Is there a way to fill a long crack like this so that it doesn't show? Google said clear epoxy, but when I tried that it just stuck to the surface without seeping into the crack.
>just get new glass bro
I know I'll have to eventually. Just looking for a temporary fix until then.
Pic related is the epoxy I tried using. The crack is only on the inside panel.
plate glass repair kits will cost more than that window.
nothing you can do to make it invisible.
It doesn't need to be invisible, just less conspicuous. I'm basically looking for a <$30 patch up job that will last until I get the new glass delivered.
>plate glass repair kits
How good are the results from those? Not that I'm going to buy one just for this, but are they a good long-term investment?
That would make it even more conspicuous, especially from the outside. I may try painting it though. Maybe a good coat of gloss could make it look like a PVC panel.
>I'm basically looking for a <$30 patch up job that will last until I get the new glass delivered.
Clear packing tape.
>The crack is only on the inside panel.
it's over
just call a glass company to replace the glass its cheap
I know it needs new glass. Just looking for a cosmetic solution in the meantime.
Good idea. What about the smaller cracks though? They don't go all the way across, so they don't form separate pieces. Is there a way to get the epoxy into them?
>I know it needs new glass. Just looking for a cosmetic solution in the meantime.
packing tape.
>in the meantime
What's the delay?
>What's the delay?
Ordering new glass and waiting for it to arrive. Unless I get really lucky and somewhere local has the right size in stock. For now I've just taped it up and put it back in the frame.
Weatherproofing tape on the outside for safety.
>somewhere local has the right size in stock
What the frick are you talking about?
You know glass is cut to size, right?
You can go to Lowes with dimensions and have glass cut. This afternoon.
I didn't know that until today - never had to order glass before. Just ordered a sealed double glazing unit and it's supposed to arrive within 28 days.
Again, you can go over there and they will cut a pane of glass to your dimensions right there in front of you, wrap it in butcher paper, and you walk out with it minutes later.
You could also buy the whole big pane and cut it yourself. (Score along a straight edge and break -- not hard.)
I can't just get a single pane though, it has to be a sealed double glazing unit to match the other windows around it. I also live in Nowheresville, so its cheaper to have these kind of things delivered than to drive there myself.
Thanks for your advice anyway, I'll remember for the future. I've measured the glass unit and ordered a matching one now. If this thread is still alive when it arrives I'll post results.
Just out of curiosity - does anyone know why some windows are built with external beads? Feels like a big security blunder to have a window that can be dismantled from the outside with nothing but a mallet and pallet knife.
>Feels like a big security blunder to have a window that can be dismantled from the outside with nothing but a mallet and pallet knife
Why would they bother doing that if they can just smash the glass with the mallet and reach inside to open the window? Security measures only keep out honest people. A criminal is going to get the window open regardless of which side the glass comes out from.
>it has to be a sealed double glazing unit to match the other windows around it
Why? You just disassembled it in your photo. Replace the single pane that's broken. Leave the other pane in place.
>measured the glass unit
I bet a toonie that the unit to get will be too small.
>security blunder to have a window that can be dismantled
Windows are not security devices. If you want both glass and security, you add cage. Bars or internal to the glass or otherwise.
>You just disassembled it in your photo.
I only took the unit out of the frame, rather than disassemble the unit itself. Also taking it out made a hairline crack in the outer pane, so both now need replacing. It's a very old unit anyway, so don't really mind replacing the whole thing.
>I bet a toonie that the unit to get will be too small.
Why? I gave them all the measurements. Would you normally round them up or something?
What kind of window do you have?
>You just disassembled it in your photo. Replace the single pane that's broken. Leave the other pane in place.
Double pane glass isn't just two panes of glass sandwiched with spacers around the perimeter.
The void between the panes is filled with argon gas (or sometimes krypton gas) at very low humidity. The high density of the argon gas limits the amount of thermal energy that can transfer from one pane to the other making the window assembly a lot more energy efficient, and the gas having been "dried" to a low humidity prevents any condensation from forming.
If you just assemble two panes of glass with normal air in between, not only is the energy efficiency going to be considerably lower, but since normal air contains water vapor you're likely to get hazing or even water/ice forming in between the panes when the temperature gets low.
