I want to go full moron and paint my car by myself. I've seen others do it woth rollers, spray guns etc.
What I am interested in is what kind of paint I should use:
Emulsion
Acrylic
Oil based or some other bullshit.
Do all paints require a primer? What about the clearcoat? I want to know my options. I would prefer if possible to use a water based paint due to odors, but I don't know if it will stand up to the weather, sun
if you're cheap as frick you can just use rustoleum with clear coat, no idea how that holds up
if you're moronic as frick you can just buy 10000 rattle cans and do it that way
Did additional research and it seems that Acrylic Enamel is the way to go. Urethane would be better, but that shit is toxic as frick.
For your money an acrylic urethane single stage paint is the best you will get. just do it outside next year if you have some space. If you have to do it inside buy some PPE. I doubt you can even buy acrylic anymore, it's probably really a urethane.
Oil based enamel just isn't that good.
There are shelves full or acrylic enamel. Talked to the hardware store paint guy, he said that the paint should hold up for around half a year in the sun, but should last for years if covered in a clearcoat.
But now I am exploring my clearcoat options
Can we get a detailed summary of some different clears?
I do a lot of woodworking and have a general understanding of most of those finishes. There are times when I need to repair cabinets to a factory smooth finish or others I'd like to get an auto level paint and clearcoat.
Single stage will be cheaper. Nason clear is good and on the cheaper. Putting clear over acrylic enamel is pointless imo. You aren't going to save any money this route.
Why is it pointless? The paint degradation is too slow to put on a clear coat?
Just get a urethane single stage, the clears that are good are going to be urethane anyway. If you are going to half ass it that much just do an oil based enamel like other anons said.
Urethane is very toxic and I don't want to deal eith it, also I am unsure how well it will lay with a roller.
As for clearcoats, there are acrylic based ones and others
theres, um, reasons you paint cars indoors
Yes but given OP's budget and willingness to get it done, a little bugs in the paint won't matter much. If and when, a light scuff with 240-grit and a touch up will fix it. If you're willing to do that indoors, you can do it piecemeal as most parts other than the roof, the pillars and the rockers can be removed and brought inside a small dwelling like a bathroom or a shed. The hood is removable but a bit unwieldy to bring inside by yourself.
>light scuff with 240 grit
I love when woodworkers give advice on auto paint
Unironically brush and roller with tractor and implement oil based enamel.
> tractor and implement oil based enamel.
This. Plus if you want to spray it, you can just use plain old enamel reducer, and it works fine.
Otherwise it looks decent when brushed/ rolled.
that depends on your budget, OP
I'm getting ready to roller part of my car outside, whenever the goddamn weather permits, for a little more than "as cheaply as possible" which would be brushing it with house paint
>wash and brush it
>sand with a DA, unsure of what grits I will use as it was resprayed prior to my owning it and I SUSPECT they used single-stage
that respray is failing and based on how it's failing I am guessing it's single-stage, but I'm not a paint guy so idk
>wipe down with paint prep solvent
>wipe down with lint-free towels
>wipe down with tack cloth
>prime with Rustoleum Farm & Implement primer, on a foam roller
>block that in with some fine grit
>paint with Rustoleum Farm & Implement paint, on a foam roller
no etching, no filling, no multi-step priming, no guide coat, blah blah cause I don't give a frick and I am poor and this car isn't worth a real paint job when shops here are now charging around $6k for such jobs and I can buy another car for that much
if you want to spend a bit more you can buy an HVLP system, which will be better than cans or rollers
it's illegal to spray outside so that's not an option for me, my current compressor probably wouldn't be adequate anyway and a paint gun system costs as much as an HVLP unit
aside from tools, let's say this lasts 3 years, I'll have spent like $210 on paint and primer and a few hundred on rollers, abrasives, tack cloth, etc. which have all gotten crazy expensive since the fake pandemic
vs even the cheapest Maaco shit job for $3k (quoted price from my local Maaco, estimated to last merely 1-3 years)
How important is primer anyway if I am going to sand it down to bare metal?
primer is more important on bare metal
you can paint over scuffed/sanded paint, but reapplying primer is better
if you want to do it the "right" way, it's like
>get down to bare metal
>clean with solvents and tack
>buff/cut with around 600 grit
>use etching primer
>block
>use sealing primer
>block
>guide coat
>block
>more primer
bodyshops seem to like using epoxy primer sealer, which is expensive and requires a spray system
Oh, so if I am not going to use primer, I should rather scuff up the existing paint and use it as "primer"?
