i decided i finally have to actually buy a cordless drill. which means that whichever one i pick, all the battery operated shit after is going to use the same battery brand.
i've been researching it and it seems like people choose a tool brand like they choose toothpaste. my dad always had dewalt shit, so i might just do the same.
are they all pretty much the same?
Dewalt or Milwaukee, you can't go wrong. I'm Bosch, but for a very specific, niche reason that's not important for most people.
yaeh in comparisons actually, people seem to lean harder on milwaukee. dewalt "looks better" because i'd always used them growing up. yellow just looks right.
12v and 18v, 12v is just a smaller lighter tool right? trading power for size?
12v honestly had a lot of power for carpenters, electricians and hvac techs.
I really only drag out my 18s when doing a lot of metal fab
12v is great for short, repetitive work
t. electrician
*as long as you have your 18V tools in the van
What do I need 18v tools for as an electrician oh wise one?
Please tell me how I and all my colleagues supposedly need to do our jobs.
You must be union and you want to take as long as possible to get shit done. I understand.
I would never buy Makita cordless, especially if you’re going with the 40V line exclusively, very limited lineup of larger tools and the shit like the XGT drill and 1/4” impact driver are just more expensive versions of the 18V tools that run off a different voltage. Makita is fairly moronic with their battery compatibility, probably the worst between the big brands because their 18V maxes out at 6Ah and a lot of the earlier packs won’t fit certain tools. Also the 40V line is definitely designed for people who already own 18V tools, it’s supplemental larger tools, and some of the large 40V tools have 36V (2x18v) alternatives and you can use those batteries for normal tools.
It sounds like that anon has a bunch of shitty old corded drills, not 8 different battery platforms.
nah i have 5 different brands of batteries and chargers kek i work for a company that installs kitchens and bathrooms for home depot sometimes i get free stuff or discounted stuff
> 12v less power?
Not necessarily, you can get beefier batteries but they no longer fit in the handle. The 12v’ers have 3 18650 cells in the smallest form factor.
Usually the tools are slightly lighter weight, even though you can get bigger batteries for them.
Also def go 18V. The 12V tools are more compact versions of certain tools. Plus there are compact 18V tools, like a DeWalt Atomic 20V drill with the 1.7Ah PowerStack pack is probably the same size as their 12V drill but it will run off rhe same battery as your 7-1/4” circular saw. My 18V subcompact brushless drill and impact driver are smaller than my 12V brushed drill and impact.
If you want to do 12V in the future after you already own all the main 18V tools you need, Milwaukee’s M12 is the only 12V platform worth buying. They have like 5x as many 12V tools as the next largest 12V platform.
Factory where I work only uses Milwaukee.
They have 500 batteries, drills, etc.
They work great
It's 2023 dude, get the 20 volt.
Milwaukee, dewalt, makita, Bosch, ryobi. In that order. Forget the rest
If you wanna go compact and get 12v only Milwaukee really matters.
bosch 12v are the smallest and most nimble. Milwaukee is good too but if I was buying into 12v I'd look at both.
Makita is at this point the only one not owned by some mega corp. And they're as good as any of the other 'good' tools. Their impact also has the lowest amount of trigger -> start latency which I like.
>I’d look at both
Nah, if you’re thinking about 12V tools, which should ONLY be done after you already have your 18V tool selection rounded out and you’re looking for certain compact versions of tools for specific situations, then go with Milwaukee because they’re 12V system is so far ahead of all the other offerings. Bosch, Makita, DeWalt, etc all have like 10 or less 12V tools, Milwaukee has at least 5x as many tools on their 12V platform.
Milwaukee m12 has amazing tools and great variety but the Bosch 12v installation driver has a better feel than the awkward Milwaukee. Milwaukee for power, Bosch for ergonomics at least for me.
>If you wanna go compact and get 12v only Milwaukee really matters.
never go full 12v
ryobi and ridgid are also the same thing. directtoolsoutlet . com is cool, ryobi is fine for diy shit
>ryobi and ridgid are also the same thing
Gonna have to disagree with you on that. Have 10 or 11 Ryobi tools (got the drill/driver in a real cheap Black Friday combo in like 2016 and stuck with them because much battery compat.) but have started getting Ridgid. Everything Ridgid is better, some of it much so. They released track saws in both lines in the last year, and the Ridgid one is light years beyond the Ryobi. Magnesium baseplate and body instead of plastic, detent depth adjustment instead of nut/bolt, etc, etc.
They have made a combo tool that literally uses the same parts
This
Although a couple of the Ryobi HP designs are real real close to the last gen Ridgid.
And that website is like Home Depot’s /TTI’s scratch and dent, but a lot of the prices aren’t any better than sales on brand new stuff.
I would throw metabo/hikoki in there with makita, but some of their larger tools are easily 15% heavier than competition
DeWalt is a good bet for all-around heavy duty DIYer use or in the trades. They’re sold at the most retailers and probably have the best sales of the big contractor grade brands.
Milwaukee is better for a lot of the trades like HVAC, electricians, mechanics, but not really worth paying extra for red if it’s general handyman stuff.
Lime green is best DIYer/ weekender who doesn’t want to break the bank. Thier HP tools are nearly as good as DeWalt XR or Milwaukee Fuel and you can get the cheaper version of tools a weekender might only need once a year.
Kobalt and Ridgid will give you DeWalt performance with a lower price tag, but a smaller selection of tools, mostly just the basics.
Bosch is dumb to buy as a burger because their selection of tools is weak in the US and there’s no benefits to them over the others.
Makita is sort of like Bosch but not quite as bad. Makita also has moronic battery compatibility issues.
Craftsman and Skil are like Ryobi but nowhere near as many tools available.
Bauer and Hercules, just no. Don’t trust Harbor Freight. Plus if you buy DeWalt/Ryobi on sale (which there’s always promos), they’re often cheaper than a similar Hercules/Bauer setup. Don’t fall for Harbor Freight’s marketing tricks.
Also, keep an eye on Amazon pricing, I got my DeWalt jigsaw for $172 when it was $200 at Home Depot. Could have got the D-handle for $130 then, but I really prefer barrel.
also batteries can be a good $60 cheaper than scam depot, There is also knock off batteries for cheap but never tried them and some of the reviews seem more miss than hit
>you would understand it shouldn’t take two cuts to get through a 2x4 with no bevel.
who puts a 3 1/2 inch blade in a 5 1/2 inch saw?
its all a matter of preference but if your pops still has dewalt and he is open to letting you borrow something you dont have from time to time staying with dewalt could be something to consider.
i have/had m12 stuff as a daily driver for finish carpentry. i wouldn't use a hole saw with them. but the amount of crown I've coped with the jigsaw is insane and hasn't burnt out yet. And the m12 circular saw has been used to frame in a couple walls but mostly used to cut skirt boards for stairs. just ditch those basic 2 ah batteries for the 5 or 6 ah ones. Also having the 12v for predrill and the 18v for driving makes a lot of jobs easier
If the tool isn't total crap and you know what you're doing, one could make anything work.
>who puts a 3 1/2 inch blade in a 5 1/2 inch saw?
Right? Even DeWalt's little 4 1/2" mini saw can get through 2x material.
>circ saws cut all the way down to the arbor
The 4 1/2 can cut through 2x at 90, it just cant get all the way through at 45.
buying anything less than a 10" miter/table saw is just foolishness
We were talking about circular saws, dingus.
https://www.timberwolftools.com/mafell-mks185ec-beam-saw
17 11/16" blade or gtfo
Harbor freight sells Milwaukee
I got my dewatlt jigsaw $41 on Ebay
>Harbor freight sells Milwaukee
Nope.
Although I still feel bad for Chicago Pneumatic because I think HF ruined their name recognition with the Chicago Electric bullshit.
I did get confused one time when I was at Lowe’s and they had one of those “Try Me!” stations with a Milwaukee drill, but then I realized there was supposed to be a Flex sitting next to it so you could feel that extra 3.7V driving into a 4x4.
I can use mine anywhere I want without needing an outlet. And it's a barrel grip.
best impact driver is the milwaukee surge because it is quiet and that makes it a lot more pleasant to use. after buying it I have been slowly moving my non-precision tools to milwaukee, precision tools are either festool or mafell. if you don't want to spend money, pretty much all brands are okay.
I looove my surge. Literally 4 of my coworkers bought one after using mine.
It’s quieter, yes, but the smoothness is a hard thing to quantify unless you use an impact daily.
yeah, it's a fantastic tool, same happened when I bought mine, everyone else wants one
Odd they never really caught on if people like em that much. Ridgid sold one for a minute with the Octane line but it was never in stores and quietly fell off the lineup.
Does Makita have one? Or is Milwaukee the only one with the hydraulic driver? I wonder what lifespan is like as far as potential leaks or like when that AvE gay tried to go on some rant about cavitation.
>Or is Milwaukee the only one with the hydraulic driver?
this, to my knowledge, you are also in it for 350 with the tool, hard case, charger and 2 5ah batteries, you can go milwaukee for a drill driver combo with 2 batteries for less than that, it's a premium product that only professionals appreciate
>wrong brand
you can go makita* for a drill driver combo for less than that
That’s the Surge, which I don’t think Makita even offers.
