1911 kits

I'm looking to build my own .45 1911. The kits I've found online are either $1000+ or they've fricked with the cosmetics to make the gun appear "futuristic". Any recommendations for an authentic 1911 kit that won't break the bank?

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  1. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    Buy a complete cheap gun then detail strip it. A 1911 is not something you homebuild to save money.
    Even if you got the slide for free a frame you homebuilt will cost more than a beater tisas or ria.

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      Step 1. Buy 1911 frame from Caspian or JEMguns
      Step 2. Buy Tisa .45 1911 and fit the Tisa slide onto the frame you bought and transfer parts over replacing the trigger shoe and grip safety with brand new ones, make sure to buy the grip safety from the same people that made your frame.

      Also just buy the Caspian frame with integral plunger tube, it’ll save a lot of headaches

      thanks

  2. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    Step 1. Buy 1911 frame from Caspian or JEMguns
    Step 2. Buy Tisa .45 1911 and fit the Tisa slide onto the frame you bought and transfer parts over replacing the trigger shoe and grip safety with brand new ones, make sure to buy the grip safety from the same people that made your frame.

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      Also just buy the Caspian frame with integral plunger tube, it’ll save a lot of headaches

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      Buy a complete cheap gun then detail strip it. A 1911 is not something you homebuild to save money.
      Even if you got the slide for free a frame you homebuilt will cost more than a beater tisas or ria.

      Recommend slides? I want to build Ivan's 3011. (1911 slide mounted onto a 3d printed AR lower trigger group)

      • 1 month ago
        Anonymous

        Search on eBay for completed slides w/ barrel. 1911 barrels are not drop in so it’s a good idea to just buy a barrel and slide already together.

        Also search for parts kits on gunbroker

        • 1 month ago
          Anonymous

          Fitting a 1911 barrel to a slide is easy as frick my guy

  3. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    If you want to build a 1911, you're going to spend a lot of money. Why wouldn't you, after all? if you're making a custom gun, make it nice.
    Not only that, you're going to spend a lot of time on it. All the parts have to be polished and handfitted so you'll have to get your polishing stone and Dremel tool ready.
    You'd be better off with a RIA or Tisas for a basic old 1911A1

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      You dont want to do this. There is no such thing as a "drop in" part for a 1911, literally everything needs to be hand fitted, and you need to buy 46 different sear springs until you find one that fits so the gun can function.

      Is correct, but I wouldn't use a dremel. You take off too much metal and you're right back where you started.

  4. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    Here OP
    https://www.sarcoinc.com/1911-45-cal-builders-kit-all-parts-less-frame-includes-new-slide/
    https://www.sarcoinc.com/rock-island-auto-1911-frame-parkerized/

    Don't listen to 1911 gays, you can have fun building a milspec 1911 without spending loads of money. The 1911 was designed as a service pistol, not a race gun.
    If you want to see mine or have any questions feel free to ask.

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      I did that about 8 years ago with a blem PSA frame. The frame was 100 bucks, I think those kits were 200 at the time and they sent me a novak cut slide for some reason. It was a fun project.

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      Thats still more expensive than a tisas/ria. He would get the same "build" experience detail stripping and reassembling that factory gun. With the knowledge it will actually work when assembled.

      • 1 month ago
        Anonymous

        I bet you are fat.

      • 1 month ago
        Anonymous

        >He would get the same "build" experience detail stripping and reassembling that factory gun.
        Not true. Are you familiar with those Sarco kits? They do require fitting.
        As for reliability, mine worked 100% the first range trip.

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      What's your preference when it comes to Govt/GI/Comm. Since .45 is slow, I'm curious how much good a longer barrel would do.
      Feel free to show yours

      • 1 month ago
        Anonymous

        IIRC commander length was developed for concealed carrying, if you're not going to do that then govt length is better because of increased weight and sight radius. There's no significant difference in lethality or velocity.

        >inb4 serial #
        My grip number is on this side, idgaf.

        • 1 month ago
          Anonymous

          >IIRC commander length was developed for concealed carrying
          You do not remember correctly. The Commander was developed shortly after WWII when the military wanted to replace the 1911 with something smaller, lighter, and in 9mm. The (Lightweight) Commander competed against the S&W Model 39 and won, but the project was scrapped due to the Korean War. Both companies would release their guns on the civilian market in the following years, but neither was marketed for concealed carry, just being less of a boat anchor than a full-steel 1911 or revolver.

          tl;dr
          It was always meant to be a belt-worn, duty handgun, it just happens to lend itself to better concealment

  5. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    1911s are gay

  6. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    Get a used kit from everygunpart or gunbroker, market prive on gunbroker, wait for 25% to 40% off on egp.

