>mostly chinkshit >$30-45 CHINKSHIT
FFS anon just get a FAT wrench at that point holy frick. You're already spending that much on a torque screwdriver, so do it right and make sure you're getting it from a brand that's at least known to have some quality control. That's what every one but the Weaver is cloning anyways going off how they look. Never used Weaver's and they've pretty much been sold off as nothing more than a name as of a few years ago.
ehh, just tighten the screws bit by bit in a star pattern and it'll be evened up by the end.
i torqued them all to 18, it seems fine i dont wanna frick with it
Not op but bumping with scope questions. Whats the best way to level your scope reticle?
None of these anons know how to install a scope or rings. You may well have damaged the scope OP so listen and learn. Step one is to get set of good scope rings and a piece of aluminium rod with the same diameter as your scope. Put the bottom rings on and tighten them up so they hold but still have movment, drop the bar in, you are going to use the bar to make sure the rings go in in a way so they don't put stress on the scope tube you see. start with the front one and tighten it a bit and check the bar is still lying smug in the back, what you are aiming for is the central axis of the bar is in line with the barrel muzzle and that the bar lies in perfect full contact with the ring bases. Then pop on the ring tops and check that they also are secured evenly and without creating pressure points. Then cjeck the level of your scope ring bases and secure your sock with that level and pop your scope in and set its cross hairs off a level too. Otherwise you will have cant now wind in the tops of the rings one half turn at a time on each until the scope is in level. You would be amazed at how many people don;t know how to do this and can't shoot for shit with 1000$+ scopes. misaligned rings will when tightened place massive strain on scope tubes and can damage scopes, scopes that are not aligned with the bore axis or have canted horizontal sites are pretty useless at any significant range. If you are shooting at range add an inclinometer and a spirit bubble to your scope. Most rangefinders have inclinometers as well but they won't necessarily have as exact a reading as one on the gun
Don't torque each individual screws to the max torque value right off the bat, go slowly on each screws in a X/criss-cross pattern until each screw reaches the max torque value.
Nope, most common way to ruin a scope is to throw rings on and tighten away and canted scopes are fricking uselsss you want it bore alligned to as you only have so much field of view and clicks and want that centre. Also your cheekweld should be set by your stock length which is particular to your arm length and that dives you the point you want the rear lens in so you have a fixed position that is correct for your eye on the scope that is repeatable, eye relief is different from person to person.
I had some bad rings and I had to leave a gap like that because otherwise it would start bending the tube. It was still fine on top of a FAL out to 300. Probably wouldn't recommend if you had a Swarovski you were shooting out to 1000 but for an old Leupold or poortex it doesn't matter
I tried that - not a paper on the wall but a plumb bob on a string and it came out crooked. I tried putting a bubble level on the rail and another on the turret and it came out crooked. The only way I could get it to look straight was to eyeball it. Is there a different way that you would show maybe a moron if they asked? Or should I just not frick with it at this point?
My issue was more that the turrets were canted relative to the rifle. I think maybe the pic rail bubble level I got off Amazon wasnt so great? Or maybe the scope was moving as id tighten the rings? I’m almost certainly moronic and a noob and doing it wrong
Only buy scope rings and mounts that can be used with the arisaka leveling kit
Buy and arisaka leveling kit. I am. Not joking this is honestly the best decision to make.
Just eyeball it. The internal friction in bubble levels makes them less accurate than your eye
If the top of whatever it's going on is flat you can line it up really easily with a straight edge between it and the bottom of the scope
The problem is it needs to be level to the gun. If the gun is clamped immovable and perfectly level, then you can just level the scope. However, this is almost never the case and it's hard to even check. So you level the scope off a second level clamped to the barrel. The Arisaka thing will get you pretty close but I prefer actual levels.
If what you mean is, "How do I tell if my reticle is level when I go to shoot it?" You can either just eyeball it, assuming things that should be vertical are and lining your scope up with the world justly, or you can buy a level that gets clamped on to the scope and left there.
Ignore all the previous replies. They don't understand boot camp level ballistics. It doesnt need to be level, it just needs to be at the same angle you had it when you zero'd it. This is why you "level" the reticle by picking up the gun in a comfortable fashion, shouldering it, looking through the scope and adjusting it until you think its level, and call it good enough.
ackshually all that matters is that the reticle is square with gravity at the time you are trying to use it. you could drill and tap the side of your receiver and shoot homie style as long as the reticle is oriented correctly. likewise you could have everything set up perfectly but then be standing on a hill when you shoot and it will be off because your whole body is canted.
That doesnt matter. You could totally learn to shoot with the reticle in a X orientation, and as long as you can hold it in the same orientation every time, you'd be making the same hits. Only flaw in my plan i can think of is that christmas tree reticles become useless.
yes if you are a fudd and zero your scope at 100 yards and never touch it again it doesn't matter, but if you ever want to turn the dials or use the subtensions the reticle has to be normal to gravity.
