Washing machine it's not getting water

Brand: LG
Model: WDM1196ADP
Manual:
https://servicemanuals.us/lg/washing-machine/wdm1196adp-wdm1196tdp.html

I have no idea what's wrong with this thing so I hope you guys can help me. I keep getting over and the error message "IE" that it means that the washing machine it's not getting water. I already did all this:
>YES, I HAVE WATER IN MY HOUSE. And the tap that uses my washing machine is working fine.
>Clean Both Drain Hose and inlet Water hose(hot and cold water) are good. They are not clogged or split.
>Clean both the Drain Pump Filter and Drain Plug.
>Clean the little blue plastic filter from the cold inlet Water hose attached in the washing machine.

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  1. 1 year ago
    Anonymous

    learn to squat with your feet flat on the ground

    • 1 year ago
      Anonymous

      pic from internet

      Im going to go out on a limb and assume the little valve thing that opens to let water in is broken in the washer.

      You mean the thing that appears on the minute 6:26

      • 1 year ago
        Anonymous

        Yes. But you should see if there is a different code specific to that problem.

        Before going out and buying parts, also check the filters in your connections for hard water/clogs.

        • 1 year ago
          Anonymous

          >check the filters in your connections for hard water/clogs.
          both filters are clean.

          >buying Korean appliances or cars
          You get what you deserve

          Do you realize that eveyrthing is made in china? do you?

          • 1 year ago
            Anonymous

            My household appliances were made in America. My car was made in Japan. Try again dumbass

          • 1 year ago
            Anonymous

            Okay so, if I were in your shoes, I would disconnect the connections to the two valves, make sure they arent shorting on anything, and then try to run the machine. Id do one at a time (hot and cold) then both, and see if it throws the same error code. If yes, id buy a replacement servo or valve or wtv the parts are.

            • 1 year ago
              Anonymous

              OP here.
              Alright guys I opened up the cover of my washing machine, I turn it on and noticed a buzz, like a high tension fence, at it seems come from the hose were goes the cold water. So that means that shit doesn't works anymore?

              Ok i try that and still witout pour water.

              • 1 year ago
                Anonymous

                >WDM1196ADP

                This thread reminds me of the line where Arthur is in the bath and the butler asks "Do you need me to come in there and wash your dick for you."

              • 1 year ago
                Anonymous

                that buzz is the cold water valve solenoid (that blue thing). mine sounds like that when i forget to turn on the water.

                so, you're probably not getting water.

                b.t.w. the instructions say to turn the taps off when washer not in use. if those solenoids get stuck "open" if will flood your house. or if the hose bursts. stuck solenoid is what happened to a friend of mine (but it was a dishwasher).

                also, you're suposed to replace the hoses every 5 years.

              • 1 year ago
                Anonymous

                >also, you're suposed to replace the hoses every 5 years.
                Washing machine hose lobby strikes again!

              • 1 year ago
                Anonymous

                > hose lobbyist

                pipe down, or we'll make you change it every 2 years or no flod insurance payouts.

                our friends, the battery lobby, is working on rechargable washing machines. They are skipping ahead and making the batteries non-replacable though, so you can just chuck the whole machine in the landfill.

              • 1 year ago
                Anonymous

                If you need to wash stuff badly, you can probably just pause it, dump some water in there thru the front door, with some soap, and let it continue.

                My washer looks similar, and i can do that without problem. it just senses when there is water. run each cycle i.e. rinse separately.

  2. 1 year ago
    Anonymous

    Im going to go out on a limb and assume the little valve thing that opens to let water in is broken in the washer.

  3. 1 year ago
    Anonymous

    >buying Korean appliances or cars
    You get what you deserve

  4. 1 year ago
    Anonymous

    check the water pipe is connected. and that the tap is on, turn on tap while pipe is off and see if water comes out. if it still doesn't fill the water solenoid valve is broken or not connected or the relay driving it is broken or not connected or the brains controling THAT is fricked.

    • 1 year ago
      Anonymous

      >Or thr brains connecting...

      Not op but yeah this is always my fear with modern appliances, a $10 repair becomes $300 because you cant buy their circuit board for the peanuts its actually worth. Im keeping my old washer and dryer alive as long as possible, just did a bearing and belt swap.

    • 1 year ago
      Anonymous

      >solenoid valve is broken or not connected
      It's connected. How I can know if this thing is broken or not? Can I fix it or it must be remplased?

      >or the relay driving it is broken or not connected or the brains controling THAT is fricked.
      I don't think so, otherwise the machine will not turn on in the first place.

