Gentlemen I've had an idea that I want to run by you guys because obviously I'd ask /k/ about it first.
So Desert Tech produces the HTI, right? Chambered in a few different hard hitters, the one I've got my eye on is 50 BMG.
They make and sell chassis, and individual barrel/bolt/mag "caliber change kits".
The design they've got is similar to an AR, where there is a barrel extension at the rear of the chamber, and your bolt and bolt lugs lock into that when you chamber a round, so they're independent from the receiver.
So what happens if I just buy the "caliber change kit" for $2500 or whatever, and 3D model and print my own chassis similar in function to theirs?
Would this be a viable way to obtain my own 3d printed, ultra-accurate, repeating bolt action anti-material rifle?
For accuracy, you still need to rigidly mount a precision optic to this barrel extension, which FDM 3D-printing is not suitable for. Then you need to guide .50 BMG recoil into your shoulder, which a lot of FDM materials really don't like. Finally, you need closely tolerances internals so make sure your custom design trigger doesn't bind, which would hurt practical accuracy at best and complete functionality at worst.
I very much like the idea though, shame the bolt and barrel are so damn expensive. Maybe start with an AR-10 barrel?
>Maybe start with an AR-10 barrel
I actually did buy a chambered AR10 blank with no gas port from GM rifle barrels to build a straight pull upper, which is sort of where this idea came from (I was trying to see how cheaply I could make a sub-MOA upper. Turns out, ~$450+s/h for barrel, bolt, CH, and stripped upper).
Building a standalone chassis for that would probably be a better place to start.
Desert Tech does offer the SRS-A2 conversion kits also though, in 308 and 338 LM.
The 338 kits are available at opticsplanet with a 15% off code right now for like 1700.
Still a crazy amount of money for a silly idea, but my thought is kind of if it doesn't work out well, I can always drop the money on the actual stripped chassis and just put the conversion kit I've already bought in it.
The HTI chassis is crazy money though, something like $4500. The SRS is much more reasonable, but still a tough pill to swallow.
>So what happens if I just buy the "caliber change kit" for $2500 or whatever, and 3D model and print my own chassis similar in function to theirs?
you die when you test fire your somehow worse than a vulcan hesse designed 50 cal
>you die when you test fire your somehow worse than a vulcan hesse designed 50 cal
Please do explain how it would blow up, if the design locks together a bolt and barrel that are known to hold the required pressure?
>Pull trigger
>KABLOOIE!
There's your proof
So, no proof. moron.
>Where does the energy go?
If properly designed: into the stock, as it would in the Desert Tech.
>locked breach that you blindly assume is a sealed system
Which we can, because it is a sealed system in the Desert Tech.
In all fairness there is still bolt thrust being exerted, which means the barrel and bolt assembly wants to recoil backward. Ya gotta think that bit through, but that's about it.
Here's an interesting thought you turbomoron
Where does the energy go?
All the pressure contained in your locked breach that you blindly assume is a sealed system
Does it just
Evaporate?
>*Makes evaporation sounds with mouth*
I don't think so.
Holy shit you're moronic. You're the MOST moronic.
>All the pressure contained in your locked breach that you blindly assume is a sealed system
>Does it just
>Evaporate?
It goes down THE FRICKING BARREL, YOU ABSOLUTE MONG
Professor, why are we assuming that the brass obturates perfectly and there is no leakage into the action?
Because that's what it does in the Desert Tech. Sure, you should still design a fail-safe mechanism for pressure venting a case rupture (looking at you here, Mark), but that's not exactly the default operating procedure.
Close your mouth (I know it's not normal for you to not have it hanging slack), breathe through your nostrils, take a second to think, and explain to me how it works in the actual Desert Tech HTI if I'm the moron here.
the thing that holds the barrel is important and cant be made of plastic garbage.material is not as important as it would be if the bolt didnt lock into the barrel but it still has to be made of something.
>the thing that holds the barrel is important and cant be made of plastic garbage.
Have you ever held a 500 dollar Ruger or Savage? Garbage plastic will hold up, provided you spread out the forces over a wide enough area. Instead of a small Rem700-style recoil lug, you'd probably need something beefier so as to not crack the 3D-printed plastic, but it'd be doable. Also, OP mentions 3D-printing, and that probably means FDM, but 3D-printing could be a whole lot more.
>500 dollar Ruger or Savage
those still have metal receivers. its a complete action in a plastic stock
a barrel and a bolt is not a complete action this imbecile will have to design something
>barrel and a bolt is not a complete action this imbecile will have to design something
So something to keep the bolt straight in line with the barrel.
Like a tube shaped shell, similar to the aluminum tube shaped shell on the actual HTI.
Got it.
>a barrel and a bolt is not a complete action
In this case, the barrel extension acts as a de facto receiver, just like in an AR-10/15 or a Blaser. Come to think of it, Blaser would be the closest analogy: the bolt locks up directly into an extension of the barrel, which then provides mounting options for optics, trigger, stock etc. In a conventional bolt action, yes, you have a receiver with locking lugs which is a seperate component from the barrel, in this case, that component is called a barrel extension because unlike the receiver it does not guide the movement of the bolt - but it does contain the pressure.
The thing that holds the barrel/receiver journal in a mosin nagant and most other bolt action rifles is made of wood.
you deserve what happens to you follow up on your idea
If it's above Khyber-pass-grade then the energy should go down the barrel to propel your projectile, and down the stock to keep Newton happy.