If no one else bids, they get the same price, right now $400, whether their bid is 500 or 5000.
The reason I figure is they wanted to determine closely what I bid, and go only a little above it. So if I take the bait I'm back winning but paying more, while risking the lowest amount of fees if they have to 'sell' to themselves.
I bid 10/24, and this guy comes along and bids back to back to back until he's winning with the top listed.
I didn't crop the amounts, they just aren't shown.
Gunbroker.
I bid $395, opening price is $50.
Therefore I'm winning at $50.
He comes along and bids something like $70.
I'm still winning but the price is $71
Then he bids $90
I'm winning but the price is $91
Repeat until he's winning at $396 (and my guess is his bid is say $420 or something)
i could be wrong, but someone else could have been bidding and his auto-bid kept going. i believe gunbroker does not display the other person's bids, so it sorta just looks like he kept bidding on his own.
Maybe, but the times are unevenly spaced. From the top, 9 seconds, 12 seconds, 11 seconds,
10, 10 11, 14, 13.
About the time it takes for a human to write in a new bid on the 'you're not winning page'
I don't know ebays terms.
On gunbroker I put in the one bid on 10/24 which you can see.
He made 7 losing bids and one 8th bid to surpass me.
He's trying to beat your auto bid by the smallest amount possible, easily understandable.
But that doesn't matter. If I bid 395 and he bids 420 or 490, he still pays $396. Unless someone else bids, who then surpass him relatively easily, because his bid is so close.
1 year ago
Anonymous
Some people don't have a particular value in mind, they're just looking for a steal, since a steal is a safe buy. (you can play with it and always have the option to sell it for what you paid for it if you don't like it)
So they're not looking to put in a "market value" bid.
There's no exact point where "steal" turns into "meh" turns into "I really paid market for this, didn't I?"
A person steal-hunting won't want their limited funds tied up in an autobid. If they bid $500, and $500 is a "meh" deal, they may lose out on two $250 steals while their $500 is tied up in a potential win that only frees back up once someone outbids them.
i could be wrong, but someone else could have been bidding and his auto-bid kept going. i believe gunbroker does not display the other person's bids, so it sorta just looks like he kept bidding on his own.
To find your bid amount. I do this from time to time if I don't want to pay a lot. Sometimes I can psych myself into paying another $20 or 40 where I wouldn't have done so with 1 big bid.
That doesn't make any sense though, a single high bid would determine his bid amount just as easily. If you're willing to bid 400 or whatever then put in 400 the first time, there's no point in ratcheting up the bid bit by bit. The end result is the same.
>That doesn't make any sense though, a single high bid would determine his bid amount just as easily.
Yeah, and it would lock me into paying however much over your bid it was. Doing it incrementally by minimum-bid incriments gets me JUST into the lead with no more liability beyond.
>Yeah, and it would lock me into paying however much over your bid it was
No, it wouldn't.
Let's say an item is up and my hidden max bid is $400.
You could start bidding $10, $20, 30 and repeat that over and over again until you finally beat me at $410, or you ran out of budget.
Or you could just bid $400+ from the get-go and you'd find out my max bid the same way.
Suppose my max is $400 and you bid something silly high, like $5000. You're not paying that $5000 unless some other bidder comes along and bids it that high. If you and I are the only bidders it doesn't matter if you bid $410 or $4 million, you're still going to win at $410.
>Doing it incrementally by minimum-bid incriments gets me JUST into the lead with no more liability beyond.
What's the purpose of that? If you were willing to pay X amount then why not just start with that from the get-go? If you weren't willing to pay X amount then why bid it at all? This sounds like some autistic mindgame in your head that doesn't actually have any actual purpose.
Your bid is $400, I don't know that.
I bid $450, it stops at $405 because that was your high bid. Cool, I'm winning.
Someone else comes along and bids $440.
My auto-bid continues to bid for me, I'm at $445 now. You didn't place another bid, your interest was gone. But this guy now just forced me to pay an extra $40.
As opposed to:
Your bid is $400, I don't know that.
I start nibbling in $5 increments. Lose. Lose. Lose. Lose. You are winning at $401! I stop. If your interest is gone, the gun is mine at $401.
If someone else comes along who bids $440, I am NOT stuck paying more than your high bid.
