A few years ago I stripped and painted iron handrails with primer then white paint but after a while the paint started chipping in micro lines like this, what went wrong? Not enough layers of paint?
A few years ago I stripped and painted iron handrails with primer then white paint but after a while the paint started chipping in micro lines like this, what went wrong? Not enough layers of paint?
Probably too much layers of primer.
Looks like latex house paint.
You need high solids, oil-based zinc-based primer. Put it on in in thin coats. It should self-level to a glass like finish. Then coat with a tough paint, like a car enamel would work well.
This is what I used on the railings, no good?
Weather
First thing, stop stripping and get a real job that's not degrading
Second, take it down to metal and use DTM paint
I would love to be able to just sandblast these but there’s no easy way without damaging everything around it. I also considered cutting them out of the stairs so I could paint them properly in a shop
I’d just throw sone “rust converter” on it and paint over it.
It will turn those areas into black iron phosphate which is harder than iron oxide (rust) and provide a “tooth” for the next coat.
The wrought iron fences in england have been painted over continuously for a 100 years, more thicker is more better.
Also, for the outer coat, don’t use flat paint, the water adheres and sits in it. use the glossiest shit you can get ahold of.
Seems like apita for such cheap rails.
Just buy new, prepainted ones for the same cost as a couple gallons of good paint/primer.
steel shop near me has wrought iron rail sections like that... he could replace both sides for like 300 bucks just metal alone.
you used shitty paint
next time use white lead in linseed oil and it'll last long enough to be your grandchildren's problem
red lead or cinnabar is the patricians choice
spend the money and do it correctly and it will last, a good rule of thumbå is to never buy paint/primer etc from home depot or lowes. go to a real paint store
>spend 5x as much for the same paint, goyim
>30$ per gallon Valspar at Lowe's performs the same as SW Alkyd Enamel
lmao
I would just as soon buy oil based alkyd enamel at lowe's, but they don't stock it around here as far as I can tell. Also, every 2-3 months, sherwin williams runs a 40% off all paint promotion that brings really good paint down to the price of HD/Lowe's midgrade. It's a better bang for your buck, moron.
shut up israelite
FYI you can tell somebody is giving good home improvement advice when the antisemitism kicks in.
solvent borne alkyd is almost impossible to frick up, so i buy the cheapest at aldi or lidl.
it even says made in germoney chances are high its made by some reputable paint manufacture.
last year i had some where the company in the sds had the same address as brilux kek.
cheap water borne acrylic is a great way to ruin your project thought it never becomes scratch resistant and stays soft forever and shit like this.
paint is toxic, enjoy your MUPS
no shot of Black?
flat white on a white primer? should have used a high gloss paint. flat white on white primer, how are you able to tell that you have good coverage? need some contrast between the primer and paint
Use gray primer
Why do you think normal paint would stand up to exposure to the elements for more than a few years?
You need a surface coating that expands and contracts at about the same rate and amount as the underlying material.
Steel rusts and paint alone is only adequate protection in very few circumstances. If you're serious strip it entirely, remove every trace of rust, prime it with a zinc rich primer and paint with 2 pack paint.
>you MUST use my ~~*cheap*~~ primer, goy!
you dont need primers if your base is rust-free and use synthetic paints (soluble in toluene-like solvents) and put a reasonable layer. I have painted everything outside like this and I never experienced stripping or other damage, except for few place I was too lazy to remove old paint