  5. 1 year ago
    Anonymous

    If you have an aquastop, check if it's clogged. If it's electric (mechanical do also exist) try to measure the voltage and do a bucket test with the disconnected hose and a test setup with switchable mains. This also applies for the solenoids. Typically these runs on mains voltage but look on the label. However it might be a pain in the ass to get this out of the machine but you can at least test it better and check whether it is actually moving inside. Correct tools, stuff to test it and CAUTION highly recommended.

    • 1 year ago
      Anonymous

      I have an electrical multimeter(that i have no idea how to use. It was a gift). Exactly how I can check the solenoids using the multimeter? I been watching a lot youtube videos and seems like there's a chance that my issue is caused by any of these 3 items:
      >cold water solenoid(3 way)
      >hot water solenoid(1 way
      >water level switch
      So I would like use my electrical multimeter in order now which of these 3 items is dead in order only buy a new piece of said dead item.

      If you need to wash stuff badly, you can probably just pause it, dump some water in there thru the front door, with some soap, and let it continue.

      My washer looks similar, and i can do that without problem. it just senses when there is water. run each cycle i.e. rinse separately.

      >If you need to wash stuff badly, you can probably just pause it, dump some water in there thru the front door, with some soap, and let it continue.
      Washing machine automatically stops workings after like 3 minutes, and start beeping the "IE" error.

      Run a drain cycle and see if that clears it.

      I tried and still without working.

      that buzz is the cold water valve solenoid (that blue thing). mine sounds like that when i forget to turn on the water.

      so, you're probably not getting water.

      b.t.w. the instructions say to turn the taps off when washer not in use. if those solenoids get stuck "open" if will flood your house. or if the hose bursts. stuck solenoid is what happened to a friend of mine (but it was a dishwasher).

      also, you're suposed to replace the hoses every 5 years.

      >that buzz is the cold water valve solenoid (that blue thing). mine sounds like that when i forget to turn on the water.
      >so, you're probably not getting water.
      Please read what I wrote on OP post:
      >YES, I HAVE WATER IN MY HOUSE. And the tap that uses my washing machine is working fine. IT WAS WATER

      >stuck solenoid is what happened to a friend of mine (but it was a dishwasher).
      how he did unstuck the solenoids?

      >b.t.w. the instructions say to turn the taps off when washer not in use. if those solenoids get stuck "open"
      After use the washine machine I always unplug it and close the tap water.

      >also, you're suposed to replace the hoses every 5 years.
      both cold and hot water hose are fine.

  6. 1 year ago
    Anonymous

    Run a drain cycle and see if that clears it.

  7. 1 year ago
    Anonymous

    OP HERE
    Alright guys, after play for a while with the digital multimeter I got these digits using the 'continuty' option(the symbol that looks like a wifi symbol):

    >hot water solenoid(1 way)= 1171
    >cold water solenoid(3 ways)=
    BLUE= 1171
    GREY= 1184
    RED= 1172
    >water level switch(has 3 metals pins to plug)= 25(when I put the Needle Pointer on the exterior pins; 1 when I put one Needle Pointer in the middle and the other one on any of the exterior pins)

    So all the water solenoids are ok?
    Are normal these low digits on the water level switch?

    • 1 year ago
      Anonymous

      that's the symbol for "makes a sound" continuity test, not wifi.
      100 mA for that solenoid sounds reasonable.

      that high tension sound was the solenoid being supplied with ac, so electrically it seems to be working.

      i don't know how the water level switch works... the float may have a magnet or iron in it that changes the oscillation of the tank circuit and the mcu in the washer detects the frequency to determine the level. i.e. insanely complicated.

      it sounds like the cold water sensor is clogged somewhere. on mine i can pour more water into the soap container when i hear the soleniod want more water (if not i get the IE error).

      it uses the water level sensor to determine if the water is coming in.

      sadly, even the sanitary hot water cycle still uses cold, and with all this bullshit paternalistic software it's hard to tell it to just go.

      • 1 year ago
        Anonymous

        >i don't know how the water level switch works... the float may have a magnet or iron in it that changes the oscillation of the tank circuit and the mcu in the washer detects the frequency to determine the level. i.e. insanely complicated.

        I tried this:

        And that thing seems work fine: when i blow and suck i can hear the click of the rubber membrane.

    • 1 year ago
      Anonymous

      If you adjust the temp will it not fill for both cold and hot settings?
      My first thought was solonoid but I don't think they would both go at once.