Also it only comes in the M18 Fuel kit, maybe there’s an M12 Fuel kit as well. The hammer drill it comes with is a beast. You can get a basic M18 drill and impact driver kit with smaller batteries for <$200, but it won’t be the hydraulic impact. The same level Makita drill and impact driver kit would cost about the same as the M18 Fuel kit.
I’d be curious to try it out. The only upside any of the reviews and shit mention is the noise level like if you’re working in a damn hotel hallway at 7am.
>The only upside any of the reviews and shit mention is the noise level like if you’re working in a damn hotel hallway at 7am.
I build fancy wood ceilings with beams and stuff, not rattling your eardrums while you are putting up the plywood substrate is really fricking nice. I don't buy tools to be nice to other people, I buy tools to be nice to me. also what the other anon said about it being very smooth in the hand is also true, hard to describe unless you use impacts a lot.
That chair looks dope
Also working above your head all day… makes a little more sense why you like the smooth driver that’s not peak torque.
peak torque is a meme unless you are working on heavy machinery, driving screws into wood isn't that bad and if it is that bad you will break the screw because you were lazy and didn't pre-drill
Can you show me a pic of your finished work?
I'm really interested in your job, or seems very niche
There was just a spring deal on the M18 surge with two batteries and a charger for under $200.
M12. Ryobi if you're not going to use it more than once a week.
>M12
The people who shill this as anon’s first cordless drill are all morons who only buy the stuff so they can have Milwaukee Fuel for <$200.
It’s such a bad idea. There are real limitations to those 12V batteries when it’s time to drill and cut something big. God forbid you want to cut 2x’s or drill >1” holes in whatever.
There’s a reason a lot of those 3-cell M12 packs have shorter warranties on them as well. If you’re pushing that M12 Fuel drill on a compact pack, it’s going to get nice and toasty in the few minutes of runtime you get out of it trying to run that hole saw.
M12 is fine, re did my entire house using m12 tools ,including a circular saw.
>re did my entire house using m12
So you’re saying you installed a new piece of trim that was damaged around a door?
You obviously didn’t do a whole lot if the only saw use was a mini 12V circular saw with a blade the size of an angle grinder.
Doesn’t sound like you own 18V stuff either, because if you did, you would understand it shouldn’t take two cuts to get through a 2x4 with no bevel.
2.0Ah 18V packs get warm running big hole saws and stuff too. Trying to do that on 12V would be a game of hot potato every few minutes going to the charger.
Did the Kitchen, floors (and all the trim), doors, and some minor wall alterations. The M12 stuff was fine.
If you're doing jobs with bigger bits of wood or thick concrete/brick then yeah the M18 is totally justifiable. For some basic DIY or woodworking, M12 is fine.
>with the help of my mom’s boyfriend and his 18V saw
>running cordless tools off a corded power supply
Wat?
>running cordless tools off a corded power supply
Yeah. I've literally never needed to use a power tool with its own battery. I'm almost always within reach of a wall outlet. Failing that, I'm close enough to a vehicle that I can connect directly to the battery of. I'm not saying that there aren't situations where a cordless tool is necessary, just that for myself and a lot of other home diy people, there's little added utility from a lack of a wire.
Cordless tools for the diy crowd are like wireless audio; they're a meme designed to milk more money from consumers. But they're a meme with all the best tech put into them, the drills have all the variable speed and adjustable torques and a hammer feature. Brushless tools also tend to have better power to weight, especially the brushless tools. Hence why I'd get a cordless tool without the battery and run it off a wire, instead of buying the objectively worse corded variant. Buying a brushless tool and never buying a battery is kinda like buying a printer or razor and using knockoff consumables, you sidestep the razor-and-blades model for better bang-per-buck.
>cordless tools off a corded power supply
What's the best way to do this? Very appealing but all the adapters I see get bad reviews.
have a nice day
Usually you need an external mains power supply, with a DC cable. Trying to cram the power supply in the battery snap could work for lower power tools, but adds weight. The DC cable also has to be reasonably thick to lower voltage drop, I wouldn't want to make it longer than ~5m. Not sure if you can buy the battery adapters with the correct polarity, honestly I'd just 3D print one so if it breaks I can just re-make it. I'd use a locking connector like a microphone connector on it.
I'd also build a sufficiently rugged housing for the PSU, maybe put it on wheels depending on where I'd be using it. Add some power outlets, maybe a stereo.
Honestly it seems to make so much sense unless your priority is selling batteries by putting unnecessary cycles on them/selling a corded tool for every cordless –little 1ft^3 box with a fan that sits in a wheeled frame and gives you a few meters of unlimited power, and yeah charges your batteries at the same time for when you need to step away.
I’m curious how Metabo HPT or whoever has the plug-in battery does it. I think the most reasonable way would be to have a battery with some ~100w adapter hooked up, that way the batteries can give the tool power when you need it but the battery is recharging whenever you’re not on the trigger 100%. I bet the Metabo or Hikoki or whatever 36V is designed that way, it still has a battery in the tool and it’s basically like having a charger on the battery while running the tool.
Otherwise you would need a big ass like 1500w power supply if you wanted to keep a lot of tools at full battery power, plus you would need some extra extra thick jumper cables between the inverter brick and the tool, so it would be ridiculous.
Ok that makes a lot more sense than what I was saying. Thinner wires to the drill, plus the ability to go cordless whenever. I'll look into that method, though I'd want the thing to be able to preserve battery life by not keeping them at 4.2V per cell permanently.
>not making a 120/240V battery powered tool so the wires are thinner when you make it corded
i feel like i'm going in circles
12v is fine for many things including at the pro level. It’s what I use daily because it’s more compact and I don’t have any penis insecurities. How often are you maxing out your tools like in your hypothetical fairy tales and if you are, why are you not plugged it? When I have to mix concrete in a bucket I plug in. I’m not going to destroy a 18v power tool if I don’t have to.
Master Race Milwaukee M12 & Makita 18v. DeWalt makes some good corded woodworking tools I own as well. Rigid and all the major brands are fine. I know guys you use Ryobi on a professional level because they got tired of having their Makitas stolen. Ryobi will break if you abuse it tho.
You sound like a sissy cück fãggot
Enjoy your 3 hours drilling a few holes in cinderblock to set anchors and hang stuff up. I've done it with a Makita 12V drill, never again.
Got a DeWalt 20V hammer drill now, it can actually handle that kind of work.
I wouldn’t use a 12v tool for that job either. You should probably calm down and learn to read better
Shut up Black person
+1
Anon said M12 and Makita 18V. That’s how you’re supposed to do it. 18V as the mainstay, and then 12V when you need to go open up some panels to troubleshoot or for compact tools like the ratchets.
Been using Makita for about a decade. Never failed me and I abuse the frick out of them. Replacement batteries but they only last a couple years anyway. The tool body's are sound. Yeah, their pretty much all the same get the colour you like
>colour
opinion discarded
i think they get overlooked in the us, no idea why. im just aftwer watching a video comparing "flex volt" with "power stack" which are apparently two different kinds of the exact same tool sold at different hardware stores.
i already have to deal with shit like this buying a washing machine from currys i don't need the bullshit of power tools trying to frick me over.
e.g. drill should be small,medium,large, and the only difference should be the size of bit you can drill with. not a hundred different ranges and tools you have to search through datasheets to find differences that arent even true.
thats not why i got a makita drill but im glad i did now, its not perfect but its relatively sane to buy cordless tools from them.
Power Detect, you mean. Power Stack is the battery line using lithium pouch batteries instead of 18650 cylinder cells.
And don't blame DeWalt for that, blame Lowe's, they demanded a special line of high-end tools that Home Depot didn't have and got a "go frick yourselves" variant of the XR models instead. Ace Hardware, Fleet Farm, and Amazon also get the proper Flexvolt models that get an extra bit of oomph from 60V batteries.
>battery line using lithium pouch batteries instead of 18650 cylinder cells
sounds like xplosion waiting to happen
Milwaukee has su k tons and tons of money in their R&D for new developmental products that rely on their cordness battery lineups.
I would invest in Milwaukee.
Have about 15 different cordless devices with them and would not look back.
My most used is the cordless ratchets and 2767 impact gun . Speeds up everything.
I get whatever i need, generic dewalts (waitleys), and adapters.
Anyone got a Milwaukee 12v rotary tool? My dremel finally shit itself (well, the variable speed part failed) and using the cord is a pita sometimes when working on cars etc. Are Dremel brand or corded ones in general better, or should I just grab the M12 (already have some M12 batteries)?
M12 rotary is pretty nice if you are in the M12 ecosystem. Mine has been holding up well, pretty smooth at high rpm, can pretty much hang with a dremel.
Milwaukee is what all decent contractors use now, but buy dewalt, because I got roped into their bullshit on a black Friday deal and I want them to stay in business
>buy dewalt, because I got roped into their bullshit on a black Friday deal and I want them to stay in business
Sad. Many such cases.
After Milwaukee's shady stuff with "updating" the 1/2" Impact wrench with a super fragile anvil mechanism that can and pretty reliably did break first use while pretending it was the same tool it was hard for me to trust them.
I heard somewhere that Ryobi is just a rebranded new Milwaukee? Is that bs?
>Is that bs?
Mostly.