Well yeah if you had your reticle in the X you would obviously still have to shoot with the reticle "level", essentially turning it into an offset scope.
It's not just the drop reticle. The bullet will no longer rise straight up or fall straight down because your barrel is pointing to the side. This means you will get left or right error at distances other than your exact sight in.
If we are seriously considering the X meme, you throw in an extra click or two for every 100m to the spin drift chart. Or you zero it to shoot slightly left or right (which you are supposed to be doing anyway).
If youre talking about leveling the scope by hand, the difference is going to be less than the clicks on your rifle anyway.
Yes, but don't tighten them more, you can break the windage adjustment on your scope. Undo the screws then do them again. One full turn per screw, going in an X pattern.
You set the level on the empty rail or scope mount and clamp the other one onto the barrel.
You make the one clamped on the barrel match the one resting on the rail. If you don't have a rail, put the scope ring on and set the level across the empty bottom half of the scope ring. Once you have the barrel clamp level matched to the receiver, as described above, you then install the scope. Once the scope is loosely clamped in place, use the level on the top turret cap of the optic so that it matches the level clamped on barrel. >put level on receiver. >clamp level to barrel to match. >put level on turret and make it match barrel.
Once the scope is level, use a torque wrench to slowly and carefully torque down the clamps making sure they are level on both sides.
If you have bought super cheap rings, you should lap them. That requires a lapping kit. You can look that up on youtube but it's honestly beyond you at this point in your shooting career.
no, just redo it so the gap is even on both sides.
This and use a torque wrench. If you don't have a torque wrench, buy a torque wrench.
>mostly chinkshit
>$30-45 CHINKSHIT
FFS anon just get a FAT wrench at that point holy frick. You're already spending that much on a torque screwdriver, so do it right and make sure you're getting it from a brand that's at least known to have some quality control. That's what every one but the Weaver is cloning anyways going off how they look. Never used Weaver's and they've pretty much been sold off as nothing more than a name as of a few years ago.
None of these anons know how to install a scope or rings. You may well have damaged the scope OP so listen and learn. Step one is to get set of good scope rings and a piece of aluminium rod with the same diameter as your scope. Put the bottom rings on and tighten them up so they hold but still have movment, drop the bar in, you are going to use the bar to make sure the rings go in in a way so they don't put stress on the scope tube you see. start with the front one and tighten it a bit and check the bar is still lying smug in the back, what you are aiming for is the central axis of the bar is in line with the barrel muzzle and that the bar lies in perfect full contact with the ring bases. Then pop on the ring tops and check that they also are secured evenly and without creating pressure points. Then cjeck the level of your scope ring bases and secure your sock with that level and pop your scope in and set its cross hairs off a level too. Otherwise you will have cant now wind in the tops of the rings one half turn at a time on each until the scope is in level. You would be amazed at how many people don;t know how to do this and can't shoot for shit with 1000$+ scopes. misaligned rings will when tightened place massive strain on scope tubes and can damage scopes, scopes that are not aligned with the bore axis or have canted horizontal sites are pretty useless at any significant range. If you are shooting at range add an inclinometer and a spirit bubble to your scope. Most rangefinders have inclinometers as well but they won't necessarily have as exact a reading as one on the gun
>2024
>still using redfield type bases
ehh, just tighten the screws bit by bit in a star pattern and it'll be evened up by the end.
i torqued them all to 18, it seems fine i dont wanna frick with it
Don't torque each individual screws to the max torque value right off the bat, go slowly on each screws in a X/criss-cross pattern until each screw reaches the max torque value.
?t=1055
yeah i did that. i guess not well though
>asks if he fricked up
>is told, yes you fricked up and here's how to fix it
>doesn't want to do anything about it now that he knows he fricked up
Claims to have used a torque wrench and doesn't want to take 2 minutes to fix it. Even money says he didn't use his own torque wrench.
>asks if i fricked up
>"no not really but do this"
>does it
>doesn't type my day into PrepHole
sorry, i own the left one btw homosexual
It's probably fine anyway as long as the scope doesn't move around
Nope, most common way to ruin a scope is to throw rings on and tighten away and canted scopes are fricking uselsss you want it bore alligned to as you only have so much field of view and clicks and want that centre. Also your cheekweld should be set by your stock length which is particular to your arm length and that dives you the point you want the rear lens in so you have a fixed position that is correct for your eye on the scope that is repeatable, eye relief is different from person to person.
I had some bad rings and I had to leave a gap like that because otherwise it would start bending the tube. It was still fine on top of a FAL out to 300. Probably wouldn't recommend if you had a Swarovski you were shooting out to 1000 but for an old Leupold or poortex it doesn't matter
Not op but bumping with scope questions. Whats the best way to level your scope reticle?
