I have a coffee maker that uses euro prongs and of course takes 240v. I also have a socket for my oven right next to it, but i cant find any adapters for that massive appliance plug to a standard euro outlet.
>inb4 transformer
Its somehow burnt through 2 in the past 6 months
pic unrel
Isn't euro 220 just a single hot wire?
You're not going to easily turn two legs of 110 into a single leg of 220 without a transformer.
Sounds like OP already has a 220 outlet, it just don't match the plug.
Why bother with an adapter? Just put in a new receptacle of the type you need.
What are phases?
Not how your 240v service is made.
120/240 is one coil with a center tap. The 240v is between the same two phases as your balanced 120v is. The only difference is where euros put their ground rod. The load doesn't care.
You should make sure the appliances' cord has its own fuse because us 240v appliances are huge and not gfi protected generally.
>The 240v is between the same two phases
uhm... no... 240v requires 2 phases. each phase to ground/neutral is 120. both phases is 240.
If this was my house id pay someone to put in an outlet specific to it, but this is specifically to the oven so i dont wanna then have to get a euro oven or something convoluted
Ive heard conflicting info on some american outlets being able to do this, but i have no idea how to tell. Basically i really really do not want to waste more money on a massive chinesium transformer if possible
Get a small length of cord and make one end the american plug and the other end the europoor receptacle.
No. Inputting only 120vac He would only get 25 percent of the wattage he needs to run the coffeemaker.
OP, you run basically a tiny subpanel off the oven outlet. Like those RV pedestals with the 20 amp, 30 amp and (usually) 50 amp outlets. With their own breaker.
The oven outlet continues to work normally. Put your tiny box up above the counter, for access to it's euro outlet, but in that case, get it GFCI/RCD protected.
A lot of oven outlets are surface mount. If they are not, you can get a fitting that will raise the outlet out of the wall on an expansion box that has regular side knockouts for running conduit or MC to a downstream outlet.
If the American stove is 220 then you don't need a transformer. Just tap the two hot 220 wires and add wire to a new outlet with European receptacle.
Anons pointed out you should include a fuse or breaker inline. You could just connect wires from the two hot 220 wires of the stove outlet. Then WIREWRAP the other end of two copper wires around each of the two hot prongs of the coffeemaker. Then wrap it all up with a lot of electrical tape. Keep water away from the wires.
>Isn't euro 220 just a single hot wire?
230 V to neutral, 3 phases, 400 V between phases.
Appliances need to work with 220~240 V and tolerate mains supply of 230 V ±10%.
If OP has 240 V split phase, he should be able to connect his appliance, unless 50 Hz vs 60 Hz will bite him in the ass.
>Isn't euro 220 just a single hot wire?
Correct, one outlet is 230V 16A. Lighting uses thinner wire on a separate 10A circuit, hilariously that's still a lot more power available than from a typical US outlet.
>so i dont wanna then have to get a euro oven or something convoluted
Those are three phase, tough fricking luck ever running that without starting up your own euro-spec power grid for your house.
You can get a 3 phase home service in the US. It's very very expensive but it's not unheard of.
>You can get a 3 phase home service in the US.
Didn't know that.
>It's very very expensive but it's not unheard of.
It's the standard here. Only 60s and older shit is single phase.
We use gigantic single phase for houses in the US. The main breaker for my panel is 200A. The transformer outside my house is only rated at 10 kVA.
No reason exists to do so especially since the connection charge tends expensive and even fairly large machine/welding shops can run off rotary phase converters and VFD. You can DIY an RPC easily and there's ample info online.
here the biggest electrical consumers are the stove and (used to) heating.
with 3 phase at the consumer its trivial to balance the load.
And our grid layout at the village level used to be one big transformator in a tower with the wires daisy chained from house to house
>Those are three phase, tough fricking luck ever running that without starting up your own euro-spec power grid for your house.
Unless you live where they run it to nearby businesses but I'd have to have a monster business to justify it.
The circuit for the massive appliance plug is fused for the 30A or 50A of the oven (guessing rating). If you made a simple adapter if the coffee maker had a fault it could absorb a lot more power than the circuit it was designed to use could deliver and it could catch on fire.
I think for safety you need a transformer or inverter designed to plug into a std 110V plug and provide the correct outlet, or if you do make an adapter for the oven plug, you will need to include a proper inline fuse for it.
This, OP. That's how it's done.
You can order a euro plug and box, and wallmount it, and run your power through a small piece of conduit. Same supplier should be able to get you a pop-out resettable breaker that you can integrate into the box.
Resistive loads won't care about 50/60hz, and most electronics are compatible with either, in the last 15 years.
Could put an inline generator RCD for 16A or so across your extension cord/adapter plug cable. Kind of shitty but not very expensive how many 240V appliances do you have?
nope. breaker fuses are for protecting wiring in the walls.
an appliance should be fused to protect itself.
the only grey area is the applince flex, there are certain cirumstances where you can protect a cable from an upstream fuse. so more research is required. but lets not throw the baby out with the bathwater.
even if that were the case, if the oven socket isn't used for anything else the breaker in the panel cou;d just be swapped for a lower rating.
I'm not actually a sparky, but want to push back. Now disconnects and panels have to be rated for the short circuit current rating they can deliver. I'm pretty sure that is explicitly limiting the power that can be delivered to a downstream device in a fault. It is a very different thing to wire a device to a panel though 4 gauge and 16 gauge in the current capable of being delivered - one has a lot more resistance to limit fault currents than the other, which itself sets demands on the ability of the downstream device.
>breaker fuses are for protecting wiring in the walls.
If he makes an adapter with a little receptical on one end and a 50A plug on the other he is going to have some 16 gauge wire in the adapter. That wiring must be protected. That wire needs the fuse. It also protects the downstream.
>I'm not actually a sparky
you dont say, now keep quit
>I'm pretty sure that is explicitly limiting the power that can be delivered to a downstream device in a fault.
NO, the panel has to fit the wiring impedance because a breaker rated for breaking 5000A will vaporize and arc over if put in a commercial setting where higher short currents can occur.
In case of a device that miraculously developed a dead short, It doesn't matter because it doesn't do the fault disconnection.
A fricking electric shaver has 0.5 square cables while having the standard 16A plug
your shaver is designed according to product standards that are not the NEC.
The NEC states that the ampacity of a branch circuit is determined by the OCPD.
A single receptacle on an individual branch circuit must have an ampacity not less than the rating of the OCPD (210-21). So if the outlet for the new coffee maker is installed into the wall, the circuit breaker must be changed to reflect that of the outlet.
So the dongle design would fall outside of the NEC because it is not installed, but if it were screwed to the wall, basically the circuit breaker would be required to be downsized to the outlet provided.
yes
damn your grammar bro
> not a sparky
Likely an engineer.
Engineers can sign off on deviations from the Code. I sense a disgruntled sparky.
a circuit breaker does never protect a device, only the outlets and fixed wiring.
if your device allows for such a fault and burns your house down, then sorry but it was illegal chinks hit to begin with.
You need a transformer (AC to AC, 1:2) and an adapter. otherwise your device will not run.
Ive never had sex
>Its somehow burnt through 2 in the past 6 months
Are you sure you're getting a transformer that meets the amperage requirements of the coffee maker?