Milwaukee, Ryobi, and Ridgid are all owned by the same parent company, so a lot of the tech trickles down. Milwaukee will release a new type of tool, then Ridgid comes out with a version of the tool 3 years later, and then Ryobi gets it 2-3 years after that. They will share a lot of the same features and I’m sure there’s some parts commonality with small stuff, but the $200 Milwaukee version will have some user-friendly features that the $100 Ryobi doesn’t have. And the Milwaukee will probably have a bit better motor and trigger and a little better insulation and bearings here and there.
The Ryobi HP stuff is pretty damn good, but Ryobi is built to last the 3 year warranty period of weekend use, Milwaukee is built to last 3-5 years of weekday use.
Fwiw the only tool I noticed that was an obvious rebrand with those TTI companies is the Ryobi HP Jigsaw, it is exactly the same as the Ridgid Octane that was released a couple years earlier.
Craftsman and DeWalt do it a little bit too, but by the time Craftsman puts out a tool that looks to be a red DeWalt, the DeWalt version of that tool that costs $50 more has already been upgraded and is like 30% better.
Anyone else think lowe's has too many cordless brands?
I'd like to see them slim it down to like what home depot has and offer more depth in store rather than breadth
Yes. But 4 of those brands are sort of an afterthought. DeWalt, Craftsman, Kobalt, and maybe Flex (which is new) are the only ones they have more than a couple tools.
Home Depot sells some Bosch and Dremel too though. The way those two websites advertise is a little different. Like Dremel and Black & Decker at Lowe’s aren’t full cordless tool platforms sold in store.
>Home Depot sells some Bosch and Dremel too though.
corded Bosch and Dremel, cordless Bosch and Dremel is at lowe's
Home Depot sells the couple cordless Dremel models too. My local store even has that 20V Dremel in stock. But they’re not a full lineup.
Does Lowe’s even have Black & Decker in stock? If they do, it’s one drill. And they have one endcap of Skil.
Also I think that Lowe’s is in a goofy spot where they’re real tied in with two different mega corps. Home Depot is tied into TTI, and then they have DeWalt and Makita. Lowe’s is tied in with SB&D ever since the Craftsman partnership, and they’re stuck with Chevron or Textron, the people that make their Kobalt tools, I believe the same company makes Skil which is the competitor to Craftsman, and Flex is competition for DeWalt.
No clue why the hell they still have that Metabo HPT stuff. Don’t know who buys those. It can’t be worth the shelf space they give it.
Mechanics love Metabo and Hitachi, every mechanic I've ever known has a bunch of their tools right alongside their Milwaukee and StrapOn stuff. Last mechanic I used had a beat to shit looking Hitachi corded drill he'd use for drilling through frames and other thick steel, thing looked like it was +20 years old.
Not sure if that's a comment on the brand or just older corded drills in general. I have a corded Black & Decker from the early 1980's that is still going, it's almost scary how powerful it is. Even my new corded Milwaukee gets hotter than the B&D under the same stress.
Why is a brand new corded Metabo HPT corded drill 30 dollars but a Makita corded drill close to 110?
No idea. Metabo was German IIRC but new googling shows they're owned by a Japanese company that has ties to Hitachi.
I think eventually it'll just be two companies that own everything, like Coke and Pepsi.
>metabo sold part of their business to hitachi long ago(The original german metabo powertools are still alive, still expensive)
>hitachi recently sold their power tool business to american company
>yankees want to sell Metabo+Hitachi powertools
>let's name it Metabo HPT on the US market, and keep using Hikoki name in asia market.
So Matabo hpt and hikoki is identical.
I've got this exact drill. Thing just won't die. Opened it a couple years ago and the original brushes are still fine.
They seem to be dropping Bosch 12v in Michigan stores at least. They also seem to be whittling down Bosch 18v and Metabo HPT in favor of Skil and Flex since their parent company makes Kobalt.
Bosch actually had a bit of a good start with their 12V tools too, they had the same battery design as Milwaukee and it allows you to make a handful of tools in a super compact form factor. M12’s ratchets, oscillating multitool, soldering iron, die grinder, etc all have super good compact designs with a 3-cell battery in the handle. The slide packs like DeWalt and Makita’s 2nd gen lithium 12V just don’t fit as well on those tools. I think Bosch went on to make the 12V multitool and hackzall, and then the brushless impact driver and installation driver, then they just really fell behind Milwaukee. The Bosch 12V impact driver was always a qt little chubby guy too, but there’s just not enough else on that platform when you could go M12 for the same money.
My start with bosch 12v was as niche as 12v tool uses go. The smallest driver that had enough torque to lift my husky standing desk and still fit where the hand crank would be was the bosch chameleon. I'd use a tiny impact but the hammering was too hard on the mechanism and lifting my desk with the other's noise is canceled out with my microphone on calls/meetings.
any particular reason you're namegayging my guy?
Tripgay*
I see it’s your first day on PrepHole. I suggest you learn the difference between a namegay and a tripfriend.
using unsecure tripcodes is basically namegayging
secure tripcodes are for jerks
who gives a frick you perenially online non anon on an anon forum. act like its my first day try to elucidate a good reason for tripgayging or namegayging other than some appeal to authority or fame seeking reason.
fyi you're namegayging and tripgayging if you want to get technical
for reference this is home depot's cordless offering
strikes a good balance between depth and breadth of selection
So there's:
Dewalt, Craftsman, Black&Decker
Flex, Skil
Bosch, Dremel
Kobalt (Lowe's owned)
Metabo HPT
It does seem like Metabo is the lone one out
Chevron makes Flex, Skil, Ego, and the Kobalt cordless stuff.
And then Bosch/Dremel.
Lowe’s also has like a couple of Rockwell tools too, and that brand is owned by another Chinese mega corp IIRC, might be the people who own Worx and/or Greenworks.
I think if I were Lowe's I'd drop Metabo and keep Black&Decker and Skil to online only. That leaves 5 brands in store that you can directly compete against Home Depot's 5 brands.
Something like:
Flex/Milwaukee
Dewalt/Dewalt
Bosch/Makita
Kobalt/Ridgid
Craftsman/Ryobi
I only use red power tools. That's because every company I've ever worked for, every job site I've been on, they all used milwaukee and I have stolen so many fricking red tools over the years. I've only ever bought the batteries.
Black person
This
came to post this as well
Seethe harder paypigs
chervon has been good to me, flex at the top, kobalt in middle, and Skil at the bottom. flex has some top tier tools and decent incentives right now to buy in. I have kobalt drill driver, recip, oscillating tool and planer, no problems. they're on 24v battery platform so extra cell in the packs and the batteries are about the most affordable you'll find. their half inch impacts are nice that's my next one
tti is Milwaukee top, Ridgid middle, Ryobi bottom.
Stanley is DeWalt top and craftsman homeowner tier.
>and the batteries are about the most affordable you'll find
thats not true
Makita, Bosch, Milwaukee and Dewalt is good. HiKoki 36V is best, especially their impact driver.
Ryobi is fricking garbage. Never ever listen to the fricking morons who own Ryobi, they are just trying to drag you down to their level.
Which one isn't fricking consistently made in China?
That's the only colour I care about.
special snowflake stuff like festool
And most wouldn't recommend Festool for cordless tools anyways. Track saws, Dominoes, dust extractors? Fricking top tier. The miter saw's not bad either, and they're the only option for a Sawstop safety in Europe on a table saw. Great if you're in a shop making $1000+ pieces of furniture.
I love the festool miter saws. That being said, I build houses so I can tell you what I think are the best based on what I see people using and enjoying
Miter saw: Dewalt 12" sliding double bevel, beloved by most finish carpenters
Battery Powered Hand Held tools: The best are the milwaukee fuel 18v, dewalt is falling out of favor among framers, carpenters, etc. The milwaukee surge impact driver is great, when it showed up on the jobsite, other people saw it and heard it and went out and started buying them. There was one on our site, now there are three.
jig saw: bosch, get the good one, upgrade is festool, GOAT is mafell
table saw: I run a bosch gravity rise which I like, but the guy doing the staircase had a dewalt and it had some really cool features, if I were in the market for a table saw I would buy the dewalt he had. There is another option but it is $5k and german and is a push pull saw and runs on 230v so I don't think it's something people here would consider, mafell erika 85.
routers: since porter cable is no longer around, I was getting bosch routers but after burning up 3 of them I went festool, I know people who are happy with makita routers, etc.
when it comes to sanders and other corded tools <$75 dollars, brand really doesn't matter, they are all pretty much meant to be used for a year or two and replaced, of course you are going to get 2 years of hard use out of the dewalt/makita vs the 3 months of hard use out of the ryobi, so it matters a little bit, but getting really good stuff in this category ends up getting really expensive and doesn't benefit you unless you are using dust extraction. For example, mirka deos sanders are fantastic. Most people don't need a $500 sander though.
Hand tools: estwing hammer 16&22oz, klein needle nose, tiny channel locks, and I have never seen a professional with meme expensive pliers/screw drivers/wrenches because, even if they are better, they WILL eventually lose them or leave them
>table saw: I run a bosch gravity rise which I like, but the guy doing the staircase had a dewalt and it had some really cool features, if I were in the market for a table saw I would buy the dewalt he had.
For that $600-700 price range the 10" Jobsite model absolutely delivers, to the point that everybody else is copying it now.