It's a way to eke out the lowest possible bid you're comfortable with without committing to more liability if new interest comes to the item later. idk how to break it down more simply sorry.
>But this guy now just forced me to pay an extra $40.
If you weren't willing to pay that extra $40 then why would you bid that high? Is this some kind of game where you're trying to beat me personally, but you don't care if someone else wins?
1 year ago
Anonymous
OP here, so I should just try bidding $10 more and hope he doesn't come back.
wtf guys, seriously
1 year ago
Burt
I don't know what to tell you anon.
OP here, so I should just try bidding $10 more and hope he doesn't come back.
If it's worth $10 more to you, idk
1 year ago
Anonymous
are you trolling right now?
1 year ago
Anonymous
No, but I am autistic.
1 year ago
Anonymous
Maybe, just maybe, the other bidder, who is perhaps acquainted with the seller, is probing (you)r limit
1 year ago
Anonymous
>Maybe, just maybe, the other bidder, who is perhaps acquainted with the seller, is probing (you)r limit
We've covered that already. If the goal is to probe my limit a single higher bid achieves the same goal with much less work.
Nevermind the fact that probing my limit is pointless anyway.
Let's say a gun comes up. You want to bid on it. The most you're willing to pay is $550. Why does my bid matter at all? If I'm willing to offer more than $550 I win. If I'm willing to offer less than you are, you win. Whether or not you know what my offer is doesn't change that fundamental fact.
1 year ago
Anonymous
Its a simple optimization approach if they don't necessarily want this exact gun, and want to minimize the cost. If they did as you propose, they'll probably get that exact gun - but chances are there are identical models they could have got at lower prices the following week.
1 year ago
Anonymous
Of course if he bets 1.000 instantly it might be less work to out-bid you but, under the assumption he wants to squeeze the optimal amount out of another potential bidder,
1) he doesn’t know your limit beforehand and starts probing, as well as
2) he doesn’t want to scare you away should your limit been reached and even some of your hypothetical bid re-raises are lower than, let’s say an hefty amount of 1.000 for this one.
Those increments might be an indication that the other person is either not 100% committed to buy, or is just probing for bumping the price up for the sellers‘ party. Also, the bidding history gives an info about exactly how many other interested parties have put in a bid limit at that point, which would lead, in this example, to a high probability that you might be the most motivated prospect.
A lot of people just honestly don't understand how gunbroker's auto-bid system works and they prefer to bid manually. The other one that really confuses people is gunbroker's 15 minute rule. People still try to "snipe" like ebay by bidding at the last second but the 15 min rule makes that pointless.
Personally, because someone started a homosexual bidding war or just has no idea what something is worth and I'm trying to match 100% of their autobid and then outbid them by as little as possible, therefore parting them from as much of their money as possible. Those bid amounts would basically be like Price is Right bids, and I'm counting on their monkey brain going "oh, my max bid was $3,000, I only need to go to $3050 to win" rather than remembering that the high bid was at like $2100 five minutes ago.
Haven't gotten burned yet!
did you 'borrow' someone's driver's license to make a second gb account?
do you make half your real purchases on the second account to get feedback so it doesn't look like a shill.
i do that. i dont know the max price i'm willing to pay and just go by feel. I've bid what I thought was my max too many times and had the auction end a few dollars higher and been pissed. also if u bid like that in small increments the seller cant have another guy run the price up to your max bid
OP is just new to it all. Give anon a break.
It does look funny, but yeah, anyone who buys on GB has pretty much done this.
It's a way to find out the other bidders number if someone has "beaten" you to an item. If there were zero bids, I'd put in bid close to what I'm willing to pay. >be me >find gun on GB with 1 bid @ $5 >like gun, so place $250 bid >immediately outbid at $255 >increase my bid to $536 >winning for now @ $531 >really want gun so place another bid at $606 >never look back if I don't win
Basically how I bid. If I lose, I'm fine. If I win, I save up to $75 the price I was willing to pay.
pic related to an item I was bidding on at somewhat normal pricing, just followed it to see what would happen since it got to over $700 so quickly.
because if no one else bids, they get it for a lower price. are you new to concept of online auctioning?
If no one else bids, they get the same price, right now $400, whether their bid is 500 or 5000.
