Do I have to replace only the jack plug or the entire cable? Some say welding it to the headphones would be easier, but it would also certainly be more expansive.
Mine is an old 600ohms version.
4 wires come out of the cable, white, brown, yellow and green.
Where to buy it? Some say the impedance doesn't matter when it comes to the jack, yet every jack are different, different number of connectors or rings etc.
It looks like there is no official "Beyerdynamic DT770 600ohms jack plug" on internet. Only shitty chinese crap.
Get a 3.5 or 6.5 mm stereo plug from jaycar and solder it on.
Can we report headphone threads? I don’t think these overpriced German named headphone gays with a torn up cable are capable of fixing them anyway. And by the time we spend a whole thread saying a spliced cord is going to be 4x as fat as the regular cable, OP always decides his overpriced headphones won’t look cool anymore so he will ask his mom for new ones.
Bro you have multiple threads up at any given time to shill tools you never use, frick off
My point still stands.
If Opie had a Hakko like all the cool kids, he wouldn’t have made this thread.
>Can we report headphone threads?
Our village idiot at his best. Ah yes, the air head who doxed himself a while back, and reported me for doxing him when I pointed it out. He's a hoot.
kys
>Doesn't sound like you got a soldering iron.
Of course I have one, I wouldn't post in PrepHole in first place if I didn't. It's just that some anon in the precedent thread said it was hard to weld the jack while welding the entire cable to headphones was easy. I'm a little confused by that statement, that's why I ask about.
>Unironically trash them and take the iem pill.
Maybe you're right, I don't know. The thing is I can probably fix it for like 5-10$ and have a good headphones again, even if they're worse than I don't know what audiophile shit you shill which would cost me 150-300$. I have no other headphones so fixing them would give me big reward for practically nothing, even if DT770 aren't the top of headphones.
>it was hard to weld the jack while welding the entire cable to headphones was easy
no idiot. what I said was that soldering to the headphone jack is more challenging because you have a smaller area to work in. I linked you what you _should_ solder to, which is a cable with the jack already attached. It is significantly easier to solder wire to wire than wire to jack in this case, and there is more room for error.
However, that 1996 shit tier image you linked is confusing. It looks like your wires might have rubber insulation on them, instead of the enamel crap they use for headphones. This is significant because the enamel is really hard to work with, and the other kind is not. You also have 4 wires instead of 3. So you will need to determine what the wires do. However, I stopped being willing to help you because all I asked was that you post some better fricking photos, including what the jack looks like. Since you can't be bothered to do that, I'm 100% confident you can't solder this shit together properly. I'm sort of wondering if you have an authentic set of headphones, because that wiring isn't how they do headphones wires.
>However, I stopped being willing to help you
Good. moron can't even believe I shot DT770 headphones lmao.
>because all I asked was that you post some better fricking photos, including what the jack looks like.
You asked nothing, it's another thread. I don't even remember you asking more photos. But here we go.
>Since you can't be bothered to do that, I'm 100% confident you can't solder this shit together properly.
>Because you didn't send photos I asked you by telepathy, you can't weld.
Ok.
>I'm sort of wondering if you have an authentic set of headphones, because that wiring isn't how they do headphones wires.
There. You're so smart. Gottem. You got me well. That's true. I was just trolling and never had DT770 this is an old phone wire I found in the trash. I have so much fun trolling random people on PrepHole.
(no)
I thought they might be counterfeit because the wiring is different from all the other ones I’ve seen. Here are your next steps
1) post photo of jack.
2) use multimeter to confirm which color wire goes to each part of jack T R S. Tip, ring, sleeve. 1 will go to tip, 1 to ring, and 2 to sleeve. Write these down.
3) decide if you are going 1/4 or 1/8 inch connector.
4) if 1/4 this isn’t too hard to solder. Buy maybe 4 1/4 inch jacks. Practice soldering to one. Make sure you can fit 4 wires in there with out them touching. If you fail at this, or want to go 1/8 jack…
5) buy jack already attached to wires. Like pic reel
>I thought they might be counterfeit
Counterfeit? That would be surprising no? They're supposed to be old 600ohms ones. Maybe that's why the wires are of different colors.
>1) post photo of jack.
I'm not sure I still have the jack. I certainly don't have it right now, I may have it in all my mess but I would certainly waste time searching it, probably not even finding it back. I didn't see it in years.