>energy efficient
don't care
>water vapor
desiccant pack
>Just out of curiosity - does anyone know why some windows are built with external beads?
because no matter how well you seal the exterior face of the glass, water will eventually get behind that stop and putting it on the outside lets that moisture escape. Its really important with wooden sash and glazed doors, install french doors with the stickered side out and they will begin to rot at the lower edge of each lite without scrupulous paint maintenance.
the other reason even where rot isnt an issue is that in the case of a break you can do all the remaining cutting out of the broken glass and glazing replacement from outside where all the debris falling isnt nearly as big a deal.
So does the sticker on the inside prevent the glass from being pulled out from the outside? Or could a burglar apply sufficient leverage to get it out? I just don't like the idea of having a portal to my house that can be removed from the outside.
Doesn't really matter, does it? Glass can be broken. A double hung, casement, or awning window can be forced open by using a pry bar on the sash to bend/break the interior latching mechanism. A Burglar isn't going to take the time to remove the retaining strips to carefully get the glass out of the window sash when the above options are both faster and easier. Your concern would only really be alleviated by installing window bars.
>Your concern would only really be alleviated by installing window bars.
I've got these in my basement windows ... they're on the other side of my house from my bedroom, so I wouldn't hear if someone broke in.
That basement room has my gaming computer and VR headset in plain view, so I wanted to discourage an opportunistic burgler.
I put a translucent window film on them too so nobody could look in to see.
I think it does matter, because making noise and leaving evidence are generally how criminals get caught. Leaving a silent, non-destructive option is not a good deterent.
How strong are those? The one in your picture looks like it's only attached to the window frame by a few screws. Do yours have more attachments?
>physical pressure
What's the technique for this? When I tried pushing in epoxy it just smushed onto the surface.
>I think it does matter, because making noise and leaving evidence are generally how criminals get caught. Leaving a silent, non-destructive option is not a good deterent.
You're being ridiculous. No house burglar is going to bother with removing the glass all stealthy like just to confound investigators from figuring out how he gained access. Do you think you're a high value target like a pharmacy/jeweler/bank/pawnbroker/gun shop?
>No house burglar is going to bother with removing the glass all stealthy
Why not? That's exactly what I would do in his place.
No, but the adhesive quality of the sealant in a properly bedded glazing panel in a door or window will be concentrated on that area which necessitates having access to that side to cut that sealant bead (and not with a just a pallette knife) *IF* you are trying to de-glaze that unit without breaking the panel or damaging the door/window.
Your notion of how simple it is to remove that kind of panel seriously overestimates the ease and speed of that operation; even when they're broken the perimeter of the glazing panel and any shards connected to it are glued in/on the frame using very tenacious industrial adhesive sealants.
>it's supposed to arrive within 28 days
Take that pane to a local glass shop and they'll have a new one made up for you within a day or two unless they're really busy.
I live in Nowheresville, A Rural County, Europe. The nearest people I could find are over 40 miles away, so would rather pay for delivery.
There are local window fitters, but AFAIK they want you to pay for fitting. I just want the glass made so I can DIY the thing.
Sure, but then you attract attention from the smashing sounds, plus you leave evidence of a break in. Also there is no legitimate reason for smashing a window, whereas if you carefully remove the glass the victim's neighbours might mistake you for a tradesman.
>cosmetic solution
there's no such thing as "cosmetic solution" for a fricking broken glass pane
it will be visible no matter what bullshit "cosmetic solution" you apply
>stuck to the surface without seeping into the crack
Actual glass repair shops use compressed air or a vacuum to force the epoxy into the void.
Might as well take it out of the frame, line the cracks with epoxy while they are separated, and then smush them back together before it sets.
Measure it too while it's out, so you're ready to replace it when you frick it up, lol.
To make it work you'd either need positive air pressure on the side you're applying the epoxy to force the epoxy into the cracks, or negative air pressure on the opposite side to pull the epoxy into the cracks. However, since this is double pane glass you're only left with the positive air pressure option since you don't have access to both sides of the glass pane. The problem there is with the size of the cracks you're dealing with you're looking at creating high pressure over pretty much the entire window, which I don't know how you'd create while still giving you access to the glass to apply the epoxy.