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      how do you set the things the slide ride on into the 3d printed lower?

      • 1 month ago
        Anonymous

        >how do you set the things the slide ride on into the 3d printed lower?
        just watch any video showing a detailed disassembly and reassembly of a glock. The metal blocks just slide in and then pins are used to lock them in place. The slide rides on those. You can buy an 80% "glock" type loser, drill a few holes and assemble the parts and presto. This may be easier for you for your first gun build. Its just not that hard. Many, many vids on YT how to do it. If you have a 3d printer and the files to print the lower you can just print it, and the metal blocks just slip in (if you are printing a glock lower for glock or glock like parts). It is just not that complicated for simple builds. What gets complicated is when you are using an endmill to machine rails into a metal 1911 lower. You need to know how to set the part, make the adjustments for the cut, and know the height of the cut for the rails. Not hard if you know how to use a endmill.

        If you want to cut 1911 rails yourself with no endmill you will need something like
        https://www.matrixprecisionparts.com/product/matrix-precision-rail-cutter-for-1911-2011-sig-sauer/
        Once you have the cutter and parts you can cut many lowers with different specs as you get better and better at making your own. If you are looking for an easy one and done just go the 80% glock kit route. no rail cutting becasue the slide rides on the metal blocks you insert into the plastic frame. Check to make sure your state allows you to make your own. If you make one and then sell it the ATF will likely be all over your ass for not having an FFL to make and sell guns, even just one.

        • 1 month ago
          Anonymous

          I want to make a zytel lower 92fs because I think it'd be badass

          • 1 month ago
            Anonymous

            92s do not lend themselves to non metal frames.

            • 1 month ago
              Anonymous

              Pressure too high given the breach style or what? I would think the majority of the force of firing would be contained within the barrel and slide. Isnt that why the retention tongues can afford to be so thin?
              Also doesnt the short lived 90two have a poly lower? Where the frick is burt?

              • 1 month ago
                Anonymous

                I never got too deeply into it, that was just consensus in the diy communities I frequented, that they weren't really worth building because of some sort of inherent structural weekness.

              • 1 month ago
                Anonymous

                Its the the locking block needing something solid. Other pistol slide barrel designs are mostly self contained where the frame just holds things like the mag and hammer in the right spot and rails to guide slide motion.
                The barrel on a 1911 is locked to the slide.
                For a 92 its locked to the locking block and the locking block is to the frame.which makes the frame more critical.

        • 1 month ago
          Anonymous

          bridgport machines to be banned

          • 1 month ago
            Anonymous

            >bridgport machines to be banned
            just buy the hand crank rail cutter from Matrix, its faster and easier than setting the lower in mill. according to my friend who asked

      • 1 month ago
        Anonymous

        Those rails are made to fit a p80 style lower, you could print one to p80 spec but they are intended for a polymer80 lower.

  7. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    There are some things to consider if you want to build your own from a kit, and that is who assembles the parts for the kit, and will all the parts work together well. Also the barrel ramp cut (wilson-nowlan or clark para, or lissner), steel or aluminum frame. None of the options are that complicated, you just want to be sure you are ordering what you want. Look to well know 1911 styles and see how they are made and you can use that as a starting point. If you buy an 80% lower to cut your own rails you need a way to cut the rails and some understanding about slide height. If you want the hand crank rail cutter you need to buy it, otherwise you should have an end mill. Building your own will really help you understand how the thing works, how to fit the parts, trouble shooting if you have issues.

    Fusion Firearms sells kits with the lower already cut and some parts installed, or 80% lowers and you specify the barrel ramps. If you get into it you can start making your own 7" Hardballer style long slides or whatever custom versions you want.
    https://fusionfirearms.com/kits?p=2

    If you buy the tools to cut the rails on an 80%, then you know have the tools and can cut rails on many lowers. If you don not like how it turned out, just buy another lower and cut the rails again and transfer the parts over to the new lower, or replace a few parts.

