Amateur here. Im going to buy a mitre saw but do I need 12 inch blade machine? I see they sell 8,10 and 12 inch
Is the 8 inch to weak ?
Amateur here. Im going to buy a mitre saw but do I need 12 inch blade machine? I see they sell 8,10 and 12 inch
Amateur here. Im going to buy a mitre saw but do I need 12 inch blade machine? I see they sell 8,10 and 12 inch
Is the 8 inch to weak ?
>Is the 8 inch to weak ?
No, it's not "too weak" but it can only cut up to a certain size piece of wood in a single cut without having to flip the wood around.
For instance, it can't cut a 4x4 in one go. I don't think they will cut a 2x6 either, and especially not at an angle.
Whether or not this will matter to you will depend on your use case and how often you're going to use the saw. The price difference between 8" and 10" models is usually so small that the 10" is a better value, but the 12"s are usually quite a bit larger, heavier, and more expensive. Same with sliders. I honestly don't understand why they make them smaller than a 10"
Spotted the mitre salesman shill
>Amateur here
>do I need 12 inch blade machine?
No.
>Is the 8 inch to weak ?
No.
>I don't think they will cut a 2x6 either
8 inch cross cut
Will not cut 5.5" across
???
I'm a carpenter and I've been using a little 20v cordless 7 1/4" blade slider for years. It does everything I need it to do. Trim, flooring, cut crown molding laying flat with compound cuts, and it's light enough to tote around and throw on the floor and make all the cuts in each room. The table is 3.5" tall so a 2x4 on edge (or 4x4) works to hold up the end of your board without messing with roller stands or that stupid screw clamp.
It will cut 2x material fine too but I rarely use it for that. Once you do framing longer than 3 months you'll more often grab your speed square and circular saw and take those to the lumber pile rather than haul a freaking 2x12 up to the miter saw to make an angled cut. Framing doesn't have to be accurate to the 1/32", more like 1/16" or 1/8" tolerance, which you can do with a circular saw if you're not a mongoloid.
The only things I don't like about this saw are:
>Single bevel. Rarely does this prevent a cut from being made but it does sometimes make a cut inconvenient.
>When you retract the foreskin to change the blade there's still a stupid little dickfore piece of metal that sticks in the way requiring loosening multiple screws.
I clipped that fricker right off with an angle grinder and now I can change the blade removing only one screw.
If you want something to use here and there around the house I'd suggest any small miter saw that is double bevel. Make sure to play with the angle adjustment and stops, they feel good on this cordless one but some cheapie saws have clunky controls and are inconvenient to use.
If you want to park a miter saw as a shop tool then get the biggest one in your budget I guess but otherwise I'd err on the side of portability.
>imagine using s 8inch pathetic saw and calling yourself pro? L fricking mao
8inch saws no matter what is single moms tier pink tools they got on a borthday gift
>tryhard dogma
No, I called myself a carpenter. Your sister is the professional.
Dilate troony
>8 inch cross cut
>Will not cut 5.5" across
>???
While the blade is 8" in diameter, that doesn't mean it can cut an 8" wide board in one go. Because of how the fence is arranged on the saw, you get only a little over half of the diameter of the sawblade worth of cut....
I just measured on my 10" Hitachi, and it can cut just shy of a 6" wide board in one cut. (and that's at a 90 degree cut. any other angle would be worse)
Idiot
>all saws are sliders
You're a fricking moron
The frick is your issue.
The blade is 7.25", and the cross cut capacity is 8". That's what the slide rails are for.
>anon now regrets not understanding how sliding saws worked when he bought his Hitachi tickler
jesus frick bepis, not everyone needs a 12" slider to satisfy their tool collection fetish
This just in: a $100 ten inch saw doesn't cut the same as a $400 12 inch slider
Bepis is banking on everyone forgetting the thread where HE was shit on relentlessly for not knowing the actual limits of his sliding 10". He isnt very good with math and greatly overestimated its versatility against even a non sliding 12".
kek, he was shilling 7-1/4" sliding saws.
At least hes changed his tune once everyone schooled him.
Hey man, other anon is still loving his 7-1/4” slider. They’re quite capable if you’re not cutting posts for your dock, which I know is hated on this board because of all the dockbuilders.
The best part of this post is you trying to pretend that working with 4x4s is abnormal.
