I also hate the belt loop. I ended up turning it 180 and used super glue to hold it in place. It not only stopped the dogshit sheath from twisting, but also made it more compact, balanced and commfy to carry
>easy to clean >good grip even when wet >doesn't start to smell easily >cheap to manufacture
It's utilitarian I guess. I didn't like the idea as much either in the beginning, but since getting myself a mora it has grown on me. When gutting fish especially I don't have to worry about cleaning being a pain later, and given how cheap the base model is I use it as a semi beater knife anyways. Using a better or more expensive knife is no better for a job like that and I'd worry about staining a better knife or making it smell disgusting for ages.
touching bare metal when it's really coldis a bad idea so a full non metal handle and guard are better, bic lighters become brittle if they are really cold so the wrong plastic would be a bad choice too but they've been making knives for a while and it a solid ir use to be handle
whenever i'm field servicing a chainsaw i'll get some leftover bar oil on my fingers and smear it on my knife. seems to work well so far, and the mix of sawdust and oil that accumulates under to bar cover is primo firestarter
>and the mix of sawdust and oil that accumulates under to bar cover is primo firestarter
there's a tip
i hate that everytime i try to look shit up about knives i just get the most hyper autistic insular
knife community shit possible that is expensive as hell and not practical at all to actually carry with you.
how the hell do i learn to sharpen a knife without investing in a ton of equipment i cant carry with me
all you need is a whetstone. the guided sharpening systems are cringe.
I got my stone for like $22 on aliexpress and it works well.
idk if you would want to carry a whetstone with you though. but once you get the fundamentals of sharpening down, you will know what you could get that is appropriate for yourself to carry with you.
you don't sharpen your knife in the field, simple as. small whetstones are finnicky and you'll never get that great of an edge with them. you can do just as good of a job rubbing your knife on a rock if you for whatever reason really need to repair your knife in the field. if you avoid expensive homosexual collector art piece knives and use actual outdoor cheapshit it will be soft enough to do that.
there's also tricks like this for field sharpening, which work pretty good: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ISwONmcxdUs
[...]
guided sharpening systems are cringe and worse than a whetstone for le personal outdoors knife collection. they are a god damn blessing for mass-sharpening kitchen knives.
I would agree with you until I tried sharpening my Esees on the little $10 Smith’s pull thru keychain sharpener. That thing puts a worthwhile edge on the blade within a few seconds. Not sure if it’s the blade geometry, the steel, or both, but it’s absolutely the best result I have ever gotten on a knoife with an easy sharpener like that.
you don't sharpen your knife in the field, simple as. small whetstones are finnicky and you'll never get that great of an edge with them. you can do just as good of a job rubbing your knife on a rock if you for whatever reason really need to repair your knife in the field. if you avoid expensive homosexual collector art piece knives and use actual outdoor cheapshit it will be soft enough to do that.
there's also tricks like this for field sharpening, which work pretty good: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ISwONmcxdUs
all you need is a whetstone. the guided sharpening systems are cringe.
I got my stone for like $22 on aliexpress and it works well.
idk if you would want to carry a whetstone with you though. but once you get the fundamentals of sharpening down, you will know what you could get that is appropriate for yourself to carry with you.
guided sharpening systems are cringe and worse than a whetstone for le personal outdoors knife collection. they are a god damn blessing for mass-sharpening kitchen knives.
>you don't sharpen your knife in the field.
This is a moronic take, I always take sharpening equipment with me when i go out. A DMT diafold duo (course/fine) and a small ceramic honing rod take up literally no space and will cover 100% of your needs. All you really need is the ceramic hone, the diafold is just in case you actually end up damaging your knife edge beyond what the hone can handle, which I have never had happen.
what do you do in the woods where you're going to fully wear the edge of a blade out multiple times? or are you just stuck on that boy scout paranoid about your gear failing two of everything mentality?
If I am just out for the day doing whatever I obviously don't bring stuff like that...but if I am setting up a camp I will. I like to carve tent stakes and then throw them into the fire, honing my knife gives me something to do while sitting around the fire.
I use an axe sharpening puck. Out knife is a quarter inch thick 7" blade of 5160.
Its not expensive and you don't need any name brands, its essentially all the same shit. You can get a solid strong bowie made in Pakistan for like 20 bucks.
Also don't cover anything in oil. When you sheath it, moisture will collect. This goes for any oil or shit israelite ballistol. I've used reneissance wax for years, never had any trouble. A little tub lasts a hell of a long time.
Also never buy a knife you're not willing to lose or trash up. I have an intense hatred of homosexuals buying super fancy showpiece they maybe trim a leaf with once, its a total waste of money unless you're really rich or something.
my chapstick is apparently some kind of emulsion containing water and it creates microrust. I use olive oil, it doesn't gum up like sunflower which is the most common oil in my country.
>some kind of emulsion containing water
Didn't know that, fren, thank you. I'll stop recommending it. I've got a fire kit with a film container filled with cotton makeup pads layered with vaseline, and use a dab of vaseline on my carbon steel knives when out. I usually just say 'chapstick' because I'm lazy and don't want to type out the film container thing.
