Does anyone have a strategy for cutting a killer key for a padlock so that it can still be used to unlock the lock it’s designed for, but gets stuck in the lock afterwards anyway?
Here’s what I’m trying to accomplish:
>Setting up a scavenger-hunt style game of sorts where players have to find keys
>Want to have identically-keyed locks securing prizes so that when a player finds any given key, they can open the lock of their choosing but then can’t withdraw the key to use it on a different lock; they’ll need to gather more in order to open the others
>Since I’ll need to go through the effort/money to cut the keys anyway, I would rather have a method for just copying a pre-existing key for a pre-existing pin configuration and adding the killer cut behind the last pin’s resting place on it, than have to do all of that /and/ pin the locks myself (learning how to do that is on my to-do list but I haven’t done it yet and don’t have the supplies I would need yet)
>I’m aware of how simple the tools are to remove a killer, in fact that’s how I plan to reset the game after players are finished; they won’t be allowed to use any picking tools, improvised or otherwise while playing
>I don’t have access to my own key-cutting, machining, 3D printing, or other from-scratch devices currently; for now, all I have is access to scan&cut machines from a nearby hardware store
Also, general lockpicking and locksmith thread I guess.
coin operated locks set to retain mode.
Bonus if you can have them in a foreign currency so they can't cheat
Honestly just tell the players to leave the keys in the locks; that each key is only useful for one lock. Easier for your to "reset", and less ways for the players to cause unintentional damage to the locks.
Pins aren't meant to withstand horizontal force, only vertical. If someone pulls a killer key with enough force it's likely to damage the lock.
To answer your question, you can do this by simply not cutting the key for the first pin, causing it to catch on that but still provide the intended lock functionality for the remaining pins. beware that if someone sticks the wrong killer key in the wrong lock they will not get it out, ruining the game.
TL;DR; Cool but bad idea imo
OP here
>Honestly just tell the players to leave the keys in the locks
Hm; I don’t disagree with you based on the information I gave you and in the context of not risking damaging the locks, but just telling them they can’t use a key more than once won’t work for me. I had been hoping to spare this thread the details in the spirit of the “no sex toys” rule, but the game I want to arrange is actually for a group of consenting bondage enthusiasts; let’s just say that a big part of the appeal for players is that there’s a physical inability to use a key for more than one lock, not just a rule. All of the details that aren’t about the nature of the game are still true otherwise. Hope that’s not TMI.
>If someone pulls a killer key with enough force it's likely to damage the lock
Honestly I’m not too worried about this. For this I’ll be using cheap locks; if I need to replace them and make new keys for those for later iterations of the game, so be it. I already have safety plans in place, and will have a backup non-killer key, killer-removal tools, a pick set, and bolt cutters hidden away in case someone fricks up a lock without getting it open first; and we’ll only be using locks that are all keyed the same way, so none of the killers will be used in the ‘wrong’ lock.
>You can do this by simply not cutting the key for the first pin
Thanks anon, I think this is the info I’m looking for but I’m not certain I understand—are you saying that I just need to create the vertical killing edge perpendicular to the first pin’s notch instead of giving that ridge its normal “downslope“, or are you describing something else?
By first pin, you’re referring to the one nearest the entry of the keyway/opening, correct? Does trapping the key with that pin specifically work better than doing the same with the far one?
Cont.
I forgot, there are two specific questions I’ve considered while mulling this over:
1. Do you have a recommended method for tracing, photographing, or otherwise creating a “template” for an automated key-cutting machine to generate keys using a 2D image? I’ve been planning to try tracing one of the original, non-killer keys onto cardboard or construction paper, cut it out with an x-acto knife, make the additional cuts needed to turn it into a killer, and then have the machine scan that instead of the scanning the actual original. Wondering if anyone has tried this, or has a better way; I’d like to avoid manually filing the first one so that it’s less time/effort and lower chance of messing up the notch (otherwise I’m just left with X number of killer keys that kill but don’t open their lock)
2. I imagine that there’s some minimum depth I should want the notch of the pin I’ll be assigning the killing edge, otherwise enough jiggling or the bump technique will be able to pop it out. When visually inspecting the keys of a set of locks to determine if they’ll be a good candidate, how deep should I assume is deep enough to avoid that problem? If the first pin’s notch isn’t deep enough, is there any reason why I couldn’t use a different pin’s notch that is?
Given the types of things that will be locked, that won’t work for me for this project, but that’s a great idea for the original family-friendly game I described; if I set up that version of it, which I honestly may at some point, I’ll keep this in mind.
Come on, anon, tell us all about your Bohemian Grove orgy. How many heads of state are showing up?
Will the CIA or the FBI be hosting?
TELL US.
This. Spill the beans ya sick frick.
It’s just going to be me and like, 4 or 5 ugly gay dudes and fat chicks
Phase 2 is for them to start inviting friends so that it catches on in popularity
Once attractive women start to show up in phase 3, my work is complete
If I wanted heads of state to attend, I would be better off designing the family game version instead and advertising to them that kids would be there
If I don’t respond after someone answers a question or this post gets deleted, assume I knew too much
Real talk, if I wanted to just take keys that already open a particular lock, but cut them myself, what sort of tool should I be looking for/look up how to use? Preferably a tool/technique I could additionally use to make lockout key versions of this idea (opens the lock when you use both pieces of metal, disables it when you remove the piece with the head, head allows you to re-enable use of the lock). I’m assuming any key can be used this way as long as the lowest notch is still high enough to cut the key into two pieces without completely wrecking the structural integrity/breaking it in the process of cutting.
