Greetings PrepHole I saw this deal on a lower and finally decided to start building my first rifle. Only problem is, I'm retarded and have no clue what I'm doing.
I know a few things of what I want and have a poverty budget.
>16"-20" barrel
>I think those M4 triangle irons look like aids garbage.
>5.56 is preferred
Maybe should have bought this instead, but as I stated I'm retarded
It's fine, just needs an upper. There's nothing to assemble really, you'd only be installing an upper by utilizing two captive pins in the lower. Every standard AR-15 upper will snap in place although some may rattle a little bit which doesn't really affect anything.
If you want to avoid the M4/M16 front sight post your best bet is going for a free floated tube around the barrel that has picatinny rail on top and slap some Magpul sights on top of that.
https://palmettostatearmory.com/psa-16-mid-length-5-56-nato-1-7-nitride-13-5-lightweight-m-lok-upper-with-bcg-ch-mbus-sight-set-5165447592.html
This one here comes with the sights and has a bolt carrier/charging handle. Slap that on and you're in business for about $500 all said/done.
RF and Bear Creek really try hard to undercut PSA but only accomplish a few bucks cheaper with substantially lower quality to get there. There's a lot of good options if you want to spend more than PSA to get something nicer, but I wouldn't advise going any cheaper.
Are those sights removable?
Yes
This is a good tard proof option.
It has a mid length gas system which means less recoil impulse than a carbine gas system, it has a free floated handguard for better accuracy (although it doesn't actually matter), and comes with removable flip up sights.
You still need a light and a sling but this upper is gtg.
I might just go with that when I get paid, thank you anon
Me see post you write and me not happy! You say put upper on lower easy, but that's a big lie! It's actually really hard and need special tools. If you not do it right, your gun can be broken or even dangerous!
And you say some uppers rattle, but that's not good! Loose parts can break or fall off when you're shooting! Why you say something like that?!
And you talk about sights and say don't use M4/M16 front sight post. Instead, use free floated tube with Picatinny rail and Magpul sights. But who says that's the only way?! There are many different kinds of sights, and some people actually like M4/M16 front sight post!
Lastly, you recommend one specific upper from Palmetto State Armory and say RF and Bear Creek not good quality. But how do you know that?! Did you try them all?! You need to do own research and find what works best for you, because everyone has different opinions on what makes good upper!
>Didn't actually read my post
>Makes an even more retarded post
baste laboring mans rifle, only problem with mine is it ate 2 sets of gas rings before it finally stopped
Wait for memorial day and check PSA for a flat top (no iron sights) AR.
Already bought the lower
Then buy the upper you want then. You'll be able to get one cheap as fuck..
Don't know what to get, that's why I made the thread
Radical is dog shit.
Just get a PSA upper in whatever price range you want, mid length, carbine, 16, 20, doesn't matter, whatever you like.
https://palmettostatearmory.com/psa-18-rifle-length-223-wylde-1-7-stainless-steel-15-lightweight-m-lok-upper-with-bcg-ch-mbus-sight-set-516446673.html
Here. .223wylde is the chamber that happily accepts both 5.56 and .223 ammo, 18" is patrician and this thing will probably be on even deeper sale in a few weeks.
Remember, whatever you buy you'll need a BCG and charging handle to make it work. Don't forget a couple of mags.
be different, be special
https://www.brownells.com/gun-parts/rifle-parts/rifle-receivers-parts/ar-15-a1-complete-upper-receiver-5.56-piston/
Pick the contrarian (cool) option
https://atlanticfirearms.com/wolf-a1-upper
PSA is hated on because it is entry teir. don't let it get to you.
the AR-15 is an intermediate rifle. this in civilian terms means it is fit as a varmint rifle. anyways that lower uses mil-spec parts and is as stoner/arma-lite and colt originally designed the rifle.
Barrel
>14.5"
this would make the rifle an SBR, also as a civilian this is pretty gucci and requires you to know what you are doing.
>16"
this is a result of a compromise of needing to shorten the rifle for CQB and retain the power created by barrel length.
>20"
the original barrel gives the maximum power in terms of diminishing returns for 5.56mm.
>1/7 twist
intended for 62 gr projectiles aka M855.
>1/8 twist
intended as a compromise.
>1/9 twist
a relaxed twist, better for lighter rounds like the M193, which is a 55gr.
Upper reciever:
>free float
generally regarded as superior in all aspects. easier to mount kit.
>"military" hand-guard
cheaper because so many were made. can perform just as well, suffers at distance from barrel warping.
>"flat-top"
an upper that has a picca-tinny rail rather than a fixed rear sight.
>carbine/mid-length/rifle gas system
it is best to use the gas system that matches your barrel length, usually having a longer gas system is better, but some older barrels have a shorter gas system. they are easy to change out with a barrel, so pick up one, learn it then move on.
>fixed post/low profile/ regulated gas block
a fixed post is the "mil-spec" low profile is mostly necessary to have a free float, and gas block regulators are really only needed for piston guns and suppressors.
>optic
get irons to start then move on later, I need an entire post to explain optics.
based up your choice and budget I would recommend you by a completed flat-top mil-spec upper which is a 16" 1/7 twist mid-length flat-top with a fix front sight post, buy a cheap flip up rear sight.
the Bolt carrier group
>neutered/un-neutered bolt carrier
this is a Bolt carrier that has some metal shaved off at the back so it cannot operate as a full auto rifle. this are sometimes cheaper than a original. as a civilian shooter you probably will never need this unless you use a 3MR/reset trigger.
>the bolt itself
type doesn't matter much, what does matter is that it is individually inspected and not batch tested. defects in the bolt face can cause catastrophic problems.
Magazine
I am basically going to say that this matters a little, get a magpul or a stnag magazine (metal), they are the standard of fit and so fit the most tolerances.
I can go into more detail about nuance but this should be enough to educate you for your first buy. practice and study is all you can do from here.
if you want some study material check out
>inrange, the WWSD project.
this is them trying to make a quality poor fag rifle.
>AR gun smithing/takedown/cleaning/review videos
you can learn a lot about nuance, some of the gun parts sellers like brownells make great videos for you to digest.
some ideas you can use to learn more:
>Bolt Carrier Group
>AR buffer system
>AR trigger pack
>AR free float
>Forward assist
>5.56 vs .223