I'd just leave it as it is until you can get it replaced.
>since you don't have access to both sides of the glass pane
How would you do it if you had access to both sides? I'll have to remove it for measuring anyway, so I can order new glass. Might as well separate the pane from the spacer and have a go at patching it if there's a way.
>water thin adhesive like crazy glue
Which one would you use? I've heard of people using superglue or nail polish before. Do you know which adhesive is the thinnest?
>Might as well separate the pane from the spacer
Don't bother trying that, you'd never get it back together in any way that would be better than it is currently. The adhesives that are typically used to join those multi pane panels is fricking crazy, you'd be likely to destroy the cracked pane, if not both panes, when attempting to separate them.
Do what everyone is telling you to do and just leave it alone until you can get replacement glass.
>leave it alone until you can get replacement glass
I decided to take your advice and tried to remove the glass to measure it for a replacement, but now there's a bigger problem. The glazing beads are just not coming off with any pallet knife I use.
>inb4 just pull harder
One of my attempts has made a small hairline crack in the outside pane, so the amount of force is not the issue.
>inb4 you're moronic
Yes, please help.
Sorry if this is unclear, I'm ESL and don't know the correct terms. You have to remove the side panels first. Then the bottom. Then the top. Be sure to get someone to help you and wear gloves. The glass is sharp.
Thanks Anon, I got it out now. Turns out I was pulling it from the wrong edge all along. This window has a very tight seam on the outside edge that you can just about get a knife into, then the beads pop out.
>Tape it up
>motivated to fix it
>professionals tape it
Well I've just measured it up to order a replacement, so it's definitely getting fixed. Just don't want it to look ugly in the meantime.
Very tempting idea. Not sure about the clown though.
Make a dick sticker to cover the crack then.
The problem is that what you see is light reflection off the angle created by the break that goes through the entire thickness of the panel. Even the stuff glass shops use with a vacuum to suck it in won't make that deep a crack invisible, those kinds ofcrepairs only look good with surface cracks that don't go all the way through.
If you really want to try anyway, use a water thin adhesive like crazy glue that can wick into and across the crack through capillary action.
I've mended auto glass before using the resin stuff that cures in UV light. It's not easy to get the stuff into a crack without pressure devices like the pros have, but by pushing gently on the panel and heating it with a torch you can fill it in pretty well. May not make it invisible, but it will keep water out and prevent it from expanding.
Thanks, I may try something like that if I can ever get the glass out.
Rainbows wouldn't match the frame, but at this point I am thinking of just giving up and painting over it.
Everyone I live with knows what I've done and that I'm repairing it.
>Just tell her, so she can pay to get it repaired correctly.
Really wish someone would do that at this point, but no I have to fix it myself. My budget allows for new glass, not the cost of a window fitter to do it for me.
JUST print someshit on sticky transparent paper that covers the crack. No-one will ever know.
put a rainbow blm banner over it
Mommy is going to find out you cracked her window spazzing out after losing a gaymer match on your PS5. Just tell her, so she can pay to get it repaired correctly.
nick demanded the youtube account back
Just fricking tape it up.
And when you feel angry that it looks like shit, you'll be motivated to fix it correctly and replace the glass.
If you hack together a "good enough" fix, you're going to be stuck with it for years.
And feel bad that it's not fixed correctly, but not bad enough to do anything about it.
At least I know I would.
previous owner of my house did this (a "good enough" fix) and it's always bothered me.
I didn't realize how cheap glass was until now. I'm gonna fix this shit.
Tape it up. When the glass guy came out replace mine he actually wondered if someone saw it before because it was taped up and said that's usually what they do
That only works on small chips, the little clear cup goes over the chip so you can use pressure to force the epoxy into it. Won't work on OP's situation.
Actually that resin, and that kit in particular, can be used for even long cracks. I've used it on my windshield which had several long cracks and it filled most of them in pretty well and they haven't expanded. You just have to work it in with heat or physical pressure on the panel rather than rely on the little suction tool.
>Is there a way to fill a long crack like this so that it doesn't show? Google said clear epoxy, but when I tried that it just stuck to the surface without seeping into the crack.