A so called homeowner who bought a saw which cant build stairs or porches or decks or sheds or even a gazebo?
lel, the dockbuilder, as pitiful as he was, is twice the craftsman youll ever be mr pepsi truck driver
A $150 10” slider does a frickton more than a $100 10” non-slider.
Sounds from that post like anon/you generally didn’t know it was possible to cut more than the radius of the blade with any type of miter saw and likely would’ve gone with a slider had he known the capabilities
>I honestly don't understand why they make them smaller than a 10"
I always figured it was so you could run the same blades as on a circular saw (7"/7.25")
Depends on what you're doing and how much space you have to work in. Framers need 12 almost always. Small job finish carpentry might only need 8. General guy might want 12 but only be able to fit a 10 in his truck. None of this accounts for features within the various brands which are also a factor. And as always, pricing.
>imagine being a mitre saw nerd
Cringe
Imagine that your only skill is belittling people who have the expertise to answer questions in depth, for knowing too much and not keeping it hidden for fear of your name calling.
Why dont you shut the frick up before I smash your teeth in kid?
No commas in your sentence, or your earnings.
troony leftwing degenerate kys
>lives on the dole
>thinks he's right wing
Oof
This dude clearly has a smol peepee
Do NOT listen to anything he says
Tool knowledge matters if you're serious. If you're not serious then buy random shit, twice if you fricked up. This is basic info not exotic nerd info and you are fricking stupid so why are you shitting this thread with your nignorance?
Are you proud of being a dumbfrick unable to understand why those considerable capacity differences matter? Post projects with hand and timestamp.
Im a computer engineer
Way smarter than some tradie tradeschool low iq
Evidently not smart enough to understand the value of specific knowledge despite your credential. You type like an illiterate thirdie, odd for an "engineer" in the first world.
Were you an real engineer you'd instantly understand the reasons for specific tool choice. If you're a stupid child that's far more forgivable than being an incompetent engineer.
Shut the frick up tradie scum
I make more money than you. I make software.. something your brain cant comprehend
Are there any saws of that style that one could move along a track to cut long steel plates?
Makita probably makes one
Cold saws of course but they're superior for thin stock which is sheet not plate. If cutting long plate the smart way is order it precut from your supplier like most professional fab shops do unless they have suitably large equipment. Profit is about efficiency. You can also order plate ground to your desired surface finish if making a machine bed.
is not a freehand cold saw. It's a chop style for cutting little shit as being demonstrated.
When asking its wise to specify WHAT length and thickness you want to cut but noobs don't know anything like measurements matter and assume everyone else assumes at their level of ignorance. Learn in metalworking to be SPECIFIC and you will thank me later for saving you time and hassle.
You can make your own long cuts in plate with a track torch (can be self-built, see videos) using a plasma torch or oxy-fuel torch. Those can be portable if you buy or make track sections. If you're not a pro you're better off making a simple one for your one or two jobs as the factory units are expensive.
Track torches can also hold wire welding heads for track welding.
Cutting short plate for practice coupons. I prefer a preheat pass for a nice clean cut:
Just use a track saw or circular saw with a blade meant for cutting steel. A bandsaw would be better, though.
Plate is not sheet and thickness matters. Of course OP didn't specify. For sheets having the supplier use a shear is a major labor saver. Most don't have monster shears for plate but as mentioned that's best ordered to size.
Copy the pros for they are efficient.
Right, but we're dealing with a lot of assumptions, like that OP doesn't want to go get an oxy-acetalyne torch or for some reason really needs to cut steel that specific way.
In theory, though, if the strip he needs is under 5" dude could use a porta-band to cut it.
But if he needs more than one or two, it gets back into "just order the exact size you need."
As was said, depends on what you're going to be doing. I've got a 12" Ridgid that stays in my garage. Then I have a cheap Ryobi 7.25" miter that's small and portable for cutting trim.
I'm also an amateur homeowner DIYer.
I was in a similar dilemma and ultimately went with the 12" Bosch in your pic.
Reasons:
I've got space to put it, so the size advantage of a 10" doesn't matter much.
I'm not going to use it enough to have to buy a lot of blades, so the increased cost of a 12" blade doesn't matter much.