I use olive oil, works well enough. To be fair, anything that's oily or fatty will work in a pinch, be it olive oil, mineral oil, butter, vax, tallow or lard. Just make sure it's non drying, otherwise it'll go all sticky on you.
>mineral oil
This is the best in my opinion. Get the light kind from the pharmacy. $5 for a lifetime supply. >food safe >will not go rancid or harden >also handy for cutting boards, wooden bowls, and anything you would use WD-40 on (squeaky hinges etc) >can be used for first aid on rashes etc
normal kitchen oil works just fine, i have even used butter in a pinch.
the patricians choice
i hate that everytime i try to look shit up about knives i just get the most hyper autistic insular
knife community shit possible that is expensive as hell and not practical at all to actually carry with you.
how the hell do i learn to sharpen a knife without investing in a ton of equipment i cant carry with me
just get a cheap wetstone and start practicing on old kitchen knifes. Watch a few Youtube tutorials.
whenever i'm field servicing a chainsaw i'll get some leftover bar oil on my fingers and smear it on my knife. seems to work well so far, and the mix of sawdust and oil that accumulates under to bar cover is primo firestarter
Opinions on the glock brand glock knife? I want one for heavier bushcraft stuff. My mora is for gutting game and my opinel for cutting food. I need something for sticking into dirty, cutting wood, etc etc. Something that I'm not wary of getting dirty
makes a better prybar than out knife
thick as frick, indestructible and the best bottle opener on the planet
mine wont take or keep an edge for shit but maybe they improved it in the 20 years since my dad gave me mine
>the best oil
Why do you need anything the best? 20% effort usually get 80% result. Daily used knife doesn't need oil anyway. I personally use cooking oil or flax oil because it will touch my food
Marine Corps Medic here; I spend a lot of time in the field.
I use RemOil on all my knives and trauma sheers. Works well to keep water and rust at bay, so long as you ensure to dry them off as well as possible when they get wet. Any sign of rust, take a brass brush to the rust, with CLR if its deeper than surface rust.
Who the frick oils a knife? Are you guys out there with iron blades or some shit? I've used and abused tools outdoors for years and I don't care how frickin shiny it is... My biggest problem is losing them, and oiling would only make them more slippery. No way
It's a good knife I just don't like the belt loop.
I also hate the belt loop. I ended up turning it 180 and used super glue to hold it in place. It not only stopped the dogshit sheath from twisting, but also made it more compact, balanced and commfy to carry
Is there a reason for the unfathomably shit garbage plastic handle?
It's utilitarian
>easy to clean
>good grip even when wet
>doesn't start to smell easily
>cheap to manufacture
It's utilitarian I guess. I didn't like the idea as much either in the beginning, but since getting myself a mora it has grown on me. When gutting fish especially I don't have to worry about cleaning being a pain later, and given how cheap the base model is I use it as a semi beater knife anyways. Using a better or more expensive knife is no better for a job like that and I'd worry about staining a better knife or making it smell disgusting for ages.
touching bare metal when it's really coldis a bad idea so a full non metal handle and guard are better, bic lighters become brittle if they are really cold so the wrong plastic would be a bad choice too but they've been making knives for a while and it a solid ir use to be handle
>and the mix of sawdust and oil that accumulates under to bar cover is primo firestarter
there's a tip
i hate that everytime i try to look shit up about knives i just get the most hyper autistic insular
knife community shit possible that is expensive as hell and not practical at all to actually carry with you.
how the hell do i learn to sharpen a knife without investing in a ton of equipment i cant carry with me
Test
all you need is a whetstone. the guided sharpening systems are cringe.
I got my stone for like $22 on aliexpress and it works well.
idk if you would want to carry a whetstone with you though. but once you get the fundamentals of sharpening down, you will know what you could get that is appropriate for yourself to carry with you.
I would agree with you until I tried sharpening my Esees on the little $10 Smith’s pull thru keychain sharpener. That thing puts a worthwhile edge on the blade within a few seconds. Not sure if it’s the blade geometry, the steel, or both, but it’s absolutely the best result I have ever gotten on a knoife with an easy sharpener like that.
you don't sharpen your knife in the field, simple as. small whetstones are finnicky and you'll never get that great of an edge with them. you can do just as good of a job rubbing your knife on a rock if you for whatever reason really need to repair your knife in the field. if you avoid expensive homosexual collector art piece knives and use actual outdoor cheapshit it will be soft enough to do that.
there's also tricks like this for field sharpening, which work pretty good: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ISwONmcxdUs
guided sharpening systems are cringe and worse than a whetstone for le personal outdoors knife collection. they are a god damn blessing for mass-sharpening kitchen knives.
>you don't sharpen your knife in the field.