      • 1 year ago
        Anonymous

        exactly, even on exta hot it always shoots some cold water in there and tries to "sense" if it's there.

        i was thinking if you could just use 100% hot it might work because you're right, both lines and 'noids would probably not fail at the same time

        • 1 year ago
          Anonymous

          waitaminute... i just looked at the original post pic again. your washer has been hacked!... the drain port for the cleanout is going somewhere! it's supposed to be pluged. if it's not plugged then the water will leave through that port and it won't be happy.

          • 1 year ago
            Anonymous

            Op here. That photo is showing the above/upper part of the washing machine.

            • 1 year ago
              Anonymous

              > showing the above/upper part of the washing machine

              I mean this black tube. This tube is supposed to have a plug on it, stuffed inside the machine with the little white door closed. A lot of water is stored down there, below the drum where you can't see it.

              It looks like the tube is connected to a white drain connector or something.

              if that black tube drains, when the water comes in, it will immediately leave, and the water sensor won't see the water rising inside and issue an error.

      • 1 year ago
        Anonymous

        exactly, even on exta hot it always shoots some cold water in there and tries to "sense" if it's there.

        i was thinking if you could just use 100% hot it might work because you're right, both lines and 'noids would probably not fail at the same time

        >If you adjust the temp will it not fill for both cold and hot settings?
        I don't have hot water in my house. I have never used the hot feature on my washing machine. I always wash my clothing using the 30 minutes quick option= wash and centrifugate, so the final load is a bit wet, ready to hang up the clothing.

        oh, and one more thing... did it drain? if there is still water in it, then the drain pump is the likely problem. I've replaced my drain pump 5 times now, it's a well-known problem.

        is say this because the drain pump also makes a high tension like noise, and sometimes it just vibrates and can't start because it's a single coil cheap-ass shaded pole motor or something.

        there is a cleanout port on the left bottom after you drain it, sometimes hair or whatever gets caught in the trap and interferes with the motor.

        >oh, and one more thing... did it drain?
        As far i know yes. Even seems like Im getting water from some how. The very frist day I began to try to fish the thing, first I drained any bad water from the Drain Pump Filter and Drain Plug(it was black water and a bit stinky(remember, on this point my washing machine it's not getting any water anymore) and today, after 24 hours later of try over and over a lot things to try to fix my washing machine, today after check water level switch I decide clean the Drain Plug and magically I got water from that place. Fricking how? During these last 24 hours the fricking drum has been dry as a bone(AND YES I HAD MY TAP WATER OPENED DURING ALL THE TIME TRYING TO FIX THIS SHIT)

    • 1 year ago
      Anonymous

      oh, and one more thing... did it drain? if there is still water in it, then the drain pump is the likely problem. I've replaced my drain pump 5 times now, it's a well-known problem.

      is say this because the drain pump also makes a high tension like noise, and sometimes it just vibrates and can't start because it's a single coil cheap-ass shaded pole motor or something.

      there is a cleanout port on the left bottom after you drain it, sometimes hair or whatever gets caught in the trap and interferes with the motor.

    • 1 year ago
      Anonymous

      What you have measured is the resistance of the solenoid coils (in continuity mode it beeps and show the resistance on most multimeters). However continuity should be only tested while powered off. Anyway it is a good sign if all solenoids got the same resistance. Coils should working. For the next step you would test the voltage to make sure the relay switch on the control board is working. I know you hear a buzzing but it's better to know which solenoid is emitting it. To test it you would need to power on the machine and run a program, obviously. Make sure to not get electrocuted... I guess any of the three-way solenoids (the first or second from the left (blue/white) on the picture) should get a voltage of ~110V (if you are living in the US). Since you've got resistance on the coils and receiving voltage, the left error source is a limescale problem in the solenoid and can be simply resolved by dissambling and cleaning it... or buying a new one if you want it. In the end, if you are unsure about measuring the three-way-solenoids, you can just skip this step and clean it (doesn't hurt anyway if your machine is old / often used)

      Alternating voltage measurement with a mulitmeter:

      Solenoid animation:

      Solenoid resistance measurement:

      Solenoid maintenance:

      (shitty quality)

  8. 1 year ago
    Anonymous

    As long as you aren't moronic I would suggest unplugging the solenoids and putting the proper voltage on them to see if they operate. Or if you can get the machine to do it then disconnect the hose past the solenoid to see if it let's water out. If it passes water then that must all be ok.
    The other thing it probably has is some kind of pressure sensor to check the solenoid is open and water is getting through, maybe that part is fricked. Or of course the controller.

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