>level rifle first
>hang a piece of paper with a level line on the wall in front of the rifle
>adjust scope reticle to papar
I tried that - not a paper on the wall but a plumb bob on a string and it came out crooked. I tried putting a bubble level on the rail and another on the turret and it came out crooked. The only way I could get it to look straight was to eyeball it. Is there a different way that you would show maybe a moron if they asked? Or should I just not frick with it at this point?
the plumb bob is correct, you are tilting your head
My issue was more that the turrets were canted relative to the rifle. I think maybe the pic rail bubble level I got off Amazon wasnt so great? Or maybe the scope was moving as id tighten the rings? I’m almost certainly moronic and a noob and doing it wrong
make sure your rifle is level first
Arisaka
This is the tard-proof tier solution I was looking for. Thank you anon
Go get a bore site and level the laser that comes out. you have to blow dust on it though so you can see it properly.
>level rifle
how
with a level homie. figure it out
Only buy scope rings and mounts that can be used with the arisaka leveling kit
Buy and arisaka leveling kit. I am. Not joking this is honestly the best decision to make.
>arisaka leveling kit
>$38
i have one that came for free with some chink scope
Just make sure it's in line with the vertical axis of the bore. No need to level anything, except barrel and scope relative to each other.
Just eyeball it. The internal friction in bubble levels makes them less accurate than your eye
If the top of whatever it's going on is flat you can line it up really easily with a straight edge between it and the bottom of the scope
The problem is it needs to be level to the gun. If the gun is clamped immovable and perfectly level, then you can just level the scope. However, this is almost never the case and it's hard to even check. So you level the scope off a second level clamped to the barrel. The Arisaka thing will get you pretty close but I prefer actual levels.
If what you mean is, "How do I tell if my reticle is level when I go to shoot it?" You can either just eyeball it, assuming things that should be vertical are and lining your scope up with the world justly, or you can buy a level that gets clamped on to the scope and left there.
Ignore all the previous replies. They don't understand boot camp level ballistics. It doesnt need to be level, it just needs to be at the same angle you had it when you zero'd it. This is why you "level" the reticle by picking up the gun in a comfortable fashion, shouldering it, looking through the scope and adjusting it until you think its level, and call it good enough.
ackshually all that matters is that the reticle is square with gravity at the time you are trying to use it. you could drill and tap the side of your receiver and shoot homie style as long as the reticle is oriented correctly. likewise you could have everything set up perfectly but then be standing on a hill when you shoot and it will be off because your whole body is canted.
That doesnt matter. You could totally learn to shoot with the reticle in a X orientation, and as long as you can hold it in the same orientation every time, you'd be making the same hits. Only flaw in my plan i can think of is that christmas tree reticles become useless.
yes if you are a fudd and zero your scope at 100 yards and never touch it again it doesn't matter, but if you ever want to turn the dials or use the subtensions the reticle has to be normal to gravity.
Well yeah if you had your reticle in the X you would obviously still have to shoot with the reticle "level", essentially turning it into an offset scope.
It's not just the drop reticle. The bullet will no longer rise straight up or fall straight down because your barrel is pointing to the side. This means you will get left or right error at distances other than your exact sight in.
If we are seriously considering the X meme, you throw in an extra click or two for every 100m to the spin drift chart. Or you zero it to shoot slightly left or right (which you are supposed to be doing anyway).
If youre talking about leveling the scope by hand, the difference is going to be less than the clicks on your rifle anyway.
Just pay a gunsmith like 30 bucks to do it for you OP. If you dont have a vice and multiple bubble levels it's more trouble than it's worth.
Good choice with the T3X by the way. I get sub moa accuracy from mine.
LGS told me they’d take it in but it was a 2 month wait before the smith started working on what was already a pretty long queue
then go to a not-so-local gun store.
Unscrew, tighten on diagonals, just like a tire.
If the bracket was made for the scope, it'll be snug and flush.
Yes, but don't tighten them more, you can break the windage adjustment on your scope. Undo the screws then do them again. One full turn per screw, going in an X pattern.
>you can break the windage adjustment
oh shit that's concerning, you know how i can check this for peace of mind?
You set the level on the empty rail or scope mount and clamp the other one onto the barrel.
You make the one clamped on the barrel match the one resting on the rail. If you don't have a rail, put the scope ring on and set the level across the empty bottom half of the scope ring. Once you have the barrel clamp level matched to the receiver, as described above, you then install the scope. Once the scope is loosely clamped in place, use the level on the top turret cap of the optic so that it matches the level clamped on barrel.
>put level on receiver.
>clamp level to barrel to match.
>put level on turret and make it match barrel.
Once the scope is level, use a torque wrench to slowly and carefully torque down the clamps making sure they are level on both sides.
If you have bought super cheap rings, you should lap them. That requires a lapping kit. You can look that up on youtube but it's honestly beyond you at this point in your shooting career.
?t=475
it's easy
level rifle, level scope, use some loctite, torque to spec, bore sight something at 50 yards, wala