The expensive bosch 18v stuff is from Malaysia, Hungary and Germany.
I love my bosch shit, and it's frequently on sale or comes with a free 2 pack of 4ah batteries
>they have to basically give it away
You know DeWalt and Milwaukee often have sales and free battery/tool deals too, right? And both of those brands are sold at stores your wife doesn’t drag you too, unlike Bosch.
who needs to go to a store when they're perpetually on sale at amazon
Because sometimes you need a tool for a job right now and it’s nice to fingerfrick the tools before buying them. Why do you think all of the stores have display models of power tools?
>i need a tool for a job right now because im a moron who didnt plan anything ahead of time
>never had something break unexpectedly
Hey man I’m the guy who says you’re better off buying new with a sale than buying used or waiting til the last minute. But if you have never had something break unexpectedly that needs to get fixed today, then you probably haven’t repaired shit. Sometimes you have to bite the bullet and get a specialty tool or part from Harbor Freight or VatoZone instead of waiting for Amazon or RockAuto. And for cordless tools, plenty of people didn’t think they needed that 1/2” high torque impact wrench until they had a car halfway pulled apart on a Sunday afternoon and they really needed that 1/2” rattle gun to get it done. They did fine with a breaker bar for every other job until that Sunday afternoon. Oscillating multitool might be another one, some moronic cutting or scraping job and that’s the only way to get it done.
I don’t blame ya when a basic Bosch or DeWalt drill/driver and one battery costs the equivalent of 2 months wages for the average Yuro.
>amerimutt humour
>Borscht, or DeWet
wat?
Parkside is not bad in comparison of chinesium stuff. I see them mostly used by DIY and pros that dont need the tool daily.
They started making ton of tools that use the batery enviroment that are realy chap and afordable in comparison with the pro stuff.
If you gonna use that toll daili go pro if you gonna use it 1-2 month then go park side.
My peronal concern for parkside is that spear partsand service are not so widely avaible.
Also chapest stuff Bosch/Dewalt around here is like +50-80 euro more then parkside stuff so not so big difference.
I my self runn Dewalt for batery tools. If i need something i will use rarely i go for cheaper stuff or corded.
That's what I've picked for my occasional use tools, the stuff I'll use once a year at best. If it breaks, will buy a proper brand next time. Wish the newer batteries came to the UK
That's on my shopping list. Haven't heard anything bad so far.
I have something called a toplekek drill, with a 2ah battery.
I got it new for $10 at a thrift store.
I use it at work to mix epoxy up, and I've had that thing for over a year. The battery is starting to get weaker, but she smokes, she squeels, she sounds like hell, but she keeps going. $10 drill and I was impressed
how is the parkside quality? i bought a glue gun in lidl or aldi 10 years ago - still works fine, but i rarely use it.
Great for the price and good for hobbyists.
>buy one brand
It doesn't matter much. Starter kits (typical battery+charger+bag+tool) basically give the tool for free (relative to battery and charger MSRP). You only have to eat the cost of the battery twice to get into two platforms, then you're not limited anymore. Small price to pay (around $100) compared to being able to get the best tool for the job.
I have DeWalt and Bosch tools. Bosch tools are usually more refined, but the DeWalt will happily take a beating and then some.
The battery thing is real though when you start getting on more platforms. Sometimes you have 4 tools with battery going at once on a project, or your a turbo autist who doesn’t like changing bits so you have 2 drills and 2 impacts all laying on the bench at once, and you start getting to 5-6 batteries. Also with lithium packs, having different sizes of packs is super nice. 2.0’s on impact drivers or when you’re drilling a handful of <1/4” holes, 4.0’s on the hammer drill and jigsaw and 1/2” impact wrench, then 6.0s or 8.0s on 7-1/4” circ saw, angle grinder, and the full size sawzall, and maybe you have some outdoor power equipment where you want to run 9.0+ packs.
When you're at a level where you own two drill drivers and impact drivers, like you and other tripgays on this board, buying into two tool platforms won't matter either. Small change.
Buy what's best.
>toasty 12V packs
The same thing happens with 18V packs too. I notice that a 2.0 Ah pack will struggle to rip a single 3/4" plywood sheet and will drain the battery to 2 or 1 bar before finishing a sheet, but a 4Ah pack will get me through several sheets and a dozen boards without needing a charge. I guess it has more cells in parallel. DeWalt seems to carry the same warranty though as their bigger packs; maybe it has good enough thermal cutoffs to prevent big damage.
Milwaukee is the best, Dewalt stuff even the good stuff has an embarrassing amount of failures,
The Milwaukee shit is miles above almost everything these days. DeWalt is also an excellent choice.
>Milwaukee
bought m12 impact at yard sale w/ extra battery & charger. 2 years later buy drill motor with 1 battery. use both several times weekly, no issues, long battery run time. getting side ratchet next.
just bought a Kobalt combo drill and impact kit today bros. 24v, feels good
Used mostly old 12v Makita and Ryobi before, been using Kobalt in marine environments since 2016. Got the 1/2 impact, flashlight, two handed sawzall, hammer drill, drywall drill, and just got the blower. The 24v is badass, the batteries are cheap as dirt, power is decent, and the tools really do take a beating. The brushless hammer drill has taken a hell of a beating, left it out in saltwater air for a couple months. Soaked it in PB blaster and vise grips got the semi rusty chuck unstuck, still running today. Need to pick up an oscillating tool once my cheap corded one dies.
Cheapest batteries (was $20ish for a 2AH battery a while back, probably more like $30 now) made it a no-brainer for me - batteries are consumables, and since the tools are on the cheap side as well, the total cost of ownership is lowest. Frick paying an extra couple grand over the lifetime of your toolset for a different color, especially when it's all manufactured overseas.
Downsides are limited lineup, but that's been slowly improving. I do get jealous of all the crazy stuff Milwaukee is always coming out with, like the heated jackets. I'm sure their modular systems are cool too - just never made the leap. They'd be my second choice. At least I don't go (as) broke buying unnecessary crap.
>caring about batteries
>not just buying a battery adapter on ebay and running them off a Meanwell power supply
ngmi
They’re all exactly the same.
/thread
Opinion discarded for idiocy.
The only brands I see on construction sites are Milwaukee, DeWalt, and Makita. To a lesser extent, Bosch too. You won't go wrong with any of those. I have Milwaukee only because that's what my company uses so it makes charging and battery swaps easy, but any of those are fine.
>my dad always had dewalt shit, so i might just do the same.
same, my dad swore by makita stuff and now i only get makita
There is a brand Milwaukee owns that gives you free battery replacement for life
I would buy them too if I were that poor.
Let’s be honest, by the time the 5 year warranty period on a Milwaukee tool lapses, you’re going to want the new version anyway.
The battery thing is the most tempting though. I should keep running my original 4.0s real hard to see what it’s like getting new ones.
if a tool is still alive after 5 years with me you better believe I'm hanging on to that fricker, by that point sentimental value beats new features
Newport's?
>What truck you steal dem tools from Tyrone?
Keep it 100
That cable is going to be expensive as frick, and you’re still going to need batteries for when you don’t want to drag 15lbs of copper around (which will be all the time).
Also modern lithium batteries can put out as much power as a 120V 15A outlet, so you don’t need a more powerful corded version of anything really, only the tools where you need a ton of runtime with no breaks.
And Harbor Freight quality control! Yet you save basically nothing over buying whatever DeWalt tool is on sale at any of the numerous retailers.
I don’t know why anybody would by Bauer or Hercules cordless tools. Enjoy those Lynx yard tools with the expensive batteries you can’t find anymore!
>you’re still going to need batteries for when you don’t want to drag 15lbs of copper around (which will be all the time).
Not in a workshop. Doing something in the workshop? Mains. On the go? Batteries. At least half the cycles on the cells. Would also be useful for e.g. contractors doing months long construction projects, bring it on site once and leave it until the job's done.
>How to constantly have to buy new tools
Yes, which is why I said the inverter brick adapter for cordless tools is dumb. Get 120V tools if you want to deal with a cord, and get fricking cordless tools if you don’t. Fun part is you can use cordless tools near an outlet as well!
>Get 120V tools if you want to deal with a cord, and get fricking cordless tools if you don’t. Fun part is you can use cordless tools near an outlet as well!
You're not getting it. The whole point is, *usually* you can use corded tools but not always. You can't use corded not near an outlet. Which leaves you with two shit options:
>put unnecessary wear on batteries
>own two sets of tools
An adapter would let you own *one* set of tools and only use batteries when you actually need them on the go/off the grid/etc.
Did it hurt when you got the lobotomy?
See
I use cordless tools within reach of an outlet with no qualms that I wasted 1 of the 1000 discharge cycles. Dealing with a 120V cord capable of carrying 15A is annoying enough, I can’t even imagine a tool with some 2000W power brick attached and a power cord thick enough for 100A DC, it would be like having a 1” air line or a fat jumper cable hanging off a cordless drill. Batteries are probably like $50ea after accounting for the sales and deals, so that one discharge is costing me ~5¢ in battery life.
I got 3 4AH batteries basically for free compared to just buying the bare tools.