>3) decide if you are going 1/4 or 1/8 inch connector.
I said 1/8…
The issue is where do I buy it? Which model? Because obviously most jacks have 3 connectors but there are 4 wires… Should I mail Beyerdynamic directly? I'll do that. Maybe they will be able to tell which jack was aat the tip of the cable (I don't think so but I'll have to try to know). They'll probably answer me "create an account on our site" bullshit or something.
>5) buy jack already attached to wires. Like pic reel
I would be ok doing that but once again how to be sure that will be the proper model?
Thanks for your help.
It isn’t the color of the wire, it’s the number of wires and the technology being used. Modern headphone wires are much thinner, coated in enamel, and there are only 3 of them. I found a vintage pair of these, and they have matching cable like yours.
So this is good news. The new wires are a b***h to work with.
As far as “which part to buy”, it is very straight forward. You need a TRS 1/8 inch jack. The easiest way to do that is to buy this one from Amazon. You don’t need to worry about what Ohms it is. The ohm rating has to do with the driver in the speaker… basically you need more power to drive the higher ohm driver. The jack doesn’t matter.
The challenge here will be to determine what the four wires do, so we can map them to the jack properly.
Aside from color, do all 4 wires look the same? I am going to guess this is what each wire is for
White: left speaker +
Brown: left speaker -
Yellow: right speaker +
Green: right speaker -
We will need to test and confirm this later.
When you purchase the new jack, there will be three colors. Probably
Red:right +
White: left +
Green: Shared -
You will need to test and confirm this. You will need soldering iron, solder, flux, wire stripper , multiple sizes of heat shrink. Also get similar sized wire to practice with.
Assuming my guesses for the wires are correct, you would strip down the wires, adding 4 pieces of heat shrink. You will also slide on several larger pieces that go around the whole cable. Don’t forget or you have to desolder everything and start again.
if you're super anal about audio quality, i wouldn't suggest splicing on a connector with a pre-attached flylead of different wire
while it probably won't change anything to a noticeable degree, mixing wire types can result in impedance mismatches, which can result in signal reflection
remember that wires are essentially resistors, just very low impedance ones
i'm also only talking theory, i don't know if any mismatch in this case can possibly result in an audible difference
>a fukken namegay
How new are you? This isn't facebook homosexual. GTFO.
>namegay
>Bepis (tripgay)
>new
you just played yourself
I know why you have so many unused tools now, only an actual shill would write this. You have never PrepHole'd in your life beois
i used to love my akg712, that was until i widened my horizon.
Unironically trash them and take the iem pill.
over ear headphones are 20th century tech and the dt770 is not only ancient and outclassed, but also was never good in the first place.
A new jack will cost you 5$ shipped and it Doesn't sound like you got a soldering iron.
20$ is the entry chinkfi class that shits all over these
>using IEM to mix audio
Good luck handling anything under 1k
Honestly you aren’t worth helping. I asked you last time to post better pics and you didn’t.
I would just replace the cable, but I am a solderlet.
Tried once soldering the tiny ass cable that broke off my headphones and failed too many times.
the reason we clown on you is that you're illiterate, anon. calling soldering "welding" is the first sign you'd be more likely to burn your thumb than successfully repair this
that said, yes you can replace just the jack. quality doesn't matter, it will sound the same. the reason you can't find a replacement is that the part is the entire cable and the plug is mated to it with plastic at the factory. most companies just don't offer replacement parts. Sweetwater sells the whole assembly as part 973779.
you can get the whole cable from beyerdynamic, they sell every spare part for their headphones
How exactly do you think the wires attach to the plug end?
You still have to solder if you replace just the plug, replacing the plug and doing a good job is just as hard or harder than replacing the whole cable.
look up any headphone jack replacement tutorial on youtube or something, it's not hard and doesn't need soldering experience (though if you're completely new then consider buying multiple minijacks and soldering spare wire to them, so you don't need to shorten the original cable if you mess up and have to trim it back more)
the hardest thing about it is making sure your solder the wires such that the casing still fits over them, and they don't touch each other, as it is a relatively small thing, consider buying some small heatshrink tube as well if you want it to be pretty and ensure no shorts are possible
the impedance doesn't matter, just pick gold-plated jacks for better contacts (like the original), they aren't expensive
OP here, sorry I totally forgot this thread. I'm occupied right now and will read it and answer later.
