Anyone know anything about old blenders?

Anyone know anything about old blenders? I want to replace the sticky switches with a pot but have no idea how this hit works. When i test with a multimeter in continuity mode all the switch outputs are connected.

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  1. 2 months ago
    Anonymous

    >I want to replace the sticky switches with a pot
    well that would burn out the POT. you would need a rheostat that can handle the full amperage of the blender.

    • 2 months ago
      Anonymous

      honestly just meant knob or slide in general but good to know.

      • 2 months ago
        Anonymous

        the only thing that would make it infinitely adjustable is a variac that can handle 10 amps, or a variable triac that can handle 10 amps I'm a little fuzzy on whether a triac can handle an induction load that high.

  2. 2 months ago
    Anonymous

    in old blenders there is a separate winding on the motor for each speed. but each one goes to a common neutral. a pot will not work.

    • 2 months ago
      Anonymous

      I though this might be the case. So essentially the higher the speed, the more windings? Does this mean I could replace the buttons with switches (rated for wattage of the blender ofc)? On all the blenders of this type I have seen there is a mechanism to prevent multiple buttons from being down at the same time, any idea what would happen if this was not included and two buttons were both pressed down? I imagine it would just default to the coil with more windings...

      • 2 months ago
        Anonymous

        >any idea what would happen if this was not included and two buttons were both pressed down?
        not sure, short out, run weird, never tried it.

        • 2 months ago
          Anonymous

          everything i google about blenders is showing the fricking 3d graphics software lmao, truly has never been a worse time to be doing maintenance on a blender

          • 2 months ago
            Anonymous

            google vintage blender repair
            Get good.

            • 2 months ago
              Anonymous
              • 2 months ago
                Anonymous

                yeah that google search is never going to find what you are looking for because:
                A - you can't press 2 buttons at the same time
                B - google is moronic now, and also it's highly unlikely someone would post about doing that.

              • 2 months ago
                Anonymous

                🙁

              • 2 months ago
                Anonymous

                also it appears there is a date inside of 3-72. so 1972.

              • 2 months ago
                Anonymous

                been trying to find a date on this thing. figured that was just a model no but that makes more sense. Its a sears 7 speed if that means anything to you

              • 2 months ago
                Anonymous

                >Its a sears 7 speed if that means anything to you
                I think we had one when I was a kid.

              • 2 months ago
                Anonymous

                what is the long number under the red wire?

              • 2 months ago
                Anonymous

                2975am112 which had no google results lol. Some more helpful info would probably be the tag on bottom which says

                SEARS ROEBUCK AND CO.
                MODEL NO. 400. 829200

              • 2 months ago
                Anonymous

                secret of finding sears parts and model numbers is remove the period.
                so you would search for sears 400829200

                the switch part number is
                3086-650-0000

                of course no one has it.

              • 2 months ago
                Anonymous

                super helpful to know, thanks. Wish it was something cooler than just switches, still kinda curious about mechanism they use to mechanically only allow one at a time might look into it later.

              • 2 months ago
                Anonymous

                prepare to have your mind blown I guess

              • 2 months ago
                Anonymous
    • 2 months ago
      Anonymous

      >each one goes to a common neutral.
      This is incorrect. The segments of the motor winding are in series. The switches are interlocked so that you can't short circuit any segment(s) of the winding. A single pole rotary switch would suffice, but good luck finding one that is both affordable and has high enough current capacity. Why can't you clean the gunky switch assy that you currently have?
      Most of the solutions I've read here are cost prohibitive vs. just buying a thrift store replacement.

      • 2 months ago
        Anonymous

        oh this is interesting. so essentially the coil is tapped in several places? yeah ive already cleaned the switches and it works now just was kinda curious to be honest and thought it would be funny

  3. 2 months ago
    Anonymous

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C97WPN4N

    lock it in high speed plug it in to this and control it with the dial and switch.

    • 2 months ago
      Anonymous

      the only thing that would make it infinitely adjustable is a variac that can handle 10 amps, or a variable triac that can handle 10 amps I'm a little fuzzy on whether a triac can handle an induction load that high.

      Are these essentially the same suggestion? Is the amazon listing just a triac dimmer or something different? does each switch having its own winding increase the torque or something wondering why they wouldn't just go with a circuit like this in the original design...

      • 2 months ago
        Anonymous

        yes they are the same suggestion from me, and the reason they did it the way that they did is because it's cheap, and reliable.
        clunk clunk switches and separate windings are very cheap to make. just by the color I would say your blender is from the 70's.

        • 2 months ago
          Anonymous

          Yeah its an old one thats for sure. I love the old style buttons but these are so gummed up not even worth keeping. I suppose I could always find a donor blender, but it might be more fun to just deck this one out, see if i can put a pi zero in it and ssh into that jawn. thanks for the triac rec gonna start looking into it

          • 2 months ago
            Anonymous

            >but these are so gummed up not even worth keeping
            they can be cleaned. wd-40 or electronic contact cleaner would work.

            • 2 months ago
              Anonymous

              Do you think? I don't have any electrical contact cleaner and was wary about wd 40 because some nerds were saying it was flammable...

              I tried to get some rubbing alcohol in there (which i am now realizing is also flammable) but I didn't have any q tips or anything that could really get in there.

              Ah frick it im gonna spray it with some wd40

              • 2 months ago
                Anonymous

                >Ah frick it im gonna spray it with some wd40
                spray it
                exercise the buttons
                spray it
                then used compressed air or wipe out as much of the WD 40 as you can.
                if you clean it with alcohol it will evaporate.

              • 2 months ago
                Anonymous

                and maybe to nobody in this thread's surprise save mine, now works like a charm. and to think I was this close from putting a fricking arduino in it lmao. still might sounds kinda fun but might get a less classic looking blender for that would hate to ruin this.

              • 2 months ago
                Anonymous

                glad to hear it.

              • 2 months ago
                Anonymous

                take it apart, clean it, put it back together is universal first step for repairing anything. my dad made a career out of it despite not being mechanically inclined at all.

  4. 2 months ago
    Anonymous

    Looks a bit like the motor in a cordless drill.
    Maybe you could use the speed control from one in the blender.

    • 2 months ago
      Anonymous

      > cordless
      I meant corded.
      … too many cordless shill threads in diy

  5. 2 months ago
    Anonymous

    Ypu could get a rotary switch rated for your amps amd enough positions for the speeds you want

  6. 2 months ago
    sage

    >Anyone know anything about old blenders?
    yes

    • 2 months ago
      Anonymous

      oh not sage that was still there from a slide thread

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