Tri-Clamp Float Valve?

Is there a way to maintain water level with tri-clamp fittings, or do I really have to cut a separate hole just for a float?

  1. 4 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Tell us more details on what you are trying to achieve? Can't you adapt a float valve to a tri-clamp fitting and then just clamp that onto your existing fitting?

    • 4 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      I'm trying to use a 50gal tri-clamp kettle as a boiler, (plugged up to a garden hose) but it only has external tri-clamp fittings. It can't run dry so it needs a float or some method to keep the heating elements covered. They do make internal tri-clamp float valves like this (pic rel, and ti's actually reasonably priced at $60), but I don't know how I'd attach it without welding a dedicated tri-clamp port inside the kettle, which I don't want to do. I imagine there's got to be a specialized part that turns an external tri-clamp into an internal one (by running through the port and providing a fitting on the other side that you could then mount onto) but I can't find it.

      • 3 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        What kinds of fittings are there internally? If nothing you may be able to use a low pressure check valve as a dummy release method. What dimensions are the 50-gal tank, and what liquids will be used in it?
        >P=rgh, where r is density of the liquids, g is gravity, and h is the height of the tank.
        That'll help you pick out an appropriate pressure valve, if you want to go this route.

      • 3 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        >I imagine there's got to be a specialized part that turns an external tri-clamp into an internal one (by running through the port and providing a fitting on the other side that you could then mount onto) but I can't find it.
        You might be able to find a sparge fitting in the right size, but this sort of fitting is often custom made for a particular application. Since this is a non-sanitary non-pressurized application, you don't need the tight-tolerance hole in the triclamp cap, and can just butt the internal and external fittings against a cap with a drilled hole. TIG welded with purge or flux.

        • 3 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          >TIG welded with purge or flux
          i really don't want to weld because i don't want to diminish the value of my kettle system. since making the thread i realized the BTUs I could achieve were only like a 25% of what I'd need, so at this point I've pivoted to just looking at commercial boilers or a set of 7-9kw sauna steamers that I'd just treat as disposable.

          • 3 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            The welding in that situation is of triclamp fittings being welded to a triclamp cap to make a custom fitting that will hold the float valve. No modifications to the kettle.

            • 3 weeks ago
              Anonymous

              Ah, ok, sorry I wish I wasn't hammered atm. At any rate, this was going to be a short term stopgap that was going to be replaced by a higher BTU specialized unit, so I could free my kettle up for homebrewing at my friends place. Due to the insufficient BTU output I've basically decided to scrap this idea.

              I was going to try it do process materials cheaply and build a small efficient box that I could efficiently load and steam sterilize, but today I found a walk-in fridge (6x8x8) for $500, so I'd rather just find a boiler to match it. And we're apparently gonna be getting 1.5 tons of stuff a week 212F for 12 hours within 24 hours, so 2x 240v 25A elements just wasn't gonna cut the mustard anyway.

          • 3 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            >i really don't want to weld because i don't want to diminish the value of my kettle system.

            Why would a (properly executed) weld do any such thing?

            • 3 weeks ago
              Anonymous

              Because the potential buyer would not know that it had been properly executed.

  2. 4 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    This might be retarded, but could i use just a gravity system? like a seperate resevoir filled to the waterlien i want my kettle with a float valve and stuff, then siphon style tubing in my kettle? so that when it runs below the desired line, it draws from the resevoir, then the resevoir tops itself off?

  3. 4 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    i just don't wanna fuck up my kettle for a temporary project.

    • 4 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      but basically this is my goal. keep my kettle water level constant while not fucking it up by adding a dedicated, non-tri-clamp port just for a float. maybe i'll just use a 50gal drum instead.

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      Then use a plug or blanked fitting in the new hole after you no longer need the float. As with your mum every hole is a feature.

  4. 4 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    sit the kettle on top of your hose, as the water boils off the reduced weight of the kettle will allow water through the hose to fill it back up. as it gets heavier it will squash the hose closed

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      creative and elegant but risky.

      What size tri clamp? Is there room to slip/sleeve another fitting through the existing port? Does it need to be easily disassembled for cleaning often?

      What are you doing water bath canning or something?

      >size
      1.5"
      >sleeve another fitting through the port
      that's the kind of fitting I was looking for, couldn't find one though. ideally yeah it can be disassembled easily, but most tri-clamp fitting are by nature.
      >what are you trying to do
      I'm trying to steam mushroom substrate, I already have a 55gal 1500w steamer but now need a 10-50kw steamer so I'm trying to figure things out. the kettle will just be used as a stop gap since it has 2x6kw elements already. i'd rather use my kettle than modify my stainless steel drums. i intend to just buy a boiler at this point, and so i want to sell my drums off (so I don't want to mod them so they go for full value).

      What kinds of fittings are there internally? If nothing you may be able to use a low pressure check valve as a dummy release method. What dimensions are the 50-gal tank, and what liquids will be used in it?
      >P=rgh, where r is density of the liquids, g is gravity, and h is the height of the tank.
      That'll help you pick out an appropriate pressure valve, if you want to go this route.

      there are no internal fittings, just 1.5" holes where the tri-clamp ports are. i'll use water in it, and it's roughly standard dimensions for a 50gal kettle, I'll post them later.

      https://i.imgur.com/RmHCZeQ.png

      Put a tee on the outside, and a pipe of the appropriate length going upward alongside the kettle. Just let it flow out overhead. Make sure to use another tee at the top of the overflow so that you don't accidentally create a siphon.

      this is what i started to think, something like this seems easy enough. if i made the water resevoir large enough (like an HDX tote or something), I could just add a float to it too. right? im leaning towards this because it's basically free and easy. i don't want to look like an inelegant slob letting water overflow everywhere though, so i'd prefer the float valve thing which requires a larger container.

  5. 4 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    What size tri clamp? Is there room to slip/sleeve another fitting through the existing port? Does it need to be easily disassembled for cleaning often?

    What are you doing water bath canning or something?

  6. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Put a tee on the outside, and a pipe of the appropriate length going upward alongside the kettle. Just let it flow out overhead. Make sure to use another tee at the top of the overflow so that you don't accidentally create a siphon.

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      so this is kinda what im thinking right now, this will work right?

      • 3 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        I don't know what the secondary tank and float valve add to this, you really can just hook up a hose barb with a silicone or plastic tube draining to a sink/drain/waste bucket.

        • 3 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          i don't want to be draining all over the place, this thing will be running indoors and remaining sanitary is essential. but maybe im misunderstanding your idea.

          my idea will work though right? like it's physically sound?

          • 3 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            It's positive pressure from the kettle, and if you're that worried, just use sanitary tubing going to a sanitized bucket. Vent at top can be covered with some form of filter or swan neck or something if you really need it.

  7. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    triclamp bulkhead https://www.amazon.com/Weldless-Triclamp-Bulkhead-Compression-Stainless/dp/B082RPHLYR

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      the problem is that i don't have an internal fitting to mount a tri-clamp float, or any tri clamp object for that matter. all my fittings are exterior, and im reluctant to modify my kettle since it has resale value as a stock unmodified unit

  8. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Whats your size. Id drill a hole in a cap for your inlet size and weld in the next size down. I've done it for CIP tanks before. They have CIP Spray ball attachments you can order from VNE that do the same thing but I don't know where to get that online.

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      I'm an idiot. 1.5" Ferrule wont fit through 2" tube. works if you have a 3" inlet or if you go NPT for the inside of the tank.

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