Considering getting into bicycle touring.
Anyone here done it before? Are routes available online?
Is a 90s steel frame bike with bags ok or will I need an aluminum/carbon fiber?
Thanks
Bicycle Touring
Considering getting into bicycle touring.
Anyone here done it before? Are routes available online?
Is a 90s steel frame bike with bags ok or will I need an aluminum/carbon fiber?
Thanks
First of all, frick off with your reddit spacing
Second of all, don’t shit up the board with duplicate threads
You need to get PrepHole
and relax a bit
buddy.
thanks.
>reddit spacing
Frick
Off
Back
There
You
c**t
Yikes Bucko,
How about
You get on
Your bike
And
Give
The
Jannie
His job back?
Peace.
reddit spacing isnt a real thing new gay. You are trying too hard.
spoken like a true redditor.
>Anyone here done it before?
Yes.
>Are routes available online?
Yes, but bring a map as backup on long-distance trips.
>Is a 90s steel frame bike with bags ok or will I need an aluminum/carbon fiber?
If you already own a bike with just a steel frame, start on that. Upgrade your shit as you get further into the hobby and figure out what you want.
>autismo sees a space too many and shits himself
>autismo sees a thread too many and shits himself
Ask me how I know you filled in a janny application
>Is a 90s steel frame bike with bags ok or will I need an aluminum/carbon fiber?
you need a Rohloff or Pinion above all
Steel is great for touring, it's what I use, just get some basic bags and do a short trip, after a few trial runs you'll work out what you need and what works best for you
I toured excessively on 90s steel mtbs.
A good cromo frame will last forever and is great for all kinds of riding.
If you want to go off-road I'd suggest taking some cues from bikepacking bag setups (without going overboard)
I recommend using a mix between strava and Komoot for making routes. If you live in the states you can google touring routes - they're everywhere across the US. Get a steel bike, you don't want aluminum or carbon for touring. I love bike touring
100% you need carbon fiber. As much as you can really, but at minimum frame and fork, stem, bars, rims.
People will try to tell you that steel or aluminum is just as good but that is just cope from the po folks. Carbon has a much better strength to weight ratio and it can be made strong in the direction it is loaded, whereas metal tubes are the same in all directions.
I also want to get into bike touring.
But im afraid of being hit by a truck or a bus.
Just keep your eyes peeled bro, you can usually see trucks and buses from a ways off and just ride where they aren't.
Get some kind of mirror, so you can see what's happening behind you.
>not afraid of gazillions of cars
>afraid of the occasional bus or truck
get your priorities straight
>Is a 90s steel frame bike with bags ok or will I need an aluminum/carbon fiber?
you will def need carbon fiber, the most expensive one you can afford
I can't do bike touring (or any real PrepHole activity really) because all rural and wilderness Mexico is full of narcos
I also live in México and I do pleny of PrepHole activities.
Bike touring is pretty popular in Mexico. Once I recived in my house a guy that biked from Torreon to Cancun.
Also, this gringo just bicked thru el triangulo dorado, and into a cartel war zone. No problems
You are just a lazy fat frick that is looking for excuses.
>I took pic rel in México.
any recommendation on stuff to do without encountering narcoshits? Jalisco.
Surf fishing.
Jalisco has pretty dope fishing.
And the rooster fish season just started.
You can also kayak (and fish) in chapala.
You can also climb el Nevado de Colima, I know its not in Jalisco. But its only like 3 hours away, its not that far
>Pic, not jalisco, but very close in Nayarit
yep, i've been across the country twice (once Pacific-->Gulf-->Atlantic on a cross bike, and once Banff-->El Paso on a mtb.
For the West to East trip, I used "adventurecycling" for some of the route planning because other regions of the country are really different from what you expect.
For the N to S trip, I used the route from the GDMBR (the race has trackpoints you can download to your phone).
Above a minimum level (has brakes, gears, etc.) the specifics of the bike don't matter much -- a 30 lb bike isn't actually fractionally much heavier than a 20 lb bike (after you consider the weight of the rider + gear).
Bags are my favorite -- I've used a trailer and panniers and bikepacks and prefer panniers or bikepack -- the trailer has a LOT of rolling/wind resistance that really sucks. Also, it's a massive pain to lock up, push through hallways, etc.
Last year I realised I've toured for 40,000 miles. Here's a few tips.
ignore anyone saying weight doesn't matter, unless you're touring on flatlands. Yes a bike is a fraction of your body weight but going up hill, the difference between an 8kg bike and an 18kg bike is really big.
Go light. You'll burn less energy, your body will recover faster, your bike parts will get less cumulative stress (1000x bumps later and that extra weight will take a serious toll)
choose as simple a system as you can manage. Older gearing is usually more robust. 8x,9x,10x are all better choices than modern gearing as the chains stretch slower, the sprockets wear slower and the derailleurs need less precise tuning, and parts are more available in the sticks
Choose standard, easily available parts. 700C wheels are way more common than 650. Shimano is sold in just about every corner of the globe. Shimano is a huge company which means you can get very high level tech for cheap from them compared to a local smaller brand.
For world touring mid-range shimano cup+cone hubs with a steel axle are superior to even the highest grade cartridge bearings, which all have a much shorter shelf life and, due to their construction, can't have the same long reliable axle as a C&C hub.
Carbon is fine for:
Seatpost (in fact, the best option as it'll absorb vibrations and tire you out less)
Saddle
Derailleur cages
Fork
Spacers
Cranks
Brake levers
Rims (but don't go super light)
I'd go for an aluminium or titanium frame+bars, as carbon will be untrustworthy after any crash or ding when handling. Carbon fork is a deal with the devil I'm willing to make as I like the road-buzz reduction and weight loss.
If you opt for disc brakes, get cable activated, not hydraulic. Much easier to fix.
I use stiff carbon shoe insoles with flat pedals for more energy return, and either crocs or sandals with warmer socks+breadbags in cold.
T shirts are lighter and often have odour control. Polyester jerseys STINK.