The reason I figure is they wanted to determine closely what I bid, and go only a little above it. So if I take the bait I'm back winning but paying more, while risking the lowest amount of fees if they have to 'sell' to themselves.
*the lowest amount of fees if I were to rebid but not enough to pass them because they made the jump too large
Was he bidding himself up? The times are out of order with the other bidder.
I bid 10/24, and this guy comes along and bids back to back to back until he's winning with the top listed.
I didn't crop the amounts, they just aren't shown.
What site is this? You can usually only make a bid that's above the other bidder. He's "winning" at that moment.
Gunbroker.
I bid $395, opening price is $50.
Therefore I'm winning at $50.
He comes along and bids something like $70.
I'm still winning but the price is $71
Then he bids $90
I'm winning but the price is $91
Repeat until he's winning at $396 (and my guess is his bid is say $420 or something)
Maybe, but the times are unevenly spaced. From the top, 9 seconds, 12 seconds, 11 seconds,
10, 10 11, 14, 13.
About the time it takes for a human to write in a new bid on the 'you're not winning page'
gunbroker is morony anon, frankly I think this is the only good answer
So you put in an auto-bid with a $395 limit?
I don't know ebays terms.
On gunbroker I put in the one bid on 10/24 which you can see.
He made 7 losing bids and one 8th bid to surpass me.
But that doesn't matter. If I bid 395 and he bids 420 or 490, he still pays $396. Unless someone else bids, who then surpass him relatively easily, because his bid is so close.
Some people don't have a particular value in mind, they're just looking for a steal, since a steal is a safe buy. (you can play with it and always have the option to sell it for what you paid for it if you don't like it)
So they're not looking to put in a "market value" bid.
There's no exact point where "steal" turns into "meh" turns into "I really paid market for this, didn't I?"
A person steal-hunting won't want their limited funds tied up in an autobid. If they bid $500, and $500 is a "meh" deal, they may lose out on two $250 steals while their $500 is tied up in a potential win that only frees back up once someone outbids them.
i could be wrong, but someone else could have been bidding and his auto-bid kept going. i believe gunbroker does not display the other person's bids, so it sorta just looks like he kept bidding on his own.
He's trying to beat your auto bid by the smallest amount possible, easily understandable.
cause he is a homosexual b***h
autobid discovery
To find your bid amount. I do this from time to time if I don't want to pay a lot. Sometimes I can psych myself into paying another $20 or 40 where I wouldn't have done so with 1 big bid.
That doesn't make any sense though, a single high bid would determine his bid amount just as easily. If you're willing to bid 400 or whatever then put in 400 the first time, there's no point in ratcheting up the bid bit by bit. The end result is the same.
>That doesn't make any sense though, a single high bid would determine his bid amount just as easily.
Yeah, and it would lock me into paying however much over your bid it was. Doing it incrementally by minimum-bid incriments gets me JUST into the lead with no more liability beyond.
>Yeah, and it would lock me into paying however much over your bid it was
No, it wouldn't.
Let's say an item is up and my hidden max bid is $400.
You could start bidding $10, $20, 30 and repeat that over and over again until you finally beat me at $410, or you ran out of budget.
Or you could just bid $400+ from the get-go and you'd find out my max bid the same way.
Suppose my max is $400 and you bid something silly high, like $5000. You're not paying that $5000 unless some other bidder comes along and bids it that high. If you and I are the only bidders it doesn't matter if you bid $410 or $4 million, you're still going to win at $410.
>Doing it incrementally by minimum-bid incriments gets me JUST into the lead with no more liability beyond.
What's the purpose of that? If you were willing to pay X amount then why not just start with that from the get-go? If you weren't willing to pay X amount then why bid it at all? This sounds like some autistic mindgame in your head that doesn't actually have any actual purpose.
Anon it's not hard. Check it out
Your bid is $400, I don't know that.
I bid $450, it stops at $405 because that was your high bid. Cool, I'm winning.
Someone else comes along and bids $440.
My auto-bid continues to bid for me, I'm at $445 now. You didn't place another bid, your interest was gone. But this guy now just forced me to pay an extra $40.
As opposed to:
Your bid is $400, I don't know that.
I start nibbling in $5 increments. Lose. Lose. Lose. Lose. You are winning at $401! I stop. If your interest is gone, the gun is mine at $401.
If someone else comes along who bids $440, I am NOT stuck paying more than your high bid.
