Any appliance repair guys around? My washing machine is working fine, but my dryer is not, when I set the timer and turn the start knob literally nothing happens, no sounds, no clicks, zero. So far the following has been checked
> start button continuity
> Timer assembly taken apart to look for signs of damage/arcing etc - no visible damage
> 240v plug has been checked - reading ~240 on the two legs (4 pronged) and ~120 when going leg to constant
> thermal fuse unplugged and checked for continuity - also shorted it to see if that would work - it didnt but continuity is there
> belt was changed a couple years ago and is fine, not that I think this would have a big impact on it
> drum bearing changed at that same time, again shouldn't have an effect
> I tried to spin the drum while holding start to see if the motor is shot, but it had no effect
Any other advice?
I also checked the door closed button for continuity, works fine - I shorted it to be extra sure still no effect.
Did you give it a good kick in the side with the toe of a work boot?
The real professionals rely on simple percussive maintenance to keep their appliances in tip-top shape
Apply power directly to the motor. Does it turn? If not, bad motor (likely the motor starting capacitor, if it has one). If so, probably bad circuit board.
That isn't everything that could be wrong with it, just the next things I would check.
Since you didn't mention the lint trap, thoroughly clean and reseat it
yes I cleaned it all and vacuumed the interior areas pretty well
I did but not very effective, its hollow. I tapped each individual component while the start button was held on as well
power directly to the motor is a bit of a challenge as I don't feel like running random 240v cables to the motor. Having had my furnace motor go, it's not difficult to turn at all when compared to the furnace's shot motor.
One question I do have, the picrel is what I thought is the thermal fuse, however upon removing it and looking up the part number, it's called a "thermal limiter" that being said, I don't see any other wires running around that could be a "thermal fuse"
Part number of picrel - t-0-d60t81
I would check for power at the motor rather than jumping it. Try hitting the start button and see if it sends power to the motor?
Also on electric dryers, last one I messed with much, the 240V circuit is only really for the heater and the board and everything else was 120V off only one of the legs, so don’t be surprised if you only see 120V at the motor.
And yeah, those are thermal fuses. Probably can read resistance on it, I bet some googling would tell you the temp-ohm chart for those things because they’re super common. Can’t remember if resistance goes up or down with temp because I’m a simpleton.
That is the sensor it uses to tell the heating element to turn on and off to maintain a set temperature. Even if that part was bad, it wouldn't keep the dryer from turning on and spinning. It would just either not make any heat or make too much heat.
What about temp sensors? There’s likely a couple of them.
And what other anon said, check if the motor is getting power.
Guys I've been at it for hours and think I found the problem, there's a sleeve around the thermostat that is a weird looking fuse I suppose. I checked for continuity across the two wires going in and then out of it and it's got zero power, makes me think this is the culprit.
Do you guys think I should short it and see what happens?
Yeah go for it. Worst case scenario your non-functional dryer continues to be non-functional.
well I first tried bypassing the fuse, then the thermostat entirely and I got no response. One thing that did happen is I heard a click for the first time then nothing, not sure what could cause that.
I guess I'll be looking at the motor, have some safety stuff to look up I suppose
>have some safety stuff to look up
Stick the damn probes in the wires going to the motor. Hell, it’s probably a plug that comes off the motor, stick the probes in the plug and hit the start button. See if you get any volts.
how do I know which spots to put my meter?
Is there a plug for the motor? Disconnect the plug and see how many wires it is. Not like you’re measuring points on the motor, there’s almost certainly a wiring harness with a little clip-in plug and you can stick the probes in there (not the motor side, the wires coming from the actual dryer to the motor where power would be coming from)
heres a photo of the harness, no idea which wire does what.
Can you find a part #? Or a breakdown with the part #? A lot of the temp stuff is resistance, not just open/closed like a fuse.
there's no part number, just made in mexico
okay power at the motor is much more reasonable, not that I'm so confident to shove my arms in there with all that live power to be honest, I think Im going to order the part above and just see if it works
you seem to be correct
Yeah and looks like those are all “thermal limit switches” and more like a fuse, I’m moronic. If you test for ohms, it’s either 0 or OL.
Anyway I would go for the motor next assuming everything else has continuity and power. Lots of that thermal stuff will let the dryer spin but no heat and you’re getting a totally dead unit.
UPDATE:
Somebody fricking shoot me in the face. It was the plug line running between the wall and the interior of the machine. I tested my wall and got both 220 and 110 no prob, but inside the machine, it was only showing 110... I... bent one leg of the plug and it worked.
I have the entire machine disassembled.
Thanks for the trouble shooting, going to put it back together and report back and see what happens. wtf anons... why am I so challenged.
Was going to ask that part, those dryer plugs are screwed in right at the back. I tested a bunch of shit on mine too only to realize that one leg of the 240V was going in and out from a shitty breaker.
it was literally the plug leg itself that was bent. I feel like such a dumb frick. learned a lot at least...
>those dryer plugs are screwed in right at the back
yeah that's where I figured out 220 wasn't making it into the machine. I was too nervous to test it because electricity scares me. meanwhile, it would have revealed all my trouble was between those connections at the machine and the wall. The fact the washer worked is what threw me, since it made me think fine, power is getting in, plus the wall plug working being a double confirmation. BUT the dryer clearly runs on either 220 or needs one of the 110 legs to run independently.
Check this guy's channel he explains appliance diagnosis pretty well
https://www.youtube.com/@bensappliancesandjunk
The knob is bad. They break and when they don't make a click when turning it is very obvious.
You have the same washer as me. But older. Open the panel between the dryer and the washer (the sloped part that faces sort of downwards), there’s a condensed version of the service manual taped in there with circuit diagrams etc. if it’s still there that is
Are you the same Anon who couldn't fit your stacked washer/dryer into your basement, and decided to carve wholes in the floor instead of returning it? Did you ever cut a hole for the dryer exhaust?
no that's not me
it does click. I disassembled it and it all looks good, no burnt shit its clean as new
yes I found it, no idea how to read that
SO. I havent been around a few days because I work a lot, but I'm determined to fix this bastard so I don't need to buy both a washer and dryer because this is a combo and limited space.
I pulled the drum since looking at images shows there is a second thermal fuse setup behind the heating element (circled in red). They both have continuity, not sure how to proceed. Uploading motor harness photo momentarily for.
forgot to circle them, top left of the heating element - I am getting continuity across all of those.
I also tested the thermal fuses OUT of the dryer and unplugged in case ground was playing a role in them working.
The only other thing I don't know how to test but would love to short is the timer assembly, I wish I could bypass it and just turn the machine on to see if thats the failed part.
Picrel is the wiring diagram but it includes the dryer and washer.
I'm dumb, one side was just french I didn't realize. Now you all know I'm a leaf...
Orange and purple