This is a moronic take, I always take sharpening equipment with me when i go out. A DMT diafold duo (course/fine) and a small ceramic honing rod take up literally no space and will cover 100% of your needs. All you really need is the ceramic hone, the diafold is just in case you actually end up damaging your knife edge beyond what the hone can handle, which I have never had happen.
what do you do in the woods where you're going to fully wear the edge of a blade out multiple times? or are you just stuck on that boy scout paranoid about your gear failing two of everything mentality?
If I am just out for the day doing whatever I obviously don't bring stuff like that...but if I am setting up a camp I will. I like to carve tent stakes and then throw them into the fire, honing my knife gives me something to do while sitting around the fire.
I use an axe sharpening puck. Out knife is a quarter inch thick 7" blade of 5160.
Its not expensive and you don't need any name brands, its essentially all the same shit. You can get a solid strong bowie made in Pakistan for like 20 bucks.
Also don't cover anything in oil. When you sheath it, moisture will collect. This goes for any oil or shit israelite ballistol. I've used reneissance wax for years, never had any trouble. A little tub lasts a hell of a long time.
Also never buy a knife you're not willing to lose or trash up. I have an intense hatred of homosexuals buying super fancy showpiece they maybe trim a leaf with once, its a total waste of money unless you're really rich or something.
mineral oil at home, chapstick in the bush
>chapstick
my chapstick is apparently some kind of emulsion containing water and it creates microrust. I use olive oil, it doesn't gum up like sunflower which is the most common oil in my country.
>some kind of emulsion containing water
Didn't know that, fren, thank you. I'll stop recommending it. I've got a fire kit with a film container filled with cotton makeup pads layered with vaseline, and use a dab of vaseline on my carbon steel knives when out. I usually just say 'chapstick' because I'm lazy and don't want to type out the film container thing.
I use olive oil, works well enough. To be fair, anything that's oily or fatty will work in a pinch, be it olive oil, mineral oil, butter, vax, tallow or lard. Just make sure it's non drying, otherwise it'll go all sticky on you.
>mineral oil
This is the best in my opinion. Get the light kind from the pharmacy. $5 for a lifetime supply.
>food safe
>will not go rancid or harden
>also handy for cutting boards, wooden bowls, and anything you would use WD-40 on (squeaky hinges etc)
>can be used for first aid on rashes etc
Ballistol oil
normal kitchen oil works just fine, i have even used butter in a pinch.
the patricians choice
just get a cheap wetstone and start practicing on old kitchen knifes. Watch a few Youtube tutorials.
Wd-40 for working knives
Mineral oil for cooking knives
I'd add that as its your first knife. You dont need to oil stainless steels.
Also the more of a mirror polish and keeping your blade clean with help prevent rust.
I use olive oil, seems to work well enough
I use obanaufs LP. It's basically beeswax and tree resin. And keeps my knives in good health and is food safe.
Depends on if you’ll be using it on food. I just use the grease from my nose on my moras.
Based nurgle-worshipping PrepHoleists
whenever i'm field servicing a chainsaw i'll get some leftover bar oil on my fingers and smear it on my knife. seems to work well so far, and the mix of sawdust and oil that accumulates under to bar cover is primo firestarter
olive oil,
you can use it on your pot too to stop food sticking and extra calories.
Rub your temples and wipe your skin oil on your blade.
To be honest I never got in contact with this idea. You put a little bit of oil on the blade to protect it from oxidation, right?
Do you need to oil your knife if it's inox steel?
Need to, no, but it doesn't hurt it.
Opinions on the glock brand glock knife? I want one for heavier bushcraft stuff. My mora is for gutting game and my opinel for cutting food. I need something for sticking into dirty, cutting wood, etc etc. Something that I'm not wary of getting dirty
I like mine. It's cheap well made and gets sharp easily. Also quite robust.
makes a better prybar than out knife
thick as frick, indestructible and the best bottle opener on the planet
mine wont take or keep an edge for shit but maybe they improved it in the 20 years since my dad gave me mine
>Best Oil for outdoor knives?
cum
>the best oil
Why do you need anything the best? 20% effort usually get 80% result. Daily used knife doesn't need oil anyway. I personally use cooking oil or flax oil because it will touch my food
Go to the pharmacy and get food safe/ingestible mineral oil. Won't go rancid, super cheap, useful for a lot of stuff.
Marine Corps Medic here; I spend a lot of time in the field.
I use RemOil on all my knives and trauma sheers. Works well to keep water and rust at bay, so long as you ensure to dry them off as well as possible when they get wet. Any sign of rust, take a brass brush to the rust, with CLR if its deeper than surface rust.
Who the frick oils a knife? Are you guys out there with iron blades or some shit? I've used and abused tools outdoors for years and I don't care how frickin shiny it is... My biggest problem is losing them, and oiling would only make them more slippery. No way
its to prevent corrosion on high carbon steel knives
the air will rust carbon steel here if you don't lol
apple cider vinegar overnight, olive or mineral oil after
Any oil. Motor, wd40, vegetable, bacon grease, It all works. The oils that spoil should be replaced regularly.