Anyone know anything about old blenders? I want to replace the sticky switches with a pot but have no idea how this hit works. When i test with a multimeter in continuity mode all the switch outputs are connected.
Anyone know anything about old blenders?
>I want to replace the sticky switches with a pot
well that would burn out the POT. you would need a rheostat that can handle the full amperage of the blender.
honestly just meant knob or slide in general but good to know.
the only thing that would make it infinitely adjustable is a variac that can handle 10 amps, or a variable triac that can handle 10 amps I'm a little fuzzy on whether a triac can handle an induction load that high.
in old blenders there is a separate winding on the motor for each speed. but each one goes to a common neutral. a pot will not work.
I though this might be the case. So essentially the higher the speed, the more windings? Does this mean I could replace the buttons with switches (rated for wattage of the blender ofc)? On all the blenders of this type I have seen there is a mechanism to prevent multiple buttons from being down at the same time, any idea what would happen if this was not included and two buttons were both pressed down? I imagine it would just default to the coil with more windings...
>any idea what would happen if this was not included and two buttons were both pressed down?
not sure, short out, run weird, never tried it.
everything i google about blenders is showing the fricking 3d graphics software lmao, truly has never been a worse time to be doing maintenance on a blender
google vintage blender repair
Get good.
yeah that google search is never going to find what you are looking for because:
A - you can't press 2 buttons at the same time
B - google is moronic now, and also it's highly unlikely someone would post about doing that.
🙁
also it appears there is a date inside of 3-72. so 1972.
been trying to find a date on this thing. figured that was just a model no but that makes more sense. Its a sears 7 speed if that means anything to you
>Its a sears 7 speed if that means anything to you
I think we had one when I was a kid.
what is the long number under the red wire?
2975am112 which had no google results lol. Some more helpful info would probably be the tag on bottom which says
SEARS ROEBUCK AND CO.
MODEL NO. 400. 829200
secret of finding sears parts and model numbers is remove the period.
so you would search for sears 400829200
the switch part number is
3086-650-0000
of course no one has it.
super helpful to know, thanks. Wish it was something cooler than just switches, still kinda curious about mechanism they use to mechanically only allow one at a time might look into it later.
prepare to have your mind blown I guess
>each one goes to a common neutral.
This is incorrect. The segments of the motor winding are in series. The switches are interlocked so that you can't short circuit any segment(s) of the winding. A single pole rotary switch would suffice, but good luck finding one that is both affordable and has high enough current capacity. Why can't you clean the gunky switch assy that you currently have?
Most of the solutions I've read here are cost prohibitive vs. just buying a thrift store replacement.
oh this is interesting. so essentially the coil is tapped in several places? yeah ive already cleaned the switches and it works now just was kinda curious to be honest and thought it would be funny
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C97WPN4N
lock it in high speed plug it in to this and control it with the dial and switch.
Are these essentially the same suggestion? Is the amazon listing just a triac dimmer or something different? does each switch having its own winding increase the torque or something wondering why they wouldn't just go with a circuit like this in the original design...
yes they are the same suggestion from me, and the reason they did it the way that they did is because it's cheap, and reliable.
clunk clunk switches and separate windings are very cheap to make. just by the color I would say your blender is from the 70's.
Yeah its an old one thats for sure. I love the old style buttons but these are so gummed up not even worth keeping. I suppose I could always find a donor blender, but it might be more fun to just deck this one out, see if i can put a pi zero in it and ssh into that jawn. thanks for the triac rec gonna start looking into it
>but these are so gummed up not even worth keeping
they can be cleaned. wd-40 or electronic contact cleaner would work.
Do you think? I don't have any electrical contact cleaner and was wary about wd 40 because some nerds were saying it was flammable...
I tried to get some rubbing alcohol in there (which i am now realizing is also flammable) but I didn't have any q tips or anything that could really get in there.
Ah frick it im gonna spray it with some wd40
>Ah frick it im gonna spray it with some wd40
spray it
exercise the buttons
spray it
then used compressed air or wipe out as much of the WD 40 as you can.
if you clean it with alcohol it will evaporate.
and maybe to nobody in this thread's surprise save mine, now works like a charm. and to think I was this close from putting a fricking arduino in it lmao. still might sounds kinda fun but might get a less classic looking blender for that would hate to ruin this.
glad to hear it.
take it apart, clean it, put it back together is universal first step for repairing anything. my dad made a career out of it despite not being mechanically inclined at all.
Looks a bit like the motor in a cordless drill.
Maybe you could use the speed control from one in the blender.
> cordless
I meant corded.
… too many cordless shill threads in diy
Ypu could get a rotary switch rated for your amps amd enough positions for the speeds you want
>Anyone know anything about old blenders?
yes
oh not sage that was still there from a slide thread