That’s why the luddite gays who complain about battery prices are moronic. As a DIYer, you should be getting 5yrs out of your batteries, 3yrs minimum since you have a warranty anyway. Shop smart and you can get a battery and charger for $10 more than a bare tool. Last 2 tools I got, one was a 4.0 and 6.0Ah battery and charger with the grinder for $20 more than the grinder alone, and before that was a 2.0Ah battery and charger with the hackzall for the same price as the bare tool, and when I got my Ryobi HP weed whacker, the kit with a 4.0 battery and charger was like $40 cheaper than the bare tool alone.
It’s not just about the cost per cycle, although a lot of the best batteries are way more than $50/per. Look at the state of the world right now – how confident are you that you’re going to be able to just waltz into a Lowes and walk out with a new battery in five years? Not even on some total collapse TEOTW shit, where is lithium being mined? Where are the factories that build it into cells? Where are the factories that build the cells into the proprietary packs? How does all that material get from one place to another to the hardware store shelves? What are the political conditions in all those places?
Yea buddy good luck with your 120V tools. I’ll be harvesting used 18650s.
And “the best batteries are way more than $50”… shop smarter then. Don’t buy $150 bare batteries like a dumbass. Wait for a 2pk of those $150 batteries to go on sale for $199 with a charger and a free $169 bare tool.
>Yea buddy good luck with your 120V tools. I’ll be harvesting used 18650s.
This is exactly what I'm saying! I want *18v* tools with an *adapter* to run on 120v directly for the flexibility to run either and not put unnecessary cycles on batteries. Save and stretch the cells you do have, make those salvaged 18650s go farther.
Also this is completely fricking moronic. Home Depot is on Gen 7 of that battery style and I could probably find Chinese knockoffs if they stopped supporting the tools. That’s why I didn’t get Flex or Nu-Skil or something brand new.
The amount of cycles on my 18V batteries will be way down the line of my priorities when a solar flare knocks out power and 95% of the population dies within a few weeks.
i think i'm just gonna buy a cordless tool, and modify the battery to have a charge plug directly on it, and make a dc charger that cc/cv charges it up to ~4v per cell but no more
with a 3.7v mode that i could leave it on for years at a time
because i use tools like once a week, and i'm an autist and want my shit to last decades
i mostly agree with you but the problem isn't that milwaukee or whoever will stop putting 18650s into batteries, it's that the chinks will stop selling america those 18650s in the first place, or that the miners in 3rd world countries will get bombed the shit out of or go on strike or whatever and the chinese won't get the lithium or cobalt or whatever in the first place
looking forward to sodium based batteries myself
The new Cat tools have some graphene blend batteries that claim to get a full charge on a 5.0Ah pack in like 15min. I’m curious about those
>Also this is completely fricking moronic. Home Depot is on Gen 7 of that battery style and I could probably find Chinese knockoffs if they stopped supporting the tools. That’s why I didn’t get Flex or Nu-Skil or something brand new.
Also lol wut? I run Dewalt, know a little bit about the Milwaukee system, Home Depot brand batteries? Ryobi?
>The amount of cycles on my 18V batteries will be way down the line of my priorities when a solar flare knocks out power and 95% of the population dies within a few weeks.
I'm explicitly not talking doomsday fantasies, I'm talking political and economic turmoil. The other guy
gets it.
Interesting mod idea btw
They will find a way to get functioning tools in the country before we get the rest of the Chinese bullshit when we go to war with them. Good 18650s don’t come from China either, I believe Korea and Malaysia produce most of the name brand cells.
Ridgid and Ryobi have been some of the best with battery compatibility in recent years, they’re the only ones I believe who kept the same pack design since they were still using NiCd cells. DeWalt’s lithium packs won’t fit on their NiCd tools.
>Interesting mod idea
yeah judging by the number of pins there's already a balancing bms inside the battery, but i'm not sure about the communication pins.
would have to reverse engineer an official charger and snoop the comms lines via logic analyser
>I'm explicitly not talking doomsday fantasies, I'm talking political and economic turmoil.
That's why you know how to make corded adapters and/or own a set of corded tools (cheap used even for good pre-buyout Milwaukee) and perhaps a set of air tools. All easily accumulated over time for cheap because I did.
If you want to be ready for adversity that doesn't require more gear than anyone serious would own anyway. I even had hand drills, braces, and a hand cranked bench grinder. Compressors are easy to accumulate and in SHTF you can convert them to pedal or hand crank pretty easily.
That's also why you own sufficient spares that if battery supplies are interrupted for a few years you can keep working. Decent batteries last a long time. If turmoil happens no one is going to fight you for batteries you buy early, and if you're smart that includes a couple of car or truck batteries for your POV and perhaps tires. Study what was in short supply during WWII.
craftsman 19.2v chad here checking in. aftermarket lithium ions are readily available, and work great.
My 2 cents
t. runs Milwaukee
what makes you say dewalt is that much better than makita or milwaukee?
dewalt has better batteries with the same or more power
makita has consistency issues, by far the most overrated brand
Yeah, Dewalt basically has no real losers among its tools. It might not always be the best in any category, but it'll be hanging at second or third in performance and end-user feel is usually near the top. You can trust a DW tool not to be crap.
>Snap On at the top
There’s a reason most mechanics have started running Milwaukee/DeWalt cordless tools even if they have a tool box full of Snap On wrenches.
I've seen pics of your beat to shit, secondhand tools and have serious doubts that anyone who can actually afford that brand would let you anywhere near them to try.
>afford
Topkek, that’s not how $18/hr lube techs afford Snap On.
I do like their 14.4V compact tool battery setup, but they’re a step behind Milwaukee on everything and cost easily twice as much.
You’re missing something, if you’re running those tools at 18V, they pull a lot of amps, and you’re going to need a lot of copper for that 10’-20’ cord from the inverter box to the tool. It’s going to be like heavy duty jumper cables.
Between the big power supply and cables, you’re better off buying a corded tool for those applications.
>It’s going to be like heavy duty jumper cables.
>Between the big power supply and cables, you’re better off buying a corded tool for those applications.
I'm still seeing upside here, buy one (albeit expensive) box and you now don't have to buy multiples of the same tool for different power supplies, have to buy fewer batteries over the long term, etc.
Only reason to get corded then would be if you need the extra power, which very few applications do nowadays.
snap-on isnt at the top, learn to read the graph
Snap On, DeWalt, and MAC performance above Milwaukee is probably incorrect. The Snappy tools aren’t really up there on power unless you’re looking at one brand new impact wrench that is way larger than the competition, which isn’t great for a mechanic’s tool.
>240V battery pack
So what, you need like 60 cells? And a way to balance those cells if it’s lithium. And then you have a 10x chance of one cell failing and messing up the whole pack.
>So what, you need like 60 cells
yes
>And a way to balance those cells if it’s lithium
yes
> And then you have a 10x chance of one cell failing and messing up the whole pack
yes, though if you run them only up to 4.1 or 4.0v that chance drops.
also you could run lifepo4 instead
The other downside to 60 cells is that’s a shit ton of connections and a shit ton of possible points of high resistance and failure. It’s going to be a big trade off to get away with slightly smaller wires inside the tool.
Probably needs new battery tech before it makes sense.
no the point was smaller wires outside the tool
also your cells would need to be really small
Well, at the very least, all Snap-On tools are oil-resistant. Can't say the same for Dewalt tools.
That plan is downright moronic. Dewalt has Flexvolt 120V tools that require two 60V MAX packs, but they are meant for worksite table saws, miter saws and lawnmowers, not handheld stuff like drills and impacts. Plus you would still need a power supply to convert to DC.
>That plan is downright moronic
yes
>Plus you would still need a power supply to convert to DC
it's called diodes and capacitors
sorry that you missed my sarcastic tone, but in the same post i suggested it i recognise the much smarter idea that is using a lower power dc cable to slowly charge it as the battery buffer is used for high current instantaneous draw, i figured it was obviously satirical
I used a Ryobi drill daily for work, replaced the first one after about 5 years, replacement was still good when I left the company. Bought Ryobi for myself because I never had any issues with it, and aside from house projects, I don't need high end stuff for what I'm doing.
qrd?
Is the white b***h mad at the end? She can’t handle 5 dicks? Has she ever tried?
I think Dewalt is the best.
The only Milwaukee tool I preferred was their drain snake just because it auto feeds, but you have to recoil it all the time so it kind of sucks too.
Daily reminder that there all exactly the same.
pretty much, they either spin or reciprocate with minor differences
one of those posts is a namegay making an inflamitory blanket statement
the other is someone taking the piss of that namegay by deliberately misinterpreting his shitty take as "all tool types are the same" rather than "all tool brands are the same"
I got Ryobi since I shop at Home Depot. I hate to send money to China but I actually like Ryobi products.
They don't built in China any more than DeWalt and Milwaukee do.
anything with a lithium battery is built in china by default
Liar.
what a waste not laying them out a swastika
>dewalt
decent toolslop. it's what I have, and it works fine
>makita
quality tools, expensive but very high quality, although some fit and finish is strange feeling
>milwaukee
"quality" toolslop
>bosch
people say good things about bosch
>ridgid
idk about their hand tools, but ridgid shop vacs are cheap and great. I think this might be a surprisingly good brand considering their background
>the rest
toolslop garbage, same as the above. everything's the same now.