I don't know what I'll need it for in the future, so I won't ever regret having to cut something too big for the 10"
I also got the Bosch gravity stand with it, so it's easy to move around my garage and driveway, and easy to put away.
I got a 10” compound dewalt 20 years ago. I use it for everything possible, however I wished I got the 12” and i also wished I got the “sliding” rail mechanism. If I had, I wouldn’t have to trot out the table saw so often, or the skilsaw and make multiple cuts that never align properly.
Make sure it has the clamp hold downs, mine were optional and I regretted not getting them.
As long as you follow the directions and don’t do anything dicey, it’s pretty safe i think—safter than the table saw.
If you have a low capacity you’ll be tempted to make long-wise rip cuts with it and while free handing one the or day it almost dragged my hand into the blade when it caught, so don’t do that and get the bigger capacity with holddowns.
>skilsaw and make multiple cuts that never align properly
>Make sure it has the clamp hold downs, mine were optional and I regretted not getting them.
>tempted to make long-wise rip cuts with it and while free handing one the or day it almost dragged my hand into the blade when it caught
https://www.amazon.com/FastCap-10-Million-Dollar-Stick/dp/B0728GYJ5G
This is what you want if you're doing any cuts that might put your hand too close to the blade.
>buying a $25 plastic stick off Amazon instead of making one out of scrap wood on site
The poster you're addressing did not indicate he's holding his fingers too close to the blade, he indicated that he is freehand holding crap off the fence to make rip cuts, which is plain wrong.
>long-wise rip cuts with it and while free handing one the or day it almost dragged my hand into the blade when it caught, so don’t do that and get the bigger capacity with holddowns
What you're describing is not safe to do on a miter saw and has nothing to do with hold downs. You can make freehand rips on a table saw because the blade is spinning towards you and if it binds it kicks the board towards you. A miter saw blade spins away from you and if you try to freehand and it binds it pulls the board into the blade. Good way to lose fingers.
The board always has to be supported against the fence when you're using a miter saw. I make rips on a miter saw sometimes but the back of the piece still has to be against the fence, and often the end of the board doesn't have support when trying to rip since the fence is open near the blade, but the solution is very simple - put a scrap piece of 1x spanning the gap in the fence, then put the end of your board against the 1x while you rip cut. Just be careful not to cut all the way through your 1x or the same binding issue will occur.
Idiot
Give your balls a tug OP
Kys
Every single goddamn one of these I've bought, I've carved the grove out on the first cut
Frick these cheap pieces of shit
A steel one tho? Maybe ......
You need to place a sacrificial board at the bottom. A piece of Masonite will do.
Idiot
I've never used one of these but maybe marking a line on the blade with painter's tape or a marker could help, similar to how you would do with a drill bit, when you don't want to drill too far in.
The 8” is probably as powerful as the 10” or 12”.
I got a 10” sliding guy recently, no issues yet. I probably would’ve done 12” if I had a ton of room to work with, but the 10” sliding guy has done everything I need it too. I’m def glad I went with a sliding model though for those odd angles that end up being long cuts in 2x6’s and 2x8s
The 8-1/4” saws are going to have a much smaller selection of blades at local stores, I wouldn’t go that route. 12” blades cost a little bit more than 10” but what’s $5 difference once or twice a year for a DIYer?
12” models often go on sale for the same price or less than the 10” versions, especially when you look at DeWalt’s super popular 12” sliding saw that is $600-$650 and goes on sale for $400-$500 multiple times a year.
I would say if you have the space and budget, go with the damn 12” sliding miter saw. The only real drawbacks are size/portability and the potential for a little more runout on larger blades. I doubt the runout is going to be a factor for a DIYer. And if you needed a portable guy and weren’t doing 4x4’s and larger a lot, you could look at a babby 7-1/4” slider.
>12” blades cost a little bit more than 10” but what’s $5 difference once or twice a year for a DIYer?
You only really need one good fine-tooth crosscut blade for your miter unless you use it to cut metal or laminates regularly, and you can get it resharpened, so stick a good Diablo on it with 80 teeth and you'll be set for a decade for most DIY stuff.
10" sliding compound is the sweet spot. Not too big, not too small. Stay away from units with arms (Bosch). The arms sag while leaned over.