It's a way to eke out the lowest possible bid you're comfortable with without committing to more liability if new interest comes to the item later. idk how to break it down more simply sorry.
>But this guy now just forced me to pay an extra $40.
If you weren't willing to pay that extra $40 then why would you bid that high? Is this some kind of game where you're trying to beat me personally, but you don't care if someone else wins?
wtf guys, seriously
I don't know what to tell you anon.
If it's worth $10 more to you, idk
are you trolling right now?
No, but I am autistic.
Maybe, just maybe, the other bidder, who is perhaps acquainted with the seller, is probing (you)r limit
>Maybe, just maybe, the other bidder, who is perhaps acquainted with the seller, is probing (you)r limit
We've covered that already. If the goal is to probe my limit a single higher bid achieves the same goal with much less work.
Nevermind the fact that probing my limit is pointless anyway.
Let's say a gun comes up. You want to bid on it. The most you're willing to pay is $550. Why does my bid matter at all? If I'm willing to offer more than $550 I win. If I'm willing to offer less than you are, you win. Whether or not you know what my offer is doesn't change that fundamental fact.
Its a simple optimization approach if they don't necessarily want this exact gun, and want to minimize the cost. If they did as you propose, they'll probably get that exact gun - but chances are there are identical models they could have got at lower prices the following week.
Of course if he bets 1.000 instantly it might be less work to out-bid you but, under the assumption he wants to squeeze the optimal amount out of another potential bidder,
1) he doesn’t know your limit beforehand and starts probing, as well as
2) he doesn’t want to scare you away should your limit been reached and even some of your hypothetical bid re-raises are lower than, let’s say an hefty amount of 1.000 for this one.
Those increments might be an indication that the other person is either not 100% committed to buy, or is just probing for bumping the price up for the sellers‘ party. Also, the bidding history gives an info about exactly how many other interested parties have put in a bid limit at that point, which would lead, in this example, to a high probability that you might be the most motivated prospect.
OP here, so I should just try bidding $10 more and hope he doesn't come back.
>imagine being this poor
It's not about the money, it's about the message
A lot of people just honestly don't understand how gunbroker's auto-bid system works and they prefer to bid manually. The other one that really confuses people is gunbroker's 15 minute rule. People still try to "snipe" like ebay by bidding at the last second but the 15 min rule makes that pointless.
I remember bidding on a lot of AK mags where some homosexual kept doing that and I finally just gave up at 140 bucks
they do that because your average gunbroker user is moronic.
I get into bidding wars on random things I have no intention of buying.
how do you avoid getting stuck with it?
Personally, because someone started a homosexual bidding war or just has no idea what something is worth and I'm trying to match 100% of their autobid and then outbid them by as little as possible, therefore parting them from as much of their money as possible. Those bid amounts would basically be like Price is Right bids, and I'm counting on their monkey brain going "oh, my max bid was $3,000, I only need to go to $3050 to win" rather than remembering that the high bid was at like $2100 five minutes ago.
Haven't gotten burned yet!
did you 'borrow' someone's driver's license to make a second gb account?
do you make half your real purchases on the second account to get feedback so it doesn't look like a shill.
>did you 'borrow' someone's driver's license to make a second gb account?
I imagine I would have to if it ever backfired, which it hasn't
i do that. i dont know the max price i'm willing to pay and just go by feel. I've bid what I thought was my max too many times and had the auction end a few dollars higher and been pissed. also if u bid like that in small increments the seller cant have another guy run the price up to your max bid
We all do this, OP is rarted
OP is just new to it all. Give anon a break.
It does look funny, but yeah, anyone who buys on GB has pretty much done this.
It's a way to find out the other bidders number if someone has "beaten" you to an item. If there were zero bids, I'd put in bid close to what I'm willing to pay.
>be me
>find gun on GB with 1 bid @ $5
>like gun, so place $250 bid
>immediately outbid at $255
>increase my bid to $536
>winning for now @ $531
>really want gun so place another bid at $606
>never look back if I don't win
Basically how I bid. If I lose, I'm fine. If I win, I save up to $75 the price I was willing to pay.
pic related to an item I was bidding on at somewhat normal pricing, just followed it to see what would happen since it got to over $700 so quickly.
I do this
Why is OP an gaygat?