What kind of problems will I face if I decide to do it this way? Is it really worth going bare metal, primer and painting it like that?
yes, here's a video of a true redneck roller job with no primer
I originally was planning not to, but like I said, I think the existing paintjob has no primer, so I'd pretty much be painting on bare metal if I go beyond scuffing, and the point of what I'm doing is to change the color so not taking the paint down through the base coat would be dumb, but it's single-stage so the base coat is the only thing
Scotty Kilmer once said "never buy a car that's been repainted" and I agree with that now, it's just a headache
so, buy a big compressor, and a spray gun setup, and a generator?
at that point I could save money paying a shop to do it
doesn't make any sense to invest in paint equipment if you don't plan to make a "business" out of it
Okay, so if I had to use primer, what would you recommend?
> scotty kilmer said…
He’s probably said the opposite of that, too. In fact, he’s said everything at one point or another.
His never buy list includes every vehicle evr made by every company
>illegal to spray outside
Buy or borrow a gas generator or a bunch of car batteries and a big ass inverter and go in the middle of nowhere.
I am roller painting a test part, but what I am unsure is if I should sand between the coats after waiting 24 hours, or can I just add a another coat after 4 hours? Will the surface finish suffer?
?si=3Ja2E2TuXHUTVcJ4
Go to 3:15
Truck bed liner is a simple single-stage paint.
there is automotive paint you can get at most car stores if it's not a big area but in theory you can do a whole car with these. There is also automotive primer and clear coat. I have fixed my own cars in panels with these. ChrisFix does a good job showing more or less the method I used. Overall you should watch some of his videos as he is pretty good. You may be able to contact a manufacturer of paint for larger quantities if you want to spray gun it. Be sure to use rust remover on any areas with rust because they will come back in maybe 1-3 months and ruin a lot of work. I'd cover with primer til it's solid, then hit it with 3-4 coats of paint and immediately while it's tacky hit that with about 5 coats of clear coat. When it's dry at least 2 weeks you can then take maybe 600 up to 3000 grit wet sand to it to make it smooth and then buff the rest for high shine. beware of hard tape lines in touch up areas and use folded paper so it's curved like a circle towards your paint area and it will feather in better. If I had to guess maybe 2-3 cans per panel of paint.
nothing beats an actual paint gun and auto paint
everything else is gonna be super ghetto
if you like bed liner you can use monstaliner and make it actually look really good for the money
I did that with my floor pans because frick carpet
I got clipped on the front quarter panel on my car, and I repainted it.
what I did was tape off the damaged areas but it looks like shit, I should have painted the whole body panel in one go.
I sanded it back to bare metal, used trash bags and tape to block off areas. used some white rattlecan primer, some sort of color-match paint for my car (from AutoZone or whatever, comes in a spray can), and then clearcoat in a spray can. technique is important, I'd get better results with a spray gun but the spray paint wasn't horrific, from a distance.
primer is cheap. clearcoat is required, it's just paint without any pigment. it keeps scratches from removing paint.
also, I washed it with soap/water and then methylated spirits. cheap, dries fast, removes oil. did the whole thing outside, it was fine
Yeah, I realized I need a primer, acrylic enamel doesn't stick to the surface well, at least not on my PLA 3D print
If you're not wanting something super fancy I'd just scuff your current paint with a scotchbrite pad until it is dull and then either get a single stage urethane from some place like Eastwood and get the proper reducer and hardener with it, or go to your local hardware store and pick up some implement paint and the hardener that goes with it and acetone to thin. Can also add some Japan drier to it to make it set up faster.
I painted my service truck with implement paint. Took 8 gallons! Lots of nooks and crannies.
Thats sick anon, good job!
Thanks man. I still have to paint the wheels and a few shields. Someday I'll get it 100% finished.
That truck is AI generated.
Morons.
Make sure to feather edge all the scrapes , chips, and wear the paint is fading. Honestly buy a pint of urethane primer and reducer to spray over corrected areas. If you wanna cheap out buy enamel/ industrial paint at Napa. They have lots of colors. If you want it a bit nice go for base coat clear coat paint.
Seems like I will use this stuff pic related. Realized that acrylic enamel needs primer and all primers are oil based anyways. Hammerite is similar to Rust-oleum but more durable? Anyone who has experiece with it, please chime in
Oil based would be the best finish if you're buying 1-part paint
Water based shit dries too quickly and doesn't harden as much
That's why all the tacos use Rust-Oleum oil based in the gallon can
It's like $30/gallon and the finish actually looks fine
Yeah, oil based paint seems like the way to go.
I did find Hammerite Ultima which is water based, but the finish on them is sub par compared to regular based one.
If you have a shitbox you can sandpaper off the clear coat, get an air compressor paint gun, and paint the car using hammerite/rustoleum and dilute the paint with acetone or something.
Pretty cheap method.
Roll it on and tip it with a brush as you go. Will give the best finish with decent paint.
80 grit between coats so it adheres.
Thats the trick you need anon.
Your thread reminds me of a project I shelved a few years ago, maybe there is someone here that has the knowledge so I van revive it.
I want to paint my car vantablack but buying it ready made will cost around 30k so I need to make my own, I've been successful in creating the nano carbon particles but now comes the 2 problems.