>>just get new glass bro
>I know I'll have to eventually. Just looking for a temporary fix until then.
You would need to use oil, maybe a penetrating mineral oil? Oil has the same refractive index as glass so it would hide the crack. Nothing else will work.
Thanks. I've taped over it now, but I'll try it when I change the glass just to see if it would have worked.
I meant to type "pane".
>desiccant pack
Where would you put it? Inside the frame?
>I meant to type "pane".
I know.
It's over.
>Where would you put it? Inside the frame?
Yup.
If you're so concerned with special farts in your windows: mix baking soda and vinegar in a storage bin and do your final assembly in it to fill with CO2.
But where do you put the dessicant? If it's inside the frame there will be a visible pack of desiccant between the panes of glass.
Also what adhesive would you use to make sure the airtight seal lasts for years?
>baking soda and vinegar
horrible idea it will be extremely humid due to all the evaporating vinegar and the bubbles forming a mist.
plus the whole thing will stink of vinegar for a long time.
How do double glazing suppliers do it then? Do they have some kind of argon chamber?
well obviously they just buy bottles of nitrogen or argon or whatever inert gas is the cheapest, and then they have a port that they blow it into. then they plug it up.
What do they plug it with that will last though? Kind of relates to my earlier question about adhesives.
The same sealant they use to seal the rest of the panel perimeter, could be silicone or butyl rubber or urethane or almost anything sticky and flexible when cured. The fill hole is very small (maybe 4mm) and there's enough space between where it penetrates the spacer and the edge of the glass to pack with sealant that it makes a cured block that wont come out.
Picrel is a hand applied hot melt butyl rubber system typical of a small shop that makes IG panels, this video shows an automated system making the final seal after gas charging through a hole located in the last corner to be sealed-
>butyl rubber
Thanks Anon. So what do they use to stick the panes together before they are sealed?
More than you ever wanted to know about how its done-
How-To: Patch the Fourth Corner on an IG Unit
Sorry, Try this url
Not sure why it won't link, Google the title if you care.
I did. Thanks Anon.
stupid PrepHole wordfilter is changing the url from onions to based
Thanks Anon, I found it.
They make the panels up with a small area for a gas fill tube to fit, pump in argon that displaces the air, and overpressurize it just enough that no air can get back in as they seal the fill hole.
To deal with any moisture that may still be present the spacer systems use various schemes; some older ones have loose dessicant inside the metal spacer tube with tiny vent holes to allow moisture inside thevpanel environment to be drawn inside and held, some use rubber that has desiccant qualities integrated with the formula...keeping the heat conduction low at the edges by insulating or eliminating metal spacers also helps prevent what moisture may remain after gas charging from condensing on the inside faces of the glass in the first place.
https://www.replacement-windows.com/spacers/
Is Argon the best, or is there a better gas if you're willing to pay for it?
Sometimes krypton or xenon are used, as they have lower thermal conductivity than argon does, but they're more expensive gasses so using argon a lot more is common.
Thermal conductivity, W/(m K):
0.0240 - air
0.0160 - argon
0.0093 - krypton
0.0057 - xenon
>xenon
Isn't that what they use in car headlights? Could you get a window to light up if you ran a current to it?
OP here. Got an order confirmation from pic rel. Should arrive in two weeks. Weatherproofing tape is holding up well, so I'll just leave it for now.
When I take the old glass out I'll try this idea with mineral oil, just to see if it works.
here
?t=51
OP here. I tried your mineral oil idea on the old glass just to see if it would work. It didn't, but the oil I used wasn't specifically a penetrating oil so maybe it would work with a different oil.
If you want to fix a crack invisible what you need is optical glue that cures to a refractive index equal to that of glass.
In this case it's not worth it because a double glazed unit will be 'blown' when cracked and steam up every time the weather changes.
Glad you figured out the upvc glazing beads come out sidewards, good job.
What a fricking shitshow of a thread, add windows to the list of things americans will confidently shout at you to do their moronic way because they have no idea how civilised countries operate.
