Has to be at least close. Try a light knurl and if it gets off so that it isn't a full sized knurl pattern trim a bit off and try again. You'll have to cut down below your last knurl pattern so you have a smooth surface to try again.
Could this phenomenon be used by a primitive old-timey blacksmith/machinist as a test to confirm that a set of parts are closely matched? Like if he needed a set of matching pins that were identical but he didn't care what the actual final diameter was.
>as a test to confirm that a set of parts are closely matched?
And the if they are? Have to cut the knurling off after the test. Unless it was part of the spec. And then knurled surfaces don't have to be that close toleranced anyway.
Because when it comes around again to the beginning, the tool will naturally slide into the initial depression instead of trying to cut a new one a fraction of a degree away.
Then with subsequent passes, it squishes the slightly wider or slightly narrower knurl into the same size as the rest.
If you were to measure it extremely accurately, the pattern ends up having a lot of deviation - with some knurls slightly larger and some slightly smaller than the others.
But it's "close enough" and spread out across the surface, so you'd never notice without measuring it closely.
Because when it comes around again to the beginning, the tool will naturally slide into the initial depression instead of trying to cut a new one a fraction of a degree away.
Then with subsequent passes, it squishes the slightly wider or slightly narrower knurl into the same size as the rest.
If you were to measure it extremely accurately, the pattern ends up having a lot of deviation - with some knurls slightly larger and some slightly smaller than the others.
But it's "close enough" and spread out across the surface, so you'd never notice without measuring it closely.
This is correct. The knurling die is free-spinning so it settles into the existing grooves after the first pass.
I remember there being some anecdote about some guy on YouTube knurling a taper. It's all black magic and you don't have to do any math or measuring, just throw the tool at it and it just works.
anybody that says it works on any diameter has obviously never ruined a part with an ugly, double cut, chicken scratch knurl
it's not hard to figure out the dp of the knurl by rolling it across a sheet of paper, counting off a 50 or so marks, measuring the length of them and divide. then adjust your diameter/circumference to be an even multiple. if you don't end up with nice rows of pointed pyramids, you done fricked up
>guru says
got me there. i've only been a r&d prototype machinist for 22 years and don't have any israelitetoob vids. obviously i don't know shit from shinola
good example of why 1018 mild steel sucks for finish vs everything else. left was a test piece from a random drop of mild and right is O1 tool steel hardened and tempered
>herters brand
Ah, a connoisseur of "The world's finest" everything.
Some of the past was SO much better...
it was criminal that the gca of 1969 put them and a bunch of others out of business when the feds nixed mail order gun delivery
yuh
nur
mube
con yoo rebeat de guestyun
Has to be at least close. Try a light knurl and if it gets off so that it isn't a full sized knurl pattern trim a bit off and try again. You'll have to cut down below your last knurl pattern so you have a smooth surface to try again.
Could this phenomenon be used by a primitive old-timey blacksmith/machinist as a test to confirm that a set of parts are closely matched? Like if he needed a set of matching pins that were identical but he didn't care what the actual final diameter was.
>as a test to confirm that a set of parts are closely matched?
And the if they are? Have to cut the knurling off after the test. Unless it was part of the spec. And then knurled surfaces don't have to be that close toleranced anyway.
yes. It's very annoying.
No and I have no idea why. It just works.
Because when it comes around again to the beginning, the tool will naturally slide into the initial depression instead of trying to cut a new one a fraction of a degree away.
Then with subsequent passes, it squishes the slightly wider or slightly narrower knurl into the same size as the rest.
If you were to measure it extremely accurately, the pattern ends up having a lot of deviation - with some knurls slightly larger and some slightly smaller than the others.
But it's "close enough" and spread out across the surface, so you'd never notice without measuring it closely.
This is correct. The knurling die is free-spinning so it settles into the existing grooves after the first pass.
I remember there being some anecdote about some guy on YouTube knurling a taper. It's all black magic and you don't have to do any math or measuring, just throw the tool at it and it just works.
>some guy on YouTube knurling a taper.
Here's one, I think. I'm not sure because he managed to put me to sleep in the first 3 minutes of irrelevant boomerisms.
anybody that says it works on any diameter has obviously never ruined a part with an ugly, double cut, chicken scratch knurl
it's not hard to figure out the dp of the knurl by rolling it across a sheet of paper, counting off a 50 or so marks, measuring the length of them and divide. then adjust your diameter/circumference to be an even multiple. if you don't end up with nice rows of pointed pyramids, you done fricked up
User error based on your fingers. Try not being 80 IQ next life
>is on PrepHole and can't tell dirty hands from brown ones. rope yourself homosexual
>guru says
got me there. i've only been a r&d prototype machinist for 22 years and don't have any israelitetoob vids. obviously i don't know shit from shinola
>got me there. i've only been a r&d prototype machinist for 22 years and don't have any israelitetoob vids. obviously i don't know shit from shinola
need to work on that thin skin there fella. Nobody meant to hurt your fee fees.
i got a case of the mondays
peak comfy. can it be autumn already? let's skip spring and summer
Bait taking aside, upper looks damn fine indeed.
good example of why 1018 mild steel sucks for finish vs everything else. left was a test piece from a random drop of mild and right is O1 tool steel hardened and tempered
it was criminal that the gca of 1969 put them and a bunch of others out of business when the feds nixed mail order gun delivery
>anybody that says it works on any diameter
In this particular case, the guru of fine machining says the diameter did not matter:
https://youtu.be/i9pD5vIHJ8M?si=GklXTf7c9QbnP8XY&t=621
>the guru of fine machining says the diameter did not matter:
because it eroded the metal down to a diameter that fit
>because it eroded the metal down to a diameter that fit
so you're saying it knurled it?
eventually
Why do you have a knurled shellholder?
they copies of obsolete herters brand in calibers that didn't exist back when the presses were built
>herters brand
Ah, a connoisseur of "The world's finest" everything.
Some of the past was SO much better...
This sounds like a fascinating mathematical problem since the knurling will deform the metal affecting circumference slightly.
It all depends on the type of knurling you want to do, if it's just cosmetic, shove it in until it looks right then feed it.
https://www.doriantool.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/SEC-H-Knurling-Tools_LowRes_compressed.pdf
no, the value is what you get after you nurl the nob