If you're a home jobber it really doesn't matter which one you choose. If you're on a budget, the cryobi and rigid will be fine. Both are other by the same company that makes Milwaukee, if that makes any difference to you. If you can afford it though, Milwaukee fuel are great and what I use for work and personal use.
What's the difference in M18 and M18 FUEL? Is it worth more than double the cost?
Also, is this a good deal?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-M18-18V-Lithium-Ion-Brushless-Cordless-Compact-Drill-Impact-Combo-Kit-2-Tool-W-2-2-0Ah-Batteries-Charger-Bag-2892-22CT/305491315
Fuel is their premium line. That Fuel drill has a lot more balls, but it’s also like wrist breaking power. The Fuel kit that’s $400 also has larger batteries, 4.0s or 5.0s, nice when drilling big holes but overkill on a 1/4” impact driver for DIYer jobs. Also the Fuel kit is a hammer drill, I think all of the non-Fuel drill and impact kits are non-hammer, which sucks if you ever need to drill holes in concrete or brick. I believe Milwaukee sells non-Fuel hammer drills, but only as bare tools so they’re overpriced.
Honestly I’ve been watching the kit you posted and that’s a pretty good buy at $159. Normally their kit around $150 is a brushed drill and impact driver with 2x 1.5Ah batteries. The brushless tools in the kit you posted will be more powerful, more compact, and a bit more efficient.
If you really want the hammer drill function, the M18 Fuel kit goes on sale a lot with a free tool for $400, so it doesn’t sting as bad. You could also think about the other brands, Ryobi’s HP stuff is nice for the money. I bought Ridgid a few years back because they were the only brand with a hammer drill + impact driver combo for a reasonable price. Kobalt is similar to Ridgid, a lot of performance for the money but they don’t have as large of a lineup as Milwaukee. Just don’t be a dumbass and buy M12 because you wanted Fuel but didn’t want to spend the money on 18V
Ah, didn't notice the bigger batteries with the fuel set, makes a lot more sense now.
I may wait then and see if any better deals pop up, I'm not in a huge huge hurry.
Also the non-fuel or more normal tools probably are sufficient for my needs, but there's always that worry that in the future I might need something heavier duty but then I'll already have the weaker tools and not want redundancies... But I also don't know if it's really worth the extra cost for me or not. Depends on how good a sale I guess.
In any case I don't currently have any cordless tools, just old corded stuff, so it's a clean slate to choose an ecosystem. Definitely want something that will be around and compatible for the foreseeable future and with a good selection of tools.
Huh just realized the M18 Fuel kit with hammer drill and impacter and 2 5.0 batteries comes with a free item and the only choice is another 5.0 amp hour battery. That certainly sweetens the deal.
It’s not even about the weaker tools, the hammer drill was a dealbreaker for me. If they had a $250 brushless hammer drill non-Fuel kit, that would be a sweet middle ground.
I would wait and watch the prices, the M18 Fuel hammer drill + impact driver kit goes on sale with a free tool all the time, I would bet there will be a holiday sale starting in late October and going til Feb and that Fuel kit is on there most years. Acme Tools has lots of Milwaukee sales too, although when the “Free Tool” deal pops up, you often find it on numerous authorized retailers. Picrel was from 2022 holiday sales
Man pic related is a sweet starter setup for $500 if you don’t mind brushed tools.
The flashlight is gay and just filler, but those 6.0 M18 batteries are beasts on their larger tools, and if you’re going to want a cordless circ saw, recip saw, and multitool, those are all $150 bare tools.
If you’re not set on Milwaukee, there’s a bunch of DeWalt Atomic deals for labor day.
This is a good DeWalt kit too, XR hammer drill, XR impact driver and XR 7-1/4” circ saw, and then a 1.7 and a 5.0 Powerstack pack. The 1.7 would be great on the impact driver and drill for a few holes, and the 5.0 will run that saw hard and the drill when you need to make a bunch of big holes.
XR is like DeWalt’s Fuel.
And the DeWalt Atomic is like brushless subcompact tools from other brands, not super high power stuff but still about the power of full sized brushed tools.
New Atomic tools like the DCF850 are more like compact versions of the XR tools. I think the 850 is currently the best 1/4" impact driver they have.
It’s also because there’s a cieling on usable torque for 1/4” impact drivers, so if they came out with another XR that was more powerful, it would be annoying when it wrecks screws. So they figured out how to make it smaller with the same power and released it under the Atomic line. I would take the kit with the Atomic driver over the XR driver, assuming you get the XR drills with both of them.
This kit is probably the best buy. It’s only 2 batteries, but within the next couple months there will probably be a free tool promo where you spend $150 on 2x 5.0’s and a charger and then get a free sawzall or angle grinder or whatever the next tool is that you want. Now you’re set with 4 batteries including one small guy for smaller jobs and a backup charger. That 7-1/4” XR saw is probably a $200 bare tool.
>"600$ value if purchased separately"
>399$ down from 849$
hm
I think the kit is $650 and the $849 includes the extra batteries at full MSRP. It’s like $600 for just the tools
>$150 bare tools
Not really. Apples to oranges, you have to compare on-sale prices with on-sale prices. Brushed drills and impact drivers often go for <$100 when on sale.
One more. This has the full size XR hammer drill and the Atomic impact driver which is super sweet. And a free 5.0Ah battery if you want a 3rd pack.
…and for $40 less, the Atomic drill instead of the XR. The pic doesn’t match the description, so I guess this one is with 2x 2.0’s and a free 5.0.
Keep in mind that you're basically committing to a brand when you start buying tools, unless you're willing to deal with having 3-4 different, incompatible battery systems.
DeWalt is also a very good alternative to Milwaukee, with similar quality, performance, and durability. This kit is some of the best tools in the class, and costs $100 less than the set
posted, and comes with 2 4AH batteries, not 2s.
https://www.amazon.com/DCK2050M2-Brushless-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Batteries/dp/B09ZHLSK4S/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=dewalt+impact+driver+and+hammer+drill+combo&qid=1692563874&sprefix=dewalt+impact+driver+and+hammer%2Caps%2C124&sr=8-3
Also, check Amazon's pricing when shopping around, it can be less that what HD/Lowes charges.
>Keep in mind that you're basically committing to a brand when you start buying tools, unless you're willing to deal with having 3-4 different, incompatible battery systems.
Which IRL is easy and allows greater tool choice so I add a new senpai every few years or when a particular tool interests me.
>senpai
Stupid filter
>committing to a brand
Kinda dimwitted. When you own more than 5-6 battery tools, you're going to have a few chargers and batteries already, from batteries-included deals and the likes. What's one more battery from a different brand? A drop in the ocean.
>Kinda dimwitted. When you own more than 5-6 battery tools, you're going to have a few chargers and batteries already, from batteries-included deals and the likes. What's one more battery from a different brand? A drop in the ocean.
It might not matter to some people, but to some it will. For Joe Blow working out of his garage on household projects where hes never more than 50' from the chargers it probably isn't a big deal.
I'd rather not have 3 or 4 different brands and batteries to wrangle. It's bad enough having both M12 and M18 stuff. I keep tools in my garage, 2 different shops, 2 pickups, and a service truck, so interchangeability is very convenient.
50’ of extension cords is still super fricking annoying when you want to drive a couple screws in a fence or chop off one tree limb. Buy $100 worth of Ryobi betteries every 5 years and it’s probably cheaper than the extension cords you will chew up on accident.
It's also a money proposition on the low end – batteries can be more expensive than tools.
Frick that, I don't need more than a few batteries for what I might need to do on the go, and buying bare tools once you're set up costs less total when you're just buying tools as needed. I can roll my Toughsystem stack or just carry the box I need to the car and go without worrying if I packed the right batteries for the tools on hand, because they're all compatible.
Especially since going to most other brands would either be a downgrade or a sidegrade with no real benefit over just sticking with DeWalt.
Fwiw, I would bet by late October, the $399 M18 Fuel kit and the $349 DeWalt XR kit, both with brushless hammer drills and impact drivers and larger batteries and fairly fast chargers, they will have the holiday sales coming in and very likely both of those kits will come with a free tool.
Home Depot also has the “Deal of the Day” and at least once a week there’s a ton of power tool kits on there, and the M18 Fuel kit is often on there with a free tool or a big battery or maybe a 2pk of smaller batteries. Get yourself a sawzall or angle grinder for the $300-$400.
Also for DeWalt, don’t they have Atomic kits with the hammer drills? Those go on sale pretty cheap a lot.
Hercules.
$69 for a impact.
5 year warranty, just return to store, and swap with a new one.
HF always has deals on Hercules.
Right now they have buy 2 tools for $120 get a battery for free.
ive never had an issue with ryobi but then again i just putz around the house
if you're home usually you buy a brand for home users because the brand for professional users, which they need because it takes more abuse and a works longer and yada yada is more expensive.
so home user or professional user?
Whatever tool brand you pick, cruise your pawn shop for tools and then as they break replace with new tools. Eventually when those tools start to get old sell them to the pawn shop and buy new tools. Rinse wash repeat.
Test
i like my makita 18v stuff for remodeling. Sometimes ya have to branch out to get a specific tool. Dewalts cordless pin nailer is awesome.. really like metabos oscillator too.