>What a fricking shitshow of a thread, add windows to the list of things americans will confidently shout at you to do their moronic way because they have no idea how civilised countries operate.
add windows to the list of things non-americans will faux- confidently shout about as examples of their allegedly superior "civilization" while ignoring the fact that Americans don't have to give a tiny fraction of a single frick about what kind of windows other people use, either for technical reasons or when desperately grasping for self esteem while claiming that imaginary Americans are "shouting" at them.
>Glad you figured out the upvc glazing beads come out sidewards, good job.
Thanks Anon. Could have used your help before, but thanks anyway.
get a little suction cup and use that to force the epoxy into the crack, then wipe up the excess
>suction cup
Would that work without a pump? I could try this on one crack and other anon's mineral oil idea on another to see what happens.
Thanks Anon.
Thank anon.
OP here. Glass is supposed to arrive in 4 days. I'll post an update with pictures.
Is the glass there yet?
It's supposed to arrive tomorrow, but they've already delayed it once. I'll take a picture when it gets here.
Update: It's now supposed to arrive on Friday. That's the second time they delayed this order and they didn't even warn me, so I stayed in to collect it for nothing. If you ever need glass in the UK, do not use these frickers.
Almost every UK SME business does this shit. Just dogshit service all around.
This is why you should have had the glass shop that's 40 minutes away make it. You could have gotten the replacement glass and fixed the window a couple weeks ago. Now you've caused this project to take 2 or 3 weeks longer than it needed to be (or longer depending on when that replacement glass shows up) to just to save an hour and a half of driving.
The only one I could find with decent prices was 40 miles away, not 40 minutes. Total journey would take about 2 hours. I don't know where you are, but fuel is expensive here so I don't want to drive that far just to get one item.
You may still be right though, given how many businesses do this (as
pointed out). Anyway, it was sold with free delivery within 28 working days, so if it's not here by the 6th I'll just tell them they can refund me or go to small claims court.
We used to use UV glass glue to join corners at enclosures, get some good UV goggles and a strong light and it sets quickly and reasonably strong
Would it fix a crack, or do you just mean you could put panes together to make your own sealed unit?
Both probably, it's used for making meme frameless corner units
How do they do the curved ones? All one piece?
hot glass bends
Can you do that with a double glazing unit though? Or do the panes have to be bent separately and sealed on site?
They're made in a shop like any other dual glazed panel, just using slumped glass made using a form, and flexible spacer material.
>no corner structural support
I'm sure it's safe and all, but my anxiety would be constant if I were in that building.
It's the kind of thing I imagine an evil genius would have to intimidate/remove people. Along with the indoor piranha pond and dramatic entrance through a rotating wall.
>Just looking for a temporary fix until then.
just like your shed, eh?
>shed
Someone else did that awful patch job. I've got felt and wood to repair it, but the indoor stuff comes first.
The new glass arrived, so I'll fit it in the morning and post an update.
Update: It doesn't fit in the frame. It's the correct length, but about 3 mm too tall to fit.
Would sanding it work? I only need a few millimetres off the edges and it will fit (snugly) in the frame.
You may as well give it a try at this point. I doubt you could return that since things that are fabricated to a custom size rarely are, on top of the fact that it's wrong because you fricked up, not them. Worst case scenario is trying to sand it breaks it and you have to wait another month for a new panel, which you would have had to do anyway because of it being the wrong size.
I'll try it in the morning and report back.
>manage it without fricking up the spacer
There's a good amount of overhang around the edges, so I think I can take off about 2mm off the top without touching the spacer. Repeat for the bottom and it should fit.
>spacers
It's hard to describe, but the frame isn't like the standard window frames you see in youtube tutorials. It has a recess inside the frame that the glass slots into. The old one had spacers on top and bottom to fit in the recess, but not on the sides. This left a gap between the spacers and the rest of the frame. I'll see if I can get a good picture to show you tomorrow.
This is how it looks with the glazing beads removed. The little blue spacers don't touch the main edge of the frame, only the edge of the recess at the back.
Here it is with no glass. The new unit almost goes in, but it catches on the lip that holds the glazing beads.
I don't know if the beads would still fit if I shave the lip down.
The internal rim part?