  8. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    Building a 1911 is definitely not a beginner project. I've done a few. The Sarco kits are the cheapest option by far. I've had good luck with them and they required minimal fitting but at the end of the day you have a 1911 that's about the same as a ria. Don't think that buying a more expensive kit will instantly yeild a better result. You need to build up some understanding and experience with how the parts interact and the proper geometries needed for function. The more expensive kits will require more intense fitting as that's how you get the super tight and slick finished product. Cutting frame rails is typically the toughest part for a home gamer, I recommend getting a finished frame that requires minimal fitting. I used the aluminum 80% kits before and while they are neat, idk how long aluminum will hold up long term. I don't think they make them anymore either. Fyi they used a jig and a cutter similar to a wood plane to cut the rails, something you could only do with aluminum. Otherwise a 80% requires a proper milling machine and slot cutter, I just got mine set up, maybe I'll make a thread when I decide to do a stainless 80

  9. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    Don't. Whatever answers you've gotten out of this thread, forget them. Unless you're a gunsmith with tooling to match and experienced in hand-fitting handgun parts, do not attempt it. You WILL waste hundreds of dollars on parts that ultimately do not work, or worse, work half the time without giving any clear indication why the fricking thing just won't run. You WILL ruin expensive parts trying to fit and polish them. You WILL go to the range to show off your new 1911 to your friends only to fail to get through a single magazine without jams.

    Just buy the damn thing and enjoy shooting, or go apprentice with a licensed smith. Do not attempt building one as a normie.

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      Not everyone is a total dumbass. Just because you pay somebody to change your oil or to pleasure your wife doesn't mean everyone needs to. Honestly if you can't man up and drop 500 bucks on a learning experience you should probably get you priorities straight.
      Op never gave an indication of his skill level. Nevertheless 110 years ago this thing was designed and built, the ease of gaining knowledge and tools since then is insane.
      >licensed smith
      Total homosexual confirmed.

      • 1 month ago
        Anonymous

        I agree that licensure should pale in comparison to real experience. There are some very talented anons on here like the lego lower ryan gosling sigma. Theres also some hilariously incompetent morons on here. Let the latter learn from experience and know that tommorrow there will be another thread with a different OP asking the same thing. Makes for good /k/ humor threads when they post pics.

      • 1 month ago
        Anonymous

        >Not everyone is a total dumbass
        Lower your expectations.
        >Op never gave an indication of his skill level
        LOWER your expectations.

        My friend works a gunsmith and makes almost at third of his profit from unfricking people's projects. We're not even talking about non-normie-obvious stuff like putting in pins with a carpenter's hammer, or polishing contact surfaces freehand with a dremel. We're talking about shit like guys putting together bubba's first AR and DRILLING the bolt carrier wider because the bolt didn't just slide right in with the new, tight gas rings. Shit like folks hammering their gas tubes straight cause they thought they looked wrong, and then wondering why the bolt won't close all the way. Shit like kids making their own optics cut with a circular saw and a cordless drill, and then coming to the shop when the slide cracks.

        Everyone is a total dumbass until proven otherwise.

        I agree that licensure should pale in comparison to real experience. There are some very talented anons on here like the lego lower ryan gosling sigma. Theres also some hilariously incompetent morons on here. Let the latter learn from experience and know that tommorrow there will be another thread with a different OP asking the same thing. Makes for good /k/ humor threads when they post pics.

        Fair point about licensure, but the best way to gain experience isn't to go out and make every mistake yourself. You'll gain a lot more a lot faster with someone experienced holding your hand through that first build and they'll probably also teach you about the usual issues and mistakes to look out for.

  10. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    Is tisas the way to go for a budget 1911? I want one with some stag grips to fudd larp. I will not get a ria because one exploded on me. Speer lawman ammo and no squib. Second shot out of a brand new gun and the front end exploded, split the slide, and shot springs and shit everywhere. Fortunately it didnt take my hand off.

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      I always felt that wiener island > turkshit
      I really have no scientific evidence to back that up but my rock island stuff has been fine. But your best bet might be to just save up a bit and get a Remington.

      • 1 month ago
        Anonymous

        I would prefer to stay sub 500. If i could find a used 1911 thats got cosmetic flaws thats fine too. Its just going to be a range toy anyway.

  11. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    Semi on topic but for 1911 and equivalent guns just how expensive is a custom lower and slide exactly?

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      bout tree fiddy

  12. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    Sarco sells cheap kits if you just want to put together a beater for the range.

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