Flex is really good. I was reluctant to buy into it since their 24v cordless line is new. I now have over 10 Flex tools and I am happy I bought into the brand for these reasons:
- An extra battery cell makes the nominal voltage 21.6V, making it so the batteries last longer and theres a bit more power than the standard 18v lines (Dewalt is 18v BTW)
- Lifetime warranty (till the end of this year)
- Tools are very well built. Whenever someone uses my tool they always comment on how strong amd ergonomic the tools feel.
- Flex is acrually the German company that invented the angle grinder. I have their variable speed angle grinder and it's the best one I've ever used.
- Flex makes jealous toollets seethe. People will shit talk Flex but then they'll use the tools and be jealous that they've already invested in a poverty tier tool line like dewalt or milwaukee so they know they'll never be a Flex chad.
I have a bunch of kobalt but just grabbed the grinder kit on backorder for 120. next I'll be looking for the mid torque impact kit. have skil Sanders and saws, one Bosch cordless circular. Ryobi flex shaft
>Lifetime warranty (till the end of this year)
huh?
Yeah Flex has been running a promo to sell their shit, normally it’s a 5yr warranty I believe but thru 2023 if you register the tools, they’re giving away lifetime warranty coverage to get you hooked on the system.
Good plan IMO, warranty those 3-4 tools people get the first year and then they’re stuck on the platform. That’s if you believe Flex will last.
I love flex tools, after a long day of driving lags with my flex tool, me and my flex bros begin a long night of driving dicks in each other's asses.
They dont call us homoFLEXible for nothing.
We like our tools how we like our men, strong, powerful and long lasting 😉
i love days where i can bust out the flex recip saw and go to town on the morning wood, all my flex bros get rock hard at the sight of a flex blade stroking back and forth, back and forth, 3000 strokes per minute, brushless, cordless, condomless
after im done for the day i take my flex wet vac and start sucking the frick out of those rock hard flex wieners, flex fricking sucks hard
We're here, we're homoflexible, get used to it.
How do you you're not a homoflex if you've never tried it?
I guarentee when you feel a strong thick tool in your hand with long lasting power then you'll switch sides too 😉
On my second refurbished Bosch 12v kit. First one for stollen so I purchased another for 100 bucks from Amazon. I do appliance work and use the impact every single day. It's an excellent drill.
The 12v impact drivers are great for that stuff, good for any tech dealing with a lot of panels and sheet metal screws. I still think you should get down on 18v stuff first because of battery compatibility. Waiting for Ridgid to drop a powerstack type battery because the subcompact 18v tools are just as small as the 12v
Welp, it finally happened. After 5+ years and over a dozen of their tools with zero issues, I got Ryobi'd. Ordered up one of their shiny new track saws that the YouTubers are going on about, arrived today and discovered that the fella who assembled mine decided to not install the arbor lock assembly as a weight-reduction modification. Now I get to wait a week for the replacement.
>inb4 that one is missing it as well and discover they have an entire production run of them missing the arbor lock
>choose a tool brand like they choose toothpaste
I buy my toothpaste from Canada. Specifical sensodyne with novamin(Google what novamin does). Find the tool that has a special edge over the others.
I used to have pain and sensitivity with the regular toothpaste. The stannous fluoride in US sensodyne is something I'm allergic to (found out the hard way) so i get the novamin stuff from leafland. No more pain. Yes get the tool from the brand that has the best of that tool or the best feeling. Milwaukee is the most powerful for many tools but the bosch feels better in my hand. If a tool feels just right and doesn't beat you up while getting the job done, that's the tool I go with. Awkward feeling tools will eventually get you in the form of pain and stress on your hands/joints.
i don't get the brand loyalty either i have milwaukee, dewalt, makita, rigid, kobalt, ryobiand one of those hitachi corded drills i might have craftsmen something too i don't even know anymore
>6-7 different incompatible batteries and a rack of chargers
Some of us want to be smart about what we get and only need one set of batteries. That said, while all my cordless tools are DeWalt, my corded sander is a Bosch.
Anyone with Makita XGT 40V?
I'm thinking about picking up some tools from this line myself.
>80v
>2 batteries
just buy a corded drill jesus
Look at what the rental places have, pick that
Hilti, never look back
are you starting a rental business? do you use them for your job?
otherwise bad advice, if you are a weekend warrior then get cheaper stuff
Yeah it's only good advice if you'll actually use your tools a lot. Or treat them roughly. Or have a hard-on for good engineering.
Saw nothing but Hilti and Stihl at the rental shop the other day.
Why do rental shops carry Hilti, as opposed to any of the other top tier brands?
>as opposed to any of the other top tier brands
What else is there, apart from Festool? I'm not very well versed, but it appears to me as if Festool have a worse (or at least different) tool range compared to Hilti.
Hilti is known for its service, that’s half the reason you would buy the tools. Maybe the rental places take advantage of that because people abuse the hell out of the rental tools and break them and then rental shop can send them straight to a Hilti service center and get them fixed within 48hrs.
If lefists or communists actually did actual work, there'd be at least one complaining in this thread that capitalism offers no real choice or variety, or that capitalism offers too much choice which is paralyzing for consumers. (They simultaneously believe both things.)
They claim to care about workers' rights, but do no actual trade work themselves. Curious.
Thanks buddy
Meanwhile Milwaukee has no issues running big miter saws off a single M18 battery and you don’t need to take a step up until you get to MX Fuel jackhammers and 40,000 lumen lighting systems.
Thanks /misc/, but you forgot to mention “them”.
See, this is what your supposed to do. The M12 impact goes in your small mobile back for opening all those panels and shit for diagnosis, then when you need to do full install or demolition, you go grab the full size stuff from the van.
>Meanwhile Milwaukee has no issues running big miter saws off a single M18 battery and you don’t need to take a step up until you get to MX Fuel jackhammers and 40,000 lumen lighting systems.
Eh, on that I'm not so confident. DeWalt's miter saws are a 7-1/4" on 20V and for the 12" models both are on 60V batteries with one or two batteries as the options.
Apparently the 120V dual-battery model's AC adapter is faulty and can kill the saw, though.
Yet Milwaukee has a 10” and 12” 18V model.
Remember that voltage isn’t the whole story. That 12.0Ah M18 pack has a lot more energy in it than many of the DeWalt Flexvolt packs and the Makita XGT. 18V tools can put out 120V power as long as the battery is big enough
Or it's because Milwaukee doesn't want to admit its 18V isn't enough.
>18V tools can put out 120V power as long as the battery is big enough
only realistic for lower amp corded tools
to equal a 120 volt, 15 amp saw on an 18v platform you'd need a 100ah battery
A ≠ Ah
An RC lipo can provide 100 times its capacity in current (e.g. 1300Ah > 130A), though doing so will drain it completely in 36 seconds, and the ESR will probably set it on fire if you do it for that long. Still though, a 5Ah lipo battery outputting only 100A might be doable for 10 seconds at a time, with thermal safety. The high current loads are usually only momentary, though powering through steel with an angle grinder or mitre saw may well mean ~30s of ~1kW.
Nope
They sure do sell a lot of tools though.
Good thing 21700 cells can put out like 30A, parallel a few of those and add in an efficient brushless motor and better tech and you end up with some pretty damn powerful cordless tools
> put out 30A
Yeah, but not for long.
God frick off moron
1500w at 18v is over 83 amps
Enjoy your fricking lithum fire
>That 12.0Ah M18 pack has a lot more energy in it than many of the DeWalt Flexvolt packs and the Makita XGT.
M18: 18 V * 12 Ah = 216 Wh
XGT: 216 Wh / 40 V = 5.4 Ah
The 5.0 Ah XGT is comparable at 200 Wh. The 8.0 Ah is 320 Wh.
There's also the weight difference, M18 12.0 Ah is 3.42 lbs, XGT 5.0 Ah is 3.05 lbs. XGT 8.0 Ah is 4.157 lbs.
>18V tools can put out 120V power
This is absolute bullshit. That's not how electricity works.
HVAC/Refrigeration tech. I went with Milwaukee because it's what was recommended by my first boss. My tools are all M18, but I picked up a second M12 impact for my tool bag to shed weight and it's good enough for most field service.
What are the pros and cons of ¼, ⅜, and ½ drives? If I were to only get one for basic home and auto DIY, which would be best? My gut tells me ⅜
Are you talking about impact drivers/wrenches?
If it's just for everyday stuff and maybe breaking lugs loose on a rare occasion, you'll probably be fine with just a 1/4 Impact Driver. That said, you'll be more prepared with just a proper lug wrench always in the car for a spare tire scenario. Check if the one that came with your car will give you enough leverage, in fact. That was an unpleasant surprise when I had a blowout on the freeway in 90 degree weather, I was lucky a Trooper with a bigger one stopped to check out the situation.
If you're getting deeper into auto work, then yeah, add a 3/8" impact wrench to your toolkit.
Impacts and drill motors; basic DIY power tools.
Are ⅜ bits more expensive to come by or something? When I look around online I always just see quarter and half. I'd like to not have to hunt for specialty tools and pay a premium for them if a more sensible alternative is available.
I'm looking to build a basic tool kit, not a professional contractor kit, for reference.