>“no sex toys” rule
Anon why dont you use combo locks like all the other bondage groups? Or have a hidden button that unlocks the thing, and the key is for show?
But please tell more details about what/why it needs to lock securely.
I know you don’t mean it that way, but these suggestions are are patronizing.
I don’t want to use combo locks, I want to use keys. You can’t do what I’m describing with keys by hiding scrap of paper with a code on it and have a player able to use it for any of their locks, but only for the one lock—either they now have/know a combo for multiple locks, or you’ve already chosen for them which lock their combo is going to open.
A hidden button is a polarizing topic for people who actually like bondage—a lot of subs don’t want an emergency escape button they can use at any time (and if they’re into it, they would quickly figure out it’s there), and a lot of doms don’t want to have to personally manually unlock something for a sub while maintaining the facade the entire time that there’s no way for them to open more than that one. Have you ever gotten disappointed when your suspension of disbelief is destroyed on a tourist ride because the bandits attacking the ride are the same ones you saw hanging out with the guide during a smoke break beforehand? Same thing.
Arguably, combo locks face both of these problems—the kind which fit the types of restraints I would be using are typically 3 digits based on size and the TSA-derived idea of security theater that “the presence of a lock is good enough to deter tampering, even if it’s a shitty lock.” It takes about 3 minutes tops to check every combo on one of those until you get the right one, meaning that it’s not much better than a hidden button.
The kinds of locking devices will either have a buckle like in pic related, or it will have a cam-pin for a similarly sized padlock going through two tongues of leather. This size of small luggage padlock fits devices/restraints which use either.
Does that answer your questions?
What I am asking for help with is how to cut the keys (tools and technique, and if I can make copies afterwards using an automated cutter the way I’m picturing)
>a group of consenting bondage enthusiasts
An aside: What do you use for a "safe word" for people wearing ball gags?
You'll need a simple enough setup, and you wont need to get all the locks fully pinned.
Add a single vertical cut on the keys after where one of the pins will drop. Instant lock jam.
Sort of acts like a fish hook... you'll need to pull the locks apart afterwards though to get them out, unless you have broken key extractors to lift the stuck pin.
This. Just make the peaks on a key only slanted on one side
Yes, thank you anons, but I already understand that about the concept/design.
The only parts I don’t understand are
>Does it make a difference which notch’ ramp I cut into a vertical edge, ie should it always be the first ramp, the last ramp, or chosen based on the heights of that key’s notches
>Is there a reliable way of assessing whether a given key’s notches are too high to make a reliable vertical/killing edge, or too low to cut that way without breaking the key in the process of modifying it
>What tools/machines do I need to be able to make the cuts
>If I have access to an automated scanning/cutting machine, can I use that to make duplicates of the modified key so that I don’t have to modify all of the copies by hand
>Similarly, would I be able to save even more time by tracing the original key, cutting out the tracing, and making the modifying vertical cut(s) on that for a cutting machine to then duplicate
I tried filing down ramps on a key by hand with an iron file once about 15 years ago to turn it into a bump key, and it took ages; I would prefer to save time by minimizing any manual filing
Kek, thinking about how keys don’t work in real life like they do in Zelda dungeons was what gave me the idea in the first place, albeit it was a while before I made the jump from “what if you had an escape room that worked like locked doors in Zelda dungeons” to “what if you were wearing the escape room”
What kind of Zelda LARP is this?
This thread is weird, but also peak PrepHole. Thanks for making me dust off my lock picks, OP.
US Post Office does this. The community mailboxes all have parcel bins. When they deliver you a parcel, they put it in the bin and put a key to your bin in your mailbox. You use that key to unlock the parcel bin. But the key cylinder has a ratchet to prevent it from being turned back to the position where the key may be removed. The post office has a special key that works from the inside to retract the ratchet so the key may be removed.
You don't need a special key. You just need to prevent the cylinder from returning to the "insert" position (or whatever it's called). A normal key will be stuck.
Intriguing; how do I obtain this in padlock form?
I dunno what others do, but I establish a signal for literally tapping out, then if someone gives the signal the first thing you do is remove the gag, and more after that depending on what they need..
If you wanted to do something where they couldn’t slap their hand against something, you could do something similar with a finger snap (or attempt thereof; always pay attention to what your subs appear to be trying to do), foot tap, or even humming/grunting a specific short, simple rhythm.
For anything like that, give them a chance to practice it while they’re only partially restrained, and put up a sign or something with a reminder for what the signal is.
>Intriguing; how do I obtain this in padlock form?
Ask a locksmith. I'm not sure if the two key form of this is available in padlock form. But you can take it to a machinist and ask for them to fit it into a box and add shackle that engages the enclosed lock mechanism.
Do you know why Jesus Christ died on the cross?
>Do you know why Jesus Christ died on the cross?
Jews did him in
He forgot his safe word.
He died so you could tell jokes that fall that flat