If you are not a pro a 10" Skill with a good blade is just fine. A shitty saw with a good blade is often better than a good saw with a shit blade.
t. Finishing Carpenter
>The arms sag
What do you mean? I was wondering what the downside was or if it was some Bosch patent that all the other brands would jump on in the future.
Also pic related is a nice all around saw for the money right now.
Shut the frick up
Hey bby ;^)
It’s finally the weekend, whatchu up to? Netflix n chill?
No playing video games
Not wasting my time on low IQ tradie woodworking like a homosexual
>playing video games
>not wasting my time
Remember that Sunday is mom’s laundry day and there’s lots of crusty socks under your desk.
>Playing videogames
>Thinking you're worth more than pond scum
Pick one and only one big guy
>Stay away from units with arms (Bosch). The arms sag while leaned over.
are sliding rails really that superior?
i bet my ass these penny pincher used the softest chrome plated rods they could get their hands on, and linear shaft bearings cannot function without axial slop
A buddy who is also finishing carpenter has the articulating Bosch 12" found that there is slight slop in the joints of the arms. So if you set the bevel to 45° the saw is sagging and cutting a little more. The main issue being that the more the arm is extended the more it changes so the extra bevel isn't consistent. I much prefer the sliders because of this.
There's no extending miter saw design that doesn't have a bit of slop, but with slider rods it's pretty easy to get clean, straight cuts, while the arms have a ton of slop that's harder to control.
>arms sag while leaned over
Anon, you shouldn't be leanin' on yer saw. It's not a load-bearing structure. I have that saw. Been using it extensively for about 5 years and it cuts where I tell it to cut. The only other saw I'd dream of using is the Kapex for the higher build quality and dust collection, but there are MANY other tools that I would buy before I put a Kapex alongside my Bosch. The rest of the rails-based sliders all feel terrible to me. It's like the difference between barbell squats and a smith machine. Smith machine gonna ruin your posture. My Bosch feels so good. Like I got a third arm.
Sounds like somebody got shorted on their helper job and can't afford their weekend fix. Makes you awful crabby.
As a professional I wouldn’t be without a 12” slider but around the house my 10” fixed has been fine for years.
>As a professional I wouldn’t be without a 12” slider
Are you 2637036's sister?
8" or 7-1/4" saws are hardly cheaper than a 10" and just kind of suck. It would be a different story if they were substantially cheaper, but you can get a Metabo 10" for basically the same price as a Harbor Freight 7-1/4"
What? No, I simply asked if you were a prostitute. But I do jest. I see the appeal in bigger saws. But if both are on a job site I often grab my circular saw anyway. Unless you're doing anything like exposed framing or bigger fascia boards in which case you do want the 12".
I liked the harbor freight one I used with the sliding head.
The smaller sizes are for space and ease of transport. Getting a non-sliding saw is a mistake. I run a 12" sliding but the majority of my work could be 10 or 7".
Shut up
Get a 16" radial arm saw then you stupid homosexual.
have a nice day troony
You will never be a woman
Why don't you take your multitool and show me how it's done?
So
Here's my opinion.
I got the 12 inch Bosch miter saw.
I love it, and since it's a sliding miter saw you can actually cut more than 12 inches across. However, I very rarely have needed that.
In retrospect, 10 inch would have been enough plus... Table saws accept 10 inch blades only. So you could have a set of one fine one rough a metal blade etc etc to share between both tools versus having to have a 10 and a 12 inch version. That gets annoying
You should buy that specific saw in your pic, OP. I have it and I love it. It's the best and it's a beast. It will handle basically anything you could throw at a compound miter saw and then some. It's got something like a 16" cut on the pull and it has plenty of vertical space as well. It has a saw stop that's pretty handy and the articulating arm feels really good to use compared to the rails of other similar saws. Plus, you can butt it up against a wall because of the arm.
12 inch can handle a 6 inch piece of baseboard.
10 can't it leaves a small bit.
>12 inch can handle a 6 inch
>0 inch arbor
how does that work anon?
troony
Generally, unless you're sure you'll never, ever cut bigger than the capacity of a smaller saw? This is one of those tools where "buy once, cry once" is going to apply hardest. Get a 12" slider like the DeWalt DWS780 and you'll be set for a ton of different uses for decades. Especially if you're doing it in a home workshop or your garage, the rolling stand DeWalt makes for miter saws is also a great buy if you can't put it in a fixed station.
Black person cum