>unironically saves neckbeard reaction pics
Welp, at least we know you’ll be here all weekend.
Ask your mom to buy you some bluetooth Beats or AirPods like the cool kids.
gay.
Cringe. Off my thread, moron, none cares about your off-topic bullshit. You must go back.
>gay.
You're the only frickin' homosexual there. kys.
I didn't wear them in years, they're filthy because they were in an old cardbox, kys.
1/8. I have one but I'm not sure I can use it with the headphones considering the plugs. picrel.
I need a photo of the original jack to confirm it is TRS ( three connection points )
those are disgusting
filthy pig
Post the jack. Do you want the replacement to be 1/4 or 1/8?
The good news is those look like plastic insulated wires. They are going to be way easier to strip. Do you have a multimeter?
which ones use flat cable like that? Mine has the round coiled cable
Solder
Yellow headphone wire to red jack wire.
White headphone wire to white jack wire.
Green and brown headphone wire to single green jack wire.
Test that it works. If so, slide the small heat shrink up to cover the individual wires. Heat them. This will keep your wires from touching.
Test again.
Next slide up the larger heat shrink to cover the whole mess. I’d add some increasing in size heat shrink to bulk up the thinner jack cable. That will make for a better union when you use the final heat shrink to cover all the wires and join the two cables.
You actually don’t need multimeter for this method.
https://www.amazon.com/Fancasee-Replacement-Connector-Microphone-Speaker/dp/B085HWT6K5/
I linked to wrong Amazon. That is for 1/4 inch. You can do this without solder if you want. Use western union line splice and heat shrink over it.
Lots of yt videos and mods out there https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Ehc6_y9PlaY
You can solder on any 3.5mm jack. Also please stop saying "weld" instead of solder.
Anyway, this is a common problem with the DT770s. Well, not THAT common since the cable is actually pretty durable, but it can fail like that. I have the 80 ohm version myself. If I were you, I'd just go ahead and replace the entire cable. Look online for guides on how to replace the cable with an unpluggable one. People solder a port to the headphones themselves and then you just buy a premade cable that plugs in to the headphones and the other end is a 3.5mm plug. I haven't done it myself yet but if the cable goes bad that's what I'll do. So just look up a guide on how to do that
soldering is a form of welding, it's not wrong to call it welding, it's just a less specific term
all soldering is is the act of welding metals with solder, and all solder is is a filler metal used to weld two pieces metal together
so in practice, there's little difference between "welding" and "soldering", mainly that welding usually involves melting the workpiece or the same material as the workpiece to fuse two workpieces together, while soldering is fusing two workpieces with a different kind of material
English clearly isn’t his first language, chill out
True. But I'm glad anon corrects me since I wanna improve my english.
I'll answer when free.
calling soldering welding isn't technically wrong, but nobody native actually does that, so it's very obvious when someone calls it welding, since it's one of those cases which would only happen in the case of machine translation or a non-native speaker, that is, a generic term which is not incorrect, but never used by a native speaker in this context
^This, and because distinguishing between methods has far more functional importance than pedantically insisting on calling soldering, brazing and welding "welding" which is useless to people who solder, braze and weld.
Only (conventional) welding is a true fusion joint, the reason welding is used for surface buildup (pad welding with or without hardfacing) while solder and braze joints can attach dissimilar materials without any fusion between them (like tool steel and carbide cutting inserts).
https://lucasmilhaupt.com/EN/Brazing-Academy/Brazing-vs-Welding.htm
Soldering and brazing do not melt the base materials but join them by capillary attraction to the solder or braze filler. Welding does fuse them as a single piece.
I'll answer when I'm free, thanks for your answers, anons.
Ok guys I'm here. Slow boards are the best. Frick /misc/.
bump
Bump for what you moron? This thread is dead an OP isn’t coming back.
I think he just likes posting bump ironically
No I'll answer later. I struggle having time those days.
Bump.
Bump
Thanks for bumping this thread so I can tell OP he is a nappy headed zoom zoom dipshit who couldn't boil water let alone fix anything.
Bump.
B
that's a man
s
Gonna contact Beyerdynamics.
The mail will be sent.
N
no u