Well it looks pretty small I would suggest if you are going to sand it down do it in the bath underwater or something. You can cut glass with scissors underwater because of the...idk but it will save you from the dust too which will absolutely frick you up.
Can you take off enough without blowing the seal?
Good luck lol great thread very entertaining.
Also you could just check gumtree for similar sized windows? Worth a shot.
>electric sander underwater
>glass cutting scissors
I'm not that kind of moronic.
go on youtube and type in "glass scissors underwater" dickhead
Interesting, but this is 4mm float glass. You'd need a tool with more leverage.
I can see that there is something blue there, but that's about it. If you want the picture to be useful, then make sure your camera is focused on what you are trying to show. I can see the pipe in the background quite clearly however.
Because the window can be opened it's supposed to be installed with spacers that distribute the weight correctly. It's more of an issue the larger the window is, so you may be able to get away with not thinking about it, but it's not ideal to not do so. Both for the stresses on the glass and on the hinge of the window.
I would avoid messing with the lip. It's so easy to bend or otherwise damage and it's a bit of a pain if you can't get the beads to lock in. If you shave down the lip holding the beads then there is good chance that you have to replace the entire window instead of just the glass. There is no reasonable way to fix that if you frick up the mounting mechanism.
It's not easy to see from your pictures, but the gasket material looks completely shot as well. All of that needs to be removed and replaced with a gasket of the right size and profile. If you get the mounting pressure too wrong (or if you frick up the application) then your window will either be at risk of breaking again very soon, or you will have issues with moisture and air leakage.
Update: It's working, just really slowly. Maybe half a millimetre per hour at most. On the bright side it's weirdly relaxing to sand something for that long while your safety glasses slowly steam up. Feels a bit like swimming.
It gets past the lip now, but won't go in the recess. I'm thinking of just getting new glass instead of sinking more time into this.
I found someone closer who will just sell me the glass without charging for fitting. I have to pick it up myself, but it's not too far. Going there today.
Here's the new one. I measured it and it's correct to the nearest millimetre.
16h later is it in yet
It fits. I just need to clean everything, seal it and put the beads back.
There's a load of old gasket I need to scrape off to make a clean seal though.
Scrubbed and scraped it with denatured alcohol, then acetone. Finally rinsed with bleach.
Sealant round the edge. Inserted glass and spacers. Everything fits.
jesus h christ is this a joke? almost 2 months to do a 3 day job and you end up by dropping your drawers and taking a huge shit all over it?
Welcome to PrepHole DIY, where autists over-complicate and frick up simple tasks, after weeks of anxiety and hand wringing and making mutliple threads.
OP here. I genuinely don't understand what anons are saying I've done wrong here. There was an adhesive strip of gasket material which I had to cut to remove the old glass. I scraped the remains of that away and used an outdoor sealant for the new glass. What am I missing?
Cleaned the windows with windowlene. Still looks ok to me.
Wide view.
Here's the finished job with a net curtain.
Just my luck. Got everything clean and streak-free, then it rains. Still, it should give me a chance to see if the seal holds up.
Thunderstorm has passed. No draughts, leaks or condensation so far.
So is it worth re-doing? What rate of decay are we talking about? For context, my window frames are already old so I probably won't have them more than another 5 years. That's how long the glass needs to last.
>is it worth re-doing?
No, it's already together. I would have used glazing tape, but it's possible silicone caulk might last. Worst case scenario is it starts leaking so you take it apart and redo it if that happens.
It's not silicone, it's evostick. If you think it will last a few years I'll just leave it though.
OP here with final picture update. Thanks for your help everyone.
That's what I said earlier ITT, but anons told me it's supposed to be that way. I checked downstairs and the trim is on the inside, so at least my ground floor is safe from burglars.
Whoever put these in is moronic, the removable trim should be on the inside otherwise a burglar can simply pop a window out and climb in silently.
Small window like that not such a big issue.
Point is trim that holds in on the outside should be weather tight, shouldnt need to rely on your silicone job to be weatherproof.
If it works leave it alone.
Worst case is some builder will have a good fricking laugh in a couple years.
