors, to angle grinders. No welder, however. Probably, unless I wake up dead.
I guess you can call this a vanity project.
The Euroloft looks interesting; I can't figure how the platform looks so stable despite only being suspended by a few nylon straps and having no obvious tracks.
Currently, my rough thought of how I would go about this:
>4x square metal tubing going from floor to ceiling, (HSS) large enough to hold the linear actuator and 1 set of 20mm linear rails (the actuator motor protrusion will stick out width-wise per bed orientation). A long opening will be made via angle grinder so that it's big enough the actuator can be installed and removed without moving the pillar (square metal tubing). The actuator will be mounted to a bracket mounted to the inside wall of the tubing.
Another long opening will be made higher up, 90 degrees to the lower opening; this will be the attachment point from the actuator to the bed platform.
The top mounting bracket will be secured to the bottom of a piece of angle iron running the length of the bed, oriented with the outside face facing up and out, and the side of the angle iron (that extends inside the metal square tubing) secured to a linear rail mounted to the inside wall of the square tubing.
A piece of lumber will be secured along the length of the angle iron, both for aesthetics, and to provide mounting points for bed slats and handrails (does anyone know if the lumber will provide additional support to the angle iron?).
That's the basic idea.
Though I'm wondering if the pillars will be secure enough simply being mounted to the floor and ceiling, or if connecting struts and braces between the pillars will be needed.
The (rather ugly) square metal tubing (HSS) will be concealed via hardwood planks mounted magnetically to their exterior.
The room has an average ceiling which is 8' tall. Ideally the bed platform will still have 12" between the mattress and the ceiling at it's top-most position (for safety) while leaving around 6' below, so the combined thickness of mattress and platform should be 12" or less. Lowest position should be around 4'8" to 5', so someone can still sit underneath while the bed is down.
Which means a stroke length of between 12" and 16", unless I go for a thin mattress...
Is a simple hand pulley system out of the question? Why complicate this and spend so much on electric motors?
check out the Euroloft and Happijac from Lippert. RV products, may be roughly what you're looking for or something you can imitate
bed weight changes dramatically as it absorbs water, I think water beds and hammocks are the only bed types that do not increase weight over time.
personally I'd go with a murphy there are horizontal fold instead of the vertical fold better moisture control plus it becomes a decorative wall, but if you must i would mount pulleys on the celling wick a few lines into one and only worry about moving one rope; winch, and a cam cleat. ropes and riging has been solved on boats get inspiration.