Problem 1: what do I mix it with so I get paint, I've tried watery epoxy but mixing more than 5% powder makes it soft and comes of if you drag your fingernail across.
Problem 2: what clear coat do I need to use (this is why I tried epoxy so no clear coat is needed) the powder absorbs 99+% of light and in ''ready to paint form'' it will probably reflect some and Motip matte clear coat reflects 10%.
Any ideas? Thanks.
It will not absorb light the way you want due to clearcoat being very reflective. Why not use spray adhesive and then trying to powder the pigment on it?
>clearcoat being very reflective
Well the powder absorbs 99+% and Motip matte clearcoat is 10% reflective so in ideal conditions the finished paint will absorb 89% of the light, I'm happy with that result since Motip matte black spray can has a light absorption of around 80%
>Why not use spray adhesive and then trying to powder the pigment on it?
I've tried that on a piece of scrap metal but it gives a irregular finish, and if you sand it you get some lines that reflect maybe 1% more looks very ugly in the bright sun.
And idk but I imagine if you don't sand it or cover it in a clearcoat dust and other junk might go in the countless 2-80 nanometer holes making it more reflective.
I think I'm starting to understand why that stuff is so expensive.
I'm just speculating, but getting 99% and it being weather resistant would require some serious chemistry, there is a reason why stealth aircraft are kept in a hangar away from the rain. Their paint absorbs just different wavelengths.
As for making it paintable, mix that stuff with clearcoat and dillute it with a solvent I guess, should make it more fluid and the solvent should evaporate after painting.
I am talking out of my ass, of course
>but getting 99% and it being weather resistant would require some serious chemistry
I know that's pretty hard but I'm aiming at 85+% before I paint it on the car.
The method that you mention does work but I'm guessing that the light absorption will be around 80% making it slightly more glossy than Motip matte black spray can.
Or rattle can as I see some people refer to it as that.
I did some thinking and maybe this works 1.adhesive on car 2.apply pigment 3.air compressor the exces away 4.dry ice blasting to make it uniform and prevent glossy lines .5 Motip matte clearcoat.
But I don't have a dry ice blaster and I don't want to waste money renting it for a test.
Guess I leave it shelved until I can work out those 2 problems some day.
Eastwood and another company I can't think of the name now make all in one products now that create very good results for the work you're putting in (not much). Color and clear all in one. I saw somewhere ITT crying about "much urethane is toxic :(". Wear a respirator you stupid frick. there's a reason its used for car paint. It works. All you need is a harbor freight air compressor and HVLP gun to do the job.
I am willing to compromise on paint, but FRICK spraying. I had to deal with it before while painting my calipers with high temp paint and it just fricking sucks ass. Gets everywhere, the misty shit is settling on all surroundings, you need not only compressor, but full body suit so you wouldn't end up like a cumsock. I want to paint my car, not my entire garage. I'd rather spend entire week polishing
>I want to do it I just don't want to do it effectively
Would you frick off with your stupid ass thread you triple Black person?
You okay there bud?
I know it can be done without spraying, as it was done in the past and by many other enthusiasts nowadays with great results.
I just watched a video on israelitetube about a guy rolling paint on his minivan. 4" foam roller and alkyd enamel is the go-to for about everyone that does this. I'm sure you can find a wealth of info on it out there...
I think a few rattlecans and some hard work will really bring out the shit in your shitbox, give it that nice charm you're lookin for.
The guy here used paint for metal fences and the effect is awesome.
Heh, yeah it is exactly the same paint
if you want easy results consider this paint, or the equivalent available in your continent. A lot of ppl are very happy with it.
Also this, a textured finish will cover a multitude of sins!
Painting is a science, despite morons telling you it's easy.
Your paintjob has 2 jobs: Protecting from air contact (rust) and being resistant to shit scratching it off and looking good.
Your Formular should always be: Primer, Paint, Clear coat.
All 3 of these must be from the same system. Good choices are acrylic or epoxy systems. Some solutions require drying between steps, others are wet-in-wet painted. Mind the manufacturer papers.
Anon here
Decided to go with dark green Hammerite Smooth, it smells, but not that bad.
Doing a test paint on one of my 3D prints of Halo armor. First layer, applied mostly by foam roller in a thin coat, waiting for it to dry
Getting ready for paint
use rattlecan black gloss
The method I saw was:
Prep with scotchbrite pads and spic-n-span
Tremclad (Rustoleum) applied with small high density foam rollers
3 coats, wetsand between coats
Put on a quality wax job.
The results looked nice.
- - -
I did a single coat on a beater work truck on just the bad spots and practiced pinstriping it.
The paint job held up just fine.
Yeah, I am doing something similar, but will do 5 coats just to be sure. The finish will be done with polishing paste
True Gritt customs on youtube goes through his entire painting process if you can understand him. Has some gorgeous paint jobs.