>Whoever put these in is moronic, the removable trim should be on the inside
Surely you aren't suggesting that the installer should have put the windows in the other way around? Because that would mean that the latches would be on the outside of the house. And I think we can both agree that having the windows latch from the outside would be completely moronic from a security standpoint, right?
What you are missing is that there is a reason why no professional mounts glass in window frames using random outdoor sealant. Sealants are for sealing window frames and for adhesion, not for mounting the glass.
The gasket material was not there just for weather sealing, it was there to give the glass the correct mounting pressure. As you don't have that, the lifetime of that glass and your seal will likely be severely diminished.
Replaced the glazing beads and tidied up the edges.
What's the problem with it? I'm just waiting for it to dry so I can scrape off the excess.
Gently scraped the glass and rubbed it with acetone.
fricking hell i cant believe i got strung along on this thread for so long. gg op classic thread you are a hero.
just for completeness sake i will suggest that silicone sealant was not the correct gasket material, some solid rubber adhesive strip would have been more appropriate, easier and cleaner.
a tthe end of the day if it works it works
>for so long
Sorry about the wait. Didn't want to abandon the thread until it was done.
>you are a hero
Thanks Anon.
>silicone sealant was not the correct gasket
Pic related is the sealant I used. It's supposed to be stronger than silicone and suitable for outdoor use. The tube specifically says it can be used for window frames.
>some solid rubber adhesive strip would have been more appropriate
Do you think I should re-do it? Just checked online and there's a supplier in driving distance that does them.
When they talk about window frames they mean sealing a window frame to a wall not the glass to the frame.
I already told you use rubber strip not fluid dont push your luck
I already did it hours ago though, so is it worth re-doing or best to just leave it?
>a clean seal though.
BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAAHHHAA this aged quite well
you are not going to sand that much glass off of a fricking window, you have TWO FRICKING OPTIONS
A) order new glass
B)Modify the window opening
at this point in time we know you are an idiot, so just order new glass that fits this time, it's one less thing you can frick up
how did you measure it?
you measured the old unit right?
its supposed to be just undersized for the frame then you use glazing packers to position it in the hole.
if its wrong compared to what you ordered then first of all check the company you ordered from doesn't have some insane (3mm is a lot) tolerances listed, and then give them hell.
no don't sand it lol jesus christ are you made of money or something. sand the frame sure its just plastic right.
there arent packers stuck in the bottom of the frame or anything right?
>how did you measure it?
With a steel ruler.
>you measured the old unit right?
Yes.
>if its wrong compared to what you ordered
I triple checked it, but it looks like I got the height wrong.
>inb4 you're moronic
Yes.
>no don't sand it lol jesus christ are you made of money or something
Why not? It's just regular float glass, not tempered or anything.
>sand the frame sure its just plastic right
I don't think the glazing beads will work if I do that. There's a lip around the edge that they have to engage with.
>Why not? It's just regular float glass, not tempered or anything.
You can try, but sanding off enough while going slow enough to not crack the glass is really going to be miserable (assuming you can even manage it without fricking up the spacer) and take a lot of time (the theme of the thread seems to be spending a lot of time).
However, there is an issue remaining there. If it's so tight that you can't physically fit the glass when it's just 3mm bigger then the old one may have been too big as well and the new one is way too big.
There are supposed to be spacers (glazing packers) between the glass and the frame (often plastic, color coded to indicate the size) that you can change to get a bit of wiggle room on the glass sizing, but these also have several important functions. Most crucial short term is that they protect the edges of the glass from damage.
If you install it too tightly then you are just going to end up with the exact same issue again and a new cracked window.
This is why some glaziers really want to take their own measurements if they are going to install the glass for you. Because people who don't know what they are doing are going to mess it up and then blame the glazier down the line for the problem caused by the incorrect sizing.
This is correct. You need some wiggle room because the glass and the window frame expand and contract with heat & cold at different rates. If the glass fit is too tight, the frame could contract faster/more than the glass does which could lead to the glass breaking.
lmaaaao
>order glass for an existing window
>"oh idk it's about 20 inches tall i guess"
>arrives
>window isn't 20 inches tall
For frick's sake, it's been over 6 weeks and you still haven't managed to replace the pane of glass. What an absolute failure.
Almost two months. What a ride.