What are you looking to do with it? If you're thinking mainly installing screws into studs/anchors in your walls, building a box, or generally stuff where impact wrenches will just mangle screws? Look for Drill/Driver combo kits. They're usually priced around the same as buying the bare tools separately, but you also get like $200+ in free stuff with them, usually a couple batteries, a charger, and a bag/case.
If you're thinking you're going to drive a lot of heavy duty lags or doing regular work on a car? Add a 1/2" impact wrench. Different tools for different jobs.
Like I said, basic home DIY. Driving screws in wood, bolts on cars, cutting down on manual labour from using ratchets and screwdrivers.
Can I get by with a ⅜? Or should I just use a ½ for everything? If I can just use one, that would be preferable.
Both of those are massive overkill for most of those jobs. You'd only want one of those for the car stuff, and even there you'd probably be fine using a 1/4" to drive it most of the way and then set the torque with a torque wrench to the proper level. This compact bad boy is rated for 1825 in-lbs, and delivers over that* for example, while being extremely compact. And you can use an adapter** to use whatever size socket set you currently have.
* https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nEoyXDbqiaw
** https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nMQoM6drzLs
I'd rather have power I don't need than need more power, you know? I just don't want to drop $300+ only to find partway through a job I need to go to the Home Depot to get something with more grunt.
So ½ is out, and now it's down to ⅜ and ¼.
What can quarter not handle, specifically? Which bit family is cheaper/easier to buy? Like I said, the less stuff I have to collect, the better.
The issue is that for most of what you plan to do, going with just a 3/8 or 1/2 will destroy the fasteners and probably the work piece, too. They're just too much power. It's only once you start going over torque levels above 1500 in-lbs that you're going to start needing something more powerful. Plus a good 1/4" starter set of bits is pretty cheap. Impact-rated socket sets that the larger tools need are going to be a big investment as well.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-MAXFIT-Screwdriving-Set-with-Sleeve-30-Piece-DWAMF30/309474860
And I'll be blunt, no matter what happens, you're going to find that you need a tool you don't have for a job eventually. A drill/driver kit are the best starting point for most of what you'll do around the house.
Are the atomic 20vs worth it over the heavier XR 1/4 impacts? My 778 is starting to wear out after 6+ years of getting the shit beat out of it (Using it to bust shit loose way outside it's torque range, getting left in rain, dropped from RV roofs, ladders, etc.) The LED on the handle is out and the trigger has a few dead spots.
Debating between an angle grinder or a 1/2 inch impact next.
Oh yeah, it's currently the top model they have in 1/4s.
Also a full view of the lineup:
I prefer my subcompact 18V impact driver to my full size one most of the time. I guess it depends what you’re doing.
If you’re driving hundreds of 3” screws into raw lumber all day, maybe the bigger one. But I’m always doing assorted homeowner shit, so like if I’m installing a new door and putting in hinges and locks, the full size guy is easier to tear out screws on finished wood. It seems like the subcompact makes all of it’s power with a lighter hammer but a ton of speed, so you can go lighter on the trigger for less speed and it’s more delicate. And also when I need to do a dozen 3” screws into unfinished wood, the extra fraction of a second the subcompact requires isn’t a big difference on homeowner stuff.
Not sure how light the hammer is on the Atomic model though.
Considering it delivers the most torque of any DW 1/4", probably heavier than you think.
Maybe. I would get the Atomic over the other guy. That thing has a big diameter body too, it’s kind of confusing why they put it in that category.
Also it could have a lighter hammer but more rotational velocity. Remember that it’s m x v^2, so if the hammer has a larger diameter, it’s spinning a lot faster at any given RPM and will hit harder at full speed.
get a 3/8 for general use and a 1/2 for automotive
1/4 is useless
>1/4 is useless
1/4 is for woodworking and carpentry stuff, mainly. And is generally going to be the better tool alongside a drill for DIY stuff.
Nope.
Buy the 3/8” last. It’s the most niche. Get a decent 1/4” impact driver and you can stick socket adapters on there and use it for 90% of the stuff you would use the 3/8” on. And then get something like a mid torque or high torque 1/2” for bigger stuff. The 1/4” impact driver will be far more useful with random jobs around the house whereas the 3/8” is pretty much automotive only, and the 1/2” mid torques these days are so compact with a lot of balls, they will do the stuff the 1/4” driver and socket adapter can’t handle.
This is coming from somebody who has a 3/8” and likes using it for automotive stuff, but I could easily use the 2000in-lb 1/4” impact driver on almost everything I use the 3/8” for, and I use the 1/4” impact drivers just as much for small fasteners on cars and use it them way more outside of automotive jobs. I can’t even remember the last time I grabbed a 3/8” for non-auto.
I don’t think this anon owns any impact wrenches or has used them.
This anon is also sort of dumb.
Nobody really sells 1/4” impact wrenches for a reason, you get an impact driver and use a socket adapter or nut driver.
>3/8” for general use
moronic, unless you work a job where you’re driving a lot of medium size lag bolts somehow? But that’s definitely not general use.
does anyone actually value this tripgay's advice or should I hide him? I always see him posting a lot of bullshit
Or you could listen to these anons
who obviously have never used an impact wrench.
Ask the wrenchin thread on PrepHole, the dudes actually pulling cars apart, a couple of tripfriends. They won’t tell you “3/8” for general use”
>impact wrench
It's called an impact driver you baffoon
If it has a square nose for direct socket use, it's an impact wrench. If it has a 1/4" hex quick connect it's an Impact Driver.
Watch your own ignorance first.
You forgot to put your trip back on
Litterally no actual tradesman calls them "wrenches" larper
I don't think you'd be happy if you tried using a high torque 1/2" impact wrench every time you wanted to drive in a little screw to hang a picture.
Usually, has a bit holder == impact driver, and has a square drive == impact wrench. What you and the rest of the gals down at the glory hole call them doesn't matter
Who's larping? It's you, lying about what the tools are called.
Man I was right, this guy has never touched an impact
He's a pepsi truck driver who has never built or worked on anything in his life. Its pretty obvious how valuable his information is.
Its ESPECIALLY apparent right now as he is referring people to PrepHole for their "expertise". PrepHole is exponentially more useless with far more absolute morons than this board, which isnt great already.
I said specifically ask the couple dudes in one thread who actually know what they are doing.
The rest are busriders like anon who recommended a 3/8” impact wrench for “general purpose” as if it’s a popular homeowner tool.
Is 12V enough to drill holes in my brick wall?
I just want to put up photos and some shelves
If you've got a high tolerance for it being underpowered and having to wait for it to cool down the motor and bit every few minutes? Sure, it'll get the job done.
See
See
If you don’t have any cordless power tools, pick a brand and get an 18V drill + 1/4” impact driver combo. Everybody needs a drill, and the 18V impact driver will handle any screws plus will do nuts and bolts up to like 15mm, and then next get down on a brushless mid torque 1/2”, they’re compact and good for like 600ft-lbs of torque, they’re small enough to use on tons of automotive fasteners and have enough power for all but a couple of the most rusted nuts and bolts.
3/8” won’t even touch lug nuts that haven’t been removed in awhile and/or were applied by morons with overclocked air guns at a tire shop. 1/2” mid torque does lugs all day, current 1/2” high torques are heavy and don’t fit in tight spots and only worthwhile for a couple bolts on a rusty car that the mid-torque can’t budge.
Used to say go high torque 1/2” when the mid torques were only like 300ft-lbs, but they’ve gotten really good.
Is einhell any good? They are quite affordable at my place
So what's stopping me from going red or yellow team and buying bare green tools for shit I don't/won't use often?
Nothing, it sounds fitting with your recent down syndrome diagnoses.
I did this for OPE and lights and random shit. However, Ryobi batteries are so cheap and often included for the same price as a bare tool so you might as well skip the adapter and get a couple Ryobi packs.
That’s also why I shill Ryobi to start with. Get the HP version for shit you’re going to use weekly, get the cheap brushed version for those twice a year tools.
Nice funko pops
DeWalt
Probably not the best you can get, but I've been in the DeWalt ecosystem my whole life and I'm not gonna spend 10k to switch out all my DeWalt for another brand all for the sake of a marginal improvement.
For me? It's the pink pocket dildo.
I prefer the teal flavor ones
I bought a Bosch one because that's what was in the stand. It's a fricking drill. Buy whatever it is, use until it breaks then buy another one.
"choosing a color", feh
Hilti chad checking in.
got this image in a higher res.this makes a good wallpaper.
>no hilti
trash photo. try again.
Just go Ryobi if you are a non-professional. Widest array of tools/powered products and anything else is overkill really.
+1
They claim twice as many cycles on those things. I’m curious because it seems like that middle pouch will get nice and toasty. But they must have done their homework if they’re selling em with a 3 year warranty.
How easy is it exactly to split up a kit, by either returning the stuff you don't want to Home Depot or reselling it? Heard widely variant things and I guess I'm coming here to hear more
corded tools because there's always power where you use them
red ones are the fastest, obviously; add checkered sticker tape for turbo mode
I picked Milwaukee because we use them at work, and I have witnessed them being dropped off a ladder or left outside overnight in the rain and they keep working just fine. Will other brands do that? Probably. But I've seen Milwaukee do it with my own eyes.
It was really only ever a question of Dewalt or Milwaukee anyway, I'm DIY but I do a lot of it and I wanted tools that will last me 10 years.